Sip & Savor Spring 2020 by Rosebud Media

Spring 2020

Jackson and Josephine Counties’ Guide to Wining and Dining!

S TA F F CEO & Publisher: Steven Saslow Associate Publisher & VP of Sales: Gail Whiting Design & Production: Paul Bunch & John Sullivan Sales Supervisor: Laura Perkins

ADVERTISING INDEX

Sp r i n g 2 0 2 0

Applebee’s.................................................38

Melange Eatery .........................................25

Café Dejeuner..............................................8

Ostras Tapas & Bottle Shop ......................10

Callahan’s Siskiyou Lodge.........................28

Paschal Winery .........................................13

Cartwright’s Market ...................................10 Cow Creek Restaurant...............................38 Grocery Outlet ...........................................40 Honeysuckle Café......................................30 Jacksonville Inn ........................................23 La Fiesta Mexican Restaurant ...................16

The Point Pub and Grill .............................35 Porters Dining at the Depot.......................11 River Station .............................................31 Rosario’s Italian Restaurant ........................8 Shoji’s of Medford.....................................33

La Reyna Monarca ....................................21

Twisted Cork Bistro and Wine Bar ...............6

Luna Mexican Cuisine .................................3

Wayback Burgers ......................................18

Luna Mexican Cuisine .................................4

Wild River Brewing Company ...................28

ON THE COVER

Sip & Savor is published quarterly by the Rosebud Media Advertising Department 111 N Fir St., Medford, OR 97501 General Information: (541) 776-4422

The Twisted Cork’s Beet Salad Mixed greens, roasted beets, goat cheese, fennel, citrus segments, citrus vinaigrette, and crushed pistachios

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ONLINE GIFT CERTIFICATE SALE 5 DAYS ONLY! Monday, February 24 through Friday, February 28 On Monday, February 24, go to SOGiftCards.com and find gift certificates from dozens of local restaurants, wineries, and local businesses for 10% off face value. On Tuesday, they will be 20% off, and so on until the final day of the sale on Friday, February 28, when all remaining gift certificates will be 50% off. Buy as many as you like, but don’t wait too long - the certificate to your favorite local business may be gone!

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Questions? Please contact the Rosebud Media Advertising Department at (541) 776-4422 Sip & Savor ▪ Spring 2020

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Spring 2020 ▪ Sip & Savor

LUNA MEXICAN CUISINE HAS TURNED 1!!! Eduardo, Juan, and Paige, along with all the staff here at Luna would like to say GRACIAS! to all our beloved customers who helped make our first year a tremendous success!! We are blessed to have the most incredible customers who go quickly from friends to feeling like family, and we are beyond grateful to continue to serve you for years to come! 1310 Center Drive, Medford â&#x20AC;˘ 541-816-4615 MF-00122862

Sip & Savor â&#x2013;Ş Spring 2020

Harvest party Three local winemakers have teamed up to make a new wine, Pinot Noir Nouveau, and will hold a celebration to uncork it By MJ Daspit

for the Mail Tribune

This year, for the first time, three local wineries have teamed up to put on an event to celebrate the wine grape harvest in the Rogue Valley. The event is patterned after the harvest celebration in Beaujolais, France, which has been held the third Thursday of November for hundreds of years. The local take, dubbed the Ashland Nouveau Celebration, is also a wine release party that features a 2019 vintage made just for the occasion from grapes harvested only a few weeks ago. In Beaujolais, the wine, named Beaujolais after the region, is made from gamay noir grapes fermented through a process known as carbonic maceration that produces a light, fruity wine in a very short time. The local version, made by Rob Folin of Belle Fiore Winery, Eric Weisinger of Weisinger Family Winery and Vince Vidrine of Irvine & Roberts Vineyards, is made from pinot noir and has been dubbed Pinot Noir Nouveau. “It all started because Rob was bored,” says Weisinger, not really joking. Due to the difference in grape varieties produced at Belle Fiore, Folin admits that when his neighbors started getting fruit in, he still had

time on his hands. “We try every year to do something different — use different barrels, for instance. But I was just kind of standing around and thought, what about a totally different way of making wine? The carbonic maceration idea was really cool. This was a way to take some pinot and do it in a totally different way.”

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Along with introducing a new fermentation method this year, Folin’s idea sparked an unprecedented team effort: three winemakers working to produce a new wine and introduce it to the public together. “Rob came over to our place sometime in August and said, what do you think about doing a nouveau pinot? And the first thing I asked is,

‘What’s that?’ We chatted, and I said sure, I’m in, and he sent me a link to an internet article describing the whole process. Basically we took all the grapes, threw them into a bin, chucked a bunch of dry ice on it, sealed it up and left it for about 10 days.” CONTINUED ON PAGE 7

on local restaurant & winery gift certificates!

On Monday, February 24, go to SOGiftCards.com and find gift certificates from dozens of local restaurants, wineries, and local businesses for 10% off face value. On Tuesday, they will be 20% off, and so on until the final day of the sale on Friday, February 28, when all remaining gift certificates will be 50% off. Buy as many as you like, but don’t wait too long - the certificate to your favorite local business may be gone!

ONLINE GIFT CERTIFICATE SALE 5 DAYS ONLY! Monday, February 24 through Friday, February 28

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Questions? Please contact the Rosebud Media Advertising Department at (541) 776-4422 Spring 2020 ▪ Sip & Savor

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Sip & Savor â&#x2013;Ş Spring 2020

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 5

Vidrine recalls, “I was working on the crush pad, and Rob came over with this idea the same day as he visited Eric, and it just sounded like fun. It’s a different way of making wine and a cool celebration of the harvest. We’re going to be pouring this wine next week — it’s kind of a crazy concept. The rest of the 2019 pinots won’t even be released for a couple years, so it’s really different.” “Almost instant gratification,” Weisinger adds. Folin gives credit to his assistant winemaker Kevin Breck for coming up with articles to guide them through the process. Vidrine says he called a buddy who had worked in Burgundy to get advice. But basically the three winemakers took the experimental leap together, each using about half a ton of fruit to produce a barrel, about 24 cases, of Pinot Noir Nouveau under their three different labels. This unique wine will be introduced to the public at the cooperative party they named the Ashland Nouveau Celebration. “There’s a lot of thought that went into the wines,” Folin says, “but the overall idea is just to do something fun and relax and enjoy ourselves.” “I’ve never worked with two other winemakers in this way,” Weisinger adds. “It’s fun. It’s great. Sometimes wine can be a little bit stuffy, but it’s just wine.” Speaking of the event, he adds, “It brings a little bit more of wine culture here, and that’s something we’ve seen grow over the last 25 years or so. I can recall years ago when we first opened our tasting room, people from Sonoma or Napa would come in and the first thing they’d tell you was, I’m from Sonoma or I’m from Napa. It occurred to me that they were proud they were from a wine-producing region. I thought then that it would be great if we could create an industry here where people are proud to say, ‘I’m from the Rogue Valley,’ to have that sense of ownership and be part of that community.” Vidrine agrees. “We all really are neighbors, and building our wine culture together in this little area is a cool thing.” Featuring music by Trio Pernod

and food by Full Moon Crepes, the event will be held street-side at 160 Lithia Way, between Pioneer Avenue and First Street, from 4 to 7 p.m., Thursday, Nov. 21. Three-hundred tickets are available, and the $25 price includes a taste of each of the nouveau-style wines. Glass pours, single bottles and a three pack of the wines will be available for purchase. Tickets are available online at www.eventbrite.com/e/ ashland-nouveau-celebration-tickets-78090379427. ■

What’s your take? Email MJ Daspit at mdaspit@jeffnet.

