Hidden Treasures Historical Tourism on the Space Coast

Hidden Treasures:

Historical Tourism Space Coast

Historical Tourism Space Coast

HIDDEN TREASURES: HISTORICAL TOURISM ON THE SPACE COAST

BY LYNNE MIMS

Sun, sand, and space are the usual things that come to mind when thinking of Florida’s Space Coast. Despite the emphasis on surfing and space exploration, there exists a thick cultural history here, one that has been built up by its founders and families who have called Brevard County their home for generations. At the root of these cultural histories are stories: stories of love and family, of hard work and dedication, of human rights and our collective fight for justice and equality. Though these stories are not well known, they are not untold - you just have to know where to find them. Bensen House

Our journey begins at one of the southernmost parts of the Space Coast in the town of Grant. Driving north on US Highway 1, the quaint, whitewashed Cracker house that sits almost touching the shoreline of the Indian River is near impossible to miss. Bensen House, or as it is sometimes referred, the 1916 House, originally belonged to Atley Bensen and his wife Clara Christensen. The Bensen and the Christensen families were leading pioneers of Grant. Atley’s father, Louis, had read in some of the local Wisconsin newspapers that Florida had much to offer in terms of quality of life, which prompted both families to uproot and make the long journey south. Despite the media’s rosy imagery, the Bensen family arrived in 1893 to discover the harsh realities of Florida’s stifling heat, mosquitoes, gators, and other natural obstacles to comfortable living.

In spite of the challenges, they explored every opportunity to make ends meet. Louis established the first general store in Grant, which served as a post office and railway express office. He became the area’s second Postmaster, appointed in May 1894. The building still exists today as “Grant Station Rib City” and retains some of the old charm of the original trading post.

Louis’ sons, Atley and Adolph went on to become pineapple farmers, taking advantage of the abundance of fruit trees that grew on the barrier island a short distance across the river from their home. After the Great Freeze of 1894-1895 devastated their crop, they turned their hands to commercial fishing. The Bensen and Christensen families were close; both brothers married Christensen sisters and built houses side by side on the river. The Bensen house was eventually moved in 1985 less than a mile from its original site onto the land where it now sits, the site of Grant’s very first house, which unfortunately burned down in

the 1970s. By combining the site of Grant’s first house and the 1916 Bensen house, it enabled the preservation of these two important historical assets of the area.

The house was donated to the Grant Historical Society by Atley and Clara’s son, Russell, in 1984, in memory of his mother who passed several years earlier. Some thoughtful restoration has taken place, and the home was opened as a museum in 1987. The house is definitely worth a visit as the unassuming yet authentic structure gives the visitor a true feel for Florida living in the early 20th century. The well-maintained picnic area and beautiful new dock enable visitors to enjoy the natural breeze from the water and take advantage of picturesque views that feature the prominent barrier island that once provided a livelihood for these families. The Society does not charge for admission to Bensen House. Maintenance and upkeep is dependent on visitor donations, events, and the generosity of the local community. When you stop by, consider contributing to the preservation of this little piece of Grant’s history.

Green Gables

Continuing north on Highway 1, as you pass the Melbourne Causeway, you will find Green Gables on your right. Driving into the property, glimpses of the Indian River peek through the branches of century-old oaks, majestically extending their limbs towards the roof of this tired-looking but nonetheless remarkable home.

Back in its days of splendor, Green Gables was owned by William and Nora Wells. Despite their considerable wealth and status, Nora’s health was of concern to her family. She suffered from bouts of pneumonia, and they thought it prudent to look for a winter home further south in order to escape the harsh, Northeast winters. Florida seemed an obvious choice, and in 1896, the couple began scouring the state in earnest.

Their search eventually brought them to Melbourne, a small community at that time, home to just 500 families. Despite the rawness of the area, the lure of its natural beauty, proximity to the beach, and overall friendliness of the local people prompted the Wells to purchase 125 acres of land, which included extensive riverfront footage.

