Khora Highlights Unique Grains to Enhance Midwestern Cuisine

Written by Matthew Millett / Photography by Andrew Kung

Cincinnati native Kevin Ashworth returned home after spending the past 11 years working with chef, restaurateur, philanthropist, and Emmy nominated television personality Edward Lee in Louisville to collaborate on Khora. After seeing chef Lee at culinary events and in school, he joined the famed chef in Louisville following graduation from the Culinary Institute in Cincinnati State. He has worked with Lee ever since, most recently as executive chef at 610 Magnolia. When the duo teamed up to open the restaurant at the new Kinley Hotel, Ashworth seized upon the opportunity to return to his hometown.

Fresh Seasonal Cocktails

Ashworth wanted a sophisticated, stylish, yet unpretentious philosophy for the restaurant to complement the Kinley hotel brand. There are parallels in the decor, with large colorful abstract murals as a backdrop to the windows overlooking the busyness of 7th and Race streets. While Lee historically puts together Korean-based restaurants, Ashworth went in a different direction, putting together a menu to showcase Midwestern comfort-style dishes with an eclectic approach. Khora, short for “Khorasan,” is an ancient wheat originating from the Fertile Crescent region of the Middle East. Reflective of this moniker and premise, every dish has grain in its composition, and these are typically unique grains that create exciting flavor profiles.

Sharing is a core premise of the restaurant’s philosophy and menu. A selection of starters, pasta, entrees, and deserts inspire guests to embark on a multi-course familystyle dining approach. The grains mentioned above and various ingredients are sourced regionally, and the grains themselves are milled at 16 Brixs or Anson Mills, lending another level of local to the dishes. The selections are eloquently introduced and described with a significant emphasis on the service aspect, as the staff is well trained to guide the selection of menu and fresh seasonal cocktail options.

The ‘starters’ are comprised of stand-alone smaller plates. A standout among these is the beef tartare. The meat is balanced by the sweetness of sauerkraut kimchi and beautifully presented in a smoke-filled dish topped with house-made rye crackers. Fried feta, charred broccolini, a changing Khora flatbread selection, and a spin on French onion dip with caviar and Saratoga chips are all perfectly presented first course options.

Of course, a ‘grain’ based restaurant wouldn’t be complete without multiple pasta options. The shareable pasta dishes are everything but Italian in composition. Sonora Garganelli pairs small chunks of pork sausage in a walnut pesto sauce with fresh seasonal vegetables, which were squash and baby tomatoes during our recent visit. Another option is the ‘Cincy Style’ Gemelli, the chef’s spin on Cincinnati-style chili with lamb ragout, pumpkin seeds, and caramelized goat cheese. The Red Fife (North America’s preferred bread wheat in the 19th century) and coffee mafaldine (flat noodles with ruffled edges), uses fresh lobster in a Calabrian chili butter sauce with fresh locally sourced oyster mushrooms and is a fantastically spicy and flavorful dish. The highlight from the pasta options, however, is the charred corn tortellini. An umami flavor bomb, the fresh sweet corn is balanced by savory Urban Stead quark-stuffed tortellini, which utilizes houseroasted tomatoes for a freshness that perfectly rounds out the dish.

The entrees on the menu revolve around proteins. Red meat options include a stately beef burger with bone marrow mayonnaise, sherry onions, and topped with Brie; it’s a great selection to enjoy at the bar or seated. Other choices for carnivores include a New York strip steak with asparagus, Meyer lemon, and tarragon, and a lamb loin with crispy lamb belly, pistachio, onion, and eggplant. Standouts among the surf entrée options include seared scallops over couscous, green olive, watercress, pickled blueberry, and the Atlantic Black Bass sautéed and served over a waffle of potato with sweet apple slaw, caramelized Brussels sprouts, all topped with a sweet brown butter sauce.

The deserts are expertly put together by Ashworth’s old Cincinnati State instructor, pastry chef Megan Ketover. While still utilizing grains in every dish, Megan comes up with fun combinations for guests. The toasted white chocolate licorice-flavored budino is a rich Italian pudding complimented with buckwheat sable cookie, paired with a rich milk chocolate gelato, and balanced with tart cherry, a chocolate lovers dream. Opt for the lime and almond tart for a lighter option, made using rich emmer grain shortbread. The Marcona almonds are deep-fried and add a touch of saltiness. This time, the ice cream is egg-free, providing a heavy cream flavor to balance the tartness of the lime. It’s garnished with slow-roasted strawberries and raspberries and topped with a crispy meringue. Other options include a chocolate caramel tart and whipped ricotta, which takes on a fluffy cheesecake appeal.

Khora Flatbread

Lime and Almond Tart

Ashworth and his team do a tremendous job of creating memorable dishes executed to perfection. The grain theme pays homage to “America’s breadbasket,” the Midwest, utilizing contemporary flair. sl

Whipped Ricotta

Khora Restaurant, Kinley Hotel Cincinnati | 37 W. 7th Street, Cincinnati, OH 45202 513.977.2800 | www.khorarestaurant.com