PetPugDog Book by srini vas

Hi! This is your personal copy of the PetPugDog Book! Even though you are seeing your book and can read it now, FIRST, save it! Look to the upper left hand corner. Click on “File”. A small drop down menu will appear. Within that window, click on “Save As”. That will cause a small window to appear. In that window, you may choose where you wish to save this book. We strongly recommend saving it to your Desktop for easy reference. Once you have saved your book…Happy Reading! Your Special Code is located at the end of this book. We will always be here for you and your Pug! Love, Hugs & Pug Dog Kisses, The PetPugDog Experts

Written by the PetPugDog Experts Created by Dreamz4Duppy Designs

Note: If you have obtained this book in any way other than directly from the PetPugDog website, this means that you have an illegal copy, subject to copyright laws. All text and photos are protected by copyright laws.

Page 1 of 6

Introduction The purpose of the PetPugDog Book & Welcome

The Origin of the Pug Chapter 1: Origin of the Pug

Appearance Chapter 2: The Breed Standard Chapter 3: Variations in Appearance Chapter 4: Colors Chapter 5 Un- descended Testicle

Bringing Your Pug Home Chapter 6: Puppy Supplies to Have Ready Chapter 7: Puppy-Proofing Your Home Chapter 8: Naming Your Pug Chapter 9: Introducing Your Pug to Your Family and Home

Puppy Care Chapter 10: Vaccinations – Needed, Reactions and More Chapter 11: Hypoglycemia Chapter 12: Growth Chart

House Training Chapter 13: House Training Your Pug Chapter 14: House Training an Older/ Senior Pug Chapter 17: Marking Issues

Feeding

Page 2 of 6 Chapter 18: Nutritional Needs Chapter 19: All Puppy and Dog Food Elements Chapter 20: Overweight Pugs

Teething Chapter 21: Teething Issues

Grooming Chapter 22: Shedding Chapter 23: Baths Chapter 24: Brushing and Combing Chapter 25: Nail Care and Dewclaws Chapter 26: Trimming Fur Chapter 27: Anal Glands

Dental Care Chapter 28: Your Pug’s Teeth & Dental Care

Exercise Chapter 29: Offering Proper Exercise Chapter 30: Heatstroke

Training Chapter 31: Training Your Pug to Heel (Walk appropriately next to you) Chapter 32: Sit, Lay Down and Off Commands Chapter 33: Training Your Pug to “Stay” Chapter 34: Training Your Pug to Stop Nipping (Biting at You) Chapter 35: Socialization Training

Behavior Issues Chapter 36: Severe Aggression

Page 3 of 6

Chapter 37: Barking Chapter 38: Housebreaking Set-Back (Housetrained Dog has “Accidents”) Chapter 39: Eating Feces Chapter 40: Eating Grass Chapter 41: Odd Eating Habits Chapter 42: Pug’s who are Bored Chapter 43: When a Pug is Afraid of Thunder Storms Chapter 44: Nesting Behavior Chapter 45: Depression Chapter 46: Begging Behavior Chapter 47: Why a Pug May Shake Chapter 50: Having More Than One Dog Chapter 51: Separation Anxiety Chapter 52: Acting Afraid/ Hiding Chapter 53: Sleep Chapter 54: Digging Chapter 55: Your Pug & Your Baby Chapter 56: Stress & compulsive Behaviors

Health Chapter 57: Pug Breathing Issues Chapter 58: Vomiting Chapter 59: Spaying and Neutering Chapter 60: Daily Checklist Chapter 61: Your Pug’s Paws Chapter 62: Your Pug’s Nose Chapter 63: Your Pug’s Eyes

Page 4 of 6 Chapter 64: Your Pug’s Mouth Chapter 65: Fur Issues Chapter 66: Allergies Chapter 67: Luxating Patella Chapter 68: SHLS & Low Thyroid Chapter 69: Collapsed Trachea Chapter 70: Hip Dysplasia Chapter 71: Fleas Chapter 72: Bad Breath Chapter 73: Constipation Chapter 74: Dog Flu Chapter 75: Slipped Disk Chapter 76: Worms Chapter 77: Asthma Chapter 78: Hyperkinesis –Clinical Hyperactive Pugs Chapter 79: Understanding Parvo Chapter 80: Reverse Sneezing Chapter 81: Acne Chapter 82: Aortic Stenosis Chapter 83: Arthritis Chapter 84: Bloat Chapter 85: Cardiomyopathy Chapter 86: Elongated Soft Palate Chapter 87: Stenotic Nares Chapter 88: Pug Dog Encephalitis

5 of 6 Chapter 89: Ear Issues

Female Pug Issues Chapter 90: Heat – Info for both Male and Female Pugs Chapter 91: Breeding Your Pug Chapter 92: Registering a Litter Chapter 93: Pregnancy for the Pug Chapter 94: Eclampsia – A Pregnancy Issue Chapter 95: Mastitis – A Pregnancy/Post Pregnancy Chapter 96: Giving Birth Naturally Chapter 97: Cesarean Sections Chapter 98: Pyometra

Newborn Puppy Care Chapter 99: Bottle Feeding & Tube Feeding a Newborn Chapter 100: Weaning a Pug Puppy Chapter 101: Milestones for the Pug Newborn

Age Chapter 102: The True Age of Your Pug Chapter 103: Signs of Aging & Health Issues for Seniors Chapter 104: Keeping Your Pug Comfortable During the Senior Years

Keeping Your Pug Safe and Happy Chapter 105: Microchipping Chapter 106: Your Pug in Your Car Chapter 107: How to Keep Your Pug Happy

Pug Quotes Chapter 108: Pug Quotes to Warm Your Heart

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Pug Terminology Chapter 109: Understand Terms used in Regard to the Pug

A Collection of Canine Short Stories Chapter 110: Only Then Did I Really Know Chapter 111: Unconditional Chapter 112: As the Man… Chapter 113: Henry’s Hesitation Chapter 114: Don’t Sneeze Chapter 115: The Seasons Chapter 116: Your Special Email Address & Code for any Pug Questions

Congratulations! You are either thinking about bringing a Pug into your family or you already have the most lovable, amazing dog breed in the world! We wish you and your Pug a fantastic life together, one rich with bonding, fun and a forever friend! This book will help you understand your Pug and to help keep your Pug healthy, for a happy and long life together. The purpose of this book is to help you through every step of owning a Pug…from the moment a Pug is born…to caring for your senior dog…and everything in-between. During the course of this book, certain brand names are mentioned. This is simply because the PetPugDog Experts personally like these products. You do not have to use them if you do not wish to. We are not professionally associated with any products mentioned in the book. Great care has been taken to provide detailed, accurate information. However, each Pug is an individual; therefore when in doubt about any health issue or behavioral issue, we strongly recommend speaking with your dog‟s veterinarian. In emergency situations, we strongly recommend seeking immediate help for your Pug at the closest animal hospital or canine health facility. A lot of time and effort has been put into creating this book and we are the sole copyrighted owner of the information contained in it. Enjoy your journey into The PetPugDog Book: The Secret Keys for a Happy & Healthy Pug.

The brown shaded area shows where the Shang Dynasty ruled

Chapter 1: Where the Pug Came From

Although no one knows for certain, most agree that the Pug originated in China around 2,500 years ago. During the time of the Shang Dynasty, Chinese drawings and scrolls suggest that three types of small dog predominated at the time - the lion dog, the Pekingese, and the Lo-sze. The Lo-sze, from which modern-day Pugs are thought to have descended, was distinguished by its short face and short coat, its elastic skin and the prince mark on its forehead. A prince mark comprises three wrinkles and a vertical bar on the forehead, which together form the Chinese character for “prince”. The Dutch brought the Pug-type breed into Europe. The dog soon became very popular and became chosen to be the official dog of the House of Orange in the Netherlands. The Pug's popularity soared when a dog named Pugpey saved the life of Prince William III‟s grandfather, Prince William the Silent. Prince William the Silent was sleeping in his tent at Hermigny during a war against Spanish forces. While assassins approached the tent, Pugpey began barking and scratching to warn his master, finally jumping on William's face to wake him. 9 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Although Pugpey is described as a “white little hound” it can reasonably be thought, from other parts of Pugpey's description, that he actually was an ancestor of the modern Pug. Pugs arrived in France around the time they arrived in England. The breed was known as the Carlin in France, after an actor named Carlin. It is thought that the term Carlin, probably refers to resemblances between the actor's black mask and the Pug's. Pugs in America The first Pug imported to the United States arrived shortly after the American Civil War. The breed was accepted by the American Kennel Club (AKC) in 1885. From 1900 to 1920 only a handful of breeders worked with Pugs, and many shows drew no Pug entry at all. In today‟s world, the Pug is extremely popular and depending on the registry, the Pug falls between the 10th and 20th most popular dog.

Chapter 2: The Breed Standard Overview

In order for a dog breed to be an official dog breed, a standard must be set. These are guidelines which state in detail what the particular dog breed looks like. The AKC standards are used to describe what a “perfect” Pug looks like in the eyes of the American Kennel Club. These standards were set when the Pug was accepted as a dog breed in the AKC. As time goes by, standards are revised. For example, a new color may be added. A different weight may be accepted, etc. This official standard is used to judge the Pug in conformation events (dog show events in which dogs are judged on how close they match the official standard guidelines). Therefore, the majority of Pugs will not match this standard 100%. Every dog is unique. Even Pug breeders who attempt to breed “Show Quality Pugs” will always have Pug puppies who are “Pet Quality”. There is absolutely nothing wrong with having a pet quality Pug for a pet. The only thing that this means is that the puppy may show a sign of not perfectly fitting the very strict and very rigid guidelines of the AKC. The Pug is in the AKC‟s Toy Group, with the standard weight currently set at 1418 pounds.

The AKC Standards as of 2009 for the Pug are: General Appearance Symmetry and general appearance are decidedly square and cobby. A lean, leggy Pug and a dog with short legs and a long body are equally objectionable. Size, Proportion, Substance The Pug should be multum in parvo, and this condensation [which means “by summary”] (if the word may be used) is shown by compactness of form, well knit

proportions, and hardness of developed muscle. Weight from 14 to 18 pounds (dog or bitch) desirable. Proportion square. Head The head is large, massive, round–not apple-headed, with no indentation of the skull. The eyes are dark in color, very large, bold and prominent, globular in shape, soft and solicitous in expression, very lustrous, and, when excited, full of fire. The ears are thin, small, soft, like black velvet. There are two kinds–the "rose" and the "button." Preference is given to the latter. The wrinkles are large and deep. The muzzle is short, blunt, square, but not upfaced. Bite-A Pug's bite should be very slightly undershot. Neck, Topline, Body The neck is slightly arched. It is strong, thick, and with enough length to carry the head proudly. The short back is level from the withers to the high tail set. The body is short and cobby, wide in chest and well ribbed up. The tail is curled as tightly as possible over the hip. The double curl is perfection. Forequarters The legs are very strong, straight, of moderate length, and are set well under. The elbows should be directly under the withers when viewed from the side. The shoulders are moderately laid back. The pasterns are strong, neither steep nor down. The feet are neither so long as the foot of the hare, nor so round as that of the cat; well split-up toes, and the nails black. Dewclaws are generally removed. Hindquarters The strong, powerful hindquarters have moderate bend of stifle and short hocks perpendicular to the ground. The legs are parallel when viewed from behind. The hindquarters are in balance with the forequarters. The thighs and buttocks are full and muscular. Feet as in front. Coat The coat is fine, smooth, soft, short and glossy, neither hard nor woolly. Color The colors are fawn or black. The fawn color should be decided so as to make the contrast complete between the color and the trace and mask. Markings The markings are clearly defined. The muzzle or mask, ears, moles on cheeks, thumb mark or diamond on forehead, and the back trace should be as black as

possible. The mask should be black. The more intense and well defined it is, the better. The trace is a black line extending from the occiput to the tail. Gait Viewed from the front, the forelegs should be carried well forward, showing no weakness in the pasterns, the paws landing squarely with the central toes straight ahead. The rear action should be strong and free through hocks and stifles, with no twisting or turning in or out at the joints. The hind legs should follow in line with the front. There is a slight natural convergence of the limbs both fore and aft. A slight roll of the hindquarters typifies the gait which should be free, self-assured, and jaunty. Temperament This is an even-tempered breed, exhibiting stability, playfulness, great charm, dignity, and an outgoing, loving disposition.

Parts of a Pug Below is an illustration of the different areas on a Pug dog:

Chapter 3: Variations in the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Appearance Variations in Pug Ears Their ears are set widely on the head, and there are two accepted types of ears:

The rose ear is one in which the ear folds over and back, usually producing an ear that lays to the side of the Pug's face.

The button ear forward, pointing toward the Pug's eye.

on a Pug is one in which the ears fold

In almost every recognized dog show, the button ear is the preferred look for a Pug for conformance events. Therefore, more points will be given to a Pug dog with button ears (ones folding down toward the dog's eyes).

The Pug Tail A major identifiable element of the Pug is his tail. The tail is set up high on the back, and should be curled tightly.

The double curl (two complete loops) breeders try for.

is the ideal tail that

A single tight loop or twist is acceptable. It is uncommon for the Pug to have a floppy loose tail that bounces over the Pugs back, or a Pug who carries his tail uncurled.

Chapter 4: Pug Colors

Many believe that the Pug can only be 1 of 2 colors… fawn or black. This is not true. The AKC recognized 4 colors: Fawn Silver Fawn Apricot Fawn Black There are also pure silver Pugs, however they are very rare and not recognized in most dog club registries. A silver Pug, most often, needs to be registered as a fawn, even though the dog is clearly silver. Some argue that there cannot be a silver Pug, that the dog must have been cross-bred. However, the silver Pug does exist. Its color is a throwback to its ancestors.

Explanation of Colors Fawn is a color that varies in intensity; therefore there are 3 types of fawn currently recognized by the AKC: Silver fawn, Apricot fawn and basic fawn.

Silver fawn – The silver fawn Pug will be a very light fawn. While dubbed “silver fawn” the coat will actually be a deep cream base. As

you can see above the eyes of this Pug, the silver coloring can be a bit deeper in spots.

Apricot fawn The apricot fawn Pug will have a coat that is a fawn with a tint of orange. As with all Pugs, the muzzle and ears will be black.

Fawn beautiful light creamy tan.

The fawn Pug is the most common color. This is

Black Pugs

True black Pugs have zero fawn on them. If a black Pug has any other color at all, the Pug is not truly a black Pug. This is called a mismark.

The Genes that Make the Colors Each Pug dog has a set of genes (2 genes) that determine color. One gene is the black color and the other gene is the fawn color.

If a Pug has 2 fawn genes, the Pug will be fawn with black markings. If a Pug has 1 black and 1 fawn gene, the Pug will be black, as the black gene is stronger and dominates over the fawn color gene. If a Pug has 2 black genes, the Pug will be black. Therefore, the only way for a Pug to be fawn is for both color genes to call out for fawn.

Silver the color is unmistakable.

This is a true, rare silver Pug. As you can see,

Thumbmarks The darkened spot centered on Pug‟s forehead that is known as a thumbmark or a diamond. This area is formed by the wrinkles on the forehead.

Albino Pugs

Any dog breed may have an occasional albino, this is very rare among any animal. This is much different than an all white dog. Albinos lack all pigmentation. Therefore, an albino Pug will have a pink nose, pink lips and pink eyes. As you can see, this albino Pug is pure white, with a pink nose, inner ears, lips…and although it is difficult to see in the photo, eyes lack color as well.

The Belly Color of a Pug The belly color of a Pug may be: Pink White

A combination of colors with spots The coat color of a Pug can and often does carry down to the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s belly. It is normal is the belly area develops spots. The spots are most often random and can be a dark color, pink or just about anything in between. Exposure to sunlight often can turn a pink areas to black or spotted. With some dogs, the a darker color may appear during warm months when the dog is outside more and then lessen or fade away in colder months when the Pug is indoors more often. The only time that one must be worried about belly color is if a black marking is raised above the level of the normal skin. This can point to skin conditions or even skin cancer and should be looked at by a veterinarian right away.

Chapter: 5 Un-descended Testicle Overview

Once in a while, a male Pug may have an un-descended testicle.

This means that only 1 of his testicles will “drop” and the other will remain inside the dog‟s body. If a male dog has none or only one testicle he should be neutered, as soon as he is old enough to handle the surgery. Retained testicles are not normal, are caused by a genetic defect and can cause many problems inside the body. A dog with a single visible testicle can manufacture sperm, breed and reproduce but the genetic defect will be passed on to his puppies which is highly undesirable.

What Health Issues this Can Cause If left in the body, that testicle may cause a specific kind of tumor, described as tumor cellular sertoli, which is malign. This most commonly occurs after the age of 6 years, however can develop at any age. Therefore, treatment is recommended as soon as possible.

Treatment To solve the problem, your veterinarian can remove the un-descended testicle although since this dog should not breed, it is recommended to have both removed; thus performing a full neutering.

Chapter 6: Puppy Supplies to Have Ready

Things will run much smoother if you plan ahead and have most, if not all, of your puppy care items already in your home. 1. A dog crate. Even if you are not planning on crate training your Pug puppy you will still want to have a dog crate. Why? Because the crate will be used to: a. Travel with your puppy. Whether by airplane, bus or train you will need to place your puppy in a crate. b. Bring your puppy to the veterinarian. Many vets have rules that all puppies and dogs are to be crated when coming in for a checkup. This is done to help control the spread of infectious diseases (such as Kennel Cough or Dog Flu) and to keep all of the animals under control. Can you imagine what that waiting room would be like if all of the dogs and cats were running around? c. Keep your puppy safe for car drives. Many dogs are injured each year inside their owner‟s cars. This does not only happen if an accident is to occur. With your Pug loose in the car, just breaking quickly can send your little dog off of the seat, causing potentially severe injury. Either crating or a dog seatbelt harness should be used. d. To keep your puppy out of harm‟s way if there are a lot of visitors in your home. Even the best trained dog can be accidently stepped on and this will be more prone to happen as the number of people in your house increases. Should a quick rush of people come in or if you intentionally invite guests over, you will want to be able to crate your Pug if you do not have a separate room to keep them in.

2. Puppy food. It is important to the health of your puppy that any food changes are done slowly. Therefore, you will want to find out exactly which brand of dog food the puppy has been eating. Many Pug breeders offer samples of puppy food to new owners. However, most samples last for 1 or 2 days. You will want to have 1 months worth of puppy food in your home that your Pug is already used to eating. This will ensure that you have enough as you slowly change over to a new food.

3. Karo Syrup. It is not common, but all puppies can develop hypoglycemia. This is a fast and dangerous drop in blood sugar. Without quick treatment, this can be fatal. Any owner of a Pug puppy from the age of 8 weeks to 4 months should have Karo Syrup on hand. This is a malt-flavored paste which contains sugar and vitamins. At the 1st signs of hypoglycemia, this should be put on a finger tip for the puppy to lick off or gently rubbed on the roof of the puppy‟s mouth.

4. Dog collar, harness and leash. Your leash should be 6 feet long for optimal training. You may find that having a harness helps with the aspect of Heeling Training. You will want a collar to hold your puppy‟s dog tags. Remember that your puppy will be growing very fast; therefore you may not want to invest a large sum of money for their first collar unless it is adjustable to fit an adult Pug. You will not want to obtain a collar that tightens once on your puppy. A buckle collar is recommended

Buckle Collar:

Breakaway Collar:

It may sound like a rare occurrence, however we know of too many puppies that have choked to death when left alone for even 5 minutes and their collar caught on something, such as the knob on a cabinet door. Therefore, you may wish to have a “breakaway” collar for when you are inside of the home. The “breakaway” collar will do as the name implies, it will break off of the dog when too much pressure is applied. This can save your puppy’s life. Then, when you do go for walks, etc you can use the buckle collar.

a. b. c. d. e. f. g.

Dog shampoo Dog conditioner Dog brush Dog comb Dog toothpaste Dog toothbrush or dog finger toothbrush Soft wash clothes

6. Dog food dish and water dish a. For puppies, it is best to use food and water dishes that are shallow. This is so that the puppy does not bang its head against the rim of the bowl when eating or drinking. b. For Pugs of any age, food and water dishes made of ceramic or stainless steel are recommended. Some puppies and dogs are allergic to plastic dog bowls. For this reason, it is better to be safe than sorry. Ceramic or stainless steel bowls/dishes will ensure that there will not be an allergic reaction to the containers which hold the puppy food and water.

7. Sleeping Supplies. You may wish to have your new puppy sleep in your bed; however remember that this can very quickly become a habit that will be very hard to reverse; therefore think carefully about this and if you want your Pug to sleep in your bed for the next 14 or 15 years. If this fits your lifestyle, there is nothing wrong with this. If not, it is suggested to obtain a soft and cozy dog bed. If used from day one, your Pug puppy will learn to love their bed. You can always cuddle with your puppy until it is time to sleep and then gently put them down into their own bed.

8. Toys. Toys are a very important part of a puppy‟s life. They are the puppy‟s prized possessions. Most puppies enjoy having objects that are “just theirs”. Your Pug will need toys that actually are helpful for their needs. Toys are needed for: a. Entertainment b. Teething needs Dog toys should be of high quality and fit the puppy‟s needs. Teething toys will be needed; these are dog toys that can be put inside a freezer to be made nice and cold to help soothe the gums of a teething puppy. Interactive toys are needed to keep a puppy stimulated. Toys that make noise and/or having moving parts are perfect. You will also find that obtaining some dog toys which hold treats inside will come in very handy for keeping a puppy busy when you are away.

9. Baby gates (optional). Depending on the layout of your home, you may find baby gates very useful for blocking off certain rooms in your home that you do not want your Pug puppy venturing into.

10. A Good Veterinarian. Most breeders, as stated in the sales contract, will ask that you bring your new puppy to a veterinarian within a certain amount of time from the day you bring your Pug home. This is generally within 24 to 72 hours. This protects: a. The breeder, as most guarantee against genetic health issues and having your veterinarian confirm that the puppy is healthy gives that breeder proof that the pup did indeed go home to you healthy. b. The puppy, although the puppy most likely had a “well puppy check” right before coming home to you, it is best to have this complete medical exam to be sure of the puppy‟s health. c. For you, having a puppy is a big responsibility; you will want to make sure that you start off with a healthy puppy so that you can work at keeping them that way! The best veterinarian may not be the closest one to your home. It is suggested to interview with at least 3 veterinarians within reasonable driving distance. You can ask to set up an appointment specifically to meet the veterinarian and spend time getting to know about him/ her and their practice. You will want to ask: How many Pugs they currently have as patients. You will want a veterinarian who has at least a few Pugs as patients. If they take calls after the office has closed. You will want this answer to be “yes”. What their backup is for weekends/ after-office times. You will want to know that if something happens on a Saturday morning at 2 AM that someone will be able to help you. If they ever perform house calls and under which circumstances they do so. There may be instances in which you deem your Pug too sick to travel. How long they have been in practice. While a new veterinarian may be wonderful, we do recommend choosing someone who has been in practice for at least several years. Their rules for bringing in a sick puppy. You will want this answer to be that the sick puppy is crated and even perhaps brought in through a separate door; as if you are ever there for a simple checkup you will want your own Pug protected from potentially very contagious diseases.

Chapter 7: Puppy-Proofing Your Home Overview

Bringing home a puppy or dog is very much like bringing home a baby. You must make your home safe. Pug puppies and dogs are very curious. It will surprise you just how curious your puppy can be! It only takes one moment for you to lose track of where your Pug is and for your dog to be injured or be poisoned. For this reason, puppy-proofing should be done before you bring home your Pug.

Indoor Dangers Plants. Many plants are toxic to a Pug puppy. The list is quite long; however keeping these plants out of reach of your puppy or completely removing them from your home will ensure that your precious Pug can never ingest these toxins. Your Pug will become sick (or worse) if ingesting: o Aloe Vera o Christmas Rose o Amaryllis o Chrysanthemum o Apple (seeds) o Clematis o Apricot (pit) o Corn Plant o Arrowhead o Crocus o Asparagus Fern o Croton o Avocado o Crown of Thorns o Autumn Crocus o Crown Vetch o Azalea o Cyclamen o Baneberry o Daffodil o Begonia o Delphinium o Bird of Paradise o Devil‟s Ivy o Black Locust o Dicentra o Black Walnut o DieffenbaPuga o Bleeding Heart o Donkey Tail o Boston Ivy o Dumb Cane o Caladium o Dutchman‟s Breeches o California Poppy o Easter Lily o Calla Lily o Elderberry o Carnation o Elephant Ears o Castor Bean o English Ivy o Ceriman o Eucalyptus o Cherry (seeds, wilting o Fiddle-leaf Fig leaves & pit) o Florida Beauty o Pugnese Evergreen o Four O‟Clock o Pugves o Foxglove

o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

Foxtail Fruit Salas Plant German Ivy Gladiola Hemlock Holly Honeysuckle Hurricane Plant Hyacinth Hydrangea Iris Ivy Jack in the Pulpit Japanese Yew Jerusalem Cherry Jimson Weed Jonquil Kalanchoe Lamb‟s quarter Lantana Larkspur Laurel Lily Lily of the Valley Lobelia Locoweed Lords- and – Ladies Lupine Marigold (Marsh Marigold) Mayapple Mexican Breadfruit Milkweed Mistletoe Monkshood Morning Glory Mother-in-Law Plant Mountain Laurel Mushrooms Narcissus Nephthytis Nightshade

o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

Oak Tree (buds and acorns) Oleander Onion Peace Lily Peach (wilting leaves and pits) Pencil Tree Philodendron Pigweed Poinsettia Poison Ivy Poison Hemlock Poison Oak Poison Sumac Poppy Potato (all green parts) Pothos Precartory Bear Rhododendron Rhubarb Ribbon Catus Rubber Tree Sago Palm Schefflera Shamrock Plant Snake Plant Snow on the Mountain Sorghum Star of Bethlehem Stinging Nettle Stinkweed Swiss Cheese Plant Taro Vine Toadstools Tobacco Tomato Plant (entire plant except ripe fruit) Umbrella Tree Water Hemlock Weeping Fig Wisteria Yew

Medications. Keep all medications, including any dog supplements, in a safe area the puppy cannot access. Do not leave vitamins or other pills in

reach or on a coffee table. A determined Pug can quickly chew through a plastic container. Puppies are surprisingly quick at pulling things off of end tables or other low surfaces. Trash. Put bathroom trash cans up high where your dog cannot get into them. Sanitary supplies and used razors are the most common trash dangers. Sinks, Bathtubs and Toilets. Full sinks, bathtubs, or toilets with open lids can be a drowning hazard. Avoid automatic toilet bowl cleaners if you cannot keep your puppy from drinking out of the toilet. If you have a youngster in your home who uses a step to reach the toilet, your Pug will find a way to use it also. Cleaning Supplies. Keep cleaning supplies in high cupboards or use childproof latches to secure lower cupboards. Remove the puppy from the area when you are using liquid or spray cleaners. They can get into the eyes of a curious puppy, and the vapors can be harmful to lungs and eyes. Electrical cords. These are a big danger to puppies, who often chew on them while playing. This can cause burns in the mouth, electrical shock, or death by electrocution. Tie up loose electrical cords and keep them out of sight. Run cords through purchased spiral cable wrap, cord concealers, or even PVC pipe to keep them safe from your puppy. Small Objects. Keep small objects (coins, jewelry, needles and thread, straight pins, yarn, dental floss, rubber bands, paper clips, tiny childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x;s toys, etc.) out of your puppy's reach. Jewelry and coins are easily swallowed and can contain metals that are toxic. Keep fishing line, hooks, and lures stored out of reach. Remember to not just do this when about to bring your Pug home, a check should always be made. Look on the floors each day and immediately pick up any small objects. An ingested penny can cause poisoning. We know of a puppy who died this way! Stairs. Close off stairs with a baby gate. Cat Litter Boxes. Many dogs will eat cat feces from the litter box if given the chance. This can be a dangerous health hazard. Cat litter can cause an intestinal obstruction, and in addition, any intestinal worms the cat has may be passed on to the dog. One solution may be to put the litter box behind a baby gate, either in a separate room or in a closet with the gate across the doorway. The gate can be raised up from the floor to allow the cat to go under it, unless the dog is able to go under it also. If the cat cannot jump over the gate easily, a stepstool beside the gate can help. Tobacco products. Cigarette, cigars, nicotine gum and patches, contain substances that can be toxic or fatal to dogs. Keep these out of reach of your Pug.

Outdoor Dangers Outdoor Plants. Some outdoor plants and trees can be toxic to dogs. Common ones include: o Potato (all green parts) o Morning glory o Foxglove o Lilly of the valley o Oak (buds and acorns). o Daffodils o Cocoa bean mulch

Chemicals. Make sure all gasoline, oil, paint, lawn fertilizers, insecticides, and auto supplies are placed into secure containers, out of reach. Be especially careful with antifreeze and rat poison, both of which taste good to dogs and both of which can be deadly if ingested. Water. Pools, ponds, and hot tubs should be covered or fenced off. Drainpipes can also pose problems. Sharp Objects. Walk around your property and look for other areas or items that could be a hazard to your puppy, such as broken glass, exposed nails, or other sharp objects. Plan how you will restrict your puppy's access to these areas if sharp objects cannot be removed.

Chapter 8: Naming Your Pug

Naming your Pug is much more important than you may think. The name you choose will decide how well your Pug recognizes that name. This is a huge element in training your dog. In addition, if the name does not fit certain elements, other animals in the home and your Pug may become very confused. Both the number of syllables in the name and the beginning consonants sounds will play a major factor. Dogs do learn to know their names; however dogs generally only pay attention to the first syllable of the word. That is why dog commands are very short. For example, “Sit” instead of “Sit down now”. When an owner does say, “Sit down now”, the dog is listening to and noticing the first syllable: “Sit”. Therefore, if you name your Pug “Jumping Jack Jelly Bean”, your Pug will respond to “Jump” as their name. This does not mean that you need to choose a name with only one syllable. However, the name should have a strong sounding 1st syllable; as you will want your new Pug to have an easy time learning their name. This, of course, is very important in regard to training your dog. If you have other pets in the home, it is best to not choose a name that begins with the same syllable as another pet. For example, “Rocky” and “Roxanne” as this can be very confusing for both of your pets. It will be best to choose a name that begins with a different sound than any other pets and any human family members for that matter too! You will not want your dog‟s name to rhyme with a negative word, the most important being “No”. Since “No” is a 1 syllable word, any name that is also 1 syllable and rhymes with this may sound like “no” to your puppy at times. For example, steer clear from “Joe”, Moe” and any other name with 1 syllable which rhymes with “No”. You may or may not want to avoid naming your Pug one of the most common and popular names. Based on the registration of dogs in the US, the most common names for male and female dogs (of any breed) are: Male dogs: 1. Max

Female Dogs: 1. Princess

2. Jake 3. Buddy 4. Bailey 5. Sam 6. Rocky 7. Buster 8. Casey 9. Cody 10. Duke

2. Molly 3. Lady 4. Sadie 5. Lucy 6. Daisy 7. Ginger 8. Abby 9. Sasha 10. Sandy

The most common names specifically for the Pug are: Pugster & Pugsley Many choose to name their Pug an ironic name. The 5 most popular names meant to be cute because the Pug is strong in appearance and a good sturdy size are: 1. Tiny

2. Fluff

3. Tinkerbell 4. Peewee

5. Bitsy (as in Itsy –bitsy)

Many owners name their puppy based on the puppy‟s coloring or personality. In this way, your Pug name will have meaning and will fit the Pug perfectly. The 3 top names based on personality and colors are: Oreo – With light fawn or silver Pugs with black markings Panda– same as above Wrinkles– for those famous Pug dog face wrinkles No matter what you decide to name your Pug, you will want to use their name as much as possible. Each time you wish to get your Pug to pay attention to you, say their name first. This should be said in a happy, yet confident tone. In time, this will help greatly as calling out your puppy‟s name can stop them right before they are about to have an accident or from walking too far away from you. If you have an opportunity to know in advance which puppy you will be purchasing, you can ask the breeder or other to begin to say the chosen name to your pup as they grow old enough for you to take them home. After 3 weeks of age, a Pug puppy will be able to hear and will have a jump start on knowing their name.

Chapter 9: Introducing Your Puppy to Your Family and Home Overview

When you bring a new Pug home, this is going to be a huge change; for both Pug and all members of your family. The addition to your family will affect other pets that you may have, as well.

Crying Do be aware that is it normal for young puppies to cry when first in their new home. It is a big adjustment to go from Mama and littermates to their new home. It is hard to not “take it personally” and to wonder if you are doing something wrong. However, if you follow all of this advice, you are not doing anything wrong; your puppy just needs a bit of time to adjust. Therefore, crying may be normal, even if the breeder raised the puppy with good socialization skills. This phase will pass and usually only lasts a week or so. You can help by offering all of the comforts needed (including a soft baby blanket and soft toys) If the breeder gave you a toy or blanket with the scent of the puppy‟s littermates and/or Mama, this will help. In many cases, playing a radio on a very soft, low volume setting can help. Before you know it, your new puppy will adjust to you, the family and their new home.

Introduction A young Pug puppy needs a careful and planned introduction into your home. Without this, your new puppy may become very stressed and overwhelmed. Stress on a dog of any age can and usually does cause not only emotional, but physical health problems. As a loving owner, you must take charge to gently show your new puppy their new world, make a smooth introduction to all the people and/or animals that will be their new family and help them feel comfortable and welcomed.

Preparation Before you bring your new Pug puppy home, do prepare. Things will be quite exciting and you do not want the additional chaos of putting out their water bowl, setting up their sleeping quarters and running out to the store for forgotten items. Have all items set up where you wish for them to be and plan to have the house as neat and calm as possible.

All of your friends and family may wish to be there for the arrival of your new Pug; however it is best for the Pug is they meet their immediate new family first and then are introduced to friends, neighbors and other family members at a later date.

Introduction to Human Family Members If you have other immediate family members, you should ask them to be sitting quietly in a room, for your arrival back with your Pug puppy. A pup will feel very overwhelmed if everyone rushes outside. A sudden barrage of loud voices, pats and hugs from a bunch of people can frighten a puppy, even though all intentions are good. In whatever method you obtained your puppy, he or she will most likely already have a sense of you. They will know your smell, your voice and your touch. When you arrive home, an introduction should be made to each individual person, one at a time. Have each person say hello in a calm and pleasant voice. Allow your puppy to smell them and get a sense for who they are. Each person should have a small treat. Too many treats and your puppy's tummy may be full by the time they meet everyone! Children and adults alike should be told to slowly and gently pat your new pup. While a Pug puppy is so cute it is expected that everyone will want to pick the puppy up and hug it over and over; this is not what your new little buddy needs right now.

Introduction to the Home After taking 5 - 10 minutes to meet each person, you can then give your new puppy a tour of the home. They will need to get a good and solid sense of their surroundings. Be sure to show him or her where they can always depend on their water to be. Encourage your puppy to get to know their dog bed; they will need to know it is their own special place to retreat too if things get too stressful. It is best to allow your new dog to have a few days to a week at home with you and your family before you allow neighbors, friends and extended family over. Once your puppy has adjusted to its new home and family, you can then begin a slow introduction to other people. This should only be done after the puppy has had all of their puppy shots. It is suggested to choose 1 person who will feed the new pup and be the main 32 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

caregiver. However, if you have a large family, it is best if a 2nd person stands close by or accompanies that person for walks, etc. In this way, your puppy will become used to knowing who will give them their food, bathes, walks and more. But at the same time, they will understand the presence of the 2nd person. Should the main caregiver ever be unable take care of the dog on a certain day, it will not be a disturbance to the dog's known schedule for that 2nd person to take over the role. Walk your puppy throughout each room of the home. As you do this, point to their important items, saying “Water”, “Toys”, “Bed”, etc. Doing this for the first two weeks will help your new Pug have a sense of security. Once you decide on where to place their water dish, doggie bed, toys and more…do not change the locations. Your Pug needs to know exactly where to go for what they are in need of. You will also want to walk your Pug around the parameter of your yard. While you should always have your Pug on a harness and leash when outside, training your puppy where their “territory” ends will be important in case your puppy gets loose.

Introduction to Other Pets If you have another dog or any other pets, this will be a very important aspect to bringing your new Pug home. One cannot expect current dog and cat pets to suddenly be socialized in the acceptance of a new dog and at the same time expect a new Pug puppy to suddenly know how to get along with other animals. It is unwise to assume that because a pet has a wonderful personality that they will become instant best friends with the new arrival. A sudden change of having a new puppy in the home can trigger quite a mess of chaos if your pets are not ready! Whether you have cats, dogs or both, you should take time well before you bring your new puppy home to make sure that the cat/s or dog/s will get along well with another new dog. You can do this by having a friend, family member, neighbor, coworker or other who has a dog come over for a visit. Ideally, it is best if you can find someone who has the same breed (Pug). If not, the 2nd best option would be to have someone come over who has a dog in the same class. (small dog breed). Allow the animals to feel each other out. Keep a careful eye out for any trouble. If you already have a dog and they stare quietly at the other dog, in almost a frozen state, this can be the posture that is shown before a dog attacks. If you already have a cat, keep an eye out for their behavior also.

The best sign that animals will get along with others is if they ignore each other! This means that they do not see the other as a threat. In time, a dog or cat will get to know the new pet and they can then become best friends. If you are sure that your current pet/s are tolerable of another dog in the home, all should be fine when you bring your new puppy home. Introduction should be slow and calm. An owner must keep watch when the young, new puppy is eating, an older dog may try to show dominance by taking their food. Your current pet/s will feel jealousy if you lavish all of your attention on the new puppy. Hopefully, you have estimated the time that you logically have in one day, to make sure that you can give care and attention to all animals on an equal basis. Before you know it, you new Pug puppy will become a happy and wonderful addition to your home. You will wonder how you ever got by without them!

Chapter 10: Vaccinations Overview

The vaccination of puppies is one of the crucial steps in making sure the puppy will be protected against dangerous and often fatal canine diseases. An owner should never think, “I keep my puppy clean, well fed and do not expose him to other dogs, so I do not need to have my puppy vaccinated”. All puppies must be vaccinated or their lives will most likely be very short. A newborn puppy is not naturally immune to diseases. Though, the puppy will have some antibody protection which is derived from its mother's blood via the placenta. The next level of immunity is from antibodies in the mother‟s milk. This milk, actually called colostrums only gives a puppy antibodies for the first two days. It must be noted that the puppy will only receive antibodies against diseases for which the mother had been recently vaccinated against or exposed to. As an example, a mother that had not been vaccinated against or exposed to parvovirus, would not have any antibodies against parvovirus to pass along to her puppies. The puppies then would be susceptible to developing a parvovirus infection. The age at which puppies can effectively be immunized (protected) is proportional to the amount of antibodies the puppy received from its mother. High levels of maternal antibodies present in the puppies' bloodstream will block the effectiveness of a vaccine. When the maternal antibodies drop to a low enough level in the puppy, immunization by a commercial vaccine will work. There is a period of time from several days to several weeks in which the maternal antibodies are too low to provide protection against the disease, but too high to allow a vaccine to work.

This period is called the window of susceptibility. This is the time when despite being vaccinated, a puppy can still contract the disease. For this reason, any puppy how has not yet had its shots must be kept away from other animals and it is best to limit the number of people who have contact with such a young pup. While each veterinarian may have their own vaccination schedule, vaccinations should always fall very close to the below schedule. When you are obtaining a new puppy, you should be sure to have proof that the puppy received all needed shots before you bring that puppy home. Any ethical, reputable Pug breeder will ensure that the puppies are up-to-date on all puppy shots. Some of these vaccinations will (or certainly should) be given before you obtain your Pug puppy. Although currently 15 states in the US have laws regarding the age limit on which a puppy may be sold, the normal age in which a Pug puppy is ready to go to a new home is between 8 and 12 weeks old. Therefore, your new puppy should have at least 2 or 3 vaccinations when you obtain him or her. Once your puppy has had all of their puppy shots, you can then take them for walks, allow other people and pets to meet them and explore the world together!

Pug Vaccination Schedule 5 weeks Parvovirus: For puppies at high risk of exposure to parvo, some veterinarians recommend vaccinating at 5 weeks. 6 weeks Combination vaccine* without leptospirosis. Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern. 9 weeks Combination vaccine* without leptospirosis. Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern. 12 weeks or older Rabies: Age at vaccination may vary according to your local laws 12-16 weeks ** Combination vaccine Leptospirosis: include leptosporosis in the combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs. Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern. Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if traveling to an area where it occurs.

Adult ***(boosters) Combination vaccine Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs. Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern. Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if traveling to an area where it occurs. Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (time interval between vaccinations may vary according to local law). *A combination vaccine, often called a 5-way vaccine, usually includes adenovirus cough and hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza, and parvovirus. Some combination vaccines may also include leptospirosis (7-way vaccines) and/or coronavirus. The inclusion of either canine adenovirus-1 or adenovirus-2 in a vaccine will protect against both adenovirus cough and hepatitis; adenovirus-2 is highly preferred. **Some puppies may need additional vaccinations against parvovirus after 15 weeks of age. You will want to talk to your veterinarian about this. ***

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, dogs at low risk of disease exposure may not need to be boostered yearly for most diseases. Consult with your local veterinarian to determine the appropriate vaccination schedule for your dog. Remember, recommendations vary depending on the age and health status of the dog, the potential of the dog to be exposed to the disease, the type of vaccine, whether the dog is used for breeding, and the geographical area where the dog lives or may visit. Bordetella and parainfluenza: For complete canine cough protection, some veterinarians will also give vaccinations of: Inra-Trac III ADT. For dogs that are shown, in field trials, or are boarded, it is often recommend having vaccinations every six months with Intra-Trac III ADT.

Why a Pug gets the same dose as any other breed You may wonder why in the world a Pug received the same vaccination dosage as a Poodle or a Saint Bernard. When it comes to de-wormings, amounts are based on body weight and size. However, for a vaccine to work, a certain amount is needed to stimulate the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s immune system. This needed amount is the same whether it is for a 15 lb. Pug or a 5 lb. Pug.

Reactions to Vaccinations Overview

Immunizations (or vaccines) are intended to stimulate the immune system to then protect the dog against that specific infection disease. It is very important to have your Pug receive all needed vaccinations. However, this stimulation of the dog‟s immune system may cause some minor symptoms. Your Pug may react to immunizations in ways that range from soreness at the site of injection to mild fever to allergic reactions. The allergic reactions can range from mild to severe. Mild. Mild reactions include fever, sluggishness, and loss of appetite. Mild reactions usually resolve without any treatment needed. Moderate. The dog‟s skin may show a reaction. This is called Urticaria. This happens when there is a reaction of the skin and shows as hives or bumps. There can also be swelling that happens very quickly, redness on the dog‟s lips, around the eyes, and in the neck region. It is usually extremely itchy. Urticaria may progress to anaphylaxis, which is considered life-threatening. However, Urticaria is the most common reaction in dogs if a reaction is to happen. Severe. The most severe reaction is anaphylaxis. This is a very fast, sudden, severe allergic response that causes breathing difficulties, collapse and possible death. This is very rare. Symptoms usually include sudden vomiting, diarrhea, staggering, rapid drop in blood pressure , swelling of the larynx leading to airway obstruction (and inability to breathe), seizures and cardiovascular collapse or death. This reaction is lifethreatening to a dog. Both anaphylaxis (serious) and urticaria (moderate) are reactions that are triggered by antibodies that the immune system has made to some portion of the vaccine. If this is to happen, it usually happens after the 2nd particular vaccine.

Diagnosis There is no diagnostic test for anaphylaxis or urticaria, but a quick physical exam will allow your veterinarian to quickly know the signs of an allergic reaction to a vaccine.

Treatment Anaphylaxis (the severe reaction) usually occurs soon after vaccination, often while the dog is still in the veterinary clinic.

Anaphylaxis is an extreme emergency. Your veterinarian will begin immediate emergency life support including establishing an open airway, oxygen administration, intravenous fluids to increase blood pressure and drugs such as epinephrine, diphenhydramine and corticosteroids. Dogs that survive the first few minutes usually return to normal health. Urticaria (the moderate reaction) occurs soon after vaccination, often shortly after the animal gets home. Your veterinarian will recommend immediate return to the hospital for treatment. An oral antihistamine such as diphenhydramine (BenadrylÂŽ) may be recommended to initiate treatment. Urticaria is usually treated successfully with injectable corticosteroids like dexamethasone or prednisone. Antihistamines do little to help with acute allergic reactions but may be given by injection to help prevent recurrence of symptoms after steroids wear off. Mild vaccination reactions usually require no treatment. However, if the symptoms persist for more than 24 hours, call your veterinarian.

