The Elements FLAVORS
VINEGAR PIE: A HISTORIC TREASURE
HEALTHS
OLD NORTH SHRUB PUTS A CURRENT SPIN ON COLONIAL-ERA DRINK
CRAFT
THE GOOD, THE BAD, AND THE PUMPKIN!
LAGNIAPPE
THE BIG EASY
The Book of
OKRA Author sheds the slimy stigma of this incredible vegetable
Fall-Winter 2019
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TABLE
of CONTENTS 9
Drinks with Kate
Touch of Tuscany at Wölffer Estate
11
Dine
Bardo: An Enchanted Evening
20
Quick Bite Magpies
24
Profiles
Vinegar Pie: Don’t let the name fool you
21 FEATURES
ALSO IN THIS ISSUE
14
4
Author sheds the slimy stigma of this incredible vegetable
5
The Book of Okra
21
Sip of Time Old North Shrub puts a current spin on colonial-era drink
27 27
Getaway
From the Editor
Big Easy Getaway: New Orleans
32
Quick Trip
Contributors
Roanoke: Journey Toward the Star
6
Crafts with Kriska
Inside Fall Craft Brews with Pop The Top CLT: The Good, the Bad, and the Pumpkin!
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34
Final Sentiment
Butchery as Legacy
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FROM
the EDITOR
Historians, Craftsmen, and Artisans Our history spoken through food
T
his issue is very dear to me because we are celebrating the craftsmen and historians. Food is history. Every dish we create and every ingredient we use has a longlived story to tell. Nearly everyone has a memory of being in a relative’s kitchen, watching the elders use what was available at the time to make what would become an heirloom dish. Our food tells the story of our families. It tells the story of times of bounty and times of strife. There are recipes Food is history. Every lost to time and lost to dish we create and every the attrition of certain whether it be a ingredient we use has a elements, specific ingredient, breed, long-lived story to tell. or technique, but we always manage to recreate and prosper, thus making our own history to cherish. The history of okra, the resurrection of colonial Scrub, pies from bounty and a pie from strife, and, of course, your neighborhood butcher all find their place here. This issue will take us through the holiday season when our food history most comes alive. May your tables be filled with the bounty of your own history and may you create new ones to cherish.
Wendy 4 | Craveable Carolinas | ™
FALL-WINTER 2019
Stay in Touch
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@CraveableMag
CONTRIBUTORS
Fall-Winter 2019 Vol. 2, No. 3 Publisher and Editor Wendy Dimitri Contributing Editor Michael J. Solender
Michael J. Solender travels the road less taken sharing wondrous cultural, culinary and historical discoveries with his readers. Solender’s writing has been featured in the New York Times, Ocean Home Magazine, Southern Living, Travel Connect, SouthPark Magazine, Lake Norman Magazine and others.
Creative Director Larry Preslar Ad Design Claire Denney Contributors Molly Halpin Sara Kendall Brianna Melanson Michael J. Solender Kate Bruce Terrigno Kriska Woods Editing and Proofing John Nalley Publication Design SPARK Publications SPARKpublications.com Editorial Please send story ideas and comments to wendy@craveablecarolinas.com Advertising Zoe Gillespie 859.607.4322 advertising@craveablecarolinas.com Founder of our predecessor magazine, Epicurean Charlotte Linda Seligman
Former news producer, television journalist and on-air personality, Kate Bruce Terrigno’s love for writing has always been a piece of her puzzle. As a self-proclaimed foodie and a native New Yorker, she has done her fair share of research when it comes to food and drinks and the industry that surrounds them.
Molly Halpin is a Charlotte based writer and photographer. Her love of people and history inspires her love of storytelling. She spends her weekends wandering through bookshelves and reading in cafes learning from the best.
Delicious cuisines, urban places, and beautiful oceans get Sara Kendall on the move. She is just as passionate about photography as writing and you will find they are often paired together. Sara is a travel editor for World Bride magazine and Charlotte publications. Check out more of Sara’s travels at latitudecrossing.com.
© 2019 Craveable Carolinas Brianna Melanson is a writer and photographer with a passion for supporting small businesses and local artists. She runs on strong coffee and Instagrammable food. She’s always on a mission to find her next article on her ongoing adventure.
OnLimpin’ the Susan Cover
Kriska Woods is a pharmacist by trade but you can find her dispensing her true passion of Instagramworthy Charlotte eats, drinks, and lifestyle with her brother on Instagram as @CLT.Remedy. When she is not dosing out the best of Charlotte, she’s tending to her three boys: the husband, the toddler, and the pup!
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CRAFTS
with KRISKA
Inside Fall Craft Brews with Pop The Top CLT The Good, the Bad, and the Pumpkin!
orth Carolina has officially dubbed itself “The State of Southern Beer.” With more than 300 breweries and brewpubs, it officially has the largest number of craft breweries in the South. South
Carolina isn’t doing too shabby either, with the surge in their craft scene sitting currently at about 80 craft companies. With so many brews to drink and so little time, how can you sample all this craft goodness? Well, Ketan and Kathy Patel has the answer: Check out
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by: Kriska Woods
N
™
Pop the Top Craft Beer Shop in the heart of South End in Charlotte. From the Carolina mountains to the coast, Ketan and Kathy are doing some very BREWtiful work in bringing the best craft beer selection to Charlotteans. And with autumn’s arrival,
CRAFTS WITH KRISKA we talked the good, the bad, and the pumpkin as we go inside fall craft brews.
THE GOOD: NEW SEASON MEANS NEW BEER
Many people’s beer choice is often affected by the weather and the season, and the Pop the Top team will have a wide variety of fall brews like pumpkin beers, porters and stouts with flavor profiles of cinnamon, maple, and vanilla, to highlight a few. But for those who love the lighter side of things, the beauty of a bottle shop is that they will still carry IPAs, pilsners, lagers, sours, and wild ales. “When you fall in love with a beer style, go for it!” Ketan says. It may be harder to find a certain style during an “off-season” but there are no faux pas when it comes to drinking what you like.
