November/December 2016

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Kykuit, the home of the Rockefellers, in Sleepy Hollow, New York

Historic Homes

Sotheby’s/Courtesy Wikipedia

JACQUELYN MARTIN © AP Images

Courtesy George Washington’s Mount Vernon

The Monumental Legacy of

George Washington

By STEVE FOX

November/December 2016

Mount Vernon,

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the first U.S. President’s estate, includes a mansion, lush gardens, farms and museum galleries.

https://span.state.gov

Above: A vibrant plantation in the 18th century, Mount Vernon is now one of America’s most visited historic homes.

Far left: Busts of America’s founding fathers encircle the Reading Room at Mount Vernon. The room is dedicated to the study of President Washington and the other founding fathers.

Left: “A View of Mount Vernon With the Washington Family,” a 1796 painting by Benjamin Henry Latrobe.

The Creativity of Concord

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Get Closer to Nature A Prominent American Home

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Set in Greystone

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Gilded Gardens

Nemours Estate

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22 Editor in Chief Craig L. Dicker

Printed and published by Jeffrey R. Sexton on behalf of the Government of the United States of America and printed at Thomson Press India Ltd., 18/35 Delhi Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana 121007 and published at the Public Affairs Section, American Embassy, American Center, 24 K.G. Marg, New Delhi 110001. Opinions expressed in this 44-page magazine do not necessarily reflect the views or policies of the U.S. Government.  Articles with a star may be reprinted with permission.

Those without a star are copyrighted and may not be reprinted.

Contact SPAN at 011-23472135 or editorspan@state.gov

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The Monumental Legacy of George Washington

MLK Birthplace

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A Gem in Hawaii

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In the Footsteps of Dr. King

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The Sculptor of Legends

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An Ode to Conservation

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Preserving the Past

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Presidential Abodes

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Cooking Connections

Courtesy The Bombay Canteen

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HARVEY BARRISON/Courtesy Flickr

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Reviewing Editor Branden L. Young

Editor Deepanjali Kakati Associate Editor Suparna Mukherji Hindi Editor Giriraj Agarwal Urdu Editor Syed Sulaiman Akhtar Copy Editors Bhawya Joshi, Shah Md. Tahsin Usmani Editorial Assistant Yugesh Mathur

Art Director Hemant Bhatnagar Deputy Art Directors Qasim Raza, Shah Faisal Khan Production/Circulation Manager Alok Kaushik Printing Assistant Manish Gandhi

Front cover: Photograph by Mick Hales/Courtesy Historic Hudson Valley

Research Services : Bureau of International Information Programs, The American Library

Cuisine

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DAVID SCHULMAN/Courtesy Flickr

Ford House

LINDA/Courtesy Flickr

CONTENTS

O

Over a period of 45 years, President Washington transformed the original structure of the mansion by adding two stories, the north and south wings, a porch overlooking the Potomac River, and a pediment and cupola.

Right: The small dining room at Mount Vernon is part of the original farmhouse, built in 1735. In 1785, the striking verdigris-green paint was added because President Washington believed the color to be “grateful to the eye.”

Center right: The central passage serves as the entry into the mansion. The staircase was added to the passage when the house was first enlarged in 1758-1759.

Far right: The Washingtons’ bedroom is located directly above the study in the private south wing. The room has a simple and functional design, as was suggested by First Lady Martha Washington. President Washington died of a throat infection in this room on December 14, 1799.

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ne of the most popular historic sites in the United States is Mount Vernon, the family home of the first U.S. President, George Washington. A working Virginia plantation in the 18th century, Mount Vernon now includes the mansion, whose renovation and expansion President Washington personally guided—even during the American War of Independence. It also has lush gardens, outbuildings where farm activities like blacksmithing and textile weaving are recreated, and museum galleries that portray different aspects of President Washington’s life.

President Washington was a surveyor, explorer, soldier, politician and visionary statesman whose tireless commitment to the newly created United

around the age of 15, President Washington was an innovative farmer and entrepreneur who worked hard, saved his money and expanded his land holdings. At the time of his death in 1799, his land holdings had expanded from about 809 hectares to approximately 3,237 hectares, consisting of five farms, with more than 1,214 hectares under cultivation. Over a period of 45 years, President Washington also transformed the original structure of the mansion by adding two stories, the north and south wings, a piazza (porch) overlooking the Potomac River, and a pediment and cupola. What is now called “the Mansion” has 21 rooms on three floors, including bedchambers, dining rooms, parlors, a

States earned him the title of “Father of His Country.” He was also a man of the earth. “[President] Washington considered himself first and foremost a farmer. So, the care and updates to Mount Vernon were incredibly important to him, not just from an emotional standpoint, but also from an economic one,” says Mount Vernon spokeswoman Melissa Wood.

The estate was named Mount Vernon by President Washington’s half-brother, Lawrence, who inherited it from their father. In 1754, President Washington leased the property from Lawrence’s widow and upon her death in 1761, inherited it. Although his formal education ended

study, a full cellar and President Washington’s last addition—a grand, two-story, multipurpose New Room, large enough to hold most houses that existed in Colonial-era Virginia. Many of the rooms are painted in vivid colors.

As with many historical figures, various myths have been accrued to President Washington. Most visitors ask about his “wooden dentures,” says Wood. “[President] George Washington did not have wooden dentures. He did have false teeth, which are on view. [President] Washington’s dentures were made from a lead base and consisted of human and animal bone.” The story of him throwing a silver dollar across the

those too old or sick to work to be supported by his estate in perpetuity. He was also the only slave-holder among America’s founding fathers to free his slaves. A new exhibition, “Lives Bound Together: Slavery at George Washington’s Mount Vernon,” which will run until September 30, 2018, at the estate, tells the story of his slaves.

Open 365 days a year, Mount Vernon now welcomes more than a million visitors annually, with an increasing number coming from abroad, says Wood. Re-enactors in Colonial-era costumes explain how life was in President Washington’s days, demonstrate skills used on the farm and

Washington, D.C., Mount Vernon is accessible by car, by shuttle from Old Town Alexandria in Virginia or by bus from the Huntington Station, both of which can be reached from Washington, D.C., by the Metrorail. Most visitors spend a day at Mount Vernon, with many making it part of a multi-day visit to the U.S. capital. The room rates for hotels or motels near the estate start at about $150 (Rs. 10,000 approximately). Mount Vernon has a comprehensive website that is very useful for organizing a visit.

Mount Vernon

www.mountvernon.org

Storytellers Video Series: George Washington’s Mount Vernon https://goo.gl/VIWgvG

Photographs courtesy George Washington’s Mount Vernon

provide insights into the lives of the Washingtons. On President’s Day, a national holiday, “General Washington” is on hand to accept birthday greetings from visitors.

Admission fees to Mount Vernon range from $20 (Rs. 1,330 approximately) to $12 (Rs. 800 approximately), depending on the visitor’s age.

There are a variety of tour options, including Gardens & Groves, Dinner for the Washingtons, Through My Eyes (re-enactors), and All the President’s Pups, a walking tour where visitors can bring along their dogs and learn about President Washington’s first dogs as well as those who live at the estate today.

Located about 24 kilometers south of

Steve Fox is a freelance writer, former newspaper publisher and reporter based in Ventura, California.

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Potomac River, which is more than 1.6 kilometers wide at Mount Vernon, is also a myth. As for chopping down a cherry tree as a six-year-old and owning up to it—an account of that alleged incident appears in an early biography of President Washington—historians say a kernel of truth may have sprouted into an enduring, and endearing, fable.

President Washington’s father, who died in 1743 when his son was 11, left the youngster 10 slaves in his will. President Washington subsequently purchased more slaves to work at the plantation. However, he struggled throughout his life with the institution of slavery. In his will, he stipulated that all his slaves be freed, with

TheCreativity

Travelers to this small Massachusetts town can explore the homes of some of America’s

By MICHAEL GALLANT

most famous and influential writers.

SMILLA4 /Courtesy Flickr

Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism/Courtesy Flickr

CHRIS DEVERS/Courtesy Flickr

Right: A view of the North Bridge, where the first rifle volley of the American Revolutionary War was fired on April 19, 1775.

Below: A statue of Henry David Thoreau in front of a replica of the cabin he lived in near Walden Pond while writing “Walden.”

Bottom: A stone boathouse located along the Concord River at The Old Manse.

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Left: The study at Ralph Waldo Emerson House where the writer used to spend a lot of time. The original contents of the room were moved to the Concord Museum and replaced by duplicate pieces around 1930.

Below: Emerson worked on some of his most influential works, including the essays, “SelfReliance” and “Nature,” at the Ralph Waldo Emerson House.

CONCORD

I

n his poem “Concord Hymn,” Ralph Waldo Emerson coined the phrase, “the shot heard round the world,” describing the first rifle volley of the American Revolutionary War. Both the shot and the writer who helped immortalize it are synonymous with Concord, Massachusetts. This rustic and history-steeped small town is known not just for the skirmishes fought in its woods and fields, but also for the immortal words composed within its borders.

