Gay Games in Guadalajara

Guadalajara Gears Up for the LGBTQ Travel Spotlight

BY MARK CHESNUT

Guadalajara is home to many things uniquely Mexican: mariachi music, tequila and charrería rodeos, to name a few. Now, Mexico’s second largest city is staking another claim to fame, as the first place in Latin America to host the Gay Games.

The 11th edition of Gay Games, the global LGBTQ sporting and cultural event, will take place in Guadalajara November 3-11, 2023, with the city serving as cohost with Hong Kong. Competitions will range from water polo and diving to basketball and golf, from wrestling and powerlifting to tennis and figure skating. This year, there will even be an exhibition of Mexican lucha libre wrestling. This year’s Gay Games promises to be like no other sporting event.

Considering that some 10,000 participants attend Gay Games events, which occur every four years, it’s no surprise that Guadalajara will be in the spotlight like never before within the global LGBTQ community.

“Guadalajara is an amazing city, full of life, culture and warm spirit, and we know that the enthusiasm from all walks of life will bring a scintillating atmosphere to the Games,” says Adrian Hyyrylainen-Trett, vice president of external relations at the Federation of Gay Games. “The Board were in Guadalajara last November, and the welcome was so convivial, with the host organization working hard alongside local and regional governments in order to put on the best Games ever.”

Even if you can’t make it to the Gay Games, Guadalajara is a great place for an LGBTQ vacation. The city has long been a favored destination for LGBTQ travelers looking for a sophisticated urban destination with great food, culture, and a welcoming environment for LGBTQ people. The city’s warm climate, welcoming atmosphere, and convenient proximity to Puerto Vallarta (which is also located in the state of Jalisco) has helped make it a favored destination for an increasing vacation destination for LGBTQ travelers, and with good reason.

Same-sex marriage has been legal in the state of Jalisco since 2016 and the city hosts not one but two pride celebrations every year: Guadalajara Pride is slated next for June 3, while the Marcha de Orgullo GDL takes place on June 10.

Guadalajara’s LGBTQ fabulousness goes beyond its annual events. The city reportedly has the largest LGBTQ community per capita in Mexico, according to the National Statistics and Geography Institute, with more than 340,000 LGBTQ people and 230,000 LGBTQ households. The fact that the city’s tourism office proudly shares this information on its general website — and also maintains a dedicated LGBTQ section — is yet another sign of just how welcoming this magnificent metropolis really is.

Getting Around

Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla International Airport is served by several U.S. Airlines from major hubs, primarily in the Midwest and western United States. Mexican carriers Aeromexico, Volaris and Viva Aerobus also connect the city with the United States (discount carrier Volaris ies nonstop from Orlando International Airport to Guadalajara, for example).

After landing, stop at a taxi kiosk and pay a at rate, determined by neighborhood, to get into the city; currently, Uber is allowed to drop o at the airport but not pick up.

Once in the city, Uber is the most efficient way to get around, but I’ve also made good use of the bus and the metro system — although the metro doesn’t connect many parts of the city that are popular with tourists.

What to Do

The historic city center is square one for learning about Guadalajara’s rich history, which dates to 1542. The soaring Catedral de Guadalajara (Guadalajara Cathedral) is an iconic landmark, with its twin spires and dramatic interior that features Gothic vaults and gold-leaf pillars. Nearby, the Teatro Degollado (Degollado Theater; Calle Degollado s/n, Zona Centro is an elegant, neoclassical venue that dates to 1856; it’s worth checking the schedule to see if you can catch a performance of music, dance or theater.

A few blocks away is another must-see attraction: Hospicio Cabañas (Cabañas 8, Tapatía, Zona

Centro, the city’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site. Constructed in the 19th century as a home for the disadvantaged, it is today a stunning architectural attraction as well as a noteworthy art museum that hosts temporary exhibits as well as permanent displays of the works of one of the city’s most revered artists: Jose Clemente Orozco (1833-1949), who was known for its eye-catching murals depicting everything from religion and politics to national identity.

Clemente Orozco’s work is also on permanent display at the Museo de las Artes Universidad de Guadalajara (Avenida Juarez 975, Americana), the art museum of the University of Guadalajara, and the Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace), a gorgeous, 18th-century government building with public areas that are usually open to the public during business hours.

Art lovers may also want to visit Tlaquepaque, a smaller city that lies adjacent to Guadalajara. Known for its art galleries, shops and restaurants that line its squares and pedestrian walkways, it’s a pleasant place to stroll and shop for gifts. If you’re a fan of Sergio Bustamante, whose striking sculptural work graces the waterfront of Puerto Vallarta, be sure to stop at his gallery in Tlaquepaque.

Lovers of spirits, meanwhile, should plan a side trip to Tequila, the historic town that’s the birthplace of the eponymous beverage. Located less than an hour from Guadalajara, Tequila is home to multiple distilleries that o er tours and tastings, including Casa Sauza and Mundo Cuervo, which offers “tequila train” service from Guadalajara.