THE BAD: SUMMER IS OVER
This summer brought a lot of new beers and it was a summer of fruity gose. This was the summer of passionfruit and guava, which are absolutely delicious and flavorful exotic fruits. Some of
Ketan’s favorites that were perfect for sipping on the patio were anything from High Branch Brewing, Divine Barrel Brewing’s Cadillac Rainbows, and Resident Culture’s IPAs. As the Carolina seasons change, and quite dramatically as it does with sweater weather in the morning and then sweltering tank top afternoons, Ketan recommends IPAs and wild ales as both can be light and crisp or have more density to warm you up. A local brew that’s perfect for the transitioning season: Wooden Robot’s Good Morning Vietnam.
With more than 300 breweries and brewpubs, North Carolina officially has the largest number of craft breweries in the South. South Carolina isn’t doing too shabby either, with the surge in their craft scene sitting currently at about 80 craft companies.
THE PUMPKIN: OY, WITH THE PUMPKIN BEERS!
The famed Starbucks PSL continuously gets released earlier and earlier, and last year’s release at the end of August stirred up a debate whether it was “acceptable” to drink one prior to the autumnal equinox. Asked about pumpkin beers, Ketan likes to wait until October until it cools down but encourages that if pumpkin is a style that you favor and crave, then indulge in it when it comes out and you
Gose /ˈɡōzə/: a sour, fermented German wheat beer with typical notes of sour citrus, herbs, and salinity Quick info on Pop The Top: Inspired by their European travels, this Charlotte couple wanted to create a local neighborhood gathering spot. They saw how breweries in Brussels, London, and Germany in every corner became a community center for people to gather; and as the brewery movement in Charlotte has grown and developed in the last five years, the Patels joined the wave by opening up a bottle shop to support the South End neighborhood in 2017. In addition to their wide craft beer selection featuring mostly Carolina brews and a unique brews from a few states, Pop the Top partners with other local businesses and carries gifts and snacks from local vendors, as well as have collaborative events like bottle shares, tap takeovers, and tastings.
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CRAFTS WITH KRISKA get the chance. “Pumpkin is certainly fall-centric, but when you love a beer, then enjoy it whenever you like!” Beyond the pumpkin beer, other fall styles to get into that Ketan recommends include stouts or porters with maple, cinnamon, coffee, and spices.
Lightning Round with SpaceKaseCLT Kasey is a big fan of Pop the Top CLT, and for all your CLT brews and food cravings, her IG @SpaceKaseCLT is the right space! Here’s her take on the CLT brewery scene. Birdsong Brewing: Love their outside seating and their Honey Double IPA. Blue Blaze: This brewery is off the beaten path, but their space is gorgeous. Brewers at 4001 Yancey: A @ SpaceKaseCLT favorite! Chef Drew’s menu is amazing, the cocktails are delicious and creative and, of course, the beer variety is stellar. Their space is massive with multiple patios and dog-friendly! Catawba Brewing: A family affair that has allowed us to indulge in small-batch brews while enjoying a great view of our Queen City.
“Pumpkin is certainly fall-centric, but when you love a beer, then enjoy it whenever you like!” Beyond the pumpkin beer, other fall styles to get into that Ketan recommends include stouts or porters with maple, cinnamon, coffee, and spices. These cozy beers really bring out the cooler weather mood. These cozy beers really bring out the cooler weather mood. A nice, smooth Oktoberfest with a tough of light caramel can also hit the spot. A few N.C. brew favorites to check out: the Olde Mecklenburg Brewery’s Mecktoberfest, NoDa Brewing’s Gordegous, or any high gravity stout from Burial Beer Co.
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humans and a gorgeous location. Salud Cerveceria: Flawless! The beers are innovative, the events are fun, and the food is amazing. Jason and Dairelyn are crushing it and are family. Suffolk Punch: The beer garden is beautiful. The food is always on point, especially the weekend brunch. And you’ll usually find us at the beer tower chatting with friends. Town Brewing: Just started going here more often and appreciate them stepping up their hazy game.
Divine Barrel Brewing: Great people, amazing beer, phenomenal space, and fun games!
Triple C Brewing: Really dig the new seating on their front lawn and the Dumpling Lady every Sunday.
Free Range Brewing: Unique beers! Have been following these brothers from Twenty-Two and still waiting for my personalized Free Range flannel!
Unknown Brewing Co: The upstairs patio has a fantastic city view!
Heist Brewery: IPA haven and love the NoDa location. The Barrel Arts Spot is a fave! Legion Brewing: Juicy Jay is a goto whenever out and about, and the South Park location’s food and cocktails are great! Highly anticipating the upcoming South End location.
Wooden Robot Brewery: Creative brews with delicious IPAs and the food at the South End location is a top five for us. So proud of their new NoDa location!
Top 3 Breweries just outside the QC:
Lenny Boy Brewing: Love the pretzel and the cool events they host.
Amor Artis: In Fort Mill, the brews are delicious and always different. The upstairs porch is a great addition.
NoDa Brewing: This OG spot is dear to my heart. These guys truly care about the beer community and it shows.
King Canary: The prettiest twostory house on the water has some serious haze in Mooresville.
Olde Mecklenburg Brewery: The Fat Boy Baltic Porter.
High Branch: Love their space in Concord, the folks, and their hazy and sour beers!
Protagonist Clubhouse: This quaint space packed with lots of flavor is a new @SpaceKaseCLT fave! The Mikkeller tap takeover was amazing and the Michelada beer cocktail is spicy but divine. Resident Culture: If this says anything about our love affair with RC, we are getting married there in a month! I’ve attended beer festivals they are a part of out-of-state, we stalk their can and new beer releases, and their Food Truck Friday is the best in the city. Super dope FALL-WINTER 2019
Top 3 Asheville Breweries: Burial Beer: Their beer is insane and the atmosphere is great. One World Brewing: Two locations = two different vibes but the same outstanding brews. Green Man Brewery: Spot-on vibes, local folks we love, and usually a beer on tap we hadn’t seen in a while.
DRINKS
with KATE
Touch of Tuscany
Complex cabernet. Captivating scenery. This estate is a must-see when in the Hamptons. by Kate Terrigno
W
hisk me away! For I have landed at one of the most special places for this issue’s drink of choice. And while it be a hop, skip and jump away, there is no question that it’s worth each and every bit of what it offers. Welcome to the Hamptons! Welcome to Wölffer Estate!
