The Ritz-Carlton Chicago

A Windy City classic gets a $100 million makeover

Written by Jeffrey Cohen

Feeling fortunate that our children are still young enough to be easily bribed by the promise of a few days’ stay at their grandmother’s lake house, my wife and I recently packed our bags for a short trip to Chicago to celebrate her birthday unimpeded, and on our own terms. Our destination was The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago set in iconic Water Tower Place. This was to be the first time we had paid a visit since the hotel underwent a substantial revitalization that touched upon virtually every part of the property.

Having visited many Ritz-Carlton properties around the world, we have always been impressed by the exceptional level of

customer service we have received, a quality that sets this brand apart from most of its competition. We were greeted warmly upon our arrival, and the hospitality and attention to detail never wavered during our entire stay. Case in point: at the end of our first evening, having never taken advantage of a hotel shoeshine service, I decided when we returned to our suite to give it a try, putting my loafers in the bag provided and hanging them outside on our door. The next morning, I was delighted to find them not just brighter and shinier than they had ever been, but with each shoe wrapped in tissue paper sealed with a sticker. My son, an avid collector of athletic shoes, would have been dazzled.

One of the final stages of the hotel’s renovation included the complete redesign of the guest rooms and suites. Large windows in each room look out over the city, offering spectacular views of Lake Michigan, Navy Pier and the Chicago skyline with its breathtaking architecture all around. Blue and neutral gray tones reflect the seasonal skies and waters of the lake, while dark upholstered furnishings contrast with the soft gray walls and carpet inspired by rippling water. The interior design is intended to pay homage to the skyscrapers set against the lake and the distant horizon across the water. Our bathroom, completely revamped and state-of-the-art, was a modern, sophisticated and minimalist affair, featuring bright white vanities and placid gray stone finishes that provided a calming and contemporary backdrop to our morning and evening rituals.

As far as the rest of the property is concerned, the revitalization has focused on improving facilities, from the spa to the lobby, Club Lounge and destination restaurant, bars and cafe. Through the creative use of color schemes, contemporary artwork, décor and design, it has adopted key elements of the city’s architectural and artistic heritage. Providing a sense of place, the hotel incorporates facets of the city’s status as a pioneer of modern architecture while engendering a seamless continuity between the building’s interior and exterior.

Bottom: The Torali menu includes Italian favorites like Chicken Marsala and a variety of pasta dishes, as well as prime and dry-aged steaks.

Having checked in and spent a few minutes marveling at our magnificent surroundings, my wife and I walked to one of our favorite lunch spots, RL on Chicago Avenue, for a quick bite that included, indulgently, the glorious lobster roll and a couple of glasses of rosé, then it was off to catch the Chicago Architecture Foundation Center (CAFC) river cruise aboard Chicago’s First Lady. Even though we have taken this 90-minute tour up and down all three branches of the Chicago River a few times now, both during the day and evening, we always learn something new. Maybe that’s because the skyline seems ever-changing. We never cease to learn fascinating facts about the city’s cultural and architectural heritage, but I don’t recall the guides ever offering a logical explanation as to why anyone in their right mind would build a transparent platform jutting out from the top of a skyscraper for people to walk on. Such is my fear of heights that, as we sailed by, I was vicariously terrified for anyone venturing onto this seemingly flimsy strip of plexiglass. I must admit that my palms sweated a bit, even though I was safely on aqua firma over a thousand feet below.

The bar at Torali

Dinner our first evening was at Bistronomic, a contemporary French bistro run by chef-owner Martial Noguier and his wife Laurence. A short walk from our hotel, Bistronomic offers a thoroughly engaging menu of French classics, with the occasional Italian dish for variety. My wife enjoyed the steak frites, while I went for the braised lamb shank, preceded by escargots, and the whole meal accompanied by an excellent Gigondas. I would like to have seen a few more assertively Gallic offerings, such as sweetbreads or rognons de veau, but perhaps the dirty bits are a tad too outré for the downtown dinner crowd. Even though we had booked our table at a late hour, the service was exemplary, and Laurence even stopped by to say hello.

The rooftop bar

The following morning, we enjoyed a delightful breakfast of coffee and pastries at The Cafe at The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago before hitting the streets for some light shopping. Enjoyable as our meandering along the river might have been, however, there was a real purpose to our expedition: we had tickets to the opening day of Prince: The Immersive Experience, and Prince happens to be my wife’s favorite musical artist. Designed for music lovers young and old, Prince fans, and even the casual observer, the interactive trip takes visitors through more than 10 multidimensional spaces, where they can experience The Artist’s life, creative evolution, and original sound in a new and illuminating way. The Experience also features historic wardrobe pieces, photography, instruments, and much more, courtesy of The Prince Estate. My respect for Prince has increased a thousandfold since taking in this extraordinary exhibit, and I would urge anyone, Prince fan or not, to pay a visit.

Prince: The Immersive Experience

Dinner that evening, sadly our last night in town, was at the hotel’s relatively new Torali, which consists of the restaurant itself, a separate bar, and a rooftop bar in the shadow of the (former) John Hancock Center. Located on the lobby level on the 12th floor, with a spectacular city view at night, Torali is a modern steakhouse with an Italian twist. This is serious food for gourmets and gourmands alike. Starting with the charcuterie board accompanied by Manhattans, followed by an impeccable filet for my wife, which she described as one of the best cuts of meat she ever had, and the short ribs for me, the flavors throughout were rich, savory and utterly satisfying. Throughout the evening, the service was exemplary, delivered with style and wit by a 40-year veteran of The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago. Obviously, one can’t eat like this every day, but if you must indulge, then this is probably the way to do it. As it was, after all, my wife’s birthday, we finished dinner with a decadent tiramisu crepe cake followed by Cognac at the restaurant’s rooftop bar, entranced by the glittering lights of the city below.

Chicago’s First Lady architectural tours are a perennial favorite.

When you’re having fun in Chicago, two days can seem like two hours, as time loses all meaning. This was certainly a quick trip, but epic and wonderful, too. The Ritz-Carlton, Chicago as always, truly surpassed itself in every conceivable way and we are delighted to add this to our must-stay list of destinations. Making sure not to forget some suitably exotic confectionery to round out the bribe for our kids, we headed home, merrily reminiscing about our whirlwind 48 hours and promising ourselves we wouldn’t let so much time elapse before the next visit. sl

For more information or reservations, visit ritzcarlton.com/chicago