Concord is a key location in U.S. history “because it was the site of the first battle of the American Revolution and because it was home to some of the principal writers of the American literary renaissance of the

Photographs by TravelUSA/Courtesy Flickr

of Concord

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Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism/Courtesy Flickr

19th century,” says David F. Wood, curator of the Concord Museum. Emerson was one of them.

Just decades after the United States emerged as an independent nation, Concord became home to a hugely influential group of American authors, philosophers and intellectuals known as Transcendentalists. This group, which included Emerson and his famous contemporary, Henry David Thoreau, emphasized in its writings the deep goodness of people, the unbridled power of independence and the beauty of self-reliance.

Thoreau is best known for his book, “Walden,” which was inspired by Walden Woods and Walden Pond in Concord, and reflects on simple living in natural surroundings. His essay, “Civil Disobedience,” which encourages individuals to resist unjust rulers by simply refusing to cooperate, is immensely popular in the worlds of political thought and philosophy.

Although both writers lived almost two centuries ago, visitors to Concord can still experience the world that inspired them, and see how and where they lived. Thoreau’s and Emerson’s former homes, as well as those of Louisa May Alcott (author of “Little Women”) and Nathaniel Hawthorne (author of “The Scarlet Letter” and “The House of the Seven Gables”), have been preserved and are open to visitors.

For first-time travelers to Concord, Wood recommends the Ralph Waldo Emerson House,

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HOLLIN.ELIZABETH/Courtesy Flickr

Above: Walden Pond, a U.S. National Historic Landmark, is considered the birthplace of the conservation movement.

Below: Orchard House, where Louisa May Alcott lived from 1858 to 1877 and wrote her 1868 classic, “Little Women.”

which retains “many of the furnishings that were present in the 18th and 19th centuries.” Located just east of Concord Center on Cambridge Turnpike, the house is open to visitors from midApril to October, Thursday to Sunday. It was in this house that Emerson worked on some of his most influential works, including the essays, “Self-Reliance” and “Nature.”

The house, however, was damaged by fire in 1872. During its restoration, Emerson and his family moved to the nearby The Old Manse, another preserved site that Wood recommends to travelers. “You can look through a window in the

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GREG M COOPER © AP Images JEREMIAH MERCURIO/Courtesy Flickr CHITOSE SUZUKI © AP Images

Manse and see the North Bridge where ‘the shot heard round the world’ was fired,” he says. “So that makes the Manse first among equals for me.”

Originally built in 1769 for Emerson’s grandfather, The Old Manse later became home to Hawthorne, who lived there with his wife, transcendentalist Sophia Peabody. Visitors to The Old Manse should be sure to look at Hawthorne’s old study, where etchings from the young couple, carved into the window panes, can still be read.

Other historic homes that Wood recommends include Alcott’s beautiful Orchard House, where she wrote “Little Women.” The Wayside, an expansive house where Alcott, Hawthorne and Margaret Sidney lived at different times, is also on Wood’s list. It was the real-life site of many events that inspired Alcott’s storytelling in “Little Women,” including the hiding of a fugitive slave.

While these homes of Concord give visitors a peek into history, their unique characters reflect the diversity of written works to come out of the town. “Emerson and Thoreau were both public intellectuals, and Alcott and Hawthorne were both popular novelists. So there is a great deal of difference in their published work,” says Wood. “I think what all four have in common is an expansive world view and a firm moral compass.”

Visitors eager to learn more about the American Revolution and Concord’s “literary revolution” should visit the Concord Museum. It houses an unmatched collection of historic and artistic American treasures, including the famous 1775 lantern used to signal Paul Revere of the approaching British army. Visitors can plan their day by visiting the museum’s website, which contains sample itineraries to help them make the most of their Concord explorations.

Michael Gallant is the founder and chief executive officer of Gallant Music. He lives in New York City.

Concord

http://concordma.gov

Concord Museum

www.concordmuseum.org

Ralph Waldo Emerson House http://goo.gl/2UiWj7

Orchard House

www.louisamayalcott.org

The Wayside

https://goo.gl/sqW78S

Walden Pond

http://goo.gl/wZfCO4

Top left: Re-enactors play British foot soldiers during a recreation of an American Revolutionary War battle in Concord. The annual event during the Patriots’ Day weekend in April also features parades and commemorative ceremonies.

Center left: The Wayside, a U.S. National Historic Landmark, was the home of Louisa May Alcott, Margaret Sidney and Nathaniel Hawthorne at different times.

Left: A drawing by May Alcott, sister of Louisa May Alcott, on a bedroom door at Orchard House.

While these homes of Concord give visitors a peek into history, their unique characters reflect the diversity of written works to come out of the town.

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Get Closer to

Above: Kykuit, located on a hilltop overlooking the Hudson River, was home to four generations of Rockefellers and is now a U.S. National Historic Landmark.

Right: A garden at

Kykuit designed by architect William Welles Bosworth.

Top far right: The Coach Barn houses classic automobiles and horse-drawn carriages.

Above right: A view of the music room.

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The large, open oculus in the first floor ceiling allowed the sound of music to resonate throughout the house.

Above far right: The underground galleries at Kykuit feature a series of Picasso tapestries.

DADEROT/Courtesy Wikipedia

MICK HALES/Courtesy Historic Hudson Valley

By STEVE FOX

J Photographs by MICK HALES/Courtesy Historic Hudson Valley

SHINYA SUZUKI/Courtesy Flickr

Nature

ohn D. Rockefeller, an oil industry pioneer who, at the start of the 20th century, was widely regarded as the richest man in America and, perhaps, the world, spent his later years distributing his wealth through various philanthropic programs. His legacy includes Kykuit, a spectacular estate originally constructed between 1906 and 1913. It was home to four generations of Rockefellers and is now a U.S. National Historic Landmark.

Kykuit (pronounced Kye-cut and derived from the Dutch word for lookout) is located about 88 kilometers north of New York City on a hilltop overlooking the majestic Hudson River. The estate encompasses a six-story stone manor with 40 artfilled rooms, set amidst lush gardens, displaying former Governor and Vice President Nelson A. Rockefeller’s exceptional collection of 20thcentury sculptures by Pablo Picasso, Henry Moore, Alexander Calder and other prominent artists. Kykuit is situated within about 81 hectares of Rockefeller family land and features dozens of fountains and landscaped terraces with breathtaking views. Its underground art galleries have Picasso tapestries and scores of other artworks. The immense Coach Barn houses classic

only the Rockefellers’ lives but also U.S. history, all in a stunning setting.

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KYKUIT

Kykuit provides a glimpse into not

SHINYA SUZUKI /Courtesy Flickr KRIS/Courtesy Flickr

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GARRETT ZIEGLER /Courtesy Flickr

Top: The interiors of Kykuit were designed to resemble an 18th century English country house.

Above: One of the fountains at the estate.

Right: Kykuit encompasses a sixstory stone manor and is situated within about 81 hectares of Rockefeller family land.

SHINYA SUZUKI/Courtesy Flickr

www.hudsonvalley.org/historic-sites/kykuit

Kykuit on National Trust for Historic Preservation https://savingplaces.org/places/kykuit Above: The Oceanus Fountain in the forecourt of Kykuit.

automobiles and horse-drawn carriages.

While the magnitude of Kykuit can make it difficult to imagine it as a family home, youngsters did indeed romp and wrestle there. After the family patriarch died in 1937, Kykuit became home to his heirs and the Rockefellers lived there until 1979.

“As a young child, I loved and appreciated Kykuit as my home. I never thought of it as a historic site to be preserved and protected,” writes Mark F. Rockefeller in the Kykuit guidebook, noting that “Dad (former U.S. Vice President Nelson A. Rockefeller) put some of the more breakable pieces of art in plexiglass cases.”

The Rockefellers are a pre-eminent American family, whose members have been enormously influential in various fields, including business, government, philanthropy, conservation and the arts.

Kykuit, which has been meticulously maintained for more than 100 years, provides a glimpse into not only the Rockefellers’ lives but also U.S. history, all in a stunning setting.

“Many visitors have a natural interest in gardens and landscapes, and are happy to discover how much time you can spend [on tours] outside enjoying them, as opposed to just seeing the house,” says Rob Schweitzer, vice president, communications and commerce for Historic Hudson Valley. The nonprofit group operates Kykuit and other nearby historic sites.

“Others are architecture buffs, who are keen on every detail of the house. Still others want to see the art, which can sometimes be a bit polarizing, as not everybody shares [Vice President] Rockefeller’s affinity for modern art.”

Kykuit grew over time, with John D. Rockefeller Jr., known as “Junior,” taking the lead in supervising the architects, designers and landscapers, who created the version of the manor house completed in 1908.

However, the elder Rockefeller and his wife had

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Kykuit: The Rockefeller Estate

reservations about the structure, and the father and son subsequently collaborated on an expanded and far more elaborate version, which was finished in 1913.

The interiors were designed to resemble an 18th century English country house, while the formal gardens and hilltop terraces featured pavilions, grottoes and, in the forecourt entrance, the Oceanus Fountain—a replica of a 1576 fountain created for the Boboli Gardens in Florence, Italy. Kykuit’s gardens are perhaps most spectacular in June, when the roses are in bloom.

