Southern Tides May 2020 by Southern Tides Magazine

Southern Tides all about the water

May 2020

The 2nd Annual Paddling Issue

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Southern Tides

In the Tides

all about the water

Issue No. 57 / May 2020

CREW Publisher/Editor Amy Thurman

7 Editor's Note

amy@southerntidesmagazine.com

The Bitter End Columnist Captain J. Gary "Gator" Hill

9 Around the Reef

theoriginalcaptaingator@gmail.com

11 Kayak Fishing

Around the Reef Columnist Vanly Dang for Michelle Riley

13 Basic Paddling Skills

michelle.riley@noaa.gov

15 Self-Rescue: A Primer

Consulting Naturalist John "Crawfish" Crawford

16 Paddling Ebenezer

crawfish@uga.edu

Contributing Writers Gordon Black American Canoe Association Dr. Bruce Gabrielson National Surf Schools & Instructors Association Marsh Henson Sea Kayak Georgia Cathy Liberatori East Coast Paddleboarding Dave Mewborn Savannah Riverkeeper Becky Molina American Canoe Association Cathy Sakas Tybee Island Marine Science Center Foundation Brian Sanford Georgia Kayak Fishing Jordan Scholl Contributing Photographer

20 Kayaking Coastal Georgia gia 23 Best Paddling Practices 24 Exploring Augustine Creekk 26 Why Choose SUP 28 Paddlesport Report 30 The Bitter End

Copyright ÂŠ 2015-2020 All content herein is copyright protected and may not be reproduced in whole or part without express written permission. Southern Tides is a free magazine, published monthly, and can be found at multiple locations from St. Marys, Ga., to Beaufort, S.C.

(912) 484-3611 info@southerntidesmagazine.com www.SouthernTidesMagazine.com Visit us on social media: www.issuu.com/SouthernTidesMagazine.com Facebook.com/southern-tides-magazine Instagram @southerntides_mag Southern Tides Magazine is printed by Walton Press, Monroe, Ga.

About the Cover:

Kayak Fishing: The last fishing frontier. See article on page 11 on this fun paddling sport. Photo by Brian Sanford, Georgia Kayak Fishing

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May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

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You’re at eye-level with nature and can see and experience a great many memorable moments. I led a small group of women kayaking out of Butterbean Beach some years ago. As we wound our way through a creek near low tide, the wildlife was out in force. Egrets and herons were everywhere you looked, and the reason became obvious when shrimp started jumping all around us, even landing in our boats. One of the women started screaming and the others were laughing and trying to catch them, making jokes about how many we needed for lunch. I managed to get the shrimp out of scared lady’s boat and get her laughing again. When we got back to the beach, I overheard her laughing with her husband on the phone about how she’d "fended off a herd of killer shrimp" and was alive to tell the story! You can paddle anywhere your skill level allows. You can take your boat anywhere you can drive, and you can rent anywhere else. You can paddle in freshwater lakes, in tidal creeks and streams, on the beach front, or in freshwater rivers and creeks – anywhere there’s water deep enough to support your boat or board. You do need to balance your skill level with the conditions – paddling a freshwater lake with no tides or currents does not prepare you to paddle whitewater rapids or heavy surf. But you can learn to do those more extreme sports easily enough. There are countless activities you can enjoy with your boat or board. You can join a paddleboard yoga class, you can fish, you can take your dog along for company, you can explore creeks and rivers and learn the waters without risk of damaging your prop, you can plan a vacation based on paddling a destination, such as paddling sections of the Georgia coast, or down one of our watersheds, or the Okefenokee Swamp. Or go further afield and visit the Everglades, the Florida Keys, Havasu Creek in Arizona, the Great Lakes, the Colorado River, or even Hawaii or the Bahamas. This relatively inexpensive way of getting on the water can open up a whole new world to you. Give it a try! I hope you enjoy this issue. We’re once again publishing digitally, but we’ll be printing the June issue no matter what. Please share this issue and the website with others and visit our advertisers online – all have links.

Editor’s Note Give Paddling a Try

ost of us can agree, there’s something about being out there on the water that feeds the soul. Land-based stress seems farther away, it’s quieter and more peaceful than most anywhere off the water. The senses can take the reigns normally held by the brain and you can feel the sun and breeze on your skin, smell the salt marsh, hear birds and the sounds of water, and see – actually notice – the world around you, filled with creatures, color and something new in every direction. While many people can and do find those things in larger boats, myself included, I would encourage everyone to give paddling a try. Whether you choose a kayak, a canoe or a paddleboard, give it a shot. It costs very little to try – you can rent any of these craft at almost any water access point on the coast for a fairly modest fee, and you can even get a lesson if you’re not certain what to do. In fact, some training and knowing what you're doing will actually increase your enjoyment. When you’ve decided which method suits your abilities and comfort levels, the purchase price for a canoe, kayak or board can be as low as a couple hundred dollars or as much as you’d like to spend. After purchasing your boat or board and gear, there’s little but enjoyment ahead of you – it costs nothing to put it in the water, no fuel to operate, no dockage or storage or hauling fees. Just you and the water. In addition to being affordable, there are other benefits to paddling. It’s a good upper body workout, but still easy enough for most anyone. Remember that altering muscle groups helps tremendously – if your arms are getting tired, changing your grip or stroke helps. You can also stretch your legs periodically and there are supports available for people with low-back pain.

See you out there!

Amy Thurman

Editor in Chief amy@southerntidesmagazine.com

On long paddles, moving your legs around , adjusting your grip, and even simple stretches can help.

