Wild Wonder

12,000-acre Primland Resort provides comfortable confines for outdoor enthusiasts

Written by Bridget Williams

Primland is one of those places that, just when you think you have gone too far, you press on just a little bit more, and are rewarded by becoming part of a select group who have found a magnificent gem hidden amidst 12,000 acres of pristine wilderness on the Blue Ridge escarpment, near the border of Virginia and North Carolina. Purchased in the 1970s by publicity-shy French billionaire Didier Primat (who died in 2008 at age 64), the luxurious golf, hunting, fishing and spa destination is now under the charge of his heirs, who have worked carefully and methodically to develop an unparalleled outdoor playground with equally indulgent indoor amenities.

The promise of breathtaking twists and turns through the mountainous landscape convinced us to travel by car, and once we exited off the highway, we passed through several hamlets best described as either worn or patinaed, depending on your personal spin preference. For those not so inclined, the private Blue Ridge airport is 45 minutes away; a gateway airport in Charlotte, NC, is two hours away; and there are several designated helicopter landing sites scattered throughout the property.

Thinking we were lost, we opted for a sweet stop to ask for directions at Nancy’s Candy, a confectionary factory and retail store located near the entrance to the Blue Ridge Parkway in the small commercial center in Meadows of Dan. With our sweet tooth satiated and assurance that we had just a few more miles to go, we arrived at the entrance gate, where we were then instructed to proceed approximately six miles up a winding, heavily wooded road sprinkled with cottages sporting curious names. Just about the point when everyone was collectively ready to shout “Are we there yet?!” a magnificent 72,000-square-foot cedar and stone lodge appeared in the clearing at the crest of the mountain, quickly assuring us that our persistence had paid off in spades.

Inside the front doors and just past the reception desk and cozy fireplace, the ceiling in the great hall soars to reveal stunning views of the 18th green and the Dan River gorge at the end of the bluff. One is quick to note a world-class collection of aboriginal art strategically placed throughout the lodge.

A reflection of their European ownership, the 26 sleek and contemporary guest suites are free of tired mountain décor clichés. The interiors incorporate natural elements distilled to their simplest beauty. Our one-bedroom suite, decorated predominantly in a palette of robin’s egg blue and chocolate, boasted two full baths, a walk-in closet in the bedroom, a kitchenette with a dining table for four, a work station and a living room with a sleeper sofa. Remote controlled shades on the doors to the balcony that spanned the length of the suite controlled access to sweeping views. Bathrooms were outfitted with slate floors, clean-lined cabinetry, mosaic glass tiled showers and a deep soaking tub.

For a property with just 12 mountain rental homes (ranging in size from one to seven bedrooms), three two-bedroom cottages and 26 lodge rooms, the amenities are what one would expect to find at properties with more than triple the occupancy. Influenced by Native American spirituality, the 8,000-square-foot spa, conceived by owner Garance Primat (who was given the middle name Virginia as the year of her birth coincided with her father’s purchase of the property), encompasses a full range of body and face treatments that utilize organic products and essential oils. The unique Unity Suite, with a Jacuzzi tub and Chromotherapy shower for two, offers a completely relaxing sanctuary for couples, friends, or mothers and daughters. Special therapies are also offered for golfers, children and teens, and a full complement of hair, nail, and makeup services are available.

Within the spa facility is a chlorine-free indoor pool carved from local Virginia granite, an adjacent outdoor walled courtyard with plush loungers, and an elevated fire pit. An exercise facility with a yoga and Pilates studio and a full range of Technogym fitness equipment is complemented by a wall of windows in the round overlooking the golf course. The woman’s locker room features a European infinity-edge Spa Horizon tub that is unique to the United States, as well as a Hamam, while the men’s side offers a sauna and a Hamam. The locally hired staff of seven has been trained by Sylvie Keo, one of France’s top spa consultants. As is the case throughout the lodge, modern design elements are always tempered with natural materials, such as sleek silver door handles covered with leather.

Prior to my indulgent 90-minute “Stone of Eternal Youth” facial, I took some time to enjoy the tranquility of the relaxation room. Special glass in a wall of windows overlooking the 18th fairway allowed me to see out but prevented the nearby golfers from seeing me, thus concealing an occasional smile elicited by covert observations of errant putts and the ensuing body language.

