The Zooming Goose

An Indy Icon adapts

Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Adam Gibson

As the pandemic approaches its first anniversary, restaurants and retailers have found themselves forced to respond to a new and hitherto unique set of challenges. Some have prospered under the lockdown and its various iterations, others have not. Long a favorite of ours at SL Indy, we are happy to report that Goose the Market, a unique Indianapolis establishment, appears to be weathering the storm in its own unique and inimitable way that incorporates oysters, smoked meats, and, of course, the ubiquitous Zoom.

For well over a decade, Goose the Market (located just north of the downtown Indianapolis area at 25th and Delaware Streets) has built a reputation on the Indy food scene both as a retailer and, through the Smoking Goose and Public Smokehouse, purveyors of the highest quality cured meats to many of the area’s better restaurants. Founded by husband and wife Chris and Mollie Eley, what started in concept as an upscale neighborhood market has become a household name amongst those who appreciate the finer things in life, with smoked meats, sausages and terrines now available at select locations as far afield as Chicago and New York. In Cincinnati, Smoking Goose products can be found at Jungle Jim’s, Skeleton Root, Share Cheesebar and Dutch’s Larder.

Mollie Eley leads a Zoom charcuterie class.

Also boasting a charming wine bar, called The Enoteca, with a constantly changing selection of unusual bottlings served up with cheese boards and the now famous housemade charcuterie, Goose has become a destination for gourmets seeking a one-of-a-kind gastronomic experience. Key to its success both inside and outside of the Indianapolis market has been the exceptional quality of the products. “We use the whole animal, not just the prime cuts like steaks or chops,” explains Chris Eley. “Our house recipes start with what comes in from the farms.” Favorites include the Pig and Fig terrine and the Delaware Fireball, a uniquely savory and spicy hand-wrapped sausage that has become a standard bearer for the brand. Unlike larger, more commercial producers, ingredients are strictly locally sourced, with seasonal items and special offerings often selling out fast to a small army of Goose aficionados.

In addition to the fabulous products themselves, customers could also, at least until last year, attend classes at the Smoking Goose on the subjects of whole hog butchering and salumi making. At The Enoteca, with its weathered communal tables and amply stocked wine cellar, guests could spend a relaxing evening learning about food and wine pairing or how to recreate one of Goose the Market’s famous charcuterie and cheese boards. “These were edible, drinkable “tours” of destinations all over the world, and included oyster shucking, beer and cheese pairing, and more,” explains Smoking Goose’s “narration director” Corrie Cook. “Of course, the food and drink got the spotlight, but part of the charm for staff and guests was experiencing strangers rubbing elbows together around those communal tables.” That was until Covid-19 struck. “And then, beginning in March, we couldn’t be in company together,” she continues. “The spark of those Enoteca classes and events was extinguished just like that.”

Owners Mollie and Chris Eley

Reinventing Goose’s services during these challenging times entailed, as it did for so many restaurants and retailers, striving to create a tailored experience online in order to keep clients engaged. With so much of their business based upon personal interactions, the staff worked to incorporate the unique Goose spirit into takeaway bags and delivery boxes. Parlaying in-person classes into a digital format presented an altogether different challenge, however. In the fall, Goose shared its first Zoom oyster shucking class registration on social media, including a brilliant twist - each participant would have a package to pick up: oysters, oyster knife, oyster glove, sparkling wine, as well as a Zoom invitation to their inbox. Eager to try something new and exciting during the lockdown, Goose’s guests flocked to attend, and more sell-out dates quickly followed.

“While this time has definitely been challenging for all small businesses, I think we have been able to offer some fun things that we would have never done otherwise,” says Mollie Eley. “I’d never even heard of Zoom in February 2020. We’ve been pleasantly surprised by the great response from guests.” One of the most popular Zoom classes has been Mollie’s charcuterie board master class. Taking participants through the selection of appropriate ingredients to plating their own grand charcuterie board, the class is allinclusive. Featuring various cured meats, cheeses, sides, and crackers, as well as paired wine and the board itself, a hand-made wooden platter by Indy Urban Hardwood that is yours to keep, the class has been a huge hit. And what makes a great charcuterie board? “You need a variety of textures, colors, milks and meats,” she explains. “A good place to start is to do three meats, three cheeses and three accompaniments. I always think odd numbers look best on boards. Also, don’t forget a couple of sweet items - Frittle or Just Pop In popcorn are my favorites.”

“People seem to really enjoy having all of their supplies for the classes - food, wine and tools,” she continues. “And we send out the class recording so they can watch it again or tune in later.” Classes are also offered as private Zoom events - perfect for extended families, book clubs, or as customer appreciation events. Participants pick up their class “kit” at Goose, (the kits can be shipped to those who live outside the Indianapolis area) then are emailed a Zoom link. During the class, guests interact with the teacher and each other and are able to ask questions, show their progress and converse just like they would in a communal setting. “It’s the best of both worlds,” adds Mollie. “Socially distant and safe, but together and fun!”

For a list of upcoming classes, suggested wine pairings, and how to participate, readers are advised to visit Goose’s website - reservations are, of course, required. And don’t forget that as this arrives in your mailbox, there is an “R” in the month (the old adage being that you should only eat oysters when there is a letter “R” in the month, because those are the coldest months of the year), so we strongly recommend the oyster-shucking class for an engaging evening of bivalves and Champagne. No matter which class you choose, you’re guaranteed a diverting time, some much-needed social interaction, and maybe even a few new kitchen tools, not to mention skills that you can readily put to use when we are all entertaining again. sl

For Zoom class information and to register, visit smokinggoose.com