Costumes of ~yal qlldia India's former princely states are holding court again-to an audience of thousands of New Yorkers at "Costumes of India," a Festival of India exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The show, which opened December 20, 1985, and will run through August 1986, features more than 100 complete costumeselegantly worn by mannequins-on loan from some of the former princely states. Complementing the glittering selection are some contemporary saris from Varanasi and Travancore, accessories ranging from fans to jewelry, photographs and paintings ofthe royal families, a gentle sandalwood fragrance especially prepared for the exhibition by Guerlain, and an East-West blend of music. The exhibition has been organized by Diana Vreeland and Stephen Jamail of the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute, with Martand Singh coordinating from India. Singh pointed out that "there is not a piece of textile here that is not produced today." The techniques on show-tiedying, brocading, hand embroidery, intricate weaving-are still practiced. As Time magazine noted: "'Costumes of India' celebrates an ongoing tradItion-of craft, of coloration."
Left: A child's royal costume-a kurta of pink silk satin brocaded in white and lavender with gold embroidery and ribbon applique- worn with a matching pyjama and kantopi (the headgear); mid¡20th century, on loan from Begum Mebtab Zamani Ali Khan of Rampur. Far left: The angarkhan (a tunic) shows a penchant for the elaborate even in menswear-they have silver and gold brocade, quilting, with gold ribbon woven into the silk; mid19th century, on loan from Bhawani Singh of Jaipur.