Paris to Paris

Eight days of pampered living on the Seine

Written by Jeffrey Cohen

There is probably no better place to comfortably enjoy the bucolic beauty of rural Normandy than from the vantage point of Le Bistrot, a small dining spot ideally situated at the fore of the S.S. Joie de Vivre, a chic and sophisticated superyacht that regularly plies the waters of the river Seine. Here, a glass of tart and refreshing local cider in hand, I reveled in the rich tapestry of the northern French countryside, shaped by thousands of years of agriculture, marveling at the gnarly apple orchards, timbered homes and ancient hedgerows as we meandered our way down the river towards the English Channel.

The ship's butlers celebrate the christening of the Joie de Vivre

Two days earlier, my wife, kids and I had arrived at the dock in Paris, whisked there by private car from our direct flight, energized by the prospect of spending a week on this floating boutique hotel in the heart of France. We would be embarking upon the Parisian Royal Holiday cruise, eight days of history, art and gastronomy on the majestic river Seine. This was to be our first cruise of any kind, and in spite of our excitement, I still had a minor reservation, stemming from a fear of seasickness: I had heard that the Seine can get quite choppy at times and had accordingly stocked up on appropriate medicines just in case.

The Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection operates a fleet of luxury vessels on rivers around the world and represents the vision of Beatrice Tollman, president and co-founder of the award-winning boutique Red Carnation Hotel Collection. Mrs. Tollman and her daughter Toni Tollman carefully design each ship's interior, inspired by the very destinations through which they sail. With distinctive themes, color palettes, personally selected original art, sumptuous furnishings, and antiques, she and her team blend old-world elegance, the latest technological innovations, and ultra-luxurious amenities on every ship.

The grand staircase in the lobby.

The S.S. Joie de Vivre, our home for the next eight days, brings the joy of living to the rivers of France, inspired by 20th-century Parisian design and featuring handcrafted furniture, fine antiques and original artwork. It’s a floating slice of French culture. Upon embarking, we toured the ship and went through the requisite safety drill before settling into our beautifully appointed and surprisingly spacious cabins. After enjoying cocktails and a splendid dinner in Le Restaurant Pigale as we awaited the arrival of our fellow passengers, we quickly entered relaxation mode. So relaxed were we, in fact, that when we cast off sometime around midnight we were sleeping soundly, waking up the following morning already close to Versailles, ready to begin our tour in earnest. The seasickness medicine was returned to the recesses of my suitcase.

Amenities rival that of a five-star hotel

Even though I had seen the Palace of Versailles in pictures, the reality is even more astonishing: an almost inconceivably vast and rambling edifice to the decadence of absolute power. Rebuilt by the last king of France, Louis XVI, it was stripped of all its furnishings after the French revolution of 1789. An exclusive tour of the royal apartments, arranged by our cruise guides and conducted by a local historian, took us into the private quarters of the courtiers, each room beautifully restored to look as it did in 1788. Following lunch, we visited Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon, a more modest abode, although palatial by most standards, to which the queen would retire in order to escape the tedium of courtly life.

Back on board, we settled into the luxurious rhythms of river cruising, and soon found that virtually every need was anticipated, and no request was too small for the solicitous and charming staff, who quickly felt like old friends. Our housekeeper, a lovely grandmotherly woman, noticed I had developed a slight cold, and, without my even requesting it, made sure to bring me hot herbal tea each day thereafter. And awakening each day to new sights and sounds, only feet away as we glided along the water, was always exhilarating. History was literally within reach….as our boat moved through ancient waterways with locks that have been in use for centuries, my son delighted in reaching out of his cabin window to touch the venerable walls -- and once, even added his name to the many signatures there from past visitors.

Charming Le Bistrot is the perfect spot for a light meal or aperitif.

Overnight, we sailed downriver to Rouen, the medieval capital of Normandy which, in spite of having been a battleground numerous times over the centuries, has managed to maintain much of its charm and history. Famous for its ancient cathedral and stunning medieval buildings, we explored the cobblestone streets and the Christmas market as the scent of cider, crepes, and roasting chestnuts wafted through the crisp air. Here we also enjoyed tea and cakes at La Couronne, the restaurant at which Julia Child had her first life-changing meal in France. Celebrated for its calvados and cheeses, most notably Camembert and Pont L’Évêque, Normandy is a hub of unique gastronomy. It is hardly surprising that Ms. Child was so enamored of the place.