Before leaving Melbourne to return north, the Wells commissioned a local builder to begin construction on their new, seasonal home. The work took approximately nine months, and when they eagerly returned in 1897, it would have been amusing to witness Nora's reaction as she first set eyes on their new abode. At the time, Florida’s construction was mostly vernacular* in style. The house had been well constructed, but Nora was likely expecting something more elaborate. At the turn of the century, the flamboyant and eclectic Queen Anne architecture** was catching on in the Brooklyn area, and Mrs. Wells had probably taken a liking to the uniqueness of its style. Over the next few years, under her direction, the home transformed from a simple box style to the architectural beauty it still boasts today.

The Wells’ commitment to this beautiful home and to the Melbourne area in general became increasingly evident over the 30+ years that followed. Their wealth benevolently helped the city grow and improved the quality of life for all its residents. Their commitment to education in particular led to the fully funded construction of the city’s first library, the first high school, and an impressive auditorium that could seat 1,000 people. When you visit the home today, it is difficult not to be disheartened by its diminished condition. Family members had resided in the house up until 2005, when a particularly active hurricane season took its toll on the house. The enormous cost of restoration left the home all but abandoned for a decade. The trees, bushes and shrubbery continued to grow, unabated, obscuring it from sight from all directions. This beautiful structure with its important historical footprint was beginning to fade away from the community in which it had played such an important part.

Enter John Daly.

John was a local resident studying for a Master’s degree in Historic Preservation. During one of his assignments, he discovered Green Gables and asked if he could use it as a project. He fell in love with the house and its history. After months of research, he concluded that Green Gables was “the house worthy of being preserved.” His efforts, alongside a fairly small but dedicated team of likeminded volunteers, set up a nonprofit and kick started the laborious process of grant writing and fundraising in order to save the home.

Since then, the project has truly become a community-wide collaboration. When a local production company learned about the attempt to restore the house they immediately started work on a documentary in order to spotlight the efforts of all involved and raise awareness. The well-crafted and informative short film has become something of a focal point for the charity’s public outreach and has fueled its fundraising efforts. Last year, they celebrated raising the $500,000 needed to start renovations so that the house can begin a new chapter as an educational and special events venue. There is still plenty of work to be done, but the group in charge of the project has a clear vision for the house and its role in giving back to the community. “We all have a stake in preserving history,” says Susan Fallon, Vice President of the restoration committee. “Future generations have the right to learn, enjoy, and pass on the knowledge.” Rossetter House

North of Green Gables, a short car ride brings us to the historic district of Eau Gallie, situated just west of the causeway itself. This charming area spans a little over 14 acres and contains several notable museums and houses. Among these is the Rossetter House.

James Rossetter was a native Floridian, originally from Jacksonville. His work as a railroad agent for renowned American industrialist Henry Flagler eventually took him out of Jacksonville and down to Palm Beach where he settled with his wife, Ella, and their young children.

James’ passion, however, lay not on the train tracks, but on the water. Each time James travelled up and down the east coast from Jacksonville to Palm Beach, he felt drawn to the Eau Gallie area, its beautiful waterways and saw real potential in commercial fishing there.

The Eau Gallie area was not a magnet to all. It took the promise of a nice home for James to persuade Ella to move out of Palm Beach and join him. This promise instigated the establishment of Rossetter House. The house is believed to have been built in the 1890s, originally belonging to a wealthy New York industrialist who was using it as a winter home on the beach side of the Indian River. James liked the home so much that he purchased it only to have it disassembled, transported across the river, and reassembled on its current mainland site. When it was finally complete in 1908, it was impressive enough to convince Ella to join him.

James’ business interests began to expand beyond the fishing industry and into the lucrative area of oil distribution. In 1921, his life was sadly cut short by tuberculosis, leaving his eldest daughters, Caroline and Ella, to pick up the reins of the business in order to support the family.

Fortunately, his eldest daughter, Caroline, had already expressed a significant interest in the oil side of the business. Her father’s death propelled her to take on an active managerial role. Less than a year after her

father’s passing, at just 23 years of age, Caroline set off to Kentucky to meet with the board of Standard Oil to present an application to take over as the area distributor – truly one of the first women in a male-dominated field. Upon presenting her case, the board argued so loudly that Caroline could hear them from outside of the room. After extensive deliberation, they eventually agreed to allow her to take over as the first woman oil agent, albeit on a one-year trial basis.