Full disclosure: I grew up a few miles from this New York haven, so my love for this vineyard is somewhat biased, but when it comes to my love of wine, there is no denying that this one effortlessly soars above the rest. The Wölffer Caya Cabernet Franc 2016
is one of their white horse selection wines. This red embodies an essence and complexity that is undeniable. It is fruit forward, smooth drinking and bold in taste. And just in case that’s not enough to get you here... let the breathtaking
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DRINKS WITH KATE views of lush, green vineyards for as far as the eye can see transplant you to the hillsides of Tuscany. To put it simply, this vineyard is just that captivating without even trying. A mustsee to believe, plus the people watching isn’t bad, either. So, here’s to ending the summer season in the Hamptons. And just in case you cannot make it until next year, not to worry—you can still enjoy from afar— visit winestore-online.com for local stores that carry Wölffer wines. Until next time ...cheers and enjoy!
’s Gourmet F oo rly e v
<B
> ds
e
Cabernet Franc grapes ready for harvest.
Delicious Prepared Meals & Desserts. < Vegetarian. Vegan. Gluten-Free. > To browse our menu & see where to shop for us, visit
beverlysgourmetfoods.com @beverlysgourmetfoods
<Beverly’s Gourmet Foods> MECKLENBURG COUNTY MARKET
1515 Harding Place • Charlotte, NC 28203 • (704) 533-0073
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DINE
Bardo: An Enchanted Evening Bardo offers a slow-food dining experience to be savored deliberately as there’s rare culinary theater in performance here. by Michael J. Solender photos courtesy of Bardo
A
n evening out at Bardo in South End’s burgeoning Gold District is a bit like taking in the Opera. A cast of star dishes, each with a powerful voice and a hint of mystery, unite in an ensemble cast that deliver on
When paired with nuanced cocktails, the food creates an aria that leaves guests humming aloud.
the promise of beauty, flavor and surprise. When paired with nuanced cocktails, the food creates an aria that leaves guests humming aloud. Patrons find Bardo’s sleek and handsome rectangular dining-room ringed by earthen and moss-covered art along one wall and an inviting, clubby bar opposite, with the open kitchen at the room’s far end drawing all eyes to executive chef Michael Noll’s symphony of gorgeous plates. Noll, with partner Jayson FALL-WINTER 2019
Whiteside, introduced Charlotte to their take on the popular small plate concept 14 months ago and have been evolving both their menu and creative bar program, helmed by bar manager and mixologist, Amanda Britton, ever since. Neighborhood diners, uptowners and Charlotte suburbanites have rewarded the cozy, smartly serviced restaurant with a strong following and word-of-mouth buzz about the special experience found here.
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DINE
Sauces, foams, and emulsions are flavor bombs that are more shingled than layered on dishes so that diners will get the painstakingly created flavor combos Noll looks to achieve.
great technique. Mostly we want people to have fun and enjoy themselves.” Noll says a career in the kitchen was one that chose him. “I just fell in love with pleasing strangers with my food and great hospitality,” says Noll, whose career has seen him in Michelin-starred kitchens from Chicago to Pittsburgh. “Nothing makes me happier than taking great care of our guests.” Technique plays a central role in every dish coming from his kitchen. Sauces, foams, and emulsions are flavor bombs that are more shingled than layered on dishes so that diners
Like the opera, however, first-time visitors may have a preconceived notion involving accessibility and the enjoyability factor of an unfamiliar approach. “So many guests have told me they think of our restaurant as fine dining,” remarked chef Noll, who puzzles at the notion, working hard to create an experience that is anything but stiff and formal – characteristics many associate with fine dining concepts. “We want people to come in, see that we’re doing things that others are not, and just appreciate good food and
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will get the painstakingly created flavor combos Noll looks to achieve. Case in point is one of the most popular, and seemingly most simple dishes on his menu: Egg and Grain. This dish is a one that embodies the ethos of Bardo – Simple, clean, yet lush and rich with a harmony of well curated and executed components that are comforting and eminently satisfying. Noll separately prepares ancient grain-combo of farro, quinoa, Job’s Tears, and bulger which are mixed with amaranth that has been cooked then fried crunchy. The grains are dressed with a sherry
and white shoyu ( a rich soy sauce), flecked with slow cooked kale and topped and with a confited hen’s egg yolk – when combined with the grains yield an unctuous mouth feel and a je ne sais quoi profile that left me and my table mate searching to describe how much we love this dish. A dozen share plates dot Bardo’s menu with servers at the ready to more fully explain the minimalist menu descriptors. Beef lovers will find an unusual Aged Ribeye, that’s been slowly sous vided, then quick seared on the grill atop a Carolina Gold Rice prepared risotto
DINE style with a kimchi pickling liquid providing an acidic foil for the ultra-rich beef. Texture, acidity and balance are the mantra at Bardo and while chef Noll swears he’s not trying to be revolutionary with his cooking – diners will be hard pressed to find similar menu choices, flavor pairings, or presentation style elsewhere in the QC. Bardo’s Scallop (yes, that is how it appears on the menu) features a pair of seared dry-pack scallops served in a shallow bowl with crunchy bamboo rice cooked sushi-style with rice wine vinegar and toasted coconut. A warm Thai-broth served table side releases all the aromatics with Nirvana quick to follow.
Rich Pork Belly shows off Noll’s touch for pickling and his emphasis on acidic kicks to balance fatty richness. Green strawberries are pickled, matched up with tart cherries and an eel sauce to flank the rich porky underbelly where the typical fat to meat ratio of 70/30 is almost inverted here, resulting in a meatier, more flavorful almost ham-like steak. Savory is not the sole knife in chef Noll’s butcher block, with his Passion Fruit dessert one of the best sweet bites in the city. Tart, jammy, sweet, slightly salty and crunchy play together in this creation – One of chef Noll’s favorite menu items. He combines frozen passion fruit, passion
Chef Michael Noll peers out of the open concept kitchen at Bardo.
fruit cream, caramelized white chocolate Macadamia nut, and Feuilletine (crushed fried crepes) crumble in a plate painting (almost) too pretty to eat. Let barkeep Amanda Britton know your spirit and flavor preferences and she’ll be certain to steer you right. She got my number immediately and hooked me
up with her Silence is Joven – a smoky mezcal cooler with yellow Chartreuse, Aperol, Licor, lemon, lime and a dash of bitters. Dining at Bardo is an experience best enjoyed slowly – bring a friend or two and kick back with a cocktail and a slow parade of small plates – Here dinner is the show.