Home Care and Prevention Be sure to schedule vaccination appointments when you will be available to monitor your dog after the vaccine is administered. Be sure to call your veterinarian with any questions or concerns. Severe vaccination reactions are very rare. The risk of anaphylaxis and urticaria are much rarer than the benefit of the vaccine in most cases. Your veterinarian is the best judge of what vaccines are needed to protect against the diseases in your area. Your veterinarian will record any adverse reactions to vaccines to help prevent those vaccines from being administered again. It is a good idea to also keep a record yourself. Reactions are more commonly associated with vaccines for leptospira, rabies and parvovirus.

Chapter 11: Hypoglycemia Overview

Pug

puppies may be susceptible to a form of low blood sugar called hypoglycemia. This is much more common in small breed dogs. Even though the Pug is the largest of the small breed dogs, he is still a small breed and susceptible to Hypoglycemia, especially when young. This happens when the blood sugar in the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s blood quickly drops. Treatment is needed right away. While this can happen to Pugs and immediate treatment is necessary, this does not mean that a Pug puppy will develop this. The majority of puppies will glide through this age and be just fine. However, since this is fatal without treatment, it is very important to know the signs of Hypoglycemia can help you quickly restore your puppy back to health.

The Age this Most Often Happens If this is to happen, this is most common with puppies from birth to 4 months of age.

What Causes this to Happen Dogs have a very small fat reserve that surrounds their liver. Changes in this reserve may happen when a Pug: Becomes stressed (going to their new home, having too many people greet them if they are not socialized yet, etc) If the puppy uses up a lot of energy in a short amount of time (playing very hard when they are very young) If the puppy misses a meal (it is important to free-feed your Pug until the puppy is 3 months old. After this, meals should be on time, all the time.)

When these things happen, that small fat reserve is quickly used up and the Pug‟s body will then begin to take its blood sugar for energy. It is then that Hypoglycemia may set in.

Prevention Keeping stress at a minimum will help. A young puppy already has enough to handle. A newborn to 8 week old Pug puppy will already need to handle: Being weaned from Mama Being de-wormed Having dewclaws removed (this is not always done) Having vaccinations Learning about baths and grooming At 8 weeks to 10 weeks old, the puppy has the stress of: Entering the new environment of its new home. The puppy must then become accustomed to: New voices New scents New noises A completely new environment – bed, eating area, etc. A sudden change in diet can bring this on – make sure to keep feeding your new puppy the same food that he or she ate while with their breeder until the pup is at least 4 months old and free-fed until 3 months old.

Signs of Hypoglycemia Some puppies go right through this age without any problems. However, an owner must be aware of the signs in order to give treatment immediately Puppies may: Have a sad look on their face Become weak and listless Stagger when trying to walk Fall down Without treatment, the final signs will be: Lying down a lot in a sleeping-like condition. This will not actually be sleep, the puppy can drop deeper and clench its teeth in a seizure and have spasms

The puppy will then go into a coma and eventually will die without treatment Not all Pug puppies will show all of the signs if they do develop Hypoglycemia. If your puppy shows signs of being very sleepy or uncoordinated: Stand your puppy up See if he or she can walk normally

Treatment If your puppy cannot walk normally or shows the other signs of entering Hypoglycemia, you should immediately give sugar to your puppy. You can do this in several ways: Rub Karo syrup on the puppy‟s gums and roof of their mouth – this is the best way to treat this Have the puppy drink water with sugar mixed in Offer a children‟s sugarcoated breakfast cereal

Veterinarian Care If this does not restore your puppy to normal or if the puppy is unconscious or unable to swallow, you must bring the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The veterinarian can then use in IV or injection to correct the puppy‟s blood sugar level. Keeping an eye on your young puppy, knowing the signs and taking quick action will keep your Pug healthy and able to live a long and happy life.

Chapter 12: Growth Chart

Pug puppies grow at remarkably varying rates, so it hard to accurately know what size a puppy will grow to be or at what rate. However, there are general guidelines to help you know what to expect. The final size a dog will reach is determined by genetics, so the best indication of how large any particular puppy will become is the size of his parents, any older siblings, and other close relatives. Your Pug will enter certain phases: Newborn = 0-3 weeks old Weaning stage = 3-7 weeks Transitional puppy stage = 7-12 weeks Teething stage = 12-16 weeks Beginning of independence puppy stage= 4-8 months Juvenile puppy stage= 8 months to 1 year Adult 1 ½ to 2 years old

Growth Rate The Pug usually has the biggest growth spurt between the 3 and 5 month marks. The following is a guideline to help you understand the average growth rate of a Pug:

Birth 4 Weeks 8 Weeks (2 months) 3 Months 4 months 5 months 6 months 7 months 7 months on

Approximately 4 to 9 ounces Approximately 1 – 3 pounds Approximately 2.5 to 3 pounds 4 – 5 pounds 7 – 8 pounds 10-12 pounds 4-16 pounds 14-17 pounds. A Pug may hold steady at this weight now. The Pug will continue to mature in body structure until this age, therefore may gain a few more pounds.

Chapter 13: House Training Your Pug Overview

It is very important to remember that a puppy has absolutely no idea that they are supposed to urinate or eliminate where you want them to. The area that you choose, whether pee pads, newspaper or in an area outside, has no meaning to your Pug until you train them; until then, that pee pad is just another object in the home and the area outside is just a place to run around or play. Your puppy will have no idea that this area means anything until you take the time to train your puppy to understand what is expected. Housebreaking your puppy is not very hard; it does however take a bit of time. An owner cannot expect a puppy to know exactly what to do within a few days. How long does it take to housebreak a puppy? This can take anywhere from 1 week to 1 month. In some cases, it may take even longer. You will be the deciding factor in the success of your Pug‟s housebreaking. It all depends on: Consistency - Showing your puppy what to do every other day will severely limit your puppy‟s success. A puppy needs consistency. They need to be shown where to go each and every time they must urinate or eliminate. If this is done, your success will come much faster. Praise – Puppies and dogs love praise more than anything else. Why? Because your praise: Tells your dog that you love them Gives your puppy self confidence; and a confident dog is a happy dog Reinforces and shows a puppy that they did a good thing. When praised for doing expected actions, your puppy will want to continue pleasing you…to receive the best element in the world: your love.

Beginning Many breeders who breed litters right in their homes will begin to paper train a puppy well before they are ready to go to a new home. This is done because the newborn puppy is too small to go outside and the breeder, of course, does not want urination and feces all over their home. Therefore, even if a puppy is paper trained by the time you become their owner, you will need to begin training in a way that fits what you expect.

Your choices for Housebreaking It is a popular notion that small breed dogs can easily be trained to use a litter box. While this is possible, this is not as easy as it sounds. A Pug may resist or have a hard time using a litter box because: Dogs have a natural instinct to want to “choose just the right spot” to urinate or eliminate. Expecting a Pug to use a litter box forces a dog to have to resist their urge to choose that spot. However, litter box training can be done if you are persistent and you have a Pug who is cooperative. It is also possible to train your Pug to use only newspapers inside of the home; however it is not ideal. Ideally, you will want to teach your Pug to urinate and eliminate outside. Once your Pug is close to a year old, they will be able to hold their needs for about 8 hours, the time that most people are away from home for work. It is important to choose one housebreaking method and then stick to that training. For example, if you want your Pug to use a litter box when it is cold outside but to go out in the yard when the weather is warm, your puppy will become very confused. It is almost impossible for a dog to know that they are supposed to use different methods depending on the weather. Therefore, one method should be chosen and then implemented all the time until your Pug knows exactly what to do. Your choices will be: Litter box– A dog is trained to urinate and eliminate in a litter box, similar to what an indoor cat will do. This can be a good method if you live in a home in which the outside yard is not easily accessible (for example if you live on the 15th floor of a high rise building) or if you live in an area in which the weather is almost always cold. Do keep in mind that this is not the easiest training method.

Outside Method – Your dog is trained to go to a certain area outside to urinate or eliminate. It will be your job to always supervise your Pug. Even if you have a fenced in yard, you will want to keep an eye out in case your puppy decides to try and dig under the fence, finds a small hole to crawl through or another animal gets into your yard. In some locations, there are known reports of hawks swooping down, picking up and carrying away small breed dogs. Once must remember that these things do happen; therefore a Pug should always be supervised.

Indoor Method with Newspapers or Pee Pads – This is not optimal, however for reasons of circumstances, an owner may need to be gone during the day and the Pug will need to urinate or eliminate inside the home. There are several choices with this method, the most being gating off a room or area and offering newspaper or “pee pads” for the puppy.

Understanding Your Puppy’s Limits There are two very important things to remember: 1. Let us first note that a puppy or dog absolutely needs to have water at all times. If water is limited in an attempt to limit the amount of times a puppy must urinate, this is extremely dangerous to the pup. It can even be fatal. Therefore, a constant supply of fresh water is necessary. 2. A puppy can only hold their urine and feces for a certain amount of time. If an owner expects a 3 month old puppy to hold their urine for 6 hours, this will never happen. All puppies are unique in their own ways. However, there is a general guideline as to how long a puppy can hold its needs. This is (age of puppy [in months]) = (number of hours). For example, a 2 month old puppy can usually hold its urine for 2 hours A 3 month old puppy can usually hold its urine for 3 hours…and so on. By the time a Pug is 1 year old, he or she will usually be able to hold on for 8 hours.

How Often a Puppy Must be Taken Outside or to the Litter Box No matter if you choose the litter box method or the outside method, your Pug puppy should always be taken to urinate:

When waking up Immediately after being let out of a crate or pen Right before bedtime Several times throughout the day Any time your puppy makes a motion that they are about to urinate Your Pug puppy should always be taken to eliminate: 15 to 20 minutes after eating

Litter Box Training If choosing this method, do remember that it goes against a dog‟s urge to “choose just the right spot” to do their business. Therefore, some extra patience on your part will be needed. The litter box should be kept in the same area at all times. Your puppy must be able to depend on that litter box always being where they expect it to be. You will need to lead your puppy to the litter box: Each time as mentioned above Any time that your Pug makes an action that they are about to urinate or eliminate. To do this, you must keep a close eye on your Pug. If your puppy is allowed to roam the home without you, you will find urine and feces all over the house. You can keep an eye on your puppy by: Using the Umbilical Cord Method – With this method you will attach a leash to your puppy‟s harness. Using a collar is not recommended. Why? Because if you are not careful at every moment, you may walk too quickly or turn a corner before your puppy can keep up with you… when a Pug is connected to a dog collar and leash and there is a sudden “jerking”, this can cause the Pug to have a collapsed trachea – a very serious condition in which the cartilage in the dog‟s trachea literally collapses inward causes serious breathing problems and pain. With this method, your puppy will be connected to you with a leash approximately 6 feet long. This allows you to walk around the home while keeping your puppy close enough to notice if they are about to have an “accident” Using the Confinement Method – With this method, you will place your puppy in a playpen, gated off area or crate. A crate is not recommended, as living in a crate all day and only coming out to urinate or eliminate is not much of a fun life for your puppy. Your Pug and you need to spend time together to bond. Placing your puppy in a playpen or in a gated off area of the home allows you to keep checking on your puppy while offering your Pug plenty of room to play and to be 47 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

part of the household – hearing noises, seeing people and being involved in the home environment. To recap, you will take your Pug to the litter box at the designated times and each time you see that your puppy is about to urinate or eliminate. You may need to gently place your Pug in the litter box, so that he or she begins to understand that they are expected to do their business in the box. It is very important to offer your puppy a ton of praise each time they successfully use the litter box. Act as if your Pug just did the most wonderful thing in the world. Praise them; give them a small treat, kiss, cuddle, pat and talk to them in an excited and happy voice.

Outside Training Training your Pug to go outside with you to urinate or eliminate will usually be easier than the litter box method. The most important aspect will be to choose one area for your puppy to use the bathroom. If you bring your puppy to a new spot each time, this will confuse them. Being consistent and always going to the same area will make this much easier for both of you. Note: A dog has a strong urge to “choose just the right spot”. Therefore, you should: Choose an area, but allow your Pug to choose the exact spot by themselves. This can be done by standing in the exact center of your chosen area, having your Pug on a 6 foot leash and allowing your puppy to roam around in that entire diameter.

Be very patient. All dogs are different. Some will only take a minute to choose and then want to run back inside the home. Other dogs will take 5 to 10 minutes to choose the spot to urinate and 15 to 20 minutes to choose the spot to eliminate. To do this, you must keep a close eye on your Pug. If your puppy is allowed to roam the home without you, you will find urine and feces all over the house. You can keep an eye on your puppy by: 48 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Using the Umbilical Cord Method – With this method you will attach a leash to your puppy‟s harness. Using a collar is not recommended. Why? Because if you are not careful at every moment, you may walk too quickly or turn a corner before your puppy can keep up with you… when a Pug is connected to a dog collar and leash and there is a sudden “jerking”, this can cause the Pug to have a collapsed trachea – a very serious condition in which the cartilage in the dog‟s trachea literally collapses inward causes serious breathing problems and pain. With this method, your puppy will be connected to you with a leash approximately 6 feet long. This allows you to walk around the home while keeping your puppy close enough to notice if they are about to have an “accident” Using the Confinement Method – With this method, you will place your puppy in a playpen, gated off area or crate. A crate is not recommended, as living in a crate all day and only coming out to urinate or eliminate is not much of a fun life for your puppy. Your Pug and you need to spend time together to bond. Placing your puppy in a playpen or in a gated off area of the home allows you to keep checking on your puppy while offering your Pug plenty of room to play and to be part of the household – hearing noises, seeing people and being involved in the home environment. To recap, you will take your Pug outside at the designated times and each time you see that your puppy is about to urinate or eliminate. It is very important to offer your puppy tons of praise each time they successfully go to the bathroom in the designated area. Act as if your Pug just did the most wonderful thing in the world. Praise them; give them a small treat, kiss, cuddle, pat and talk to them in an excited and happy voice.

If You Must Leave Your Pug Home Alone – Newspaper or Pee Pad Training Ideally, you will want to spend a couple of months with your new puppy so that you can properly housebreak them. However, there are many owners who must work during the day and must leave their Pug home. It is recommend to stay home at least until your puppy is 12 weeks old, as a Pug is prone to Hypoglycemia (a fast drop in blood sugar which can be fatal if care is not given immediately). When you leave your Pug home, do remember your puppy‟s limits. (A 3 month old can only hold their needs for 3 hours, a 4 month old for 4 hours, etc, up until the age of 1 year with a maximum time of 8 hours).

Knowing this limit, it is unrealistic to assume that if you leave your Pug in a crate for the day, that your puppy will be able to hold its needs if you are gone for 8 hours. The best method to use if you will be gone for an extended time is to gate off an area (this should be a room or a large section of a room) or to place your puppy in a play pen. Your goal will be to have your Pug urinate or eliminate on newspaper or “pee pads”. The area that you choose should have different locations for your puppy: An area with toys An area with water An area with food (if you will not be there to feed your puppy at designated times) An area with newspaper to urinate and/or eliminate Remember, your puppy (unless paper trained by its breeder) will not know that newspaper = their bathroom. When a breeder paper trains a puppy, this is a bit easier, as the puppy copies the behavior of its mother. However, it will be your job to show your Pug that you wish for them to use the newspaper. You can do this by implementing training when you are home. At each designated time and any time your puppy makes a motion of needing to urinate or eliminate, bring your puppy to the newspaper. Each and every time that your Pug does use the paper, give tons of reward. Be sure to act extremely excited. Give great praise; happy excited words, a small treat, hugs, kisses and pats. If your Pug misses the paper, move the feces onto the paper for a small amount of time. Just long enough to put a bit of the scent onto the paper. If your puppy misses the paper when urinating, wipe up the urine with paper towels and place those onto the newspaper for just a bit of time to allow the scent to linger on the paper. Yelling at or punishing your puppy in any way will not help with training. Your Pug will have no idea why you are upset. The only method that works is to offer tons of attention and praise when the pup does go in the correct spot. It is these times, when you offer great praise and reward, that your puppy will begin to learn that eliminating on the newspaper = great attention and praise and that not doing so = no special attention.

After a while, when given enough praise for eliminating on the paper, you will be able to leave your puppy home in a safe environment and they will continue the behavior of using the newspaper. Be sure to put on clean newspaper each time it gets soiled.

The "Puppy Pees" It is normal for some Pugs to urinate when excited. This is most common with puppies who simply become overwhelmed with your hugs, pats & kisses. The puppy will then have excitement urination behavior. Most puppies will grow out of this phase. However, in the meantime, you may find a couple of things helpful: 1. Try to play with your puppy outside. 2. Bring your puppy outside or to their liter box to urinate before playtime. 3. For dogs who are simply over-excited, whether young puppies or older adult dogs, it is best to approach the dog from the side and slowly introduce play time. 4. Puppies, who display this behavior, should not be directly picked up. It is best to kneel beside your puppy, pat them a bit and then gently roll them onto your lap. This eliminates the sudden excitement of being picked up and hugged.

Medical Issues If your dog is having a lot of training accidents, this can point to medical issues, such as a bladder infection. If your Pug is having a lot of accidents, despite proper training, be sure to bring your Pug to the veterinarian to check for any medical issues which may cause your puppy or dog to lose control of their bladder or bowels.

Feces on the Bed Many owners write in, frustrated that their dog eliminates on a family memberâ&#x20AC;&#x;s bed. Many believe that this is some type of behavioral issueâ&#x20AC;Śthat perhaps the dog is purposely soiling the bed. He or she is not. In addition, this is not a marking issue, as a dog marks with urine, not feces. Eliminating on a bed (or sofa, or any other place inside of the home) is either: A medical issue in which the dog has little or no control over holding its bowel movements

A house training issue, in which the dog must be brought outside more often and by the methods explained above.

Crating Crating is a temporary means to limit your dog‟s movement around the home while your dog learns the rules of urinating or eliminating in the appropriate area. Again, crates are temporary. A dog should never live its life in a crate! Putting your Pug in a crate all day/night is cruel and neglectful. As soon as your Pug learns where to “go to the bathroom”, the crate will then only be used for traveling, visits to the vet, etc. If you properly train your dog to use the crate, he'll think of it as his safe place and will be happy to spend time there when needed. A crate is not a magical method in which you simply place your dog inside and they do not go to the bathroom. Your Pug will need to urinate and eliminate whether or not they are inside of a crate. Many people have the wrong idea about purpose a crate serves.

Choosing a Crate Crates may be plastic (often called "flight kennels") or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores. Your dog's crate should be just large enough for him or her to stand up and turn around in. If your Pug is still growing, choose a crate size that will accommodate their adult size. Block off the excess crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.

How to Crate Train Overview Crate training can take several weeks. This will depend on your Pug‟s age, personality, etc. Keep 2 things in mind: The crate should always be associated with something pleasant Training should take place in a series of small steps. Your Pug will most likely become very stressed if you push them into a crate and expect for your dog to “get used to it”. This must be done slow and steady.

Introduction to the Crate

Place the crate in an area of your house where you and your family spends a lot of time, such as the living room. Place a soft baby blanket in the crate. Bring your Pug over to the crate, and talk in a happy tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't hit your Pug and frighten him or her. To persuade your dog to enter the crate, drop some small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If your Pug refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay; don't force your puppy to enter. Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Meal Time in the Crate After introducing your Pug to the crate, begin feeding regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate. If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin this step, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate. If, instead, your dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish only as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious. Each time you feed your Pug, place the dish a little further back in the crate. Do not close the gate for the first few days. Once your dog is comfortably in the crate to eating a meal, you can close the door while he's eating. However, do not lock it shut. The first time you do this; open the door as soon as your Pug finishes their meal. With each successive feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until your Pug is staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating. If your Pug begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving your dog in the crate for a shorter time period. If your Pug does whine or cry in the crate, it's important that you not let them out until they stop. Otherwise, your Pug will learn that the way to get out of the crate is to whine, so they will keep doing it…. Over and over again!

Getting Ready for Longer Times Inside the Crate After your Pug is eating regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them there for short time periods while you're home. Call your Pug over to the crate and give a treat. At this point, it is best to give a command, such as “Crate”. Encourage your Pug by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. After your dog enters the crate, offer great praise, give your Pug the yummy dog treat, and close the door. Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten

minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a short time, and then let your Pug out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day. Each time that you do this, slowly increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of time you're out of your Pug‟s sight. Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30 minutes with you out of sight the majority of the time, you can begin leaving your Pug crated when you're gone for short time periods and/or letting your Pug sleep there at night.

Crating Your Dog When They are Home Alone After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short periods when you leave the house. Put your Pug in the crate using your regular command and a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. You'll want to vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine you put your dog in the crate. Although your Pug shouldn't be crated for a long time before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes before leaving. When you do leave, try very hard to not make this an emotional event. If you give 100 hugs and kisses and act as if you are never going to see your Pug again…your dog will pick up on that and believe it! If you act calm and casual, your Pug will be calm and relaxed also. Simply praise your Pug briefly, give a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing any anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate your Pug for short periods from time to time when you're home so your dog doesn't associate crating with being left alone.

Crating Your Pug at Night Put your Pug in the crate using your regular command and a treat. In the beginning, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside.

Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so that they don't associate the crate with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog, even sleep time, is an opportunity to strengthen the bond between you and your Pug.

Potential Problems Too Much Time in the Crate. A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated. For example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, they are spending too much time in too small a space. You will want to have your Pug in a large playpen or gated off room during the day and then crated at night…or in a doggie bed at night and crated during the day. Remember that puppies under 6 months of age shouldn't stay in a crate for more than 4 hours at a time. A puppy that young cannot control their bladders and bowels for longer periods. Whining. If your Pug whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they are whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, your Pug may be trying to tell you that they must urinate or eliminate. Once taking your Pug outside to “go to the bathroom”, if the whining continues the best response is to ignore the noises...they will stop eventually. Don't give in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud = getting attention and being let out of the crate. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again. Separation Anxiety. Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a professional animal-behavior specialist for help.

Housetraining with a Crate While following the above instructions to allow your Pug to become used to their crate and feel comfortable inside of it, an owner must follow the instructions for bringing their dog outside to urinate and eliminate.

Some people believe that a puppy or dog will not urinate or eliminate inside of a crate…”Dogs don’t do that in the area that they live in”… this is false. Your puppy and even your adult dogs can only hold their needs for a certain amount of time. If not taken out of the crate and shown were to go to the bathroom, they will most certainly do so inside of the crate. Your Pug puppy should always be taken to urinate: When waking up Immediately after being let out of the crate Right before bedtime Several times throughout the day based on their age. A 2 month old can only hold on for 2 hours maximum, a 3 month old can only hold on for 3 hours maximum, and so on. The longest a Pug can stay in a crate without urinating or eliminating is 8 hours (and that is if you are lucky). Any time your puppy makes a motion that they are about to urinate Your Pug puppy should always be taken to eliminate: 15 to 20 minutes after eating If you will not be home to allow your puppy or dog out of the crate when it is time to go to the bathroom, do expect urine and feces inside of the crate. Your Pug cannot perform miracles.

The Issues with Crates You may wish to obtain a crate with a 2 level bottom: 1 level for the dog to sit upon and a lower level in which the urine and feces drops below. This can present several issues, however. These types of crates have wire as the level which the dog sits upon. This wire crated area is not healthy for the Pug‟s paws. With some dogs, if left inside a wire grated crate for extended times, you can clearly see the damage done to their paws, it is quite sad. Grated wire levels with the wires spaced very close together will be better for the Pug‟s paws, however then you are left with the problem of the feces not dropping down. In addition, even with the feces and urine dropping down, your Pug will be locked inside a small area for quite a while amidst the odor…not the greatest solution. In some cases, a dog will eat its own feces in the crate. If this happens, you can obtain a larger crate, made for large breed dogs, in which the space between the “sitting” level and bottom level are distanced greater apart. In this way, your Pug would not be able to reach the feces. For these reasons, we do recommend using the playpen or gated off area method.

Chapter 14: House Training an Older/ Senior Pug Overview

You may have gotten an adult Pug for many reasons and your adult may have come from a breeder, rescue or other. In some cases, this adult Pug will already be house trained. In other cases, the dog may need to be reminded…or may need to learn from the beginning. If your adult is not house trained, ignore the expression that “you can’t teach old dogs new tricks”…because of course you can! Many adult dogs adopted from animal shelters may not have gotten enough opportunities to eliminate outside, and as a result, they may have soiled their kennel areas. This tends to weaken their housetraining habits. In addition, scents and odors from other pets in the new home may stimulate some initial urine marking. Remember that you and your new adult Pug need some time to learn each other's signals and routines. Even if your Pug was housetrained in their previous home, if you don't recognize his "bathroom" signal, you might miss his request to go out, causing him to eliminate indoors. Therefore, for the first few weeks after you bring your adult Pug home, you should assume your new dog isn't housetrained and start from scratch. If your Pug was housetrained in his previous home, the re-training process should progress quickly. The process will be much smoother if you take steps to prevent accidents and remind your Pug where they are supposed to eliminate.

Establish a Routine Take your adult Pug out at the same times every day. For example, first thing in the morning when he wakes up, when you arrive home from work, and before you go to bed. Praise your dog greatly every time they eliminate outdoors. You can even give a small doggie treat. You must praise your Pug and give them a treat immediately after they have finished and not wait until after they come back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way your dog will know that's what you want him to do. Adult dogs need just as much praise as young puppies.

Choose a location not too far from the door to be the bathroom spot. An adult Pug may not be as excited to romp far from home. Always take your dog, on leash, directly to the bathroom spot. Take your Pug for a walk or play with him only after they have eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house leave the soiled rags or paper towels in the bathroom spot outside for a little while. The smell will help your dog recognize the area as the place where they are supposed to eliminate. While your dog is eliminating, use a word or phrase like "go potty," for example, that you can eventually use before your Pug eliminates to remind them of what they are supposed to be doing. Feeding your dog on a set schedule, once or twice a day will help make his elimination more regular.

Supervision Don't give your Pug an opportunity to have an accident in the house. Your Pug should be watched at all times when indoors during the training period. You can tether your Pug to you with a six-foot leash (the umbilical cord method), or use baby gates, to keep your dog in the room where you are. Watch for signs that your Pug needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. If you see these signs, immediately take your dog outside, on a leash, to his bathroom spot. If your Pug eliminates, don‟t forget the great praise you must give.

When You Are Not Able to Watch Your Pug During the house training phase with an adult Pug, there will be times when you cannot watch your dog every moment. When you must go out to run errands, etc, your dog should be confined to an area such as a gated off room. Be sure to take your Pug outside to urinate or eliminate right before you are to leave. While it is rare for a senior dog to have the need for house training, if this is the case, do keep in mind that a senior dog may not be able to hold its needs for the 8 hours that an adult dog can. The area should be big enough for your Pug to be comfortable. This could be a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates or a baby play pen. You may want to crate train your dog and use the crate to confine him, as described in the puppy House Training chapter. When your Pug has spent several hours in confinement, when you do let your dog out, take them directly to their bathroom spot and praise them when they eliminate. When leaving your Pug alone for the entire day (if you must leave for work, etc.) you will not want to leave your Pug in a crate. The crate should be a temporary method of confining your dog when you must…such as when visitors come over

and you need to have your Pug safe and out of the way of foot traffic, etc. A dog left in a crate the entire day is not a happy dog. You can implement house training when you are home, and then when you are not, it is suggested to keep your Pug in a playpen or gated off room. With the adult Pug able to hold its needs for 8 hours, all should be fine. If you will be gone longer than 8 hours, it is suggested to find a means to allow your Pug a bathroom break. You may be able to: Leave work during lunch time to go home and allow your Pug outside Hire a trusted neighbor, etc. to take your Pug for a walk Ask a friend or family member to check on your Pug at least once while you are gone and to bring them outside.

Accidents Adult dogs, especially senior dogs, will be prone to accidents. The older a dog becomes, you should expect this more. If you catch your Pug in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him like clapping loudly (don't scare him). Immediately take your Pug to their bathroom spot, give lots of praise, and give a treat if they finish eliminating there. Don't punish your dog for eliminating in the house. Do nothing but clean it up. Rubbing your dog's nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding, or any other type of punishment, will only make your dog afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Dogs do not understand punishment after something happens, even if it's only seconds later. Punishment will do more harm than good. Cleaning the soiled area is very important because dogs are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.

Chapter 17: Marking Issues (Urinating inside the home to mark territory) Overview

A Pug of any age may "mark" this is not a housebreaking issue, it is a behavioral issue. The dog is doing this, because he or she is marking their territory, not because they do not know where to eliminate or they do not understand the rules of housebreaking. Marking is not a method of emptying the bladder...it is a process of spraying out a bit of urine to mark territory. This is more common in households that have more than 1 dog. You will know that this is territorial marking behavior if: The dog only urinates a little bit; they will not release their whole bladder...they will urinate just enough to mark the spot The dog keeps urinating in the same spot The dog is house trained and does not eliminate feces in the home, but only urinates inside. This is more common if a female is not spayed or a male is not neutered. However, even if the dog is spayed or neutered...if there is another dog in the home who is not, this can prompt this behavior.

How to Help You will want to: Clean the area, but not with a strong smelling cleaner. This can trigger your dog to try and mark again to cover that scent. Try to not allow your Pug to see other dogs walking near the home - just seeing another dog may trigger your dog to mark. Try to make the area in which your dog is marking, a play area. Play with your dog there, give a treat, have them lie down and pat their tummy. Spay or neuter all pets. Dogs who are spayed or neutered are less likely to do this. Even if your Pug is spayed/neutered , another pet who is not can trigger this behavior. As soon as you see your Pug get into position to do this, make a loud noise to distract your dog and then immediately bring them to their bathroom area. Give great rewards if they urinate there.

Marking Behavior with More Than 1 Dog Your Pug who is marking is most likely doing so, because he or she feels the need to "claim" the house. Why? Because all dogs, of any dog breed, need to know the "order of the pack". Long ago, dogs ran in packs and there was always a leader. Now, domesticated dogs still need to know: Who is in the pack? Who is the leader, also called the "Alpha dog"? If their human family member is the top leader, who is the leader among the dogs? By feeding your dogs, teachings them commands, grooming them, taking them for walks and all of the care that you give, you have already shown them that in the pack, it is you who is the top leader. However, in a home with more than one animal, your dog who is marking, needs to know who is the leader in the sub-group of the animals. Usually, dogs will try to figure this out among themselves. However, doing so can be very stressful for all dogs involved. This can lead to behavioral problems, such as this one. You can help by establishing which dog is the Alpha Dog. It is usually the older dog. However, you can take notice when the dogs are playing. Is one of them more outgoing? Is one dog more "pushy" when it comes to choosing toys? Which dog runs to their food first? Noticing this, will help you know who is trying harder to be the Alpha Dog. Once you know, you can then help both dogs. Remember that the dog who is not the Alpha Dog is just as important and loved as the other dog. Not being the Alpha Dog is not a negative thing. Both dogs will be less stressed and happy, knowing their place in the "pack". When it is time to feed your dogs dinner, give the Alpha Dog their food first. When it is time to take the dogs outside for a walk, put the leash on the Alpha Dog first. These small gestures help the dogs feel secure that you, the main leader, are showing them that you understand the "pack".

To recap: Once the dogs stop competing, your dog should stop marking. Have all pets spayed or neutered Bring your Pug outside every time you see that they are about to mark and give tons of reward if they do urine outside Clean any marked areas with a non-scented or lightly scented cleaner 61 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Chapter 18: Nutritional Needs Overview of Nutritional Needs

What are the nutritional needs of a Pug? A Pug needs to have: Amino acids from protein Fatty acids Carbohydrates Vitamins Minerals Water Protein and Amino Acids - Dietary protein contains 10 amino acids that a dog cannot make on its own. They provide the building blocks for many important biologically active compounds and proteins for the Pug. Also, they give the carbon chains needed to make glucose for the dog's energy. High-quality proteins have a good balance of all of the essential amino acids. Studies show that dogs can sense when their dog food lacks a single amino acid and will usually avoid eating it. A Pug should be feed a high quality dog food that contains the 10 essential amino acids. Fatty Acids - Dietary fats, mainly derived from animal fats and the seed oils of various plants, provide the most concentrated source of energy in a dog's diet. Fatty acids play a role in cell structure and function. Essential fatty acids are needed to keep your dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s skin and coat healthy. Puppies fed ultralow-fat diets develop dry, coarse hair and skin lesions that become increasingly vulnerable to infections. Omega 3 and Omega 6 are most crucial. Carbohydrates - Dogs need a certain amount of energy to sustain the normal activities of their daily lives. Growth, pregnancy, lactation, and exercise all increase these normal energy requirements. This energy comes from 3 major dietary components: carbohydrates, protein, and fats. Vitamins & Minerals- These are extremely important.

K actives bone proteins B1 and Pantothenic Acid helps with metabolism Riboflavin, Niacin and B12 - helps with enzyme function B6 helps with glucose generation, red blood cell function, nervous system function, immune response, hormone regulation and gene activation Folic acid helps with protein synthesis Choline is a Phospholipid cell membrane component Water - How much water does a Pug need? As much as they want ! Fresh, clean water should be available at all times.

Puppies Under 4 Months Old Puppies under 4 months old need additional calcium and Vitamin D each day. You can offer Calcium by giving a liquid calcium supplement via syringe. Vitamin D is easily given by adding 1 ml of Cod Liver Oil to the puppyâ&#x20AC;&#x;s food 2 times per week.

Chapter 19: All Puppy and Dog Food Elements Free Feeding or Scheduled Feeding

Many owners do not know if they should free feed or schedule feed. Free feeding is the method of leaving out dog food all day long and allowing the Pug to eat whenever they wish. Scheduled feeding is the method of choosing certain times through the day to place down the dog food. When a Pug is under 3 months old or under the weight of 2 pounds, it is recommended to free feed. However, studies show that scheduled feedings = a more well behaved Pug. When a dog has a daily schedule, including meal times, this creates a structured environment. Not only does the Pug feel safe and secure, your dog will also clearly know that you are the “Alpha Dog” in the home (the leader of the home) and this makes a Pug behave better and listen to commands on cue. When you do scheduled feedings, it is very important to choose times and then stay with those times. Your Pug will certainly remember when it is dinner time and an owner must remember also. If you are very busy and seem to keep forgetting, even if you are 10 minutes late, it may help to set a timer to ring that will remind you that your Pug is expecting their food.

What to Feed Your Pug You will have a choice between: Manufactured dog food Home cooked dog food A Pug does not need a good dog food; they need excellent, highly healthy meals. We highly suggest home cooking for your Pug. If you do choose to offer manufactured dog food, we then would recommend Eukanuba or Purina (Purina once had a no-so-great name but in recent years has greatly cut down on their fillers)

If just obtaining a new 8 to 12 week old puppy, you should feed your Pug the same food that they have been eating. A sudden change in diet can cause many serious health issues. If you wish to change over to a different brand of dog food or to homemade food (which we recommend), you can slowly make a change over the course of 4 to 5 weeks. You may do so the following way: Week 1 and 2: ½ old food and ½ new food, mixed together Week 3: 1/4 old food and 3/4new food, mixed together Week 4: 7/8 old food and 1/8 new food, mixed together Week 5: Fully eating new food

Why We Suggest Home Cooking As you know, a Pug is a very small and fragile dog; his digestive system is small and sensitive as well. Manufactured dog food, no matter how “high quality” has fillers. The difference between high or low quality dog food is the amount of filler that are put into it. Fillers are just what they sound like. They contain zero nutritional value and they “plump out” the food and they fill up your little Pug‟s stomach. While it will appear that your Pug is full after eating, ½ to ¾ of what they ate was not actual food (depending on the brand of dog food that you use). These fillers are not absorbed into the Pug‟s body, since they are basically “nothing”. The body knows that they have nothing of value, so they quickly pass through and come out the other end. Owners are misled to believe that their dog ate enough and all of it was healthy, when in fact those fillers are just a waste. Since the Pug did not receive a full, healthy meal, this can lead the dog to eat grass or feces, the body‟s instinct to ingest more food and nutrients that it is craving. In addition, no matter which manufactured food a dog is fed, it will contain additives, preservatives and coloring. We do not recommend having that in your Pug‟s diet. For these reasons, we highly recommend feeding home cooked food. Even for those who are not great cooks, it is very easy. Most of the ingredients are ones that you would normally purchase. You can usually save money by home cooking, as well. For example, a family usually buys hamburger, chicken and vegetables…ingredients in many healthy recipes.

Home Cooking VS Manufactured Dog Food Recommended By Vets? - Did you know that any manufactured dog food can legally have the label of "Recommended by Veterinarians" if only 1 vet recommends it? That is 1 vet out of millions. Many veterinarians have their own brand of “healthy dog food”, which puts millions of dollars into veterinarian‟s pockets each year. Fillers - The main difference between high quality and low quality manufactured dog food is the amount of fillers. Fillers are basically empty, useless ingredients which "pump" up the actual food itself and cause your Pug to feel full...when in fact they are ingesting worthless elements which contain zero nutrients! These pass right through your Pug's body and come out via the other end. Behavioral Issues - The behavioral issues of a Pug eating grass and/or eating feces can be directly connected to the dog's diet. As the Pug is ingesting those fillers found in manufactured food, your dog will feel full, but his or her body will be craving nutrients that the fillers did not contain. Allergies - Allergies to dog food is one of the most common allergies that affect small breed dogs as the Pug. This can cause upset stomachs, vomiting, diarrhea, and external symptoms such as dry skin and a dull coat. Many cases can be severe. Home cooking is vital in giving your dog enough nutrients, while being able to test what ingredient he or she is allergic to. Wheat - For those who already know that a Pug is allergic to wheat (one of the most common food elements), you can make delicious wheat-free home cooked meals for your Pug. Teething - Why watch your Pug suffer through the teething phase, when you can make tasty homemade treats that will greatly help with discomfort. Marketing Schemes - Puppy food, adult food, senior food, pregnancy food...When you home cook for your Pug, you do not need to worry about the age of your dog. Excellent home cooking recipes will fit the needs for any Pug of any age. Raw Food Diets - Having originated from wild animals, our fluffy little friends still have the instinct to eat raw meat. For those who wish to see if their Pug enjoys a raw food diet, home cooking is the way to go. Tummy Trouble Times - There will be times when your Pug is feeling down, perhaps recovering from a treatment or just having an "off day" and dealing with an upset tummy. For those times, home cooking can provide an easy way to help your Pug.

Trust - Your dog trusts you to feed them. They stand there looking so cute, practically drooling while you prepare their dinner. They are loyal to you and eat what you place down. Do you want to feed your Pug fillers? Or do you want to feed them home cooked food specifically for the Pug and know that the only elements your dog is ingesting are healthy, nutritious and ingredients that your dog's body actually needs.

How to Home Cook For Your Pug It will be vital to add a high quality dog food supplement, given once per day ( or as recommended on the particular brand you choose to use). This is done with home cooking or when feeding manufactured dog food. Your end result should be a mix of roughly 40% meat to 30% vegetables to 30% starch/ carbs. Below are the home cooking basics for your Pug. This shows you the ingredients you can choose from and what amount to use in the overall meal. For the 40% meat/ fish: Deboned, boiled white chicken meat, liver, hamburger or tuna. For the 30 % vegetables, a mixture of at least 2 of the following: Butternut squash Cut up carrots Beets Spinach Zucchini Cauliflower For the 30% starch: Oatmeal Plain white or brown rice Plain potatoes Sweet potatoes Added extras: Chard Taro Lima beans It is suggested to first grind up the vegetables in a food processor before cooking them.

All food should be mixed very well and served warm. When you refrigerate extras, be sure to put the food in good Tupperware type containers. There is only 1 home cooking recipes book that we recommend: Dr. Sara’s Healthy Home Cooking for Pugs. This is offered exclusively on PetPugDog, you may click here to read more about this

If you do wish to offer manufactured dog food, below is advice you will need:

Dry or Wet? If you use manufactured dog food, it is suggested to feed your Pug mostly dry dog food with a bit of wet dog food mixed into the menu. Eating only wet dog food may affect bowel movements. In addition, dry food will be better for your dog‟s teeth.

Special Times for Special Dog Food Diets If you are using manufactured dog food, you will need to make some changes at certain times. Pregnant dogs: See our Pregnancy Chapter Inactive Dogs: If your dog is inactive due to an injury, health issue, etc, you will want to make sure that your dog's diet: Is a reduced fat dog food Has vitamin rich fish oils

Organic Food? Organic dog food is based on organic grains and ground free organic chicken meat. It contains whole, raw vegetables and fruits. These fruits and vegetables consist of health promoting nutrients, and antioxidants. A true organic dog food will contain at least 95% of certified organic ingredients.

Salt? Sea salt is a common ingredient found in natural foods, containing essential nutrients such as chloride and sodium. Serious kidney and heart problems may occur from a diet that does not contain any sodium. Feeding a chloride deficient food to your pet may lead to nervous system problems. In general natural dog foods contain natural ingredients that include rice protein, brown rice, oats, barley, whole wheat, butter, quinoa, natural flavors.

How Much to Feed Your Pug Until a puppy is 3 months old and at least 2 pounds, they should be free fed (food is kept out at all times so that they may eat whenever they wish) After 3 months old and at least 2 pounds: While some say that a dog will eat endlessly until a human stops them, some Pugs will be very picky eaters and you want to make sure that while your dog does not eat too much, they are also eating enough. The amount of dog food and the feeding times will vary depending on the age of your dog and activity level. A good rule of thumb is that you should only leave out the dog food for thirty minutes. If your dog doesn‟t eat it in that time, pick it up and put it away. While the exact quantity may have to be adjusted according to specific needs, there are certain guidelines for Pugs and feeding: Growing puppies need more food than adults. Each pup is different, however on average: A 3 lb. puppy needs about1 cup of food per day A 5 lb. puppy needs about 1- 1/4 cups per day A 6 lb. puppy needs about 1 ¾ cups per day A puppy will eat more as he or she is in their growing stage and then eat less once they settle into their normal adult weight. This is distributed throughout 3 to 4 meals from 2 months old up to the age of 6 months. A Pug puppy's stomach is very small so meals must be very small as well. Since every dog is very different based on: Size Activity Metabolism The best way to know how much to feed your puppy or dog is to allow them to eat for 15-20 minutes at each of the designated times. What they have not ate in that amount of time, they do not need. At 6 months old a Pug can work down from 4 meals to 3 meals or from 3 meals to 2 meals.

2 years old Pugs can now be eating adult dog food and will eat a bit less. Adult dogs can usually eat just one meal per day. Some owners do choose to feed 2 meals: this does not mean double the food! This means the food, divided into 2 smaller meals. Do keep in mind that if you feed your Pug a breakfast in the morning, he or she will need to eliminate soon afterward. This is one of the reasons that feeding 1 larger dinner time meal is usually done.

Snacks can be given at any age. Dog treats and chews should be reserved for rewarding good behavior. In this way, training will be easier. If a dog is given snacks and chews all the time, they will lose important meaning when you are attempting to train your Pug.

Supplements A pet supplement is a product that is intended to complement the diet and help support and maintain a normal biological function. Products range from multivitamins for overall health to targeted formulas that may alleviate joint problems or canine cognitive dysfunction. Giving your Pug 1 full & complete dog food supplement should be done each day. This will be whether you home cook or give manufactured dog food.

Picky Eaters If you find that your Pug is a picky or finicky eater, reinforcement training may be implemented. It is important to not give in to begging behavior. Your Pug may simply not like the taste of the dog food that is being offered. If feeding a manufactured dog food (not recommended) , you can try switching to a new brand; this is best done in small steps. This is especially important with young puppies, as a fast switch to a new food can cause health issues. Try blending in a bit more each week until you make the final switch. Adding a bit of plain chicken broth can also help make their meal more appealing. If you are home cooking, you will have tons of variety to offer your Pug. Your Pug may also be reluctant to eat if the size of the bowl is not in correct proportion to their little bodies. Since the Pug is so small, sometimes if the dog bowl is too deep, the dog can bump their forehead on the edge of the bowl. A dog may avoid eating or may carry the food to a different area and eat it there. Be sure to have a bowl that is shallow; in fact you may opt for a raised plate for the dog food and a shallow water dish.