In addition to being a historic destination, Kykuit also serves as a center for the Rockefeller Brothers Fund, which works to advance “social change that contributes to a more just, sustainable and peaceful world.”

Kykuit is open Thursday through Sunday, from May 1 to September 30; daily, except Tuesdays, in October; and again, Thursday through Sunday in November. Guests who go to Kykuit by a shuttle bus from a nearby visitors center can see the estate via several tours at prices ranging from $23 (Rs. 1,500 approximately) to $40 (Rs. 2,600 approximately). The most popular is the three-hour Grand Tour, which includes everything there is to see at Kykuit, says Schweitzer. Many visitors also choose the Classic Tour, which covers the highlights of the estate, including the main floor of the house, the subterranean art galleries, the Inner Garden and West Terrace, spectacular views of the Hudson River and the Coach Barn. Most visitors come by car as part of a visit to the Hudson Valley, but train service from New York City is also available. Lodging in the area starts at about $100 (Rs. 6,600 approximately) a night, says Schweitzer.

Steve Fox is a freelance writer, former newspaper publisher and reporter based in Ventura, California.

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A Prominent American Home

KEN LUND /Courtesy Flickr

By HILLARY HOPPOCK

M

eandering down a country road toward what appears to be a group of English cottages might give first-time visitors to the Edsel & Eleanor Ford House a mistaken impression. At first glance, the lakeside estate in Grosse Pointe Shores, Michigan, seems quaint, casual and unplanned.

In reality, every detail of the 60-room mansion and the 35 hectares of gardens, which make up the Lake St. Clair estate, was meticulously designed by Edsel and Eleanor Clay Ford before the family moved in on Christmas

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1929. Closer scrutiny of this prominent American family estate reveals a consistent trait—a deep respect for the past coupled with an embracing of modern innovations.

Edsel had already succeeded his father, Henry Ford, as the president of Ford Motor Company in 1919, when he traveled to England with his wife, Eleanor, and architect, Albert Kahn. The goal was to plan a home for his family, which included three sons and a daughter. “They fell in love with the slate roofs, leaded glass windows and vine-covered exteriors of the Cotswolds

Photographs courtesy Edsel & Eleanor Ford House

The Edsel &

FORD HOUSE

Above: The Edsel & Eleanor Ford House, designed by architect Albert Kahn, was inspired by the vinecovered stone houses in the Cotswolds, a rural area in south central England.

Top right: A view of the bedroom of Henry Ford II, the eldest son of Edsel and Eleanor Ford.

Above center right: The Ford House showcases various exhibits on automobiles.

Above right: The Fords moved into the estate with their four children on Christmas 1929.

Right: The main gate of the estate.

RENE_BEIGNET/Courtesy Flickr

displays a deep respect for the past combined with an embracing of modern elements.

JOHN KANNENBERG/Courtesy Flickr

Eleanor Ford House

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Top right: A view of the drawing room at the Edsel & Eleanor Ford House.

Above: One of the four Modern Rooms, featuring an indirect lighting method, leather and wood grained walls, and a Steinway piano built to match the style of the room.

Right: The library features

a stone chimneypiece and 17th-century oak paneling from a country estate in Northamptonshire county in East Midlands, England.

Far right: The house contains elements from six English estates, including a circa 1600 staircase from Lyveden Old Bield Manor in Northamptonshire.

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Photographs courtesy Edsel & Eleanor Ford House

village cottages,� says Ann Loshaw, vice president for education and visitor experience at the Historic Ford Estates.

A tour of the Ford House reveals an interesting juxtaposition of antiquities with modern elements. Interior fittings were repurposed from medieval and 17th-century English manor houses and retrofitted for the Ford home. A stone chimneypiece and 17th-century oak paneling from a country estate in Northamptonshire county in East Midlands, England, were fitted to the walls of the library, creating an intimate family setting for Eleanor’s favorite room. Stained glass window medallions from the 15th and 16th centuries, as well as large squares of the recessed carved wood paneling dismantled from an Elizabethan mansion, were brought over from England

Diego Rivera to paint his famous “Detroit Industry Murals” for the Detroit Institute of Art, “and fought to keep the murals in their original form regardless of their political interpretation,” says Loshaw, referring to the destruction of Rivera’s “Man at the Crossroads” mural at New York City’s Rockefeller Center by Nelson Rockefeller because of its controversial political content.

The Edsel & Eleanor Ford House is listed with the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. Its designation as a National Historic Landmark is pending.

A lovely respite from the world, the Ford estate serves as a venue for the Detroit Symphony Orchestra, as well as educational and local culinary events. Visitors can take guided house tours, roam around the grounds

“Jensen constructed a peninsula called Bird Island at Gaulker Point on the lake to encourage native wildlife along the migration route of birds going north in the spring,” says Loshaw. “Those native plants act as natural filters, and clean water continues to drain back into Lake St. Clair to this day.”

The Fords acquired works by artists PierreAuguste Renoir, Edgar Degas, Hans Holbein the Younger, Fra Angelico, Vincent van Gogh and Sir Joshua Reynolds, among others, for their home. Much of their collection was bequeathed to the Detroit Institute of Art by Eleanor at her death in 1976, and high-quality reproductions now hang on the walls of the Ford House. The Fords also commissioned

and gardens, enjoy a delicious meal at the Cotswold Cafe or have a picnic outdoors. The playhouse built by the Fords for their daughter, Josephine, and exhibits in the garage and cottage are other attractions. The cost of admission and tours range from $5 (Rs. 330 approximately) to $15 (Rs. 1,000 approximately) for adults. There are discounted rates for children and seniors. Tours are offered from Tuesday to Sunday, and tickets are sold on a first come, first served basis at the Visitors Center on the day of the tour.

Below left and bottom left: Landscape architect Jens Jensen designed the estate’s grounds in the 1920’s to transform the former farmland into a meadow of native plants and trees.

Below: A bronze sculpture of the Fords was unveiled in June 2016 to mark their 100th wedding anniversary.

KEN LUND/Courtesy Flickr

Photographs courtesy Edsel & Eleanor Ford House

during the construction of the Ford House.

In the 1930’s, the Fords hired industrial designer Walter Dorwin Teague to redesign four rooms in the house, known as the Modern Rooms. These featured a new indirect lighting method, leather and wood grained walls, and a Steinway piano built to match the wood and style of the rooms. The Fords also worked with Teague to redesign bedrooms for their sons, with built-in radios and added brass and copper wall sconces in the Art Déco style.

“People do think it looks like the 1950’s,” notes Loshaw, citing them as evidence of the Fords’ progressive taste.

Jens Jensen, renowned for his naturalistic landscapes, designed the estate’s grounds in the 1920’s to transform the former farmland into a meadow of native plants and trees.

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Hillary Hoppock is a freelance writer, former newspaper publisher and reporter based in Orinda, California.

Edsel & Eleanor Ford House www.fordhouse.org

Edsel & Eleanor Ford House on the National Register of Historic Places www.nps.gov/NR/ travel/detroit/d2.htm

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The historic mansion in Beverly Hills functions as a popular filming location and city park.

Set in Greystone

Photographs by ANDREW HITCHCOCK/Courtesy Flickr

ANGIE HU/Courtesy Flickr

By CANDICE YACONO

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living space and about seven hectares of grounds. Known for its formal English-style gardens, the estate has also housed stables, kennels, tennis courts, a fire station, a lake and waterfalls.

The architecture of the estate is a mix of various styles, including Gothic and neoClassical. The living room of the mansion is famous for its Minstrel Gallery, where musicians performed on a balcony high above the party guests. Fifteen staff members used to

ANGIE HU/Courtesy Flickr

M

ost people outside Los Angeles would have never heard of Beverly Hills’ Greystone Mansion, but the odds are high that they have seen it.

The 55-room Tudor Revival mansion, with its curving grand staircase and its extensive grounds, has been the set of countless films and television shows, the fees for which have helped provide for the property’s upkeep.

Designed by architect Gordon B. Kaufmann, the estate comprises over 46,000 square feet of

GREYSTONE MANSION

Below and left: The 55-room Greystone Mansion, also known as the Doheny Mansion, was the most expensive home built in California at the time of its construction in 1928.

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Top: Student cinematographer Peter Santoro finds the right camera angle as student director Henri Revay assists him while making a film at Greystone Mansion in July 1974. The city of Beverly Hills leased the mansion to the American Film Institute from 1965

to 1982.

Above: Over 20 artists displayed their experimental artworks at the mansion during the LAXART Gala in 2014.

Right: American Film Institute students discuss their projects in front of the mansion in July 1974.

Above top right: The

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mansion’s hidden bar that was used during Prohibition, a nationwide Constitutional ban on alcoholic beverages from 1920 to 1933.

Above right: A 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air Trike & Buggy at the 2013 Greystone Mansion Concours d’Elegance car show.

Photographs by GEORGE BRICH © AP Images

TODD WILLIAMSON © AP Images/Invision

live on two floors of the mansion’s east wing.

The master bedroom, located in the west wing, has its own sitting room, two bathrooms, a massage room and a dressing room.