Case in point is one of the most popular, and seemingly most simple dishes on his menu: Egg and Grain. This dish is a one that embodies the ethos of Bardo – Simple, clean, yet lush and rich with a harmony of well curated and executed components that are comforting and eminently satisfying. Five grains, a confit egg and crispy kale make up Bardo’s Egg & Grain dish.
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THE BOOK OF
OKRA Author sheds the slimy stigma of this incredible vegetable
Photographed by Peter Taylor
by Brianna Melanson photos courtesy of Chris Smith
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I
f someone recommended a dish with okra, would you gratefully eat it or turn your nose up? Many people report an underwhelming, slimy okra experience that has made them completely rule out okra from their diets. Chances are, the okra was probably not prepared correctly. That is why it is given a bad reputation and people steer clear of it. Chris Smith has written a book to prove the naysayers wrong. In “The Whole Okra: A Seed to Stem Celebration,” he skillfully introduces his readers to countless ways to savor, cook, and confront okra. After all, he gave okra a second chance after having a gross encounter with a tasteless bowl of it at a Georgia diner. Chris, the marketing and communications manager at Sow True Seed in Asheville, had been giving a presentation on okra when an editor from Chelsea Green Publishing asked if he would be interested in writing a book on it. He jumped at the opportunity to put his writing background to use and ultimately defend okra. After 18 months of research, farming, and writing, all while juggling his full-time job and fatherhood, you could say he’s now an okra expert. Ironic for a British man, but well-deserved. He started with newspaper archives from the 1800s (when okra was at its heyday) to the early 1900s, then moved on to recent academic research and botany, and discussions with historians and culinary specialists. For a hands-on approach, he planted 76 varieties of okra at Franny’s Farm to study. Chris explored all of the possible uses and methods of cooking okra. Fried, stewed, roasted, pickled, dried, boiled—you name it. Chris learned some cultures celebrate the
slime, aka the “S-Word.” But if you’re looking to erase the slimy factor, pair the okra with tomatoes, or something acidic. If you genuinely don’t like eating okra after multiple tries, you’re excused, but who said okra is only for eating? You can use the entire okra plant (the seeds, stalks, leaves, flowers); hence the book title. For example, the okra flower can be used for drinks. The Asheville Tea Company makes a delicious tea blend with dehydrated okra flowers. Chris experimented with infusing the flower with vodka and it turned a bright red. He then tried making an okra flower vinegar and it changed the same brilliant red, despite the flower being cream color, with only a small red pigment near the base. It was a pleasant surprise. Chris’s wife, Belle, and daughter, became the guinea pigs to try his okra face mask. He had found a Zimbabwean tradition where okra pods are boiled and blended into an aloe-like consistency for rehydrating benefits. Belle’s skin felt rejuvenated, thanks to okra’s high levels of vitamins and antioxidants. Okra could also potentially help reduce wrinkles and inflammation. So, you can eat it, drink it, and lather your skin with it. It does not stop there, though; okra can be made into coffee, paper and numerous other products which he dives into in the book. The book would have not come together if it weren’t for collaborations with acclaimed southern chefs and businesses. They educated Chris on their okra knowledge and experiences and graciously shared their recipes. Maia Surdam, co-owner of Old World Levain Bakery, baked multigrain okra seed sourdough and savory corn muffins. Chad
Chris Smith has written a book to prove the naysayers wrong. In “The Whole Okra: A Seed to Stem Celebration,” he skillfully introduces his readers to countless ways to savor, cook, and confront okra.
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Photographed by Peter Taylor
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Oliphant of Smiling Hara Tempeh made an okra seed tempeh. Chef Steve Goff of Brinehaus Meat + Provisions and AUX Bar concocted an original okra kimchi dish. That’s to name a few. These Chrisapproved restaurants and recipes are sure to help overwrite our okra mistakes. Chef Clark Barlowe of esteemed Charlotte restaurant, Heirloom, welcomed Chris and two Asheville chefs to his restaurant to cook every single recipe in the book with him. It was an entire day of testing, tasting, and plating; they had leftovers for the rest of the week. Peter Taylor, a Charlotte photographer, captured each dish to accompany the recipe in the book. Peter beautifully photographed okra in the raw for the cover and other featured pages. The book had finally come together. The Utopian Seed Project was the outcome of his okra book research. It is a nonprofit Chris runs to support diversity in farming and in culinary creations worldwide. Part of the project is doing crop variety trials. In addition to the
Chris explored all of the possible uses and methods of cooking okra. Fried, stewed, roasted, pickled, dried, boiled—you name it. Chris learned some cultures celebrate the slime, aka the “S-Word.”
trial he did for the book in 2018, he grew another 50 different varieties of okra this year for the project. “So that’s 126 varieties in the last two years. USDA has over 1,000 okra accessions in their gene bank. India has over 4,000 accessions in their gene bank,” Chris explains. If you’re not a fan of one variety, there are thousands of others to try. The most common variety farmers grow is Clemson spineless. Luckily, if you’re a beginner gardener,
growing okra in your backyard is easy, even if you have only a little space. You can grow a lot of it and quickly since it is not as susceptible to pests and diseases as other vegetables. “Put seeds in the ground in May so you’ll be harvesting throughout the summer until the first frost,” Chris says. There is a chapter dedicated to how to eat okra once it gets cold. When there’s an abundance of okra, Chris likes to slice it into rings and dehydrate it so he will have dried okra rings in jars all fall and winter. He prefers making okra soup and gumbo with the dried okra. The moisture is restored with extra flavors once the okra is put into a stock or roux. So light up the stove and see how you can warm up your kitchen with new recipes this fall. Chris Smith’s “The Whole Okra: A Seed to Stem Celebration” is rich with history, advice, recipes, and humor. Thanks to him, skeptics can now whole-heartedly enjoy and properly prepare this misunderstood Southern ingredient.