May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

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Around theReef By Vanly Dang Communications Intern Gray’s Reef National Marine Sanctuary

ound is a prime factor in the lives of marine animals everywhere – and Gray’s Reef National Marine Sanctuary is no exception. Gray’s Reef is considered nearshore; it’s located 19 miles off the coast of Georgia. The combination of warm, tropical water from the south, cool water from the north, and temperate currents from the Gulf Stream give the sanctuary unique characteristics attractive to many species of mobile fauna – animals that move around and through the sanctuary. Animals come to Gray’s Reef in search of food or mates, as part of their natural migration patterns, or for various other reasons. Tracking these animals can give us valuable insight into their habits and our understanding of the ocean, as well as how Gray’s Reef is connected to the ocean as a whole. We can learn more by using acoustic telemetry. Acoustic telemetry is a tool for monitoring the movement of marine animals. Instruments provide researchers information that can show not only patterns of movement, but also patterns of eating, sleeping, and interaction. The process begins when scientists place small transmitters inside or on chosen animals. To complement the transmitters, they place receivers underwater. Animals that have been tagged by Gray’s Reef scientists or by others are recorded whenever they pass by a receiver. This is called a “ping’ and sometimes, scientists are surprised by the animals that ping at Gray’s Reef. Kimberly Roberson, the research coordinator at GRNMS, worked on the recently issued Decade of Detections report, which documents discoveries made using acoustic telemetry at Gray’s Reef. She believes acoustic telemetry has been useful, especially when combined with underwater microphones, or hydrophones. When coupled next to the acoustic instruments that identify tagged animals through their “pings,” the hydrophones enable us to hear what the tagged animals sound like. When there are no

An acoustic receiver detects tagged fish that swim near the ledge. Photo by Steve Lonhart for NOAA in collaboration with The Ocean Agency

tagged animals nearby, the hydrophones record overall sound in the sanctuary, creating a record of what Gray’s Reef sounds like over time. “Acoustic technology has been around for a long time, but using it underwater is a little newer,” says Roberson. “It’s been pretty influential in observing animals without disturbing them. Removing ourselves from the space lets us see their natural movement.” The absence of human observers also results in more accurate data collection on animal behavior. Of particular interest to scientists are the “transient individuals,” or animals tagged by researchers outside of Gray’s Reef, that have been recorded. “Gray’s Reef is an interesting place,” said Roberson, referring to the variety of species the reef attracts. The hydrophones and acoustic telemetry instruments have given researchers insight into many species, including black sea bass, Atlantic sturgeon, loggerhead sea turtles, Atlantic bluefin tuna, and 18 species of sharks, such as the hammerhead shark. While the idea is still being developed, Roberson and others theorize that Gray’s Reef may serve as a “corridor” for marine migration despite its relatively narrow size. “The theory is beginning to show potential,” Roberson believes. The reach of the reef reflects the collaboration between Roberson and more than 30 other scientists to document the growing wealth of information in the ocean. She is currently working with black sea bass specifically to see how they react to sound and their movements as a result of sound. “Acoustic technology is a fantastic and creative way to see how organisms move through time and space,” says Roberson. Noting how animals react to various stimuli is an experiment as old as science itself. Scientists at other national marine sanctuaries are also conducting sound research. “Sound travels much more efficiently than light underwater, so aquatic animals rely heavily on their ability to hear,” says Dr. Leila Hatch, a marine ecologist at Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary. In other words, hearing is just as important as sight for marine animals, if not more important. Hatch is researching the effects of noise on aquatic fauna. Marine animals are usually accustomed to noise from natural events, such as waves and even earthquakes, but more research is needed on the effects of noise originating from human activity. Hatch and her colleagues are working to investigate the effects of human noise on marine wildlife, if there are any. The NOAA Ocean Noise Strategy is a long term plan to investigate and resolve negative effects of human noise on marine wildlife. Acoustic monitoring in sanctuaries will be a key element in the research required to learn about the impacts of ocean noise. Gray’s Reef National Marine Sanctuary, a healthy, vibrant ecosystem, continues to be an important site for important new research as NOAA and other organizations strive to understand, protect, and conserve the ocean.

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Kayak Fishing By Brian Sanford Member of the Board Georgia Kayak Fishing

hat came first, the kayak or the fishing pole? It’s hard to tell, but today kayak fishing and the gear you want and need to do it is found in every major sporting goods stores around the country. At first kayak fishing meant you took a fishing pole along on your kayak paddling trip. Now, 10-15 years later, kayak fishing has national and world championship fishing tournaments with payouts you can pay a mortgage with. You cannot go to a boat ramp on a weekend without seeing a kayak fisherman anymore. Along with growing popularity, boat design has changed; kayaks designed for fishing are much wider and sometimes longer than your average recreational kayak. They're also more stable and capable of hauling the 500+ pounds of gear and accessories serious fisherman “need” to have on board for a trip. These design revisions also mean these boats can be three times the cost of a regular recreational kayak. Did I mention motors? Yeah, electric trolling motors come standard on some top trim “kayaks,” others can be added on the model you already own. Some might say that's not even kayaking anymore, but it's all about preference. Kayak fishing can still be a basic fun activity even on a budget. You don’t need a carbon fiber paddle, trolling motor, or quill of five or more expensive rods and reels. If you're interested in kayak fishing and think it's something you would enjoy but are intimidated by some of the prices or options here's a list of what you need and what you may want.

So whether you spend less than $1,000 or $10,000 is up to you. It doesn't matter how far you go down the kayak fishing rabbit hole! With a little preparation you'll have fun in this wonderland.

Need 1. Kayak - Preferably a SOT (sit on top) style. Vibe kayaks (a Georgia company) offers a Yellowfin 100 for $599 2. PFD - Extrasport Osprey Fishing PFD designed with pockets for storage. Academy sports $70 3. Paddle - Magellan Outdoors Torrent $39 Academy sports 4. Fishing pole - Ugly Stik GX2 $49 5. Water and snacks $5 6. Sun protection - Sun screen $10 bottle of coppertone 50spf (or full-cover breathable spf clothing $$) Thats it. You could buy this entire setup brand new for $775 and it would bring you hours of safe, fun, enjoyment with no additional costs. Background photo: Modern fishing kayaks are larger, and provide more stable platforms than traditional kayaks. Left: A kayak fisherman heading out on a basic sit-on-top model. Photos by Brian Sanford

Brian Sanford is a Georgia Kayak Fishing board member, a photographer and and Georgia native. He loves everything outdoors, including kayak fishing, backpacking and moutain biking. www.georgiakayakfishing.com www.bsanfordphoto.com May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

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Basic Paddling skills Paddling as Partners Good tandem canoeists paddle on opposite sides, in synchronicity, causing their canoe to run straight, fast, and stable. The bow partner sets the rhythm and chooses a side; the stern takes the other side and matches the cadence. Going It Alone When paddling a tandem canoe solo, you’ll control it best if you move as close to the middle of the boat as possible. Shift gear to get the right trim.