Odd Eating Behavior – Hiding Food or Bringing Food to a New Spot All dog breeds can be picky eaters, however toy dogs seem to get a reputation for it. It is not uncommon for a Pug to test you when it comes time for dinner. Pugs are so lovable and they also can be a bit stubborn or want to just see how much they can get away with. Your Pug will be as picky with food as you allow them to be. A dog may hide or run away with food because: If the dog was the runt of the litter (the smallest puppy) this could have reinforced this type of behavior. The smallest dogs are almost always pushed aside. Without someone keeping a very close eye, the runts of litter can die from starvation or dehydration. A puppy who had to fight for food may have an urge to hide and run with their food to “protect” it.

Rescue dogs are also known for this behavior, as they had gotten used to always being hungry and when given food, they also feel that they need to protect it.

Dogs who do not feel secure that their food is safe will move it to another room, one where they feel that their food is protected. This can happen if the kitchen is a very noisy room, if there are other dogs in the home and the Pug feels as if they need to compete for food or if people sit or walk too close to where the dog food dish is.

How to Help Be sure to offer a nice quiet area for your Pug to eat. This should be an area with no one walking by, without loud noises and without people talking to your Pug or trying to pat or play with your dog while they eat. This will help make your Pug feel that their eating area is indeed a place where their food is safe. When your Pug takes any food out of the dish, immediately take the food and put it back into the dish or that plate. Get ready for your dog to test you; they may try to move it 10 times before giving in to your request. It will be worth it! While this can seem like a game, it is not. Keeping a very close eye on your dog and not allowing your Pug to eat outside of the designated area will show your dog that if they want their tummy full, they must eat where you ask them to.

Never give in and always stay consistent. Also, think about snacks. Do you give your dog treats in other areas of the home? In order for this training to work, the dog must learn where they are allowed to eat. If your Pug has this behavior of taking their food to a new area, then even small dog treats should only be given in the spot you choose.

Begging for Food Many dogs will beg for human food. If you are home cooking for your Pug do be aware that this is not the same as giving your Pug human food! Home cooking for your Pug will involve following recipes exactly and your Pug will not be eating any spices, additives or many of the foods that you eat. For example, home cooking does not mean that a Pug will eat spicy chicken wings, cole slaw and cheesy noodles with a hot fudge sundae for dessert. If an owner gives in just one time and gives their dog food from their plate…, this can cause a dog to constantly beg. After you prepare your dog‟s food and place it in their special dog food dish, your Pug may then look at you as if they are going to just die if you don't give up a piece of your hamburger. Although extremely tempting and although you will have to use all the willpower and go against all natural human instinct to make your dog happy: If you do not want a dog who begs, do not feed your dog food from your table. This will cause a habit of begging that is very hard to stop Human bodies have adjusted to the additives, color preservatives, high levels of sodium and other ingredients in human food. Even so, millions of people die from heart disease, diabetes and other illness that can be linked to bad eating habits. Imagine what this food can do to your Pug. Therefore, do not give in to begging. If you ignore your dog‟s begging, they will eventually give up. If you give in, your dog will learn that with enough begging, they will get that piece of your hamburger. Stopping begging behavior can cause your Pug to have overall better behavior. Why? Because by being firm in the “food department” you are showing your Pug that you are the Alpha Dog (the leader of the home). Each time you do not give in and show your Pug that you make the rules, your Pug will have confirmation that you are their loving leader and this makes a Pug feel secure and safe.

Chapter 20: Overweight Pugs Overview

Weight is a concern for many dog owners. Rapid weight gain is not usually an issue for puppies. A growing puppy can gain weight quickly and then this can even out as the dog's bone structure grows. There is much talk regarding thyroid disease or diabetes causing weight gain in a dog, but this is rarely seen in a puppy. These are health issues that may develop as a Pug dog grows older. Once your Pug reaches 2 years old, you will want to make sure that your dog is holding a steady weight to maintain optimal health.

The Effects of a Dog Being Overweight Just as with humans, dogs will suffer the consequences of being overweight. This can cause many canine health issues including: Stress on the joints of the dog Limited mobility for the dog to exercise/ interact with family Canine Diabetes Strain on the dog's heartâ&#x20AC;Śand more

Medical or Eating Issue? All adult dogs that appear overweight must be checked out by a veterinarian to first rule out a medical issue that may be affecting the dog. However, most pet owners swear that their pet "hardly eats" and that any weight gain must have a medical reason. Contrary to these beliefs, currently 32% of pets are overweight and of that number only 6% have true medical issues that are causing this.

Elements of Eating Too Much Just as with humans, when a dog takes in more calories that is needed and does not burn off those calories through exercise, the result will be a weight gain for the dog. While most owners have good intentions and honestly do not

believe that their dog is eating too much, there are 4 main ways that a dog's calorie intake can be increased: Snacking - Many dogs are given little treats throughout the day, these small calories snacks can add up quickly. While giving treats is usually needed to train your dog, do be aware of giving too many. Begging - It is hard to resist those puppy eyes! As discussed earlier, a dog will beg for food unless you train them that you will not give in. If you give in once, your dog may not leave you alone until they get a bit of your dinner. Throwing down those little pieces of cheeseburgers or steak can add up, especially with a Pug. The Finicky Eater â&#x20AC;&#x201C; As discussed earlier, a dog that refuses to eat dog food can be quite a challenge. An owner may then feed the dog human food on a regular basis - a huge no-no unless you are specifically cooking homemade food for your Pug. Performance Eating - Dogs are sometimes given treats every time that they behave. While this is helpful when first training your Pug to listen to commands, once they understand those commands, praise and attention should be enough to keep them listening to you.

Knowing if Your Pug is Overweight The easiest way is to access your dog's rib cage. This will tell you a lot. You will want to look at the ribs and touch the bones. Looking - Stand above your Pug. This can be done more easily when your Pug is wet after a bath and their fur is not getting in the way. Does the stomach area on the dog curve in? Is there a distinction between the upper torso and the lower torso of the dog? If not, there is most likely too much fat there. Touching -- Try to gently touch the rib bones on your Pug. Dogs that are underweight will have bones that are right against the skin and protruding in some places. Pugs that are overweight will have a thick shielding of fat between the bones and you; if you find it very difficult to even locate your pet's rib bones; this is a sign of obesity.

How Many Calories a Pug Needs There is a mathematical equation that you can perform to determine how many calories your Pug should be eating: Metric System: Weight in kilograms x 30 + 70 = calories needed per day. For example: 2.26 kg x 30 = 67.8 + 70 = 137.8 calories needed per day Decimal System: Weight in pounds divided by 2.2 x 30 + 70 = calories needed. For example: 20 pounds divided by 2.2 = 9.09 x 30 = 272.70 + 70 = 342.70 (round off to 343) calories needed per day.

Helping Your Pug Lose Weight You may switch to a low calorie dog food formulated for dogs who need to lose weight. Also, exercising a bit more each day will, over time, help with weight loss. You do not want to give your Pug a sudden surge of increased exercise; this can be too overwhelming to an overweight Pug. Adding 10 minutes to our dog's daily walk is suggested.

Give it Time A dog may whine when not given as many treats and snacks as usual. Your Pug also will need time to become accustomed to exercising more if you will be implementing an exercise routine. Make sure to give your dog plenty of time to adjust to these changes; a slow weight loss is so much healthier than a fast one. As long as you are working toward a healthy goal for your Pug, there is no reason to rush to get there. Remember, the growing Pug puppy will have many spurt of weight gain and that is perfectly normal (and needed!). If your Pug is under 2 years old, there is no reason to be concerned about weight; your dog is in the growing stages and the final adult weight will be set at the end of the first 2 years.

Chapter 21: Teething Issues The Age a Pug Puppy Losing Its Baby Teeth

At about the age of 3 to 4 months, Pug puppies will begin to lose their ''baby teeth'' and their permanent, adult canine teeth begin to grow in. Puppies almost always lose their teeth in a specific order: First the smaller front teeth come out, then the premolars, molars and finally the canine teeth come out. Often, the dog's teeth will fall out while eating or playing, so they are often swallowed and you may not notice that it has happened. If at the age of 6 months, if your Pug puppy is still holding onto their puppy teeth, you should have a veterinarian perform a dental checkup. In rare cases, an adult dog tooth will come in slanted and may affect the other teeth. The loss of puppy teeth and the growth of adult teeth normally happen in this order: 4 Months old - the incisors begin to grow in 5 months old - the canine teeth begin to grow in 6 months old - the molars begin to grow in By 8 months old, a Pug puppy should have all teeth ascended and stop teething. Do keep in mind that some puppies are late bloomers and teething may last a bit longer.

When an Adult Tooth Grows in Before a Puppy Tooth Falls Out Sometimes, an adult tooth will begin to drop down while the puppy tooth is still in place. A puppy may then have double row of teeth. This can happen with 1 tooth or with several.

With the puppy tooth in the way, the adult tooth may grow in crooked. This can cause: Discomfort Cuts to the inside of the puppy‟s mouth Eating and chewing problems Therefore, if this situation happens, you will want the veterinarian to take a look at your puppy‟s teeth. Most likely, the puppy tooth can be pulled out without sedation. Doing so, will allow the adult tooth to grow in properly.

How to Help Your Pug with Teething Discomfort When a puppy is teething, they have a strong, uncontrollable urge to chew on anything and everything. This is one reason why an owner must puppy-proof the home, to keep any dangerous items away from the reach of the Pug puppy, such as electrical cords. Your puppy will not understand the difference between chewing on your favorite shoes and chewing on a teething toy. All the puppy knows is that chewing makes them feel better and helps to relieve the discomfort that their teeth are causing. There are several things that you can do to get through this phase without your puppy chewing up the house and actually helping your puppy: 1. Teething toys. This is a must. A teething toy is much different than a regular dog toy. A teething toy is one which has 2 main elements: a. It is shapes with soft projections coming out of it. These smaller parts of the toy are so helpful to a teething puppy. They will work these parts into the small areas of their gums to “hit just the right spot”. b. It is designed to be frozen. When teething, having a cold toy to chew on offers a lot of relief. Many teething toys actually hold water. When you freeze them, a puppy will chew on them for hours as the frozen ice turns into a cold slush. After an hour or so, you can offer another frozen toy that is waiting in your freezer.

2. Ice cubes. This will not only entertain you, but will help make your Pug puppy feel better. Most puppies find it amazingly fun to chase an ice cube around on a slippery floor, such as one made of linoleum or hardwood. The ice cube‟s cold temperature will offer relief to the puppy‟s gums.

Stopping the Destruction of Your Home

Since a teething Pug is looking for 1 thing: Something to make the pain go away, they will chew on anything that is readily available. For this reason: All shoes, pocket books, clothes, etc should be put out of reach during this 3 month phase. If it is not on the floor, your puppy can‟t chew on it. Teething toys should be offered and available at all times. One should be with the puppy and at least 2 in the freezer, ready to be switched out once the current toy loses its coldness. If your puppy needs to be left home alone during the day for a certain amount of time, you can do a couple of things to help: o Obtain a small plastic cooler. The type that one may use to bring lunch to work. Be sure that there are no small pieces that the puppy can chew off. Leave the cooler in the puppy‟s area with the lid completely off. Place 4 to 5 frozen teething toys inside. The insulation of the bottom and sides of the cooler, along with the coldness of the frozen toys will keep those toys cold for many hours. o Be sure to confine your puppy to a gated off area or place the puppy inside a playpen; where the environment is safe and there is nothing dangerous that the puppy can chew on except for their teething toys. Whenever you see that your puppy is chewing on something other than their teething toys: Make a loud noise, clap your hands or call out their name loud enough to get their attention. Hand a teething toy to your puppy in exchange for the object that they are chewing on. When your Pug puppy does begin to chew on their teething toy, be sure to give them praise – happy excited words and pats to show the puppy that they are chewing on something appropriate.

Chapter 22: Shedding

Pugs do shed hair from a moderate to a major amount.

It is said that fawn Pugs shed more than black Pugs. However, it really all depends on the dog. Fawn Pugs have a double coat and some black Pugs have a single coat. Their short coarse hairs come off on your hands when you pat them, and sometimes stick stubbornly to your clothing, upholstery, and carpeting. Pug hair is coarse and so can cause a problem with removal but if a Pug is groomed regularly shedding can be managed. Providing a quality food, vitamin supplements with Omega Fatty Acids, Flax Seed or Salmon Oil in addition to regular brushing, usually helps to keep shedding to a minimum. If your Pug shed to a degree that seems excessive with thinning or bald areas, do be sure to read our Fur Issues Chapter. Once any medical conditions are ruled out, there are some things that you can do to help control shedding: Cover your furniture and car seats. Upholstery is a magnet for pet hair, and removing pet hair from furniture or car seats can be a tiresome task. If you allow Pug on your furniture or bed, you would be wise to invest in a few furniture throws. Throws will keep your furniture looking (and smelling) better, and make your home more inviting to guests. Car seat covers are also an excellent investment and are highly recommended. Remove hair from upholstery and your Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bed as soon as possible. Hair that is newly shed is easier to remove before it works its way into upholstery fabric. A Tape Roller is one of the best tools for removing hair. Do keep in mind that proper grooming should control any shedding; therefore regular shedding will not be an issue.

Chapter 23: Baths The Age to Begin Baths

The puppy‟s mother usually stops cleaning the pup at about 3 weeks. However, in some cases the mother Pug will clean the puppy until the pup is completely weaned. In any case, as soon as the puppy‟s mother stops cleaning a puppy, it is then that the breeder/owner should begin giving baths. Before the age of 8 weeks, you will want to use a very soft washcloth with warm water. You would gently wipe the puppy. This hands-on care is a very important element for the first steps of socialization for the pup...to help him or her become used to people and touch. If you have just brought a Pug puppy into your home, that puppy will normally be at least 8 weeks old. At this age, you may begin giving regular baths.

How to Give Baths A bath should be given: Every 3 weeks Any time that your Pug has gotten very dirty, for example if the dog runs through a muddy puddle, etc. Giving your Pug too many baths can cause the dog‟s skin to dry out. A large bathtub may seem overwhelming, so you may wish to begin with a small amount of water in your kitchen sink. Place a soft, small towel at the base of the sink so that the puppy does not slip and slide on the sink‟s surface. Be sure to use warm water, take things slowly and use a hypoallergenic dog shampoo. It is very important to never use human shampoo or human conditioner. These products have a completely different Ph balance and will usually dry out the coat of the Pug. Dogs can have allergies to dog shampoo and condition; therefore using hypoallergenic products will eliminate that possibility.

Just like a baby, do not allow any suds to get in your Pug‟s eyes. Any “eye-gook” can be cleaned with a soft, damp washcloth or special doggie eye wipes. Be sure to cover all areas, including the ears. When done, be sure to dry all areas, including the ears, where moisture buildup can cause issues. If the ears are not dried, this can be a breeding ground for yeast infections and other health issues.

If Your Pug is Afraid of Baths Some puppies or dogs may be afraid of bath time. There are certain elements of the bathing process that scares them. There are steps that you can take to help your Pug learn to stay calm. Be sure to test the temperature of the water. Any puppy or dog would strongly resist going into very hot or very cold water. Hot water can burn your Pug and cold water can cause a sudden drop in body temperature. Test the water with the inside of your wrist. The water should be warm, not hot or cold.

Do not use a lot of water. Your goal is to clean your Pug, not have them go for a swim. While most dogs naturally know how to swim, your Pug may not want to have to paddle around! If your Pug is afraid of bath time, just add an inch or so of water. It is best to have warm water in a container next to the sink or bathtub to rinse them off.

Do not have the water running. Only place your Pug into the sink or bathtub once you are done filling it with the appropriate amount of water. It may be the noise of the running water which scares your Pug.

Go slow and gentle. No matter who dirty your puppy or dog may have gotten, even if they rolled around in mud, do not scrub hard. It is better to go slow and take a bit longer while gently cleaning them.

Make sure that the room (bathroom or kitchen) is quiet when you give your Pug a bath. With a lot of commotion going on, this may be overwhelming for your little Pug. Make sure that other people do not walk in and out of the room, do not take photographs of your Pug in the bath if they are afraid and keep your voice calm and soothing.

As you are drying off your Pug, give a lot of praise to show your dog that you are very proud that they completed the bathing process.

Once your Pug becomes accustomed to bath time, you will find that this is a wonderful way to bond with your Pug. This will be the special time that the two of your spend togetherâ&#x20AC;Śand your Pug will learn to love being pampered.

Chapter 24: Brushing and Combing

Pugs will need carefully brushing and combing to maintain a healthy coat and for hygiene reasons. Brushing will also greatly help with shedding issues. Brushing should be done each day or at least every other day to remove dirt in between baths and to keep shedding under control. Grooming tools needed for a Pug are: A grooming glove, slicker brush or soft bristle brush

When to Groom It is best to chose a certain time of the day to perform brushing and grooming. Dogs love to have schedules, knowing when to expect what usually creates a dog who is well behaved. Be sure to cover all areas of the body, not just the ones that you clearly see. After the Pug has had a complete brushing, you may choose to use a comb to go over the coat, but this is not necessary, just a nice finishing touch if you wish to do so. Many dogs learn to love grooming time. This can be a very rewarding bonding time between owner and Pug. Choose a time that you will not be rushed and enjoy this special time of closeness with your Pug.

When Your Pug Hates Grooming Not all Pugs automatically jump to your lap or grooming table to be brushed. However, you can train your Pug to enjoy this time. The first element is to have a great attitude. If you think of this time as a special time to bond with your Pug and look forward to this “alone time” that the two of you will have, your Pug will pick up on your vibe. Dogs are extremely sensitive and able to read their owners, not just by their tone of voice but by their actions as well. If you allow yourself to become frustrated, your Pug will know. No, you really can’t keep any secrets from your Pug! So, be relaxed and calm and your Pug will be less likely to run. To begin, choose a time of the day that you wish to have for brushing and grooming. It is best if you choose the same time of the day each time you groom. Dogs are wonderful at keeping inner body clocks. Once you train your

Pug to become accustomed to grooming time, they will know exactly when it is time to allow you to groom. Done the right way, your Pug can learn to enjoy this time together and soon will be running toward you for grooming instead of running away. For the first few days, do not use a brush to groom your Pug. Just kneel down next to your dog, approach slowly and gently lift them onto you. If you will be using a grooming table, gently place them down on the table. If you will be grooming elsewhere, just have the sit in that area. Be sure that the area you choose is quiet and does not have a lot of noise and distractions. Spend 2 to 3 minutes, just patting your Pug. Run your hand all along their coat, on all of the places that you will be brushing later. Talk to you Pug during this time. They will be listening very closely to your voice to see if you are enjoying this! Talk gently and calmly. Use this as a bonding time. After a few days, at the designated time, begin this again, however Â˝ way through patting your Pug, switch over to using the brush instead of your hand. Go very gently at first, use long strokes. Keep talking to your Pug in a happy calm voice. Praise your Pug for being good and give a nice yummy treat when done. After a week or two, you should be able to brush your Pug at the designated times, always speaking to them, praising them and giving a treat when done. They will then associate brushing with a time of receiving special attention, praise and a treat. Taking the time to allow your Pug to become used to being brushed and groomed is well worth the well behaved Pug you will have when complete.

Chapter 25: Nail Care and Dewclaws

Nails

Nail

trimming should be done every 3 months. Leaving nails to grow is unhealthy for the dog, as they may quickly become ingrown. If you have never trimmed a dog's nails before, you may wish to have a professional groomer trim them as your watch. As you will see, a special dog nail trimming tool will be used. If you are going to trim the nails yourself, be careful to trim a bit at a time. Each nail has a vein that runs through the middle of it; this is called the "quick". If cut, it will bleed quite a bit. You may use a solution, such as “Quik-Stop” that helps to stop the bleeding.

If your Pug runs when it is time to trim the nails, you can begin by just training your dog to get into the position of trimming, without actually doing so. You should begin by training your Pug to lie still in the position needed to best trim the nails. This can be done by laying your dog on their side and leaning over their body. Gently hold his paw and touch the nails. If your dog lies still, give lots of praise to let them know that they are being a good dog. As time goes by, and your Pug seems comfortable with lying down and allowing you to touch his nails, you can then carefully trim them. The secret to cutting a dog's nails, if black, is to cut very small pieces at a time. Only clip 2 millimeters or so at a time. Each time you trim a piece, stop to take a look at your Pug‟s nail. As you slowly cut away small pieces, you will eventually see a gray or pinkish color oval of color in the nail. This is your sign to stop cutting.

Dewclaws

What are dewclaws? These are the extra nails that are located very high on the side of the dog's paw. They are so high, that some describe them as being located on the dog's ankle. With young puppies, these are simply very small, soft nails. As the Pug grows older, these slowly grow into what can be described as an extra thumb. Sometimes, a Pug breeder will have the dewclaws removed when the puppy is very young and removal is easy. This is done anywhere from the age of 4 days to 1 week. Dewclaws are removed because they can cause issues for the Pug. Because of where they are located, the Pug can easily catch the dewclaw on fabric, the sofa, carpeting, etc. This can cause great pain to the dog as the dewclaws can become torn and ripped. If dewclaws are not removed, in time they may begin to grow jagged and crooked. This, again, can cause discomfort to a Pug. If dewclaws are not removed at the young age of 4 days to 1 week and are intact on an older dog, surgery is often needed to remove them. When an adult Pug has their dewclaws removed, they are not soft, pliable nails any longer. What can be described as an extra “toe” actually grows in the area of the dewclaw. The “toe” is made of flesh, muscles, ligaments and tissue just like any other part of the Pug. Therefore, removal is done as if it is an amputation. The dog is put under anesthesia to have this done. Since the Pug can be sensitive to anesthesia, it is best to avoid having this done unless the benefits of surgery outweigh the discomfort a Pug is having with a dewclaw. If you have a Pug whose dewclaws are intact, this does not necessarily mean that there will be problems. Many dogs have dewclaws that do not grow out of alignment. However, 2 elements must be remembered: 1. When you are trimming the nails, do not forget about the dewclaw. If left to grow, it will often grow very long and back into the dog‟s leg. This will be painful for the Pug and even worse having it removed. 2. Be careful when brushing your Pug if dewclaws remain. Sometimes it is easy to forget that a dewclaw is on the hind legs and can be caught in the brush or comb. Always take care to go around this. Fur right round the dewclaw can be carefully combed.

Chapter 26: Trimming Fur

Trimming will be necessary to maintain hygiene and in some areas, for the comfort of the Pug. The Pug should have excess fur trimmed from: The anus- This is for sanitary reasons, so that feces does not become stuck on extra fur

The paws- You will want to make sure that paw fur that is under the dog‟s paw is trimmed to the surface of the paw and does not extend out further than the paw, causing the dog to actually walk on fur.

The ears- Extra hair that is growing inside the dog‟s ears can make an easy breeding ground for infections, ear mites and other issues. It is best to inspect the Pug‟s ears during grooming time. Any longer extra hairs that are growing on the inside of the dog‟s ears should be plucked out. This can usually be done with your fingers. If you choose to use a tweezers, do be careful; your Pug may move quickly and the tweezers may damage their ear canal. Hair powder can be used to help make grasping the hair easier. This type of trimming should be done whenever you deem it necessary. This will vary from once per month to once every 3 months.

Chapter 27: Anal Glands Overview

All Pugs have anal glands. There are two of them, found right under the skin that surrounds the Pug‟s anal muscles. Sometimes these glands, which hold a fluid, gets released when the dog is having a bowel movement. Other times, they will need to be released manually by you, the groomer or the vet. It should be a regular part of grooming to express these glands (release the fluid from them) if they become enlarged at all. If you allow them to enlarge with fluid and do not take action, this can cause a serious health issue. These glands hold a substance that is similar looking to brown oil. The smell from the dog‟s anal sac gland secretion can be quite terrible. Sometimes, when a Pug eliminates, if the bowel movement is very hard or large, it will press against the sac and cause the secretions to come out. However, most dogs who have soft eliminations will not cause any secretion. The anal glands become engorged with fluid and cause quite a bit of discomfort for a Pug. The most common sign that your Pug has a need to have their anal glands “expressed” is scooting behavior. Scooting is the motion that a Pug makes when they rub their rear end across the floor or ground. They do this in an attempt to relieve the pressure that the filled glands cause. When a Pug has anal sacs glands that fill up with too much substance, this can cause the dog to feel very uncomfortable. That dog will then scoot their bottom across the floor in an attempt to relieve the discomfort. Many times, it is their scooting that will cause the sac to “break open” and the secretions will spurt out. This can be very messy; therefore we highly suggest dealing with this issue before they break open on your living room carpeting.

Treatment to Express the Glands When the fluid builds up enough for the dog to scoot, this means that the sacs are impacted. If the Pug does not break the sac while scooting, some type of treatment must then be done. Even if the sacs break on their own, they will build up again. Regular, on-going treatment should always be done before there are any more serious problems. This can turn into a serious canine health issue if the glands are not released of the fluid on a regular basis. If this is not done, the watery fluid will eventually turn to a substance that is as thick as peanut butter. (Sorry for that, if you are eating a PB & J sandwich while reading this!).

Once this happens, it is very, very difficult for you, a vet or a dog groomer to express the fluid out. Also, once done, there is a much great risk for the dog to get a bacterial infection and/or abscess.

How This is Fixed The glands must be released of fluid on a regular basis. For each Pug this will be a different period of time. You will know that it is time to have them released when they grow larger. Normally, they will be the size of a kidney bean and you won‟t normally be able to see them or feel them when bathing your Pug. As they become filled with excess fluid, they will grow the size of grapes or larger. You will then be able to see these lumps that are just beneath the surface of the dog‟s skin. There are 3 people who can express the glands: You Your dog‟s veterinarian Your dog‟s groomer

Expressing your Pug’s Glands Yourself You should understand what you are getting into if you choose to do this yourself! Anyone who is squeamish should not do this. Also, the odor can be extremely overwhelming and the process is usually very messy. Still ready to do this? Okay! You will want to place your Pug in the bathtub to express the glands. As if “popping a pimple”, you will want to put a finger on each side of the sac. You then will press upwards and inwards towards the rectum. If you do not see the fluid come out, you will then want to have your Pug‟s vet or groomer take care of this. If you want to learn the exact technique, the vet or groomer should be able to show you how they perform this action and then you may wish to try on your own again.

Having Your Vet or Dog Groomer Do This Many owners choose to have their Pug‟s vet or groomer do this procedure; there is no shame is saying that you do not prefer to do this or that you are not able to do this. If the glands have not been expressed in quite a while and this has gotten to the point of the fluid turning into more of a solid, you must have the veterinarian handle this.

Your Pug may need to be given a sedative medication. A catheter will be put into the duct of the gland. The vet will then slowly inject water into the gland until the secretion is removed from your dog. Most veterinarians will then inject an antibiotic ointment into the glands to protect against any possible bacterial infection. If there is a break of the skin, this will need to be cleaned with antiseptic solution. The vet will usually flush this solution into the gland each day until it has healed. This is the best treatment method, as the dog‟s gland must be allowed to heal from the inside first. Do take note that this can quickly mount into huge vet bills; therefore it is best to make sure that your dog has their glands expressed regularly so that this more serious issue does not happen.

When Surgery is Necessary There are instances in which your Pug may need surgery for this issue. Some dogs tend to have very frequent problems. If so, it is usually recommended for the anal glands to be surgically removed. After all, they serve no purpose in the dog‟s body and you do not want you and your dog to have to keep dealing with these issues. For this type of canine surgery, your Pug will be given a general anesthetic. The glands will be removed and stitches will hold the area closed until they heal, about 2 to 3 weeks later.

Prevention Unless the anal glands are surgically removed, you cannot stop them from filling with fluid. You can, however, make sure that they do not fill to the point of becoming a health problem. Check the glands at least each month to see if they have grown enough to be visible. It is best to do this while you are bathing your Pug. You can also have your dog‟s vet or the dog groomer check the glands at each visit. Many dog groomers express the sacs as part of the normal dog grooming process. If the sacs can be expressed by the vet or dog groomer while the fluid is still thin, your Pug should not have any serious health issues.

Chapter 28:The Care of Your Pug’s Teeth Overview

Not very long ago, it was thought that a dog kept their teeth clean by chewing on rawhide and other dog chews. It is now known that this is not sufficient at all. While rawhide does help, “real” dental care is needed. Many dogs die from a lack of dental care. Dogs to not usually get cavities as humans do. However, a buildup of tarter and plague can lead to very serious tooth infections. Tooth decay can cause: Bacterial may build up and enter into the bloodstream There may be tooth loss, leading to eating problems; this leading to nutrient deprivation Tooth decay can cause great pain for a Pug, which is avoidable if regular dental care is provided....both at home and with the veterinarian

When Dental Care Should Begin Dental care for the Pug must begin the moment you bring your Pug home. If you have a Pug puppy, you will want to begin taking care of their teeth at a young age. This will allow your puppy to become very accustomed to having their teeth touched and cleaned. If you bring home an older Pug, one of the first things that you should do is to bring your dog to the vet. Not only for a medical checkup, but for a dental checkup. It does not matter if you received your Pug from the best breeder in the world or rescued your dog from a shelter...you will have no idea of the status of the dog's teeth and what type of dental care was previously given.

How Often To Brush a Pug's Teeth To ensure excellent health and to avoid health issues to the best of your ability, a Pug should have their teeth brushed 1 time per day. Dogs behave better when they have schedules. Therefore, it will help to choose a certain time of the day which will be “Brush the Teeth Time”.

Professional Cleanings When you brush your Pug‟s teeth at home, this will remove plague. A professional cleaning done at the veterinarian‟s office will remove tarter, calculus and give your Pug what is called a “Full Dental”. This is usually done with the dog under anesthesia. You may wish to learn to scrape the tarter yourself to cut down on the amount of professional cleanings that would need to be done. If you do not scrape your Pug‟s teeth at home, your dog should have a full dental every 1 or 2 years. If you do scrape your Pug‟s teeth at home, your dog should have a full dental every 2 or 3 years. Having this done, the veterinarian will: Possibly anesthetize your dog. Take x-rays to assess the health of all of the teeth and bones of the mouth. Flush the mouth with a solution to kill the bacteria. Clean the teeth with handheld and ultrasonic scalers. All calculus is removed from above and below the gumline. This is extremely important and can only be done if the animal is under anesthesia. Using a disclosing solution to show any areas of remaining calculus which are then removed. Polishing the teeth to remove microscopic scratches. Inspecting each tooth and the gum around it for any signs of disease. Flushing the mouth, again, with an antibacterial solution. Optionally, applying a dental agent to retard plaque buildup. Recording any abnormalities or additional procedures on a dental chart. Determining the best follow-up and home dental care program for your dog.

How to Brush a Pug’s Teeth Never use human toothpaste. A dog can swallow a lot of paste during the cleanings and the fluoride which is found in human tooth paste can wreak havoc in a dog's system. Use dog toothpaste only. A dog finger tooth brush or dog tooth brush should be used. You may need to begin with the finger brush and then move up to the doggie tooth brush. A dog finger tooth brush is a rubber brush that fits over your finger. It has soft knobs covering it, so that as you rub your finger over and around each tooth, the plague is removed.

Begin at the earliest age possible. Your Pug may run from tooth brushings unless you slowly allow your Pug to become used to the feeling. You may wish to begin by allowing your Pug to become used to having your finger in their mouth. For the first week, set aside 10 minutes per day to have your dog sit down with you. Rub your finger all along your dog's teeth. Be sure to touch all of the teeth. When your Pug sits still and behaves, reward your dog will happy praise, hugs and a small treat. You may find that a young puppy is very hyper and will not want to sit still. However, if you remain constant and do this each day, your Pug will learn that when you say "Tooth Time" or whatever command you do use, that it is time to sit close to you and have their teeth touched. After a week or so, begin using the dog finger tooth brush. You will put a small dab of dog toothpaste on this. Be sure to brush all of the teeth and all sides of the teeth. After another week, you can then begin adding more and more toothpaste until you are using the appropriate amount (about a dab the size of a penny). At this point, you may switch to the dog toothbrush, as your Pug should be very used to sitting still for you during this daily, scheduled time. Many may be wondering what happens to the dog toothpaste. Well, a Pug cannot swish and rinse. Therefore, your dog will actually swallow most of the paste. You can wipe your Pug‟s mouth when you are done to remove some of the paste and then the rest will be swallowed. It is for this reason that never using human toothpaste is so important. Human toothpaste can be toxic to dogs.

Scraping a Pug’s Teeth Since it is best for your Pug to have their teeth scraped by you, instead of at the veterinarians while under anesthesia, it is recommend doing a scraping 1 time per month. An owner should not feel intimidated. This is very similar to when humans use a plague scraper. Some owners actually opt to use a human plaque scraper, which can be purchased at any store in the dental care section. The dog should sit down (and should already be used to having their teeth touched from the daily or weekly tooth brushings). As you carefully scrap each tooth, use a paper towel to wipe the plaque from the scraper. If not, this could be swallowed by your Pug and can cause health issues.

Since your Pug will be trying very hard to behave and sit nicely while you do this, when your dog sits still for this, give a small treat as a reward every few minutes. Once the teeth are scraped, you should follow up with a brushing. And then of course, with a yummy dog treat to reward your Pug for being so good.

A Word on Food & Treats Long ago, it was thought that feeding a dog dry dog food or hard dog treats was sufficient for cleaning the dog's teeth. We now know that this is not true. However, feeding your Pug a diet of dry, hard food will be better for their teeth than wet dog food. Offering rawhide to chew on will be helpful. However, when all is said and done, dental care should be given at home to make sure to keep your Pug as healthy as possible. Offer treats that are created to maintain good dental care and help teeth become & stay strong.

Chapter 29: Offering Proper Exercise How Much Exercise a Pug Needs

There are 2 types of exercise that should a Pug should receive: Moderate exercise - going for walks Cardio exercise - short but more intense bursts of activity, such as running after a ball, etc. A Pug should be taken for a walk at least 1 time per day. It does not matter at what time during the day an owner chooses to do this, however it is best if the walks are taken at the same time each day. Pugs, and just about all dog breeds for that matter, are happy and better behaved when they have a daily schedule. A Pug will soon catch on and know exactly when it is time to go for their walk. Walking should be moderate and at a fairly brisk pace. The walk should be at a pace where the Pug is moving along steadily; but not out of breath.

Cardio exercise should be short and a bit more intense. This should be provided at least 1 time per week, 2 times is optimal. You can choose from a variety of different ways to achieve this. Throwing a ball to your dog and having them run after it is always fun for a dog. This type of play is also an excellent opportunity to teach your Pug some command words, such as "Get" and "Return". Most Pugs love to simply run around. If taken to a park or open field, this breed will enjoy running free. Do, however, always keep your dog supervised and be sure that if you ever take your Pug off of their leash or harness that is very safe to do so. 95 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Some Ways to Provide Fun Exercise Not only is exercise very important for your dog's health, but this is a great way to bond with your Pug. Agility. You do not need to enter your Pug into a dog show event to enjoy the benefits of teaching your dog some agility moves. Do be wary of heights when your pup is young; however you and your dog can have great fun with a homemade obstacle course. You can teach your dog to jump through a hoop (just hold up a hula-hoop) and maneuver around obstacles (be sure there is a small but yummy treat waiting at the end).

Frisbee. Most of us have seen professional dog disc events; those events when usually large breed dogs leap high into the air, catching a Frisbee with ease. Your Pug wants to join into the fun too! You may wish to purchase a "baby" Frisbee for a Pug puppy and work up to a full size Frisbee as your Pug grows larger. Teaching your Pug to run after it, time it just right and then catch it midair can be a lot of fun for both of you and certainly a way to get their exercise! *Note: Do be sure to never "rip" the Frisbee out of your dog's mouth. You can train your dog to drop it on command. When first training for this, hold a small treat and offer a trade. Use the command word of "Drop" or "Give" and once your Pug offers it to you, reward your dog with the small dog treat and lots of praise. Hide & Seek With Treats. Command your dog to sit and have your dog watch you "hide" treats all over the home. The treats should be very small and tucked into many different areas...under a cushion, behind a shoe, on the first landing of the stairs, etc. Once you give the command word of "Go!' or "Find", your Pug can then run around the home, gathering up the treats.

Exercise Safety Whenever you are walking your Pug, hiking along a trail or out in the park for some exercise, be sure to bring along water. A Pug needs to drink all day long. To have its body begin to heat up and not be able to cool down with water and replace lost fluids, can be very dangerous. While you should always enjoy exercising with your Pug, just be careful to not exercise outside in extremely hot temperatures or for too long of a time. Knowing and understanding the signs of heatstroke and be of great help. While heatstroke was once only thought of as something that could happen to dogs who were left in hot cars, a dog can get heatstroke if exercising too hard or

if exercising in weather that is so hot that the Pug is unable to regulate their body temperature.

If Your Pug Resists Exercising Most dogs love to run, play and explore the “world” when taking walks. If your Pug resists exercising, you should immediately look to a possible medical issue. Many, many health conditions can cause a Pug to feel weak or to be in pain when moving. Therefore, a vet checkup is the 1st thing that you should do. If you Pug checks out to be 100% healthy, there are a few things to keep in mind: Are you choosing a time of day that your Pug wishes to exercise? While you may love taking a jog at 5AM, your Pug may be ready for their exercise in the late afternoon. Try to schedule exercise at a time when your Pug will want it, this is usually after being alone for a while or being confined in a playpen, etc. Some dogs will not want to go outside if they feel that there is nothing fun out there for them. In these cases, you must make it fun! Encourage them outside with a treat and then once outside, be enthusiastic as you run around, throw a ball, etc. If you send out a vibe that being outside makes you happy, your Pug will be more likely to follow your cue.

A Note on Dog Sweat Dogs have sweat glands on their feet. Dogs pant when they are hot because their sweat glands are not sufficient to cool down their bodies. Their tongues allow the water from their bodies to evaporate and cool down their bodies. When your Pug is panting, this is their attempt to cool down their body. As the water on a dog‟s tongue evaporates, this cools the dog down.

Chapter 30: Heatstroke Heatstroke

Always be aware that exercising in hot weather or exercising for too long poses the risk of heat stroke for any dog breed. Some owners do not understand that even the strong looking Pug can easily get heatstroke. Exercise is very important for your Pug and being afraid of your Pug getting heatstroke should not stop you from exercising your dog. However, with the breathing problems that Pugs can have, one must always be aware of this issue. It is a good idea to know the signs of heatstroke, should this occur, so that you may seek treatment right away. Heatstroke occurs when normal body mechanisms cannot keep the body's temperature in a safe range. Dogs do not have efficient cooling systems (like humans who sweat) and get overheated easily. A dog with moderate heatstroke (body temperature from 104º to 106ºF) can recover within an hour if given prompt first aid and veterinary care (normal body temperature is 100-102.5°F). Severe heatstroke (body temperature over 106ºF) can be deadly and immediate veterinary assistance is needed.

The Signs of Heatstroke in Dogs A Pug suffering from heatstroke will display several signs: Rapid panting Bright red tongue Red or pale gums Thick, sticky saliva Depression Weakness Dizziness Vomiting - sometimes with blood Diarrhea Shock Coma

What You Should Do

Remove your Pug from the hot area immediately. Before you move your Pug to take them to the veterinarian, you should first immediately give treatment. Once your Pug is stable, they should then be brought to the vet. Rushing to the vet, without first cooling down your Pug, can be fatal. You can lower your Pug‟s body temperature by wetting your dog thoroughly lukewarm water. (Do not use cold water; this will be too much of a shock for your Pug‟s body). Then, increase air movement around your dog with a fan. Allow free access to water or a children's rehydrating solution if the dog can drink on their own. Do not try to force-feed cold water; the dog may inhale it or choke. Once your Pug has cooled down and the signs are beginning to fade, you then should then bring your Pug to the vet right away.

What Your Veterinarian Will Do Your veterinarian will lower your dog's body temperature to a safe range (if you have not already) and continually monitor his temperature. Your Pug will be given fluids, and possibly oxygen. Your Pug will be monitored for shock, respiratory distress, kidney failure, heart abnormalities, and other complications, and treated accordingly. Blood samples may be taken before and during the treatment. The clotting time of the blood will be monitored, since clotting problems are a common complication.

Aftercare Dogs with moderate heatstroke often recover without complicating health problems. Severe heatstroke can cause organ damage that might need ongoing care such as a special diet prescribed by your veterinarian. Dogs who suffer from heatstroke once increase their risk for getting it again and steps must be taken to prevent it on hot, humid days.

Prevention Any dog who cannot cool themselves off is at risk for heatstroke. Following these guidelines can help prevent serious problems.

Keep a Pug with conditions like heart disease, obesity, older age, or breathing problems cool and in the shade. Even normal activity can be harmful. Provide access to water at all times. Do not leave your Pug in a hot parked car even if you're in the shade or will only be gone a short time. The temperature inside a parked car can quickly reach up to 140 degrees. On a hot day, restrict exercise and don't take your dog jogging with you. Too much exercise when the weather is very hot can be dangerous. Do not muzzle your dog. Avoid places like the beach and especially concrete or asphalt areas where heat is reflected and there is no access to shade. Wetting down your Pug with cool water or allowing him to swim can help maintain a normal body temperature.

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Chapter 31: Training Your Pug to Heel (Walk Nicely Next to You) Overview

With any of these training issues consistency (Practicing training techniques every day) will be the 1st secret to successfully training your dog. Following these instructions exactly will be the 2nd secret to success.

The Actual Meaning of “Heeling” Heeling is when your Pug walks on your left with their head next to your left heel. Heeling also means when your dog follows along at your pace. When your Pug is fully trained to heel, your dog will properly follow along whether you are walking, jogging or suddenly stop. A dog who heels always walks beside you and does not run ahead or stop to investigate everything. There will be plenty of times that you do not mind when your Pug takes their time to explore the world. However, training a dog to heel is one of the most frustrating training for dog owners. The reason may be that owners expect the dog to naturally walk beside them. A Pug has absolutely no idea that they are expected to walk nicely next to you. When first brought out on a leash, they do as they wish. They will chase a butterfly, stop to smell flowers, try to run ahead and explore. It is the owner that must show the Pug what is expected. When a Pug is trained in the correct way, showing your Pug how to heel is not very difficult.

At What Age You Can Begin This Training Your Pug should be 4 months old before you begin any outside training. Why? Because a puppy should not be brought outside or in public indoor places until they have had all of their puppy shots. Once your Pug puppy is up-to-date on all vaccinations, you may then go ahead and venture outside.

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Training Your Pug to Heel 1. Begin your walk with your Pug on your left side. Your goal is to always have your Pug on your left. 2. Any time that your dog tries to walk ahead of you, stand in place and do not move. Your Pug may try several times to keep walking. Do not pull on the leash. Simply remain standing and do not move. While you are remaining standing in 1 spot, any time that your Pug comes very close to you, talk to your dog and pat him. This shows that staying near you = the leash will not frustrate him or her. 3. As soon as your Pug stops trying to walk ahead by themselves and is remaining near you, give the leash a quick, moderate tug, continue walking and make sure to say “Good Boy!” or “Good Girl !” 4. Hold the leash with 2 hands. With your Pug on your left, you should be holding the leash very tightly with your right hand and very loosely with your left hand. 5. Anytime that your Pug walks beside you, keep repeating the command word of “Heel” in a happy yet firm tone of voice. Also, offer words of praise as you go along. 6. Change your pace; take turns walking slower and then faster. Do not just walk in a straight path; make this fun and challenging for your Pug by zigzagging around poles, making turns, etc. 7. You may need to tug and then say “Heel” over and over; however at any time that your Pug is heeling, offer great words of praise. Do not stop to pat or hug your dog; but keep saying “Good Boy” or “Good Girl” in a very happy tone to show your Pug how proud you are of them. 8. The first time that you take a turn and your Pug does not, they will quickly realize that they must heel to you. Of course, be very careful, as stepping on your Pug can cause extreme injuries or worse. But, walk confidently and show your Pug that you are in control. 9. These training sessions should be done each day, for 20 minutes. If you do not give up and you do this each and every day, your Pug will learn what they must do to hear your happy “Good Boy” or “Good Girl” remarks. When the walk is finished, be sure to give your dog tons of hugs, kisses, praise, attention and a small doggie treat. It usually takes about 2 weeks for your Pug to really understand how to heel. Even when it seems that they are well trained, do keep offering the words of praise as you walk along. Eventually, whenever you say the command word of “Heel” your Pug will immediately go over to your left side and stay beside you.