TOUR VIRGINIA’S OLDEST DISTILLERY You’re just a short trip from long-lived traditions! Since the repeal of Prohibition in Virginia, A. Smith Bowman Distillery has produced award-winning spirits, including the World’s Best Bourbon two years in a row. Experience complimentary tours & tastings — 7 days a week! 540-373-4555 | asmithbowman.com 1 Bowman Drive, Fredericksburg, VA 22408
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quick BITE
Magpies by Wendy Dimitri photos courtesy of Magpies
I
ndustrial Engineer and self-taught baker Aarthi Parthasarathy and 13-year old daughter, Addy, wanted to build memories together while giving their community something delicious to enjoy. Enter Magpies, short for Magical Pies. A fancy “uncrustable” pie, these 4-inch hand pies look like empanadas. All pies boast creative sweet flavors, with
savory versions coming soon. There are similar 5-inch mini pie versions as well, and 9-inch pies can be custom ordered. “It was Addy’s idea because she loves to eat pies so much,” Aarthi explains. “The name is a result of us wanting all of our customers to experience a magical feeling and taste when they eat our pies.”
Top: Magpies seasonal cherry pies ready for the tasting. Left: Magpies signature “Hand pie” available in several seasonal flavors.
Enter Magpies, short for Magical Pies. A fancy “uncrustable” pie, these 4-inch hand pies look like empanadas. All pies boast creative sweet flavors, with savory versions coming soon.
And that is definitely true. Case in point: The Chocolate Coconut Caramel Pie offers the richness of chocolate and the cool taste of coconut with melted caramel baked inside. The Banana Nutella Pie delivers all the sweetness of fresh bananas and everyone’s favorite chocolate spread with the bonus of hazelnuts. Other fan favorites include the Strawberry Cream Cheese, PB&J, and the ultimate comfort pie— Apple. All ingredients are locally sourced from farmers the duo has personally met. Believing that their pies also support a mission,
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Aarthi and Addy created Baked for a Good Time—a community program of weekly pie giveaways to deserving members of the community. Members of that list include teachers, fire departments, librarians and other community service members, as well as low income families. Magpies can be found at your local farmers’ markets around Charlotte, but you can also bring them to your next gathering because they cater, too! This is your invitation learn more about Magpies at www.enjoymagpies.com.
Sip of Time
Old North Shrub puts a current spin on colonial-era drink by Molly Halpin
J
ason Alexander of Free Range Brewing longed for an exciting, non-alcoholic beer alternative to serve on draft. So he called on farmer-turned-chef-turnedfarmer Jamie Swofford to craft a delectable concoction. The result? Old North Shrub, a botanical beverage brewed with fruit, sugar and vinegar that is a reinvention of a traditional colonial shrub. I met Swofford at Free Range Brewing where the whole endeavor
began. The brewery is tucked away with Amelie’s in a corner of NoDa that is quiteter, but just as creative and colorful as its East 36th Street counterpart. When I walked in, it became clear that the friendship between Swofford and Alexander did not seem unlikely at all. They both appeared to have a love for creating, testing limits and opening people’s minds. Free Range is reminiscent of a state fair—bright and somewhere
Traditionally, shrub was made with the excess vinegar used to preserve fruit before they had refrigeration. They would take fruit, layer it with sugar, and pour vinegar on top.
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Clockwise from left: Free Range Brewing where Shrub started. Photo booth and colorful seating give a state fair vibe to the brewery.
only a good time can be had. The colorful chairs, natural light and the simple but bright art catch your eye. Much like Old North Shrub, all the elements are maverick and somewhat intimidating, but when you put them together, it all works. Everything about the shrub and the brewery was, for lack of a better word, fun. Their friendship goes back to three or four years before Free Range opened its doors. A bond formed as both strive to layer flavors to create something you can’t get anywhere else. “[We] have a relationship where we can talk in flavors,” Swofford explained. “He did with beer what I was doing with food in the kitchen—not just add some garlic to that, but at the perfect time.” In working together and knowing Swofford’s background as farmer and chef, Alexander trusted Swofford to create something to serve at Free Range that was non-alcoholic and strictly, not Kombucha. Swofford started researching, and quickly “went down the rabbit hole” of vinegar-based drinks. What he found ranged from Posca, a Roman-era beverage that soldiers drank before battle, to Switchel or Haymakers Punch, which was made in the Caribbean and consumed by farmers in the field to stay hydrated. Each drink is differentiated by the type of sugar used. “Ozemail is using honey, shrub is using sugar, Switchel is using molasses or, up north, they
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Free Range is reminiscent of a state fair—bright and somewhere only a good time can be had. The colorful chairs, natural light and the simple but bright art catch your eye. would use maple syrup,” Swofford said in summing up his research. Old North Shrub, as the name suggests, is closest to shrub, which is made with fruit, herbs, sugar, and vinegar. Traditionally, shrub was made with the excess vinegar used to preserve fruit before they had refrigeration. They would take fruit, layer it with sugar, and pour vinegar on top. After they used the fruit, they would save the remaining liquid to drink. “But, when you tell the FDA that you are going to put some sugar and vinegar on fruit and leave it on the counter overnight, they won’t go for that.” As a result, Swofford
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has modernized the technique and says he brews it more like a beer. He chooses a fruit then adds different botanicals to create a beverage that can stand on its own. “I try to focus on one main flavor and then add things at different times to bring out these little floral notes or herbal notes and then finish with the vinegar to drop the pH down.” Being a farmer himself, Swofford wants to support the trade. He chooses his flavors based on what’s in season, what he can forage himself, and what’s being grown on the local farms around North Carolina. Most notably, he uses ginger. “I use ginger root in two flavors and then I use the stalk,
The first thing I noticed as he poured the shrub into the three small glasses was the color. They were bright and reflected their seasons: The spring flavor, Two in the Bush, was a lovely coral pink; The Fuzz, the peach summer flavor, shined in a sunset orange; and State Grape, the fall flavor, produced a cool burgundy.