Another rewarding side trip destination from the city of Guadalajara is Lake Chapala, Mexico’s largest freshwater lake. Boat excursions are offered from the town of Chapala, while nearby Ajijic is a picturesque lakefront town that attracts many expats.

Nightlife

Guadalajara is home to vibrant LGBTQ nightlife, although it tends to be quieter during the week. For a fun, early-evening outing from Tuesday through Sunday, I recommend Sin Fin (Calle Emeterio Robles Gil 43, Americana, a laidback venue located in the trendy Americana neighborhood that features a light food menu and occasional drag shows.

For dancing and larger-scale excitement, downtown Guadalajara o ers the greatest concentration of LGBTQ night clubs. Popular choices include California’s (Avenida 8 de Julio 652, a lively dance club that won’t win any design awards but still wows with its packed crowds and dance pop music every weekend.

Also packed on weekends is Xico (Calle Prisciliano Sánchez 43, a newer LGBTQ dance club with go-go boys and drag performances. Drag is an even bigger draw at Cabaret VIP (Calle Galeana 277), where the shows are the main attraction. And for a unique and fun ambiance, you can’t beat La Gozadera (Calle López Cotilla 611), a multi-story venue where the compact ground floor bar area pumps pop music to accompany drag and go-go shows, while the second floor is called the Zona Cowboy, with many patrons dressing accordingly.

Depending on when you visit, you may even be able to enjoy a live performance of mariachi music and dance with an LGBTQ twist. A music/ dance group called Diversidad Jaliciense features trans and gay male members, and stages performances at various times throughout the year.

Where to Stay

You’ll find accommodations to t every budget in Guadalajara. Among the city’s newest hotels are the JW Marriott Guadalajara (Mar Báltico 2242, Country Club), which provides a predictably upscale JW experience, and the Voco Hotel Guadalajara Neruda (Av Pablo Neruda 2828, Providencia), the first Latin America location of one of

IHG’s newest hotel brands. I enjoyed a supremely comfortable stay in a handsomely decorated room at the Voco, as well as a tasty lunch at its beautiful restaurant, Querido Luna which offers inspiring city views from its large terrace.

The DoubleTree by Hilton Guadalajara Centro Historico (Calle C. Colón 73), meanwhile, is ideal for those looking to stay in the heart of the historic city center. Even if you don’t stay there, the rooftop bar restaurant is a perfect place to stop after a day of downtown touring, to enjoy a drink and admire the view of the cathedral.

If you prefer a hipper vibe in an upscale neighborhood, you’ll do well in the area called Americana, where decidedly design-conscious boutique hotels include Demetria (Avenida de la Paz 2219) and Casa Habita (C. Miguel Lerdo de Tejada 2308). And, for old-school luxury, I’ve also enjoyed a lovely stay at the Quinta Real (Av. México 2727-P. B, Vallarta Norte), where the large suites and lush gardens exude old-fashioned hacienda elegance.

Where to Eat

Guadalajara is known for its regional culinary specialties, including tortas ahogadas (literally, “drowned sandwiches,” bathed in a sauce made with dried chili pepper). Tortas Toño (multiple locations) is one of the most recommended places to dig into one.

Another local favorite is birria, a meat stew made with goat, beef, lamb, or chicken. I’ve savored the dish at the appropriately named Birria Las Nueve Esquinas (Calle Colón 384).

The city is also home to myriad upscale dining venues, where celebrated chefs serve fresh creations with international air. Among my favorites is Hueso (Calle Efraín González Luna 2061), a visually stunning eatery bathed in white (the curiously creative decoration features thousands of animal bones) where stylishly dressed diners choose from a menu of contemporary Mexican and international cuisine.

New restaurants garnering positive reviews include Octo, an upscale venue with a sophisticated seafood menu, Señor Tanaka, a favorite for Japanese cuisine, and Tintoretto, which blends Italian traditions with Mexican influences. And for deep dish, Chicago-style pizza, my favorite is the recently expanded Vulcanos (Avenida Hidalgo 1302).

Tips for Attending Gay Games

If you aim to visit Guadalajara during the Gay Games, it’s a good idea to plan well in advance. Hyyrylainen-Trett notes that the event’s website can help with accommodation ideas. “On the site there are details [about] the venues and accommodation, so if you have a particular venue to visit… then you may want to choose your hotel nearer to the venue,” he advises. “There are lots of options, but if you are visiting for the games, then really think about the sports you like watching and how you can make your own timetable for the games.”

For more information. see the Guadalajara Convention and Visitors O ice website, visitguadalajara.com

MARK CHESNUT is a New York City based writer, editor, and public speaker. The winner of the 2019 NLGJA Excellence in Travel Writing Award, he's the author of the new memoir "Prepare for Departure: Notes on a Single Mother, a Misfit Son, Inevitable Mortality and the Enduring Allure of Frequent Flyer Miles" (Vine Leaves Press, 2022). His travel writing has appeared in media including Fodor's, Forbes Travel Guide, Hu Post, the Miami Herald, his blog LatinFlyer.com and the New York Times bestseller "1,000 Places to See Before You Die."