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If Your Pug Does Not Want to Go for Walks Some dogs are reluctant to go for walks. First, check the weather. Is it too hot? Bring lots of water. Is it too cold? Put a sweater on your Pug. How is the surface that you are walking on? You will not notice because you have shoes on…but look at it from your Pug‟s point of view. Lots of pebbles and rocks? Is it hot or cold to the touch? If so, doggie shoes can be implemented. In addition, you Pug may not want to go for walks when you do. If you can, find out what time of the day your Pug wishes to have exercise. This will take some time. However, every few days, choose a different time. Just as some humans like to exercise in the morning, some like to take walks at lunch time and some prefer evenings... so may your Pug. Working together, you should be able to pin point the time in the day that your dog most wishes to move around.

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Chapter 32: Training Your Pug: Sit, Lay Down and Off Sitting

You can begin to train a Pug to sit as young as 8 weeks old. 1.Have your Pug on your left side. 2. Have the collar and leash on your Pug. 3. Say the command word of “Sit” as you pull on the leash with your right hand and at the same time gently push down on your dog‟s rear with your left hand. You must do this gently. This will not be a push to force your dog to sit; it will be a gentle guide to the sitting position. 4. As soon as your Pug sits, say “Good Boy” or “Good Girl” several times in a happy and proud tone of voice. It usually only takes a few days of training for your dog to learn this command. Once you have taught your Pug to heel and sit, you can then combine the 2 commands. When you are walking and you stop, give the “Sit” command.

Down Down is not to be used when he is jumping up on you - that will be the “Off” command. Down will mean to lie down. 1.Have your Pug sit. 2. As you say the “Down” command, gently push your arm from behind your dog‟s front legs. This will cause your Pug to lay down. When the legs are gently pushed in this way, it will be a natural reflex for the dog to lie down. 3.The moment that your Pug is laying down, say “Good Boy” or “Good Girl” in a very happy tone that shows you are proud of your dog.

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4. Your Pug may then immediately rise up. This is alright. Doing the training 10 times in a row, at random times throughout each day will have your Pug laying down on command within a week or two.

Off Off is the correct command when a dog is jumping up on you when you do not want them to or they have made their way to your couch and you do not wish for them to be there. 1.If your dog has jumped up on the couch, pick him up and put him on the ground as you are saying “Off”. As soon as your Pug is off the couch, say “Good Boy” or “Good Girl”. 2. If your Pug is jumping all over you and you want them to stop, turn your body away, as your give the command word of “Off”. Your Pug‟s goal is to jump on you, not to see your back. Therefore, by turning away, you remove the goal for your dog. Then, command your Pug to “Sit”. Pat your Pug and say “Good Boy” or “Good Girl”. 3. If you see that your Pug is about to jump on you, you can stop this before they do it. As your Pug begins the jump, put out your hand and pat your dog on the top of their head as you bend over them. 4. Jumping on you is just one of the ways in which your dog will show their happiness at seeing you, a Pug has no idea that their paws are rubbing all over your fancy gown or tuxedo! Therefore, this command must be followed by the dog having your attention once they do get off of you and are sitting. Your Pug is always going to be looking for love and attention and an owner should always give this love back to their Pug. This can be done while still maintaining the training techniques.

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Chapter 33: Training Your Pug to “Stay” Overview

When taught correctly, the "stay" is a hallmark of a well-mannered, contented and safe Pug. Once your Pug has mastered "sit" or "down," an important next step is the "stay" command. The "stay" command assumes that your dog will maintain her position (whether sitting, lying down or even standing) until you release her. Without this skill, all you're technically asking when you say "sit" is that your dog touches the ground with their hindquarters and spring right back up to the chase. Teaching your Pug to wait, essentially freezing in position, until you indicate otherwise, will help you train your Pug to stay by your side, a plus for you and for your Pug. Sometimes "Stay" is often misunderstood and therefore misused, leading to an endless cycle of corrections and frustration for both you and your dog.

Starting from Scratch Learning the “Sit” command must be done first, before training your Pug to “Stay”. Command your Pug to sit. Once they are sitting, give the “Stay” command. Begin to take a single step to one side (and then back). If your Pug does indeed stay put, offer your dog a yummy dog treat. If your Pug moves, try again, but do not move away as far, you may find that you must only move a few inches at first and then work your way up. Practicing this way, you can "test" your Pug by making different actions while you command your Pug to “Stay”. You can run in place, sit on the floor, walk in circles and so forth.

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As long as each step is followed by a reward and praise and your distances are increased only gradually, your dog should enjoy and comply with the command. There's no need to challenge your Pug with something difficult, such as you leaving the room, until your Pug is completely understanding the “Stay” command. When you wish for your Pug to go back to normal and not stay in place any longer, give a command word that means that you are done. You may choose to say “Free” or “Done”. Be sure to finish off each training practice with hugs, praise and a yummy treat. As time goes by, do not offer a treat every time your Pug listens to you. Offer the treat every other time or every 3rd time. Your goal will be to slowly allow your Pug to be happy with your praise when doing well and not to always expect a doggie treat. In time, your Pug will be very happy to listen to you just to have your attention.

The Secrets to Successful Training Remember that your Pug can learn as much as you want them to. The secret is to: Take training step-by-step and do not feel rushed. Do not give up, take time each day to teach a command. Only go on to the next command once your Pug has learned one completely. Even once your Pug has learned all of the commands, still practice them at least 2 times a week to reinforce the training.

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Chapter 34: Training Your Pug to Stop Nipping (Biting at You) Overview

Training your Pug to not nip or bite at you is best done when the puppy is young. If not, it can become a hard habit for the Pug to break. However, with these training secrets, even an older Pug can be trained to stop nipping.

Rules to Keep in Mind There are some elements to keep in mind before you begin training: Never slap or hit your puppy in the face. This does not work! Your puppy will just think you are playing or could even become afraid of you. This may even lead to some much bigger problems than puppy nipping. The general rule to stop puppy biting problems is to always encourage acceptable behavior and always discourage unacceptable behavior. While you are trying to stop your puppy from biting, never play tug of war, wrestling or chase type games with them. This only encourages the biting and nipping. Whichever method you choose to train your puppy the golden rule is be consistent! This means that you and anyone else who comes into contact with your puppy have to enforce this method every time your Pug nips or bites. If you don't clearly communicate to your dog that the biting is unacceptable, your Pug will not know they are doing anything wrong. Your Pug has no idea that nipping is wrong. It is the owner who must teach this.

Exactly How to Train Your Pug to Stop Nipping The method that works together with this is to make your puppy think he is hurting you each time he has a nip at you.

Why does this work?

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Because when puppies are very young newborns and they are playing with their littermates, every time that a puppy is bitten too hard in play, that puppy lets out a loud and fast “Yelp”.

If you let out a sound that implies a loud and fast “Yelp”, this will immediately tell your Pug puppy that they are biting too hard. Whenever your Pug puppy nips or bites at you, give a loud and firm “OUCH!. Then, pull your hand/arm/leg away and act as if you are sad, leave your Pug and do not play with them again for at least 5 minutes. If your Pug just tends to nibble at your hand and you would not consider this nipping or biting, simply giving your puppy a teething toy in replace of your hand will work. As soon as your Pug begins to gnaw on the teething toy, be sure to offer great praise to let your puppy know that you are very proud of him or her.

For Extreme Biting Problems If your Pug is extremely aggressive or is severely biting you, you should first bring your puppy or dog to the veterinarian. When a dog is in pain, acting aggressive is the most common sign. If your Pug checks out 100% healthy and the biting is very aggressive, you may then wish to bring your Pug to an animal behavior specialist. You may also find our section on Severe Aggression helpful. You may hear of putting foul tasting solution on your hands or other strange training ideas…these do not work. In addition, some may recommend training that involves using a dog choke collar – this can be extremely dangerous or even fatal to your Pug. A choke collar is a sure fire way for your Pug‟s trachea to collapse. The above training techniques for nipping do work. There are just 2 keys that you must always remember: 3. Be consistent. If you let your Pug nip at you one day and do the training the next day, and then allow nipping again later that night…your Pug will have no idea what is expected and they will continue to nip. 4. Do not give up. Training takes more than 1 day. Each Pug is different. One dog may learn within 2 days that nipping is wrong; it may take another 2 weeks. Stick with the training and have some patience. 2 weeks of training is better than a life time of being nipped!

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Chapter 35: Socialization Training

Many owners of Pugs wonder exactly what “Socialization” means.

We hear this term when we talk of ethical and loving breeders “socializing” the Pug puppy. We also hear this when in regards to a dog having behavioral issues and not having received “proper socialization training”. Socialization is the process in which someone (the breeder first and then the owner) slowly and steadily trains a Pug how to: 1. Behave appropriately 2. Interact with people 3. How to respond to the environment (at home, while visiting friends, while traveling) 4. Show proper responses for certain circumstances (this can be anything from how the dog reacts when the doorbell rings to how a dog behaves when a visitor comes over the home) You Pug may need socializing in one or many of countless elements. The most common are: Reacting to the doorbell Reacting to visitors Reacting the being put into the car No matter what element your Pug needs socialization training for, the steps for this training is the same. When you are implementing socialization training, you will be successful only if: You do the training consistently. done every day, all the time, until your Pug has learned.

It must be

Again, no matter what your Pug needs socialization for, whether it is to become used to visitors, used to other dogs, used to the doorbell ringing or just about anything, the steps are the same. Whatever your dog needs help with, this will be called the “trigger” Day 1 – 5 1. Expose your Pug to the trigger for 5 minutes, once per day. 2. Every time that your Pug does not behave as you wish, completely and fully ignore your Pug

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3. Every time that your Pug behaves as you wish, offer happy praise in a cheerful and proud tone, pats and a small dog treat.

Day 6 to the End of Week 2 1. Expose your Pug to the trigger for 10 minutes, 2 times per day. 2. Every time that your Pug does not behave as you wish, completely and fully ignore your Pug. 3. Every time that your Pug behaves as you wish, offer happy praise in a cheerful and proud tone, pats and a small dog treat. Week 3 to Week 4 1. Expose your Pug to the trigger for 15 minutes, 2 times per day and also at random times when your dog will not be expecting it. 2. Every time that your Pug does not behave as you wish, completely and fully ignore your Pug 3. Every time that your Pug behaves as you wish, offer happy praise in a cheerful and proud tone, pats and a small dog treat. 4. Now that your Pug is close to knowing what to do, only give a doggie treat every now and then, when your Pug does as expected. For example, if they are remaining calm when the doorbell rings, give a treat every third time and not every time. (You want your Pug to behave appropriately because they are trained and wish to please you and not just to have at treat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; also something that can build up to make your Pug overweight) For example, if your Pug behaves out of control when the doorbell rings, you can have a helper ring the doorbell and remain outside, randomly ringing the bell once and a while for 5 minutes. At some point, your Pug will stop barking; immediately reward your Pug. Every time that your Pug barks, completely ignore him or her. As time goes by, you will increase the length that you expose your Pug to the doorbell. Continue to ignore your dog when they bark and behave out of control; continue to give great praise when they sit and do not bark. In time, your dog will learn that barking at the doorbell = being ignored and that sitting and not barking= getting attention from you.

An Important Word About Socialization

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The world is a big place to us and just your neighborhood is a big place to your Pug. Your Pug may need to become accustomed to car rides, going for walks, meeting new people…even acting calm when the TV is put on. For many people, socialization seems like a daunting thing! “How do I socialize my Pug!”. The answer, luckily, is very simple. It simply involves slowly allowing your Pug to get used to whatever element they do not seem to be handling well and coping with. Some Pug may be terrified of hearing a plane fly overhead, others may be afraid of the neighbor‟s cat! Socialization simply means introducing your dog to the element which causes fear/ stress, etc for a very small amount of time…and then each day increasing that time by just a little bit. Done over the course of several weeks, most dogs will become very used to whatever element used to scare them. Each time your Pug behaves well, you must give praise and rewards. When your Pug is not doing so great…never give out any form of punishment. If you do, you would just be teaching them that exposure to the element leads to punishment in the end. Think of it this way, if you never saw an airplane, never saw one in person, on TV or even heard of the word... And suddenly someone pushed you onto one and the engines started roaring…you would be quite afraid wouldn‟t you? Your Pug may feel this way with any element that they have not had a chance to become used to. With patience and time, you can slowly allow your Pug to become used to all of the elements and situations in their world. Doing so creates a happy and self confident dog.

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Chapter 36: Severe Aggression Overview

Most Pug dogs are loving, friendly and get along very well with everyone. However, just like any other dog breed, some Pugs can have aggression issues. When a person expects to have a friendly loving companion and finds themselves with an aggressive Pug, this can be very overwhelming. This is very rare to have a severe aggression problem. However, with proper training, you can get your Pug under control.

Aggression issues usually come in 1 of 2 forms: Aggression towards people. This can be strangers walking by or this can even be towards other human family members. A Pug may show aggression toward other animals. This problem will seem most severe if a Pug is aggressive toward other dogs or household pets.

Aggression Toward People- Overview This can be a very frustrating situation; however training can help. Why would a Pug show aggressive behavior toward people? There are several reasons, including: Fear - Your Pug may be afraid of strangers and the unknown. This can make a dog protective and this show outwardly by growling, nipping and even trying to bite people. Improper Status - When a dog is aggressive towards human family members, this is often a sign that the dog is confused about their place in the family. Health Issues - When any dog who is normally well behaved suddenly becomes aggressive, this very often is because the dog is suffering some type of health issue. When a dog is in pain, he or she will nip, snarl, growl and even bite those who love them. Why? Because a dog cannot tell you

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that they are ill or in pain. Feeling very vulnerable, a dog will then lash out at humans who become perceived as threats to them. If your dog becomes aggressive when their normal behavior is calm and happy...you must take your Pug for a full and complete medical checkup at the veterinarian. Even if your last appointment was 3 weeks ago, something may have happened from then to now. Please do not try any of the following training methods until you are 100% sure that your Pug is completely healthy.

Training for Aggression Toward Strangers This is a socialization issue. Your Pug needs to learn that as long as he or she is with you, strangers are a normal part of life and they must behave around them. It is naturally for a dog to be aggressive toward true strangers, those who may come to your home to sell you something, for example. Having your Pug bark and show some aggression toward these types of strangers is not a bad thing. In the case of a break in, your Pug's barking may just scare off the intruder. As long as your dog calms down once that person has left the property, all should be fine. If you approve of your little Pug protecting them home as a "watch dog" you can say "good dog", give a pat and then show your dog that all is well by reassuring words and calm actions. However, when you are walking your dog or in a social situation, you will want your Pug to behave. This must begin by slowing teaching your Pug what is expected of them and what is not acceptable. You will need helpers for this. Try to round up friends, neighbors and family members that your dog is not used to. Explain to them that you will be starting a training program for your dog and see if they will agree to take turns in helping you with this. Once you begin training your dog, it should be done every day until the training is complete. This will begin by having someone arrive at your home. Whoever arrives should have dog treats in their pocket. When you know that your helper is to enter, have your Pug sitting down beside you, with their leash on. Open the door and reassure your dog that all is fine. This is done with calm words and slow actions. Have your dog see that you greet your visitors without any tension. Have your helper give your Pug a small treat, making sure to save some for later. The goal of this training is to reward your dog with good behavior and to socially isolate your dog for bad behavior. When your Pug interacts well, even for just a minute, you must behave as if your dog just did the most wonderful thing in the world. Give treats, pats, happy words and praise. Any time that your Pug shows aggression, bring your dog into another room that is not occupied. You must then implement social isolation for 5 minutes. This

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means that you must ignore your dog completely. Do not say "bad dog", do not say their name, do not talk to them. Simply stand and allow them to see that life is certainly not fun when they do not behave. After the 5 minutes, attempt to have your dog interact with your helper again. Each action, good or bad must be acted upon with either praise or isolation. Have the 1st visit last for about 10 minutes. Have different helpers come to visit on different days. Increase the visits by 5 minutes per day until the maximum time of 30 minutes. By following this training method word for word, your dog should be very used to "strangers" and much better behaved within 2 weeks or so.

Training for Aggression Toward Human Family Members If your Pug is completely healthy and is aggressive with human family members, the most probable explanation that he is acting this way is because of a dog‟s innate instinct to be the “Alpha Dog”. When dogs ran in packs, there always was an “alpha dog”. There had to be 1 dog that was in charge of the pack. Pet dogs also need to have an “alpha dog” in their pack, which in current times is their human family. A dog needs to know… “Am I the leader?” “Is he the leader?” Without this being obvious to them, a dog may become confused. As stress mounts and the dog does not know if he is in charge or not…the dog may test family members to see who backs down, who takes charge and if anyone is going to face up to him to take his place. For extreme aggression, social Isolation training has been proven to work in many of these cases. It only works if it is followed precisely. Before beginning, hold a family meeting. Explain to everyone that intense training will begin and that it will require the help of everyone in the house. 4 days will be dedicated to helping your aggressive dog with all of the pressure to be “alpha dog” change into a peaceful and calm family pet. For this to work all family members should make every effort to have 4 uninterrupted days that they can stay home as much as possible. If this training works, your dog will revert back into a loving pet and the 4 days will be worth it all.

Day 1 and 2. Full and Absolute Social Isolation. The dog must be completely ignored except for placing food on the floor for him and allowing him to go to the bathroom… zero talking to him, never saying his name, not acknowledging him at all. This also means giving zero interest to negative behavior. If the dog barks, no one must say “no”. The dog must be

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ignored to such a level that he is next to invisible. When we love our Pug, this is very hard to do. However, one must remember that this is in the best interest of our Pug to train them to not be aggressive. If you can train your Pug to calm down, you will be able to enjoy a much better relationship with your dog. If your dog pushes against someone for attention, they must act as if the dog does not exist and so forth. It is essential that your dog sees all regular family members and is in the home with everyone…but being ignored completely. A great sign that this training is working, is if your Pug sleeps a lot more than ordinary on day 2. When a dog starts to think that maybe they are not the “alpha dog”, they start to unwind. The stress of having to be the leader ebbs away. A dog may sleep a lot more than average.

Day 3 Start the day the same as the first 2 days. However, each member of the family is going to take a turn calling the dog to them. This must be done every hour, for the first 5 hours. The person should call out to the dog to “come”. If your Pug listens and comes, that person should pat him, say “good dog” and then leave the room. It is very essential for the person to walk away first and then go back to paying no attention to the dog. This will be done 5 times for those first 5 hours. Then, people can call the dog over at random times. If the dog comes over, that person should give the dog positive attention with words, play, pats, etc. After 5 minutes, that person must turn their back and walk away. This sends an extremely forceful message to the dog about who is really in charge.

The Last Day (And Possibly Forever) The final day will be one that sets the standard for all days in the future. If a dog was severely aggressive, attention should only be given when a human family members initiates it. And it should end when that person wishes for it to end. A dog can receive all the love and attention in the world! Your Pug does not need to be ignored at all after the 4th day. You can take your Pug for walks, play, run errands together, sit and watch TV…anything! However, for dogs that were very aggressive, it must be the humans who begin any and all interaction.

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When the dog tries to get attention, they should be ignored for a minute and see that it is a human who decides when attention is given. This is the best and most proven way to change a formally aggressive dog into a calm and happy member of the family. If this training does not work, it is highly suggested to take your dog to a dog behaviorist specialist. Professional dog behaviorists will be able to see the dog one-on-one and determine any deeply hidden reasons for severe aggression.

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Chapter 37: Barking Overview

There are several elements to a dog's bark: Understanding what your Pug is trying to communicate to you Controlling unnecessary barking The Pug is a very intelligent dog and one which aims to please its owners. With some understanding of why your dog barks, an owner can then take steps to control excessive barking. This chapter covers: The types of dog barks and what they mean Training to resolve barking issues Types of barking and what your Pug is trying to tell you Multiple Dog Households

While a Pug may have barking issues, one must remember that a dog actually has many noises that he or she evokes, and not all are actual barking. The tone of the bark or "noise" also tells us what a Pug is trying to communicate. Understanding why your Pug barks is the first step to training your dog. Let's look at the 9 main types of noises your Pug may make: Barking in a low tone – This is a dog‟s way of warning that they perceive a danger or a change in the environment which they feel may be a threat. A bark with a low tone is a Pug trying to say “I see something new, it may be a danger”. A dog will also bark in a low tone if there is a change to its normal circumstances. Some Pugs are very sensitive and will bark if they hear a flock of birds, wind chimes, a loud car on the street, etc. Barking with a higher tone – This is an attention-getting bark. A Pug will bark with a high tone when trying to communicate a need, such as wanting to go outside or wanting to play. Howling - When a dog howls, this the noise of a dog communicating to another dog. Dogs can sense other dogs, even if they are not in view.

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Growling – This is a warning. This usually follows a low toned bark, warning of possible danger. The bark will turn into a growl if a person, animal or object (such as a car) comes too close to what your Pug considers to be their territory. A growl is a distinct type of vocalization, used to warn others to leave. If the dog's body in lowered into a pre-striking position, the growl is then saying. “I may bite you if you do not leave or if I feel you may hurt me”. A dog who is growling sometimes combines this with “tooth snapping” noises. The tooth snapping is the Pug's way of saying “I have teeth and I will use them if I feel that I have to!” Whining - This is a dog‟s vocalization of being in emotional distress. A Pug may whine when left alone, missing its owner or confined when they want to be running free. Whining can also indicate that a dog is in pain, this would be in conjunction with wanting to lie alone and not wanting to be touched. In cases of severe pain, a dog may become aggressive, as everything seems to be a threat when the dog is feeling vulnerable. Whimpering – This is similar to whining. A puppy will usually whimper and an adult Pug will whine. This means that the dog is in distress. They are sad, hurting or lonely. Moaning - While a human may moan if they have an injury, a dog will usually have a low tone moan when they are feeling happy. A Pug will most often moan if they are having their tummy rubbed, having their ears touched or another spot on their body that is ticklish. Yelping – This is quick, high pitched noise that is a clear fast indication that the Pug has been injured. A yelp will be much faster and higher than the high pitched, attention getting bark. A yelp from a dog is let out the instant that dog feels pain. If your Pug jumps and hurts their leg or steps on a thorn, you will hear a yelp. Many dogs will yelp and then in just a few seconds, the most intense pain will be gone and the yelping stops. Therefore, yelps are usually loud and short. For example, dogs with luxating patellas often yelp when the knee moves the socket out of place and then do not yelp even as they walk around with a kneecap not properly in its place. Owners should investigate the reason for any yelp. Whispering – Yes, a Pug can whisper and if your Pug whispers you know what an interesting and sweet sound this is. Some Pugs are not barkers. They make more of a whisper noise. Some owners even explain this to sound rather like “singing” if they dog whispers for a while. This is your Pug showing happiness and communicating in their own way. Consider yourself lucky if your Pug whispers, you will not have to train them for barking issues! Panting – Not officially a bark, but it is important to understand this noise. A Pug pants to cool themselves off when exercising. However, panting is also done when a Pug needs to relax. When a Pug is stressed, they may pant as a method to calm themselves down.

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Training For Barking Issues Does your Pug bark at sirens? Does your dog bark when the doorbell rings? These are common Pug barking problems. The dog will use either the low toned bark of a warning or the high toned bark of getting your attention. This is called Disturbance barking. If you think that their barking disturbs you, please remember that in this case your Pug is barking because they are being highly disturbed! Most dogs will respond well to desensitization training for this issue. The method behind this type of dog training is to slowly ease your dog into becoming used to the element which is causing the barking. To discuss how this training works, we will use "Barking at the doorbell" as an example. The goal of this training is to train your Pug to understand that barking = zero fun & no attention and that not barking = praise, attention, fun and treats. A dog will quickly catch on. 1. Begin by asking a friend or family member to help out. 2. At a random time, have your helper ring the doorbell, ask them to ring it 1 time, every 10 seconds until you open the door. 3. When your Pug barks, command your Pug to sit. 4. Talk in a quiet, calm tone, telling your Pug, "It is okay", or words to let your dog know that you are relaxed and there is no immediate danger. Only say this 1 time. 5. Whenever your Pug stops barking for at least 5 seconds, immediately: give great praise, pat them and offer a small yummy treat. 6. Whenever your Pug begins to bark, stand still beside your dog and completely ignore him. Do not pat your dog to calm them down and do not speak. Your goal is to show your Pug that barking = zero attention, no treats, no praise and that life is just not as fun when they are barking! 7. As the doorbell is ringing every 10 seconds, as soon as your Pug does not bark and calmly sits (and your dog eventually will, as he or she realizes that sitting nicely = praise and a yummy treat), then you should open the door. Greet your helper in a happy, calm tone and have your helper then pat your Pug and offer a small treat.

Reason for Barking and How to Resolve Them

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Protecting You: Why does a Pug bark? It may surprise you. Don't let their size fool you! Because they are weary of strangers, Pugs make excellent watchdogs and you will hear this barking to alert you to anything unusual. Pugs are very alert to what is happening and this dog is very alert to his or her surroundings. Believing they are much larger than they are, a Pug will bark to protect the people they love. As with any dog, you may wish to understand the different reasons why your dog barks and then you can begin to take steps to stop the barking.

Self Protection: One reason why a Pug barks is self protection. A Pug may also guard their toys and food bowls. How to Help: Make your Pug feel safe and secure that no one is going to take their food and toys. Put their dish in a quiet corner and do not bother your dog while they eat. Do not allow people to rush around the dog or yell while the dog is eating. If your Pug sees or hears loud commotions while eating, they may feel they are in a rush. Each meal should be a peaceful event. A dog’s toys should belong to the dog. Little children should not play with them and adults should not move them unless they are being put into the dog‟s toy bin or being cleaned. Boredom: Another reason why a Pug barks is boredom. Pug‟s may bark incessantly if they are not given enough stimulation throughout the day. A dog can get extremely bored when left to sit or lie all day. Can you imagine who bored you would get after a while? Therefore, many dogs will bark out of boredom. How to Help: Giving your Pug lots of different toys is not spoiling them. This is the best method to stop Pug barking out of boredom. Have a variety of different, interactive, fun toys. Toys that make noise, move when touched or hold treats inside can keep a Pug busy for hours. However, do not depend solely on toys. When a Pug is home alone, or you are busy, these toys will work great. When you are home, it is important to set aside time to spend with your dog. Your Pug may bark a lot out of boredom if you just expect your Pug to “be there”. Your Pug needs interaction. They want to play “Tug-of-War” with you. They want you to chase them around the home. They want you to take them outside to romp around. Enjoy all of the benefits of having a wonderful pet and your Pug will reward you by not barking out of boredom.

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Excitement: The reason why your Pug barks may be excitement. Dogs will get overly excited when you arrive home and this can lead to crazy barking and even accidental elimination or urination. Even a Pug that is house trained may exhibit excitement urination when greeting you. It usually occurs in puppies and your Pug is not probably even aware that they are urinating. As your puppy matures and develops bladder control, the problem will usually disappear. Your Pug is so excited to see you, he or she will bark up a storm. How to Help: Sometimes, barking is worst right as you pull up to your home and get ready to enter through the door. The best treatment for this is to prevent your Pug from becoming overly excited; you can do this by exposing your dog to the stimulus that excites him, over and over until it no longer excites him. When you get home, it will be difficult, but ignore him for several minutes. Don't even look at him. Then leave again for a few minutes, return and ignore, leave, return and ignore. Keep doing this until you can see that your dog is not only unexcited, but is actually getting bored with the whole thing. When your dog has calmed down and is no longer excited when you come in, then very quietly and gently say hello. If any signs of excitement or urinating appear, quickly exit and repeat the coming-and-going routine. Your Pug will learn that when they calm down this equals hellos, attention and hugs from you.

Night Time Barking Some Pug‟s are great all day and then just as your head hits the pillow, the barking starts! Your Pug, as with any dog, must learn that barking for your attention doesn't work. Repeat the word "Quiet”, clearly once or twice in a normal voice and then ignore your Pug. Yes, it is difficult to at first to ignore your dog, but in the long run it will produce a much better relationship between you and your Pug. Make sure your Pug has plenty of water, a treat or two and some toys that he can reach if he refuses to sleep. After ignoring his attention-getting behavior for a short while, he will learn to mimic you: he will sleep when you do. Ignoring dogs we love is not always easy, but if done for training methods, it is temporary and will lead to a long life together with peace and happiness.

Multiple Dog Households If you have 2 or more puppies or dogs, it is unrealistic to expect zero barking. When 2 or more dogs get together, they will bark. This will most commonly be done to communicate to get the attention of the other dog. It may be done to

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say, “Hey, let‟s go play” or “Look at this toy!” Therefore, if you are the owner of multiple dogs and they do bark a lot, there will not be a way to completely silence them. However, you can do a few things to cut down on the barking a bit.

Separation Training If you have 1 dog who seems to be the one to initiate the barking, you can take that dog aside for one-on-one training as described above. In this case, when 1 dog is the one who begins the barking, the others may simply be following along. If that main dog is taught to calm down and bark less…the other dogs will most likely copy that behavior.

Stimulation Whether you have 1 dog or 10, dogs need daily stimulation both physically and mentally, to remain happy and not be bored. Bored dogs bark! Be sure to allow your dogs exercise every day to release energy, offer interactive dog toys and play time with you…for a day that is full of fun.

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Chapter 38: Housebreaking Set-Back (Housetrained Dog Begins to Have “Accidents”) Overview

If your Pug was completely housetrained and then begins to urinate in the home, this may be caused by several issues. A bladder or urinary infection. This is a serious health issue that can cause a dog to be unable to control their bladder. Any time that a Pug suddenly begins to have bladder control problems, a veterinarian checkup is necessary to rule out any medical issues. If your dog is deemed 100% healthy, this can then be attributed to a behavioral issue. If you have determined that your Pug is healthy and this is a behavioral issue, it will be because of one of the following reasons: Attention Seeking Behavior This may be an attention seeking behavior. Even if owners are home with the dog, if they are busy and not paying attention to the Pug, the dog may feel ignored and lonely. When a dog urines inside, suddenly they are receiving a lot of attention! People are scurrying around, they are speaking to the dog, the house has come alive! This does not mean that you must hug and play with your Pug every moment...however, when you are home, try to take some time each hour to play, talk to or interact with your dog for about 5 or 10 minutes. This will be in addition to the regular schedule that you keep each day, such as going for walks, grooming, etc. Need for Approval - Even well trained dogs may sometimes need a reminder of just how great they are doing. Positive reinforcement training should be used at this time. Although you probably did this when you were training your Pug, this may need to be done again, to remind your dog that urinating or eliminating in the designated area = they are being a good dog and receive praise from you. Each time that your Pug does urinate or eliminate in the appropriate place, act as if your dog just did the most wonderful thing in the world. Talk with a very happy voice, say “Good Boy” or “Good Girl”, and gives pats and hugs. Offer a small dog treat. Act very excited and happy. You may not need to do this forever, but only when your Pug needs a reminder. Receiving your attention

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when behaving correctly works 100 times better than trying to reprimand your dog for accidents. Older Dogs It is one of the signs of aging for a dog to lose some control of their bladder or bowels. As you watched your Pug grow from a round little puppy into a mature, sleek adult your Pug was loyal to you and loved you with all of their heart. Now a senior dog, your Pug will need your understanding when they become old and have trouble controlling their urination and bowel movements. No matter what the age of your Pug, a medical checkup should be done to rule out bladder infection, bowel infections, urinary tract infection, tumors and more. If medical issues are not found, then your senior Pug has entered the phase of needing your help. Doggie diapers work very well in this situation. Most dogs find them very comfortable and this allows an older dog to have self-confidence. When an older dog, who spent years perfecting housebreaking, suddenly has accidents, this can be stressful for the dog. Putting on doggie diapers allows your older Pug to keep their pride and self respect. It only takes a dog a week or so to become accustomed to the doggie diapers. Marking â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Marking will be a behavioral issue of urinating inside the home. Details on this can be found in the Marking Section

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Chapter 39: Eating Feces Overview

It is disturbing and frustrating for dog owners to see that their Pug is attempting to or is eating feces. Understanding why your dog is doing this, can then help you stop this behavior. The medical term for this is Coprophagia. While it may seem as if this is a behavioral canine issue, there are actually some medical issues that can cause a dog to do this. Medical issues must be ruled out first, before actions should be taken from a behavior standpoint.

The Dangers Eating feces can cause a Pug to contract worms and other health issues. This behavior must be stopped for the sake of your Pug‟s health.

Medical Reasons Coprophagia can be caused by any medical problem that causes: The dog's body to have difficulty absorbing nutrients The dog to have gastrointestinal upset

Diagnosis If your Pug is eating or trying to eat feces, it is very important to bring this to the attention of your dog's veterinarian and have a full medical checkup. The vet should: Test your dog's stool Evaluate your dog's diet Blood tests

What Will The Blood Tests Show? When a dog has a medical conditions such as diabetes, Cushing‟s disease or thyroid disease...this can cause a dramatic increase in appetite...thus leading to that dog eating feces.

Why is the Stool Sample So Important? Your dog's stool should be tested for parasites. However, the most important reason is that the stool exam will show if food is poorly digested by your dog's

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body. When a dog eats a diet that is of low quality dog food, this will cause many health issues, including Coprophagia.

Nutritional Deficiencies A dog who is fed manufactured dog food often eats feces. Why? Because while it may seem as if you are feeding your Pug a lot of “high quality” dog food, what they are actually ingesting are fillers. Fillers are put into every single manufactured dog food that is made. Why? Because dog food companies save money this way. Fillers are non-food ingredients. They have zero nutritional value. The Pug‟s body does not absorb them. They pass right out via the other end. Fillers can be compared to a human eating a dinner that is sprinkled with small bits of cardboard. Fillers are put into dog food for 2 unethical reasons: To make the food appear to be more than it is. For example, if you look at 1 cup of manufactured dog food, you are actually looking at only 3/4 to 5/6 of food (depending on the brand) and the rest is empty, useless fillers. Those nasty fillers make a dog feel full, when in fact they did not eat enough nutrients. Therefore, if your Pug tries to or does eat feces, making a change to real food is the best thing that you can do. More information is found in the Feeding Chapter.

Behavioral Reasons This is more common with puppies than with adult dogs. In many cases of a puppy behavioral issue, the behavior will slow down and then stop as that puppy grows toward adulthood. Some puppies simply have a very strong urge to investigate things, feces being one of them. Owners, without realizing it, may be reinforcing the behavior. How? When a puppy does something that causes its owners to pay attention...this can cause the puppy to keep repeating the behavior in order to keep receiving the attention.

The best method to cope with this is to: 1. Never allow your Pug to roam around outside by themselves (A must for safety reasons as well). Your dog should be brought out on a leash and supervised while they eliminate. Once done, they should be lead away from that

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area. 2. The elimination area should never also be the dog's play area. Once a dog is done eliminating, if you wish to allow your dog some fresh air and to play outside...they should be led to a separate area in your yard. 3. Clean up feces as soon as possible. Using a water hose to wash down feces works well.

4. If your Pug dog is prone to eat cat litter feces, do please be sure to rule out the above medical issues. Once you know that your dog is 100% healthy, it is then best to put the litter box out of reach of your dog. Since cats can easily climb and jump, it helps to put the litter box in a raised area where your Pug dog will not have easy access. 5.If your Pug is crated at certain times and is eating any feces in the crate, the best option is to obtain a larger crate made for very large sized dogs. The crate should have 2 bottom areas, the area that the dog sits upon and an area below that which feces and urine drops down onto. With a crate made for larger dogs, there will be more space between the 2 areas; thus making the distance too large between areas for your Pug to reach the feces. 6. Never use the inhumane and unethical method of "sticking the dog's nose in the feces". This serves no purpose and will not lead to better behavior.

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Chapter 40: Eating Grass Overview

Nearly every dog eats grass sometimes, and some dogs eat it all of the time. You would think that veterinarians would have a pretty good idea by now of why they do it. But they don't, mainly because no one has figured out how to ask dogs two important questions: "Do you like the taste?" and "If it tastes so good, why do you throw it up?" Dogs explore their worlds with their noses and mouths. And there's the grass, attractive, sweet-smelling, with an appealing texture; and it's ever-soaccessible on the ground. Why not eat it?

Why Some Pugs Crave Grass Dogs are remarkably flexible in their tastes. They'll polish off a bowl of dried dog food, then walk over to see if there's anything good in the trash. If they're still hungry, they'll wander upstairs to see what's in the cat's box. Basically, they'll eat, or at least sample, whatever they find in front of them. Long ago, for wild dogs, if it was food, and they weren't going to pass it up. When meat wasn't on the table, they'd root around for tender leafy stalks, or roots, or an old polished bone. They simply weren't fussy, and dogs today haven't gotten any fussier. They're predisposed to like just about everything. In addition, there's some evidence that dogs get cravings for certain foods. It's possible that dogs occasionally get a craving for greens, just as people sometimes go to bed dreaming about lobster or meat loaf. It's not as strange as it may sound. Grass was part of their ancestors' regular diets. Dogs are omnivores, which means they eat meat as well as plants. They don't need grassy nutrients anymore because most commercial dog foods are nutritionally complete. But dogs aren't nutritionists. They don't know or care that they've already gotten their vitamin or mineral quotients from a bowl of kibble. Their instincts tell them that grass is good, so they eat it. Besides, there's a world of difference between satisfying the minimal nutritional requirements and having a great meal. And for many dogs, a mouthful of grass clearly tastes great. It's like a salad - they eat some, and then want more. Even dogs who usually don't eat grass will head straight for the nearest patch when they're feeling sick. They'll gobble a few mouthfuls, retch, and then throw

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up, or at least try to. Veterinarians still aren't sure if dogs eat grass because their stomachs are upset or if their stomachs get upset after they eat grass. However, many vets suspect it's the former, because dogs who are energetic and perky seem to be able to eat grass without getting sick afterward. It seems likely that there's something in grass that does stimulate the urge to vomit. The stomach has all kinds of neuro-receptors that respond to what dogs ingest. They react to acidity, chemical content, and textures. The texture of the grass has something like a tickle effect on the stomach, which may induce vomiting. This tummy tickle may explain why healthy Pugs can eat grass without getting sick. They take a mouthful, chew it thoroughly and swallow, then reach down for some more. Dogs who are sick, however, appear almost desperate for the grass. They don't chew it carefully or savor the taste. They gobble it. Without the chewing, those prickly little stalks hit their stomachs all at once. This may be what stimulates the urge to throw it all back up - along with whatever was irritating their stomachs in the first place. They can't stick their fingers down their throats or ask for syrup of ipecac like people can, so eating grass is something that works. And once dogs find something that works, they tend to stick with it.

Watch Out What Grass Your Dog Is Eating Unless your dog is in the habit of regurgitating grass on the dining room floor, there's no reason to worry about it. Dogs have been eating grass for thousands or tens of thousands of years, and there's no evidence at all that it's bad for them. That isn't the case, however, when grass has been treated with insecticides, herbicides, or other chemicals. Most products say on the label whether they're dangerous for pets. In any event, you should certainly keep dogs away from grass soon after chemicals have been applied. Most products break down fairly quickly, but they can be quite dangerous if your dog eats them while they're fresh.

What May Help It's just a theory at this point, but some veterinarians believe that dogs eat grass because they're not getting enough fiber in their diets. If your Pug wonâ&#x20AC;&#x;t stop eating grass, you may want to buy a higher-fiber food - dog foods for "seniors" generally have the most. Most dogs don't care for raw vegetables, but you can run some broccoli or green beans through the blender, adding chicken or beef broth for flavor. Or add a sprinkling of bran to their food.

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Chapter 41: Odd Eating Habits Eating Less Food than Normal

There may be times when your Pug eats less than normal.

This should be brought to the attention of the veterinarian right away to rule out medical issues. Dogs that are in pain will not eat. The first thing you should do is bring your Pug to the vet. If all checks out okay, this is most likely due to the temperature or it is a behavioral issue. Dogs will eat less in hot weather. If you turn your heat up very high in winter months, try lowering it a bit. If your home is very hot in summer months, do all you can to keep it cool. On average, a Pug will eat 10% less dog food for each 10 degrees that the temperature rises. Also, your dog may also appear to be eating less because of an increase in exercise that causes a bit of weight loss. Be sure you are not overexercising your dog; however do keep in mind that exercise is needed for good health!

Refusal to Eat In the Designated Area As a loving Pug owner, you most likely set up a really nice eating area for your dog. You probably have a nice matching food and water dish and a place mat that holds them. Following proper Pug feeding, you chose a quiet corner of a room to place their food. Does your Pug pick up their food and carry it into another room? There are several reasons for a dog doing this. If you have a dog that was previously owned by a neglectful or abusive owner, your dog may have learned that he or she must "hide" their food. Another explanation is that to you, your kitchen or eating area for your dog may seem quiet and free of distractions but your Pug may feel that the room is much too noisy and does not feel secure there. Be sure to make a very nice, quite area for your Pug to eat. Do all you can to make the area their own undisturbed dining area. Section it off or make sure no one walks by, even at times that your dog is not eating.

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It should be very clear to your Pug and to all members of the family that this area is only for your dog to eat in privacy. If Your Pug takes food into another room, and you have followed the above guidelines, gently take the food and bring it back to their eating spot. If your dog stays and eats there, even for a few seconds, during that time show how proud and happy you are with kind words of encouragement and a cheerful tone to your voice. If your Pug is having great difficulty eating in the spot you wish for them to, if they eat anything there, give great praise, hugs, pats and a big reward such as a new dog toy.

Finicky Eaters Most dogs will not have an issue with eating their dog food; but two elements can make your Pug stubborn about eating it: 1: You may have fed your dog human food and now they refuse to go back to dog food. 2. They may actually hate the taste of their dog food. If your dog was fed human food, you must be very emotionally strong to your dog to go back to the more healthy diet of a high quality dog food. about 2 weeks, you will need to remain firm in not giving in. Do not give Pug anything other than their dog food. This must be followed no matter much they beg.

train For your how

A dog, as a human, has an instinct to survive at any cost. Eventually, your Pug will give in and eat their food. Don‟t think your dog will be angry at you; they will forgive and forget as soon as they become accustomed to their own food. If you feel that your Pug simply detests their food, the easy fix is to get 4 or 5 different flavors of food. We suggest dog food that is specially formulated for the size of your Pug. Each day, try a different flavor. You will soon be able to know which flavors he or she truly loves. There is nothing wrong with giving your Pug the same flavor each day. The important element is that they will be receiving the correct amount of nutrient, vitamins, ratio of carbs to fat and protein that is intended for dogs.

Eating Cat Food Those who have a cat and a Pug may have the problem of their Pug wanting to eat the cat‟s food. Many dogs prefer to eat cat food. This is usually because the cat food is higher in protein, fat and calories, therefore making it tastier.

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In the overall scheme of things, the cat food will be unhealthy for your Pug. Remember that the nutritional needs of cats and dogs are much different, and their foods are formulated to meet those specific needs. Cat food, among other things, has much more fat in it than dog food… (And remember, we highly recommend home cooking). Although it is not usually harmful if a small amount of the wrong food is eaten, nutritional imbalances affecting your dog‟s health could occur if this continues long term. Dietary changes can also cause gastrointestinal discomfort and diarrhea. Since cats can climb and your Pug cannot, you may wish to place your cat's food at a level that your Pug cannot reach it. Gating off the cat's eating area (i.e. a laundry room or pantry) with a standard baby gate should help to keep your dog out if your cat can jump high enough. Feed both pets at the same times every day and put away both bowls after you're done. Get the pets on a schedule so they don't seek food at other times.

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Chapter 42: Pugs who are Bored Overview

Is Your Pug suffering from boredom?

Every year the world seems to run at a faster pace. Many of us are always juggling work and multi-tasking just everything done for the day. Between work, school, children, housework, running errands and everything in between, this can leave a Pug feeling a bit left out.

Why Dogs Get Bored When an owner leaves their dog alone too often or is home but does not have time to pay attention and play, this can leave a dog singing the blues. Just like children, a Pug can and does get bored easily. This can lead to depressed behavior at best and destructive behavior at worst. Some owners mistakenly believe that a dog does not need much to be happy. However, dogs are very intelligent creatures. A Pug thinks, learns and wants interaction. Without enough stimulation and activities to fill up the day, a dog will become bored. Can you imagine spending hours, day after day just laying around? Is your Pug receiving enough stimuli? While your Pug may be very comfortable at home, a dog can only be so happy with nice furniture and some dog toys. While it is true that some dogs are completely content to sleep the day away while their owner is away, there are many more dogs who are bored silly! Dogs have deep internal instinct to run, place, explore and socialize. Let‟s discuss ways to know if your Pug is bored and how to keep your Pug busy with an active and healthy life. The single most obvious sign that your Pug is bored is destructive behavior. If your dog clearly is trying to stay busy by emptying cupboards, ripping apart the trash or chewing on the legs of your coffee table…your Pug is telling you that they need something to do! Other signs will be a Pug who wanders around aimlessly or lies down and gets up over and over and appears restless.