Visitors can stroll the winding paths and hidden gardens of the grounds any day and enjoy the estate’s incredible views of Los Angeles and the ocean. The mansion’s interiors, however, are open only for special events like ranger-led tours and Music in the Mansion, or events sponsored by The Friends of Greystone, a nonprofit organization which raises funds to restore, preserve and protect the Greystone Mansion.

Greystone is also known as the Doheny

CAROLYN/Courtesy Flickr

National Register of Historic Places.

The estate hosts various local events like the Beverly Hills Flower & Garden Festival, the Greystone Mansion Concours d’Elegance car show, as well as high-end weddings and gala balls. One favorite, for nearly 15 years, has been “The Manor,” an annual murder mystery play based on the Doheny murder scandal, in which the audience travels through the house with the actors as the play progresses.

Some of Greystone’s other highlights include a movie theater and a billiard room.

The mansion has a hidden bar that was used during Prohibition, a nationwide Constitutional ban on alcoholic beverages

Greystone Mansion

www.greystonemansion.org

A Cinematic Tour of Greystone Mansion

https://goo.gl/J0e1ry

Few of the movies shot Greystone

at

 “Forever Amber,” 1947  “Ghostbusters II,” 1989  “The Bodyguard,” 1992  “Indecent Proposal,” 1993  “The Big Lebowski,” 1998  “Rush Hour,” 1998  “X-Men,” 2000  “Austin Powers in Goldmember,” 2002  “Charlie’s Angels: Full Throttle,” 2003  “Spider-Man,” 2002; “Spider-Man 2,” 2004; and “Spider-Man 3,” 2007  “National Treasure: Book of Secrets,” 2007  “There Will Be Blood,” 2007  “The Social Network,” 2010  “The Muppets,” 2011  “Star Trek: Into Darkness,” 2013

REX GRAY/Courtesy Flickr

bribery incident. The courts ruled at the time that Plunkett killed Doheny in a murdersuicide, but speculations about the case exist to this day. The murder case provided some of the inspiration for the Daniel Day-Lewis film, “There Will Be Blood,” which was filmed in part on the estate.

Doheny’s widow, Lucy, continued to live in the house with her second husband, Leigh M. Battson, until 1955. She sold the house and grounds separately, and the city of Beverly Hills stepped in to prevent the mansion’s slated demolition in 1965 by purchasing the property. It became a city park six years later and in 1976, the estate was listed in the U.S.

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Mansion, in honor of the family that commissioned and owned it. The mansion was a wedding gift from oil baron Edward Lawrence Doheny to his only surviving child, Edward “Ned” Lawrence Doheny, Jr. When the estate was built in 1928, it was the most expensive home in California, with a construction cost of over $3 million (Rs. 20 crores approximately)—a staggering sum at the time.

Tragedy struck in February 1929, only five months after the 36-year-old Doheny and his family moved into Greystone. Doheny and his childhood friend and secretary, Hugh Plunkett, were found dead in a guest bedroom. They were both allegedly involved in a high-profile

from 1920 to 1933. There’s also a two-lane bowling alley, which was renovated by the makers of “There Will Be Blood” for the film.

Greystone is open daily, except on Thanksgiving and Christmas Day. Visitors are advised to confirm the opening time with the estate, which may be affected by frequent wedding and special event bookings. Parking and admission to the grounds are free. Park ranger tours of the mansion and grounds are available on the first Saturday of the month, December through April.

Candice Yacono is a magazine and newspaper writer based in southern California.

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

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ROBERT LYLE BOLTON /Courtesy Flickr

Gilded

Built in 1910 by Alfred I. du Pont, Nemours manor resembles a French château, spread across five floors.

22 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Gardens

By ANNE WALLS

Nemours Estate

boasts of the largest formal French gardens in North America and a spectacular château.

www.nemoursmansion.org

History of the du Pont family https://goo.gl/LGZGZs

The Return of Nemours

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Nemours Estate

NEMOURS ESTATE

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I

f you’re looking to get a peek into the lifestyles of the rich—the really, really rich—there’s no better way than taking tours of historic private estates that are now open to the public. Hearst Castle in California and Biltmore Estate in North Carolina are two of the most famous examples of private-opulence-turned-public-gawking sites, with thousands of visitors showing up every day.

But, if you want to visit an estate that boasts of sprawling French gardens and a spectacular château to boot, head to Wilmington, Delaware, and visit Nemours Estate, built by industrialist and philanthropist Alfred I. du Pont in 1910.

Sitting on 81 hectares of carefully crafted gardens and meadows, this 105-room estate is now open to the public and is quite a sight to behold.

The du Ponts were French aristocrats who immigrated to the United States in the early 1800’s, right after the French Revolution, and quickly established themselves alongside the Vanderbilts and Carnegies as industrial giants.

They started with a gunpowder manufacturing company, E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Company, and went on to include vast plastic and chemical empires. The company scientists invented nylon,

24

Kevlar and Teflon. At their peak, companies run by the du Pont family employed up to 10 percent of Delaware’s population.

The du Ponts settled near the Brandywine River in Delaware and developed most of the surrounding area. In fact, a stretch of Delaware’s Route 141 is known as DuPont Historic Corridor, since it is bordered on both sides by estates, golf courses, gardens, an airport and a children’s hospital—all built by the du Ponts.

But the crown jewel of their empire is the 1,200-hectare country estate built by du Pont as a gift for his second wife, Alicia. Du Pont, the great-great-grandson of Pierre Samuel du Pont de Nemours, the du Pont family patriarch, left the Massachusetts Institute of Technology before graduating to work at the family’s gunpowder manufacturing plant in the Brandywine area. He went on to register over 200 patents related to his work.

Nemours Estate is named after the French town associated with Pierre Samuel du Pont de Nemours. Carrère and Hastings, one of the most renowned Beaux-Arts architectural firms in the United States, designed the mansion and grounds in the Louis XVI-Rococo style of French

pavilion surrounded by woods. At the center of it all is an elaborate maze garden with a central statue of Triton and Neptune, gilded with 23-karat gold leaf. Not surprisingly, the statue is named “Achievement.” There’s also a reflection pool that is more than 43,000 square feet large, with 157 jets shooting water 12 feet into the air.

The mansion underwent a three-year, $39 million (Rs. 260 crores approximately) renovation in 2008. Nemours Estate is now open for visitors from May 1 to November 13 and from November 19 to January 8 on all days, except Mondays, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Although the estate tours are self-guided, trained staff members in selected locations orient visitors, provide information and answer questions. Maps to the gardens and grounds are available at the visitor center. Ticket prices range from $6 (Rs. 400) to $100 (Rs. 6,600), depending on the visitor’s age and the time of the visit. Make sure you wear walking shoes, so you can comfortably explore the sprawling mansion and the gardens.

Left and below second from far left: The Sunken Gardens at the Nemours Estate, with the colonnade in the background, were built between 1928 and 1932.

Below far left: The estate’s formal French gardens have fountains, pools, a statuary and a pavillion surrounded by woods.

Below left: A beautiful parterre, an ornamental garden with paths between the beds, at the estate.

Below: “Achievement,” the statue of Triton and Neptune at the center of the maze garden, is gilded with 23-karat gold leaf.

DENISBIN /Courtesy Flickr

Photographs by PETER MILLER/Courtesy Flickr

Anne Walls is a writer and filmmaker based in Los Angeles, California.

ROBERT LYLE BOLTON/Courtesy Flickr

architecture. The firm, which was located in New York City, also designed the Frick Collection in New York City and the New York Public Library.

Nemours manor was built to resemble a French château, spread across five floors. Du Pont spared no expense, filling the house with rare French 18th-century furniture and an impressive collection of works of art, antiques and tapestries.

One of the largest spaces in the manor is the reception hall, where the du Ponts used to celebrate Christmas. The dining room boasts of a 25-foot-long table and a chandelier believed to have come from Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna where Marie Antoinette, queen of France, spent much of her childhood. There are artworks and paintings dating back as far as the 15th century, but most came courtesy of European masters and contemporary American painters and sculptors.

Du Pont also made sure there was plenty of room for fun, with a billiards room, single-lane bowling alley and a garage full of antique cars.

Where the estate really shines, however, isn’t indoors, but outside—it has the largest formal French gardens in North America.

The grounds are beautifully landscaped with greenery, fountains, pools, a statuary and a

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26 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Photographs by LINNY MORRIS/Courtesy Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art

Shangri La reflects Islamic architectural traditions from India and the Middle East.

A Gem in

S

Hawaii

By NATASA MILAS

Left: The dining room of Shangri La is Doris Duke’s interpretation of royal tents used by the Mughal emperors of India. Various Islamic artworks are on display inside the room.

She grew up in New York City and, at a very early age, inherited a large sum of money, which provided her with the means to travel around the world, engage in a variety of philanthropic endeavors and pursue her passion for art collection. In February 1935, Duke married U.S. diplomat James H. R. Cromwell and went on an extended honeymoon around the world. The couple’s travels through the Middle East and South Asia had a profound influence on Duke as she fell in love with Islamic art. The newlyweds spent the last part of their honeymoon in Hawaii, where they stayed for four months.

SHANGRI LA

hangri La, the historic home of Doris Duke, encompasses the tropical beauty of the Hawaiian islands with the architectural designs of the Islamic world. Located in Honolulu, this center for Islamic arts and culture integrates a 14,000square-foot house, a pool, a playhouse, courtyards, terraces, gardens, and numerous water features.