Farmer-turned-chef-turned-farmer Jamie Swofford celebrates his Old North Shrub varieties.
the ginger grass, in another flavor,” he says, adding that he typically buys around 75 pounds between his two suppliers, Mary Roberts at Windcrest Farm and Sherry Greene at Greene Family farms. Old North Shrub currently comes in five flavors that are rotated seasonally: The Fuzz, a peach and lime basil-based flavor with notes of turmeric and peppercorn; State Grape, a muscadine-based flavor that incorporates ginger, hibiscus and rose hips; Two in the Bush, a spring flavor that uses strawberries, chamomile and lemon verbena; , Pink Lady, a winter flavor with an apple, ginger spice bush; and Pine and Dandy, another winter flavor that doesn’t have any fruit at all but, uses spruce tips, rosemary, and dandelion root with notes of ginger and turmeric. They also will have the occasional experimental flavor on draft at Free Range. “I am able to work with new ideas and thoughts,” Swofford says, “There’s a blueberry flavor right now. Blueberries are so expensive and have such a short season that I could never
really pull one off in a bottle, but we can do a keg here and people can try it.” I was able to taste Two in the Bush, State Grape, and The Fuzz. The best way to drink it is one part shrub to four parts sparkling water. “Even flat water works, but something about the bubbles just elevate the flavor and open up other flavors,” Swofford says. They kindly pulled out and tapped a keg of soda water just for the occasion. The first thing I noticed as he poured the shrub into the three small glasses was the color. They were bright and reflected their seasons: The spring flavor, Two in the Bush, was a lovely coral pink; The Fuzz, the peach summer flavor, shined in a sunset orange; and State Grape, the fall flavor, produced a cool burgundy. It is hard to describe because you cannot compare it to another drink or flavor. The unique combinations that Swofford uses really makes the shrub seem as foreign as it sounds. “That is what I want,” Swofford says, “I want to open people’s minds up a little bit.”
All three were pleasantly sweet, and all completely threw my expectations. Like most people, I heard vinegar and expected tart. After trying the shrub, I agree that it is better described as a botanical beverage than a drinking vinegar. The unique flavor combinations worked together in inexplicable ways. If you asked if black peppercorn, peach and turmeric would make a good combination, I would have said no. I would still say no, but using his experience as a chef and knowledge gained from a near lifetime of farming, Jamie Swofford makes it work. You can be on the lookout for Swofford over the next few months at winter and holiday markets where he has a popup shop with his partner, Kia. “[She] has a small pie business and she will sell slices of pie and I will pour shrub drinks. ” They call the shop Sweet and Sour. “I would do a ‘Not Toddy’ with spicy ginger ale and the Pink Lady warmed up and people really like it—it’s like a mulled cider.” He also plans to bottle his apple molasses, which he uses in the Pink Lady and his two strawberry and peach-flavored fruit vinegars. In the meantime, Old North Shrub can be found on tap at Free Range Brewing and at a variety of bottle shops and breweries around North Carolina. Find the list on the Old North Shrub Website: oldnorthshrub.com.
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PROFILES
Vinegar Pie Don’t let the name fool you. This delectable dessert is a historic treasure. by Brianna Melanson photos courtesy of Chef Steven Goff
W
hen you open the AUX Bar menu, you won’t find apple, key lime, or pumpkin pie. Instead, you’ll see Vinegar Pie atop the dessert section. You may be thinking: What in the world is vinegar pie and why would I eat something that tastes like vinegar? Actually, it’s a custardy blend of sweet and sour, but definitely not overly sweet like chocolate pie. It’s commonly compared to the Southern favorite, chess pie. “I like the food we make here to be simple food done well, and I feel our vinegar pie represents that dessertwise,” says Steven Goff, executive chef and co-owner of AUX Bar, an American restaurant in Asheville. “It’s a call back to the poverty stricken history of our region.”
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PROFILES
Goff has transformed the penny-pincher’s pie into something elegant. He stumbled upon a recipe pamphlet from the 1800s that included vinegar pie. The pie was extremely popular in the North and Midwest, especially Kansas.
VinegarStevenPieGoff Courtesy of Chef Aux Bar, Asheville, NC 1x blind baked pie crust 2T butta .5 c brown sugar .5 t cinnamon .5 ginger .5 nutmeg .5 cardamom .5 black pepper 2 c cider vinegar 4 eggs Combine all but butter in double boiler. Wisk to nappé. Pour into prepared crust. Bake at 350° for 35-45 minutes until pick comes out clean. May also sub flavored vinegars or serve dusted and bruléed.
Vinegar pie, dubbed the “make-do pie” or “desperation pie,” was invented in the 1800s when ingredients were sparse or too expensive. Sugar, flour, and butter were typically their only options, especially during the winter when fruits weren’t in season. They would have vinegar on hand for pickling foods. Someone desperate for pie decided that cider vinegar could be a tangy replacement for lemon juice or fruit. It was a genius idea, a 19th-century culinary hack. Modern chefs are now rediscovering this oldfashioned pie. Goff has transformed the pennypincher’s pie into something elegant. He stumbled upon a recipe pamphlet from the 1800s that included vinegar pie. The pie was extremely popular in the North and Midwest, especially Kansas. When you order the vinegar pie, it’s served as a small personal pie bursting with color. The base recipe is enhanced and updated regularly by the garnishes and toppings, like edible flowers. Goff uses traditional Appalachian ingredients and fruits that are seasonally FALL-WINTER 2019
available. Sometimes, he’ll infuse the vinegar with blueberries or blackberries to play with the flavors. “We marinate our berries in King Cobra malt liquor and brown sugar, and then we pour that sweet malt liquor reduction over it,” Goff explains. AUX Bar loves to incorporate Hendersonville apples in the fall. For some crunch, the pie is sprinkled with what they call “crack nut,” a blended mix of fried chicken skins and peanuts. Then it all ties together with a dollop of whipped cream. A fork full of all the elements and you’re in heaven. When in Asheville, be sure to see how AUX Bar has taken this 1800s recipe to the next level. Goff ’s vinegar pie proves that artistry can derive from the simplest things. While at AUX: Goff was homeless when he first moved to Asheville, so he has been active in helping the local homeless through AUX. Customers can purchase an AUX wooden nickel off the menu for $5 and then give it to a homeless person to redeem at AUX for a delicious meal.
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GETAWAY
Big Easy Getaway
New Orleans offers an eclectic gumbo of savory cuisine, lively music, and bountiful history
B
by Sara Kendall
eautiful architecture, horse-drawn carriages, and European ambiance make New Orleans one of America’s most captivating cities. Oh, and the food! To-die-for Cajun and Creole cuisine served up in New Orleans restaurants make for a culinary adventure on its own. The allure of New Orleans has many travelers packing their bags for this historic city on the Mississippi River to revel in the Big Easy’s unique take on fun, music, and food.
