Retail Buyer’s Guide: Baselayer 2022/23

RETAIL BUYER’S GUIDE

BASE LAYERS 2022/23

Properly geared up, you can withstand almost all conditions. What you wear underneath is just as, if not more important, than your outerwear, which is why we’re now dedicating a full Buyer’s Guide to base layers. Anna Langer reviews the trends for FW22/23.

ROJO

MATERIALS

Creating the perfect mix of warmth and breathability for a myriad of different body climates is the main goal for the base layer segment, keeping their customers dry and toasty at the same time - all day long, no matter the level of activity. To achieve this tricky balance, PAG developed a new textile material in collaboration with 37.5 Technology, based on dynamic thermoregulation: “Our base layer retains the right amount of infrared to keep you warm in winter conditions and in summer and during intense exercise, it expels excess heat to keep you cool & dry.” FLŌA combine the natural qualities of merino with the engineered qualities of polyester, using the latest seamless manufacturing techniques and yarn construction, giving riders a garment with advanced wicking properties. Also perfect for going way out is the popular Airblaster Ninja Suit Pro, which got a makeover with Polartec Powergrid. “Protection from the elements begins with proper base wear: the first and last line of defence,” muses FW Marketing Manager Irena Umek, a brand who make their layers from merino. Norrøna launch their first styles in their new Norrøna Ull merino material for FW22/23: “We will offer Ull in different fabric qualities: pureUll (100% merino wool) and corespunUll (which is spun around a recycled nylon core),” explains Karoline Sarilla, Norrøna’s Web and Content Editor. Kari Traa also use merino, and they even pair it with cashmere, yet their main innovation is the seamless wool Oline base layer that adapts to fit your body if you have parts that are in-between sizes, like wider hips or broad muscular shoulders: “This merino wool mix is suitable for a various range of activities and adapts with temperature changes. Seamless construction creates a minimal amount of production waste and is a very big sustainable step.” Picture Organic Clothing is introducing men’s and women’s outfits in merino tencel, with flat seams designed to be anti-chafing, in addition to their usual basic range of layers in recycled polyester. Eivy Clothing have moved all their products to sustainable fabrics, which saw them achieve Global Recycled Standard certification last season, which they are super happy with. “Base layers have been a massive part of Rojo Outerwear since inception,” says founder Jo Buckle. “All of our base layer fabrics are saving numerous plastic bottles from landfill and the use of water-based inks and prints is also reducing the amount of water wasted in the production process.” Kari Traa have found that “designing starts with fibre choice, and it’s essential to weigh up fibre performance versus its overall environmental impact” and are working to update well-known synthetical base layer styles into recycled fabrics. Dakine also feature recycled breathable fabrics. The new Bentu Plus Fleece made of Nikwax Fleece fabric, is water repellent, warm and breathable. “When teamed with a Duology Windproof, from the Páramo collection, they form the Nikwax Duology waterproof system. This unique system provides optimum protection whilst outdoors.”

SILHOUETTES

Kari Traa’s main focus for FW22/23 is on inclusivity and the materials responding to specific needs of the growing plus-size markets. “And it is not just about the size, but the multiple variations of female curves that each require designing different silhouettes. A growing number of products in our collection are designed to work with a diverse range of body types,” like the above-mentioned Kari Traa Oline base layer. Eivy continue their Icecold tops and tights lines, “timeless multifunctional designs that have been incrementally improved since our Founder and Creative Director Anna Vister invented the neckwarmer base layer over ten years ago” says CEO Martin Vister, as well as adding more ribbed styles, for which the FW21/22 pre-orders have been really strong. FW create “RAW BSW garments to act as a second skin which are ergonomically designed to stretch naturally with your body”. Dakine offer two silhouettes: the Kickback and the Liberator, for an articulated and a relaxed fit, respectively. The Liberator also comes with a hood.

COLOURS & PRINTS

“Our base layer collection does not only match our outerwear design; our base layer’s colourful prints, comfortable fabrics and fashionable fits can be worn as a statement before and after the slopes. Our goal was to design base layers that don’t look like underwear but can also be worn for any sports activities or even worn in the office,” says elho CEO, Simone Pitow. Kari Traa is also known for their iconic patterns, which they are still focusing on with a new, toned down and sophisticated take in Rose Light. Eivy continue their Pink Cheetah, Abstract Shapes and MX Pink prints and will collaborate with Jamie Anderson for the next two years, so keep your eyes peeled for updates on this. The main colours in base layers range from classic blacks for men, women and kids, to shade of blues, pinks and greens for the female customers.

HIGHLIGHTS

Visit our website to see in depth brand previews of this category.

BOARDSPORTSOURCE.COM

1 Merino & Merino blends 2 Ergonomic Designs 3 patterns 4 Black for all, pink & blue for women’s