Duke, once referred to as the richest girl in the world, was an American philanthropist and art collector. She was the daughter of James Buchanan Duke, a tobacco and electric power magnate, and granddaughter of Washington Duke, after whom Duke University in North Carolina is named.

Above: The Playhouse, a poolside pavilion at Shangri La, is inspired by the Chehel Sotoun palace in Isfahan, the capital of Isfahan Province in Iran.

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Bottom: A Syrian ceiling lamp in the Mughal Suite, which opened to the public in 2014.

Bottom center above: A Taj Mahal-inspired jali, a perforated marble screen, inside the Mughal Suite.

Bottom center: An ornate sink faucet handle in the bathroom of the Mughal Suite.

Bottom right: Custom-made tiles from Iran used in Shangri La’s central courtyard, the Playhouse and the living room portico.

Shangri La

www.shangrilahawaii.org

Doris Duke

Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art www.ddfia.org

28 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

GRAEME WOOD/Courtesy Flickr

https://goo.gl/PmM3yi Photographs by AUDREY MCAVOY © AP Images

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LINNY MORRIS/Courtesy Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art

Below: The living room of Shangri La has many large-scale architectural features, custommade in Morocco in 1937, including a painted and coffered ceiling, and a stylized stucco pseudo-inscription frieze below.

Sueoka recommends a stop at the Damascus Room in particular. “The walls and ceilings are covered with really lustrous and intricate 18thcentury wooden paneling that’s decorated in a raised-relief technique called ajami. The technique incorporates metal leaf, so the effect in the darkened room is that the panels appear to shimmer.

The paneling would originally have been used in a reception room in a Damascene courtyard house, a place where people would entertain guests. So the room is set up to evoke this experience, with divans against the walls and prized possessions on display in the vitrines.”

Another gem is the Mughal Suite. Opened to the public in 2014, it was inspired by the architecture of the Taj Mahal and the Mughal dynasty. “To me, this space really shows how harmoniously Shangri La’s Islamic-inspired architecture is incorporated into the Hawaiian landscape,” says Sueoka. “For instance, the south-facing pierced-marble jalis, which are at the same time very massive and very delicate, let in the trade winds and the sounds of the ocean. When you’re inside the room, you feel like you’re in Agra, and when you look out through the screens, you can see the Pacific Ocean.”

The word, Shangri La, evokes a mythical place, a sort of man-made Eden. As Sueoka notes, “I think, perhaps paradoxically, that sense of idyllic beauty is preserved through constant change and transformation. Doris Duke transformed many spaces at Shangri La during her lifetime and we try to maintain that spirit of reinvention. But even subtler changes and shifts—for example, several families of terns nesting in the fig tree beside the Mughal Garden—can energize the space and keep it evergreen.”

Natasa Milas is a freelance writer based in New York City.

“

Doris Duke’s trip through India in 1935 was transformative and, in a lot of ways, it represents the beginning of her lifelong relationship with Islamic art.

”

Below and below left: The Mughal Suite was inspired by 17th-century Mughal monuments, including the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort.

THOMAS TUNSCH/Courtesy Flickr

AUDREY MCAVOY © AP Images

Shangri La was built from 1936 to 1938 and it became Duke’s Hawaiian home, which she filled with works of Islamic art she collected and commissioned from India, Morocco, Syria and Iran.

“Doris Duke’s trip through India in 1935 was transformative and, in a lot of ways, it represents the beginning of her lifelong relationship with Islamic art,” says Dawn Sueoka, archivist at the Honolulu Museum of Art. She worked as an archivist at Shangri La and the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art from 2009 to September 2016. “There is a lovely black-and-white photograph of her framed by the cusped arches of the Moti Masjid [in Agra] that encapsulates this moment really well. Soon after that photo was taken, Duke commissioned the Mughal bedroom and bathroom suite. She returned to India many times throughout her life, and her travels there had a significant and lasting impact on the house and the collection.”

Duke spent 60 years building the collection of Islamic art displayed at Shangri La, which opened to the public in 2002. It is managed by the Doris Duke Foundation for Islamic Art, which was created in 1998 in accordance with Duke’s will to promote the study of Islamic arts and culture. The Honolulu Museum of Art serves as the orientation center and starting point for Shangri La tours, which are offered regularly from Wednesday to Saturday. By offering guided tours for visitors, residences for scholars and artists, and lectures and performances, the museum strives to improve the understanding of the Islamic world through art.

Visitors to Shangri La can take guided tours of Duke’s Hawaiian home, stroll through the beautifully decorated living room, dining room, the Mughal Suite, the Damascus Room and the Playhouse, all while breathing the tropical air of the Pacific Ocean.

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In the Footsteps of Dr . King

By KIMBERLY GYATSO

Honor history and equality with a trip to the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site.

O

ne of the most important figures of positive social impact in U.S. history is Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. As a leader of the civil rights movement, he helped the United States move on from a past checkered by discrimination and segregation. You can experience the life and work of the man whose dream altered the course of history by visiting the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site in Atlanta, Georgia.

Nearly a million people visit every year to learn about, be inspired by and pay their respects to Dr. King’s legacy. Admission to the site is free of charge and you can start your tour at the Visitor Center for a brief orientation of the site, Birth Home tour registration, video programs and the “Children of Courage” exhibit. There are also special exhibits in the center’s D.R.E.A.M. Gallery that change from time to time.

Next, you can head to the Peace Plaza, in front of the Visitor Center. Bordered by the Martin Luther King, Jr. “I Have a Dream” World Peace Rose Garden, the plaza includes a beautiful fountain and the Behold Monument.

Photographs by WALLY GOBETZ/Courtesy Flickr

Courtesy National Archives & Records Administration

Above: Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. in his office with a portrait of Mohandas K. Gandhi on the wall. Dr. King was inspired by Gandhi’s philosophy of nonviolence.

Below: A statue of Gandhi at the Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site.

30 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

www.martinlutherking.org

Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historic Site

Right: The two-story frame Queen Anne style Birth Home of Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., where he spent the first 12 years of his life.

Below: The 125-footlong Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial Mural, “Dreams, Visions and Change,” at the Peace Plaza chronicles the story of Dr. King and the civil rights movement.

Below right: Tomb of Dr. and Mrs. King at The King Center.

The King Center www.thekingcenter.org

Kimberly Gyatso is a freelance writer based in San Francisco, California.

MLK BIRTHPLACE

lizing heaven, and reciting the words, “Behold the only thing greater than yourself,” inspired Morelli’s work.

After visiting the Peace Plaza, go to The Martin Luther King, Jr. Center for Nonviolent Social Change, also known as The King Center. It has been a global destination, resource center and community institution for over a quarter century.

Mrs. King established the center in 1968 to carry forward her husband’s vision of world peace and equality through educational and community programs. It is now being revitalized as a more engaged educational and social change institution.

At the center, visit the final resting place of Dr. and Mrs. King and see the exhibits on them, as well as Mohandas K. Gandhi.

Next up, visit Dr. King’s spiritual home, the Historic Ebenezer Baptist

Church, where he was baptized and gave a trial sermon that led to him being ordained as a minister at the age of 19. In 1960, he became a co-pastor of the church and remained in that position until his death. The church was the site of many important meetings and rallies during the country’s civil rights movement. Family, friends and more than 60,000 followers paid their final respects to Dr. King there on April 9, 1968.

Also, you can walk in Dr. King’s footsteps with a free, ranger-led tour of his Birth Home, where he spent the first 12 years of his life.

On your way out, stop by the National Historic Site’s bookstore to pick up souvenirs, posters, books, stamps and other items related to Dr. King and the civil rights movement.

Travel tip: Check out the site’s Current Conditions webpage to see if there are any closures during your visit.

GEORGE E PUVVADA/Courtesy Wikipedia

The garden is an artistic interpretation of Dr. King’s life and ideals of peace and nonviolence. It features 185 different kinds of roses and is one of five major rose gardens established around the world

by International World Peace Rose Gardens. It also showcases the winners of an annual contest in which school students from across the United States and other countries submit poems on peace.

The Behold Monument, by American sculptor Patrick Morelli, is a bold rendering of hope for the future and is not to be missed. The sculpture was a tribute from Dr. King’s wife, Coretta Scott King, to her late husband. It serves as an inspiration for all who fight for dignity, social justice and human rights.

The ancient African ritual of lifting a newborn child toward the sky, symbo-

www.nps.gov/malu

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Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.

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is the historic summer home of Daniel Chester French, who is widely regarded as America’s foremost sculptor of public monuments.

KINDRA CLINEFF/Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

Chesterwood

The Sculptor of Legends

E

By MICHAEL GALLANT

very year, millions of travelers to Washington, D.C., look in awe at the massive sculpture of President Abraham Lincoln, sitting imposingly in the middle of the Lincoln Memorial on the National Mall. But those who venture further north along the country’s East Coast, can journey deeper into the history of the man responsible for turning a raw boulder of marble into such an iconic piece of presidential artwork.

The artist, Daniel Chester French, lived from 1850 to 1931 and is widely regarded as America’s foremost sculptor of public monuments, says Donna Hassler.