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org. For more on this topic, check out her Backstory Blog at mjdaspit.com.

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Consistently the Best! Serving Medford since 1998

Enjoy A Great Lunch and Local Wines

Delicious Italian cuisine created from authentic recipes. All freshly made from bread to sauce. • Sandwiches • Pasta dishes • Calzones

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Café Dejeuner is your destination for excellent food, unique flavors, and a one-of-a-kind environment.

Our outside seating is fully covered-amazing dining anytime of the year on our patio.

Open Monday-Friday from 10:30-2:00 Open Monday-Friday from 10:30-2:00

Have us cater your next event: • Weddings • Corporate Parties • Birthdays • Family Reunions

Reservations Recommended

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Sip & Savor ▪ Spring 2020

Oregon wineries earn bottle placement in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 By PAUL OMUNDSON For The Register-Guard

Wine Spectator’s fun annual countdown late last year proved to be another tour de force for Oregon wine, especially wines from Willamette Valley. The magazine’s highly prized and coveted selection of the best 100 wines in the world for 2019 revealed five Oregon wines making the list. The state of Washington had two. All five Oregon wineries honored are in the Willamette Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area). Four are pinot noirs, the quintessential Willamette Valley wine, and there’s one chardonnay, a variety that’s flourishing here. World-class wines The list is based on wines reviewed throughout 2019 in the magazine. In descending order, Wine Spectator’s Oregon selections are below. Of note, the vibrant wine community of Newberg is home base for four of the wineries: No. 35 Beaux Frères Vineyard and Winery, on the Ribbon Ridge near Newberg, for its 2017 Upper Terrace Pinot Noir; No. 47 Brick House Vineyard, Newberg, for its 2017 “Les Dijonnais” Pinot Noir; No. 58 A to Z Wineworks in Newberg, for its 2018 chardonnay; No. 73 Cristom Vineyards near Salem in the Eola-Amity Hills, for its 2017 Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir; and No. 76 Penner-Ash Wine Cellars in Newberg, for its 2016 pinot noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, Shea Vineyard. You can’t do much better than get on Wine Spectator’s top 100. So, what does it take to be among the very best? Here are some thoughts from Oregon winemakers who made the grade. Cristom Vineyards “There’s nowhere else in the world where terroir plays out as well as in the Willamette Valley,” says Steve Thomson, Eugene resident, formerly with King Estate Winery for 17 years, the last nine as executive vice president. Today he is CEO of Cristom Vineyards, 66 miles north of Eugene in the heart of wine country in the Eola-Amity Hills. In addition to sense of place, or terroir, Thomson says Willamette Valley wines in general distinguish

stone accents that take on richness toward a lingering finish.

themselves by being acid driven and exquisitely balanced, making them consummate restaurant wines that can pair beautifully with a wide range of foods. “Our collective wines from growers and makers throughout the Willamette Valley have created a distinct area brand that’s growing by leaps and bounds internationally,” he says. “It is its own unique animal.” Founded in 1992 by Paileen Gerrie, Cristom Vineyards emphasizes that the best wines are made in the vineyard. Second-generation owner Tom Gerrie now leads tenured winemaker Steve Doerner and vineyard manager/co-winemaker Daniel Estrin in a winemaking style that’s decidedly old world: whole-cluster fermentation, 100% native yeasts, and no filtering. “The 2017 Mt. Jefferson Cuvée Pinot Noir is made with a blend of grapes from each of the estate’s four pinot noir vineyards (65%) and other vineyards in the area (35%), and as a result conveys a rich diversity of place.” Tom explains. “It’s the foundation of our style and our company.” Tasting notes from Wine Spectator: expressive strawberry blossom and raspberry aromas open to elegantly structured cherry and spicy cinnamon flavors that build richness toward refined tannins. Beaux Frères Vineyard At the Beaux Frères Vineyard, located on an 88-acre former pig farm on top of Ribbon Ridge near Newberg, another second-generation winemaker, Mike Etzel, son of founder and president Michael Etzel, makes his mark. He’s doing amazing things with fruit from the higher elevation Upper Terrace Vineyard (nine acres) where grapes for its 2017 Upper Terrace Pinot Noir were grown. After six years as vineyard manager Mike is in the second year of cutting his teeth as winemaker. “We were prepping for slightly higher yields and then we got rains during harvest to slow the ripening down,” he recalls. “That was our saving grace. It resulted in a more balanced profile.” Tasting notes from Wine Spectator: seduces you immediately, with expressive violet and dark raspberry aromas that open to polished and brilliantly structured blueberry, savory anise and tea flavors that take on richness on a long finish.

Penner-Ash Wine Cellars Another distinguished Oregon winemaker on the list is Lynn Penner-Ash, co-owner with her husband, Ron, of Penner-Ash Wine Cellars in Newberg. Her 2016 pinot noir was entirely from Shea Vineyard fruit next door. “We had a feeling the hill had good bones to it,” she says. Penner-Ash is a trailblazer of sorts for women in Oregon wine. She became the first woman hired as a professional winemaker in the state, in 1988, when Rex Hill Vineyards snatched her away from wine lab work in Napa Valley. She and Ron started their own brand in 1998. Along with six other renowned women winemakers in Oregon Lynn helped start a Women in the Room group for females interested in growing and making wine. It’s 110 members strong today. Tasting notes from Wine Spectator: elegant yet dynamic, with violet, raspberry and spiced cinnamon flavors that build richness and structure toward refined tannins.