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What can you do to keep your Pug from being bored? 1.You may want to think about adding another dog into your family. This is a big responsibility and should be thought out. However, studies show that when two dogs get along and have each other for company, they are more energetic and less destructive. It is very important to consider what type of dog would best suit your household and be a great friend for your Pug. Keep in mind the space that you have and your dog‟s tolerance for other pets. Never bring a new dog home until you test how your Pug will react. This can be done by bringing your Pug along to several visits with your potential new dog. You should also see how your Pug reacts to other dogs by having a friend, family member or neighbor allowing you to have a “doggie sleepover”. Most dogs do best with the same breed or of the same class (medium breeds). 2. Dog walkers are a great method of giving your dog something to look forward to each day while you are away. Having someone to come over and walk your Pug can break up the long day. This will allow your Pug to experience the outside world, see new sights, hear new noises, interact with the walker and get exercise at the same time. There is not always a need to hire a professional dog walker. This type of job can be handled very well by responsible teenagers looking for a small income. You should, of course, know that you hire someone that you can trust. A friend‟s son, your neighbor‟s niece or your newspaper boy are all great potential dog walkers! 3. Interactive alone time can keep your dog busy even when no one else is home. The best method is to provide your Pug with dog toys that hold treats. These types of toys allow you to place a yummy treat inside that your Pug will smell and then spend hours trying to unlock the “puzzle” of how to open the toy and release the dog treat. 4. While it may cause your electricity bill to go up, leaving on a television or radio has proven very effective with some dogs. Hearing different noises throughout the day can take away some of the boredom of a still and quiet home. Some studies have shown that dogs appear to actually notice happenings on the TV and a dog will react more positive to channels that show animals. Be sure to keep the volume at an acceptable level as you will not know what will be played while you are gone. If you will be using a stereo, be sure that your Pug cannot reach it. 5. Keeping your windows open to allow your Pug to view the outside world can be helpful. This must be tested, however. Some dogs will be very happy to sit upon a chair and “watch the world go by”. It provides visual stimulation that can take away boredom. However, other dogs may bark at all moving objects. It is best to try this out while you are home, yet busy and see how your Pug reacts.

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6. While it is important to always keep your dog‟s food and water in the same area, you can mix things up a bit with your Pug‟s toys. Placing several toys in all rooms of the home will allow your Pug to “discover” toys as they walk around. It is also helpful to keep two distinct toy bins. You can alternate which toys you leave out for your Pug. Use one toy bin one week and the other toy bin the second week and so on. This can offer your Pug “new” toys every week. 7. Keeping your Pug well exercised can help. If time allows, going for a brisk walk or run before you must leave can tire your Pug out. This will cause your dog to take a longer nap than usual and cut down on the time that he or she is awake yet home alone.

While we cannot keep our Pug busy every moment of the day, implementing one or several of the above ideas can greatly help your Pug keep from being bored and enjoy life more! Life goes by fast, it goes by even faster for dogs…do all you can to make every day a great one!

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Chapter 43: When a Pug is Afraid of Thunder Storms Overview

Many dogs, including Pugs are afraid of thunderstorms.

Some dogs could have a hurricane blow in around them and they would remain laying down, chewing on their favorite toy. However, the majority of dogs have a heightened sense of awareness during storms. And a percentage of those dogs are absolutely terrified of thunderstorms. Does your Pug act very upset when it thunder claps in the sky? Does your Pug bury their head or begin to shake when they hear the noise? If so, you are not alone. Some people talk of this issue as if it is a canine phobia. However, unlike most phobias that are based in on an imagined fear, a dog has very good reasons to be afraid of thunder. Whether you get 1 storm per year or 10 per month, letâ&#x20AC;&#x;s take a look at how we can help our Pug cope with a thunderstorm.

What Will a Pug do When They Show Fear of a Thunderstorm? All dogs have their own amazing personalities, however most dogs who are truly frightened of thunder will do one or all of the following: Attempt to hide Shake Whine Pace back and forth Begin to drool excessively Bark out of control Chew items that they normally would not, such as furniture In severe cases a Pug may simply lose all control, some have been known to ram into doors, break windows, etc.

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When your Pug behaves this way toward thunder, it is time to step in and help your dog gain control over their actions and reactions.

Why a Pug may be Afraid of Thunder If your Pug is afraid of thunder, you are not alone by any means! This is one of the most common outside-element inducing behavioral problems for dogs. It is important to look at this from your dog’s point of view. There are 5 main elements that may cause your Pug to behave frantically: The flashes of light – This can be quite disturbing to a dog and cause them to lose their feeling of security and control over their normal environment. The noise of the thunder – This is loud for you and I…can you imagine how this sounds to a dog who‟s hearing is 1000s of times more sensitive than a human‟s? High winds - These sometimes produce high pitched sounds that only your dog will hear and can cause them to panic The sound of the rain hitting the roof of your home – With a dog‟s heightened sense of hearing, the continual pounding of rain can be quite aggravating to a dog. The air pressure – Surely you know of that “feeling” you get when a storm is on its way. You can actually “sense” when a storm is coming, you “feel it in the air”. Your dog, with heightened senses, feels this 100 times stronger than you do!

Is This Normal Behavior? Studies are interesting on this subject. Surveys have shown that some dog breeds are more prone to behave negatively to storms than other breeds. While any dog of any breed may hate thunder, dogs in the Herding, Sporting and Working families are found to be more apt to show this behavior. Why? It is suggested that these dog breeds have been taught over centuries to be very aware of their immediate environment, but to suppress aggressiveness; thus causing them to have anxiety instead.

Rescue puppies and dogs are more likely to be afraid of thunder. It is thought that these dogs have had less socialization to get them used to the world around them. Most have also experienced many unpleasant things before being rescued which may simply make them more skittish in many situations.

How to Help Your Pug

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The dog training technique of Desensitization usually works very well. For dogs with extreme fear, this type of training will at least help calm them down enough that they will be able to cope better. The theory of this type of dog training is to slowly allow your Pug to become used to the noises and lights. The change in air pressure will be addressed after a dog is more comfortable with the noises and lights. It is suggested to purchase a CD recording of thunderstorms. These can be found at just about any CD store and are usually used to help people sleep. It is important to remember that training does not happen overnight. This type of dog training is a step-by-step process. You will need to remain consistent in your efforts while taking things slowly. You will want to choose a time in the day when your Pug is at peace, such as after a walk when your dog is resting and comfortable. Sit on the floor, patting your Pug gently, and allow the CD to play at a very low volume. If your dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s ears perk up or your Pug appears restless, reassure him or her with gentle, calming words and continue to pat them. Allow the sounds to play for about 5 minutes on the first day. Week 1: Keep the volume of the CD the same, however increase the time by 1 minute each day until your Pug can sit through about 15 minutes of very soft thunder noises and remain calm. Week 2: Repeat the training of week 1, however now you will have a helper flicker the lights in the home on and off at random times while the noises of the thunder plays softly. Again, patting your Pug and reassuring him or her that everything is okay with your gentle and calm voice. Week 3: Continue this training each day for the 15 minutes. However, every other day, slightly increase the volume of the thunder sounds. It will be your calm actions and your gentle, reassuring words that will show your Pug that all is fine and that there is no reason to be alarmed.

Air Pressure The only way to train your Pug to stay calm when the air pressure changes, is during a thunderstorm. When one does happen, you should remain very calm. Your motions should never be rushed. Some owners will run over to windows to slam them shut or run across the room to close a door. Beware of these actions: your Pug may interpret them as you behaving as if there is a danger. While the storm is taking place, pat your Pug and talk calmly just as you did during the training exercises.

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If Your Pug Does Not Respond to Training Most dogs will respond very well to the above training, if an owner takes the 15 minutes out of their day to work on this issue. Some veterinarians may suggest a mild anxiety medication for your dog. However, we do not recommend this unless you live in an area that receives substantial thunderstorms. Why? Because most thunderstorms only last for a very brief period of time and do not happen that often. It is not healthy to sedate your Pug when the storm will be gone by the time the mediation begins to work! As an alternative, it is suggested to offer your Pug an area where they are allowed to “hide”. A dog bed or crate filled with soft baby blankets and a favorite toy can help to calm your Pug down and allow them to retreat to “safety”. This area should not be enclosed. When a dog is scared, they can panic even more if they are confined. Your Pug should know that they have the option of leaving this area as soon as they wish to. Remember that your actions and tone of voice will teach your dog so much about the world. While your Pug may be sensitive to thunderstorms, he or she is also very sensitive to your actions and words. Showing your Pug that a storm does not affect you at all will help your Pug understand that no danger is present.

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Chapter 44: Nesting Behavior Overview

Nesting is something that pregnant Pugs do. This is when their bodies tell them that they must prepare for their soon to be born puppies. Dogs will dig or they will take household items and store them away to make makeshift homes if a whelping box has not been prepared. Once the puppies are born, the mother will protect them with all of her heart. But, did you know that Pugs can display these same nesting behaviors when the dog is not pregnant? And, male Pugs can display nesting behavior also!

What Can Cause Nesting Behavior in Dogs? For female dogs, your Pug may have a false pregnancy. This can happen when the dog‟s hormones mis-trigger and the dog reacts as if she were carrying pups, when indeed she is not. The medical term for this is called Pseudocyesis and is not uncommon with dogs. If this does happen, it will usually occur 6 – 12 weeks after a heat cycle. Pseudocysis can actually cause your female dog to begin to produce milk. Should this happen it is best to have your veterinarian perform a complete medical checkup. In some cases, medication will be used to stop the production of milk. It should be noted; that it is not recommended to have your female dog spayed if she is in Pseudocysis…you should wait until it passes before having her spayed. And it is certainly recommended to always spay your female dog if you are not planning on breeding her. This greatly reduces the risks of many dog health issues, including ovarian and mammary cancer. Male Pugs may also pick up nesting behavior, usually caused by the need for security. This can stem from feeling as if they are not getting enough attention (from the perspective of the Pug) For both male and female Pugs, the most obvious sign is when they become very attached to a household item. The item will usually be a small, soft object. Often a sock or washcloth. Sometimes female Pugs will actually collect several small objects... as if she is creating a make-shift litter! In many cases when a Pug displays this type of behavior, the female will often guard over her “litter” of

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“puppies” for quite a while. She may also gather newspapers or blankets to create a warm “home” for her “litter”. A male often will just choose one object, and then will protect his “puppy” for quite a while. A Pug of either sex may show nesting behavior because of the need for security. This is similar to when a child becomes very attached to a blanket. The object that is chosen is most often one which carries the scent of the dog‟s owner.

How to Help Your Pug to Control Nesting Behavior If your female dog‟s body is sending off signals of a false pregnancy, she will lose interest in her “pretend” litter within a matter of weeks. As stated above, if milk production has begun, a vet check is needed. However, if your male or female Pug is showing nesting behavior because of the need for security, there are steps that you can take to help your dog. It is best to not take away the object that they are so connected to; this can cause undue stress to your Pug Make an attempt to show extra attention to your Pug. Perhaps add an extra walk into your daily routine, or take an extra 20 or 30 minutes to play with him or her. Down time is also a time when you can show extra attention, such as when you are resting and watching TV. Have your Pug sit upon your lap and pat them while you watch your favorite show.

To Summarize If your dog‟s nesting behavior is due to a false canine pregnancy, if milk production is occurring you should have the vet complete an exam. If the nesting behavior is due to the need for security, extra attention will help your dog feel more secure and feel the need to have their security object less and less. As you give your Pug more attention, they may stop showing great protection over their chosen object. However, if your Pug does not act aggressive if someone picks up their object…it may be best to allow them to have it… after all; it causes them to be calmer.

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Chapter 45: Depression Overview

Can a Pug be depressed?

It wasn‟t very long ago that doctors believed that depression was “all in someone‟s mind”. Now, we know that clinical depression is a real medical condition. We certainly know that dogs feel emotions, therefore can sadness and depression be one of them? This chapter discusses what research tells us, how to spot the difference between a dog who is a bit “mopey” and one who is experiencing troubling issues and…how to help your Pug. As any Pug owner knows, if our dog is suffering in any way, physical or emotional, we must do all that we can to help our Pug.

Clinical Trials While this is still a hot button subject, sure to propel many more clinical trials on dogs to study this more intensely…we do know that dogs show and feel emotions. Dogs have been proven to show and feel very complex emotions, such as: Shame Pride Jealousy And embarrassment, among many others Since all of these complicated emotions can be felt by a Pug, it is theorized that a dog can most certainly feel depressed.

The Symptoms of Depression in a Pug Depression can bring about many physical symptoms in a dog. These are not always present, however most dogs who are going through an emotional upset will display at least 1 of the following signs:

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Lethargy – Your Pug will not show excitement to go for walks, play, etc. Your dog who once used to jump or behave with excitement will now not show any display of happiness for activities that they used to enjoy Weight Loss - Your Pug may now just nibble at his or her dog food, when they once used to run over with excitement at the mere smell of it. Lack of Interest - Your Pug will show behavioral changes such as not wanting to be petted, not showing interest in their toys and perhaps not even barking when strangers come to the door, if they used to do this. Sleeping - Your Pug may sleep a lot more than normal. Since dogs already sleep quite a bit, if your Pug is sleeping even more…you will notice that he or she is rarely awake.

Medical Issues Because all of the above symptoms of depression in dogs are also symptoms of other medical issues, it is of the utmost importance for your Pug to have a full and complete medical checkup with the veterinarian. These symptoms can also point to thyroid issues, canine diabetes and many more canine health concerns.

What Causes Canine Depression Studies show us that the #1 reason for dogs becoming depressed is change. Many types of change can cause adverse behavioral changes in your Pug, including: A friend may have moved away or contact is limited. If a dog is used to playing with another dog or another animal, and that interaction stops, this can cause many behavioral changes. If a household pet passes, this can have a huge impact on a Pug. Moving to a new home. All that you Pug was used to…all that he or she knew…is gone. Yes, the dog‟s family is still there. However, their favorite area to play is gone, those smells of the old home is gone that made them feel secure, their familiar noises are gone. And so is their confidence as they try to navigate around a home that they are not used to. A change to the family. Whether this change is a new human family member or a new animal family member, a dog may take this as a negative experience. Boredom. Dogs need to have a day filled with elements that keep them occupied and busy. When a dog simply must sit or lay down all day, with little or no interaction or fun, a dog will become bored and then possibly depressed.

How to Help Your Pug

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If you know that a change is coming, as soon as possible, work with your dog to allow him or her to become accustomed to the new element.

If you will be moving, try to take your Pug with you to the new home as many times as possible, before you move in. Spend at least an hour each time. Bring their favorite toys. Walk them around both the entire inside and outside of the home. Doing this repeatedly will show your dog what the boundaries of their new house will be. Take time to play in the yard with your Pug. Take them for a short walk on what will become their new walking route. When it is time to make the move permanently, bring all of their favorite items: their toys, dog bed, blanket and other items that they are very familiar with. Try to set them up in the same places as before. For example, their dog food dish in the right corner of the kitchen, their dog toys in a dog toy basket in the corner of the living room. If a there will be an addition to the family, do not “push” your dog to become immediate and best friends. This takes time. Allow your Pug to become used to the new smells of a baby or the new aspects of having another pet in the home. Shower your Pug with attention; it is easy to get caught up in the excitement of your new change…but making sure to give your Pug an overdose of attention will make this so much easier on your dog. If your Pug has experienced a loss, such as the loss of a canine playmate, do consider getting another dog for your Pug. Studies show that dogs are happier when they have the company of another dog…most specifically, if that dog is of the same breed. Boredom can be fixed by remembering the 2 things that a Pug needs: A daily schedule which includes going for walks, play time, grooming time, scheduled eating times, adventure times (such as going with you to the store, going hiking along a path, etc) and time spent in the company of their human family. Fun toys and stimulus when they are alone and must keep themselves occupied. In most cases, when the cause is a change in the dog‟s life, time will fix this canine issue. The change that caused the behavioral issue will become part of the dog‟s life within a month or so. Dogs cope and adjust relatively quickly.

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In rare cases, of very severe depression, especially in those cases in which the dog will not eat, medication is a possibility. The medication Prozac has been proven to work with dogs. If your dog‟s depression does not seem to be lifting after a couple of months, do talk to your veterinarian about this issue. Some veterinarians may be a bit skeptical regarding this canine issue; others will be very open and will have read the latest studies. If your Pug has had a full medical checkup and all other possibilities have been ruled out and your Pug is still behaving extremely depressed… if you veterinarian does not want to discuss the possibility of depression, we suggest contacting a 2nd vet for a 2nd opinion. Luckily, dogs often “live in the moment” and with your love and attention, your dog will most likely adjust to the changes that caused them to feel down.

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Chapter 46: Begging Behavior Overview

Does your Pug constantly beg for food?

This can be a very frustrating dog behavioral issue. Dog owners, who make sure that their Pug is eating plenty of dog food, can find themselves wondering, “Why is my Pug begging for my food?” This type of dog behavior often begins with the simple act of innocently giving your dog one morsel of your food. Many dog owners do not think twice about it. If your Pug relentlessly begs for food, it is most likely because this one tiny action of handing a piece of your food to your Pug started a behavioral issue. Your Pug thinks, “If I was given human food once, I‟m sure I can have it again, I just need to keep begging for it!”

Training Your Pug to Stop Begging So how can you stop your Pug dog from begging? Training your Pug to end this type of behavior will take strict training; you must be consistent and nonwavering. Once you prove to your dog that begging is counterproductive and life is not fun when they are begging, your dog will stop. How do you do this? Social Isolation is the key. Before you take this on, if there are other human family members beside yourself in the home, it is suggested to hold a family meeting. Discuss that you all need to work together as a team to train your Pug to stop begging for food. Make sure that everyone understand the rules of this training and that everyone agrees to follow the rules 100% of the time, no matter how much you Pug dog begs for food! This type of dog training will take several weeks and may be difficult at times. However keep in mind that when you are done, you will have a well behaved Pug. You will have a Pug dog that is polite when company comes over for dinner and you will have a dog who lets you eat in peace…all elements that are worth a few weeks of training! The key is to 100%, completely and absolutely ignore your Pug dog when he or she is begging for your food. Now, this does not mean that you are to just not

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give your dog your food. This means that as your Pug howls, barks, jumps, whines, begs and makes those “puppy dog eyes”, you must act as if the dog is invisible and you cannot hear him. If anyone gives in and at any point in the day offers human food to your Pug dog, training must begin all over again. So it is very important to stick to this training method without fail. It is best if you plan to have your Pug‟s dinner time be the same time as your dinner time. Set down his dog food and then proceed to the dinner table. Expect it to be a very noisy dinnertime for the first couple of weeks, as your dog makes every sound possible to gain your attention. If your Pug jumps up and physically bothers you, it will be best to leash him or her away from the human food. It is best to keep your dog within sight and not put your dog outside or in another room. Why? Because if your dog does not see the food and the chance to beg for it, he will not learn that begging is negative behavior . Your dog needs to be in the situation of human food being near him and learn that begging for it will not be accepted. If at any time, your Pug stops begging and sits or lays still, it is very important to praise him. During this initial training period, you will want to over-praise your dog. Say “Good Dog” several times in a tone that implies that you are very happy and proud of him. Whether your dog is sitting or lying down, get to his level and gently pat him. Do not take action that will get your Pug dog all excited, but let it be very clear that you approve of your dog‟s behavior. Whenever your Pug dog shows no begging behavior during an entire meal, once you are done eating give great reward. (Just don't let that reward be your food!) During these first few weeks, a dog should be given a new toy if they do not beg for an entire meal. You should pat your dog and give great words of praise. If your Pug loves attention, spend some time throwing a ball around or another activity that your dog loves to do. It is very important that your Pug dog learns that when he behaves, life is better!

Lessons Learned Over several weeks, your Pug dog will learn some very important lessons: • When he begs, everyone in the home ignores him…he receives zero attention. Since a dog loves attention, being ignored = life is not fun • When he does not beg for food, he is rewarded with attention, play and praise. Consistent and rigid training is the only effective way to correct a dog from begging.

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Chapter 47: Why a Pug May Shake Overview

There are some Pug owners who notice shaking behavior.

This can occur only during certain circumstances or a dog may shake almost all the time. There are several reasons for this. An owner should first eliminate the possibility of a medical condition. There are several common health issues that may cause a dog to shake uncontrollably. Pugs may shake if they have a very high metabolic rate and the shivering controls their adrenaline. The high metabolism rate sometimes affects their sugar. Low blood sugar can occur if meals are skipped or for other reasons. You should have your dog's veterinarian check for this ASAP if the shaking is severe. Dogs that have ear infections have been known to shake, particularly their heads, in an attempt to "shake off" the pain and uncomfortable feeling of an infected ear. Even if you do not see anything wrong, a veterinarian can take a closer look to make sure. They can shake because they are happy, nervous or cold. Pain can cause a dog to have tremors; with any number of health issues that could cause a dog to be in pain, a vet must do a complete exam. Low Blood Sugar A drop in blood sugar occurs most often with puppies; however a dog of any age can develop this. This is called Hypoglycemia. The puppy or dog will also appear weak and listless. For puppies, offering Karo syrup usually stabilizes the puppy as you bring him or her to the veterinarian. In severe cases, an IV may be needed to stabilize the Pug and bring that pup or dog back to normal levels. Ear Infections If you suspect an ear infection, veterinary care is needed. The Pug's ears may need to be flushed out and medicine applied. In most cases, you will be sent home with antibiotics to give to your puppy or dog for several days. The Cold A dog may shake from the cold. Although you may feel that your home is at a comfortable heating level, your Pug may be feeling very chilled. This can 149 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

especially happen when it is hot outside and a person puts their air conditioner on to severely cool down a room.

Your dog, having spent most of the day indoors, does not have a need for a rush of cold air to feel better. It is best to raise the temperature a bit to see if this helps. You can also put doggie sweaters on your Pug. Dog clothes are not only cute, they offer protection. Dog clothes protect a dog's paws from outside elements, keep them warm and offer comfort in severely cold weather. Fear/ Stress If your dog is deemed healthy, the temperature is warm and they still shake, this is most often due to fear or stress. Some owners may not understand this element, as they love and care for their Pug tremendously. However, fear and anxiety may not be conditions that an owner causes to their dog; rather there can be underlying causes and an owner can help their dog feel better. Some dogs that shake do so from a deeply rooted fear of past abuse. Sadly, animal abuse is widespread over the entire world and many of the dogs that receive such mistreatment are trained to be terrified. In addition, it is the breeder who shapes the personality of the Pug. The first 3 months are most crucial in socializing a Pug and allowing them to slowly learn about the world. Without proper socialization, a Pug may be afraid of certain elements. If your Pug shakes from fear or stress, your dog may shake at any noise, motion or word you say. Be patient. In this case, your Pug will learn from repetition that you will do them no harm. In time, their fear will diminish. You should try by all means to provide a quiet and calm home. Televisions and stereos should not be loudly blasted. People should not be running through the house. Although you do not need to walk on tiptop, eliminating unnecessary harsh noise can calm down a Pug. If everything is calm and your dog still shakes, you must patiently show your Pug that no harm will come to them. If your Pug shakes every time the doorbell rings, speak in a calm voice to tell your dog that everything is alright. Gently pat her to let her know that you are not fearful. Walk to the door slowly to show that the doorbell does not equal an emergency. Greet your visitor with happy and calm words. As you show your Pug that there is nothing to be afraid of, your dog will slowly mimic your calm behavior.

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Chapter 50: Having More Than One Dog Overview

Having

more than 1 dog can cause some issues in the household. Most common will be: How do you train your Pug to get along with another dog? When a new dog enters into the family, this can cause a socialization issue based in the natural instinct of a dog needing to know his or her place in the pack. It is very possible for many dogs in a home to get along just fine...with proper planning and training

The Alpha Dog When you have a Pug and wish to bring another dog into the home, you may imagine that you will simply have double the fun! You may picture both dogs being best friends and playing together like little brothers and sisters. If one Pug is so cute, then 2 or more would be heaven! Right? Not always... Many dog owners are not aware that it happens; however when you bring a Pug into your home, that dog goes through a process of figuring out who is the "Alpha Dog". What does this mean? Dogs have a natural instinct for everyone in the "pack" to play a role. There must a dominant leader and there must be subordinates. Your Pug's "pack" is his or her human family. Your words and your actions show your dog who is in charge...in other words, who is the "Alpha Dog". The majority of Pug behavior problems occur because a dog is not clearly shown that their human family member is the "Alpha Dog" or "leader". If a dog gets mixed messages or if a dog is inadvertently led to believe that they are the "Alpha Dog", this will cause a dog to think and act as if they are the head of the household and that is when behavior issues, such as aggression issues, will occur. When you have a Pug and you bring another Pug into the home, or you bring another dog breed into the home, this opens up the question of "Who is Alpha Dog out of the canine pack?â&#x20AC;? Your Pug will then need to figure out how this new dog affects the household.

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Your Pug will begin to think "Is this other dog now in charge?" "Am I still in charge" "Do I need to fight to hold my place as Alpha Dog?"

For your Pug to get along with another dog, clear boundaries must be shown and both dogs must be trained to understand how you expect them to behave.

Boundaries Most likely you have been following the rules for your 1st dog in giving your Pug his or her own places. Your Pug should already have a designated area to eat. This should be in a quiet corner of a room where no one will bother them and your Pug should always know where they can expect to find water and food. Your Pug should already have their own place to retreat to: a dog bed or other area where your Pug can go when they wish to rest or get a break from any noise or distractions. What should happen when you want your Pug to get along with another dog? Make sure that each dog has their own separate boundaries. While it is envisioned as cute to have both dogs eating side by side or sleeping right next to each other, unless 2 dogs decide that they are comfortable with that, they must have their own areas. For your Pug to get along with another dog, be sure to give your 2nd dog their own eating area. This can be in the same room as your 1st dog. However, each dog has their own invisible boundary that they will not want crossed as they eat and drink. If the dog food and water is placed too close together, the dogs will have a tendency to fight for what they consider to be their territory. If you see any aggressive behavior during feeding time, this means that you should put the dog food further apart. Each dog should have their own dog bed or resting area. This is especially important if you have an older dog and a younger dog in the house together. Your older dog will want their own private area to retreat to when the younger dog is wearing them out. Again, this can be in the same room, but in separate corners of that room. When you have dogs with a big age difference, it may be best to choose separate rooms. Each dog should also have their own set of dog toys. It is best if these are kept in separate baskets in separate areas. The dogs may fight to claim a certain dog toy; however this will be discussed below. This does not mean that your dogs will not interact or play with each other! This

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simply allows each of them to have their own boundaries for what is most important to them.

Who is in Charge? When you have a Pug and another dog, there will be a process of the dogs trying to figure out who is in charge (in other words, who is the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Alpha Dog"). This becomes slightly complicated. You, as the dogs' owner, are the true Alpha Dog. You must show that you are the leader of both dogs. This is done by properly training your dogs to listen to you and take commands. You are the leader of the "family pack". Aside from that, in a smaller socialization circle, the dogs themselves with need to know which dog is in charge of the "canine pack". Most of the time, the dogs will be able to decide this among themselves. And most of the time, it is the older dog who will be the leader. It is perfectly fine for 1 dog to be the leader and this does not mean that your Pug cannot be friends with another dog. How do you know which dog is the leader? It will be the dog who goes out of the door first when you call for them to take a walk. It will be the dog who heads into the kitchen first when it is dinnertime. It is completely natural for the older dog to discipline the younger dog. It is not acceptable if strong aggression is shown and the younger dog is injured. However, for the home to run smoothly, you should allow the older dog to "put the younger dog in his place" as long as there is no aggression. For example, an older dog may push the younger dog away if he gets too close to his toys. Once you notice who is acting as the "Alpha Dog", you can help both dogs get along better. How? When dogs do not understand their place, it is very stressful for them. The pressure of trying to maintain their role as leader is hard work! You can help by giving the leading dog his food first. When you are giving out treats, give a dog treat to the "Alpha Dog" first. Doing this each day, will help the dogs understand which role they play and will make them happier dogs.

Equal Love The dog who is not "Alpha Dog" is just as important as your other dog. It is natural for 1 dog to be the leader, but this does not mean that the leader receives more love or attention. Both dogs should be treated equally. The leader may begin eating first, but this is a role play between dogs. They should still both get the same amount of love, attention and care from you, the true "Alpha Dog".

How to End Fighting Between Dogs

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Once it is established which dog is in charge, this does not give that dog a right to fight with or act aggressively with your other dog. Normally adjusted dogs are very happy with 2 dogs in the home or 10 dogs in the home. If your Pug growls or bites your other dog or dogs or if your Pug is the one getting bit, this must be acted upon immediately. You may attempt to reprimand the aggressive dog. However, social Isolation works best. A strong and firm "NO!" followed by isolating the offending dog for at least 30 minutes is suggested. The more you work at helping your dogs establish who is the Alpha dog, and your actions confirm that, your dogs will stop fighting. And letâ&#x20AC;&#x;s not forget that spaying and neutering pets greatly cuts down on territorial behavioral issues.

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Chapter 51: Separation Anxiety

Most Pug owners cannot be home all the time and as you know it is not possible to bring your Pug everywhere with you. There will be times when you will need to leave your Pug on their own. This can be a disaster or it can be a great way for you to train your dog how to behave. When you are at work will be the largest amount of time that your Pug will be home alone, unless you have family members that will be there with the dog. If you have another family member that will be in charge, it is very essential that they follow the rules that you set up for your Pug. You do not want your dog to believe that when you leave, he is free to ignore rules. Anyone watching your Pug should be given a basic list of what and what not to do regarding feeding, bringing your Pug outside to eliminate and dog safety. If you will be leaving your Pug home alone, this is perfectly fine as long as you follow some rules about how long a Pug can be left alone and how to keep your dog safe while you are not there. If you will be going somewhere overnight and cannot bring your Pug, it is best if this type of dog is under the care of a friend or family member. If that is not possible, your Pug would fare better in a doggie kennel or dog hotel. You will find doggie hotels that offer a nice and comfortable experience for dogs; much better than a kennel. Left alone over night, too many things could go wrong and your Pug will not have you there to help him. Water can spill, he could choke, the puppy could find himself in big trouble by snooping around in areas where he normally does not go when you are home. Read more about hidden dangers in your home.

How Long You can Leave a Pug Alone without Housebreaking Needs

a Plan for

How long you can leave your Pug home alone will depend on the age of your dog. Once a Pug is considered to be no longer a puppy, you will be able to leave for around 8 hours without worrying. However, when your Pug is a puppy, you should only leave your dog home alone according to his age, if at all possible.

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The guideline to follow is that a Pug puppy can hold its needs one hour per month of age. For instance, a 2 month old pup can hold its elimination for 2 hours, a four month old puppy can hold its elimination for four hours and so on. Once your Pug is 8 or 9 months old, he or she should be able to hold their needs for about 8 hours; almost the precise time you should be away working and leaving your dog home alone.

Saying Goodbye in the Right Way to Reduce Separation Anxiety Each time you get ready to leave the house and say goodbye to your Pug, it is an occasion to train your dog to behave while you are away. Although this may be a cheerless moment for you, think of the positive way in which you are instructing your Pug to handle being home alone for a while. Although it may be tremendously tempting to hug, kiss and give lots of attention to your Pug right before you leave the house, it is best for both of you if you do not. Doing that may give your Pug more of a feeling of stress from being separated from you. It is best for your Pug if you teach him to be okay while you need to leave for a while. The best method to train your dog to be home alone is to act very composed when you are getting ready to go. Do not pick up your Pug and make a huge fuss over the fact that you are leaving. If you perform as if it is alright to leave and it is no big deal, then your dog will learn there is nothing to worry about. When you are prepared to walk out of the door, have an amusing dog toy in your hand. Toss the toy across the room to divert the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s attention. When you are first applying this tactic, it must be a new dog toy or treat and it must be an appealing one that will hold his attention for quite a while. If you search around, you can find many wonderful dog toys that are made in such a way that you can hide small yummy treats inside of it. Your Pug will smell the treat and take pleasure in working to find it. The more complicated the dog toy, the better this will work. Toys that make noises are perfect and so are colorful toys. It is a falsehood that dogs do not see color. All dogs can see all colors of the rainbow; although they see it in the same way a person sees things outside when the sun is setting.

Preparing to Leave Once your Pug is old enough to be home alone for the amount of time that you will be gone, you must prepare your home so that all goes well while you are gone. There are a couple of things you can do when deciding where to leave your Pug. He will be safe at home if you put him in a playpen. Given his size, a pen will allow tons of room to run around and he will not feel confined. You may also wish to use a baby gate to contain your Pug to one specific room. If you do not feel completely certain that your Pug can hold his

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elimination, it will be best to use the kitchen or bathroom; a room without a carpet. Once your Pug is quite used to what is and what is not acceptable behavior, you may wish to simply allow him or her to roam the house. Many dog owners can easily do this once their Pug is trained. No matter which option you choose, you will want to leave enough food for your Pug. Feeding is best done on schedule, however if your Pug is not yet 1 year old, you will need to leave food for your Pug. You do not need to overcompensate by leaving a huge amount of food. The normal guidelines for proper feeding should be followed so that your Pug cannot make a mess or over eat. Leave plenty of water and if possible, you can purchase a water dispenser so that your Pug can drink whenever they wish and it cannot get knocked over as a water bowl can.

Coming Home Entering the house in a bustle of excitement will not help your dog stay calm and learn to cope with you being gone. Just like the training for the “puppy pees” your entrance should be calm. Read the mail, have a drink or do something for a minute or so (where or not your dog is barking) and then go over and calmly say hello. Once your Pug is calm, you can then play around, etc.

Separation Anxiety + Biting If your dog bites at you or others when you try to leave the home, this is a form of Separation Anxiety. Your Pug is not really biting at you in a show of aggression; they are making a desperate plea for your attention. Your dog is not angry at you, they are sad and doing a last ditch attempt to get you to stay home. Understanding this, the answer is to give your Pug the coping ability that he or she needs in order to handle this time of when you (or others) are leaving the home. Most of you have heard that old joke that the man said to the doctor, “Doc, when I move my elbow like this, it hurts” and the doctor answers by saying, “Don’t move your elbow like that then!”

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This theory applies to this situation. One must first remember that if your Pug does not have access to your ankles when you are leaving, they cannot possibly bite them! Therefore, the 1st step is to set up an area for your dog for when you will not be home. Even if you need to step outside for a moment. The goal is to have zero nipping and biting. It is best to have a baby play pen or a gated off room. Look at this area from your Pug‟s point of view. What would make this comfortable? What would make this fun? At the very least, your Pug‟s special area (which they will learn to love) should include: A soft & cozy doggie bed A bunch of interactive dogs toy – ones which have hidden treats inside, make noises and are very colorful (yes, dogs see color) Newspaper in a corner in case your Pug will be home alone for longer than they can hold their needs A baby blanket to cuddle with Food if they will be home during a feeding time Water – Water must never be withheld, a dog should be able to drink as much as they wish. If your Pug has a habit of tipping over water bowls, a water dispenser works wonderfully A TV or radio playing at a moderately low volume in the background. Once you have this area set up for your Pug, you must follow the directions for regular Separation Anxiety as seen above. Basically, you will not make a fuss when you are leaving, you will place your Pug in their area 5 to 10 minutes before you leave and when you come home you will not greet your Pug in an excited tone. Instead you will calmly read the email, get a drink, etc. and then calmly and in a controlled way happily greet your Pug to give hugs and kisses. Again, your Pug cannot bite your ankles as you leave if you do not give their mouth access to your ankles. Setting up a nice, warm, cozy area will offer them a safe, happy place to be while you are not home.

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Chapter 52: When a Pug Hides & Is Afraid Overview

Most often a rescued Pug will hide and act frightened in many circumstances. However, any Pug may have this behavior. If your Pug tries to hide behind you, hide “inside” you or acts terrified in normal circumstances, there is help. The training technique to help your Pug with this will take a lot of willpower on your side. When we have a Pug who is very afraid, we want to protect them from all that scares them. That is our instinct. However, by doing this, we are not really helping. When we allow our dogs to "hide" on us and offer comfort when they are afraid of simple things, we are actually teaching them that they are correct in their reactions and behavior. This does not help our dog. Since your goal is to show your Pug that he is safe, that there is nothing to be afraid of and that no one will hurt him... this training involves not allowing your Pug to hide on you. When you pick up your Pug or say words of comfort, you are unintentionally saying, "Yes, this is very scary, you are in danger and I will protect you from this scary world" Before we go into the training, do be aware of who is coming over to visit. It will be best for your Pug to be able to get used to a small group of the same people first. Once doing so, then a 2nd group of friends may begin visits. If your Pug sees different people all of the time, this may be too overwhelming for a dog who was abused or neglected in the past, or one who is very fearful. With this training, it will allow your Pug to first learn that group # 1 is not scary. And then, he can go on to learn that group # 2 poses no threat. Training must be 100% consistent. It will not work if you do it 50% of the time and then go back to old habits the other 50% of the time.

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While this may be difficult at first, do please remember that this training will help your Pug have self confidence. It will allow him to be able to enjoy the world and not be afraid of it. While it may be hard for you...this will greatly help your Pug in the long run and for the rest of his life. Each and every time that he "hides" on you and wants to be picked up, you must behave as if nothing is wrong. Do not pick your Pug up. Do not give words of comfort. Keep things calm and peaceful. If you are speaking with someone, continue speaking with them. Allow your Pug to hear that your voice is exuding happiness and calm. Do not talk to your Pug. If you do, you are reinforcing his behavior and teaching him that he is correct in being afraid. . If your Pug keeping circling around you or begins jumping on you, you may say something in a tone that implies that your Pug is being silly. For example, "Silly dog, you're acting silly, everything's fine" and then continue with what you are doing. Think of this as a child who is afraid of a butterfly. If you had a 5 year old who screamed and acted afraid when a butterfly flew by while you were going for a walk with her, would you pick her up and comfort her? Probably not. This would teach her that butterflies were indeed scary. You would simply say, "That's just a butterfly, nothing to be afraid of" and you would continue on. This same method should be implemented to show your Pug that the world is a safe place.

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Chapter 53: Sleep

Different

Sleep Needs for Different Ages Newborn to 7 Weeks Your newborn to 7 week old Pug is going to sleep a lot. The newborn will sleep just about all of the time in which the pup is not nursing. Once a puppy‟s eyes open (at approximately 3 weeks), your little Pug will then stay awake a bit more to begin exploring the world. At this age, a Pug puppy should be sleeping with its mother and littermates inside of the whelping box or other area that is setup to keep all puppies and mother dog warm and in a quiet space. All puppies should be kept where you will be next to them the most. They must be watched over all of the time for signs of Hypoglycemia and other issues. Puppy Sleep When you bring home a Pug puppy (normally between 8 to 12 weeks old), it is best to choose a sleeping area for your Pug and do not move it. Puppies do well when they have consistency. Your puppy will sleep anywhere from 12 to 18 hours per day. It is recommended to have a warm and cozy doggie bed for your Pug. This can be placed right next to your bed. If you really cannot resist having your puppy sleep with you, this is best done if your bed is cornered in the room; thus providing safety on 2 sides. The 2 remaining sides can have baby bed gates placed on them, to help prevent the possibility of the puppy falling off of the bed. If your puppy has a hard time knowing where to sleep, you will need to show them what is expected. Keeping a daily schedule is important. Once you perform your evening tasks, such as feeding dinner, going for a walk, making sure the puppy has been brought to urinate and eliminate…when it is time to sleep, lower the lights, put a soft baby blanket in the

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doggie bed, add a favorite toy and gently place your Pug down into their bed. If they keep getting up, encourage them to stay in the doggie bed by praising them when they are in the bed and gently patting them to relax them. Adolescent Sleep It will be normal for your Pug to sleep from 12 to 14 hours per day; however for some dogs even 18 hours is normal. It is very important that your Pug receives the correct type of sleep. Just like humans, dogs need to have REM sleep. This is the deep sleep that is needed and the phase in which a dog (or human) has Rapid Eye Movement. Yes, dogs dream! If your Pug, at this point, is resisting the doggie bed and wants to lay on the floor, it is highly recommended to lay down a soft baby blanket on the floor. If not, the carpet or other type of flooring can cause the fur to wear away on the dog‟s elbows. If your Pug is left to sleep in an area in which there is a lot of noise and commotion, this will interrupt that very important REM sleep. This can cause a dog to become very moody. Be sure to offer a quiet spot in a quiet room.

The Senior Pug Your senior Pug should have an orthopedic dog bed. This will be the most important aspect for the sleep of an older dog. Orthopedic dog beds will help your older Pug with sores muscles, bones, aches and pains. The older Pug may sleep between 14 and 18 hours per day.

Sleeping Problems Sometimes, a Pug will have trouble sleeping. This is most often caused by a change in the environment. Changing the layout of furniture or moving to a new home are the biggest culprits of a disturbance in a dog‟s environment. If your Pug has trouble sleeping, there are several things that you can do to help: If furniture was re-arranged, try to put it back into the original layout. If your Pug is very energetic after eating, slowly change your dog‟s dinnertime to an earlier time in the day. 162 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Be sure to offer daily exercise. A dog who lies around all day without stimulation will be much less prone to want to lie down and get a good nightâ&#x20AC;&#x;s sleep. Keep with a schedule. Dogs have an exceptional internal clock. A Pug may get confused if you lower the lights and have bedtime be 8 PM one night and 10 PM another night. Be sure that the doggie bed or other sleeping area is fresh and clean. Wash the doggie bed at least weekly, using a hypo allergic laundry detergent. Be sure that there is not: o Drafts in the sleeping area o The doggie bed is not damp

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Chapter 54: Digging

While the Pug is not classically known as a digging dog (there are other breeds whose urge to dig is deeply instinctual such as the Yorkshire Terrier), there are Pug‟s who love to dig. They will attempt to dig holes when brought outside to play or to eliminate. This not only can make your yard look like a gopher‟s field and cause your Pug to get dirty, it can be dangerous if your Pug digs under a fence and sneaks away if you do not have them on a leash.

Where do Pug's Usually Dig? A Pug who loves to dig will do so in the yard, the sandbox, the park...or just about anywhere that the dog has access to sand, dirt or gravel. They may enjoy making many small holes in the ground or work each day on a larger one.

How do I Stop my Pug From Digging? To help a Pug control digger behavior, 3 things must be done: Control the dog's access to area that he may dig Distraction techniques Reward for good behavior Controlling Digging Access The Pug will not dig holes in a yard if they are supervised and not allowed to dig holes. Any dog, when left alone unsupervised will begin to show inappropriate behavior. The dog is bored and alone...and will begin to do things to keep themselves occupied. It is best to always supervise your Pug. Even if you have a fenced in yard, if left by themselves, this dog may dig under the fence and then be gone! When you bring your Pug outside to exercise or for housebreaking, do so with that intent only. Distraction Dog Training Techniques If the Pug begins to dig and then is offered the choice of: digging or a fun, new dog toy...the dog will usually choose the toy. While it may not be viable to

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purchase a new toy every day, there are some things that an owner can do: Alternate toys. Most owners will have compiled enough dog toys that these can be divided up into 3 or 4 groups. Only 1 group of toys should be made available every 2 weeks. If the dog begins to dig, he can be easily distracted with a toy from a group that is not in use that week. Finding the toy of interest, the dog will usually stop digging to investigate the "new" dog toy. Dog toys that require a dog to interact in order to achieve a result works wonders. Widely available in pet supply stores, both online and off, are dog toys that have a small opening in which to hide a yummy dog treat. Smelling the hidden surprise inside, many dogs will keep themselves entertained for hours in an effort to retrieve the treat. Distraction may also be done by enticing the dog into play. A quick distraction of 5 to 10 minutes of play time can make the Pug forget whey they were digging in the first place. Whether distracting with toys or play time, this dog should be rewarded each time they stop digging and do something else in its place. If you enjoy digging yourself (if you like to garden!) and spend a lot of time gardeningâ&#x20AC;Ś you may wish to then allow your Pug to have their own spot to dig while you are! You may wish to obtain a sandbox just for your Pug. In this way; you can both be outside, enjoying the day and digging away! Reward Nothing teaches a dog faster than a reward for good behavior. Dogs who are yelled at for unaccepted behavior struggle to learn concepts. Dogs who are given praise for good behavior, quickly learn what is expected and love to please their owners. If your Pug is digging and you command an authoritative and firm "NO" and the dog stops digging, offer great praise, hugs, kisses, pats and a small dog treat. Then be sure to offer a dog toy (as described above) as an alternative to the digging fun. The Pug is a companion dog. The Pug is fun-loving, aiming to please and has a wonderful personality. A dog cannot do what he is not trained to do. Once this dog is shown that digging is not wanted and they receive attention, rewards and praise for not digging...the Pug will aim to please those that matter to them the most: their human family members.