By Becky Molina American Canoe Assocation

Fine-Tuning the Forward Stroke

hether you’re in a canoe or kayak, the following concepts will help you develop good form as you take to the water. Sit up straight. Your mother was right: Posture is important for balance, efficiency and safety. Imagine that the heaviest parts of your body-head, chest, abdomen, hips and rear end— are blocks in a tower. Keep them evenly stacked for beginning techniques; it’s when they come out of alignment that the tower (and your boat) is more likely to topple. Staying loose in the hips allows the boat to rock under you. Use the big muscles. Instead of bicycling your hands out and back with each stroke, keep arms relatively straight. Paddling with arms alone is inefficient and fatiguing. Your chest, back and stomach muscles are much sturdier, so they’re better suited for the task. Paddling slightly stiff-armed is a method for learning efficient strokes. It forces use of the larger muscles. Be shoulder safe. Shoulder injuries are not uncommon in paddlesports. To protect your shoulders, keep your hands in front of your body. When placing a paddle blade behind you, turn to look at it, rotating your shoulders into a safe position. Different strokes. An entire vocabulary of strokes exists for every direction a boat can travel. Take a class to learn them all properly. Until then, remember these rules: • Keep the paddle blade perpendicular to the desired direction of travel. Forward strokes run parallel to the boat’s centerline. To move sideways away from the bank or dock, put the blade in the water parallel to your boat and pull yourself over to the blade. This is called a draw stroke. • Steer at the ends. You’ll get more mechanical advantage from turning strokes by doing them close to the ends of your boat. Sweep strokes are great for turning, tracing broad arcs to and from the bow or stern.

To paddle a canoe straight and true, picture yourself putting these techniques into play: • Stack it up. To make the most of each stroke, keep the shaft as vertical as possible. Stack your hands, with your grip directly above the shaft hand during the power portion of the stroke. The incorrect tendency to keep the top hand in front of the body angles the shaft and turns the canoe off course. • Do the twist. Rotate your shoulders away from the paddle at the catch of your forward stroke by twisting at the waist. Place the blade in the water well forward of your knee. Unwind your torso to power the stroke, keeping arms straight. • Keep it short. When the blade is at your knee, the stroke is over. Making the stroke short and out in front keeps the blade square and the stroke parallel to the canoe’s centerline. Carrying the blade behind the body pulls the boat off course.

Kayaking 101

Getting In Before getting it wet, hop into your kayak on flat ground to adjust the foot pegs and back band to fit you. Then, with kayak in the water parallel to shore, place your paddle shaft behind the cockpit or seat, extending one blade to rest shoreside on firm ground to lend stability when entering. Get a Grip A white-knuckled death grip can lead to discomfort. Relax. Hold the paddle shaft with thumbs and forefingers forming rings, like you’re making the "OK" sign, and keep your other fingers loose. Now you can orient your blades and gain reach without stressing your wrists.To find the right hand position, put the center of the shaft on top of your head, then hold it so that your arms form right angles at the elbow. Use the Blades Properly Many kayak paddle blades are asymmetrical. The spooned powerface is designed for grabbing water with each forward stroke. The other side (backface) is used also for certain strokes. Some blades look lopsided, a feature affording hydrodynamic advantage. Keep the long edge on top. Going Forward Plant the blade as far forward as you can comfortably reach, rotating your torso without leaning forward. Keep the path of your stroke parallel to the boat. Use a more relaxed shaft angle (45 to 60 degrees) for touring, and bring it more vertical—which places the blade closer to the boat—for a power boost.

Canoeing 101

Getting Into It Align the canoe parallel to shore before entering or exiting, with the bow partner holding the boat steady for the stern partner. You can brace your paddle shaft across the gunwales as you step into the center with the outer foot first. For maximum safety, settle into a three-point stance, knees spread and rear end resting on the front edge of the seat. Adjust people and gear to trim your boat, keeping the stern slightly deeper in the water than the bow. Holding On Place one hand on top of the paddle’s grip (not around the upper shaft), and the other hand loosely on the shaft (and not down at the throat, where the shaft meets the blade).Your hands should only be about an arm’s length apart. May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

Article reprinted with permission from ACA. 13

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Self-Rescue: A Primer paddle float, an inflatable bag that attaches to one end of a paddle. When holding the other end tightly to the boat (or fastening to deck rigging), the paddle forms an effective outrigger, making the kayak more stable and easier to enter. Sponsons—cylindrical inflatable bags—can also be attached to either side of a kayak to improve stability for re-entry. Other techniques exist for open-water reentry to kayaks and even canoes, but they—like the ones mentioned here—need to be practiced. Take a basic rescue course beforehand, and don’t wait until you need to self-rescue to try one.

By Gordon Black Director ACA Safety Education & Instruction

When you have an accident you’re the first person at the scene, so you might as well save yourself. We all know we should wear a lifejacket, and clothes and shoes appropriate to the conditions in case we end up in the water. But what then? Self-rescue is a vital skill for all paddlers. Whether canoeing or kayaking on flatwater, rivers or the ocean, the skills apply across the board.

