6 minute read
AL-Posto
Restaurateurs Austin Heidt and Giovanni Ranieri combine their philosophy on food, family, and experience to create a lively Southern Italian dining ‘spot.’
Written by Matthew Millett / Photographed by Andrew Kung
When experienced sommelier and front-of-house restauranteur Austin Heidt wanted to re-imagine an approachable dining experience in Hyde Park Square, he considered his knowledge and love for Italian wine and cuisine. Austin knew of the passion first-generation Italian Giovanni Ranieri had for food, and with a background in hospitality, the two paired up to create Al-Posto.
Al-Posto translated means ‘at the spot’. In this case, the “spot” is behind the 12’ tall “Italian Blue” door on the north side of Hyde Park Square in the old Teller’s and Dear restaurant locations. Touches of the same blue as the front door appears on most of the chair cushions, with green banquets on the right side of the open two-story dining space decorated with a large modern wallcovering. On the left is a large glass wine cellar and a long bar with seating for ten. At the end of the dining area is the original vault door from the bank that decades ago had its home there. Today, the vault offers intimate dining for small-to-medium-sized parties. An upstairs mezzanine offers similarly outfitted dining areas and an oversized patio and rooftop bar.
The lively and active bar offers house specialty cocktails and select wines on tap. Italian influence permeates the cocktail menu, including classics like the Negroni and Aperol Spritz. It is also infused within the Al-Posto Margarita, made with Tequila and Orangecello, and the Sicilian Martini, which utilizes an oversized caper berry to add a touch of saltiness. Don’t miss the Espresso Martini, made with local Deeper Roots coffee and both Baileys and Kahlua. As noted on the menu, Austin Heidt also does a great job of suggesting unique wines to pair with various dinner plates.
Traditional Apulian Italian (“heel of the boot”) recipes, handed down to Giovanni from his family, heavily influence the dinner menu. Looking closely at the menu, you will notice subtle references to family members, such as the Gnocchi Alla ‘Marcella,’ ‘Mama Flora’s’ Spaghetti and Meatballs, and the ‘Bob Approved’ Cheeseburger Americano. Executive Chef Evan Hartman reconceived these family gems and selections to make them unique to the restaurant.
After studying at the Cincinnati State Culinary Institute, Evan worked for six years as Executive Chef at Pleasantry. Evan’s collaboration with Giovanni and his ancestors via their recipes results in a fresh and inspired menu of classic Puglian dishes.
The antipasti and insalata dishes consist of classics like arancini, panzanella, focaccia with pomodoro, and funghi fritti. However, the star is the house-made burrata. A few dollops of sweet strawberry mostarda atop the burrata enhance the sweet coolness of fresh bursts of mint. The burrata comes with fresh grilled focaccia made with a sourdough base and finished in butter and olive oil.
All of the ‘Primi’ pasta noodles are made fresh in-house, and the dishes again offer classic Italian staples such as Cacio e Pepe, eggplant Parmigiana, gnocchi in a vodka sauce, and spaghetti and meatballs. Chef Evan, however, adds unique touches to elevate the flavors in these dishes. For instance, the meatballs in Mama Flora’s Spaghetti and Meatballs are boiled in the sauce and have a gamier flavor courtesy of fennel and Duroc Pork. The Gnocchi Alla Marcella, prepared in a vodka sauce, presents a slight touch of heat melded with sweet pea. Orecchiette, considered the signature pasta of Apulian cuisine, is a light and flavorful dish with a light Lacinato kale and lemon flavor paired with fennel sausage. The star of the Primi dishes, though, is the Spaghetti Allo Scoglio. A medley of classic Italian seafood is cooked in a garlic white wine sauce and topped with crunchy breadcrumbs. Using bottarga, garlic, and bread crumbs leaves a savory, ‘scrape the plate’ worthy topper.
The Pesce options such as grilled branzino in a caper and parsley gremolata; dry-aged salmon paired with fregola (classic Southern Italian pasta), fennel, and radish in a white wine balsamic vinaigrette; and garlic shrimp Diavolo with oregano, garlic, and chili, highlights classic Apulian and Southern Italian cuisine.
However, the swordfish Alla Ghiotta is an umami bomb of flavor and one of the menu’s high notes. Dried fish, anchovy, olives, capers, Calabrian chili, and pine nuts are all cooked and reduced together and then melded with tomatoes and further reduced to create a spicy, peppery, herbal umami of flavor, topping the thick swordfish filet. Extra focaccia can come in handy to sop up any remaining Ghiotta sauce.
Carne entrees focus on the Pollo, Bistecca Alla Fiorentina, and Pugliese Braciole Steak. The Pollo is similar to a piccata preparation, focused on a lemon caper butter sauce and topped with fresh Parmigiano Reggiano. The Bistecca is a classic, and true to its Florentine heritage, utilizes a 28oz porterhouse cut of beef that is well buttered and herbed. Finally, the Pugliese Braciole uses skirt steak rolled with prosciutto, herbs, and breadcrumbs. The steak is then cooked in a ragu meat sauce, resulting in a fall-apart, melt-in-your-mouth entree.
Executive pastry chef Kayla Hunley puts together all of the in-house Deserts. Tiramisu, cannoli, panna cotta, and house-made ice cream café affogato (hot espresso over ice cream) are staples. However, each comes in traditional and seasonal ways, such as a blood orange tiramisu or pistachio-filled cannoli. In addition, a large selection of amaro digestifs is available as an after-dinner drink, including Nonino, Averna, and Braulio Amaro, offering different levels of bitter and herbaceousness.
The philosophy for Al-Posto is simply good cuisine, good wine and spirits, and an exceptional dining experience within a friendly, lively atmosphere. We hope to see you at ‘The Spot.’
Al-Posto is located at 2710 Erie Ave, in Hyde Park Square 45208. 513.321.2710. al-posto.com. Open Tuesday through Saturday.