Brick House Vineyards One of the most interesting stories is that of Doug Tunnell and his Newberg-based Brick House Vineyards and Wine Company. He started the venture in 1990 after an 18-year stint as a CBS foreign correspondent in the Middle East. Doug, a native of Willamette Valley, smiles: “I’ve been a winemaker for the past 30 years. I never thought I’d outdo my longevity record at CBS.” Here he is among the best for his 2016 Brick House Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge Les Dijonnais. It’s all from estate fruit, a barrel selection from lots produced in his Dijon clone blocks. Tasting notes from Wine Spectator: sleek and harmonious, with effortlessly complex violet, raspberry and river

A to Z Wineworks How about applause for Newberg’s A to Z Wineworks? They’re the only one of the five Oregon wineries placing a non-pinot noir on the list, with their delicious example of uncorked, cool-climate chardonnay, vintage 2018. “We work with a number of different vineyards from different regions across the state,” says Anna Welch Prost, associate winemaker. “We have a consistent wine style in mind, but each vintage leaves its own fingerprint. The 2018 was a standout. We knew we had something special in the glass when we finished that blend.” Tasting notes from the wine-making team: This vintage greets with aromas of lemon, lime zest, kumquat, quince, spiced apple, pear, peach, melon, apricot and lemongrass with hints of sage and fresh cut hay. The wine dances on the palate, alive with flavors of citrus fruits, green apple and starfruit, rich, balanced, fleshy and yet precise. There is a grapefruit pith note to the finish, along with a linear minerality that carries through for quite some time after tasting.

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Chardonnay in the shoe department Retailers are increasingly serving alcohol to woo shoppers by Abha Bhattarai

NEW YORK - Walk past the $2,500 studded Saint Laurent boots and $995 Versace sneakers at Nordstrom’s newly minted flagship store, and you’ll end up at its most buzzed-about attraction: the full bar. Shoe Bar, as it’s aptly called, specializes in $17 cocktails with names like Billionaire and Husband Daycare. It sells wine by the glass, half a dozen craft beers, and plates of chicken wings and meatballs. And by 4 p.m. most days, it’s packed. “What better experience is there? It is the most fabulous thing,” said Kathy Miller, 70, of Carefree, Arizona, who recently stopped in for a couple of whiskey sours - and Aquatalia boots. Her friend, Lora Laukitis, 67, was shopping for sneakers. But first: a double shot of tequila. “To attract shoppers these days, you have to do something different and fun,” Miller said. “And, of course, the more you drink, the more you spend.” Across the country, shopping centers, malls and such major chains as Nordstrom, Crate &amp; Barrel, Whole Foods and Giant are increasingly allowing - even encouraging - customers to imbibe while they browse. It’s the latest attempt by stores to offer shoppers an experience they can’t get online, like in-store climbing walls and designer trunk shows but with a much bigger reach: Retailers say customers tend to stay longer and spend more freely

when they’re drinking. “I don’t know why it took us so long to put drinking and shoes together, but it’s a great combination,” chief executive Erik Nordstrom said at the National Retail Federation’s annual conference last month. “Customers at the bar, drinking - it helps sell things.” But public health experts find the trend troubling, even out of touch, given the rise of the “sober curious” culture and hashtag-friendly

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challenges as Dry January. In fact, alcohol consumption is on the decline worldwide, down 1.6% in 2018, according to the International Wines and Spirits Record. “The alcoholic beverage industry has worked hard to create new and novel occasions to drink: ‘It’s Tuesday night, you’re with your girlfriends, so you should be drinking,’” said Judy Grisel, a professor of psychology and neuroscience at Bucknell University in Pennsyl-

vania. “Now the message is that we need to be drinking even when we’re buying food for dinner.” Nearly a century after prohibition ended, alcohol permeates every part of American society. There are boozy brunches and ever-accessible happy hours. Beer and wine are served on planes and boats, at nail salons, barbershops and movie theaters, even the gym. But being able to order a cocktail while running a routine CONTINUED ON PAGE 14

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errand like picking up milk or a pair of jeans, Grisel and others say, takes the trend to a new extreme. “So many people are already struggling with alcohol - 1 in 8 adults in the U.S. is an alcoholic, drinking-related deaths have doubled since 2000 - and this makes it even easier to drink,” said Grisel, author of “Never Enough: The Neuroscience and Experience of Addiction.” “You have to wonder: What’s the intention here? And if it’s just to sell more, that seems like questionable ethics.” But fans say drinking at the store offers a small diversion from otherwise quotidian tasks and is no different from ordering a lunchtime beer or after-work margarita. Just ask Miller, the Nordstrom shopper who once owned a women’s clothing boutique in Scottsdale, 14 Sip & Savor ▪ Spring 2020

Arizona, where she kept a stocked bar. The wine, beer and tequila were mostly served to antsy husbands. “It gave them something to do,” she said. “And after a couple of drinks, they didn’t mind that their wives were spending so much.”

There are draft beers at Lululemon and mezcal-infused cocktails at a Chicago-area Crate & Barrel. Furniture chain RH (formerly Restoration Hardware) allows shoppers to sip wine as they browse and, if they happen to be at the Napa Valley store, upgrade to the $100 tasting in a two-story wine vault. In a way, retail experts say, the emergence of alcohol at national chains is a democratization of what has long been a staple of luxury shopping: a glass of bubbly or Scotch while trying on dresses

or shirts at designer showrooms. Making cocktails available to the masses, they say, is an easy way for bricks-and-mortar retailers to offer an “experience” that sets them apart from their online competitors. It is also lucrative: Gross profit margins for alcoholic drinks - 70 to 80% - are about double those for apparel and groceries, according to consulting firm AlixPartners. “From a marketing perspective, it’s genius,” said Kate Carey, a professor of behavioral and social sciences at Brown University, whose research focuses on alcohol abuse. “Draw people in [with] the novel pairing of drinking alcohol while shopping and then lower their inhibitions as you are presenting them with things to buy.” Shopping while inebriated, retailers say, has taken on new life in an era of e-commerce, where making an impulse purchase is as easy as

tapping a button on your phone. Websites such as eBay and Gilt.com, and shopping channel QVC, have all reported a spike in nighttime purchases that executives say may be alcohol-aided. But there are also signs of a broader backlash against alcohol driven by wellness-seeking Americans. Hashtags such as #DryJanuary and

#SoberSeptember have become popular markers of abstinence, while a growing sober curious movement is encouraging adults to become more deliberate about when, and why, they drink. U.S. beer sales have declined for five straight years, while wine sales recently fell for the first time in 25 years. (Demand for lowand no-alcohol beer, meanwhile, rose nearly 7% last year, according to IWSR.) Restaurants and bars are increasingly offering nonalcoholic alternatives to popular cocktails, in hopes of appealing to those who’d rather abstain. So while selling shoppers a drink or two might help increase sales in the short term, analysts say it might not be the best long-term strategy for ailing retailers, which last year announced a record 9,300 store closures. “It’s a gimmick,” said Mark Cohen, director of retail studies at Columbia Business School. “Handing someone a cocktail gets them to spend more, but it’s not a sustainable way to sell clothes.”

