Jean Farris Winery & Bistro

Written by Bridget Williams/Photography by Eric Williams

Although Jean Farris Winery & Bistro is located just a few minutes from the hustle and bustle of Richmond Road, sitting on the patio with wine glass in hand, listening to live music and watching the wind rustle the leaves of the grapevines dotting the gently sloping hillside, it’s easy to feel worlds away.

Proprietors Ben and Jeanie O’Daniel live in a storybook yellow farmhouse on the 14-acre property, which is also home to 7.5-acres of vineyards, two barns – one an 80-year-old tobacco barn and the other built on the footprint of a decrepit structure – which house the wine-making building and bistro/tasting room respectively. For Ben, staying true to the property’s agrarian roots was important. “It’s all about cultural relevance,” he remarked. “The simple buildings are what one would expect to find in this rural landscape.”

Executive Chef Javier Lanza

A desire for authenticity also permeates the menu at the bistro, which was opened in 2007 (the grapes were planted in 2004 and public wine sales began in 2006). The menu is largely a reflection of the couple’s personal taste combined with feedback from guests. Ben furthers a sense of place within the menu offerings by incorporating locally sourced ingredients such as blackberries and vegetables from neighboring farms and herbs that grow just outside the kitchen’s back door. Executive Chef Javier Lanza boasts an impressive resume, including the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park and time spent honing his skills in top-notch kitchens in New York City and California.

With his varied background, Lanza presents a diverse culinary adventure and a menu that evolves with the seasons (approximately every three months). “When I was younger, I wanted to do all of my cooking in the French style,” he said. “But as I worked in other places and became exposed to different cooking styles, I discovered that Hispanic and Asian cuisines can be healthier, so I really embrace it all.”

Being a winery first and foremost, the menu is designed to complement Jean Farris’ specialty dry wines. The O’Daniels’ decision to focus on dry wines was purely a stylistic choice that allows them to craft wine in the European tradition. Not only does the cuisine complement the wine, but many dishes also incorporate wine, including dry vermouth in the gnocchi and mushroom ragout, chardonnay in the chicken chardonnay and a cabernet reduction accompanying the filet mignon.

The bistro offers two distinct dining experiences: inside in the tall-ceilinged dining room and bar that seats 60 or outside on the covered patio, which seats 50. Patinated copper pendant lights hang above iron bistro tables covered with white tablecloths on the patio. Inside, cozy high-backed banquettes line the room’s perimeter. Art and sculpture by the late John Regis Tuska can be found inside and out.

Not surprisingly, the staff is well-versed in each of the 22 red and white wines produced on-site. My personal palette tends to gravitate toward sweeter vines, but I found that the 2007 Viognier struck the right balance between sweet and spicy tones and offered a crisp finish. Our meal began with an amuse-bouche of shrimp and lobster with a tangy Asian slaw that was balanced on a crispy wonton. The burst of flavor in that one tiny bite left me excited about what was to follow. We followed with a bowl of robust French onion soup and a Southern staple – shrimp and grits, made with savory andouille sausage.

For the salad course, we selected a delectable Jean Farris salad adorned with red onions, fresh strawberries, candied pecans, and a maple-mustard dressing. The gnocchi I chose for my entrée was as light as air, swimming in a delicately seasoned broth that countered the earthiness of the accompanying mushrooms. The sea scallops and filet mignon chosen by my tablemates elicited similar expressions of delight.

Accompanying a selection of classic desserts, including chocolate fondant, flan and vanilla crème brulee, is a selection of three sweets wines: Muscat, Dolce Sweet Blush and Dolce Sweet Red. In lieu of dessert, I chose to savor a glass of the Muscat, whose flavors of apricot, floral, honey and grapefruit provided an appropriately sweet ending to a delightful evening.