Day four began once again with a hearty breakfast in the ship’s first-rate restaurant, followed by lots of walking, bicycling, and sightseeing. First off was a visit to the twelfth-century Château de La Roche-Guyon, carved into a cliff overlooking the river. Once the gateway between Paris and Normandy, this imposing edifice also served as the headquarters for Field Marshal Erwin Rommel during World War II. Not far away, in the picturesque village of Giverny, art lovers can visit the museum dedicated to Claude Monet and see the gardens that provided so much of his inspiration. Unfortunately, these are closed for the winter, so we were only afforded a fleeting glance as we cruised by on our bicycles.

That evening, we visited the historic Château de Bizy, nicknamed the “Versailles of Normandy.” Passing through the torch-lit gardens and past breathtaking sculptured gardens to the main reception area, we were treated to a private chamber music concert before returning to the ship for another sumptuous dinner that included oysters and lamb en crôute. Offering an extraordinary menu of local and regional specialties, not to mention exceptional wines, Restaurant Pigale delivers some of the most consistently refined dining I have enjoyed anywhere, and in exquisite surroundings. There is also a children’s menu for those who (my daughter for instance) prefer somewhat simpler fare. My son, by contrast, ate more or less everything on the menu with great gusto and even took a class in the art of the cocktail (sans alcohol), great practice for when he eventually reaches legal drinking age.

La Cave des Vins-a private spot for group dining

Although the majority of passengers upon the S.S. Joie de Vivre were adults, children are most welcome, and are in fact catered to specifically on what Uniworld calls its Generations Cruises. These offer plenty of family excursion options every day, children's programming on board, and even includes a children's concierge, who accompanied us on tours in order to better explain the various sights. Our son especially enjoyed the camaraderie with a group of new friends his age from Australia, spending most of the time onboard carousing with them in the pool and enjoying the many amenities for kids, such as a fully-stocked video game room and a lavish cookie/candy bar by the pool deck.

With an extravagant lunch buffet on offer each day, my family and I made sure to take advantage of Club L’Esprit, an onboard spa, and wellness center. Offering massage therapy, yoga, and a resistance pool, as well as a well-equipped fitness center, this is the perfect way to burn off a few hundred calories before putting them right back on when the Club magically transforms every evening into Claude’s, a vibrant bar and entertainment venue. Amazingly, the pool converts into a dance floor, and the stage is set for a festive evening. Here guests can listen to local music, enjoy signature cocktails, or view a classic French film on select nights in an intimate cinema.

Le Restaurant Pigale

With our tour of the Seine now complete, it was back to Paris for three more days aboard our floating hotel. That meant another three days of exceptional dining and fine wine, interspersed with shopping and walking tours of Paris. This included a spin around La Grande Roue, a great Ferris wheel that is only erected at Christmas time in Paris. It stands on the Champs Elysées, a huge circular punctuation mark for the Christmas market there, and it offers fantastic views of the city’s landmarks. With plenty of fine dining at favorite spots such as the chic La Table in the famed Bon Marche department store, and shopping at Galeries Lafayette with its jaw-dropping Christmas windows and enormous decorated tree in the atrium, our three days practically whizzed by in a blur of sights, sounds, and tastes.

You get a different view of a city from the water, even if it is from the top deck of a luxury yacht. I know we only scratched the surface of the various delights, architectural, artistic and gastronomic, that Normandy has to offer, but I’m sure that when we do return, we will entrust ourselves to the care of the Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection. Offering standards of service and attention to detail at the very highest level, not to mention an exceptional commitment to the security of its guests, Uniworld provides a seamless and memorable experience from start to finish. “No request is too large, no detail too small,” goes the Red Carnation motto. My family and I can certainly vouch for that, and count our experience on the S.S. Joie de Vivre as one of our most enjoyable and unforgettable trips ever.