Hassler is the executive director of Chesterwood, the former summer home, studio and gardens of French, located in the northeast United States. For nearly half a century, Chesterwood has been maintained and preserved by the U.S. government, and is open

32 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

to visitors from around the world.

Why should travelers make their way to Chesterwood? Among other things, the estate itself is a lush, unique, living work of art.

“Daniel Chester French ‘sculpted’ the landscape at Chesterwood to include his studio and residence in a tranquil setting, with breathtaking vistas of the Berkshire Hills,” says Hassler. “The buildings were designed by the architect of the Lincoln Memorial, Henry Bacon, to reflect their mutual interest in Italianate villas and gardens.”

The studio at Chesterwood, where French did his most legendary work, holds the largest collection of creations by a single sculptor within the United States, including the six-foot final plaster model of the seated President Lincoln for the Lincoln Memorial. “Daniel Chester French completed over 100 monuments in his lifetime, and many of his

www.nps.gov/linc/

Historic Artists’ Homes & Studios

DADEROT/Courtesy Wikipedia

Lincoln Memorial

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Chesterwood

http://chesterwood.org/

preliminary models are on exhibition in his studio,” says Hassler. These include several equestrian figures and his final work, a masterpiece in marble titled, “Andromeda.”

In her eight years at Chesterwood, Hassler has fallen in love, particularly, with the studio and the studio piazza which, she says, has “a spectacular view of Monument Mountain. You can easily sit for hours on the piazza and forget about the passing of time.”

Steeped in history, Chesterwood became a public site after French’s daughter, Margaret French Cresson, donated the estate and grounds to the National Trust for Historic Preservation in 1968. Her goal “was to preserve the place where her father created some of the most iconic sculptural works in America, as well as his overall artistic legacy,” says Hassler. “Art and history go hand-in-hand at Chesterwood because French created works

Top left: Chesterwood was designed by Henry Bacon, the architect of the Lincoln Memorial.

Top: Some of Daniel Chester French’s creations on

display at his studio in Chesterwood, where he worked on over 200 public and private commissions.

Above: The studio features a railroad track that allowed

French to move his massive sculptures from the indoors to the outdoors, on a flatbed car, to see how they looked in daylight against a backdrop of grass and trees.

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CHESTERWOOD

NORMAN WALSH/Courtesy Flickr

http://artistshomes.org

JUSTIN POPE © AP Images SMYTHE RICHBOURG/Courtesy Flickr

The estate itself is a lush, unique, living work

of art.

34 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

of art to commemorate America’s important historical, scientific and literary figures—from President George Washington to [writer] Edgar Allan Poe.” Some of his other notable creations include the Minute Man statue for the town of Concord, Massachusetts; a bust of writer Ralph Waldo Emerson; the John Harvard statue; the statue of pioneering American educator of the deaf, Thomas Gallaudet, besides many public and private commissions.

While Chesterwood preserves the history and art of a bygone era, it also serves as a vibrant center for community and creativity. It is often rented for wedding celebrations. Aspiring artists also take classes and lessons at the estate. At other times, Chesterwood hosts exhibitions of contemporary artists, Americana music events and talks from scholars and art experts. To see what’s happening on any day, check out the online calendar on its website.

Hassler points out, while Chesterwood is a wonderful cultural and travel destination, it is only one of the many U.S. sites that art- and history-minded travelers can explore.

MARK GOEBEL/Courtesy Flickr

Photographs by REZIEMBA/Courtesy Flickr

Top: A garden archway on the path to Chesterwood.

Top right: A statue of President Abraham Lincoln by Daniel Chester French at Chesterwood. It was unveiled on May 27, 1966.

Above and above right: Artworks in the backyard of Chesterwood.

Above far right: Chesterwood is owned and operated by the National Trust for Historic Preservation and is recognized as a national and Massachusetts historic landmark.

“Chesterwood is part of a consortium of Historic Artists’ Homes and Studios throughout the U.S. that people can visit to learn more about the artistic and cultural heritage of this country,” she says.

Positioned close to the western border of Massachusetts, Chesterwood is a short drive from nearby airports. “Visitors should plan to spend a few hours at Chesterwood to enjoy the architecture, sculptures and gardens, including the formal gardens and woodland walks,” says Hassler, who advises visitors to wear comfortable walking shoes during their explorations.

Chesterwood is open to the public from May through October every year, matching the summer timeframe during which French worked at the site. Group tours of Chesterwood are also available during these months. The admission cost ranges from $10 (Rs. 660 approximately) to $18 (Rs. 1,200 approximately). Discounts are available for seniors and children.

Michael Gallant is the founder and chief executive officer of Gallant Music. He lives in New York City.

Rain0975/Courtesy Flickr

An Ode to

Conservation

T

By PAROMITA PAIN

Pulitzer Prize-winning author Louis Bromfield’s Malabar Farm offers a perfect mix of enjoyment and education.

ed McCombs is a 19-year-old conservation enthusiast from Austin, Texas. “Nature conservation is an important part of ensuring that our natural resources last longer,” he says. According to McCombs, museums and national parks play a great role in encouraging people to take an interest in the issue. “Most national parks may seem intimidating to those starting out,” he says. “That’s why I recommend Malabar Farm in Ohio.

It’s fun. It has something for all age groups and works as a sort of primer for understanding why we must look after our natural environment.”

OHWiki/Courtesy Wikipedia

MALABAR FARM

Above: Pugh Cabin at Malabar Farm, where the opening scene of the movie “Shawshank Redemption” was shot.

Below: A view of Malabar Farm’s Visitors Center.

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www.bookthink.com/ 0078/78lb1.htm

Below right: Louis Bromfield fondly referred to his 32-room mansion as “The Big House.”

It was designed by him and architect Louis Lamoreux.

Below, below center and bottom: Interiors of The Big House.

Photographs by Niagara66/Courtesy Wikipedia

Louis Bromfield: The Man Behind the Farm

BETTY B/Courtesy Flickr

www.malabarfarm.org

The Malabar Farm State Park may not feature on the usual list of travel “must-sees” in the United States, but its relation to environmental conservation work makes it a familiar name among enthusiasts. And, the farm has an interesting history.

Set up in 1939 by Louis Bromfield, an American author, journalist and conservationist, the farm is dedicated to agriculture and promoting soil and water conservation. The journalistic work of Bromfield, who was born in 1896 in Mansfield, Ohio, primarily focused on agriculture-related issues and conservation efforts. In 1927, he won the Pulitzer Prize for his novel, “Early Autumn.” The farm is, in many ways, an extension of another book written by him in 1942, titled “A Primer of Conservation.” From 1972 to 1976, the farm was operated jointly by Ohio’s Department of Natural Resources and Department of Agriculture. In 1976, it became one of Ohio’s state parks. It has an education center with 15 permanent exhibits on agriculture, energy conservation, recycling and animal life.

Malabar Farm, however, is more than just a

JERWARD/Courtesy Wikipedia

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Courtesy Wikipedia

Malabar Farm State Park

Why visit the farm?

center of environmental conservation practices—it’s a museum of early farming and pastoral life in Ohio. In addition, Bromfield’s house on the grounds has interesting memorabilia as he had connections with many Hollywood and Broadway stars. Hollywood stars Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall even got married here.

The farm also shares a unique relation with India. “Bromfield had visited India a couple of times and liked the Malabar Coast, and hence gave the name ‘Malabar’ to his farm,” says Behrooz Avari, an education outreach specialist with the U.S. Consulate General in Mumbai. She visited the farm when she was studying in the United States in 2006. Her tour of Bromfield’s house was memorable.

“It is a beautiful farmhouse with cozy rooms filled with antiques and wonderful paintings, and a three-car, heated garage,” she says. “The barn opposite the house had farm animals. I was delighted to see cows, horses, turkeys, ducks, rabbits, pigs, goats and sheep.

It was a great first-time experience petting newborn lambs and a pony, hearing piglets oink and watching fluffy chicks dash about.”

Hiking and other activities

and has round and square dancing with live music. At the Old Fashioned Film Feature night, visitors can watch movies made about the books by Bromfield. The Annual Ohio Heritage Days Festival showcases crafts, antique tractors, horses, Civil War, an 18th century living history camp, and food.

McCombs says this was his pictorial introduction to the Civil War. Also, while on the subject of food, the Malabar Farm Restaurant, which sources locally grown produce for its menu, is highly recommended. “We ended our tour with a delicious meal there,” says Avari.

For the locals, the farm is where proposals, weddings and long lazy summer day plans happen. For travelers, this might just be the spot to take a break from hectic schedules.

Mount Jeez, the campgrounds and the picnic areas remain open from May to October during daylight hours. Visitors can take guided tours of the house for $4 (Rs. 270 approximately) and the farm for $2 (Rs. 130 approximately). The tours are not available during state and national holidays.

The farm has abundant hiking grounds and the open greens are designed to help visitors appreciate the power of scientific agricultural practices. Mount Jeez, which overlooks Malabar Farm, offers great views of the Ferguson Meadow and falls.

