Near and Dear

A pair of industry leaders join forces to provide an elevated dining experience at Dear Restaurant and Butchery

Written by Matthew Millett / Photography by Andrew Kung

Austin Heidt, sommelier and owner of Dear Restaurant and Butchery, developed a passion for wine based on family experiences as a youth. “I always associated wine with family and special occasions, like being around the dinner table with friends,” he explained. Heidt’s ember of interest in the ‘art of the sommelier’ grew into a flame during a stint at Pigall’s early in his career. “The sommelier was that added layer of hospitality that I felt rounded out the restaurant experience,” he said. Fanning the flames as a student at the Culinary Institute of America at The Greystone Academy in Saint Helena Napa, California, Heidt’s passion and understanding of wine and hospitality was further solidified. He worked as an assistant winemaker at the Notre Vin winery in the Chalk Hill area of Sonoma, California, and rounded out his knowledge base by participating in seven harvests across five different countries. A certified wine educator, Heidt has passed two out of three tests for the Master of Sommelier through the Court of Master Sommeliers and is in year one of the Master of Wine program. This wealth of experience translates into an elevated guest experience at Dear Restaurant and Butchery.

Dear Charcuterie: Bacon wrapped country pâté, bologna, bresaola, and assorted accoutremont

Taking a different path to Dear Restaurant and Butchery, Brian Young started working as a food runner at the age of 16 in Nashville, Tennessee. He said he quickly “noticed all the fun happening in the kitchen” and made his way there. While working at B.B. King Blues Club, Brian was encouraged by his father to take his talents to the next level with formal instruction that would allow him to move into the fine dining sphere. Brian selected the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont. From there, he spent one and a half years in Big Sur, California at the ‘high-intensity fine dining’ establishment Post Ranch Inn, before hopping to the opposite coast at Harvest in Boston, and then co-chef at Townsman. He was asked to apply for the Bravo series Top Chef and was a contestant on season 16 that was filmed in Louisville in 2018. Armed with a Michelincaliper background, Young was ready for yet another move. He felt that Cincinnati was ‘ready and ripe’ for a new culinary experience.

Eggleston Farm Cornish Rock Chicken Cushion: Stuffed with truffled chicken & tarragon sausage, served with cassoulet.

The relationship between Austin and Brian solidified when the Hyde Park space previously occupied by long-time tenant Teller’s became available. Both Austin and Brian were eager to create a restaurant with approachable wines, sharable dishes, and an atmosphere of neighborhood comfort. The butcher aspect was the icing on the cake, as Brian says he was eager to “pass on the tribal language of the butcher.” You will find shareable conversational dishes created with seasonal ingredients and expertly paired with wines and libations to compliment.

Front market offers take home selections, choice beef, sandwiches, and specialty coffee daily

The Eggleston Farm Cornish Rock Chicken Cushion is a classic rustic French-inspired dish. Utilizing both white and dark meat, the truffle salt and tarragon sausage create a herbaceous and succulent dish courtesy of sundried tomatoes and freshness from herbs. It is a perfect dish for fall and for sharing with family, Dear Restaurant and Butcher’s philosophy.

Chef Brian works in tandem with sous chef Jack Halfin to create dishes that pay homage to their respective backgrounds. For instance, the Pappardelle Vongole is a tongue-in-cheek play on the history of pasta, as its roots stem from Chinese cuisine. As Vongole is a classic Italian spaghetti dish with clams, Brian and Jack’s twist introduces a rich chili XO sauce, ginger, and garlic, resulting in an oceanic umami bomb of savory, rich flavor.

Fried Chicken Mushroom to Share: Chili lime salt, dried sawtooth coriander, bread & butter cauliflower, chili crunch, lime kewpie.

The Fried ‘Chicken’ Mushrooms is another chef collaboration. A combination of hen of the wood and oyster mushrooms are coated in house-made buttermilk and fried Southern-style to create a crunch coat. With throw-back inspiration to his time in Nashville, Brian’s savory ‘hot’ sauce incorporates fresh tropical notes. This surprise of a vegetarian dish is worth sharing (although you may not want to).

The wine cellar is a fun focal point in the front of the restaurant

Most notable are the selections of beef. One-hundred-percent Australian Wagyu is the choice for all of the beef dishes. With an on-site butchery, Brian says he is most excited about showcasing ‘outside cuts’ and ‘butcher cuts’, and added that the cuts that a butcher would normally set aside for his own dinner table will be highlighted on their menu. The charcuterie and cheese experience will also be noteworthy as the team sources highly cultivated meats.

Original circa 1901 Berkel’s Meat Slicer

Pappardelle Vongole: Handmade noodles, clams, XO sauce, yellow chive, garlic chive, bolted chive

The final dimension of Dear is the neighborhood market side at the front of the house. Stop in for fresh Wagyu cuts to grill at home, select salad combinations for lunch, grab a coffee or espresso in the morning, or wine and charcuterie for sharing. The market will offer something for all tastes and times. And for those looking for a taste of Dear from the comfort of home, the restaurant now offers familystyle heat-and-serve dishes for pickup and delivery Thursday through Saturday, which you can pre-order and schedule through the week.

Original vault door remains and offers entrance to private dining room

Capitalizing on their years of diverse experience, Heidt and Young pledge to deliver a fine dining experience of savory and satisfying food in an elevated yet comfortable setting, saying “You’re Always Invited” at Dear Restaurant and Butchery.