BACK TO THE FUTURE

The Haymarket brings the farm directly to your table.

Written by Bridget Williams / Photos by Ashley Stinson

Austin Musselman wants to continue the momentum behind moving the farm-to-table concept from a foodie fad to a cultural norm. And, while it's often said that the "proof is in the pudding," at the Haymarket, Musselman's latest endeavor, fashioned out of the former Lebanese American Country Club on River Road in east Louisville, the proof permeates everything from gourmet graband-go entrees to just-picked ramps in a produce section that makes standard fare at the local hypermarket look anemic by comparison.

Consider the humble radish. While walking and talking with Musselman as part of a pre-opening event at the Haymarket, he cites this root vegetable, often relegated to a sparingly used garnish, as something that becomes a star in its own right when picked locally and eaten soon after that. "When you taste something picked that morning, it's like nothing else," he opined. While the idea had been percolating in his mind for some time, it wasn't until he saw the "For Sale" sign in front of the property that the wheels went into motion. Ultimately, the desire to share the farm's bounty with a larger audience while forging a pathway to support local farmers is the driving force behind the Haymarket, which took three full years to bring to fruition.

With Musselman in the driver's seat on the road to realizing a long-held dream, he is quick to cite his reliance on an accomplished and dedicated team of co-pilots, including, but certainly not limited to, COO Rodney Wedge, Chief Experience Officer Annie Cobetto, in-house interior designer Weasy MacLean, and chef Ryan Smith. The Haymarket will employ as many as 100 people when operating at full capacity.

The physical space is as appetizing as what's displayed on the shelves. A sprawling English-made iron chandelier depicting delicate branches of an oak tree hangs above pastry cases chock full of tempting treats and fresh bread rivaling a boulangerie in one of Paris' chicest arrondissements. Demolition work uncovered a barrel-vault ceiling supported by exposed trusses. Their former bright orange is now a more pleasing "Ashbourne Green."

The Haymarket name represents a family tie to the physical space and Louisville's original Haymarket, an outdoor farmer's market in operation from 1891-1962 between Jefferson, Liberty, Floyd, and Brook streets in downtown.

Bakery goods and packed foods are made in the company's state-of-the-art commissary on Main Street in downtown Louisville, near where a second Haymarket outpost is planned. Musselman's vision is to replicate the concept but tailor the offerings at each site so they are unique to the needs of each neighborhood. The downtown location, for instance, will focus on portions sized for one or two, while the River Road stocks more "family-sized" entrees and side dishes. Items not made or grown in-house are sourced from artisanal producers. "We chose them because they're good," explained Musselman. Ashbourne's former CSA program has ceased, so those looking for fresh produce can come directly to the Haymarket and select exactly what they want.

Musselman explained the concept behind the packaged foods, made-to-order items at an inside counter and an outside drive-through, and a catering operation as "grounded in old Southern cooking with a focus on being health conscious and mindful of dietary needs." Annie Cobetto commented that the year-and-a-half spent developing the menus was rigorous and included doing away with less expensive inflammatory oils and working tirelessly to source the best ingredients. "We are doing things the hard way because it's the right way to drive culinary excellence in Kentucky," she explained.

Grab a gourmet sandwich or salad and head outside to Haymarket's "backyard," which includes a covered terrace adorned with interesting air plants and black-framed mirrors of varying sizes. An artificial turf lawn dotted with picnic tables is designed to be family-friendly and will host seasonal events throughout the year. Beyond is a mini-farm and greenhouse operation that supplies flowers and produce year-round. While not certified organic, Musselman elucidated that everything they do is designed to nourish the earth and be as minimally invasive as possible. "We are returning to the old way of doing things even though it seems new."

Located at 3020 River Road, the Haymarket is open seven days a week from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. The drive-thru is open every day from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m.