At this point, Caroline and her sister Ella became the remarkable pillars of this family. Over the next several years, not only did Caroline become one of Standard Oil’s top performing distributors, but she began to expand her business interests beyond oil distribution, acquiring a range of commercial properties and a line of fully-owned filling stations. Her proven success as a competent businesswoman in her own right prompted her younger sister Ella to form The Rossetter Insurance Company, which also became highly profitable.

Despite many suitors, neither of the sisters ever married. Their commitment remained to their businesses - and to each other. They lived together in Rossetter House until late in their lives but never sold it, continuing to visit and maintain the property on a regular basis, always viewing it as their “true home.”

The success story of these two pioneering women in a patriarchal world should inspire all young women with career or business interests that fall outside of those expected of them through typical gender roles. In addition to their fortitude and success, it is the Rossetter sisters’ philanthropy and dedication to the prosperity of the locality that makes this beautiful house such a significant landmark. On Caroline’s passing in 1999, the sisters’ bequests included individual donations of one million dollars to local nonprofits. Alongside their many gifts, one of their wishes was that Rossetter House become a cultural venue that would tell the history of Eau Gallie and their family, which has been dutifully honored by the Florida Historical Society. With ample community support, including the help of the Cultural Support Grant Program, the house has been carefully restored to reflect its 1908 layout, and all the furniture and artifacts are originals from the family. The Rossetter House Foundation contains several historic properties, and together they form the Rossetter Museum, a beautiful landmark with an abundance of history. Lawndale

Our journey next leads us out of the Eau Gallie Arts District and heads north once more on Highway 1. Passing through the lights at Viera Boulevard, we approach the southernmost point of Rockledge Drive, one of the most scenic historic roads in Florida. The visible expanse of natural water coupled with the statuesque oak and pine trees that host many of the local Osprey leave no doubt as to why so many new settlers saw its potential as a homestead. Just south of Cocoa Village lies Lawndale, one of the last remaining examples of Queen Anne architecture in the area.

The house dates back to 1880 and originally belonged to the Williams family. After moving with his wife and son from Selma, Alabama, H.S. (Hiram) Williams quickly established himself as one of the most prominent citrus grove farmers in the area. Within six years of his arrival, he had completed the construction of the majority of Lawndale House as you see it today. Further additions were made in 1890. The expansion of the house was a metaphoric reflection of Hiram’s own proliferate influence in the community. He became postmaster for Rockledge in 1875, Brevard County Treasurer in 1879, and the first State Senator from Brevard in 1884. As a predominantly self-educated man, his commitment to education was significant. He built a schoolroom for his children that later served to educate others in the local area. Both his children, Sydney and Myra, went on to receive a college education, Myra being one of the first alumni of Rollins College.

The house was truly a home for the Williams family, and was passed down through generations right up until 1987, when it became impractical for Hiram’s granddaughter Margaret to maintain, and was placed on the market.

The “For Sale” sign outside this historical home piqued the interest of local resident Carole Pope. Her passion for restoration and preservation prompted an approach to the county suggesting that they purchase the house in order to preserve it as a cultural landmark. The county agreed and the application of grants ensued. Unfortunately, changes in administration took place and the project lost the attention of those in power. Several years passed, and the house began to show signs of neglect. Property developers started sniffing around. It was time for the preservation cavalry to step in again.

Pope rallied for a second time. She put a committee together, formed a corporation, and presented a business plan to

the county, proposing to spearhead the restoration of this architectural beauty. The county agreed to turn Lawndale over to the committee for $1 per year. Since 2001, Pope and a small group of volunteers have worked hard to obtain grants and donations in order to bring the Williams’ family house back to life. Their tireless efforts to restore the property revitalized this glorious representation of a family home in the 1890s. Many of the features and pieces on display are originals, the rest sourced from donations by charitable parties. The house officially opened to the public in December 2020.