Diana Miller orders beer at Whole Foods Market, champagne at Neiman Marcus, and prosecco with Grand Marnier at Nordstrom. These small indulgences, the Dallas resident says, are among her “absolute favorite things to do.” “It’s, like, ‘Hey, it’s 3 o’clock. I’m going to grab a drink at Whole Foods and do my grocery shopping,’” said Miller, 38, and no relation to Kathy Miller. “I stay longer because I want to savor the drink - and of course I buy more things than I need to.” Once, after a few glasses of sauvignon blanc, she picked up a crown roast of lamb that ended up in the freezer for six months. Another time, she says, she left the Dior counter at Neiman Marcus with “an entire skin-care line for a skin problem I don’t have.” But on the whole, Miller says, the promise of a drink or two is enough to pull her away from her computer and into the store. (Whole Foods is owned by Amazon, whose founder, Jeff Bezos, also owns The Washington Post.) At the Shops at La Cantera, an open-air mall in San Antonio, Texas, guests can sip alcohol while they

peruse the offerings at 90 stores including Sephora, Ann Taylor and Sunglass Hut. The shopping center has a dozen full-service restaurants, as well as a new kiosk between the Z Gallerie and Zara stores that serves wine, beer and frozen margaritas in plastic cups. Brian Schroeder, the property’s senior general manager, said sales have “continued to grow positively for our retailers” since the service was added about a year ago. Shopping centers in Virginia, Colorado and Arizona have similar offerings. “We’re always looking for ways to enhance the guest experience,” Schroeder said, noting that the mall also recently began welcoming dogs. “This is one way to get people to stay longer.” But selling alcohol can be tricky, forcing retailers into a competitive new line of business that requires permits, licenses and, in some places, additional security guards. Retail analysts say that the arrangement raises logistical challenges aside from the obvious risks of red wine dribbling onto an evening gown or designer shoes: Issues range from checking identification cards to cutting off a shopper who may have had too much to drink. The Manhattan Nordstrom, which opened in October, has a bar or restaurant on each of its seven floors, making it one of the chain’s 15 locations with a storewide liquor license. Customers can also place orders with sales staff. (And while executives say the availability of alcohol generally translates to higher sales, a spokeswoman for Nordstrom declined to comment on whether there’s been a corresponding uptick in returns.) Food and drink sales make up nearly 1 in 4 transactions at Nordstrom stores, making it an important and growing part of the Seattle-based retailer’s business, according to David Kim, director of food and beverage. Staffers, he said, are trained “in safe and responsible alcohol service,” which means they check for valid IDs and won’t sell drinks to anyone who seems intoxicated. And though there are some restrictions on exactly where customers can drink - alcoholic beverages are prohibited on the ground floor in New York, for example CONTINUED ON PAGE 17

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Kim said the company is generally unfazed when it comes to a spill or broken glass. “We don’t focus on guarding against mishaps,” he said. “We understand that accidents can happen, but we trust our customers in our stores.”

Danielle Vogel knew she wanted to include a bar at the front of her store when she opened Glen’s Garden Market in Northwest Washington in 2013. She just didn’t expect that it would become the store’s main attraction. “We quickly realized we had to start getting people off of the bar stool and into the grocery store,” she said. She began handing bar patrons a token good for a 10% discount on anything in the store except more booze. So far, she says, the strategy has worked. The neighborhood grocery store has a steady stream of regulars who stop in to drink, shop or do both. Increasingly, she said, customers are carrying their wine or beer with them while they browse the shelves. (Next on her wish list: pint glass holders for the store’s shopping baskets.) “Having a drink takes the chore out of grocery shopping,” she said. And it makes business sense: “After a craft beer or two, a $10 jar of jam seems like a great idea.” Mikki Kendall says she absolutely hates grocery shopping. But sipping wine while she fills her cart at Mariano’s, a Chicago-area supermarket chain, makes it tolerable. “Having a drink while you shop is the adult version eating samples at the grocery store,” the 43-year-old writer said. “You are walking around, enjoying something yummy.” That’s not to say there isn’t an occasional downside. “A glass or two of wine does lead me to the fancy food aisle,” Kendall said. “I sometimes come home with more than my share of fig preserves and prosciutto.” Mariano’s, which is owned by Kroger and has bars at 21 of its 44 stores, is known for its $3 draft beers and $5 mimosas. Shopping carts are

outfitted with cupholders to accommodate multitasking. “The bar is full by 4 o’clock,” said spokeswoman Amanda Puck. “People come in to drink, to hang out and, oh, buy groceries on their way out.” Mariano’s has a “glass retrieval system” for the wine and beer empties that materialize along store shelves and at checkout lines, she said. People otherwise, “tend to be responsible.” Nick Coffeen was introduced to boozy shopping at a Mariano’s opening party a few years ago, when he and a few friends strolled through the aisles with vodka-La Croix cocktails. It wasn’t long before they began thinking of the supermarket as a place to hang out, drink and buy an ill-advised cookie cake - or three. “It’s really amplified the whole shopping experience,” said Coffeen, 27, who works for a software startup. “Waiting in line is much more enjoyable when you’ve had a couple of rosés or White Claws.”

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Sip & Savor ▪ Spring 2020

PERA TED

Hotels, pastry chefs and coffee chains can soon start offering guests customized 3-D printed chocolate thanks to a little-known Swiss chocolatier. Barry Callebaut, the behindthe-scenes producer of a quarter of the world’s chocolate, is giving gourmet clients access to a method of printing personalized designs en masse, the Zurich-based company said in a statement Friday. The technology will first be available through the company’s Mona Lisa brand, which makes chocolate decorations, sprinkles and figurines.

Business clients can come up with their own designs, shapes and sizes, with the ﬁnal creations ﬁt for use in desserts, confectionery, hot drinks and pastries. After experimenting with 3-D printing chocolate for years,

Barry Callebaut has figured out a way for the printer to handle the tempering of the chocolate, a process that requires constant movement at specific temperatures and which could take as long as an hour in the past. Now, Barry Callebaut’s printers can print thousands of pieces in a much shorter time. The move comes as the chocolate industry faces meager growth prospects. Barry Callebaut said last month that the global market stagnated in the three months through No-

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vember. Lindt & Spruengli has said it plans to close 50 stores in the U.S. Business clients can come up with their own designs, shapes and sizes, with the final creations fit for use in desserts, confectionery, hot drinks and pastries. That reflects the current trend of personalization, consumers wanting to post pictures on Instagram, as well as demand for premium products, Pablo Perversi, Barry Callebaut’s head of innovation,

said in a phone interview. “The important thing is this is not a one-off type of printing like in the past,” he said. “We can produce at scale.” The Zurich-based company makes chocolate for clients such as Nestle, Unilever and Hershey, whose names then appear on the labels. Chocolate lovers looking for more personalized chocolate in stores will have to wait a few years, though. Barry Callebaut will first work with gourmet clients before entering the next phase with manufacturers, Perversi said. Dutch hotel chain Van der Valk will be its first customer. Ultimately, consumers may even have 3-D chocolate printers next to their coffee machines in their kitchens. “The idea of having a chocolate-printing machine at home with capsules that allow you to do something is a great idea,” Perversi said. “We haven’t gone as far as that just yet, but there are opportunities for us to do that and we’ll explore them.” ■

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A glut of hangover remedies crowd the Internet. Do any of them work? by Laura Reiley

was me seeping B vitamins out of my pores.