Avoid Getting Lost

In our modern world of cellphones, maps and GPS units, most people don’t concern themselves with getting lost. But in the absence of high-tech gadgetry, not knowing where you are and how to get back home can be problematic. And in an emergency knowing where you are often isn’t enough; you need to be able to reach safety, or get help to come to you. A few precautions can make a big difference if you become lost, or darkness finds you still far from your take-out. A GPS can help you find your way, and can help you direct rescuers to your location. Even a low-tech map and compass (and the skills to use them) are important. Before the trip, leave a float plan with friends and check the map to find the closest road or access point. Take a list of emergency phone numbers for the area you’re paddling in. For a sea kayaker, or anyone using shipping channels, navigational charts are a must. To contact help or attract attention, use a whistle, signal mirror, cell phone or radio. But all of those have limitations (i.e. battery life and poor reception). You can also use flares, noisemaking devices and signal lights, which are mandated by the U.S. Coast Guard for some craft in some locations. If you have to make a fire to alert possible rescuers, keep it smoky during the day and big and bright at night. Wearing bright and/or reflective clothing and lifejackets also helps. Have a backup plan in case of emergency. Skills to avoid trouble are key, along with training in rescue, first aid, and how to get to safety and help. Take the trouble to get some training and knowledge, and you’ll stay out of trouble.

he first step of any self-rescue is to avoid a rescue situation in the first place. That means stay within your abilities and always have a game plan in case you capsize. If you do find yourself in the water, stay in contact with your boat and hold on to your paddle if possible. Wind, or even gentle current, can move the boat away from you surprisingly quickly. Position yourself upstream, or upwind, of the boat, and hold on to it with one hand. If possible, also hold your paddle in the same hand, which will free up the other hand for swimming. If another person was in the boat with you, now is the time to see if they are ok and get them to swim to the same end of the boat that you’re holding on to. If you’re near the riverbank, or close to shore of a lake or sea, use your free arm to swim yourself and boat in to land. It is generally easier to empty and re-enter the boat on shore. Take care if your swim happens in a river. Standard river swimming tactics include rolling over on your back and keeping your feet on the surface to avoid foot entrapment and ward off rocks. Watch out for obstacles such as boulders, downed trees and man-made objects like old cars and fences. Swim quickly to shore to reduce your exposure to these and other hazards. When you’re close enough to shore that the water is only knee deep and you’re out of the current, go ahead and stand up—but watch your footing and beware of possible foot entrapment between unseen rocks. Be thankful you’re wearing shoes to protect your feet. If you tip over far from shore you’ll need to get back into your boat, then bail or pump out any water. Having help from others is much easier than getting back in by yourself. Prudent paddlers always travel in groups, but because boaters can become separated by wind, waves or weather conditions, self-rescue must be practiced. Sea kayakers probably have the most different rescue techniques because swimming to shore isn’t always an option. Although a swimmer can re-enter a kayak by climbing up from the stern and then swinging his or her legs around in front and into the cockpit, this maneuver takes balance and practice. It’s also hard to do in heavy seas. To make a sea kayak more stable many paddlers use a May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

SAFETY RESOUCES FOR PADDLERS American Canoe Association www.americancanoe.org American Outdoors www.americaoutdoors.org American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org United States Canoe Association www.uscanoe.com 15

Paddling Ebenezer By Cathy J. Sakas Naturalist

Even sunny days can seem mysterious and haunting. Changing light patterns at different times of day mean different views with each visit to the creek.

Photos by Amy Thurman

consider myself very lucky. I live near one of the most accessible wilderness freshwater waterways in coastal Georgia – Ebenezer Creek. I’m grateful for it every day, and especially now during the time of COVID-19, when gathering together isn’t a good plan. So, once a week I load up my canoe or kayak and within 30 minutes or so, I’m launching into that liquid stream of tranquility. Recently, my long-time friend and director of Gray’s Reef National Marine Sanctuary Foundation, Jody Patterson, met me at Ebenezer for an afternoon of canoeing. I found it quite appropriate as her foundation intrinsically connects Ebenezer via the Savannah River to Gray’s Reef. Now-retired research scientist Dr. Jack Blanton, formerly of Skidaway Institute of Oceanography, first alerted me to his research that made this connection. He traced tritium, leaking from the Savannah River site, down the Savannah River and all the way offshore, out to Gray’s Reef. So, Jody and I made note of that fact and appreciated paddling on water that would eventually make its way out to her reef. Within a few minutes of leaving our launch site, Jody and I floated into the most incredible, serene, green sanctuary that exists near both of our homes. Imagine big sighs of contentment! Within the green tunnel of twisted cypress trees, we sat for a time without moving, just soaking up the ambiance. The experience

is magical; a profound sense of serenity washes over you. Every muscle in your body relaxes and you nearly become one with the black mirrored water, with the twisted, buttressed trunks. A slight ripple moves across the black surface and catches a ray of light penetrating through the thick canopy. The reflected light dances in waves and I’m transfixed. Ebenezer is a black water creek. Our coastal waters are relatively warm year round and the waterways are slow moving since the elevation decline is gradual. In addition, there’s a constant supply of tannin leaching out from the leaves, bark, limbs and branches of trees. This process is similar to the leaves in tea bags I use to make my tea, lending to the descriptive term “black water.” In past years I’ve measured the pH of the water and found it to be quite acidic. The pH ranged between 6.5 and 5. Considering tap water is usually around 7.5, this water was quite acidic. The pH scale is exponential, meaning that pH6 is 10 times more acidic than pH7 and pH5 is 100 times more acidic than a pH7 and pH4 is 1000 times more acidic than pH7. You get my drift. Back in the mid 1970’s, long before Ebenezer Creek earned the designation of National Natural Landmark, I led week-long summer camps for kids. We always paddled one day on Ebenezer, in the heat of the summer. With the thermometer registering near