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Chapter 55: Your Pug & Your Baby Overview

Your Pug is used to being the “baby” in the home and if you are expecting a human baby, this will be a big adjustment for everyone. However, by implementing training both before and after your new arrival, everything can run very smoothly. Those who have issues with their dog and baby are usually those who did not plan ahead of time.

Preparation As soon as you learn that you will be expecting a baby, training should begin for your Pug; this will ensure that your Pug has plenty of time to become accustomed changes. Some of the changes will be: The layout of the home Those wonderful new scents of a baby Your Pug‟s schedule, as you may need to rearrange daily activities around the new baby. Basic Commands Things will run much smoother if your Pug understands and always listens to basic commands. You will want your Pug to immediately: Sit, Stay and Heel on command. If your Pug has not yet mastered these commands, begin training right away. Instructions for training these commands begin in our Training Chapter here. Before Baby Arrives There is much to help your Pug become accustomed to! So it is best to begin right away. You can help your Pug become used to the scents of your new baby by taking some baby powder and rubbing it into the carpet, soft, wash cloth etc. and allowing your Pug to become very familiar with the scent. If you have a baby mobile or other baby toys that make noise, it will help to sit down with your Pug and have your dog hear these noises. With months of hearing twinkling baby songs, this will not be surprising one bit when your baby arrives. If you believe that you will be changing the layout of your home, do this as soon as possible. Dogs love consistency. If a baby highchair is going to be in the spot where their dog food once was and their dog food is going to be moved to another corner in the kitchen…make this change now. 166 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

If your Pug balks at the idea of having his food moved and you absolutely must change the location of his dishes, you can try to do this slowly. Each day you can move the food dish and water bowl a few inches. After a while, you will reach your goal! Some owners have found that playing recordings of a crying baby was extremely helpful in helping shy or nervous Pugs who they feared may be afraid of the loud crying noises a baby can make. You can do this by “borrowing” a friend, neighbor‟s or family member‟s baby! Just ask permission to record the baby for a while. Most babies will let out some cries during a recording session. You can then play this recording for your Pug… at first on a very quiet setting…talking to your Pug in a soothing voice and patting your dog while they hear the crying. As your Pug becomes used to the noise, you can then play it louder each week. You will reach the point of being able to play the recording at the natural volume and your Pug should become accustomed to it. Before bringing your baby home from the hospital, send home a blanket or gown that the baby has been wrapped in. This will get your dog used to your baby's particular scent.

Toys Your Pug will have no idea of the difference between their toys and the baby‟s toys unless you show this to your dog. It is best to choose a designated area for your Pug‟s toys and if possible, a designated area for your baby‟s toys. Spend months showing your Pug which toys they are allowed to play with and which they are not allowed to touch. This is very important; as you would not want your Pug thinking the baby is playing with “his” or “her” toy and grab it from the baby‟s hands. Each time your Pug goes over to the baby‟s toys, clap your hands loudly and then immediately give your Pug one of their own toys. Done in this way, you are not reprimanding your dog for being curious, but you are distracting your Pug and then showing him or her what is appropriate to play with. Be sure to end this by patting your Pug and giving words of praise to show that you are proud of them.

Only a Certain Amount of Time Even the best parents in the world (of both babies and Pug‟s) cannot be in 2 places at once. With the arrival of a baby, there will be times when your Pug cannot receive the same amount of attention that they were once used to. It is best to make this change before the arrival of the baby and not afterward when your Pug may become jealous. If the main caretaker of the baby is the main caretaker of the Pug, try to have another household member begin taking your 167 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Pug for walks, feeding them, grooming them, etc. Done in slow, steady steps, this will allow your Pug plenty of time to become used to receiving care from another human family member…leaving you to care for the baby .

After the Baby Arrives Associate the baby's presence with positive things. Give your Pug dog treats and lavish praise for desired behavior around the baby. Do not place the baby on the floor with the dog and never shout at dog for approaching your baby incorrectly. Gently show the dog what you wish him/her to do and offer a reward for responding. Due to the fact the a baby's immune system is not strong, ensure that your dog is healthy and is up to date with worming and vaccinations before baby arrives.

Jealousy Even with very careful planning, months in advance, some Pugs may be a bit jealous or become “clingy” to you once the baby is home. It is best to continue on with your planned schedule and follow the guidelines above. If your Pug is extremely clingy, do acknowledge them by giving a quick pat and then do what you must to care for your baby. If you are sitting on the sofa feeding your baby, you can also have your Pug laying close to you to cuddle. When you take the baby for a walk in the stroller, you can take your Pug along as well. In time, your Pug will become used to having a little brother or sister.

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Chapter 56: Stress & Compulsive Behavior

Dogs can experience stress in much the same way that humans do.

Your Pug

can be stressed by: Moving to a new home The addition of a new family member A change in routine Fear (of an owner‟s angry voice, loud noises… just about anything) Even after the stressors have been removed, the effects of this stress can stay for a long time if the dog is not helped.

Signs of Stress in Dogs Stress causes the release of adrenaline and other chemicals within the dog‟s body which elevates blood sugar levels and blood pressure and increases the workload of the heart and lungs. As the body quickly funnels all energy toward the “fight or flight” response, blood vessels constrict and other systems, such as digestive and immune are inhibited. Levels of the stress hormone, cortisol, climb and may remain elevated for a long time, even after the stressors are removed. Signs of stress may include: Barking Compulsive Licking Digging Drooling Trembling Pacing Whining Panting (may lead to increased thirst) Dark eyes due to pupil dilation Urine marking Difficulties or relapse in housetraining Diarrhea Vomiting Loss of appetite Destructive chewing Aggression

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Reducing Stress The 1st step is to rule out any health issue; therefore your Pug must have a full & complete medical checkup. If your dog is deemed 100% healthy, you can then begin to work on helping him or her with their stress. Since a dog‟s body is not equipped to handle the „fight or flight‟ response long term. Unresolved stress can lead to behavioral problems and health problems. There are ways to help him overcome his unpleasant feelings: Keep surroundings calm until he feels better. Do not blare the TV or stereo on a high volume, keep foot traffic in the house under control, do not allow yelling or screaming in the home. Offer extra attention – studies show that gentle human touch lowers blood pressure and heart rate in dogs. Find time to sit, relax and just calmly pat your Pug. Provide soothing music – recent studies indicate that certain music such as harp notes calms dogs and other animals. Put the music at a low level and play this throughout the day. Provide chew toys – this is great stress relief, much like eating, smoking and nail biting provide stress relief for some humans. Provide a den or „safe place‟ where your Pug can retreat – this should be a place where nothing bad ever happens, a place where he feels secure. This should be in a very quiet corner of the home, but not isolated from the family. The corner of the kitchen or living room is a good place. Inside of this “den” (which will be a doggie bed, crate or other) have some good chew toys, a soft cozy baby blanket and any items that your Pug loves. Provide daily exercise - a nice walk or game of fetch can be one of the best stress busters. A good jog outside will not only relieve your Pug‟s stress but also make him or her tired when you get home, and they can enjoy a nice nap. Give your dog a daily massage – work out muscle stiffness and induce relaxation. As you at your Pug, kneed their muscles gently to help them feel better Offer extra kindness and patience - remember he can't help his feelings. Talk in a happy, calm voice. Do not show anger in front of your Pug. It is your voice and actions which will play an important role in keeping your Pug stress-free. 170 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

If a move to a new home caused the stress, be sure to: Always keep their items in the same spot. For example if their food was in the right corner of the kitchen in the old home, put it in the right corner of the new home. If their dog bed was in your old bedroom, put it in your new bedroom. Keep the same routine. The walking route may be different, but if you used to go for walks at 8 AM at the old home, do this at the new home. If you Pug is licking themselves compulsively (most often the paws): Distract them, put up a ball or Frisbee and act excited to encourage them to play with you. And most of all, follow the above advice to reduce your dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s stress.

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Chapter 57: Pug Breathing Issues

Pugs make lots of weird noises, due to their small nose and flat face. Many Pugs make a grunting nasal noise, which increases when they get excited. Many will snore. Pugs are among the breed type veterinarians refer to as brachycephalic, a Greek name for â&#x20AC;&#x153;short headâ&#x20AC;?. These dogs were bred to accentuate their short stout faces; their nose and lower jaw are greatly reduced. Along with bulging eyes and crowded teeth, brachycephalics have a respiratory syndrome due to abnormal face and airway confirmation; this includes the nose, pharynx, larynx and trachea. The normal canine nose has an outer soft nose and a nasal cavity with mucosal folds that trap incoming debris. The normal mouth contains the tongue, hard palate and soft palate. In a brachycephalic dog such as the Pug, these upper airway structures are often larger than normal and are forced to fit into an extremely compact area. The lack of space leads to compression and anomalies of the airway. Due to the abnormal anatomy of the face, Pugs can suffer from multiple structural problems that make breathing difficult. The openings of the nose are often constricted, and inside the nose the bony and soft tissue folds fill the small space. Also the tongue is overwhelmingly large and the soft pallet is elongated and exaggerated. In addition the larynx, or opening to the trachea can become swollen from the constant trauma of forced breathing. Once this occurs the larynx struggles to open fully during breathing. Also, the trachea may be smaller in diameter than normal. The end result is anything from a slightly narrow airway to complete obstruction. People have become accustomed to brachycephalic dogs snorting and snoring and we start to identify this as normal for the breed. However, loud snoring, exercise intolerance, interrupted breathing patterns, chronic vomiting, increase respiratory effort, mouth breathing and collapsing are not normal for any breed. If you Pug shows any of these severe symptoms, a vet check is in order. Ahead, you will find more detailed information on Pug health issues.

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Chapter 58: Vomiting

Infrequent episodes of vomiting in dogs are normal, and usually is nature‟s way of ridding the body of an unwanted food or foreign objects the dog may have ate. While nausea occasionally may not be an indication of a serious illness, any occurrence of repeated vomiting can be a sign that something is wrong.

Acute Vomiting An occasional bout of vomiting is not automatically a symptom of a major medical problem in dogs. A sudden change in the type of food, giving an unfamiliar treat, or feeding table scraps can cause your Pug to have a bout of diarrhea or vomiting. An upset stomach caused by food changes can often be resolved at home, as long as the vomiting is not extreme and your Pug continues to act and feel normally. Withholding dog food for 24 hours will allow your Pug‟s digestive system to settle down. During this time, it is very important to offer your Pug water at all times, as a Pug can very quickly become dehydrated. After 24 hours, small amounts of a bland diet, such as white rice and boiled, deboned white chicken meat, can be given. If the upset goes away, you can gradually bring your Pug to their normal food. Eating too quickly, especially dry food can frequently result in vomiting shortly after a meal. If your Pug gobbles their food so quickly that they are making themselves ill, you can: Give them a meal a bit at a time Feed smaller meals throughout the day (We do recommended scheduled feeding, but in the case of a dog eating so fast that they vomit, we do then suggest splitting up meals) Mixing dry food with wet - Dry food will absorb the moisture in the dog‟s stomach after it is eaten. It then expands in size and can cause a Pug to vomit. Adding some plain chicken broth to dry food to offering a mix of ¾ dry to ¼ wet dog food can help. Parasites may be the cause of nausea in dogs, especially puppies. Roundworms can be ingested from the soil, and puppies sometimes can have worms passed on to them from their mother. As the eggs hatch in the dog‟s intestine, the larva is then carried to the lungs via the bloodstream. From the lungs, the worms then crawl up the windpipe and cause gagging and coughing, before returning to the intestine to grow into adults. Roundworms can grow to up to seven inches long and appear spaghetti-like, long and thin. 173 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Some of the signs of roundworms are when a Pug has a swollen tummy, is not growing as they should and their coat becomes dry and dull looking. Although diarrhea is the most common sign, in severe cases puppies may actually vomit large quantities of live worms. If allowed to continue unchecked, the worms can cause pneumonia, intestinal obstructions and can even be fatal. Another possible cause is Giardia which is an intestinal parasite that lives in the intestines of infected animals. Current research has shown that Giardia is present in up to 11% of the general population of pets, and as many as 50% of puppies. Giardia can be transmitted from pet to pet, through contaminated feed or water, and through the soil. Pets who spend time at dog parks, doggy day care or are kenneled are at higher risk for infection. The most common symptom of Giardia is diarrhea and vomiting. However, many animals who are infected with Giardia can show no symptoms for long periods of time, which makes scheduled testing very important. Coccidia is one more organism that infects the small intestine of dogs. Dogs with coccidia may show no signs of illness, and some may have severe bouts of watery stools and bloody diarrhea, vomiting, depression and fever, and left untreated, this can be fatal due to dehydration.

Sudden, repeated vomiting- Emergency Situation Sometimes a Pug will get into things that they shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x;t. They may eat things out of the garbage, in the yard, plants, etc, and this may the cause of sudden vomiting. Most times, withholding food and letting the dog naturally expel the unwanted substances will be the answer. However, eating something that may cause an obstruction in the stomach is serious, and any Pug that has eaten a large amount of something, even if it is seemingly harmless, should be monitored for abdominal pain, weakness or increasing episodes of vomiting. This intestinal blockage quickly becomes an emergency situation. A partial blockage in the intestines may produce: Vomiting Diarrhea Pain A complete blockage will cause: Extreme tummy pain Bloating Repeated, frantic, projectile vomiting. Fecal-like mater may be vomited, while in other circumstances the vomit may be only bile. With blockage issues this severe, immediate treatment is absolutely necessary.

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In addition, many houseplants are toxic, as of course, chemicals are as well. Try to identify what your Pug ate. If you are uncertain if it is a toxic substance, call your vet immediately.

Treatment of Vomiting Treatment of acute vomiting in dogs is intended to diagnose the underlying problem and give treatment as needed. After a complete exam, your veterinarian may recommend: Fecal testing- a sample of stool will be obtained, and checked for evidence of parasites such as roundworms and coccidia. In addition, an antigen test may be run on the fecal sample to check for the presence of Giardia. Blood tests- Blood tests will give your vet a reading as to the basic health of your dogs major organs such as the kidneys and liver. X-rays- x-rays of your Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s abdomen may be recommended to rule out potential intestinal obstructions, or foreign bodies that your dog may have ingested. If xrays suggest a possible problem, surgery may be recommended, or follow-up xrays at several intervals may be taken to ensure a foreign object is effectively moving through the intestinal tract. Hospitalization- Depending on the outcome of the above tests, and your Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s physical condition, your veterinarian may recommend hospitalizing your dog to diagnose and treat the cause of vomiting. IV fluids may be administered to correct dehydration. Several medications are available to treat nausea and vomiting in dogs, and these may be given to help.

Chronic Vomiting Vomiting that occurs on a seemingly otherwise health dogs more than once a week is considered chronic. Because chronic vomiting can lead to poor digestion and absorption of nutrients, often dogs will be finicky eaters, be very weak and their coat will become very dull and dry. Food allergies and intolerances are a common cause of chronic vomiting. Pugs may have or develop allergies or sensitivities to variety of ingredients in dog food, leading to chronic inflammation in the stomach and intestinal tract. Pancreatitis can present in dogs in both an acute form, as well as a chronic problem. Pancreatitis, or inflammation of the pancreas, can cause digestive enzymes to decrease, and in severe cases the enzymes may begin to digest the actual organs of the dog instead of the food. The symptoms are quite similar to many other health issues and it is your veterinarian who can run tests to make a diagnosis.

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Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD) can also be a cause of chronic diarrhea in dogs. When this happens, the Pug‟s the intestine is taken over by inflammatory cells, eventually leading to scar tissue throughout the lining of the digestive system. Although the exact cause of IBD is unknown, nutrition, genetics and the immune system are thought to play a role in its development. Dogs with a long history of chronic vomiting, diarrhea or weight loss that have been found to be free of parasites and other obvious causes should be considered for IBD. An intestinal biopsy is usually done to confirm IBD. Treatment is medication to reduce swelling and changes to the Pug‟s diet to help make food more easily digested.

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Chapter 59: Spaying and Neutering What is Spaying and Neutering?

With a female Pug, spaying refers to when the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s uterus and the ovaries are surgically removed. For the male Pug, neutering means that the testicles are surgically removed.

Why is This Done? It is a common mistaken belief that this is only done to stop dogs from mating. While this is one of the end results, there are also other important ways in which this will help your Pug live a healthier and longer life. When a female Pug is spayed, the benefits to the dog include: Eliminating her chances of developing ovarian and greatly reducing her chances for developing mammary cancer. This will also decrease her odds of developing ovarian infections. Stopping the chance of an older female from having a litter of puppies. Past the age of 8, the strain of carrying pups is extreme and very unhealthy for the female dog. When a male Pug is neutered, the benefits to the dog include: Eliminating the possibility of testicular tumors Greatly reducing the possibility of infections Reducing the risk of prostate disease â&#x20AC;&#x201C; This is a very common and serious health issue for the male Pug. Roughly 60% of male dogs, who are older than 5 years old and not neutered, show symptoms of an enlarged prostate.

Sorting out the Facts Neutering a dog will make him depressed, lose strength and decrease his activity level = Not True Studies have shown that male dogs do not act out any mating behavior unless they are moved by their own hormones in reaction to a female dog who is in heat. When neutered, it does not trouble a dog that he cannot mate. When a male dog is neutered, his body can then use its energy for other things besides mating, including endurance and strength. A male dog will be just as good of a "watch dog" and behave normally in all regards of activity and strength to exercise. A female dog will become overweight and/or lazy = Not True

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When given the appropriate amount of food and exercised properly, a female dog will not become overweight or lazy. This does not affect the activity level of a dog.

What Age is This Done? The younger a dog is when this is done, the better it is for their health. Studies show that a femaleâ&#x20AC;&#x;s best chance of good health is to be spayed before her first heat. There is no benefit for a female dog to go through even 1 heat cycle. The odds of developing mammary cancer increase even if the dog goes through 1 heat and increases as each heat cycle is allowed to happen. To offer her the best chance, a female Pug should be spayed at the age of 4 to 5 months old. However, even if an owner waits, having this done at any age will help to increase the life span of the dogs.

How is the Procedure Done? Spaying female dogs is done by giving the dog general anesthesia. A small incision is made in the dog's abdomen. The uterus is then removed from that small incision. The ovarian ligaments and blood vessels are securely tied. The abdominal tissues are stitched back together in layers internally. Outside (external) stitches are not always needed. Neutering a male dog is performed by making an incision in front of the dog's scrotum. The testicles are then removed through this small incision. The blood vessels are tied off and cut. The incision will have either have stitches that dissolve or ones which will need to be removed 10 days after the surgery.

What is the Recovery Time? For both female and male dogs, water should not be given for 1 hour after the procedure. For the male Pug, there is usually swelling for about 3 days. There may be some light bruising. Discomfort is usually low and most dogs do not need pain medication. The majority of male dogs are ready to play, exercise and run around as normal every just days later; however to make sure that the incision heals correctly, it is recommended to limit these activities for 2 weeks. For the female Pug, it is important that she be allowed to completely rest for 10 days. If she shows any signs of vomiting, tremors, pale gum or bleeding, this indicates a complications and the dog should be brought to the veterinarian immediately. This is, however, rare. A female dog may try to lick her stitches and this can cause infection; therefore steps may be taken to prevent her from

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doing so. In about 2 weeks, she will have a checkup to make sure all is well and stitches will be removed at that time.

Spaying/ Neutering Senior Dogs Some owners to not see the point of spaying or neutering an older, senior dog. However, doing so greatly helps to extend the life of the dog. There are several reasons why: A female may have heat cycles for her entire life. With most dogs, this does not stop as it does with humans. Having puppies in the senior years can be very dangerous for both female dog and impending puppies. Spaying significantly reduces the possibility of developing mammary cancer and eliminates the chances of ovarian cancer as well as uterine infections. Infections are very common in older dogs and can often be life-threatening. Therefore, having this done, even to a senior dog, can be very helpful in allowing them to live as long as possible. When a female dog is spayed, this reduces hormone changes in her body. These changes can affect other health conditions a dog may have including diabetes and epilepsy. . For the male Pug, neutering a senior dog eliminates the possibility of developing testicular tumors, infections and reduces the risk of canine prostate disease. These are all canine health issues in which the chances of developing them increase as time go by.

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Chapter 60: Daily Checklist Overview

Catching

any health issues in the early stages will give your Pug the best chance for recovery. It only takes a few minutes each day to look over your Pug for any signs of possible health issues. You can make this part of your schedule, by doing this at each grooming time or each bath time. It is recommended to look at these elements 1 time per day. However 1 time per week is better than not doing this at all. Temperature: Changes in body temperature can make a dog ill. They body temperature of a dog is different than that of a human. With many health issues, a fever will be a symptom. If not checking daily or weekly, you will at the very least want to know how to check your Pug‟s temperature if you suspect a health issue. The temperature of a dog is checked in the same way as a human baby; with a lubricated thermometer gently placed ½ inch into the puppy‟s anus. You can use petroleum jelly for the lubrication. Have your Pug lay down and with one person gently holding them and patting them, another should insert the thermometer. Of course, take care not insert this too deeply. The normal body temperature of a Pug is between 101 and 102 degrees Fahrenheit (38.3 to 38.8 Celsius). Any abnormal changes in your Pug can be a sign of illness and you should take your dog to the veterinary doctor right away. Eyes: The eyes of a Pug dog are very important and can show you that something is wrong. A slight, watery discharge is normal. However, if your Pug has a very thick discharge, this is usually a sign of illness and should be taken care of by a veterinarian as soon as possible. If your Pug has an unusual reddish color in his/her eyes that is also a sign of illness. When a dog ages it develops a cloudiness of the eye lens, which unfortunately can lead to blindness, but can be avoided with proper care and treatment to any early stage problems. Mammary tissue (females): Check for swelling and report this to a vet Testicles

(males):

Check

for

swelling

and

report

this

vet

Nose: Check for abnormal discharge from the nose. An older Pug can develop crust and/or cracks on its nose and you should seek treatment for this. It is normal for the color of a dog's nose to change over a period of time. Ears: Odor coming from your pet Pug ears is a major sign of sickness.

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Breathing: Bad breath from a dog can be a sign of looming illness and you should have it checked out by your vet. Normal breathing is very important; this assures you that your pet is in normal condition. Abnormal breathing is a sign of illness. Breathing problems become more regular as dogs age, so check for unnecessary panting or wheezing. Activity: Any time that your Pug shows a different activity level than normal, this should cause you to take notice. If a normally very active dog suddenly wants to lie down and rest or sleep all day, this is usually not normal. It should be noted that as a dog ages, the senior dog will rest more than when they were a puppy. However, if your usually active Pug becomes: Weak Tired Very sleepy Reluctant to go for normal walksâ&#x20AC;Ś.do be sure to have your Pug looked at.

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Chapter 61: Your Pug’s Paws Overview

Some Pug owners think of dog paws as being tough, strong and in a way, like shoes for the dog! However, this is not true. What is a dog‟s paw made of? The paw contains mostly Keratin, which is an exceptionally thick protein. However, this is a type of skin. This skin is tough skin; but it is still only skin. When our Pug is walking around on sand, rough surfaces, hot surfaces, snow and more, we must think about how it would feel if we were walking barefoot all the time! While a Pug‟s paw is thicker and more durable than our human bare feet, a dog is still walking on their bare “paws”. It is important to: Know how to care for an injured paw Keep paws healthy Know about the specific canine paw diseases a Pug could develop

The Thickness of a Pug’s Paw The surface that a Pug walks on will have the greatest effect to the health of the dog‟s paws. If you wish to take your Pug on hikes over rocky terrain or greatly increase their activity level, do keep in mind that over time, the paws of your Pug will usually adjust and thicken in reaction to the change. This does take some time and will be a gradual increase in the thickness of the paws. The Keratin which is the main component of a dog‟s paw can strengthen with time.

Not as Tough As You May Think Your Pug‟s paws are not as tough as you may think. It is an “old wives‟ tale” that a dog‟s paw is tough enough to withstand just about anything and is not affected by temperature. Many things may be painful to your Pug‟s paws, including: Hot pavement – you will usually not notice just how hot the street, sidewalk or drive will get because you will usually have shoes on Small rocks and pebbles – these can get stuck inside the cracks of a Pug‟s paw or scratch the paw

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Winter elements such as snow, ice and road salt can be harmful to a dog‟s paws Bee or wasps can easily sting the bottom of a Pug‟s paw Infection and disease

Signs & Treatment of Paw Issues Burns from hot pavement, cuts from rocks, irritation from rock salt or the pain of a bee sting can all cause tenderness and all can cause infection to your Pug‟s paws if not treated. Signs that something is wrong with your Pug‟s paws: Any swelling – this can be the entire paw or a portion of the paw Bleeding Secretions coming from a crack in the dog‟s paw Blisters Limping The Pug chewing on the paw The Pug licking the paw Odor

Treatment for Sores & Other Injuries of the Paw If the injury is moderate to severe, it is important to bring your Pug to the veterinarian so that antibiotics can be prescribed to prevent infection of the dog‟s paw/s. Dog paw lotion can be purchased without a prescription – this will condition the dog‟s paw to sooth the skin and help the paw heal Paw wax can be purchased without a prescription – this softens the dog‟s paw. Many Pug owners find this dog paw wax also helps dog‟s who slip on waxed floors. For moderate to severe injury, the dog should have a bandage applied and on top of that, a dog bootie. This will prevent your Pug from trying to remove the bandage. Your dog may feel more comfortable if you put a pair of dog boots on them, to make them balanced. Any sore or injury on a Pug‟s paw will heal very slowly, because each step a Pug takes pulls on the edges of the healing sore and impede healing.

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Winter Care / Cold Weather Care It is important to know how the cold, snow, ice and rock salt affect the paws of our Pug. These elements can cause cracking, blisters and/or infection to the dog‟s paw. Rock salt (or any chemical used to melt ice and snow) is harmful to a dog‟s paws. These substances will cling to the small hair on the paws. Keep you Pug off these areas when at all possible. If it is unavoidable, be sure to wash their paws as soon as they reenter the home. Even if you do not see any substance, washing is strongly recommended. You will want to do this immediately after coming in the house, before your Pug can lick their paws. These winter chemicals can be toxic to a dog.

Dog Paw Diseases & Serious Health Issues Cracked paws – this can happen because of the irritants listed above or it may happen because of an allergic reaction to something in the home, such as the carpeting or carpet cleaner. Severe cracks should be looked at by the vet. Yeast Infection of the Dog’s Paws - The symptoms of this are: Greasy like substance on the dog‟s paw/s Wax like substance on the dog‟s paw/s A bad odor This canine health issue will be diagnosed with a smear from the dog‟s paw that the vet will then examine. This can be corrected with prescription anti-fungal medication provided by your Pug‟s vet. Zinc Deficiency – if your Pug is lacking zinc in his or her diet, this can affect the dog‟s paws. Symptoms of this are: Cracking An odor Your Pug‟s veterinarian will diagnosis these possibilities with a skin biopsy and by careful examination of your Pug‟s diet, age and medical history. Zinc dog supplements will correct this. 184 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Allergies – If other issues are ruled out, allergies will then be the most likely cause of paw problems. Skin or blood testing can check for dog allergies and in many cases, a dog can be given injections to help their immune system compensate. Steroids will be given in some cases. Nasodigital hyperkeratosis - This is a canine health issue that can affect a dog‟s nose, paws or both. This causes the pads of the dog‟s paw to grow exceptionally large. A biopsy of the skin on your Pug‟s paw will determine if this disease is present. An experienced veterinarian will then be able to trim off excess skin. It is then very important to take care of the dog‟s paws while they heal. Preventive treatment is then done to stop the pads from growing back to abnormal size; this is usually done by soaking the dog‟s paws in a propyleneglycol solution. Auto-immune disease of the skin – this is a somewhat serious canine disease in which the dog‟s immune system goes out of control. The dog‟s system will mistake healthy skin cells for unhealthy ones and begins to attack them. Symptoms are: Sores, usually with a puss-like substance in them Crusty sores, which happens after the puss-like sores break open You may also see signs of this on the dog‟s nose and ears, but not always This is diagnosed with a test sample of the skin of the paw. Treatment is dosing with immune suppressing medication.

Protecting Your Pug’s Paws If your dog walks on road salt, wash off your Pug‟s paws as soon as you enter the home If your Pug gets any mud or dirt on the paws, wash this off also as soon as possible Beware of all surfaces that your Pug walks on – keep your dog on shaded ground when all possible when it is warm or hot outside After taking your Pug for a walk, take a moment to check the paws for any small pebbles, cracks, sores, blisters or bleeding When hiking or walking on rough terrain, stop every now and then to check your Pug‟s paws. Obviously, your dog can‟t tell you that they are starting to burn, crack or become injured. A dog will usually only begin limping once the injury is severe and they can‟t hold the pain any longer Trim any long hairs that hang down on the paw. Some Pug‟s will have hair growing on the bottom of a paw also. It is best if no dog fur is touching the ground when the Pug is standing. Paws that stay wet for long periods of time can cause problems. After baths, time outside in rain or puddles or after swimming… dry off the paws and make sure to get the area in between the toes.

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For dried cracked paws, apply dog paw lotion. Do this when your Pug is eating; they will pay attention to the dog food and not lick off the lotion. By the time your Pug is done eating, the lotion will have been absorbed. For any blisters, sores, cracks or injury be sure to have the veterinarian check them out. Treatment will usually be antibiotics and bandages until the paw heals. If your Pug is stung by a bee or wasp on the paw, be sure to remove the stinger. Never use a tweezers. Use a credit card to scrape the stinger out.

Prevention in the Winter / Cold Weather Before going outside, apply a bit of Vaseline or dog paw wax. This will help to protect your Pug‟s paws in the harsh, winter elements. Doggy boots are a valid method of protecting your Pug‟s paws; whether in the winter or when hiking in the warm weather. Special boots and shoes for dogs are not considered a “trendy” item for spoiled pets…they really do protect a Pug when conditions are extreme.

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Chapter 62: Your Pug’s Nose Overview

There is more to a Pug‟s nose than one may think!

Many dog owners do not think about their dog‟s nose, until there is a health problem. Your Pug‟s nose is just as important to them as our eyes are for us. It is predicted that a Pug can recognize smells approximately between 5000 times better than humans can. It is important to understand what is normal and what is not normal with your Pug‟s nose. Spotting any health issues in early stages is the best way to ensure fast recovery. There are many important elements to a Pug‟s nose, such as: Moisture Temperature Discharge Sneezing Color changes Cracks in the nose Crusting issues Dog nose diseases

Moisture A dog‟s nose is normally moist. This is because the nose attracts moisture molecules from the air, ground and other elements. A dog will also lick its nose to keep it moist. Inside a Pug‟s nose, there is also a lot of moisture. Compared to a human, a Pug has about 10 times the amount of nasal membranes which hold nasal mucus.

Temperature A dog's nose is usually cool and moist, but a warm, dry nose is not always a reason for concern. A warm, dry dog nose can be a problem only if there are other characteristics associated with it, such as cracked skin, scabs or open sores with changes in the color of the nose.

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Sunburns Dogs can also be prone to sunburn on their noses which can lead to skin cancer. If you are to have your Pug outside for any longer than 1 hour, it is always suggested to put sunscreen on the dog‟s nose and tummy. Sunburn on the nose can cause blistering. If blisters do appear, you should bring your Pug to the veterinarian so that lotion and antibiotics can be prescribed.

Discharge Pugs do not get colds, nor does any other dog breed. However dogs can get: Sinus Infections Lung Infections Bacterial Rhinitis Kennel Cough Distemper Other medical issues that will make it seem as if your Pug has a cold It is normal for a Pug to have a very mild runny nose at times. Many owners do not even notice this, as the dog may lick its nose before anyone sees it. However, it is not normal for a Pug to have a full runny nose. This is a symptom of a medical issue.

Sneezing One sneeze is fine. 50 are not. If your Pug in continually sneezing, it is time to bring your dog to the veterinarian. If your Pug sneezes this may be from: Allergies A nasal tumor A foreign object has gotten stuck in your Pug‟s nose - A Pug owner should not try to remove any foreign object, as the inside of a Pug‟s nose is very sensitive and damage could be done. It is best to have a vet take a look; he may need to sedate the dog to properly remove the object. If the object has caused moderate to severe irritation or swelling, antibiotics will be prescribed.

Color Change Many owners ask if it is normal for their Pug‟s nose to change color. The answer is yes, although some of this is preventable. The nose of your Pug may change color because of: Eating dog food from a plastic dog dish or drinking water from a plastic dog bowl. Oddly enough, there is quite often a reaction that happens with many types of plastics & dog foods. This can then cause a color change

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on the Pug‟s nose. In some cases, this allergic reaction will also cause the dog‟s lips to become swollen. If you suspect this, it is highly suggested to obtain stainless steel dog bowls for both dog food and for water for your Pug. The sun. Long exposure to sunlight can cause pigmentation change. It is always suggested to apply a bit of sunscreen on your Pug‟s nose (and belly) before spending a lot of time in the sun.

Cracks in a Pug’s nose When a Pug has a cracked nose, this is usually caused because of dry skin. The skin on a Pug‟s nose can dry out because of: Cold weather Low humidity in the air (inside or outside) This usually happens in the winter time and for that reason, this is sometimes called: Snow nose Winter nose When the dog‟s nose is exposed to these conditions, the top layer of skin will peel off and you will see cracks in the dog‟s nose. If a layer does come off, you will see a pink color underneath. When pink skin is showing, it is important to use sunscreen at all times that the dog is outside, even on cloudy days. To help the cracked nose heal: Apply Petroleum Jelly several times each day Chapstick may be applied as a good alternative. Many dog owners find that this stays on longer and the dog cannot wipe it off as easily. If the cracks do not improve after 1 week, it is time to take your Pug to the vet for a checkup. There are is a vast array of canine diseases that can show symptoms of a dry and/or cracked nose. Testing will need to be done to check for them. Among them is an abnormal thyroid level, which can be diagnosed with a blood test.

Crusting Issues If your Pug has a buildup of crust on the nose with or without a fluid discharge, this is a medical condition which requires treatment from the veterinarian. This is medically called Nasal Solar Dermatitis and commonly known as Collie Nose. Without treatment, the crusting can turn into cracking, bleeding and problems breathing. With still no treatment, a dog can develop cancer. This will be diagnosed and confirmed with a small skin biopsy. This is caused by a dog having an allergic reaction to the sunlight, therefore applying sunscreen

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when this health issue first develops is the best step to help a dog‟s nose heal back to normal. In other cases, a fungus infection is the cause and anti-fungal medication will be prescribed.

Dog Nose Diseases and Conditions Vitiligo A dog‟s nose may begin to show white or lighter colored spots from this skin disease. If your Pug does have this, it usually does not develop until a Pug is about 2 years old. This is also called “Pink Nose Syndrome”. Studies are still ongoing for the cause of this canine health issue. Among the theories of what causes this are: Stress, worms, auto-immune disorders. In some cases, a veterinarian will prescribe Corticosteroid cream to be applied to the Pug‟s nose. This condition is not painful and is usually cannot be reversed. It is theorized that not exposing the dog to sunlight for long periods of time may help. Some dog owners, who have dogs with vitiligo, will apply a colored dye to the dog‟s nose before a conformation event. This is not a good idea, as with most dog clubs, you and your Pug may be banned from any future events if you are caught doing this. Most dog owners do not care about white or light spots on their dog‟s nose. However, it is not uncommon for a Pug owner to have the nose “tattooed” by an experienced veterinarian. This is a permanent method to get rid of the lighter skin color and have the dog‟s nose all one color again. Dudley Nose When a dog has a Dudley nose, this is the term used to explain a nose that has 2 separate colorings, such as brown and light tan or black and white. This is not a disease and it is not a health issue. It is simply the coloring of the dog. With a Dudley nose, the dog is usually born with this coloring. Cyclic Depigmentation This is the most common reason for a dog to lose coloring on their nose. This usually happens with adult dogs (over 2 years old) who have black noses. Studies are still being done to try and pin down what causes this. This is not yet treatable. It is highly recommended to put sunscreen on your dog‟s nose, as any white or very light areas will be very prone to a burn.

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Chapter 63: Your Pug’s Eyes Overview

There are eye issues that can affect a Pug more often than some other dog breeds, due to the Pug‟s large and bulging eyes. Spotting the symptoms as soon as possible and getting treatment can mean the difference between a fast recover and debilitating health issues for your Pug.

Cleaning To perform this weekly cleaning, you will want to use a soft wash cloth, moist with warm water. Gently wipe around each eye, paying special attention to any skin folds. For your Pug‟s skin folds in this area, you will want to then use a cotton swab to wipe out any moisture once cleaning is done; if not bacteria can quickly grow...leading into a yeast or fungi infection.

What is Normal? Eyes should be bright and shiny. A bit of eye discharge is normal. You can tell a lot about a dog‟s health by looking at their eyes. The following is a symptom/diagnosis/ treatment list of eye issues that a Pug may develop. This does not mean that a Pug is doomed to have any of these health problems.

Cherry Eye/ Migrating Membrane What is this? The Pug dog, among many animals, has 3 eyelids: the upper, the lower and one that normally rests under the upper lid, out of sight. The 3rd eye lid is rarely seen under normal circumstances. A human would only notice this if lifting up a Pug dog's main eyelid. However, certain canine health conditions can cause this membrane to move location, thus covering the eye either entirely or partially. Many Pug dog owners will become concerned as they describe this as a "film" covering their dog's eye. What are the Symptoms of Cherry Eye in a Pug Dog? Red tissue will be seen on the Pug dog's eyeball. What is the Treatment? Until recently, common veterinary practice would be to remove the 3rd canine eyelid. In current times, surgery can usually be performed to move the

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membrane back into place without having to remove it. There are some rare cases in which the membrane will need to be removed. If so, a Pug dog will need daily eye drops indefinitely. Success rates are very high when this surgery is performed by an experience veterinary surgeon; statically 82% of dogs recover perfectly.

Inflammation/ Uveitis What is this? This is a condition that will affect a Pug's eyes from an array of health issues, causing the eye to become very irritated to the point of needing medical intervention. This can happen when a foreign element comes into contact with or enters the Pug dog's eye or can be a symptom of an underlying canine disease. What are the Symptoms? Extreme blinking/ squinting Large amount of watery discharge Sensitivity to bright lights, both outside or indoors A dulling of the iris (the colored part of the dog‟s eye) or a bluish tint that cover‟s the Pug‟s eye Redness Swelling

What is the Treatment? The veterinarian will look at the Pug dog's eye with a tool that allows him to see the interior of the eyeball. If the cause of the irritation is not clear, blood testing may be done. Quite often, medication is given to the dog. For swelling, antiinflammatory medication will be given. For infection, antibiotics will be given. For pain, eye drops may be given. If an underlying disease is found such as Brucellosis or Lyme disease, those will be treated as well, of course. Very rarely and only in extreme cases will a Pug dog's eye need to be surgically removed.

Dry Eye / Keratoconjunctivitis sicca What is this?

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Dry eye does not sound like a serious aliment; however this condition can cause great discomfort for a Pug dog. There is a natural film that protects a Pug dog's eyes. With this film, the dog's eye is not protected. The eye becomes very dry causing many health problems. This can happen because of many reasons including: an injury to the eye, a dog not receiving proper nutrition, malfunction thyroid, infection, and side effects from medication What are the symptoms? This is sometimes called “Brown Eye”, as the dog‟s eye may develop a brown tinted film A scar tissue may appear on the dog‟s eye A stinging pain is usually constant, as the eye loses all lubrication Blood vessels in the Pug‟s eyes may grow rapidly and spread quickly

What is the Treatment? The Pug dog will be given eye drops to lubricate the eye, swelling and infection will be brought down with medicine and the dog will be given drops to help his body produce natural tears. Surgery may need to be performed by the veterinarian if a tear duct is severely damaged.

Corneal Dystrophy What is this? The cornea is the outside layer of a Pug dog's eye. This condition describes the clouding of the cornea. This is an inherited canine eye disease and will affect both eyes equally. What are the Symptoms? Gray or white crystal-like material will begin to develop on the Pug dog's eyes. In almost every case, both eyes are affected in the same degree. What is the Treatment? As of now, there is no treatment for this canine eye disease. Fortunately, this condition is not painful. While it can affect how clearly a Pug dog can see, it rarely completely blocks a Pug dog's eyesight.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) in Pug Dogs What is this?

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This is a genetic, inherited disease that affects the retina of a dog‟s eyes. Both eyes will be affected at the same time. The dog does not feel any pain. Unfortunately, all Pug dogs with PRA will eventually become blind. What are the Symptoms? Symptoms do vary in Pug dogs with this eye disease, however things look out for are: Night blindness – you will know your dog has this if your Pug dog does not see well at night – your dog may stumble into walls or furniture if the lights are kept low at night, etc. Dilated pupils of the dog‟s eyes Increase shine on the dog‟s eyes

How Long Does Take to Go Blind with PRA? With the PRA eye disease, from the time that symptoms are obvious and the dog is taken to a veterinarian to confirm the disease, it can be anywhere from 6 months to a couple of years for the Pug to become completely blind. How is the Diagnosed? Once a Pug owner notices any of the above symptoms, the dog should immediately have a full and complete eye exam by a board certified veterinary ophthalmologist. Is This Treatable? At this time, this is not treatable. Of course, studies are being done to someday cure this canine eye disease. It is suggested that one action may slow down the process: Antioxidant supplements for retinal health – there are some good signs that this type of dog supplement can slow down the disease. The Pug dog should have regular eye exams, even after losing all sight. Why? Because this disease does not cause pain; but because of PDA cataracts can develop and those can be very painful.

How to Help Your Pug Dog Cope With the Blindness It is amazing just how well a Pug copes with this eye disease. Because the blindness occurs very slowly, over a large span of time, the dog usually does not suffer from the shock of not being able to see. A Pug will have time to slowly adjust to lessened sight. The dog is not in pain.

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When a dog is losing their sight or has become blind, it is important to carry on with your dog‟s normal routine. A dog can still go for walks, play with you, and be a wonderful companion. It is important to not rearrange furniture or move the area in which you keep your dog‟s food and water. In case your dog is ever becomes lost, it is suggested to have a medical alert tag on your dog that relays that he or she is blind.

Pigmentary Keratitis What is this? This is when there is a deposit of pigment (color) on the white surface of the eyes, PK is the result of many factors that either irritate or inflame the cornea. If the factor causing the inflammation or irritation can be identified, PK can be corrected with surgery What are the Symptoms?

The eye becomes discolored as seen here. The beginning sign of pigmentary keratitis is a small dark brown or black spot of pigment toward the inside corners of the white of the eye. The spot spreads gradually, eventually covering the entire eye with a brownish film and blocking the ability to see through it, essentially rendering the dog blind. Diagnosis Diagnosis is by direct exam of the Pug‟s eye/s, cultures, fluorescein staining (a process that allows the veterinarian to look deep into the eye), Schirmer tear testing (to see if the Pug is producing enough tears) and cytology. Treatment

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If the Pug has dry eye (Keratoconjunctivitis sicca), treatment is normally through the use of eyedrops (Cyclosporine or Tacrolimus), given once to multiple times daily. Some vets recommend the use of Pred-Forte, an anti-inflammatory, to arrest and possibly partially reverse the PK. Life-long therapy is often necessary. Surgery is performed if entropion (when the eyelids fold inward) or other defects are involved. For severe cases, a Keratectomy may be performed, which is essentially the peeling off of the top layer of the cornea. As with almost any condition, treatment tends to be more effective with early detection. Consult with a veterinarian that is knowledgeable and experienced with PK, preferably with a veterinary ophthalmologist.