The last 20 years have been a labor of love by all involved, but Pope is quick to point out that work is not finished. “There’s lots of things people can do to help us right now. We want volunteers. We want people who can help us with the inventory,” said Pope. There’s no doubt that work will continue to reinstate Lawndale as a valuable part of the region’s heritage, but from a visitor’s standpoint, the house is both aesthetically and culturally impressive as it stands.

Field Manor

Heading off the mainland and across the 520 causeway onto Merritt Island, the next part of our journey takes us to Field Manor. Turning left onto North Tropical Trail, a ten-minute drive will lead you to the gated entrance of the 45 acres of land that form part of the Field Manor Foundation. Though the main house is not visible from Tropical Trail, an unpaved road winds you through open fields, randomly interspersed with orange and mango trees until you eventually catch sight of this historic home and its stunning Indian River backdrop.

Built in 1880, Field Manor is the oldest home on Merritt Island. Originally from Macon, Georgia, the family’s patriarch John Moss Field fell in love with the area while he was fighting in the Second Seminole War. In the spring of 1868, the family packed their belongings and made their way south. Resembling so many settlers in Florida at that time, The Homestead Act of 1862 provided the ideal opportunity for Field to provide for his family. He took advantage of the 160 acres granted by the government that allowed applicants to purchase land for just $1.25/acre.

Field Manor was home to three generations of the Field family, many of whom grew tired of farm life and either left the homestead or returned to Macon. Eventually, it passed down to John’s grandson, Joseph Edward Jr., (Ed to his friends), who also had little interest in agricultural work. Leaving the farmer’s life behind, he became President of Travis Hardware in Cocoa Village in 1945 and remained there until his passing in 1983. The store remains open to this day. It was here that Ed met his true love, Alma Clyde Eastmoore, a widow, who was working for him at the hardware store. As Ed was already married, the relationship must have been grist for the local gossip mill. Nevertheless, love prevailed, eventually leading Ed to divorce his first wife, and on the very next day, he married Alma Clyde. It is Alma who impacted the ultimate fate of the home. As the couple had married later in life, they had no children together. Her vision was for the house and land to be preserved in order to represent pioneer life, agriculture, and the social history of the county. Her passing in 2013 established the funding for the Field Manor Foundation.

The home itself is unassuming in character. Its true beauty lies in its surroundings; 300 feet of beautiful river frontage, cool breezes from the water, and glorious views that encompass the 528 causeway and mainland. The addition of a large, covered outdoor seating area adjacent to the house makes it an ideal venue for wedding parties and other group celebrations, which are a regular feature at the site.

Unique to this historic property is the barn-like structure that sits across from the house itself, referred to as The Packing House. The building was one of the original

washing, grading, and packing facilities for all the citrus fruits grown on the homestead. The Packing House has changed structurally over the years, but if you peek inside the building today, it is truly an Aladdin’s Cave of early 20th century machinery. An original citrus sorting machine, a sugar cane press, and an old hand plough are just a few examples of what is currently in storage. The building and its contents would make an impressive mini museum, which could serve as an educational resource for school trips and visitors alike.

But a lot of TLC is needed first. The building is currently unstable and needs attention, which will require significant funding. Korinn Braden, the Executive Director of the site, has a vision for the future of The Packing House. “We’d like to enhance people’s visit by featuring all the contents, but first we need to get it structurally safe, clean it up, catalog everything that’s in there, and organize it all.” All of that will take time - and money. It is unlikely to be ready anytime soon, but plans for its restoration are in place. “Folks like the Fields didn’t build such a beautiful home and keep adding to it over 100 years without putting in all the work first,” said Braden. “The Packing House forms part of the overall history of the house, the Field family’s story, and deserves to play a role.” Sams House

A little further north on Merritt Island, situated at the upper part of North Tropical Trail, you will discover Pine Island Conservation Area. Under the stewardship of Brevard County’s Natural Resources, this 900-acre site is a credit to the county leaders who had the vision and foresight to facilitate the creation of a destination that incorporates layer upon layer of cultural discovery.