In the absence of diligent watchdogging on the part of the Food and Drug Administration, the hangover remedy space is pervaded with a “buyer beware” skepticism. Which ones work, and which ones are snake oil? That’s where I come in. I tested the top sellers one at a time, calibrating my booze intake to precisely what will begin to make me regret my choices the next day (three big glasses of red wine, and the self-flagellating and bleariness set in). While my efforts were hardly scientific, I did it in the name of fun (and I’m certainly not advocating excessive drinking). Here’s what I found, in descending order of efficacy.

DrinkAde (a six-pack for about $24.99): This one changed its name from Never Too Hungover to DrinkAde in 2018 and offers a Prevention 3.4-ounce lemony drink you consume before drinking, and a berry-flavored (let’s just say purple-flavored) Boost drink with B vitamins and a hit of caffeine you take the next day. The Boost’s taste will get your attention. It’s like Robitussin had a love child with colonoscopy prep drink. It made me shudder, and while the caffeine wallop made my heart race, the red wine won on this one.

Morning Recovery (about $35 for six 3.4-ounce bottles): This is the media darling. Consume the full bottle before your first drink, between drinks or up to one hour after your last drink. I drank it before, and the taste was pleasantly lemony, not viscous, salty or dauntingly large. This was the only one for which I thought, “Wow, I feel great” the next morning, the red wine failing even a glancing blow. Raisin tree extract for the win. Blowfish (12 tablets for about $12): Pop two effervescent tablets the next morning in a tall glass of water and chugalug. Very reminiscent of Alka-Seltzer, it’s lemony and a little salty, a bit like a fizzy sports drink. It worked swiftly to dispel a

Sip & Savor ▪ Spring 2020

Rebound (a sleeve of six patches for $7.99): This is a small, white, square patch one applied an hour before drinking, preferably on a body part with little hair (it comes with a hilarious cartoon diagram of sausage-looking fingers attempting to peel off the patch and apply). The major ingredients are B-12 and other B vitamins, raisin tree extract, turmeric and milk thistle. After wearing mine for eight hours and feeling no discernible benefit, I painstakingly peeled it off my arm, leaving a perfect red square of angry epidermis to ponder as I nursed my hangover. ■

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Mothers are drinking more than ever, but the sober-curious movement challenges ‘wine mom’ culture by Caitlin Gibson

The turning point came at an evening soiree in the middle of December, when Mai Trinh spotted a friend’s luminous face amid a crowd of cocktail-quaffing partygoers. “She stood out - she looked absolutely radiant,” recalls Trinh, 44, a corporate wellness consultant and mom of three in Alexandria, Virginia. “So I asked her, ‘What’s your secret, what are you doing?’” The secret, it turned out, was what she wasn’t doing: Trinh’s friend had decided to temporarily bail on booze, after signing up for an alcohol-free challenge through an online program. It wasn’t the first time Trinh, who then considered herself an occasional social drinker, had heard of the burgeoning “sober-curious” movement, which touts the appeal of an alcohol-free lifestyle - separating sobriety from the stigma of addiction and presenting it instead as pathway to a healthier existence for anyone who wants to drink less, or not at all. Unsettled by neighborhood moms showing up to the playground with coolers of

champagne, Trinh had clicked through some of the sober-curious literature online, and read the testimonials of converts who embraced sobriety (or, at least, moderation) and trumpeted the results: better sleep. Better skin. A clearer head. A calmer vibe. Her friend’s endorsement - and one final, fuzzy-headed morning after a night out with fellow mom friends that holiday season - sealed the deal. Trinh rang in the New Year sober, and hasn’t had a drink in the six months since. “It’s been life-changing,” she says. “My kids say I’m really mellow, and I’m not a mellow person.” For years, alcohol has steadily seeped into the social fabric of motherhood, with pitchers of mimosas at morning playdates, Thermoses of “mommy juice” on the soccer field sidelines and Facebook feeds filled with stylized memes declaring it’s not really drinking alone if your kids are home. Studies show that women - especially women in their 30s and 40s - are drinking more than ever before. Now, with more Americans embracing wellness as an exCONTINUED ON PAGE 26

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istential ideal - replacing Instagram pictures of brimming wineglasses with photos of artisanal, lime-garnished mocktails - some moms say they feel more

empowered to go against the grain and pass on the booze and less isolated in their choice to abstain. But can an aspirational, hashtaggable lifestyle trend really dry out the alcohol-saturated

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“wine-mom” culture? Harmony Hobbs, 39, a mom of three in Baton Rouge, and creator of the popular blog Modern Mommy Madness, sees a shift already underway. As a blogger who used to make and share wine-mom memes, she’s had a front-row seat to the culture around alcohol and motherhood: “I built my following writing about how hard being a mom is,” she says, “and all I did was joke about drinking.” But drinking wasn’t actually a joke for her - it was part of her daily life, and it was clearly affecting her behavior, Hobbs says. She’d long resisted acknowledging her dependency, but after loved ones held an intervention two years ago, she quit alcohol cold turkey. And she felt an obligation to be forthcoming about her experience with her online followers. “I felt like I had all these peo-

ple who read my work, and there was no way to stop drinking and not be honest about it. I’d backed myself into a corner,” she says. “I expected it to ruin my reputation, but it didn’t. It resonated with a lot of women.” That was 2017 - before British journalist Ruby Warrington published her trend-launching book, “Sober Curious: The Blissful Sleep, Greater Focus, Limitless Presence, and Deep Connection Awaiting Us All on the Other Side of Alcohol,” before an abundance of Facebook groups and yoga retreats and alcohol-free bars catered to those who wanted a break from boozing. It was before celebrity moms such as model Chrissy Teigen and actress Busy Philipps added their voices to the chorus of those questioning wine-mom culture: “You go to a preschool birthday party at 10 a.m. and it’s like, ‘Does anyone want a wine cooler?’ “ Philipps told Parents magazine last year. “Um, no, girlfriend. I want to make sure my daughter doesn’t fall off this play structure. It’s such a weird thing!” Women who feel this way have always been out there, says Jaime Roche, 42, a sober-curious mom of two in New Jersey who hasn’t had a drink since January. “Since I’ve come out as sober curious, a lot of moms who don’t really talk about it are saying, ‘Oh yeah, me, too, I don’t drink either,’ “ Roche says. “The more chic it becomes, the more people see it as cool and acceptable, you’ll see more moms saying, ‘You know what, that’s the way I want to go.’ “ Roche says she’s over winemom culture. But it’s still all over her Facebook feed. “When you back away from