the top, all the kids wanted to get in that water! Although fears of alligators melted away with the heat, the black water you just couldn’t see through caused hesitation. That is, until one of us, the adult leaders, stood up in our canoe and jumped in. Then lots of splashing and laughing ensued! What fun! Back here in the present, under the soul-soothing ambience of majestic cypress, a lot of activity goes on in the smaller scale of things. One of the creatures I find most fascinating are fish-eating spiders. They take up quite a big patch of tree bark, blending in with the dark gray bark as they rest. Even though relatively large, about the size of a small woman’s hand, the brush-like bundles on the ends of their legs enable them to walk across the surface of the water. When ready to hunt, they grab a bubble of air and dive under. Scuba diving arachnid style! With the bubble of air, the fishing spiders are able to stay under for several minutes to hunt their scaly prey. Large mandibles seize tiny fish and kill them by injecting toxin that dissolves the tissue so the spider can suck up the liquid nutrient easily. Within the first half mile of being on Ebenezer, Jody and I began searching for greenfly orchids. I knew they nestled in the crooks of cypress tree about 15 feet up. The first time I came across these lovely delicate orchids was on Little St. Simons Island. On every tour I gave to the north end of the island, I passed by a live oak that had a cluster of these orchids. They bloom in every month of the year but not the same month in a particular year. That year, the cluster bloomed in January, the next year in March. I eventually identified clusters in other trees and they too bloomed in various months throughout the year but different months in subsequent years. Anyway, the other interesting characteristic of these little delicate orchids is that they give off a liquorish-like fragrance, but only at night. Looking up we see resurrection ferns lining the tops of limbs like hair on massive arms. So called because during dry spells, the fern curls up and retracts the chlorophyll from its petite compound leaves to conserve energy, appearing dead. No need to photosynthesize if there is no moisture to help the process. When it rains, the resurrection fern appears to come back to life, unfurling its leaves and restoring the vibrant green chlorophyll so photosynthesis can nourish its cells. Cascades of Spanish moss elegantly drape live Oaks and red maples. The moss too can look ghostly gray when it’s dry, but when the rain comes, it takes on a subtle, heather green hue. Likewise ball moss, in the same genus as Spanish moss, Tillandsia, also turns a beautiful shade of heather green when wet. It clumps together in a tight tangle with sporadic reproductive spikes sticking up like unruly hairs from a conductor’s head at the end of a long concert. In the spring duck weed, the smallest flowering plant in North America, covers the surface of the water changing it from mirrored black to matte bright green. This is the stuff that early Hollywood Tarzan movies used to depict quicksand. When you drop anything through it, the duck week parts momentarily and then collects back together covering the surface as if nothing ever happened. It makes for great Hollywood magic even though woefully inaccurate. When the water level is high at Ebenezer, as it is right now, wading birds are few and far between, if at all. On our visit, mostly songbirds called and winged through the trees overhead.

Top Right: While paddling through the maze of tupelo and cypress trunks, it isn't unusual to imagine shapes. We'll call this one: Wise Old Man of the Creek. Right: Resurrection ferns line the limbs of trees, appearing dead in times of drought, or vibrant, like these, after recent rains. May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

Left: Trees at the water's edge reflect in mirror image in the still water. Below: The unique landscape varies greatly from spot to spot with wide open vista's like this to the tunnel-like areas in other stretches of the creek.

We identified red-eyed vireos, prothonotary warblers, pileated woodpeckers, red-bellied woodpeckers and yellow-billed cuckoos. On numerous other trips I’ve heard and seen barred owls, “Who cooks for you? Who cooks for you all?” On most occasions when I have been lucky enough to see a barred owl, it was by chance. I just happened to be looking up for greenfly orchids, when I saw those big eyes looking down on me. Their heads swivel, appearing to turn in full circles. Although most kids will tell you they can, barred owls can’t actually twist their heads all the way around. Owls ears are slightly offset, not directly opposite. One is slightly higher up on the head, allowing the owl to accurately pinpoint the location of prey. For example, noise from a mouse rummaging on the forest floor hits the owl’s ears at slightly different times and

angles, enabling the owl’s brain to exactly locate the source of the noise. The fringed edges of an owl’s flight feathers allow the wind to pass through the feathers without alerting their prey to their approach. They are silent fliers. The birds I hear mostly in Ebenezer are the wild calls of pileated woodpeckers. Our largest extant woodpecker, they sport a bright red crest on top their heads. The word pileus is Latin for felt cap. They can be heard for miles with their raucous calls and when they drum on hollow trees and limbs. The drumming is rapid and the louder the better as this drumming establishes and advertises the bird’s territory. When a pileated is feeding, you will hear loud, deliberate taps at several second intervals. The beaks of these birds have strong reflexive muscles that absorb the shock of the pecking

Southern Tides Magazine

May 2020

or drumming. After a hard peck, the bird will use its beak to pry off a chunk of wood to get the goody inside. The goody is a tasty, plump grub. Yum, yum! On a great day, usually in the height of summer’s heat, I will hear bird-voiced tree frogs. These wonderful little frogs are tiny but have big voices. Their call is one sharp repetitive whistle that literally sounds like a bird’s chirp. When all the males join up to create a chorus of love songs, it is a glorious concert of hopeful, amorous, loudly-imploring chirps. Other frogs can be heard here as well, like southern leopard frogs that sound like fully inflated balloons rubbing together. Carpenter frogs sound like a carpenter hammering nails or working a ratchet wrench, from a distance. Cricket frogs sound like a kid tapping two metal balls together over and over again. On a hot, misty summer’s night, the frog chorus is glorious and deafening! When friends and guests from other areas paddle with me, inevitably one of the first questions is about alligators. I tell my nervous friends that when you grow up in Coastal Georgia you swim with alligators even though you may not know it. Any body of fresh water will have an alligator or two at some point, often as many as the water can accommodate. Ebenezer Creek is prime habitat for alligators, although I have only seen a few in all the many years I’ve paddled there, possibly due to the frequency of humans using the creek recreationally. When people ask nervously about the presence of alligators in Ebenezer Creek, I tell them they’re really lucky if they ever see one! I’d been paddling Ebenezer for quite a few years before I heard the horrible story of a massacre that took place there in early December 1864. There’s now a marker at the restroom facility at Tommy Long Landing describing the tragedy. It reads:

One mile north, on December 9, 1864, during the American Civil War, U.S. Gen. Jeff. C. Davis crossed Ebenezer Creek with his 14th Army Corps as it advanced toward Savannah during Gen. William T. Sherman’s March to the Sea. Davis hastily removed the pontoon bridges over the creek, and hundreds of freed slaves following his army drowned trying to swim the swollen waters to escape the pursuing Confederates. Following a public outcry, Sec. of War Edwin Stanton met with Sherman and local black leaders in Savannah on January 12, 1865. Four days later, President Lincoln approved Sherman’s Special Field Orders No. 15, confiscating over 400,000 acres of coastal property and redistributing it to former slaves in 40-acre tracts.

When you visit Ebenezer Creek, be prepared to take countless pictures. There's a new photo opportunity in every direction.