The trails are perhaps its biggest draw. “We went on the Butternut trail through a forest on the farm and to a small cave area. The trail was lovely, and the forest was filled with beech and maple trees. On the trail, we also saw the Pugh Cabin, where the opening scene of the movie ‘Shawshank Redemption’ takes place,” says Avari.

Like any historical site, the farm has its share of stories. “One of the stories they told us was about a mentally unstable lady, Ceely [Celia] Rose, who poisoned her family in order to marry a man she thought loved her,” says Avari. The Rose house is part of Malabar Farm and is believed to be haunted.

The farm holds various events to promote a greater appreciation of nature as well as to bring the community together. The Heritage Barn Dance continues a Bromfield tradition

Paromita Pain is a journalist based in Austin, Texas.

“

Bromfield had visited India a couple of times and liked the Malabar Coast, and hence gave the name ‘Malabar’ to his farm.

”

BETTY B/Courtesy Flickr

© AP Images

OHWiki/Courtesy Wikipedia

Left: A view of Malabar Farm from Mount Jeez, with Pleasant Hill Lake in the background.

Below far left: Horse-drawn wagons transport visitors inside Malabar Farm during the annual Maple Syrup Festival.

Below center left: Humphrey Bogart (left) and Louis Bromfield (center) look on as Lauren Bacall (right) cuts her wedding cake. Bogart and Bacall got married in The Big House in 1945.

Below left: The smokehouse at Malabar Farm was designed by architect Louis Lamoreux using the bricks from the house of former vice president Henry Wallace’s grandfather.

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Preserving the

P

By CARRIE LOEWENTHAL MASSEY

Fulbrighter

Suresh Sethuraman

former U.S. presidents during his FulbrightNehru fellowships in the United States in 20102011 and 2015-2016. These included the houses of President Woodrow Wilson in Washington, D.C.; President James Madison in Montpelier, Virginia; President James Monroe in Fredericksburg, Virginia; and President George Washington, both near Fredericksburg and at the Mount Vernon estate in Virginia. He visited and learned in detail about the White House as well. Smaller historic homes of carpenters and shoemakers in the Old Salem Historic District in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, and Williamsburg, Virginia, also piqued his interest.

But Sethuraman’s favorite home, and one in which he had the honor of giving tours, is the Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Pope-Leighey House, located within the Woodlawn House

tourism and museum management in Chennai.

He is also the Tamil Nadu State Convener for the nonprofit organization Indian National Trust for Arts and Cultural Heritage (INTACH).

Sethuraman keeps this need for fun and recreational intrigue in mind when he leads tours of historic homes and other destinations.

“I take them around the house as if I am taking them around my own house back in India, and tell them about the house like an interesting story. No technical jargon or dry statistics, unless they ask for it,” says Sethuraman. “My story would normally cover, in brief, all aspects of the house—the history, architecture, furniture, kitchen utensils, any interesting or even frightening story about the house.”

Sethuraman visited and studied the homes of

property in Virginia. There, during his first Fulbright fellowship through the National Trust for Historic Preservation and the University of Maryland in College Park, Sethuraman interacted with visitors from several countries, including India. He found travelers came to the home with varying interests.

“Visitors look forward to seeing, admiring and learning about the architecture of these homes and also the old furniture and artifacts.

Some visitors are also curious to know the history of the house, when it was built, who built it, did it change hands, details about the various owners, etc. In the Pope-Leighey House, many visitors were particularly interested in the rows of books on the shelves and the old-style cutlery and appliances in the kitchen,” says Sethuraman.

Photographs courtesy Suresh Sethuraman

uses his study of heritage buildings and sites in the United States to conserve those in India.

art of the joy of traveling is experiencing the world through other people’s eyes—seeing what they see every day, walking their streets and visiting their sites. Add cultural immersion through local food, music, art and theater, and these journeys, to places near and far, can captivate your senses. They can also shed light on how people lived in the past.

Tours of historical homes throughout the United States reveal the nuances of daily life for everyone, from an average family to the former presidents. Visitors get fascinating insights into the tastes, sights and sounds of what life was like for them.

“Most visitors are not students or scholars.

They come to learn, but are also looking for some fun. They plan it as a holiday experience and not a serious study tour,” says Suresh Sethuraman, a consultant in archaeological

Above: Suresh Sethuraman (left) talks to visitors at the Pope-Leighey House, where he gave a tour during his first Fulbright-Nehru fellowship.

Above right: Archaeological digs at Montpelier, the home of President James Madison in Virginia. Sethuraman visited the house during his Fulbright-Nehru fellowship.

38 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

Past

The Pope-Leighey House https://goo.gl/aBNnFH

Fulbright Fellowships for Indians https://goo.gl/kVylZD

in the United States, Sethuraman now works to transform such homes in India into museums. One project involves assisting the Maratha royal family of Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, in developing their palace as a historic home museum.

“The number of historic home museums in India is very few. The first well-recorded historic home museums in India were those founded soon after India got her freedom from British rule in 1947. These homes were connected with Mahatma Gandhi and included the home of his birth and the home where he died,” says Sethuraman.

“Now, there are plans to develop many more historic home museums throughout India, on the model of similar homes in the U.S.” Carrie Loewenthal Massey is a New York City-based freelance writer.

Sophia Khumukcham says that

tours of historic presidential homes illuminate their owners’ histories and provide insights into their leadership.

Courtesy Sophia Khumukcham

Right: Sophia Khumukcham (sitting) with other Hubert Humphrey fellows at the Polio Hall of Fame in Roosevelt Warm Springs Institute for Rehabilitation in Georgia.

Presidential

Abodes

S

By CARRIE LOEWENTHAL MASSEY

ophia Khumukcham’s visit to President Jimmy Carter’s home in Plains, Georgia, was quite unique. It included a glimpse of how President Carter lived as a child; the farm his father kept, the day-to-day tasks he completed; and, an opportunity to see and hear from the man himself.

“We got a chance to attend an evening in his church wherein Mrs. [Rosalynn] Carter was also present,” says Khumukcham, who lives in New Delhi and toured the grounds of President Carter’s estate as part of the Hubert H. Humphrey Fellowship Program at Emory University in Atlanta, Georgia, in 2013-14.

This is a Fulbright exchange program for young and mid-career professionals sponsored

To share articles go to https://span.state.gov NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 39

PRESIDENTIAL HOMES

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The “small, but beautifully designed” house has a bedroom, a study, a living room, a kitchen and a bathroom. He enjoyed telling its story too.

“The house is entirely made of wood and was relocated to the Woodlawn campus from another site [nearby] in Virginia. This relocation was necessitated due to the building of a highway near the site of the original house,” he says.

Sethuraman found that the Pope-Leighey house appealed to him and many other visitors because of Wright’s body of work, as the house exemplifies many of his design principles.

“Many of his homes are known for their simple design elements—straight lines or geometric patterns—no intricate or confusing orientation designs or clutter. Also, his homes make optimum use of every inch of the available space,” he says.

Building on his knowledge about historic homes

Hubert Humphrey Fellow

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Hubert H. Humphrey Fellowship Program

www.humphreyfellowship.org

Jimmy Carter National Historic Site www.nps.gov/jica

Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site www.nps.gov/hofr

Lincoln Home National Historic Site

Courtesy Sophia Khumukcham

www.nps.gov/liho

by the U.S. Department of State.

President Carter shared “details about his life and what he remembers of our respective countries,” says Khumukcham.

The visit, especially the time spent in the former president’s boyhood home, led Khumukcham to see him as “one of us.” And by being in his home, “you sort of get to live through his achievements and hard work,” she says. “A sense of encouragement gets into you.”

A public health professional, Khumukcham also found fascinating the estate in Warm Springs, Georgia, which includes the home of President Franklin D. Roosevelt. President Roosevelt first traveled to Warm Springs in 1924 in search of a cure for polio, which he had been suffering from for the past three years. Immediately after swimming in the waters at Warm Springs, he felt some improvement in his condition, according to the

Above: Sophia Khumukcham (second row, second from right) with former President Jimmy Carter (center), his wife, Rosalynn Carter (second from right), and other Hubert Humphrey fellows at the Carters’ church in Plains, Georgia.

40 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

National Park Service. He returned to the site almost every year for the rest of his life. In 1932, he completed constructing his home there, called the Little White House.

“Polio has recently been eradicated in my country and it did help me see some connection there,” says Khumukcham, who serves as a program officer at the Department of AIDS Control, Ministry of Health & Family Welfare in India. She designs policy and implements programs to prevent H.I.V. infection among injecting drug users.

The visits to both President Carter’s and President Roosevelt’s homes left lasting impressions on Khumukcham.

“The visits to these places have helped me

work on leadership skills and, above all, to be visionary,” she says.

Travelers to the United States looking for similar inspiration, or those simply interested in presidential history, can tour homes of many former leaders. Be sure to check the National Park Service website, as some homes are privately maintained and not open to the public. The following are additional suggestions.

Lincoln Home National Historic Site Abraham Lincoln and his wife, Mary Lincoln, lived in this home in Springfield, Illinois, for 17 years, until he became president in 1861. It’s the only house he ever owned.