Now, with more Americans embracing wellness as an existential ideal... some moms say they feel more empoered to go against the grain and pass on the booze, and less isolated in their choice to abstain.

drinking, you see even more how prevalent it is - I’m constantly getting posts on Facebook that say, you know, ‘I need a drink, my kids are driving me crazy,’ “ she says. “Before I stopped drinking, I didn’t really think about it. But now I see how dangerous it is.” All those social media posts and pictures and memes do have an impact, says Katherine Keyes, an associate professor of epidemiology at Columbia University who has researched alcohol use among women. “Based on what we know about the role of norms in maintaining behavior, it’s not surprising that all the sharing and liking and retweeting would help solidify an alcohol culture,” she says. But that’s also exactly why the sober-curious movement, with its growing visibility on social media, could potentially turn the tide, she adds. Sobriety has long been dogged by stigma - if you don’t drink, and you’re not visibly pregnant, you must have a problem - but the sober-curious movement aims to rebrand what it means to abstain from alcohol: It’s chic, it’s savvy, a health-driven lifestyle choice marketed with clever messaging and Instagram-worthy aesthetics. “By creating a new social media pattern that’s about different alcohol practices, with the message that it’s cool to be sober, I wouldn’t be surprised if it did have an effect,” Keyes says. “Science would indicate that if there’s enough of a groundswell for that kind of culture, then the culture can change.” But Keyes also wants to emphasize a particular point: While drinking is clearly on the rise with modern moms, it’s even more prevalent among women who don’t have children. And focusing concern on moms in particular, she says, runs the risk of perpetuating certain patriarchal stereotypes. “Risky drinking practices are harmful for everyone,” Keyes says. “This is one more way in

which motherhood is sanctified - the idea that these women especially shouldn’t be drinking because they’re taking care of young children.” Julia Hunter, 37, a mom of two in New Jersey, also worries about this. She thinks it’s great for moms to quit drinking if they choose, but - as someone who enjoys wine and posts about it

want someone who is saying those things, so you don’t feel so alone.” Why do moms feel so alone in the first place? That’s what Lindsey Jones-Renaud, 37, a mom of two in the District of Columbia, wishes more people would focus on. The sober-curious movement “needs to be careful not to fall

The sober-curious movement aims to rebrand what it means to abstain from alcohol: It’s chic, it’s savvy, a health-driven lifestyle choice marketed with clever messaging and Instagram-worthy aesthetics. on social media - she sees all the “wine o’clock” memes as less a literal instruction (go drink, right now) than a symbol of solidarity (long day, amirite?). “To me, it is a signal that you’re not the perfect, aspirational mom on Pinterest,” she says. “It means you get the realness of motherhood, the tough parts of it. And I think you

into the trap of mom-shaming,” she says. “The underlying issue is our patriarchal society that does not support parents, and especially moms. I understand the problems and the risks that come with wine culture, so if sober curious works for some people, that’s great - but if it’s taking away one of the few things that other moms

have to find a little moment of joy, that’s a problem, too.” No mom wants to feel alientated or judged, Trinh knows: neither the mom who pours herself a glass of cabernet, nor the mom who politely declines the cocktail tray. When Trinh goes to parties these days, she accounts for everyone’s needs. “I bring a bottle of wine, and I bring grape juice for myself,” she says. “If I came without a bottle of wine, I think people would feel uncomfortable - they’d feel like I’m judging them.” So, she pours her grape juice in a wine glass - “it totally looks just like Bordeaux,” she says and shows her friends that she can still be bubbly even if she’s not buzzed. If she’s open and nonjudgmental about not drinking, she says, other moms might even ask her about the experience, and she can tell them how happy she’s been. “The sober-curious movement is so refreshing, because I’ve put a pause on alcohol before, but it just felt really, really lonely,” she says. “Now, I’m loud and proud.”■

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The right diet can be the right Rx for many patients by Dhruv Khullar

Special To The Washington Post

Congestive heart failure is a disease notoriously difficult to treat. The condition, which affects more than 6 million Americans, results from the heart’s inability to pump blood to the rest of the body, leading to fluid buildup in the lungs. The mainstay of treatment is medication that removes the excess fluid, but striking the right balance is challenging and often thrown off by something as simple as the wrong meal. (Heart failure hospitalizations tend to spike after major holidays.) Too much fluid and patients are gasping for air. Too little, they’re dehydrated and lightheaded. Either way, they’re back in the hospital. As a physician who cares for hundreds of patients with heart failure every year, I’m frequently humbled when, despite my best efforts, patients shuttle between hospital and home. I track the emergence of new drugs and telemedicine programs that promise to break the cycle, but recent research suggests that doctors like me should consider a tastier and potentially more cost-effective treatment: food. Despite widespread recognition that diet is a primary driver of illness in the United States - two-thirds of Americans are overweight and obesity-related illnesses consume nearly 10 percent of U.S. gross domestic

product - our health-care system hasn’t traditionally done enough to intervene. Too often, nutrition counseling at the doctor’s office has consisted of little more than advice to eat less and move more - followed by a physician offering a stern look and higher dose of insulin at the next visit. But that’s starting to change amid mounting evidence that crafting the right diet for patients can improve outcomes and reduce costs. Consider a recent program in Massachusetts designed to support the nutritional needs of low-income patients with heart failure and other conditions for which diet plays an important role, such as diabetes, kidney disease and HIV. Each week, an organization called Community Servings delivers 10 ready-to-eat meals to patients’ homes, each tailored