Jody and I stopped paddling for several moments slowly drifting by as we remembered the lives of those who tried to cross Ebenezer that horrific day and didn’t make it. May they all rest in eternal peace. Mostly when I paddle Ebenezer, I put in at Tommy Long Landing and return to it. It’s simply much easier than running a shuttle. On a few occasions however, I run a shuttle so I can paddle the entire creek. I put in at Long Bridge and paddle the six or so miles all the way to the Savannah River taking out at Ebenezer Landing near the Salzburger’s Jerusalem Lutheran Church. It’s a boat ramp and the owner charges a fee. For me the most important part of my time on Ebenezer Creek is the way it makes me feel. It is the best therapy for calming my soul and lifting up my spirits. It completely recharges my batteries. Because it’s so close to home I have the luxury of deciding to go on a moment’s notice and within an hour of deciding, I am at peace once again. I slip into that dark water, look for my greenfly orchids on that first big turn, float up under the magic of the green cypress sanctuary and feel the weight of the world drip off my shoulders. For a personally guided tour of Ebenezer Creek, download the free app, Explore Ebenezer, courtesy of the City of Springfield, Georgia.

May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

Kayaking Coastal Georgia What should I take? How much weight can I carry? Are there charts for my adventure? Where will I stay? So many questions! And of course, with questions comes researching, education, answers and finally delving into the art of kayaking! We don’t have to do the whole thing at once on the first go around. Maybe have a look at charts and plan for a two- to three-day adventure to get into the groove. Some of the best memories I have include my first paddle through Rifle Cut - its beauty will be imprinted on my mind forever. That one curve that swoops in so close to the hammock on one side, with its hairpin curves through the marsh. Or the time I took a wrong cut trying to get into Newell Creek. Oops, did I add five miles to an almost twenty-mile day? Was it so beautiful it was worth the pain? Yes, absolutely. You don’t count on moving from the ocean to the marshes without adding a lot of mileage. Take time to paddle in a way that you absorb the visual treats of Coastal Georgia with its live oaks, palms, endless vistas of salt marsh, hammocks, and all the fauna, like birds and dolphin babies. Have you seen the horseshoe crabs spawning, or how about the polychaete worms? Bald eagles nesting? Or looked around in the middle of a two-mile crossing where it feels like you are a tiny dot in a big salty world? There are a number of access issues to take into account as you plan to go down the coast. One of the things that has kept our islands in such pristine condition is that you can only drive to four of the barrier islands. All the others can only be reached by boat, or kayak, if you please. Also, come up with a plan for powering your kayak so you won’t run out of steam before the end of the journey. Knowing your limitations and basing that on environmental factors is all part of the process of building efficiency in paddling. We are connected to nature and one of her most challenging and beautiful faces is right in our back yard. I hope you find the time to enjoy it as I have.

By Marsha Henson Certified Instructor: Kayak, SUP, Canoe & Yoga

hat an ecosystem we have! The coast of Georgia has 110 miles of shoreline, backed up by literally thousands of miles of twisty, winding, estuaries and tidal creeks. The lure of paddling the coast, whether by ocean, or behind the islands and through the marshes, is the subject of many a romanticized conversation. Romanticized you ask? Why don’t we just drop everything and go? Oh, the considerations! Your paddle could be just for the afternoon. Much solace can be absorbed from just a few hours out in the wilds of the estuary where, after only a few turns in the river, civilization feels a million miles away. There is no way I can tell you how to paddle the coast of Georgia in a short article. One must put together an itinerary that suits their individual abilities and time frames. What I can tell you is that no matter if your journey begins with a brief few hour visit or a paddle of several days, the coastal Georgia waterways will get into your thoughts. It’ll pull you back to continue building on your skills and challenge you to visualize its depth and complexity. I teach a class called “Local Waters” focusing on tides, currents, and the effects of wind on paddling. So many times people in the class will ask me, “When is the best time to go paddling?” The answer? When your schedule allows! You need to check wind and tides – the sum of those two, applied to a local chart, will tell you where to go. The coast of Georgia is one of the most majestic paddles, with so many layers in what it offers. To prepare, you can study charts and learn tidal planning. You can figure how to get your tent, personal gear, food and prep gear, and safety gear all put together and packed. Should we go north to south? What time of year should we go? Neap tides or spring tides? Long range weather predictions say what? Do I know how to use a VHF radio? Will there be fresh water?

Visit Marsha at Sea Kayak Georgia. www.seakayakgeorgia.com

Southern Tides Magazine

May 2020

Left: Kayaks ready for the next day's travel. Center left: Beaching to explore. Center right: Sunrise overlooking sand dunes. Bottom: A coastal Georgia panorama. Photos by Marsha Henson

May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

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Basic Paddling Practices · Always wear a properly fitted PFD (lifejacket) while on the water. · Never go boating while under the influence of alcohol or drugs. · Do not stand up in a canoe or kayak, and avoid weight shifts that may cause capsizing. · Avoid weather or water conditions beyond your skill level. · Be able to effectively steer and propel your boat. · Never float or paddle over a low-head (submerged) dam, fallen tree, or other in-water obstruction. · Do not paddle alone. Inform others (friends, family, co-worker) of your trip plan. · Carry a supply of food and water adequate for your trip length. · Learn about your route in advance, especially potential hazards, such as rapids, low-head dams, or dam releases. · Never overload the boat with more weight or persons than it is designed to safely accommodate. · Plan for – and know where to go in case of – emergencies. SAFETY SKILLS · Learn how to self-rescue in the event of a capsize. · Be proficient in proper paddling technique and learn to read the water. · Only take on challenges for which you are physically and mentally prepared. · Learn rescue skills necessary to assist others.

STANDARDS OF CONDUCT · Obey all rules and regulations. · Only use public lands and access points. · Be considerate to others on the water. · Never change clothes in public view. · Respect local culture and standards of conduct. · Give back to the waterway. ENVIRONMENTAL ETHICS · Never litter. Always pack out trash. · Conduct all toilet activity at least 200 feet from any water body.* · Pack out human waste in sensitive or heavily used environments. · Do not disturb wildlife. · Minimize impacts to the shore when launching, portaging, scouting or taking out. · Avoid building campfires, except in established fire rings, or in emergencies. · Consult the Leave No Trace website (www.LNT.org) and local resource managers for additional guidance. *Exact procedures vary depending on the specific environmental characteristics (climate, soil, etc.) of your paddling or camping location.