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GETAWAY
CULINARY ADVENTURES
New Orleans’ food scene is so incredible you won’t find anything like it anywhere else. At the center of this culinary magnificence are the famous cuisines of the region’s Cajun and Creole people. There is a difference between these two styles. Simply put, Cajun is country food and Creole is city food. These distinctive cuisines are found on menus throughout the Crescent City. New Orleans is famous for beignets—hot, powdered, sugar-coated, square doughnuts. No matter what time of day you are craving one of these sugary delights, Café Du Monde is open 24 hours. Expect a line, but most often it’s fast moving. Café Du Monde is a self-seating kind of place, so watch for an empty table and grab it. Their menu is on the napkin dispenser. Pair your beignets with a Café Au Lait, a blend of coffee with chicory and hot milk. Bring cash, since credit cards are not accepted. Located in the Warehouse District and appropriately housed in a renovated warehouse, Cochon delivers elevated Cajun and Southern fare in a casual atmosphere. A Louisiana native, Chef Donald Link draws from his upbringing to create authentic dishes. A few of the appetizing Cajun country flavors on the menu are fried alligator with chili garlic mayonnaise, and catfish court-bouillon—a spicy stew-like dish. Swing by for lunch or dinner for great food in a trendy
atmosphere. It’s often crowded, so you may want to consider reservations. On the corner of Jackson Square, Muriel’s Jackson Square is a classy restaurant serving up traditional Creole favorites. Start with crawfish and goat cheese crepes topped with buttery sauce of chardonnay, onions, tomatoes, and bell peppers. Dine on shrimp creole or blackened Mississippi catfish. End on a sweet note with a slice of carrot cake, ice cream sandwich, or Saints or Sinners—layers of angel food cake, peanut butter mousse and devil’s food cake covered with chocolate ganache. A sun-splashed balcony dotted with bright yellow umbrellas and colorful flower boxes makes Royal House Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant an eye-catching restaurant on Royal Street. Housed in the original home of the Tortorici family, it’s a premier restaurant where you can indulge on their specialties—fresh shucked oysters, fried alligator, and shrimp, oyster or alligator po-boys. Learn how to cook classic Cajun and Creole dishes such as gumbo, jambalaya, and pralines at New Orleans School of Cooking. In a 19th-century molasses warehouse, learn the fundamentals of select Cajun and Creole recipes, hear a bit of history and local anecdotes surrounding the origins of these famous dishes. Hearty samples are given for each dish made. If there are leftovers, you can have a second serving.
The famous Cafe du Monde where beignets and chicory and coffee Cafe Au Laits reign.
Elevated cajun and Southern fare can be had at Cochans in the warehouse district. FALL-WINTER 2019
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GETAWAY
Top: The courtyard at Muriel’s Jackson Square. Below: Muriel’s crawfish crepes.
Top: Fried alligator Below: Crawfish Etouffee at the Royal House Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant.
Located in a 19th century molasses warehouse, the New Orleans School of Cooking teaches Cajun classics.
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GETAWAY
WHAT TO SEE & DO
On your first morning, jump on a Segway to get the lay of the land, learn a bit of history, and have a ton of fun. The experts at City Segway Tours will take great care of you. If you’ve never ridden a Segway, you will watch a safety video, learn the basic skills, and go on several test rides around the shop before you head out. On the tour, your knowledgeable guide will stop at various attractions for you to learn about some of the wonderful places in the French Quarter and point out fun places to experience on your own. In New Orleans, trolleys are called Streetcars. Tennessee
William’s Pulitzer Prizewinning play, A Streetcar named Desire, made this mode of transportation famous. Riding on them is so much fun, and it’s an affordable experience while in The Big Easy. Facing the Mississippi River in the French Quarter, Jackson Square is a historic park welcoming 2 million visitors every year. Beautiful landscaping, rich history, and stunning architecture are just three of the many wonderful reasons travelers decide to experience this National Historic Landmark. You will find an open-air artist colony, outstanding restaurants, and
Top: Jackson Square is a historical park in the French Quarter. Below: One of the many beautiful mansions in the Garden District.
Top: Learn a bit of history with the City Segway tours. Below: Streetcars are a fun and affordable way to get around the Big Easy.
tons of shops surrounding this lively city park, with the gorgeous St. Louis Cathedral as a stunning backdrop. Hop on a streetcar to the Garden District and experience Lafayette Cemetery No. 1—the closest cemetery to the French Quarter. Ornate and historic, FALL-WINTER 2019
New Orleans’ unique aboveground cemeteries are places where visitors can learn about the city’s rich traditions. Go on a walking tour, nightly bus tour, or ghost tour. If you enjoy the many freedoms available in America, a must-see is the National WWII Museum. Here,
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Book your trip around one of New Orleans Food & Drink Festivals October • Beignet Fest • Crescent City Blues and BBQ Festival • Louisiana Seafood Festival • NOLA Mac n Cheese Fest • Oktoberfest • Tremé Creole Gumbo Festival
November • Boudin, Bourbon & Beer • Oak Street Po-Boy Festival
December • Winterfest 2019 • Reveillon on the Ridge
Clockwise from top: Lafayette Cemetary, Jazz Player, the pool at Audubon Cottages, and the Hotel Marais.
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GETAWAY isn’t your style, then head over to Frenchman Street—the locals’ version of Bourbon Street. It’s a smaller stretch of city blocks and thinner crowds, but it’s still a lively restaurant and club scene.
you learn of the sacrifices everyday men and women made so that we can enjoy the liberties we so often take for granted. World War II may have ended decades ago, but its lessons and victories must never be forgotten. Frankly, listening to jazz music in New Orleans is very easy to do. Walking throughout the French Quarter, the sounds of jazz float out of cafés, restaurants, and bars as you pass by. Grab a seat and enjoy
a jazz band at many of the venues, including the wellknown Preservation Hall. Known for endless revelry, add Bourbon Street to your itinerary, even if just for a stroll down the iconic street. Also, you can walk with an alcoholic beverage in hand in this city. Depending on what time of day you venture here, many bars and restaurants’ doors are flung open with throbbing music enticing you into their doors. If Bourbon Street
UNIQUE LODGING CHOICES
A rare oasis just one block from Bourbon Street, Audubon Cottages is an unparalleled haven to stay in. Built in the late 1800s, this historic property has seven private one- or twobedroom cottages set in semitropical Second-to-none service from their staff, including your own private butler who will assist you throughout your stay. Situated on a quiet street in the French Quarter, Hotel Le Marais is an upscale boutique hotel where classic
style is blended in a modern way. Surrounded by lush landscape, a brick-lined openair courtyard features a tranquil pool, which is a perfect spot to unwind during your stay. Try to book a room with a balcony overlooking the pool. Built in 1886, the legendary Hotel Monteleone has been family-owned for five generations. Its premier location on Royal Street will put you in the heart of the French Quarter. Inside this elegant old hotel, timeless sophistication graces its 570 guests rooms and 55 suites. The hotel’s famous Carousel Bar is a longtime favorite hotspot. Everyone wants to sit in one of the 25 seats surrounding the revolving bar, which makes one complete rotation every 15 minutes.