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to individual patients’ medical needs by a registered dietitian. A patient with diabetes might receive dishes fit for Goldilocks with just enough carbs, while one with cancer gets high-protein foods, and a patient with kidney problems gets meals low in potassium and salt. A study last year found that patients who received such medically tailored meals experienced 50 percent fewer hospitalizations and 72 percent fewer admissions to skilled nursing facilities. Overall, the program was associated with a 16 percent reduction in health-care costs. Last year, Community Servings delivered more than a half-million meals to 2,300 patients, and the organization often solicits recipes from patients and families to ensure the food is to their liking. “Putting the right meal together

can be really complicated,” said Seth A. Berkowitz, the study’s lead author and an assistant professor at UNC School of Medicine. “If you have heart failure or kidney disease, if you’re living with a disability and it’s hard to go out and get food, these meals can help make sure you get the nutrition you need.” In New York, where I practice, low-income patients with high blood pressure can now get a prescription for fruits and vegetables through the “Pharmacy to Farm” program. Patients who get their medications at select pharmacies are eligible for “Health Bucks,” which lets them buy produce at farmers markets across the city. But these local efforts come at a time the federal government is moving to substantially restrict eligibility for food stamps and other nutrition support programs. While the new regulations are tied up in the courts, they could potentially worsen food security for millions of Americans if ultimately implemented. It was more than 2,000 years ago that Hippocrates reportedly counseled patients to “let food be thy medicine.” Since then, we’ve made profound advances in diagnosis and treatment, but have too often overlooked this fundamental component of health. But increasingly, evidence supports the notion that food is indeed medicine - and it’s time we act like it. ■

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Yes, you already own a slow cooker, and it’s called your oven degrees instead of 175 will not be catastrophic as long as you account for the fact that the cook time may be less. A probe or instant-read thermometer is a useful tool to have.

by Becky Krystal

After I recently published a story that broke down whether you should buy a slow cooker or a newfangled pressure-cooking multicooker (which you can also use to slow cook), I heard from one reader who reminded me that I should have mentioned one very simple alternative: the oven. It’s a fair point. While slow cookers have been helping us cook low and, well, slow for several decades, people have long been using ovens (electric or wood-burning), hearths and even pits in the ground to prepare food over many hours. There are plenty of reasons for it - flavor, texture, convenience and, such as with Jews observing sabbath, religion. Really, though, what’s more important than the time involved is the temperature, says Andrew Schloss, author of “Cooking Slow: Recipes for Slowing Down and Cooking More.” Cooking at a low temperature can give you foolproof, magnificent food that would be harder or impossible to obtain at a higher temperature. Here’s what you need to know.

The principles. Cooking at a low temperature makes it less likely that you will overcook your food. “By keeping the temperature moderate,” Schloss writes, “proteins firm more gently, making finished meats more tender, custards softer, fish moister and casseroles creamier.” In essence, that’s because the oven temperature is below or not too far above the target temperature of what you’re cooking. With everything happening at what is basically a culinary snail’s pace, you have a lot more wiggle room - up to an hour or two, according to Schloss. There’s less moisture

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loss, happening at a slower rate, meaning meats especially come out more tender. The temperature. Most ovens bottom out at around 170 degrees these days, Schloss says. Read your manual and look at the various settings. My home oven’s “warm” setting, for example is 170 degrees. Schloss recommends verifying your oven’s accuracy by setting it to 200 degrees and checking it with an oven thermometer. If your oven struggles to get very low, just know that the technique has enough flexibility that cooking at, say, 200

The methods. Braising, roasting and baking are the slow-cooking methods that require the least in the way of equipment or effort. If you have a Dutch oven and cast-iron skillet, you’re well on your way to slow-cooking success. A roasting pan can be useful, too. Essentially, braising involves cooking food - meat, seafood or vegetables - in a sealed environment with some liquid. As it’s heated, the braising liquid releases steam. The steam hits the underside of the pot lid, condenses and falls back onto the main ingredient (meat or poultry for the purposes of this guide). So you get a constant cycle that causes the flavors of the liquid and the meat to meld, with an especially tender result by the end of cooking. Cookbook author Molly Stevens (“All About Braising”) likes to aim for a temperature range of 275 to 300 degrees when braising, but you can go even lower to draw things out. As Schloss CONTINUED ON PAGE 34

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explains, food in liquid cannot get hotter than 212 degrees, a.k.a. the boiling point of water. “In slow braising and simmering, the temperatures are kept far below a boil, so, for example, a brisket or pork shoulder simmering at 160 to 180 degrees . . . can cook all day without losing moisture and without overcooking - the temperature of the liquid never gets hotter than you want the meat to be when it is done,” he writes. “Braising or simmering tougher cuts of muscled meats at these lower temperatures produces far more tender results than traditional braising techniques.” Roasting and baking are, of course, different in that you need to encourage the loss of some moisture rather than trap it. It’s a balancing act, keeping as much moisture as you can in the food while limiting it in the environment, Schloss says. Lower temperatures can help accomplish that by cooking off just enough moisture to cook food and make it taste good “when things are dehydrated, you have concentration of flavor” - without the more rapid evaporation that happens at higher temperatures. The difference from slow cookers. Slow cookers allow for very little evaporation in a sealed environment, Schloss says. Compared to food roasting uncovered in an oven or even in a closed Dutch oven that allows for some of the water to cook off on the under-

side of a hot metal lid, there’s a lot of potential for liquid to hang around - great for some dishes, such as oatmeal or meats you want to be stewy, but not for others. What to cook. Meat, especially large cuts, benefits the most from oven slow cooking. Because moisture loss is minimal, it can help to brown the meat first, either on the stove top or in a hot oven that you then significantly drop for the rest of the cook time. For example, Schloss’s Extremely Slow-Roasted Turkey Breast, a reader favorite from The Washington Post archives, starts with a 15-minute roast at 450 degrees followed by an 8- to 9-hour stint at 175 degrees. Slow roasting can be especially effective for meats that have a decent amount of fat, Schloss says.

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But you can do leaner meats, too, especially in a moist setting. Another category of food that Schloss likes to bake at a low temperature: Custards. They set at a range that maxes out at 180 degrees (any hotter and they can curdle or scramble), which is why many recipes for such custard-based fare as cheesecakes and creme brulee call for using a water bath (or Bain-Marie) to provide moisture for the environment and keep the mix from boiling and/or cracking. When baked at a temperature well below boiling and at or near the setting point, the result is ultra-silky, smooth custards. Baked beans are another natural candidate for slow cooking, and they’ll emerge from the oven tender and creamy. Safety. Slow cooking can be especially

convenient when done overnight. “If your oven hasn’t burst into flames while you’re awake,” it’s unlikely it will when you’re asleep, Schloss says. As always, check to make sure your smoke alarms are in working order. That said, if you’re uncomfortable with leaving your oven on while you sleep, you can accomplish slow cooking over the course of an afternoon or even a day at home. On the food safety front, Schloss says that harmful bacteria cannot penetrate past the exterior of whole cuts cooked for a long period of time. That’s where browning can come in handy, to eliminate the bacteria before slow cooking. Salting and then refrigerating meat can help, too. Schloss cautions against slow cooking ground meats unless they are heavily salted (such as in sausages) or browned all the way through. ■

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What to do with leftover wine? By Dave McIntyre