Patriarch John H. Sams relocated from South Carolina to take advantage of the 1860 Homestead Act. His family first settled in Eau Gallie, but found that successful citrus farming was more prevalent on the northern parts of Merritt Island and decided to move nearer to relatives that had already homesteaded there. Instead of rebuilding a home, their original cabin, now the oldest documented dwelling in Brevard County was rafted up the Indian River in 1878 to its present site. It is hard to imagine how this 600 square foot abode, not much bigger than a modern two-car garage, was able to provide adequate shelter for its owners’ large family of four adults and six children, but Kate Wells, a naturalist at the site, explains that it served as much more than that. “When they reassembled the cabin, it functioned as a school for the area. It also served as the local church. It truly was a busy, community gathering place.”

As John’s business continued to grow, so did his impact on the local community. His passion for education led to his service as the first Superintendent of Schools in Brevard from 1880 to 1920. Commercial citrus farming was arduous work, but John strived to ensure that his business prospered. His success afforded him the opportunity to build a more substantial home, and in 1888, a three bedroom, two-story house was constructed, which has become the focal point of Pine Island.

The county acquired the property in 1996 to preserve the site as a cultural landmark.

Renovations began on both the cabin and the main house with considerable effort to maintain as many of their original features as possible. As work progressed and the surrounding landscape was altered, other exciting discoveries were made. Hundreds of fossils of creatures, many now extinct, dating back twenty to thirty thousand years were found, including Mastodon and Mammoth. As earth was moved, excavation uncovered a wealth of history, revealing artifacts from the Native American era and even an ancient burial mound.

Pine Island forms part of the Environmentally Endangered Lands program (EEL), established in 1990 by citizens who voted to tax themselves to better protect areas of environmentally sensitive lands for conservation, passive recreation, and environmental education. Pine Island meets all these criteria. Not only does the site contain two historical properties of significance, but it also allows visitors the opportunity to enjoy over seven miles of walking trails, fossil displays, Native American exhibits, and a multitude of educational events for both children and adults. The cultural, historical, and scientific experience offered by Pine Island is invaluable, and visitors can enjoy its many features free of charge. Pritchard House

As you enter Titusville from the south on US1, Pritchard House is easy to spot. You will see its unmistakable colors, and the stature of a property that truly represents

the finest of Queen Anne style architecture. Without doubt, this is one of the most beautifully restored period houses in the region, accurately representing what the original home looked like at the turn of the 20th century thanks to the dedicated efforts of the North Brevard Heritage Association.

Originally owned by James Pritchard and his wife, Mary Boye, the house was constructed in 1891. James was an archetypal entrepreneur. After his attempt at citrus farming failed due to the Great Freeze of 1894-1895, he turned his attention to other enterprises. James’ versatility in business became his trademark. He worked in real estate, and then finance, opening the very first bank in Titusville. James established the first electrical plant in the city (later to become Florida Power and Light), helped to create the local waterworks, and even owned a hardware store. A lot of his success could be attributed to the type of man he was: friendly, charismatic, and respected by the community. He was a prominent pioneer citizen of Titusville right up until his death in 1926.

The house remained in the family for two subsequent generations until 2005, when Mary Schuster, James and Mary’s granddaughter, became too old to live there. Mary knew that the house would need to be sold.

It was local resident and cultural activist, Roz Foster, who encouraged Mary to think carefully before disposing of the property. Foster was already envisaging what a significant historical landmark the house would be for the city of Titusville and its residents. Utilizing her experience and community contacts, Foster worked skillfully with local politicians to save the house from what could have been inevitable destruction. Ultimately, a deal was struck with the city, which allowed Mary to move out and the North Brevard Heritage Foundation, led by Foster, to begin the restoration work.

And work it was. By that time, the property had undergone significant deterioration. Hundreds of thousands of dollars were needed to bring what had become known to the locals as “the gray house” back to its former splendor. Through the endeavors and persistence of the Foundation, a $350,000 grant was awarded by the State, and in 2006, the project had officially begun. Foster worked tirelessly over the next four years, overseeing the work of dozens of volunteers and companies that kindly donated so much of their time and resources to this impressive house.

Today, when you visit, you will no longer see a gray house. The colors depict the original facade and the interior contains many authentic architectural features. Period furniture has been thoughtfully added to ensure that visitors get a true feel of what life was like over 120 years ago.