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Exploring Augustine Creek By Dave Mewborn Outreach Coordinator Savannah Riverkeeper Photos by Jordan Scholl

ust upstream from the Houlihan boat landing and across the Savannah River from the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge flows a small creek teeming with wildlife. Augustine Creek is its official name but if you look on Google maps you’ll see it marked Saint Augustine Creek. You might ask yourself, “How many St. Augustine Creeks are there in Chatham County?” Good question. While Google Maps may be reliable for navigation on land, the same can't be said for navigation on the water. In Liberty Count nearly every waterway is listed as Blackbeard Creek. This Augustine Creek is located in Port Wentworth, Ga., just north of the city of Savannah. It was named after one of the first to settle the area in 1734, Walter Augustine. The creek was the southern border of his 500-acre property that later became known as Drakies Land or Drakies Plantation, named after a later owner’s homeland in Scotland. Walter Augustine built a sawmill on the property and hoped to make his fortune through lumber; the creek emptied into the Savannah River making it the perfect highway to float lumber down into the city. Hardships of working the land eventually sent Walter to Charles Town to seek his fortune and lead his son to sell the land to the Cuthbert family who created great rice plantations with the property. Rice was the first agricultural commodity in Coastal Georgia and was produced from the mid-1700s to early 1900s. The wetlands and natural tidal flow of the Savannah River suited the cultivation of rice perfectly. Canals, levees and ditches were constructed to help irrigate the rice, some of which still exist to this day – these are neat little channels to paddle. Many times you’ll find there’s no exit but it’s a good way to experience the marsh: paddle into one of these canals and just … listen. Nowadays, this little creek is surrounded by activity. Georgia Ports Authority is only a few miles to the south. Paper and other wood industries lie just south of the creek in Port Wentworth along with Imperial Sugar Refinery. The expansion of the port has brought a considerable number of logistical and distribution

centers – staging areas for large commercial industry in the area. While paddling on the creek you can hear the faint sounds of industry and civilization, planes, and North Coastal Highway just barely audible over the gentle sounds of the marsh grass rustling in the wind and birds singing. An ideal leisurely paddle would consist of a clear weather forecast (check the weather and the wind, also the tides if your water body is tidal influenced as Augustine Creek is), light wind to keep you cool, having a paddle buddy, and beginning the outing an hour before high tide. Proper dress for what the weather could become, not what it is currently, plenty of water, sun protection, and your trusty PFD (worn properly) with whistle are highly recommended. Although, using the tidal flow to assist in the ease of the trip has its downfalls. Most of the wading birds and alligators are better viewed on the banks of the creek during the outgoing tides (low tide), but the rub of that is literally fighting the tide and the flow of the creek for half of your trip. Getting to see some cool critters makes it worth the extra workout it for me, but for others not so much. Speaking of seeing the American alligators, it is important to note that this area can be extremely popular for gators. During their nesting season, which can run from as early as July to as late as September and is when female alligators are building nests and laying eggs, the females can be super protective and territorial of their nest areas. It is not common for alligators to attack humans, but a majority of the times they do attack or are aggressive toward us is when they feel threatened or if their young are involved. So, be mindful and courteous of their space (a good 60 feet is encouraged by UGA’s Savannah River Ecology Lab). It is also important to note that feeding, molesting, injuring, or killing an alligator is punishable by law with possible fines or jail time. Generally during those months it’s too hot to paddle over there anyway, but in the cooler months of the year it’s a wonderful oasis in the middle of all the nearby hustle and bustle to view red winged black birds, kingfishers, wood storks, egrets and other wading birds, watch shad jump out of the water, and of course see gators sunning themselves on the creek banks. If you start your paddle trip an hour before high tide in Port Wentworth, after about an hour to 90-minute paddle up the creek (or if you paddled super hard and reached Hwy 21 Augusta Road) you can turn around and allow the water to do the work as you wind back towards the Savannah River and Houlihan landing. Savannah Riverkeeper would like to encourage families, friends, and other household groups to get outside during these strange times and enjoy the healing powers of water, if not on the Savannah River, somewhere near you! Safe paddling, Safe adventures! Opposite Page: Photographer Jordan Scholl and author Dave Mewborn paddling Augustine Creek. This page, top: An alligator sunning on a bank, just one example of the wildlife you'll see while paddling. Above: Historic Houlihan Bridge, built in the 1920s, is one of the few swing bridges in the country and the last of it's kind in Georgia. The bridge pivots to allow river traffic to pass. Below: A panoramic view of Augustine Creek.

May 2020

Southern Tides Magazine

Why Choose SUP

Above: Taking your dog along makes for great companionship while paddling! Below: Boards and paddles are available in various sizes to meet your physical needs.

By Dr. Bruce Gabrielson Chairman National Surf School & Instructors Association

Photos by Cathy Liberatori Certified Instructor East Coast Paddleboarding

ven with all the various board related sports available to us, stand up paddleboarding (SUP) offers some exceptional opportunities. Think about it. Here on the coast you can use a stand up paddleboard, a traditional surfboard, a kite surfboard, a wake board, or a kneeboard. There is a learning curve. Kiteboarding and traditional surfing take a lot of practice to get to a level where you can really enjoy what you are doing. Kneeboarding is a little easier but you still need to be in great shape for all the swimming involved. Then thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SUP. For simple enjoyment it doesn't take a lot of practice to stand up and paddle. Virtually any body of water will do and you don't need to be in exceptional physical shape on calmer waters. You don't need a professionally designed and shaped board for simple paddling. 26