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quick TRIP
Journey Toward the Star by Wendy Dimitri | photos courtesy of City of Roanoke
Independent adventurers have their pick of hiking and biking trails, one of the closest being Mill Mountain Park, the trails that lead to the Roanoke Star, the largest, freestanding, illuminated star in the world.
The Texas Tavern is a must go late night Roanoke staple.
S
taying at the Hotel Roanoke is like taking a step back in history. The Tudor Revival architectural beauty first opened in 1882. A masterpiece reflecting the riches of the railroad and the elite clients it brought to town. It sits high upon a hill, the gallant lady that it is, and keeps a watchful eye over the city. While it has been expanded to hold a conference and event center, and rooms now boast modern amenities, the common areas of the original hotel have changed little. Beautiful marble floors, chandeliers and plush seating impress you once the regally dressed doorman guides you through the
entrance. Museum-quality artifacts, such as original furnishing and menus, are on display, paying homage to what this lady has seen in her 137 years. The restaurant offers elegant front-porch dining and the pool deck is gorgeous and refreshing. Venturing down the hill will take you directly to the downtown area. Shoppers and gallery strollers alike will have more than enough to keep them busy here. On weekends, this brick-laid street and town center turns into a hybrid flea, farmer, and crafts market. Locals set up tables, end to end, in the outline of the square and sell everything from food to jewelry; soap to
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secondhand wares. Every table is a unique surprise. Murals are starting to have their place here and everything from interpretive art to old-timely post cards are finding their way on the sides of buildings. However, the most unique features to downtown Roanoke are unquestionably the Dr. Pepper and H&C Coffee advertising signs. Absolutely one of a kind to Roanoke. You will have your choice of eateries on the square, almost all with some type of outdoor seating and many originating from the City Market Building. Mosaic tiles mark each entrance into the City Market Building and the entrance hall is
Grab a brew and a cool view at Big Lick Brewing Co.
vast, but restaurants such as Fork in the Market, Scrambled, and ZeeZee’s Vegan are easy to spot and worth the taste. The cultured will want to spend part of the afternoon at the Taubman Museum of Art where the current exhibit is “Eric Standley: The Lesson of Atticus.” Adding a little activity to the experience, the museum also offers yoga and art classes and even kids’ activities. The adventurous may look to the Orvis shop where Fly Fishing 101 classes take place regularly and are on the house. But if you need more than an intro class, Roanoke Mountain Adventures will give you an outdoor lesson you
QUICK TRIP won’t soon forget. Pick your poison: mountain biking, cycling, paddleboarding, kayaking and tubing. Independent adventurers have their pick of hiking and biking trails, one of the closest being Mill Mountain Park, the trails that lead to the Roanoke Star, the largest, free-standing, illuminated star in the world. The history buff absolutely must take a walk through the Gainsboro neighborhood where the Roanoke civil rights movement began. Established in 1835 and referred to as Old Lick, it developed into a predominantly AfricanAmerican neighborhood. A statue and informative plaques tell the story of a community’s dedication to equal rights. Historical markers highlight the stories behind the houses of Oliver Hill, the civil rights lawyer in Brown v. Board of Education, and Edward R. Dudley,
the first African American United States ambassador. Burrell Memorial, the first medical facility to provide care for African Americans, is also located here. A trip to an outlying area will certainly be rewarded. Local Roots, a restaurant located between the West End and Raleigh Court neighborhoods, is serving up beautiful, delicious, organic farm-to-table dishes. The interior is simple and rustic, the menu changes according to available ingredients, and the service is welcoming and energetic. On the other side of downtown, where seemingly industry still prevails, lies Bick Lick Brewing Company. Craft brews, beer garden, bistro lights and a beautiful mural adorn this refreshing experience. Oh yes, and tacos are just across the street. Tuco’s Taqueria Garaje takes good care of your taco crave before or after your brew.
French toast favorite at Scrambled on Market Square.
No trip to Roanoke could possibly be legit without a visit to Texas Tavern. Although it’s in the smallest building in the business district of downtown, it has big personality. A matchboxsized counter-service-only place, established in 1930, serves up breakfast, burgers, hotdogs and its legendary chili. Hear locals at the counter, at all hours of day and night, asking for chili or “chili with”, meaning “add raw onions on top, please.”
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The beautiful and historic Hotel Roanoke sits high above the city.
It’s good and it’s cheap! A perfect late-night bargain. Roanoke is worth every second of the three-hour drive from Charlotte. An adventure awaits everyone in your touring party.
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final SENTIMENT
Butchery as Legacy I
see butchery as an art,” says David Frye, owner of Frye’s Meat Market in downtown Lake City, South Carolina, which is located a little more than 2 hours southeast of Charlotte. For Frye, butchery is also a family tradition, passed down from his grandfather. Frye shares what this legacy means to him: “My granddaddy, Sidney Frye, was well-known in the Lake City area for his homemade pork sausage, made with his secret family recipe, which I still use today. “I learned the tricks of the trade from him when I was in my early teens. I see customers in my shop now that I saw buying sausage from him all those years ago, as well as their children and grandchildren. They know they can expect custom cuts of locally sourced meat, which was practically a given in the past, but not so much today. “My granddaddy was a stickler for precision and for that, I am blessed. His patient instruction remains my foundation to this day.
My granddaddy, Sidney Frye, was well-known in the Lake City area for his homemade pork sausage, made with his secret family recipe, which I still use today.
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FALL-WINTER 2019
Ona Law Corporate, Nonprofit, Employment Legal Advocate
Terrence F. Ona, Esq.
Ona Law Practicing in North Carolina, District of Columbia and Chicago
202-322-9184 tfona@onalaw.com
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