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Chapter 64: Your Pug’s Mouth

When we think about a Pug‟s mouth, the first things that come to mind are eating, barking and chewing. However, there are many elements and issues that relate to a Pug‟s mouth. The health of your dog‟s mouth can relate to the overall health of your Pug. Signs of abnormalities can point to health issues, some which are very serious. Canine mouth issues that are not often talked about, but are very important to know about are: Excessive Drooling Chewing Problems Misaligned Bite Issues Mouth Infections Mouth Cancer

Excessive Drooling Some drooling is normal. A Pug may drool for any number of reasons, not all of the physical due to the shape of the Pug‟s face and mouth. This breed may drool just from the excitement of dinner time. If your Pug is showing signs of excessive drooling, this may be caused by: A salivary cyst Periodontal disease A tongue injury A foreign object caught in your Pug‟s mouth Salivary cysts - This look like large blisters that appear under the dog‟s tongue. If diagnosed with this, often the damaged saliva gland must be removed by your Pug‟s veterinarian. Canine periodontal disease- This can be avoided by brushing your Pug‟s teeth each day and bringing your dog for a full dental checkup 1 time per year or once every 2 years, if you perform scrapping at home Unchecked, this can lead to a lot of pain and tooth loss. If this is spotted once the damage is done, teeth may need to be surgically removed. Left untreated, infection can spread throughout the dog‟s body. Tongue Injury- Wounds can happen from self infliction, rough play with other dogs or by biting down on something they should not. This can cause a Pug to

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have a difficult time eating. A vet checkup is recommended, to ensure that any injury does not become infected. Offering your Pug ice cubes can help while you are waiting for the vet. Foreign Objects- Sticks or other hard objects can cause damage to the Pug‟s mouth and can also crack teeth, especially the molars. If you notice that your Pug is having a hard time eating or seems to be in pain, look in their mouth for any splinters or other materials that you may be able to remove. If removal is difficult, certainly have your dog‟s vet do the procedure. If signs of pain continue after the object is removed, be sure to have your Pug‟s teeth checked for any cracks in the teeth or cuts inside the mouth.

Reluctance to Chew Some dogs develop mouth and tooth issues which keep them from wanting to chew or bite down all of the way. This can be a result of a tooth infection, a tooth root abscess, a fractured tooth or distemper teeth. Root abscesses may be a bit difficult to see. The molars are the teeth that most commonly fracture. There is rare chance that your Pug may have contracted the distemper virus as a puppy, which causes his teeth to look eroded as the dog grows up to be an adult. Any chewing problems = having your Pug examined by the vet to determine the exact cause. Since chewing problems can quickly lead to malnourishment, a checkup should be scheduled as soon as possible. If your dog is suffering from abscesses and/or fractures then this will require root canal work. In the rare chance that there is tooth damage from the distemper virus, those teeth that are damaged will have to be removed by your vet, for the reason that distemper damage is permanent and cannot be reversed.

Misaligned Bite Some Pugs have an undershot jaw or an overshot jaw. When looking at your dog's mouth, the upper and lower teeth should mesh perfectly when he closes his mouth. No action is usually necessary unless the bite misalignment is causing your dog discomfort. Discomfort is most likely to occur with overshot jaws as opposed to undershot. Dog braces are an option. Your vet can fit a removable tool over the upper front teeth and hard palate, this helps to slowly move the dog‟s teeth into proper position.

Mouth infection Infection or inflammation in a Pug‟s mouth is called Stomatitis. This can be caused by:

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Cuts Burns Foreign objects Gum disease Periodontal Disease Kidney failure can cause mouth infections Treatment is 2 fold. The underlying cause is determined and treated. Antibiotics are also usually given, since secondary bacterial infections may occur.

Mouth Cancer This is the 4th most common type of cancer found in Pugs and 6% of all canine cancers are in the dog‟s mouth. There are 2 types: Benign - These do not spread and can usually be successfully removed Malignant – These can grow deeply into the tissues of the Pug‟s mouth and/or spread to the rest of the dog‟s body very quickly Symptoms: Irregular lumps or growths inside the mouth Unusual overgrowth of the gums Bleeding from the mouth or other discharge Sores or white lesions in the mouth Difficulty chewing and/or swallowing Signs of pain This is diagnosed with a variety of testing. There should be a complete blood cell count, chemistry profile, x-rays and biopsy. Treatment Treatment will vary however most often the tumor is removed. In some cases in which the disease has spread parts of the dog‟s mouth and/or jaw may need to be removed. Surprisingly, even when large portions of a Pug‟s jaw are removed, the cosmetics are rather good. Other options will be freezing of the tumor ( known as cryosurgery) or Radiation treatment.

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Chapter 65: Fur Issues Overview

The most common coat issue is when a Pug begins to lose fur. This can send a dog owner into a panic. A Pug may lose fur in patches and cause worry to their owners.

The Age of the Adult Coat The process of a Pug growing in the adult coat and losing the puppy coat is a gradual process. You will usually not see a drastic, sudden change.

What is Normal Hair Loss and What is a Sign of Something Serious Female Pugs may shed more than males, at certain times in her life. The coat of a female Pug may thin out after having puppies. If this happens, it may take up to 6 months for her coat to grow back. When she is in heat, she may lose fur. Stress can also cause this. For both male and female Pugs, it is normal to have a big loss of fur after having anesthetics from operations.

What Causes Hair Loss - Medical Alert - Bring Your Pug to a Vet There are many medical diseases and issues that can cause hair loss for a Pug. If your Pug is losing fur and does not fit into the reasons above for loss of dog fur, you must bring him or her to the veterinarian. One disease that can cause hair loss is alopecia, this is a disease of the coat on dogs that also affects the skin. There are other diseases as well that will cause not only the loss of fur on your dog but cause the dog's remaining fur to appear thin or feel brittle. Some illnesses that cause fur to fall out will also discolor the skin.

Stress When a Pug is under stress, this can cause issues with the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s coat, including a thinning of the coat. Neurodermatitis is a condition in which the Pug will

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compulsively lick their fur to the point of damaging the follicles thus resulting in fur loss. The dog many concentrate on one area of the body or in many areas. This medical condition is thought to be caused by the Pug being overstressed, anxious or overly bored. This is diagnosed by ruling out other medical issues. This is cured by resolving the stresses or boredom that is afflicting the Pug. While behavior training is an option, changing the home environment often solves this fur loss issue.

Allergic Dermatitis Fur loss is a common symptom when a dog has an allergy to an external element. Dog shampoo, conditioner, even the rug cleaner an owner may use is a possible culprit in causing this reaction to the Pug. Not only will the dog suffer from fur loss, there may be red blisters, sores or lesions on the skin as well. Fortunately, this can be quickly corrected once it is determined what is causing the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s reaction. A veterinarian should perform patch testing to find the cause and then the owner must eliminate that element. In moderate to severe cases, antihistamines and/or steroids may be prescribed to help the Pug recover.

Alopecia This fur loss issue is as much of a mystery as is the spontaneous recovery that a Pug will have. Theorized to perhaps be an autoimmune disorder, this will cause patches of fur loss on the dog. In most cases, unlike an allergic reaction, there will be no itching. This usually fixes itself once the dog's body gains enough antibodies to fend off itâ&#x20AC;&#x;s inside attacker and the fur will grow back.

Dermatomyositis This is a rare disorder in which the fur loss actually occurs alongside a negative reaction to sunlight or UV rays. The cause remains unknown; however there is still help available. This condition can be confirmed with a small skin biopsy. Not only will the coat thin, the skin will be affected as well. There may be scabs, sores, redness and irritation. The resolution to helping your Pug recover begins by severely minimizing their exposure to any sunlight, keeping the dog indoors except for elimination times. Prednisone may be given in short and small doses initially, followed by vitamin E. The recovery rate for dogs having this is currently 86%.

Food and Flea Allergies Any dog's fur loss may be explained by a simple allergy to food. Luckily, this is reversible and can be quickly diagnosed. An owner of a Pug should always bring their dog to the veterinarian when any unexplained fur loss occurs; however it will be the owner that will cure the dog in the case of a food allergy. One must begin feeding the Pug only one bland food, such as boiled and de-boned chicken. Every week, a new food is introduced; thus allowing the owner to be

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able

determine

which

element

causing

the

reaction.

Hypothyroidism This condition happens to the Pug when the thyroid begins to slow down and produce a smaller amount of hormones. Before fur loss occurs, the coat may become very dry and hair may break off easily. The under active thyroid may also cause weight gain and weakness. This can be diagnosis when the veterinarian runs thyroid tests. Treatment will be medication, often needed for the rest of the dog's life. Recovery is a progressive process; in most cases the Pug will make a complete recovery.

Ringworm Ringworm can cause a dog to have patches of fur that is missing and in those areas of missing fur will be strange lesions. Despite the name, ringworm rarely causes circle lesions on dogs; the sores will be oddly shaped. Also despite the name, ringworm is a fungi infection and not actually worms. If your Pug has these symptoms, you will want to read about ringworms in the Worm Chapter.

Seasonal Flank Alopecia What this is An disorder which causes seasonally recurrent hair loss on the flanks of the Pug (and some other breeds) and may involve photoperiod changes in melatonin and prolactin hormone production which then affects hair follicles. This condition is not completely understood yet. This happens most commonly to the Pug while young. Symptoms Hair loss on the side of the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s body, usually without swelling will be the major sign. The exposed skin may become darkened. Hair loss usually affects both sides, but can affect one side. Hair loss often occurs between November and March and suddenly re-grows several months later, but with some dogs the amount and duration of hair loss increases with repeated episodes and can become permanent. Diagnosis

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Other diseases are first ruled out via testing at the vetâ&#x20AC;&#x;s. A skin biopsy of affected areas shows dysplastic (abnormally shaped) hair follicles which are filled with keratin and this confirms the diagnosis. Treatment Melatonin can be helpful to induce hair growth in some dogs and is given daily for two or three months until complete hair growth occurs. Restarting melatonin yearly four to six weeks prior to the next episode of anticipated hair loss may prevent it from happening again. Prognosis The prognosis for hair growth is unpredictable. Hair growth can be incomplete and new hairs may be different in color and texture. However, this is a cosmetic disorder which does not affect the dog's quality of life.

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Chapter 66: Allergies Overview

Many dogs suffer from allergies.

The Pug is no exception. Over 20% of dogs have some type of allergy. There are 2 types of allergic reactions that a dog can have: External Internal Without treatment, a dog can have an array of symptoms which can cause great discomfort. Sometimes, the treatment is as easy as making a small change in the environment. However, in some cases, allergies can become so severe that it limits the dog‟s ability to function. Physically symptoms can be very painful. It is for this reason, that one must be aware of the symptoms, causes, preventions, diagnosis and treatment.

Is it External? The first step is to find out if the allergy is external or internal for your dog. External dog allergies will be something outside your Pug that is causing him or her to have an allergic reaction.

The Symptoms of External Dog Allergies The most common symptom of an external dog allergy is itching. A lot of Pug owners wonder why their dog scratches so often. If your Pug clearly does not have fleas, most likely the answer is a dog allergy. An allergy to an external element may cause: Itching – sometimes severe, some dogs may scratch open their skin, thus leading to potential skin infections Fur loss – A dog who is constantly exposed to an element which the dog is allergic to may have patches of fur loss or areas in which the fur is dry and thin

Treatment for External Dog Allergies

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Treatment will be a removal of the element which is causing the Pug to have the allergic reaction. If showing the symptoms above, your dog may also be allergic to: The carpeting in your home - Aside from changing your home from carpeting to hardwood floors, you can help your Pug by laying down blankets for him or her to sit, lay and play upon. The carpet cleaner that is used – Try to use a cleaner that is hypoallergenic and odor free Laundry detergent, which leaves remnants on clothing, sheets and more – There are many hypoallergenic laundry detergents available Dog shampoo, this is actually quite common. It is highly recommended to use a high quality, hypoallergenic dog shampoo and conditioner. Smoke – Not only can a dog be allergic to 2nd hand smoke, a dog just as a human can develop cancer because of it. It is recommended to have any smokers do so outside or in a room that is completely separate from where your Pug wanders. Windows should be opened to air out that room. Air fresheners will only mask the odor and not eliminate the allergy cause. The most common allergy is to fleas. While fleas cause itching, a dog who is allergic will actually be allergic to the saliva of the fleas. For this reason, it is very important to always use free protection for your Pug. If you can actually see fleas, you will want to clean all sheets, blankets, dog beds and such in hot water and dry them on a hot cycle. The house must be treated for fleas with a fogger. Your Pug must be cleansed with a flea shampoo. If your dog has sores, missing or thinning fur, gently rubbing vitamin E oil onto these areas can help your dog heal. Giving your Pug an Omega 3 fatty acid dog supplement can speed up the healing process, as well. Bathing your dog in an oatmeal based dog shampoo can be very soothing Watch for skin irritations that have developed into sores and/or open leaking scabs. This will be a sign that an infection has developed. A veterinarian must treat this with antibiotics.

Is it Internal? The most common internal allergy for dogs is their dog food. There are other elements also, such as a rare allergic reaction to medication.

A shortness of breath Wheezing noises Snoring A discharge of mucus from the Pug‟s mouth or nose Vomiting – a sign that the allergy is a food related one Diarrhea – another sign that your dog is allergic to their dog food or an ingredient in it

Treatment for Dog Food Allergies Vomiting and/or diarrhea should be checked out by the veterinarian to rule out any other medical causes. If it is determined that your dog is having a food allergy, you have 2 options. You may: Switch to a hypoallergenic dog food Home cook food for your Pug Dog food allergies are common and there are plenty of high quality hypoallergenic dog foods available. If you decide to home cook, you will want to begin with very simple dinners, with limited ingredients. Every 2 weeks, you can add a new ingredient and this should help you identify the culprit. Begin with plain, white, boneless, boiled chicken. Each week add one of the following until your dog has a meal that consists of all ingredients: Rice – white or whole wheat Baby carrots Baby peas Green beans A dash of cottage cheese Any home cooked meal should have a full and complete dog food supplement added to it. Adding a 2nd supplement of an Omega 3 fatty acid dog supplement is known to help.

Treatment for Respiratory Allergies Your Pug may be allergic to pollen or environmental elements which are inhaled. For any symptoms that affect the respiratory symptoms such as coughing, sneezing and so forth, it is recommended to: Keep your Pug inside when the lawn is mowed Keep your dog inside during days of high pollen counts, this information is often displayed during weather reports

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Just as with humans, running the air conditioner, having a clean air purifier in the home or running a dehumidifier can greatly help.

Treatment for Severe Cases In severe cases, your dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s veterinarian may prescribe a topical solution to be applied to your Pug. Antihistamines may be prescribed. This medication is known to work in about 30% of all cases and only works when used together with Omega 3 fatty acid supplement and the elimination of the element which is triggering the allergy to the dog. Immunotherapy is used in cases in which the avoidance of the allergy trigger is impossible, if the dog has shown symptoms for approximately 5 months and if other treatments of Omega 3 and antihistamines do not work. The dog then will be given skin tests to check for hypersensitivity. Once a trigger is found, the dog will be injected with altered antigens on a slow and steady basis. These are given either weeks or months apart, depending on the type. This helps the dog become desensitized to the allergic cause and works quite well. Up to 80% of dogs show marked improvement. In more severe cases, steroids may be given. This is given to the dog via injections or by oral form. Injections are usually given to a Pug with anywhere from a 1 week to a 6 month wait between shots. Oral steroids is sometimes preferred because if side effects appears, the oral does can be discontinued and the dog will stop having side effects rather quickly; once an injection is done, it cannot be reversed. Oral steroids for Pugs suffering from allergies are usually given for 3 to 5 days in a row and then evened out, usually every other day. Steroid treatment for dogs with allergies is reserved for very severe cases, in which all other efforts have failed. Why? Because of side effects on the dog. Each dog will react differently; however the most common side effects are weight gain, excessive drinking, increased urination, hyperactivity, panting, diarrhea and/or depression. Yes, Pugs can get depressed. Long term effects can be a drastic change to the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s coat, resulting in very dry coarse fur. The dog may develop skin issues and liver problems.

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Chapter 67: Luxating Patella - Kneecap Dislocation What is this?

The patellar (kneecap) is held together by tendons and tissue. When a Pug puppy has Patellar Luxation, the kneecap slips loose of the normally strong hold. The kneecap of the puppy may slip out and back in again or remain out. If not fixed, this can cause a dog to be lame and have limited or zero motor functions of the legs.

Why Does This Happen? Occasionally it's caused by an injury, but in the absence of such proof, the weak tendons and/or shallow kneecap groove of luxating patella is considered hereditary. This does not mean that every Pug is going to have this!

What are the Symptoms? A Pug may show just 1 or all of the symptoms of this. Also, symptoms may come and go. May puppies let out a loud "Yelp" when the kneecap slips out and then actually continue to walk and play even though the kneecap is out of place. It is usually only when it slips, that the dog is in severe pain. You may also notice: Limping An odd "skipping" walk Avoidance of bending the hind leg

How is This Diagnosed? Your dog's veterinarian will be able to know via X-rays and ultrasound.

4 Types There are four degrees (grades) of luxation: 1. The knee only slips out when the vet manipulates it. 2. The knee luxates occasionally when the Pug is walking or running. He/she may not seem to mind much, or they may yelp, but it usually slides back by itself as they continue moving. Or it can be slipped back manually (the veterinarian may do this or may show you how to do this, if you wish).

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3. The knee luxates frequently and causes chronic lameness. Even when you put it back manually, it doesn't seem to last long. 4. The knee luxates, stays that way, and you can't put it back into its socket. This grade is very rare but does happen sometimes.

How is This Treated? Rest. The first treatment should be to crate or keep your Pug in a small area for a week or two and supervise all activity - no jumping or running. Non-Steriod Medication. Most veterinarians will prescribe a non-steroidal antiinflammatories (like Rimadyl). These will hide the symptoms and may reduce the inflammation, but these will not strengthen or correct the knee. Steroidal anti-inflammatories. These can be damaging to the immune system, and have some side effects. Therefore, this is not always used on the fragile Pug. Surgery. Surgery is done if the dog is in chronic pain.

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Chapter 68: SHLS and Low Thyroid SHLS

This stands for Severe Hair Loss Syndrome.

If diagnosed with this, your Pug will not be in pain, although the fur may or may not grow back. Do be sure to have any fur loss examined by the veterinarian, as there can be many causes and not just SHLS. Other causes range from allergies to skin infections.

Low Thyroid This can be a Pug health concern, it is also known as hypothyroidism. This is the same type of low thyroid condition that humans can develop. No need to be alarmed, but certainly it is a time to bring your Pug to the vet. The Symptoms will be: Baffling weight gain Excessive sleeping Lack of energy A change to the dog‟ coat – usually a drying or thinning of the coat .

Treatment Medication can be given if the balance is severe.

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Chapter 69: Collapsed Trachea What is This?

This is a narrowing of the trachea (windpipe). This can happen because the cartilage rings which hold the trachea soften and collapse. This can happen to small breeds dogs more easily than other breeds. This can also happen If the dog lunges forward or if the owner pulls back too hard on a leash and the trachea rings may collapse. For this reason, it is recommended to walk a Pug with a harness on, as opposed to a dog collar. You will also have more control over your Pug with a harness.

What are the Symptoms? Noisy breathing Gagging Trouble breathing Coughing These symptoms may be more apparent right after the dog has exercised In severe cases, the gums of the Pug may turn blue (due to a loss of air) and the dog may faint

How is This Diagnosed?

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The veterinarian will evaluate the dog and perform X-Rays.

How is This Treated? Treatment usually includes steps to reduce coughing and trauma to the dog's airway. Any irritants such as air freshener and 2nd hand smoke should be kept away from the dog The dog should be kept out of extreme cold temperatures A collar must never be put on a dog with a collapsed trachea; a harness must be used If a Pug is overweight, a low fat diet will be recommended to help the dog lose weight Medication to reduce swelling may be given If it is determined that this is a severe case, surgery should be performed. Prognosis is good after surgery, with the majority of dogs able to breathe normally and go back to an active lifestyle.

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Chapter 70: Hip Dysplasia Overview

This is a common degenerative joint disease seen in dogs, the Pug included. This can be serious and treatment should be sought if you notice the symptoms.

What Hip Dysplasia Exactly Is The hip joint forms the attachment of the hind leg to the body and is a ball and socket joint. The ball portion is the head of the femur while the socket is located on the pelvis. In a normal joint the ball rotates freely within the socket. To facilitate movement the bones are shaped to perfectly match each other, with the socket surrounding the ball. The area where the bones actually touch each other is called the articular surface. It is perfectly smooth and cushioned with a layer of spongy cartilage. In the normal dog, all of these factors work together to cause the joint to function smoothly and with stability. Hip dysplasia results from the abnormal development of the hip joint in a dog. It may or may not affect both right and left sides. Most dogs with hip dysplasia are born with normal hips but due to genetic and possibly other factors, the soft tissues that surround the joint start to develop abnormally as the puppy grows. The most important part of these changes is that the bones are not held in place but actually move apart. The joint capsule and the ligament between the two bones stretch, adding further instability to the joint. As this happens, the articular surfaces of the two bones lose contact with each other. This separation of the two bones within a joint is called subluxation, and this causes the resulting problems we associate with the disease.

The Symptoms Dogs of all ages are subject to the symptoms of hip dysplasia and the resultant osteoarthritis. In severe cases, puppies as young as 5 months will begin to show pain and discomfort during and after vigorous exercise. The condition will worsen until even normal daily activities are painful.

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Without treatment, these dogs may be unable to walk at all by several years of age. In most cases, however, the symptoms do not begin to show until the middle or later years in the dog's life. Dogs may: May walk or run with a wobbly gait Resist movements that require full extension or flexion of the rear legs Run with a 'bunny hopping' gait Show stiffness and pain in the rear legs after exercise or first thing in the morning Most dogs will warm up out of the muscle stiffness with movement and exercise. Some dogs will limp and many will decrease their level of activity. As the condition progresses, the dogs will lose muscle tone and may even need assistance in getting up. Many owners attribute the changes to normal aging but after treatment is initiated, they are shocked to see much more normal and painfree movement return.

Why This Happens Genetics Almost all researchers agree that there is a genetic link involved. If a parent has hip dysplasia, then the puppies are at greater risk for developing hip dysplasia. If you breed two dysplastic dogs, the offspring are much more likely to develop the disease but will not all have the same level of symptoms or even necessarily show any symptoms. The offspring from these dogs will, however, be carriers and the disease may show up in their offspring in later generations. This is why it can be difficult to eradicate the disease from a breed or specific line.

Nutrition Overweight dogs may be more prone to this. Carrying around extra weight will exacerbate degeneration of the joint in a dog with a loose hip. Overweight dogs are therefore at a much higher risk. Another factor that may increase the incidence is rapid growth in a puppy during the ages from three to ten months. There have also been studies looking into protein and calcium levels and their relationship to hip dysplasia.

Exercise Exercise may be another risk factor. It appears that dogs that are genetically susceptible to the disease may have an increased incidence of disease if they over-exercised at a young age.

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How Hip Dysplasia is Diagnosed Diagnosis of hip dysplasia is usually made through the combination of a physical exam and x-rays. OFA: The method used by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) has been the standard for many years. Radiographs are taken by a local veterinarian under specific guidelines and are then submitted to the OFA for evaluation of hip dysplasia and certification of hip status. Since the accuracy of x-rays diagnosis of hip dysplasia using the OFA technique increases after 24 months of age, the OFA requires that the dog be at least two years of age at the time the x-rays are taken. They also recommend that the evaluation should not be performed while a female Pug is in heat. To get the correct measurements and ensure that the muscles are relaxed, the OFA recommends that the dog be anesthetized for the x-rays. The x-rays are reviewed by three radiologists and a consensus score is assigned based on the animal's hip conformation relative to other individuals of the same breed and age. Using a seven point scoring system, hips are scored as normal (excellent, good, fair), borderline dysplastic, or dysplastic (mild, moderate, severe). Dogs with hips scored as borderline or dysplastic are not eligible to receive OFA breeding numbers. PennHIP: The diagnostic method used by the University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program (PennHIP) uses distraction/compression radiographic views to more accurately identify and quantify joint laxity. X-rays of the hip joints are taken with the dog under sedation. Two views are obtained with the hind limbs in neutral position to maximize joint laxity. The amount of luxation will be given a number from 0 to 1. A 0 indicates a very tight joint. A 1 indicates complete luxation with little or no coverage of the femoral head.

How Hip Dysplasia is Treated There are several surgical procedures available depending on the age and the severity of the joint degeneration. Triple Pelvic Osteotomy (TPO): TPO is a procedure used in young dogs usually less than 10 months of age that have x-rays that show severe hip laxity, but have not developed damage to the joints. The procedure involves a realignment of the bones, restoring the weight-bearing surface area and correcting femoral head subluxation. This is a major surgery and is very expensive, but the surgery has been very successful on dogs who meet the requirements.

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Total Hip Replacement: This may be the best surgical option for dogs that have degenerative joint disease as a result of chronic hip dysplasia. Total hip replacement is a procedure that can produce a functionally normal joint, eliminate degenerative changes, and reduce pain. The procedure involves the removal of the existing joint and replacing it with a prosthesis. Femoral Head and Neck Excision: Femoral head and neck excision is a procedure in which the head of the femur is surgically removed and a new joint forms as the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s body naturally repairs itself. This procedure is used in cases where degenerative joint disease has occurred and total hip replacement is not able to be done. The resulting joint that grows will be free from pain and allow the animal to increase its activity, however, full range of motion and joint stability are decreased.

How Hip Dysplasia is Treated Medically Medical management of hip dysplasia has greatly improved in the last several years thanks to the introduction and approval of several new supplements and drugs. However, there are no products on the market that prevent it. With proper diet, exercise, supplements, anti-inflammatories, and pain relief, there can be a decrease of the progression of this, but the looseness in the joint or bony changes will not change significantly. Because of the high cost involved with many surgeries, medical management is many times the only realistic option for many pet owners. For most dogs, veterinarians begin with the first recommendations and work their way down this list as needed to control the pain and inflammation associated with degenerative joint disease.

This includes: Weight Management Exercise Warmth and good sleeping areas Providing a firm, orthopedic foam bed Massage and physical therapy

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Chapter 71: Fleas

How a Pug Gets Fleas

It is usually not the fault of the owner when a dog gets fleas.

Your Pug only needs to have 1 flea jump onto him in order to have a huge flea problem. A flea can jump about 6 feet; therefore you do not have a lot of control if a determined flea wants to jump on your Pug; even with flea prevention it can happen. Fleas are more common during hot weather; however a dog can get infected at any time or weather conditions. Fleas live in all types of places: in yards among the grass, in pools of water, on other animals and in some houses that have pets.

How to Know a Flea is a Flea Unfortunately, if you spot just 1 flea, your Pug officially has fleas. You may also be able to spot what fleas leave behind: Blood. Fleas bite dogs; therefore there will be tiny specks of dried blood on your Pug. You can easily test this by running a damp, white paper towels across your Pug's coat. If you see any small red spots, this is the blood.

Are The Fleas in My Home Also? The answer is most likely yes. You can test this as well. Put on a fresh pair of very clean white socks and walk heavily across a room. The fleas will jump onto your socks. Once you have made several passes back and forth across a room, look carefully at the socks. Are there small black specks on them? If so, the room has fleas. The good news is that there is a process to fix all of this and there are prevention methods to take so that this does not happen again.

Can My Pug Be Allergic to the Fleas?

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Yes. Oddly enough, the element that most dogs are allergic to is the saliva of the fleas; despite their size. If your Pug is allergic to the fleas, it will show as a skin rash or irritation.

Are Fleas Dangerous? Yes. Aside from your Pug possibly being allergic to the flea saliva, fleas can also give your dog tapeworms. Tapeworms find their way to your dog's intestines, settle in and begin to grow. You may not realize that your Pug has these until you bring your dog in for a regular vet check up and a stool sample is tested.

What to do if Your Pug Has Fleas There are several things that you must do when your Pug has fleas. The fleas must be removed from your Pug with a special flea comb. This can be done while you have your dog in the bath (or sink). You will comb through his or her coat, the fleas will drop down into the water and be rinsed away. It is a good idea to do this process 2 or 3 times in a row; if even 1 flea is missed your problem will begin all over again. You must also wash everything that you can. This will include not only your Pug's belonging, but everything in the home. If not, the fleas will just remain on your bedding, couch and carpet and wait for you or your dog to come by. Wash all sheets, blankets, pillow cases, pillows, clothes, small rugs, dog bed cushions and anything else that will fit in your washing machine. You may also choose to hand wash some items in the bathtub using warm water and a lot of soap. As the items are being washed and you have de-fleaed your Pug you should keep your dog somewhere safe until you are done cleaning the home. Be careful that while transporting your dog that you do not pass any area in which a flea can jump on him. While he is flea-free you can then continue washing the items and then the vacuuming must begin. Vacuum all of the floors and then empty the vacuum container or put in a new bag. Then, repeat the process. It is recommended to vacuum the couch and all chairs in the same manner.

How to Prevent Fleas Now that you made it through the exhausting part of getting rid of the fleas, prevention will seem easy. You must: Keep the grass mowed very short in your yard Do not allow your Pug to run through fields of tall grass Be careful about which dogs your dog interacts with Use flea prevention medication and a flea collar

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Chapter 72: Bad Breath Overview

If you are a frustrated dog owner, whose Pug has bad breath, you are not alone! What could make your dog's breath smell so bad? When it comes to this issue, we are not talking about the odor of the dog biscuit your Pug just ate. Extreme bad breath in Pug dogs can be quite a serious issue.

What Can Cause This It is important to understand that when a Pug dog has bad breath, this may be caused by something much more than what he just ate. Let‟s look at the possible health issues that can result in a dog having bad breath: Gingivitis -inflammation and infection of a dog‟s gums Periodontal disease - inflammation of the gum area in a dog‟s mouth Abscessed tooth or teeth - which can cause extreme pain for a dog Foreign material in a dog‟s mouth – This can be a bone, a blade of grass or just about anything that could get stuck, which over time becomes encased with bacteria Oral ulceration – sores in a dog‟s mouth that cause a terrible odor Oral Neoplasia – a serious canine health issue which causes tumors of the mouth Lung diseases – the most common being canine lung cancer Severe kidney disease – a very serious canine disease

Signs that Something is Medically Wrong The following signs can alert you that there is a solid reason why your Pug has bad breath: Oral discharge of any color

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Pain – your Pug may withdraw, rub his face or jaw on the floor or other objects or seem more aggressive Blood discharging from the dog‟s mouth Excessive drooling Difficulty swallowing Difficulty eating Depression – your Pug will often retreat to a quite area, may not want to play as usual, may not want to go for walks, etc.

Diagnosing Bad Breath in Dogs It is important for your dog‟s veterinarian to first run a complete set of tests to rule out any of the above medical reasons. Your dog‟s veterinarian should: Do a complete physical examination Do a complete oral exam Take full-mouth X-rays

Treatment Of course, any medical conditions must be treated right away. If your Pug‟s bad breath is not due to a medical issue, there is plenty that you can do to help. • To keep your Pug‟s breath smelling fresh and to keep your dog healthy in general, you must perform daily dental cleaning at home. In addition, you must bring your dog for a yearly dental checkup or checkup every 2 years if you are scrapping the teeth at home. Many dogs pass away from festering infections, because owners falsely believe that chewing on bones and toys keeps the teeth clean. It does not! Your dog needs regular dental cleanings. • Certain dog treats are formulated to help with a dog‟s bad breath • Dog breath drops will help, most are rather tasty to a dog!

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Chapter 73: Constipation Reasons for Canine Constipation

A Pug, as with any dog breed, can become constipated.

This can happen for

many reasons, including: A change in their dog food diet Eating spicy food or food with too much fat Experiencing stress Having ingested a non-food, such as a toy, paper clip..anything that the dog may have swallowed and should not have Eating bones - even little pieces of bone can block the digestive track and cause serious harm to a dog The symptoms are what would be expected. However, it should be noted that these symptoms can often be the same as when a dog has a bowel infection or other medical issue. Therefore, it is highly recommended to bring your Pug to the veterinarian if you see that your dog has: Not had a bowel movement for 3 days Strains when eliminating There is blood or mucus in the dog's feces

Constipation in your Pug can cause many health issues for your dog. The buildup of bowel movements can cause toxins to build up in the dog's body. This can sometimes be seen as the dog: Has bloating Has a decreased appetite Appears to have tummy pains

Treatment for Mild Cases Once your Pug's veterinarian has ruled out any other medical causes for the symptoms, you can then begin to treat the constipation.

If your dog is not on a high quality dog food, it is highly recommended to switch to one right away. Inexpensive dog food is often difficult for dog's to process and digest. High quality dog food is easily digestible and helps with many more health issues aside from the constipation.

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Be sure to always keep fresh water available at all times. Do not "free feed" your Pug. Dogs do best when on a feeding schedule. Puppies will eat 3 to 4 times per day and adult Pugs will usually eat 1 meal per day. Occasional snacks are fine. Allowing your dog to have time periods of having no food enter the body, will allow the dog to process what he or she has previously eaten. Adding fiber to your Pug's diet will help. It is recommended to add 1 teaspoon of oat bran to the dog food, each day.

Treatment for Severe Cases In severe cases of canine constipation, your veterinarian may: Prescribe a laxative Perform an enema If a foreign object is obstructing the bowels or digestive tract, surgery may need to be done

Prevention High quality dog food and a constant supply of water are the best steps to avoid this canine heath issue.

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Chapter 74: Dog Flu What Dog Flu Is

The dog flu is an extremely contagious respiratory virus. The official medical term is a type A influenza virus called H3N8. It is believed that this strain originated in horses and then crossed over to canines. This is airborne and is passed from dog to dog via coughing or by the dog touching contaminated objects.

The Symptoms The symptoms of Dog Flu are similar to Kennel Cough; but are different. The clearest difference will be that coughing lasts for a longer number of days. The signs are: Coughing for more than 10 to 20 days (the typical time for Kennel Cough to resolve). The cough is usually rather dry with no mucus. Nasal Discharge A low fever Weakness A small percentage of Pugs will have a more severe case of Dog Flu: Signs of Pneumonia A very high fever Extreme weakness

Treatment The Dog Flu is an airborne virus and passed from dog to dog by coughing and when a Pug touches an object that has the virus on it. Nearly 100% of Pugs who are exposed to the Dog Flu will contract it. Out of those dogs, 80% will have mild cases, some so mild that symptoms will not even appear – the dog‟s body will make antibodies to defend against the Flu and you may never know your Pug had it. 20% will have the more severe type. Out of all of the dogs who catch the Dog Flu, 5 to 8% will not be able to fight it off and it will be fatal. Medicine given will be antibiotics and the use of a humidifier.

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In severe cases in which Pneumonia develops, a Pug may need IV fluid therapy in an animal hospital.

Prevention If you ever have your Pug in a boarding kennel, be sure to use one that you know or have very high recommendations to. Ask kennel employees if they are familiar with the signs and symptoms of Dog Flu. Stay aware of the current news. Look on the TV, radio and Internet for any announcements that there is an outbreak of the Dog Flu. If there is a known outbreak, do not bring your Pug to the dog park, pet stores or any place where your Pug may come into contact with other dogs or be where another dog just was. If you Pug ever shows the symptoms of Dog Flu, go to the veterinarian right away. For the sake of other dogs, do let the office know that you suspect the Dog Flu so that they may isolate your Pug to stop the spread of this canine disease. There is currently no vaccine for the Dog Flu. The vaccine for Kennel Cough does not work for this.

Can Humans Catch It? It is very unlikely. There has never been a reported case of a human catching the Flu from a dog. Veterinarians, vet techs and kennel workers often work very closely with dogs who have the Dog Flu and there has never been a reported case.

To Summarize The best way to protect your Pug is to be aware of any outbreaks and to bring your Pug to the vet as soon as you notice any symptoms.

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Chapter 75: Slipped Disk Overview

A slipped disk is the most common cause of paralysis in dogs. What is the Disc? The spinal cord is made of cables of nerves (like the wires running in an electrical cable), linking the brain to the local nerves that control the movement of the limbs and other functions. A disc is a spongy, doughnut shaped pad in the main joint between the vertebrae. The disc lies just underneath the spinal cord. Each disc has a semiliquid center and a tough outer fibrous layer. The discs form a bridge between two neighboring vertebrae and act as a cushion, giving strength and flexibility to the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s spine.

Why does a Disc Slip? A slipped disc can happen in 2 ways: 1. A healthy disc can slip when trauma occurs to a Pug (such as a road traffic accident or a fall from height) 2. Degeneration of the disc can be a result of a premature aging process. Disc degeneration is more common in the regions of the spine which are particularly exposed to physical stress (the lower neck, mid-back and lower-back).

The Symptoms Spinal pain is the most common sign of disc disease. If your Pug has spinal pain they will show: Abnormal posture (low head carriage, rounding of the back) Be reluctant to move or exercise May sometimes cry when moving around. A slipped disc can put pressure on the spinal cord; this damages the nerves and causes signs. If the disc slips suddenly there may also be bleeding into the spine which puts even more pressure on the nerves. This can cause any or all of the following signs: Loss of coordination Weakness

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Paralysis Lameness, Fecal or urinary incontinence Loss of sensation in the leg.

How do I Know How Severe This Is? If your Pug has any signs of back problems or lameness your vet will want to perform a full neurological examination. An MRI scan can help to determine how much the spinal cord is being compressed in the Pug. These special tests help to confirm if there is a slipped disc, where it is and will also show up other causes of spinal pain or paralysis if they are present.

Possible Surgery In most cases a slipped disc is considered to be a surgical disease except where: This is the first time your Pug has had back pain, Your Pug has a medical condition that makes general anesthesia very dangerous If your Pug has minor spinal cord compression and it is suspected that spinal bruising is responsible for most of the signs. Surgical treatment consists in drilling a hole in the vertebrae to remove pressure on the spinal cord. Recovery time vary from 1 to 4 weeks. Despite carrying a small risk of causing further trauma, surgery should prevent further deterioration and relapse in the future.

Non-Surgical Treatment Non-surgical treatment consists of strict rest, in a cage or room for at least 4 weeks and treatment with medication that will reduce swelling and pain. Your vet will want to see your Pug regularly to ensure that they are not getting worse without surgery.

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Chapter 76: Worms Overview

Most

dog owners have heard of the term "worms"; however do not fully understand just how serious this can be. When a dog has worms, this is just exactly as it implies: a type of worm has invaded the dog's body. Let's discuss the most common worms that can affect a Pug dog. Learn how your Pug may get worms, what you can do to prevent this or treat this and how to know if your Pug dog has worms.

Tapeworms What are these? Tapeworms are flat worms with segments across the body. The head usually has suckers or muscular grooves that enable the tapeworm to attach itself to the animalâ&#x20AC;&#x;s intestine. An adult tapeworm living inside a Pug dog can be as large as 20 inches (50 cm) long. The tapeworm stays alive by sucking nutrients from the dog through its skin. How does a Pug dog get tapeworms? A dog can get tapeworms by swallowing a flea. Fleas can contain tapeworm eggs. In rare cases, a Pug that gains access to a rodent or lizard may get tapeworms from these animals also. How do I know if my Pug dog has tapeworms? You will know that your Pug dog has tapeworms when you see dried segments of the tapeworm around the dog's anus. These will be about as small as a grain of rice. Because this parasite causes irritation, your Pug dog may shuffle his rear across the ground. Full worms may actually be present in the Pug dog's bowel movement; these worms can actually be seen moving. How do I Prevent This? Pug puppy should have a feces analysis performed by a veterinarian at the age of 20 days. This is done because a Pug puppy can be born with tapeworms. If found, the dog should be de-wormed, which is done with medication given by a

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veterinarian. After that, vaccinations, which begin at the age of 6 weeks, will help prevent this. What is the Treatment for Pug dogs with tapeworms? If you suspect that your Pug dog has tapeworms, you veterinarian will most likely want to examine a stool sample. Once confirmed, this is very treatable with medication.

Hookworms What are these? Hookworms are a nasty little worm! This parasite hooks onto a dog's intestine with its sharp teeth and then it pokes a hole in a blood vessel. It will then begin to suck blood from the dog. If a Pug dog was infested with 300 hookworms, the dog would lose 5 to 10% of his blood supply each day. For this reason, hookworms can be fatal if not treated. How does a Pug dog get hookworms? There are 3 ways that a Pug dog may get hookworms. A puppy may be born with them, a puppy may get them when drinking mom‟s milk or a Pug dog may swallow a hookworm larva. These microscopic larvas can be found on anything from blades of grass to infected dog food dishes. How do I know if my Pug dog has hookworms? Once infected, the symptoms will be clear: • Diarrhea - often very black or bloody • Vomiting • The dog will lose his or her appetite, eating much less or not at all • Pale colored mucous membranes may appear in the dog's mouth • Weakness, emaciation and slowed growth due to lack of appetite How do I prevent my Pug dog from getting Hookworms? Preventing hookworms is done via several methods. Good hygiene is very important. The dog's feces should not be left in the yard outside. Having human family members wash their hands often is helpful as well as keeping your Pug dog well groomed and clean. Because hookworms can travel from one dog, to an environment and then on to another dog, it is best to keep away from unclean dog parks. In addition, if you ever feed your Pug dog homemade food, be sure that the meat is cooked well. When cleaning your home, using bleach on hard

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surface floors can kill hookworm larvae. The most important prevention is to have your Pug receive regular checkups and bring your dog to the veterinarian at the first signs of any symptoms. What is the treatment for a Pug dog with Hookworms? Thankfully, despite the havoc that hookworms can play inside a dog's body, mediation can quickly get rids of these worms.

Roundworms What are these? Roundworms are one of the most common parasites found in dogs. They are rather big, 4 inches (10.1 cm) long. They are usually a white color and resemble a stand of cooked spaghetti. These worms can live inside a Pug dog's intestine and live off of partial digested food. How does a Pug dog get Roundworms? A Pug puppy may be born with Roundworms if the mother dog is infected. The puppy may also become infected from its mother's milk. Even if the mother dog has tested negative for Roundworms, she may still be infected if the larvae have not fully developed. A Pug dog may also pick up this parasite by eating soil that contains eggs or by eating or chewing on small rodents. How do I know if my Pug dog has Roundworms? You most likely will not know if your Pug has Roundworms; therefore regular deworming is very important. Follow the schedule that your dog's veterinarian gives to you. If not checked and the Pug dog becomes severely infected with Roundworms: • The dog may vomit up the worms. You will know that it is a Roundworm because its body will not be segmented as a Tapeworm is. • The Pug dog may have a swollen stomach • The Pug dog may show signs of pneumonia as the worms migrate through the dog's body into the lungs and other areas How do I prevent my Pug dog from getting Roundworms? Keeping regular vet checkups and not allowing your Pug dog to chew at outside elements such as soil or rodents will help to keep this at bay.

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What is the treatment for a Pug dog with Roundworms? Medication will work to get rid of these worms. It will cause the worms to let go of the dog's body and pass out through bowel movements. A dog may need many treatments. Prognosis is good, if this is caught in enough time before too much damage to the dog's body is done.

Heartworms

(This photo is graphic but we felt it was important for readers to understand how serious a heartworm infection is, this is an authentic photo of the heart of a deceased dog who died of heartworms)

What are these? Heartworms are about the same size as the Roundworm and Tapeworm. A severe case of Heartworm disease can be fatal. This worm lives inside of a dog's right ventricle of the heart and nearby blood vessels. How does a Pug dog get Heartworms? It is hard to believe that something as small as a mosquitoes can be so dangerous to a dog! A Pug dog may catch Heartworms when an infected mosquito bites them. Heartworm larvae will enter into the Pug dog and grow. Within about 3 months, they will complete their travel to their destination: your Pug dog's heart. Growing up to 14 inches (35.5 cm) these worms can overtake a Pug dog's body. After 6 months, they are reproducing. How do I know if my Pug dog has Heartworms? You usually will not know that a dog has Heartworms until it is too late. Late stages of this canine disease are: • Weakness • Weight Loss • Coughing How do I prevent my Pug dog from getting Heartworms? Prevention is so simple and easy, yet so many dogs fall victim to Heartworms! There are numerous Heartworms prevention medications, most over the counter. Buying prevention medication is vital. Heartworm prevention medication is usually separated by the weight of the dog.

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What is the treatment for a Pug dog with Heartworms? Once a dog is badly infected, treatment can be very tricky. Arsenic-based drugs are used to kill adult Heartworms and the dog must be very carefully watched by the veterinarian. Usually a dog will need to have in-patient care for at least several days. As the adult Heartworms are rid from the dog's body, they may block blood vessels to the dog's lungs, causing a pulmonary embolism, which can be fatal. To help reduce the chance of this happening, the dog must be kept very calm and quiet for 4 weeks following treatment. In the most severe cases, surgery is performed to remove the worms. Both of these treatments are not always successful. In some cases, a dog needs to be euthanized.