Southern Tides Magazine

May 2020

Many older surfers who are dealing with bad knees or other age/wear factors have found that migrating to ocean SUP allows them to continue to enjoy surfing. Scenery is a benefit to paddling and the SUP practitioner can have it all. Some rivers meander through some of the most beautiful scenery on the Georgia coast and in the world. The Columbia Gorge in Oregon and Washington is a great example. Wherever you paddle, you can have someone drop you off upriver and you can drift along for miles. You can also land almost anywhere, a problem sometimes when you have a boat and shallow water. In recent years, the costs for SUP boards has dropped drastically. Much of the price decrease is the result of machine-shaped and sprayed fiberglass boards taking on larger roles in production. SUP boards are large, and traditional surfboard manufacturing shops with hand-shaping and glassing aren't ideal for building SUP boards. A traditional surfboard has unique rail designs for various conditions while a non-racing or non-competition SUP uses a more general design. These conditions are easily addressed with machine shaping. Another trend in more recent years has been the creation of SUP clubs and schools. They now exist on the Great Lakes, most inland waterways, bays, and lakes across the country and around the world. One unique function of SUP schools is teaching SUP surf etiquette. While traditional surfers in the lineup look outward for waves, the SUP surfer needs to look both outward and inward so as not to continually interfere with traditional board surfers closer to shore. A SUP is considerably larger than a traditional surfboard and the last thing you want to do is injure someone inside on a traditional surfboard. Also of note is the proliferation of SUP rental outlets. If you don't want to store or haul around a big board, just rent one when you want to use it. So, for simple outdoor enjoyment on a board, the SUP represents a great way to get in some year around exercise without the learning curve and expenses of mastering more challenging board sports. For more info, visit: www.nssia.org

From family activities to observing wildlife, stand up paddleboarding is a great way to spend time on the water.

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Many paddlers participate in more than one sport. Here is a comparison between recreational kayaing and SUP.

Recreational Kayaker Crossover to Other Paddlesports

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Reasons for paddlesport incidents vary, but more than three-quarters of reported incidents occur when there is clear visibility. Some accidents are attributed to environmental conditions, like hazardous water conditions or bad weather. Human error, like operator inexperience, inattention, and alcohol use, accounts for many of the other causes of an incident.

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bit.ly/2019paddlesportreport May 2020

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Fishable Swimmable Drinkable Water!

The BitterEnd Up the Creek Without a Paddle By Captain J. Gary "Gator" Hill

hope you never find yourself up a creek, and if you practice safe paddling procedures you shouldn’t. Before becoming a boat captain I was a paddle guide, and I can honestly say it was some of the most enjoyable time I’ve spent on the water. As I’ve mentioned before, I got into kayaking and canoeing way back in the 70s and 80s. Much later in life I transitioned from my former occupation to the one that brought me to the lowcountry to start with: the water. In preparation for this article, with social distancing still in effect, my resources to speak with people were somewhat limited. But luckily, I know people who are in the paddling business right here in my own backyard. One, Shane Parris, I see on an almost daily basis, while the other, Marsha Henson, is better associated with my editor, but was graciously able to assist remotely. Though both run kayak companies, their business plans and dynamics are quite different. While shooting some scenes for a music video I was working on, I spoke with my friend Shane, who owns and operates North Island Surf and Kayak here on Tybee Island. (Shane, if you’re reading this and I made a mistake, just realize I suck at this interview thing.) It seems most people who are in this business come from different backgrounds. I’ve known Shane for several years as a paddler and bagpiper, but until this interview didn’t know he was a former educator. Shane was a high school history teacher but had a love for surfing. Around 2003 or 2004 Shane became associated with Alakai Outfitters, first as a customer, then as a surf instructor, then eased into being a kayak guide. As fate would have it, in 2004 Shane had the opportunity to buy Alakai, so he took the plunge. Alakai at the time was in a different location but Shane’s shop is today at Tybee Marina, just over the Lazaretto Creek Bridge. In 2005 he moved to the present location right on the water. While talking with Shane, I asked him what some of the challenges of business were fifteen years ago versus today. As you can imagine there’s a huge contrast. In the early years the biggest challenge was getting the word out to people, then allaying their fears and misconceptions of kayaking. In other words, educating them. In the dark ages of kayaks, most all were sit-in, meaning you did just that, the seat was down inside of the kayak, which caused many to feel like they were trapped in the event of a rollover. As the sport progressed, sit-on kayaks became the norm, and most rental kayaks in the coastal area are this style. If you do flip your ‘yak, you just fall off into the water. Today, in the midst of the covid-19 pandemic a different challenge is faced. Fortunately kayaking is perfectly suited for social distancing. Shane takes care to be sure the boats and other gear are disinfected before your rental. Of course, when people paddle, they are much greater than six feet apart. If you want to get away, you can simply rent one for a few hours and paddle out on the Tybee Bay, or into the salt marsh. If you want a perfect day on the water and are on or around Tybee give him a call (912) 786-4000. My second contributor to this piece is Marsha Henson, of Sea 30

Photo provided by North Island Surf and Kayak

Kayak Georgia, also here on Tybee Island. Though I don’t know Marsha personally, I feel I know her spirit quite well. Marsha’s background is varied and includes working as an outdoor educator, landscaper, landscape and waterscape painter, history buff, and archivist. Marsha has been associated Sea Kayak Georgia since the early 2000’s. The company was started in 1994 and she and her partner Ronnie Kemp came on originally as instructors. When opportunity presented itself, they purchased it in 2006. I asked her what their biggest challenges are today, and this was what she had to say. “Business closure during quarantine. Being unable to interact with others in our day programs, multi-day adventures and instruction. Learning how to socially distance and still provide service. New cleaning rules for the shop, paperless forms, other new standards and methods of doing business and relating to the public. I’m so grateful for the outdoors as well as the renewed interest and love of our coastal marshes and the sea, that were distant while sheltering in place. Seeing open spaces allows folks to stretch out mentally and physically after waiting and holding on. Paddling exercise helps to reduce stress from fears and anxiety from health threat.” Sea Kayak Georgia is an outdoor adventure, specializing in education both on the water and while exploring our marshes, hammocks, and coastal barrier islands. For those ready to step up to the next level, but in a safe and guided manner, give Marsha and Ronnie a call at (912) 786-8732. For those of us who have chosen to work in this sector of the sport and/or tourism, these personal interactions are how we forge a bond with our clients. Even though we may only see them once, sometimes they leave a tiny mark in our memories and impact us in unexpected ways. Give Marsha or Shane a call, or look for kayak, SUP or canoe outfitters on your stretch of the coast. You won’t regret it! Till next time, Peace and Love, Shrimp and Grits … and wash your hands!

Email: TheOriginalCaptainGator@gmail.com

Southern Tides Magazine

May 2020

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355 Island Road