VETRITE – WORKING ON SITE Thanks to how easy Vetrite is to work, it is possible to work and cut Vetrite not only in the factory using the designated machines but also directly on the construction site, so to easily obtain Vetrite slabs ready to lay and having the desired dimensions and features. On-site treatment of Vetrite must be performed using adequate equipment that complies with the regulations that apply where the treatment takes place. Follow the instructions included in the installation manual for Vetrite (available on Vetrite’s website: https://www.sicisvetrite.com/ ). This document provides the guidelines to follow when performing some of the most common on-site treatments that can be performed onto Vetrite. This document must be necessarily read alongside the above-mentioned installation manual for Vetrite, the indispensable tool for whomever wishes to work, move, stock or lay Vetrite.
MANUAL CUTTING The simplest way to manually cut Vetrite is to use a glass cutter.
Being Vetrite made of two glass slabs, the manual cut must be performed on one side of the slab and then on the other. Perform the cut by dragging the glass cutter along the desired trajectory of the cut. Use a geometric square for glass in order to obtain a straight cut. In case of a particularly long cut, lubricate the trajectory of the cut by covering it in oil for glass (like that contained inside the glass cutter) so that performing the cut will result more fluid and overall easier.
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The manual cut must be performed in one single firm movement. Perform the cut by dragging the glass cutter from one side of the trajectory to the other, without interrupting the movement of the hand. Make sure to apply enough strength to actually cut the glass layer. However, even in case the cut is not performed in the most satisfying way, do not perform a second cut along the trajectory of the first cut. This would not be helpful in correcting the first cut anyhow, it would only have the effect of damaging the glass slab.
Once the cut has been made, it must be “opened” (meaning that the parts of the glass layer divided by the cut must be completely separated). This operation can be performed by hand or by using glass pliers.
Turn the slab upside-down and perform the same operation on the other side of the slab. Make sure that the trajectory along which the second cut is performed perfectly matches the position of the trajectory along which the first cut had been performed. Even in this case, “open” the cut following the instructions provided above.
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Once the cut has been “opened” on both sides of the Vetrite slab, cut the internal decorative film with a razor blade. Depending on the characteristics of the internal decoration, cutting it can be more or less easy.
CUTTING VETRITE USING A CIRCULAR SAW An alternative to the manual cut is the cut using a circular saw (also known as “clipper”). This cutting method is especially suggested when performing a particularly long cut for which manual cutting would be inconvenient. Keep the slab still and flat on the planar surface of the machine while the circular saw moves forward cutting the Vetrite slab.
Keep the blade of the saw constantly wet in order to avoid that the heat caused by the friction produced by the saw that cuts the slab damages the glass.
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Depending on the features of the clipper used to perform the cut, it may be possible to orient the saw so that it is not perpendicular to the surface of the slab and therefore cuts the slab by giving its edge a 45° angle (or, depending on what the machine allows, a different kind of angle).
POLISHING EDGES It is crucial to clean the edges that have been cut (both those cut using a glass cutter and those cut using a circular saw) in order to eliminate glass flanks and micro-fractures that could result in cracks that spread on the whole surface of the Vetrite slab. The edges can be polished using an angle grinder and diamond pads having different levels of granularity.
Start by using a pad with thick grain (granularity 100 or, in case the edge to be polished has particularly big flanks, even granularity 50) and move step by step to pads with thinner and thinner grain. The pads with a thick grain polish the slab’s edge by eroding the glass; those with thinner grain make the edge shinier without eroding the glass. Go from one pad to the one having a grain one-step thinner without leaping any step. For instance, after polishing the slab’s edge using a pad with granularity 100, move to the pad with granularity 200 and then to that with granularity 400 and
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so on; do not go directly from 100 to 400 without passing through the pad with granularity 200. If this procedure is performed correctly, the polished edge will look shiny and without any flank or microfracture.
HOLES, SLOTS AND NOTCHES It is possible to drill holes onto the surface of Vetrite using diamond bits (to chose depending on the desired size of the hole) and an electric screwdriver. In order to protect the integrity of the glass, pour water onto the place where the hole will be drilled and keep it wet when drilling, until the hole has been realized. Drilling holes onto Vetrite is the basis of the procedure to follow in order to make slots or notches such as those necessary in order to mount wall-mounted accessories onto the surface of Vetrite. Start by marking the perimeter of the area that you wish to remove. It is suggested to use tape instead of a marker, since the water that will be successively poured onto the slab is likely to erase the marker. Once the area to be removed is marked, drill holes where the corners of the slot or notch will be. Corners must be rounded (realizing them following the procedure outlined above results in 5
the corners to be rounded), since that sharp corners could easily result in cracks that spread on the whole surface of the Vetrite slab. It is suggested that every hole or corner drilled onto a Vetrite slab has a radius of at least 3 mm. As already mentioned above, keep the place where the hole is being drilled wet.
Complete the slot by cutting the slab using a portable circular saw so to connect the holes that have been drilled. Even in this case, keep the area where the cut is being performed constantly wet. Once that all the sides of the notch have been cut, it will be possible to remove the area of Vetrite that has been isolated, completing this way the slot or notch.
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Even when making a slot or notch it will be necessary to polish the edges that have been cut. This operation can be accomplished by using an angle grinder as the one described above or, in case the slot is too small making the angle grinder impossible to use, by polishing the edges using some abrasive sandpaper.
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