The National Park Service restored the home to its 1860 appearance and opened it to the public in 1887. The site includes four blocks surrounding the house and several other buildings important to the President Lincoln era, which covers the Civil War and emancipation of slaves. Visitors can tour two museums showcasing exhibits that highlight the culture of the period and depict events from President Lincoln’s life.

Lyndon B. Johnson National Historical Park President Johnson, who assumed office in 1963 after President John F. Kennedy’s assassination and led the country during the Vietnam War, called the Texas Hill Country home. This park includes both his grandfather’s ranch, the LBJ Ranch, and part of the small town of Johnson City, founded by his family. President Johnson returned to the site multiple times throughout his political career in Washington, D.C. He retired when his presidential term ended in 1969 and died in this home in 1973. A visit to the park, located about 80 kilometers west of Austin, Texas, tells the story of his life and political legacy.

Tours of his boyhood home are available daily.

There are other options too, from the homes of Ulysses S. Grant, a famed Civil War general and subsequent president, to President Ronald Reagan, an icon of the 1980’s. So, don’t hesitate to get out there and explore a little history—like Khumukcham, you might just be inspired, too.

Carrie Loewenthal Massey is a New York City-based freelance writer.

LAUREN VOLO

Celebrated Indian American chef Floyd Cardoz has restaurants in both India and the United States, including the critically acclaimed Paowalla in New York City and The Bombay Canteen in Mumbai.

He was the winner of Season 3 of “Top Chef Masters” in 2011 and was also named among the Top 50 Most Influential Global Indians by GQ Magazine.

Chef Cardoz recently visited India to connect with some of his counterparts, and discuss the food and beverage industries in the United States and India.

He also had interactive sessions with Indian students and mediapersons on culinary diplomacy.

Excerpts from an interview.

Cooking Connections

By SUHEIL IMTIAZ

CUISINE

When and how did you become interested in the culinary field as a career?

I started my career thinking I would be a doctor. And then, it was a research scientist, a marine biologist, a vet, a tea garden plantation manager—all these things went through my head. One day, I read a book while I was studying biochemistry—Arthur Hailey’s “Hotel.”

I was intrigued by the whole hospitality world and decided that’s what I want to do. So, I went to a hospitality school and loved cooking. Because I was good at it, I decided to go to the kitchen.

I landed up in the United States in 1988 for college and job, and stayed. Here I am, 28 years later, having spent most of my life in the U.S. What inspired you to start The Bombay Canteen?

I was very successful at Tabla in New York, where I did Indian food through the eyes of an American. It became very popular, and I slowly started growing closer and closer to Indian food. After 12 years, we closed the restaurant down. We opened The Bombay Canteen a year-and-a-half ago.

We had been planning for two years. On my trips to India, I realized that Indian food is not being celebrated. Indians were rather going for multicuisine, for other cuisines and forgetting their own. I thought, To share articles go to https://span.state.gov NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016 41

Photographs by LAUREN VOLO

BREVILLE USA/Courtesy Flickr

Left: Chef Floyd Cardoz at North End Grill in New York City. He was featured in home appliance manufacturer Breville’s “Road to the Recipe” video series.

Below far left and below center: Naan and chutneys and Indian-spiced heirloom tomatoes served at chef Cardoz’s Paowalla restaurant (below left) in New York City.

what if we made a restaurant that is fun, approachable and inexpensive, with great hospitality, just like restaurants in the United States. And we did! I am happy that The Bombay Canteen is doing well and people are loving it.

What are the most popular dishes at the restaurant?

There isn’t one most popular dish because we change our menu often, like restaurants in the West. One of the issues that I have with Indian restaurants is that they never change their menu. People get tired of it and the food isn’t even improved. So we decided that we are going to have an ever-changing menu.

What are your plans for Paowalla?

I feel that Indian food in the U.S. is not where it should be. We don’t recognize regional food; we don’t push the envelope enough. Indian restaurants in New York are like restaurants back here—the menus never change. I have been traveling to India over the last three years and have seen so many different cuisines. I feel that nobody exposes those cuisines. My hope is to take these cuisines, use local American ingredients, make them popular and make them approachable to everybody.

What kind of Indian cuisine is 42 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2016

preferred in the United States?

Indian cuisine in the U.S. today is like Italian food was 30 years ago—white sauce, red sauce, pizza. That’s not Italian food as we know today. Indian food in the United States today is mainly chicken tikka masala, saag paneer and chicken makhani and naan. We all know that’s a small part of Indian food. There are so many regions that are different. That being said, people here love it. There are also people who hate it, who hate curry and have no idea what they are talking about.

With trade and with foreign nationals in Indian and American companies coming to India, people are exposed more and are traveling a lot more to India. I think they are ready for something different, something more exciting, something more fun, something approachable. So that is why I decided on Paowalla with that concept.

Do you think food plays a role in strengthening people-to-people relations between countries?

I think food is a very important part of culture. Food is what brings people together wherever they are. They always say, “Let’s break bread together.” You sit at a table, you talk and you enjoy a meal

together. Introducing food and flavors from different countries to a new country always helps bring people closer because one of the most personal things you can do is eat together. Having two different cultures and using that to bring people together is just fantastic.

Please tell us about your favorite Indian dishes and what you like about them.

Oh boy! My most favorite characteristic of Indian food is its mix of sweet, sour, spicy, salty, bitter…the “chatpata” character. That’s what I like immensely about Indian food, which people don’t get to see very much.

Is there a cuisine I prefer over the other? Not really; I like them all. If I say I love fish curry over chicken chakoti, I would be lying because I like to eat them both. Biryani, kosha maangsho, raan, rogan josh, masala dosa—they are all so varied, so different. I love them all.

What are the most difficult ingredients that you have worked with?

I don’t think there are any difficult ingredients. The issue is more how people treat them, understand them and store them. If you understand and respect an ingredient, you can make it work for you.

What are the most underrated ingredients in American and Indian kitchens?

In Indian kitchens, the most underrated ingredients, for sure, are all the local ones because people don’t understand how good they can be. The underrated ingredients in American cuisine are the lesser cuts of meat. Everybody wants tendon, but they don’t really look at oxtail, short rib, shoulder, neck or tongue. These are really underrated because people don’t recognize them. I think they are amazing ingredients.

What defines comfort food for you?

Comfort food is something that takes you back to a place where you are happy.

For me, its Goan fish curry and rice because that’s what I had while growing up. My grandmother used to make it for

you need to because the learning process should never stop. Being a chef, you’ve got to learn the basics; to cook something you should be able to fix. Spend your time, pay your dues and learn how to be a cook before you become a chef. Just being in the kitchen doesn’t make you a chef. Being a chef is about running a business, about cooking food, about taking care of your staff, taking care of your guests…it’s a bunch of things which take time to develop and learn. How do you know what your skills are? You don’t.

You learn it over the years, with practice and by working with different people.

Please tell us about your forthcoming book.

My new book is called “Flavorwalla.”

It’s about connecting my culture, my two sons, my home and wife, how I cook for them and how it affects me in my personal American life. I believe everybody has stories and being able to show these stories through food is very important.

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Photographs by SANJAY RAMCHANDRAN

Suheil Imtiaz is an information assistant with the U.S. Consulate General in Hyderabad.

Chef Cardoz

www.cheffloydcardoz.com

Paowalla

www.paowalla.com LAUREN VOLO

Below and bottom: Chef Floyd Cardoz’s The Bombay Canteen in Mumbai focuses on recreating traditional recipes in contemporary forms, like the Chicken Chettinad Tacos (below right) and Grilled Dhokla Chaat (below far right).

really low. In both countries it’s a human business, so you have to give that personality to the business.

What’s the one cuisine that you haven’t explored yet, but are keen to experiment with?

I’d love to learn cuisines from the East Coast of India, Assam, Odisha, coastal Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu. I don’t know those cuisines and I would love to learn those.

I had a chance to eat Assamese food long ago. I didn’t have a chance to eat it recently, but would love to. Any chance to be exposed to something you have never seen is very exciting for me. I’ve heard there are game birds like ducks, pigeons and swans, which you don’t get anywhere else in Indian cuisine. In Assam, there are fermented rice, fish curries and dried meat that you don’t normally see anywhere else. It’s kind of interesting to see that.

What advice would you like to give to aspiring chefs?

The biggest piece of advice I would give is to follow your heart, be passionate about it and learn as much as you can. Never believe that you have learned everything DEBRAJ GHOSH

me, that’s what my cook would make for me at home and that’s what my mom makes now.

What are some of the challenges that you have faced as a chef in India and the United States?

One of the biggest challenges that I faced in the U.S. was people not thinking that being an Indian chef, I could do what I wanted. A big challenge that I face in India is that people don’t understand the breadth of Indian food and what can be done with it.

How similar or different is the business side of being an entrepreneur in India and in the United States?

Being an entrepreneur in the U.S. and in India is pretty similar yet pretty different. All go through the same issues—high costs, low revenues and high investment costs. However, in the United States, labor cost and rent cost are pretty high. In India, these costs are

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PRATEEKSH MEHRA

High Tea Punch, made with spiced rum, almond syrup, white chocolate syrup, apple cinnamon tea, orange juice and pineapple juice, served in a customized vessel at chef Floyd Cardoz’s The Bombay Canteen in Mumbai.