The Grand Canal with a a view of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Photo by Matthew Cottrell
SOMETHING NEW UNDER THE SUN Ca Di Dio, Venice's newest five-star hotel, presents a masterful melding of old and new. Written by Bridget Williams "If you read a lot, nothing is as great as you've imagined. Venice is—Venice is better." ~Fran Lebowitz On the long-haul portion of our flight to Venice (via CDG), I delved into The Venice Sketchbook, an easy and engaging read by Rhys Bowen. The author wove the narrative by alternating between the stories of a young British woman in Venice around World War II and her niece in the present day. The author did such a fabulous job setting the scene that several sights appeared familiar even though it was the first time I'd laid eyes on them. I have COVID to thank for a much less crowded visit this past February, which also happened to coincide with the start of Carnevale. Lingering restrictions meant more breathing room in places like the famous St. Mark's Square to watch the parade of lavishly costumed revelers. Following the movement of the swarm of onlookers made it easy to locate the most over-the-top ensembles, and I was happy to join the fray seeking a photograph. We arrived at our hotel, the newly-opened five-star Ca Di Dio, as one should when visiting Venice for the first time (or anytime you can): by motoscafi (water taxi), at the hotel's "side" door. The property sits in the quieter Arsenale district, where the famous Art Biennale
is held; it's taking place now through November (labiennale.org/en/ art/2022). We braved the chill to sit in the open-air portion at the back of our motoscafi to watch as the bell tower of Piazza San Marco came closer into view as we transitioned from open lagoon to narrow canals. Instantly enamored, I marveled at how the water, which some argue is cleaner and clearer due to Italy's 2020 lockdown, lapped at doorways like an incessant solicitor. As an American whose county is a mere 246 years old, learning that portions of Ca Di Dio were erected in the 13th century is just mind-boggling. For reference, during this time, the Crusades were still underway, and Venetian explorer Marco Polo was traveling the Silk Road. Part of the VRetreats collection, managed by Italy's VOI Hotels, Ca Di Dio's three-story structure has served as a hostel for Crusaders and later as a hospice for women. Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola spearheaded the three-year renovation. Strict historic preservation guidelines prevented changes to the Istrian stone façade dotted with 442 windows and the interior floorplan, resulting in an aura of austere elegance. Juxtaposed with the original features are contemporary building and interior design elements sourced exclusively from Italy, such as the handcrafted Murano glass lamps, Venetian plaster walls, and custom furnishings. slmag.net
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