Located on the same level as the spa, the game room is a haven for families. Stocked with Wii and Xbox game systems, billiards, ping-pong, and a host of classic and current board games, it provides options for hours of entertainment for guests of all ages.

There are three distinct restaurants on property. A two-story wine cellar marks the entrance to Elements, a fine dining destination open for breakfast and dinner. The 19th Pub offers casual cuisine and beverages for mid-round or afterward in a more rustic setting. The wormy chestnut used on the walls was sourced for years due to its scarcity. Located above a one-time horse barn, Stables Saloon was the first dining establishment on the property, and its knotty pine walls are adorned with 19th-century hunting and fishing paraphernalia.

What appears to be a silo attached to one end of the lodge reveals its true identity at dusk when the domed roof opens to reveal a sophisticated Celestron CGE Pro 1400 telescope. Astronomy was a passion for Primland’s founder, and the resort maintains a resident “Starmaster” to entertain and inform guests, who, on clear nights, are treated to views of galaxies some 27 million light-years away. During inclement weather, a celestial tour is given in the theatre, as was the case during my visit. Believing I was not inclined to enjoy such a presentation, I was pleasantly surprised to be quite engrossed by Starmaster Nathan Pruitt’s informative tour of the universe.

While the indoor amenities are tempting enough to make one remain within the confines of the lodge throughout their visit, what is outside remains the true draw. Primland is the largest hunting resort in Virginia, serving as an Orvis wingshooting destination for 17 years. Hunters can partake in fully guided upland-style wing shooting for pheasant, quail, partridge, whitetail deer hunts, and spring gobbler hunting. Fishermen enjoy casting for rainbow, brown or brook trout in the headwaters of the Dan River in an area known as the Grand Canyon of Virginia.

Didier Primat was said to have thoroughly enjoyed traversing the property via ATV, and I am quick to share this sentiment. Zipping along portions of the 35 dedicated miles of forested ATV, mountain biking, horseback and hiking trails – including splashing through several creek beds before stopping at the crest of a minor mountain – is the best way to appreciate the beauty and vastness of the dominion.

Not a hunter myself, I did opt to try my hand at a few of the stations spread out over the mile-long, 15-station sporting clay course. While the clay disks had nothing to fear, the nearby wildlife certainly scattered as a result of my pell-mell shots! If you are lucky, your outdoor adventures will be led by Carlton Largen, a lifelong resident and long-time employee whose down-to-earth style and stories of country life made our experiences that much more enjoyable.

In 2007, Golf Digest named Primland’s Donald Steel designed Highland golf course as one of the best new public courses in America (among those with greens fees of $75+). Situated at nearly 3,000 feet above sea level, the Highland course is Steel’s fifth project in North America, and the first he designed that required the use of dynamite. In Steel’s own words, the course – which features closely cut areas around greens, the use of bent and fescue grasses, interesting putting surfaces and challenging driving and bunkers – “looks exactly like a golf course should.” Golfers can choose to lodge in a trio of newly constructed and well-appointed Fairway Cottages that include gathering spaces just for golfers.

To say Head Golf Pro Jeff Fraim lives for the game would be an understatement. An avid golfer since age 13, his résumé includes the Everglades Club in Palm Beach, Yeamans Hall Club in Charleston, and Edgartown Golf Club in Martha’s Vineyard, among others. As a Class “A” Member of the PGA, his easygoing disposition translates into exceptional teaching and tournament operations.

A deep feeling of reverence for the land reverberates through every aspect of the Primland experience. It is a sentiment that can be traced back to the Cherokee Nation, who sold the area of Primland to the British Government on October 14, 1768, as part of the Treaty of Hard Labor. Garance Primat looks to the words and writings of Native Americans to help guide the property’s future. Among these, the writings of Tatanga Mani (Walking Buffalo, 1871-1967) are particularly poignant: “Lots of people hardly ever feel real soil under their feet, see plants grow except in flower pots or get far enough beyond the street light to catch the enchantment of the night sky studded with stars. When people live far from scenes of the Great Spirit’s making, it is easy for them to forget His laws. We need to visit nature so we can see and feel these things.”

For more information or reservations call 866-960-7746 or primland.com.