Special To The Washington Post

“Can we do something about these bottles?” My wife asks me this, with implied irritation, at least once a week. The question is usually punctuated by the sound of bottles sliding across a granite countertop and clinking loudly together. I bristle at the question. There’s a section of our counter that seems to organically collect partially emptied wine bottles, the detritus of my tastings as I look for five wines to recommend each week. Some have a cork stuffed back in the bottle, or a screw cap re-affixed. Others are closed with rubber stoppers, pumped free of air to protect the wine. A few may have glass tops plucked from

Sip & Savor ▪ Spring 2020

Relax the collection in my kitchen drawer, offering an imperfect seal against oxidation. And some are just left open, because what the heck. There are still more in the refrigerator door, and of course, the instant rejects that were emptied into the sink and tossed unceremoniously into the recycling bin. All this has left me a bit jaded to the question of what to do with leftover wine, but it also has given me a more relaxed perspective: Don’t worry about

it. Your wine will be fine, for a few days, at least. Almost everyone knows that wine will turn to vinegar with exposure to oxygen. That is true, eventually. But the process does not happen quickly. Good, young wine will even improve with exposure to air - “Let it breathe” - and may taste better the second or third day after you open it. Here are several ways to preserve your opened wine, including special gizmos you can

buy, with a discussion of their advantages and pitfalls. The simplest thing to do is shove the cork back in the bottle as far as you can (or refasten the screw cap) and leave the wine on the counter. A re-corked wine should be fine for a day or two, or three. I have found screw caps can keep good wine fresh for weeks, even without refrigeration. That said, the refrigerator is always a good idea, for white or red wines. Cold slows oxidation. Disadvantages: You’ll need to let reds warm up a bit the next day, and the bottles will need to stand up in the door of your fridge - a resealed cork may not be a total seal to prevent leakage if you lay the bottle on its side. There are numerous gadgets

to avoid oxidation. The Vacu Vin is a pump that supposedly sucks oxygen out of the bottle, leaving a vacuum over the wine until you release the rubber stopper. The pump and two stoppers cost about $13 and last forever, assuming you don’t lose the stoppers. I’ve always had good luck with this - even after a few weeks, squeezing the stopper releases a reassuring “poof” as the vacuum is broken. The Vacu Vin has its skeptics, though, who don’t believe the pump actually protects the wine. Wine collectors have become infatuated with the Coravin, a device designed to let us enjoy a glass of wine without removing the cork from the bottle. The wine is extracted through a

needle that punctures the cork and then inserts argon gas to protect the remaining wines, for months if not longer, because the cork’s seal has not been broken. The Coravin debuted at about $300 a few years ago, but there are models now online for about $150. You will need to buy replacement argon cartridges, so there’s a recurring investment. Coravin does have a good - if still short - track record on preserving wine remaining in the bottle. Savino (about $30 online) is a carafe designed to preserve your red or white wine from oxygen over several days. A floating stopper protects the wine from at least most of the oxygen in the carafe, while a cap creates a good seal against outside air. I’ve found a quality wine will stay fresh for several days in a Savino, longer than just leaving it re-corked in the bottle. The Savino also fits more conveniently in the

door of your fridge. If you like to start your evening with a glass of champagne or other bubbly, you can stretch that bottle with a champagne stopper, available at most wine stores or online for anywhere from $6 to more than $20, depending on how fancy they are. You shove the stopper on the top of the bottle and clamp two wings around the bottle neck to hold the seal. Pop up the wings and there’s a pop almost as satisfying as when you twisted the cork out of the bottle the first time. The goal is to protect your wine from spoilage, so it can live to let you drink another day. And if all you want is to save some wine for tomorrow, often the simplest solutions are the best. McIntyre blogs at dmwineline. com. On Twitter: @dmwine.

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The hot toddy

It won’t cure you, but you’ll feel better. Here is why some call it the chicken soup of the cocktail bar. By Zak Stambor Chicago Tribune

Last winter I had a dreadful cold. The type of cold that seems to never end. The type of cold where your body aches, your head throbs, you can’t ever seem to rid your nose of mucus and a restful night of sleep seems impossible. The type of cold where leaving the house is the last thing you’d ever want to do. Nevertheless, I dragged myself to the pharmacy down the street and bought just about any overthe-counter remedy I could find. Nothing seemed to work except the passage of time. When I returned to work a few days later, a colleague asked how I was feeling. “Not good, but much better than I was,” I replied. “Next time, try a hot toddy,” he said.

“Isn’t that an old wives’ tale?” I asked. “Try it,” he said. The hot toddy _ the simple hot cocktail consisting of hot water, honey, lemon and brown liquor _ like chicken soup, has long been touted as a remedy for the common cold. But when I’m feeling awful, alcohol is the last thing I want to consume. That’s why I had never tried a hot toddy when feeling under the weather _ until I got another cold a few months later. Before I had another restless night, I decided to give the hot toddy a try. I pulled out a mug, poured in 2 ounces of bourbon, a tablespoon of honey and 2 teaspoons of lemon juice, then topped with a quarter cup of hot water and stirred. My skepticism quickly faded. It seemed to work better than any of the over-the-counter products I had tried before. I slept through the night. While it was no cure, it temporarily relieved my symptoms, which may make some sense,

HOT TODDY Makes: 1 drink 1 ounce brown spirit (I prefer bourbon) 1 tablespoon honey 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 cup hot water Pour ingredients in a mug and stir until the honey dissolves.

says Donald Hensrud, a physician in internal medicine who also serves as an associate professor of nutrition and preventive medicine at the Mayo Clinic College of Medicine and Science. After all, even though there are few “good studies” on the hot toddy, if you look at the individual elements you can understand why the cocktail offers some relief. “The warmth of the drink may provide symptomatic comfort,” he says. That explains the effectiveness of other traditional remedies that also provide fluids, such as chicken soup, which also supplies nutrients, and tea, which also contains antioxidants. Then there’s hot lemon water with honey, which has long been used to soothe a sore throat and to act as a cough suppressant. One study, which gave children who had upper respiratory tract infections and were at least 2 years old up to 2 teaspoons of honey at bedtime, found that the honey seemed to improve sleep and reduce nighttime coughing. In fact, it was just about as effective as the common cough suppressant ingredient dextromethorphan that’s found in Robitussin.

While some have suggested the alcohol has medicinal benefits _ such as its ability to fight infection _ Hensrud is skeptical, noting that it can actually cause some congestion and may affect immune function. But those negative effects may not matter in limited amounts. And there may actually be another effect: Like Nyquil, it can help you get to sleep. And rest, along with fluids, are the key ingredients to cold relief. ■ ©2020 Chicago Tribune Visit the Chicago Tribune at www. chicagotribune.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC. Spring 2020 ▪ Sip & Savor

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