Last holiday season, Pritchard House joined many of the aforementioned sites as part of a countywide “Inaugural Christmas Tour” of Brevard’s historic homes. Upon entering each of these cultural time capsules, visitors were able to experience the holidays as the residents had themselves decades ago. Each adorned with lavish seasonal decorations, the houses and their volunteer hosts offered a variety of seasonal refreshments to enjoy as guests immersed themselves in history. The popularity of the event has led to a community call and widespread consideration for the holiday tour to be held annually. Moore Center

As we leave Titusville and the Pritchard family’s beautiful home, the final leg of our historical journey takes us to one of the northernmost parts of the Space Coast, to the town of Mims. The Harry T. and Harriette V. Moore cultural center has one of the most tragic yet significant stories to tell in relation to Florida’s Civil Rights history.

Harry Moore, only son of Rosa and Johnny Moore, was born in 1905 in a very small area in Suwannee County called Houston.

Harry excelled academically, and upon graduation from Florida Memorial College (now University), he accepted a job as a teacher at Cocoa Jr. High School. During his time there, he met Harriette Simms. Harry instinctively knew that she was “the one,” and the couple married less than a year later in 1926.

Shortly after they were married, Harry became a teacher and principal at Titusville “Colored” School. It was around this time that Harry’s involvement with the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) and the Progressive Voters League (PVL) began in earnest. From his home in Mims, he organized the Brevard branch of the NAACP and campaigned rigorously for Black voter rights, equal pay for Black teachers, and the abolition of violence against the Black community. Harry, a man with a reputation of being quiet and reserved, had tremendous strength and tenacity when it came to defending basic human rights.

From 1937 until his death, Harry was involved in some of the highest profile cases of injustice and discrimination. His fight for equal pay for teachers resulted in dismissal of both him and his wife from their teaching positions. This was a clear message from the County that the Moore family were no longer wanted here. Despite losing his job and the dangers of being associated with Civil Rights organizations like the NAACP, Harry remained undeterred. He continued to make a name for himself as a prominent activist.

The Klu Klux Klan (KKK) were especially active in Florida at this time. Lynching and violence towards Black Americans in the South was commonplace. The KKK also contained some powerful and influential local people, allowing them to operate without the interference of police – and in some cases, with their assistance. Harry Moore’s name as an activist and a “trouble-maker” was provoking attention within this ruthless organization which some of his NAACP colleagues warned him about.

On December 25, 1951, at about 10:15 P.M., those warnings from friends became Harry Moore’s reality. Earlier that afternoon, the Moores enjoyed Christmas lunch and celebrated their 25th wedding anniversary with some of Harriette’s family, several hundred yards away from their own home. They returned to their house around 9 P.M., at which time Harriette went to bed while Harry stayed up to chat a little longer to his eldest daughter, Anna Rosalea, and his mother, Rosa, who were both staying with them for the holidays. Shortly thereafter, their final goodnights were said and within a few minutes of them all retiring, a huge explosion took place within the house. A bomb had been planted directly under Harry and Harriette’s bedroom. By the precision of the bomb’s location, it was indisputable that Harry had been the target. Harry died from his injuries on the way to the hospital, and Harriette passed away nine days later.

The tragic story of the Moores and their contribution to the civil landscape of America should never be forgotten. Today, you can find the Moore’s name on State Road 46, the Justice Building in Viera, and the post office in Cocoa. In 2013, they were finally inducted into the Florida Civil Rights Hall of Fame. Most recently, it was confirmed that the Moore’s story will now be formally included as part of Brevard Public Schools’ curriculum.

Take the time to visit the Moore Center, located on the family’s original home site. Enjoy the beautiful landscaped grounds on which it sits. Walk along the Civil Rights Trail. Wander around the replica of the Moore’s now infamous house. Browse the museum that pays tribute to a true hero of his time, and reflect on the contributions and significance of one of the bravest families in Florida’s history. n

Footnotes: *Vernacular architecture is characterized by the use of local materials and knowledge and is reflective of the climate. **Queen Anne Style architecture may include an asymmetrical façade, overhanging eaves, front porches, second-story balconies, and round, square or polygonal towers.

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