Ring Worms What are these? Contrary to its name Ringworm is not a worm at all, it is a fungus called Dermatophytes. Dermaphtytes means 'plants that live on the skin'. In the past, because of the circular lesions made by the fungi they were thought to be caused by worms, hence the name ringworm. The fungi live on the surface of the skin and in the skin follicles feeding on dead skin tissue and hair. There are three different types of fungus that can cause ringworm but the most predominant ones found on dogs is called: Microsporum canis. The Symptoms The usual symptom is a round hairless lesion. This means that in many cases the dog will lose fur in the area that the ringworm appears. The ringworm may also be clearly seen on the belly of a dog. The characteristic "ring" that we see on humans doesn't always appear as a ring on dogs. This lesion will grow in size and often become irregular in shape on a dog. The fungi cause the hair shafts to break off and this results in patches of fur loss on a dog. Ringworm is commonly is found on the face, ears, tail and paws, as well as other areas. The lesions are scaly and may or may not be itchy and often the skin is red and swollen. How Dogs Catch This

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Transmission can happen by direct contact with another infected animal or person. It can be passed from dogs to cats and visa versa and from pets to humans and from humans to pets. It is very contagious. The fungal spores can live in the environment for a long time and can be found in carpets, bedding, grooming equipment, etc and can infect your dog youâ&#x20AC;&#x;re your Pug comes into contact with them. The incubation period is 10-12 days. This means that following exposure to the fungus, about 10-12 days will pass before any lesions will be seen. In rare cases ringworm can be spread by contact with infected soil. The fungus can live for months in soil if the nutrients are right. Fortunately the spores are easily killed with a solution of bleach and water. (500 mls of bleach to 4 liters of water). Can Ringworm spread to humans from dogs? You can contract ringworm by touching an animal with ringworm. Ringworm can spread while petting or grooming dogs. You can also get ringworm from other animals such as cats, cows, goats, pigs and horses. Are all dogs susceptible to ringworm? Healthy adult dogs usually have a resistance to ringworm. Young dogs and puppies are more susceptible because their immune system hasn't fully developed. Many dogs are carriers of ringworm but show no symptoms. They can, however, infect other animals or humans. Diagnosis of Ringworm To diagnose Ringworm your vet will need to do one of the following tests. It is not possible by just looking at the skin to make the diagnosis. Wood's Lamp - An ultra violet lamp also known as a black light. Your vet may use this as 50% of microsporum canis will glow under the lamp. Microscopic diagnosis- Your vet may look at part of the hair or skin from the lesion under a microscope. Culture - Your vet may decide to take a scraping from the lesion and send it to a laboratory to see what the culture grows. Treatment of Ringworm If no treatment is carried out, ringworm will run its course in 2 to 4 months and the symptoms will resolve themselves. However, treatment is highly 232 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

recommended to save your Pug from suffering any longer than necessary and to cut down the period of time they are contagious Griseofulvin Your vet may prescribe Griseofulvin for your dog. It is an anti fungal medication that is used for dogs with ringworm but it does have some side effects so be sure to consult your vet before giving any medication. Griseofulvin inhibits fungal reproduction. Shampoos and Dips Lime sulfur dips are often recommended. Dips should be given twice a week and can be performed either by your vet or at home. Please be aware that Lime Sulfur will stain clothing and jewelry and will cause temporary yellowing of the dog‟s coat. It also smells very strongly of rotten eggs. Follow your vet‟s instructions for mixing the dip and block your nose!

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Chapter 77: Asthma Overview

Asthma is a disease that can affect dogs. It results in an obstruction of the airways when the bronchi (the air passages in the lungs) fill up with mucous and go into spasms. It is important to know the difference between “normal” Pug breathing noises and true asthma.

Symptoms Dogs any age can get asthma, but it occurs more commonly in young and middle-aged dogs. The primary sign is coughing and/or wheezing. In severe cases which require immediate help at the veterinarian or animal hospital: The dog will go into distress and this would result in: Open mouth breathings Gums and tongue becoming purple In some cases, a Pug may become weak and stop eating, resulting in weight loss. Between episodes, dogs can seem perfectly normal. Triggers for asthma may include second hand smoke, litter dust, air pollution and certain fragrances.

Treatment To diagnose asthma, it is necessary to perform an X-ray of the chest and perform additional tests to rule out other respiratory problems. These may include heartworm tests, blood counts and chemistries, and bronchial lavage. Once a diagnosis of asthma has been made, treatment often consists of steroids, antihistamines, bronchodilators, perhaps antibiotics or a combination of these drugs. In severe attacks, oxygen therapy may be necessary. The prognosis for control of this disease is excellent, with most dogs living happy and normal lives with the help of life-long medication. Unless an underlying cause can be determined, a cure is unlikely. Your veterinarian can help to determine both the cause of asthma as well as the treatment options best suited to your Pug.

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Chapter 78: Hyperkinesis â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Over Hyper Pug Overview

Some dogs are very active.

It is rare, however some Pugs are hyperactive. This is called Hyperkinesis. This is akin to a human who is hyperactive. Studies have been done extensively on this subject. Currently, this is officially a behavioral issue.

The Symptoms The dog will become very distressed when confined (such as in a dog crate) The dog will have an increased heart rate and respiration The dog will usually have excessive drooling There will be a reduced urine output The dog cannot sit still for more than 1 minute The dog has a very hard time learning any commands The dog always behaves excited or can act very nervous If your Pug does not like being in their crate, this does not mean that your dog is hyperactive. If your Pug becomes very excited when you arrive home, this also does not mean that your Pug is hyperactive. It is only when these symptoms all happen relatively at the same time, will a dog then be evaluated for hyperkinesis.

Treatment Some dogs with moderate cases of hyperactivity can respond well to an increase of exercise (to release energy) and daily training to learn commands. In severe cases, the prescribed medicine Ritalin has proven to work very well for dogs who are out of control and cannot be helped with exercise and training.

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Chapter 79: Understanding Parvo What this Is

Most refer to this as simply “Parvo”. This most often infects puppies under the age of 1 year old. However, in rare cases, an adult Pug may contract Parvo. Bloody diarrhea is the first symptom and one must be very diligent to bring their Pug puppy to the vet immediately if noticing this sign. Parvoviruses are a large group; almost every mammal species (including humans) has its own parvovirus. Fortunately, each virus is rather specific about what animals it can infect (for example, the canine parvovirus will not infect cats). The canine parvovirus will affect most members of the dog family (wolves, coyotes, foxes etc.) and there is a new mutation that can affect domestic cats. Parvoviruses are smaller than most viruses and consist of a protein coat (a "capsid") and a single strand of DNA inside. It is hard to believe that such a simply constructed organism could be so deadly; however, this virus has proved especially effective at infecting rapidly dividing host cells such as intestinal cells, bone marrow cells, cells of the lymph system, and fetal cells. Parvoviruses are not enveloped in fat the way many other viruses are. This makes parvoviruses especially hardy in the environment and difficult to disinfect away.

How a Puppy Gets Infected Whether or not infection happens depends on the interaction of 3 things: 1. The Dog’s Vitality (including the dog‟s immune experience and vaccination status 2. Strength & Amount of the Virus (how many viral particles the dog is exposed to) 3. Environmental factors. Obviously these 3 aspects interplay somewhat (a stressful environment will reduce the dog‟s vitality, a dry environment will reduce the number of viral particles etc.)

Where the Parvovirus Comes From This virus has been around for just about 20 years, is very hard to disinfect away, and is shed in large numbers by infected dogs. This means that there is virus everywhere: on every carpet, on every floor, in every yard and park. Parvo is shed for the first two weeks or less after infection in the stool of an infected dog but only a tiny portion of infected stool (which

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could be months old depending on the environmental temperature and humidity) is needed to infect a non-immune dog. Some dogs become what is called "subclinically infected" which means they do not appear sick. These dogs tend not to be confined since no one knows they are infected; therefore they can spread virus around a large area depending on where they leave their droppings.

Why Puppies and

Adult Dogs can Get Parvo

The most important factors in parvovirus infection seem to be the immune experience the dog has had with the virus plus the number of viral particles the dog is exposed to. Twenty years ago when the virus was new, all dogs young and old were susceptible but now, because the virus is present everywhere, all dogs, even the unvaccinated ones, have at least some immunological experience with this virus. Any exposure no matter how small is likely to generate some antibodies. Also, vaccination is a widespread process nowadays and it is likely that a dog has had at least one vaccine at some point. Will these antibodies be enough for protection? In general, the answer seems to be yes as infection in dogs over age one is somewhat unusual. It is important to realize, however, that this observation should not be taken to mean that adult dogs should not continue their vaccinations. Even though infection is somewhat unusual in adult dogs, adult dogs should still continue their vaccinations as this is a life threatening disease for which treatment is expensive and no chances should be taken.

Protection From the Puppyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mother When puppies are born, they are completely unable to make antibodies against any infectious invader. They would be totally unprotected except that nature has created a system to protect them. Their mother secretes special milk for the first day or two after giving birth. This milk is called "colostrum." It contains all the antibodies that the mother dog has circulating in her own body and in this way; she gives her own immune experience to her puppies. These antibodies protect the puppies until they wear off sometime in the first 4 months of life. How much colostrum an individual puppy gets depends on its birth order and how strong a nurser it is; not all puppies get the same amount of antibodies. Every 9 days the antibody levels possessed by the puppies drops by half. When the antibody level drops to a certain level, they no longer have enough

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antibodies to protect them and if they are exposed to a large enough number of viral particles, they will get infected. For this reason, we recommend that puppies be restricted from public outdoor areas until their vaccination series is completed at age 16 weeks. There is a good week or so period during which the puppy has no antibody protection leftover from its mother but still is not yet competent to respond to vaccination. This window is where even the most well cared for puppies get infected.

The Incubation Process of Parvo The virus enters the body through the mouth as the puppy cleans itself or eats food off the ground or floor. A minuscule amount of infected stool is all it takes. There is a 3-7 day incubation period before the puppy seems obviously ill. Upon entering the body, the virus seeks out the nearest rapidly dividing group of cells. The lymph nodes of the throat is where this usually happens and the virus sets up here first replicating to large numbers. After a couple of days, so much virus has been produced that significant amounts of virus have been released free into the bloodstream. Over the next 3-4 days, the virus seeks new organs containing the rapidly dividing cells it needs: the bone marrow and the delicate intestinal cells. Inside the bone marrow, the virus is to blame for the destruction of young cells of the immune system. By killing these cells, it knocks out the body's best defense and ensures itself control of the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s GI tract where its most devastating effects occur. All parvoviral infections are distinguished by a drop in white blood cell count due to the bone marrow infection. Seeing this on a blood test often confirms the diagnosis of Parvo. In addition, a veterinarian may choose to observe white blood cell count or even attempt to artificially raise the white blood cell count in an infected puppy through treatment. It is in the GI tract where the heaviest damage occurs. Diarrhea in large quantities results not to mention nausea. The barrier separating the digestive bacteria from the blood stream breaks down. The diarrhea becomes bloody and bacteria can enter the body causing widespread infection (remember that that virus has simultaneously destroyed the bone marrow's ability to respond immunologically).

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How Parvo Kills Diarrhea and vomiting lead to extreme fluid loss and dehydration until shock and death result Loss of the intestinal barrier allows bacterial invasion of potentially the entire body. Septic toxins from these bacteria result in death.

Diagnosis A Pug puppy with a bloody diarrhea could have a parasite problem, a virus other than parvovirus, stress colitis, an intestinal foreign body, or may simply have eaten something that disagreed with him. It is important to confirm the diagnosis of parvovirus before embarking on what could be the wrong treatment. The ELISA Test The ELISA test has become the most common test for parvovirus in puppies. ELISA stands for Enzyme Linked ImmunoSorbant Assay. The parvo ELISA test is a kit and is performed in the vetâ&#x20AC;&#x;s office in about 15 minutes or less. There are many other different brands as well and testing is very sensitive in its ability to detect the actual presence of the virus in stool. The test has some limitations that are important to realize. Recent vaccination with a live vaccine (the type of vaccine that is most effective) may interfere with the test results. This means that the test may detect the live virus from the vaccine and show a positive reading when, in fact, the puppy does not have a parvo infection. Typically, this interference occurs 5-12 days after vaccination so if a positive fecal ELISA test is obtained within this period after vaccination, additional tests may be recommended. Further, the puppy could be infected but no longer shedding virus in its stool. Or the virus particles may be so thoroughly coated with antibodies that they cannot react with the chemicals of the test. In almost all cases, one can trust a negative ELISA reading but it is important to realize that no test is perfect. White Cell Count Drop The virus basically turns the immune system off before making its deadly way to the GI tract. This is a feature of parvoviruses means that a distinctive drop in white blood cell count is seen on a blood panel. This finding is especially helpful in the diagnosis of a recently vaccinated puppy as the ELISA test may be positive from the vaccine but if the white count is normal, the puppy is probably not infected. The white blood cell count is commonly monitored in the treatment of a parvovirus case. If the puppy is not brought to the veterinarian until later in its

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disease course, it is possible to miss the white cell drop and not correctly make the diagnosis. Similarly, a puppy presented early in the course of infection may not yet have the white cell drop and sequential tests may be needed to confirm diagnosis.

Treatment Treatment for parvoviral infection centers on support. This means that the clinical problems that happen during the infection are addressed individually with the goal of keeping the dog alive long enough for an immune response to generate. There is not an effective anti-virus. In most cases, an infected puppy will need a 6 day hospital stay in Intensive Care. If given all treatments in the hospital, the survival rate is 75-85%. include:

This will

Fluid Therapy - One of the ways Parvo can kill is from the severe dehydration that happens. It is vital to replace the enormous fluid losses (from vomiting and diarrhea) with intravenous fluids (IV). Fluids are given as a steady drip rather than simply under the skin so that absorption into the circulation is direct. Potassium is usually added to the fluids in order to maintain electrolyte balance. Dextrose (sugar) is also frequently added as the stress of the disease may lower blood sugar especially in a very small puppy. Antibiotics - The second way Parvo kills is through bacterial invasion of the circulatory system (“sepsis.”) Since the GI tract is damaged, antibiotics cannot be given orally. They are given either as shots or are added into the IV fluid bag. There are a number of antibiotics which may be selected. Some antibiotics you may see in use include: *Cefazolin

*Baytril

*Ampicillin

*Gentamycin

*Amikacin *Trimethoprim-sulfa *Chloramphenicol Controlling the Nausea The dog‟s comfort is a very important part of treatment for any disease but is especially important for Parvo treatment as these puppies feel extremely nauseated. Again, the GI tract is too damaged for oral medication so medications are given as injections. There are two popular medications for nausea control: Metoclopramide: (best given as a continuous drip in the IV fluid set up) If used as separate injections, relief tends to be short lasting and does not

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provide “around the clock” control. If a continuous drip is used, nausea control lasts as long as the drip is running. Chlorpromazine: a very strong nausea control medication which lasts 6-8 hours per injection and has the added benefit of a drowsiness side effect (so puppies can sleep through most of this uncomfortable time). Injectable antacids (Tagamet, Zantac, or Pepcid) are often used to prevent ulceration of the esophagus of the esophagus should protracted vomited be a problem. Monitoring The following tests are helpful in adjusting treatment for Parvo: Fecal floatation to rule out worms/internal parasites Urine specific gravity/Azosticks (Checks the effectiveness of the IV fluid therapy) Total blood protein (Protein depletion is common when there is heavy diarrhea. If blood proteins drop too low, special IV fluids or even plasma transfusions are needed to prevent massive life-threatening edema)

Prevention and Vaccination The biggest problem in protecting a puppy against this infection ironically stems from the natural mechanism of protection that has evolved. As mentioned previously, puppies obtain their immunity from their mother‟s first milk, the colostrum, on the first day of life. This special milk contains the mother‟s antibodies against parvovirus and until these antibodies wane to ineffective levels, they will protect the puppy. The problem is that they will also inactivate vaccine. Vaccine is a solution of inactivated virus, either live and weakened or killed. This virus is injected into the puppy. If there is still adequate maternal antibody present, this vaccine virus will be destroyed just as if it were a real infection. There will be a period of about a week when there is not enough maternal antibody to protect the puppy but too much to allow a vaccine to work. This period is called the “window of vulnerability. Then after this, vaccine can be effective. The next problem is the age at which vaccine can be effective is different for each individual puppy. This is why puppies are given vaccinations in series (spread out as opposed to just 1 vaccine). A vaccine is given every 2-4 weeks until age 16 weeks.

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By age 16 weeks, we can be certain that maternal antibodies have waned and vaccine should be able to “take.” It should be recognized that some puppies, especially those of well vaccinated mothers, must be vaccinated out to 20 weeks Vaccinating Adult Dogs Typically, parvovirus vaccine has been administered annually to all dogs. Vaccine against canine parvovirus has been included in the distemper combination vaccine (the “DHLPP”, “6 in one” etc.) There has been some thought that predisposed breeds should be vaccinated every 6 months. Vaccinating every 6 months was common in the early 1980‟s when the virus was new and in some clinics this policy has simply persisted. Others like to vaccinate certain breeds every 6 months. There has also been some thought that annual vaccination is not necessary, especially for a disease where adult dogs are considered low risk. Many university teaPugng hospitals have switched to an every 3 year schedule for adult dogs. There is still controversy regarding this practice, especially given possible financial impact to most veterinary hospitals. Do not be surprised if your veterinarian has chosen to follow the university and begin recommending a 3 year vaccination protocol for this virus. What is a Vaccine Titer? A vaccine titer is a blood test that measures the antibody level a dog is carrying against a certain virus.

Recovery for a Pug Who Had Parvo Medications Your puppy will be finishing up a course of antibiotics and may also be on some medication for nausea or diarrhea. It is important that you give your puppy the medication prescribed for the full amount of time it has prescribed. Diet Your Pug is recovering from some extensive damage to his/her intestinal tract. It is typical for stool to be a little loose at first or for no stool to be produced for a few days as the tract recovers. The stool should gradually firm up over the first 3-5 days at home and your puppy should be active and of normal attitude. If the diarrhea persists, if vomiting occurs or if your puppy seems depressed, please contact your vet immediately for instructions.

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Your puppy may be voraciously hungry after going so long without food. Do not allow the puppy to gorge as this can result in vomiting or diarrhea. Feed smaller meals separated by at least an hour or two. Do not feed table scraps. Stick to the diet recommended by your veterinarian. A prescription diet may have been sent home or a home cooked diet may have been recommended (such as boiled Pugcken and white rice, or fat free cottage cheese and pasta). It is important for your puppy‟s food to be easily digestible so stick to the protocol your veterinarian has recommended. Exercise Your puppy should be considered contagious to other puppies for a good month so it is important to “play it safe” by restricting trips to the park, obedience school or other neighborhood areas. If your puppy is less than 16 weeks of age, he/she should not be allowed in public areas until the vaccination series is fully completed. Other Pets Cats and humans are not susceptible to canine parvovirus infection. Adult dogs that have been vaccinated are not susceptible, either. Puppies, however, are at risk. If your sick puppy was indoors only, wait at least one month before any new puppies come to your home. If your sick puppy was outdoors, remember that it can take 7 months before the virus is eliminated from soil. (Freezing will preserve the virus so that any time during which the ground is frozen, that time does not count in this 7 month period.) Bathing Your puppy may be bathed any time as long as you do not allow him/her to get cold or chilled after the bath. Bathing will reduce the amount of virus left on the puppy‟s fur and will help reduce contamination. Resuming Vaccines Follow your veterinarian‟s recommendations. Your puppy cannot be reinfected with this virus for at least 3 years (and probably is protected for life simply by virtue of this infection) but there are other viruses that your puppy should be protected against. Your veterinarian will give you a vaccination schedule to adhere to for the future. There should be no permanent effects due to this infection. The recovered puppy should lead a normal life once the recovery period is completed (1-2 weeks)

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Chapter 80: Reverse “Sneezing” What This Really Is

Reverse

sneezing is not actually a “reverse sneeze”. Reverse sneeze syndrome is characterized by a series of rapid, loud, forced inhalations through the dog‟s nostrils. This can last anywhere from 10 seconds to 2 minutes. Attacks occur on an erratic, random basis. When this happens to a Pug, the dog usually has their head extended forward and stand still during the episode. Pugs who have this appear completely normal before and after the attack. There is no loss of consciousness or collapse, though sometimes the appearance of the dog is upsetting to owners. Many dogs have these attacks throughout their lives.

What Causes This The exact cause of reverse sneezing is unknown, but it may be linked with sinusitis and other upper respiratory disorders. Many believe affected dogs are deliberately removing mucus from the nasal passages. In fact, many dogs swallow at the end of the attack. Whatever the cause, the condition is usually not serious. However, in some cases, this is caused by mites or allergies and would then need to be treated by the veterinarian. If the condition appears suddenly in an older dog or if episodes become more severe or frequent, the nasal passages and throat should be examined.

Treatment Options at Home Reverse sneezing rarely requires treatment from a veterinarian. There are things that you can do at home to try and help your Pug: 1. You can very gently massage your Pug‟s throat, this can often stop the spasm 2. Sometimes it‟s effective to cover the nostrils. This forces the dog to swallow, which clears out whatever the irritation is and stops the “sneezing” 3. If the episode doesn't end quickly, you can try depressing the dog‟s tongue, which opens up the mouth and aids in moving air through the nasal passages.

Treatment Options at the Veterinarian

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If this happens quite often, it is suggested to bring your Pug to the vet to check for underlying problems. If reverse sneezing becomes a chronic problem rather than an occasional occurrence, your veterinarian may need to look up the nasal passages (rhinoscopy), throat, and may even need to take a biopsy to determine the cause of the problem. Sometimes, however, no cause can be identified. If mites are in the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s throat area, your veterinarian may use drugs such as Ivermectin to get rid of the mites. If allergies are the root of the problem, your veterinarian may prescribe antihistamines. Because reverse sneezing is not a severe problem, do not worry about leaving your dog home alone; if it occurs when you're not there, the episode will most likely end on its own. Some dogs have these episodes their entire lives; some dogs develop the condition only as they age. In most dogs, however, the spasm is a temporary problem that goes away on its own, leaving the dog with no after-effects.

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Chapter 81: Acne Overview

Acne can happen to dogs, it is more noticeable with dogs who have short coats. There are steps that you can take to solve the problem and to help to prevent scarring.

Making Sure it is Acne It is important that your vet take the proper actions to ensure proper diagnoses. Other health issues can appear to be canine acne and should be ruled out. Demodicosis can appear to be dog acne. This is a form a mange and a scrapping of the affected skin on your Pug should be done. The material scraped off should be examined under a microscope to rule out this possibility. Ringworm. Ringworm is not actually worms. It is a skin infection. Small hairs should be plucked out and a culture will be run to rule this out. Puppy Strangles. This is not common, but should be ruled out. This looks very similar to canine acne. Dogs with this have a poor appetite and weakness. If your Pug shows these symptoms and has not been checked for this, it is highly recommended.

Treatment for Dog Acne If acne is indeed the correct diagnosis, your vet is on the mark. A gel containing Benzoyl Peroxide is what is used. An owner must take care to not use too much. Dogs are very sensitive to this and using more than is prescribed will not help, but will do more harm. A topical antibiotic should be given to prevent secondary infections. If swelling is moderate to extreme, topical steroids should be applied to help with that issue. In chronic cases of canine acne with Pugs, (cases in which the acne will just not go away) long term antibiotics and steroids should be given, in pill form.

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Scarring This is a bit tricky, because the possibility of scarring will depend on how deep the acne is and how chronic it is. Do be sure to never "pop a pimple" as this will not only cause your Pug a lot of pain but will open the area for infection. It is the secondary infections which would be the main cause that leads to any potential scarring. For this reason, either topical antibiotic solution or antibiotics medication in pill form for chronic cases should be given. There has been some pleasing results with dog owners who use Calendula. This is a concentrate made from the Marigold flower. It has been shown to help with healing and scarring in many cases. You would find this at a Health Food Store, Vitamin Store, etc. You would put 6-7 drops into 1 ounce of warm water. Mix well. Using a cotton ball, apply this 2 times per day.

A Final Word While canine acne is not uncommon in the Pug breeder, it usually lessens and sometimes goes away completely as the dog grows and matures (just like people). Do please make sure that your vet checked for other possible causes and then do make sure to that antibiotics are being given. Lastly, using Calendula is very safe (when applied as stated above), it will most likely help with healing and should help with scarring.

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Chapter 82: Aortic Stenosis Overview

This condition causes the heart to fail (stop working properly). Age This can happen to Pug‟s of any age. In a young Pug, when this happens it usually causes abnormal formation of the heart or of the blood vessels around the heart. In older Pugs it usually weakens one side of the heart. The heart works like a mechanical pump. It accepts blood on one side and forces it through the lungs, then its other half pumps the blood on through the entire body. The heart does not change or alter the blood in any way. It does not add anything to the blood and it does not filter anything away from it. It simply circulates it throughout the body.

How the Heart Normally Works Let‟s take a look at exactly where the blood goes into and out of the dog‟s heart: Blood returns from the body and enters the right upper chamber of the heart, called the right atria. At this point, the blood is low in oxygen but high in carbon dioxide. It is then pumped from the atria through the right atrioventricular valve into the right ventricle. From this larger chamber, it is then forced on into the lung field through the pulmonary artery. This is the only artery in the body that carries non-oxygenated blood. Carbon dioxide is a byproduct of body metabolism and is attached to the red blood cells. In the lungs, carbon dioxide is replaced with oxygen. The reoxygenated blood then moves through the pulmonary vein back into the heart and enters the left atrium. This chamber pumps the blood through the mitral valve into the left ventricle, which is the largest, most heavily-muscled chamber of the heart. While other chambers only move the blood a short distance, the left ventricle has the responsibility of forcing blood throughout the entire body. This completes the system, which allows blood to circulate throughout the body and then return to the heart. Let‟s take a look at the heart so that the following makes sense:

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LA = Left atrium, LV= Left ventricle, PA= Pulmonary artery, PV= Pulmonary, RA= Right Atrium, RV = Right ventricle , VC = Vena cava In young Pug dogs, when aortic stenosis happens, it affects the left side of the heart. When the left ventricle pumps blood to the body, it goes first through the aorta. This huge artery then branches into smaller ones that supply different areas. With aortic stenosis, the opening between the left ventricle and aorta is smaller than normal causing the left ventricle to work much harder to force the required amount of blood through the restricted area into the aorta and on to the rest of the body. Animals with this disorder are weak, lethargic, prone to fainting and may have poor growth rates. These dogs will typically have much shorter life spans and death finally results from left-sided heart failure. Even though the left ventricle is extra strong, it cannot maintain this workload over time. Only surgical opening of the stenotic area of the aorta provides a true cure.

Symptoms •

A heart murmur – this often is found during a routine exam at the veterinarian

In very serious cases, the symptoms of this canine health issue will mimic canine heart disease: • The Pug dog will become very tired and weak • Decreased appetite • Difficulty breathing • Panting and/or coughing • Fainting after exercise • In very severe cases, the beating of the dog‟s heart will be very clearly seen in the dog‟s veins of the dog‟s neck, even at complete rest or sleep

How is this Diagnosed?

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Once a heart murmur is detected, your Pug dog should be referred to a canine heart specialist either before or after the following tests are done: • Determine the exact location of the most intense area of the murmur – the murmur will be graded on a scale of 0/6 to 6/6 • Time how often this happens • Perform X-rays of the dog‟s chest • Perform an ECG of the Pug dog – which will determine the severity of the heart valve‟s narrowing.

What is the Treatment for this Canine Heart Condition? No matter what the degree of this health condition, a dog‟s owner should make sure: • The Pug dog does not ensure excessive exercise; this is especially important in hot weather •

Keeping the dog at the proper weight will help ease stress on the dog‟s heart

Medication Beta-blocker •

medication

for

dogs

may

prescribed

if:

The Aortic stenosis is severe (graded as 5/6 or 6/6)

• There are signs of left ventricular hypertrophy (this means when the heart muscle cells become enlarged •

Dogs with signs of VPCs. (Ventricular Premature Complexes)

Beta-blockers help a dog to tolerate exercise, reduce the stress on the dog‟s heart and prevents abnormal heart rhythms.

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Chapter 83: Canine Arthritis What is Arthritis in Pug Dogs?

The joints of the dog become swollen.

This swelling then can cause fluid to build up in and around the joint. With the most common form, deterioration of the cartilage occurs. The dog‟s body attempts to compensate by restructuring the bone and this is what causes the many health issues

The common types of Canine Arthritis in Pugs There are 4 types of arthritis in Pug dogs: • Osteoarthritis – this is the most common form – if your Pug dog has arthritis, most likely your dog has Osteoarthritis •

Immune-mediated

•

Infective

•

Idiopathic (where the cause is unknown)

The causes Arthritis in Pug Dogs •

An injury - most commonly to a ligament

• Obesity – overweight Pug dogs can often get arthritis as their bodies speed development and extra bone around the joint is built up •

The joints may be genetically weakened or unsteady as a dog grows

•

In Pug puppies, it may be caused by failure of proper bone development

The Symptoms of Arthritis in Pug Dogs • Steady onset of weakness in one or more limb • Signs of fatigue - The Pug dog will not want to go for walks, etc

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• Stiffness – The dog will show signs of difficultly in rising from a laying position, walking stairs, etc. This is usually worst in the morning and may improve as the day goes •

Joints may be swollen

• Pain – many dog owners will not be able to that their dog is in pain from arthritis until it has progressed. When a Pug dog is in pain or not feeling well, there will be behavioral changes – the dog may often retreat to be alone, he or she may become aggressive.

How is Pug Dog Arthritis Diagnosed? If you notice 1 or more of the above signs, this must be reported to your dog‟s veterinarian • X-rays are currently the best method to access the severity of arthritis in Pug dogs •

Joint fluid may be collected and analyzed

Prevention While you cannot completely control if your Pug dog gets arthritis, there are some things that you can do to try and prevent this: • Keep your dog at a healthy weight – do not allow extra weight to do damage to your dog‟s joints• Keep your Pug dog on a daily routine of exercise – this is so important not only for arthritis issues but for overall health.

Treatment • If there is an injury to the dog‟s ligament, surgery can help to stabilize the joint that is involved • Anti-inflammatory medications can help to control pain and swelling. These will be prescribed by your dog‟s veterinarian • Acupuncture for your Pug dog can help with pain management- this is fast becoming an alternative method to treat canine health issues •

Herbal medicine for dogs – With no conclusive scientific studies to back up

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the use of herbal medicine use with dogs, there are some dog owners who do say this helps. It is always best to talk about this with your dog‟s veterinarian • Pug dogs with arthritis find great comfort in having dog stairs or ramps. Jumping off of your bed or couch can hurt! Steps or ramps for dogs can offer a simple way for them to easily get down from furniture • Just laying down on the floor can cause discomfort for a dog who has arthritis. A very soft dog bed should be offered to the Pug dog, soft comforter blankets should be placed on the floor in areas where the dog usually lays down – such as in the living room in front of the TV

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Chapter 84: Bloat Overview

This is also known as Killer Bloat and the official name is Gastric Dilatation Volvulus. This is a very serious health problem. It literally means when a Pug's stomach bloats and twists to such a degree that it can be life threatening. Pug Dog Bloat happens when dog food, water and air becomes trapped in the dog's stomach because of the stomach "twisting".

What Causes Pug Dog Bloat? Overeating or eating too fast - this is the most common reason Stress also plays a role

What are the Symptoms? Vomiting or dry heaving A tight stomach that is clearly visible to you The dog may walk in a strange way due to the pain and twisted stomach Signs that your Pug dog is in pain and discomfort - a dog may want to be alone or may act aggressive if you try to go near him Signs of shock - pale gums, shallow breathing, a slow heartbeat and a coolness of the dog's skin

Prevention There are several causes for this canine health problem, all which an owner can beware of to prevent this. Exercise immediately after eating - Explained in our Feeding section, a Pug should not exercise in the first 30 minutes after eating. Food should be allowed to digest. Only feed your Pug a high quality dog food. Spicy or greasy human food is not only unhealthy for a Pug, it can also lead to canine bloat. Be sure not to overfeed your Pug. Follow proper feeding guidelines.

Treatment A Pug with Bloat must be taken to an emergency animal hospital. Only there can a dog receive the treatment for this serious health problem. A tube will be inserted into the stomach to help remove gas and dog food. If this does not work, surgery will be done. Gastroplexy may be done, a procedure in which the Pug's stomach will be attached to the wall of their body. Once this surgery is done, the odds of a Pug having Bloat again is greatly reduced.

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Chapter 85: Cardiomyopathy

cardiomyopathy is still being studied.

However, as this disease is currently understood it consists mainly of an electrical conduction disorder. This means that it causes the heart of a Pug dog to beat erratically. This is also more commonly known as an arrhythmia. This can happen randomly with no way of knowing when or how long it will happen for. In cases where this does happen randomly and not often, the dog will probably not have symptoms of heart disease. However, if the erratic beats occur in sequence this will cause weakness, collapse or sudden death to the Pug dog. For this reason, any owner of a Pug breed dog should be aware of this health concern.

What are the Symptoms? Once this disease gets severe enough to cause noticeable symptoms, your Pug dog may have: Fainting – When blood is not pumped correctly, this can cause lapses where the dog is not receiving enough blood flow and the dog can faint. The fainting will happen for a few seconds to a few minutes depending on how fast the dog‟s heart corrects itself. Coughing - Each case is different. However some Pug dogs with cardiomyopathy will reach a point where the ventricles of the heart expand. This causes the walls of the heart to become thin and the heart itself will decline in strength. Coughing may occur.

How this is Diagnosed This is a bit tricky as usually, there are no symptoms during early stages. This is usually found during a routine vet visit. The heart arrhythmias are not always identified by using a stethoscope. It all depends on the actual frequency of the abnormal heart rhythm. Usually, the cardiomyopathy will cause an extra heart beat or a skipped beat and it must occur without a corresponding pulse in order to be deemed cardiomyopathy arrhythmia. If the frequency is just right, a veterinarian will be able to detect this during a normal checkup. Normally, your dog‟s veterinarian will use 1 hand to hold the stethoscope and 1

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hand is put on the dog‟s hind leg to feel their pulse. Why on the hind leg? This area contains a large femoral artery which vets find one of the best areas to feel a dog‟s pulse.

If an Irregular Heart Beat is Found If your dog‟s veterinarian determines that your Pug may have cardiomyopathy, the next step is to perform an ECG on the dog. The top way to assess a Pug for arrhythmia is to use a 24-hour ECG. While an ECG can pick up arrhythmias if they are very frequent. It will tell show if your dog has frequent or infrequent skips and how many.

Is This Treatable? Yes. If your Pug dog is diagnosed with cardiomyopathy arrhythmia, he or she can be treated with anti-arrhythmic medication.

Is This Fatal? Sadly, yes, it can be. If the Pug keeps getting barraged with skipped beats this can cause the heart to enter an unstoppable uneven rhythm which is fatal. This happens when 100‟s or even 1000‟s of skips occur in a 24 hour time period.

Does an Irregular Heartbeat Mean it is Cardiomyopathy? No. Some Pug dogs will have a disease that causes an irregular heartbeat. This can happen with some very serious infections and with certain types of cancer. Once that disease is under control, the heart will go back to beating normally. When the irregular heartbeats in a Pug happen to an otherwise perfectly healthy dog, it is then that cardiomyopathy is suspected.

What Can I Do to Prevent This Canine Health Issue? Studies are underway to find out more about the element of L-Carenitine and if this has an affect on a dog‟s chances of improving or controlling this disease before it becomes serious. These studies are not yet conclusive. Early prevention is the best course of action. When you Pug is 1 year old, your dog should be checked for an irregular heartbeat. A dog should be checked for this before any breeding is done. More often than not, a Pug who has Cardiomyopath arrthymia will show signs by the age of 5.

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Chapter 86: Elongated Soft Palate What This Is This is the most common breathing disorder of the Pug dog. The soft palate is the flap of skin at the back of the throat. If the palate is too long, it blocks the airway making it difficult for the dog to breathe. The Pug can also choke on or spit up pieces of food and even pass out from lack of air.

The Symptoms Signs are: Excessive panting Unable to calm down quickly when excited Possibly vomiting Loud, raspy breathing when overheated

How This is Diagnosed Your Pug‟s veterinarian should check the palate by looking down the dog‟s throat, many times while the dog is awake if he/she is calm and will allow it. Otherwise, a mild sedative can be given so the vet can do a thorough check.

Treatment Surgery can be done to shorten the palate but is not suggested until the Pug is about a year old as the palate may still grow when they are pups, and another procedure may be required at a later date. Sometimes the Pug may need to have their tonsils removed also, and the vet should do this during the palate clip if required. Laser surgery is now the most common way to shorten the palate. It cauterizes as it cuts, which cuts down the bleeding and swelling, and lessens recovery time. During post-op recovery, only soft food should be given to allow the throat time to heal. Rice/ with chicken, soft dog food, eggs, oatmeal and even baby food are some of the meals that can be fed. Dog food can also be softened with hot water or a gravy. Healing time varies by dog but normal time is between 2-3 weeks.

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Chapter 87: Stenotic Nares

Stenotic nares

is the medical term for pinched nostrils. This is caused by inherited malformation of the cartilages of the nose. This can make breathing very difficult for the dog. Although stenotic nares are present at birth, the symptoms of respiratory difficulty often do not begin until the dog is several years old. It is important to note that may Pug will often have pinched nostrils (stenotic nares) during the teething phase. As the puppy matures, the nose will open. Veterinarians who are not “breed specific” will often want to surgically fix this. However, this very often fixes on its own. Therefore, it is suggested to wait until after the teething phase. You generally will find that it does fix on its own. A dog with stenotic nares needs to use extra pressure to forcefully inhale. This causes the dog‟s larynx to become weak. Eventually, the larynx will collapse, causing the dog to be unable to move a sufficient amount of air into the lungs. Affected dogs often appear blue (cyanotic) and can die. Therefore, treatment as soon as symptoms are noticed is very important.

Symptoms Noisy breathing (especially when the Pug breathes in) Exercise intolerance Cyanosis (blue appearance of the gums, due to lack of oxygen) Fainting (in severe cases)

Diagnosis Stenotic nares are relatively simple to diagnose by simply looking at the size of the opening into the nostril. However, there may be other issues that go along with this such as a soft palate or a collapsed larynx that are less obvious and typically require light, general anesthesia or heavy sedation for diagnosis. Because affected dogs may have several of these abnormalities present at one time, your veterinarian will either examine your Pug under anesthesia or refer you to a specialist for the examination. Diagnostic tests are also necessary to determine the general health of your Pug.

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In addition to obtaining a medical history and performing a general physical examination, other diagnostic tests may be necessary, including: Listening to the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s chest with a stethoscope, in order to help rule out other causes of respiratory difficulty. Chest radiographs (X-rays), to be sure that the heart and lungs appear normal.

Treatment Treatment is divided into medical management and surgery.

Medical Management If your dog has only mild signs, you may be able to manage this without surgery by preventing your Pug from having an excessive respiratory effort. This requires that you: Prevent your Pug from becoming overweight Avoid excessively stressful situations, such as exercise during hot, humid weather Avoid using a neck collar and use a harness instead Mild cases can turn severe, so carefully watching your Pug is very important.

Surgery Surgery, if performed before severe clinical signs develop, is relatively easy and the prognosis is good. When surgery is delayed until later in the course of the disorder, the prognosis is not as good. The surgical procedure for this condition involves widening of the opening through the nostrils, by removing a small piece of the wall of each nostril. This can be done with a scalpel or a surgical laser. There may be other areas of the Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s face that need reconstruction, such as the soft palette, this is done at the same time.

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Chapter 88: Pug Dog Encephalitis

Pug dog Encephalitis is a very scary disease that the Pug dog breed is susceptible to. No one wants to think about this topic, however all Pug owners should be aware of it.

What This Is Pug dog Encephalitis (PDE) is that it is an inflammation of the brain (swelling of the brain) that can happen to adolescent Pugs usually between the ages of 2 and 3. What causes this inflammation, in Pugs, and at this age range in particular is all unknown to this date. Symptoms: Seizures are the primary symptom of PDE, however it is vitally important to understand and remember that seizure activity in Pugs does not necessarily mean that a Pug has PDE. Pugs may also suffer seizures from Epilepsy, exposure to toxic chemicals or gasses and for unknown reasons. Lethargy and loss of muscle coordination are two symptoms that do, but donâ&#x20AC;&#x;t always happen before seizure activity caused by PDE. Neither of these two symptoms together or apart definitively indicates PDE is the cause. Lethargy is a symptom to nearly all illnesses that can strike a dog ranging from a common infection to something more serious. A loss of muscle coordination can indicate other problems such as neurological issues, ear infections and more. Pacing in circles before or between seizures is a fairly common symptom of PDE. The Pug will pace in a circular motion over and over again for a prolonged period. Head pressing against objects such as walls or furniture is another symptom seen with PDE. This pressing activity normally occurs frequently and for a prolonged period of time. Pugs suffering from PDE may also exhibit signs of agitation and/or aggression whereby the Pug appears disturbed for no apparent reason or aggression that is uncharacteristic of our Pugs and comes on suddenly also for no apparent reason. Two Classifications of PDE: Slow Progressive: This classification of PDE features seizure activity and sometimes the additional symptoms before the seizure activity. The seizures will strike, last anywhere from just a few seconds to a few minutes and then recur in a matter of days or weeks. In between these seizures, the Pug will return to normal and demonstrate no symptoms associated with PDE.

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Rapid Progression: This classification of PDE features seizure activity that is often more frequent, but not always. In between the seizure activity however, the Pug does not return to normal but instead does show the other symptoms. The symptoms between seizures are commonly: depression, bewilderment, disorientation and signs of lacking muscular coordination such as having difficulty walking. The end result of either classification of PDE unfortunately is the same. Whether it strikes in the slow progressive or the rapid progressive form, PDE will eventually be fatal. Those Pugs that have been diagnosed with PDE and said to have survived are widely believed to have been misdiagnosed. Why PDE is So Severe and So Unknown Broad Symptoms: Understanding the way seizure activity, lethargy and a lack of muscular coordination can indicate any number of health issues explains the difficulty veterinarians often have diagnosing PDE. While a favoring of one leg while running is a tell tale sign of Luxating Patella, or a crater in the cornea a sure sign of a corneal ulcer, the symptoms of PDE can span a wide range of possible causes making this disease difficult to diagnose. Sudden Death: PDE normally strikes quickly, and frequently either the Pug passed away or results in the owner agreeing to put his/her dog to sleep. This leaves little or no time to run tests such as CAT scans or MRIâ&#x20AC;&#x;s that might possibly help veterinary research learn more about this disease. Autopsies and tissue donation to veterinary research helps to provide some means of examination into PDE, however the speed at which PDE strikes and results in death surely makes researching the disease all the more difficult. Pug Specific: Were this a disease to strike dogs of all or many breeds, more urgency would exist to research PDE so that a cause and cure could be found. But this is only happens to Pugs.

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Chapter 89: Your Pug’s Ears

Ear Mites

Ear mites are the most widespread mite that infests dogs and they are very transmittable, easily spreading from dog to dog or other animal to dog. Ear mites are little crab-like parasites that reside in the ear canals and head of dogs, and despite the name, they can also sometimes be found throughout a dog‟s body. There can be thousands of mites inside of a Pug‟s ear. They begin by living on the surface of the dog‟s ear canal. It is there that they eat the tiny amounts of a dog‟s tissue and ear fluid. As time goes by, they can travel to the dog‟s back, neck and all over the body. The mites have a 3 week cycle and can live off the dog for several weeks. Different than fleas, they do not prick the skin or suck the dog‟s blood.

What are the Signs? You will know that you Pug has ear mites if: There is swelling in your Pug‟s ears, this is sometimes extreme Irritation and scratching An increase of earwax, this may be thicker than normal Ear discharge, this is usually very thick and can be the color black The dog will have intense itching and will do all he can to scratch his ears In an attempt to stop the terrible irritation, a dog will usually shake their head quite a bit Sometimes, Ear Hematoma can occur. This is when a pocket of blood occurs between the layers of the ear pinna cartilage and skin. It is often caused by shaking head and whipping the ears due to ear mites Ear Mange may occur, which is the term to describe the redness and crustiness of the ear that is usually caused by ear mites.

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How Does a Dog Catch Mites? Although a dog may catch ear mites at any age, this does happen more frequently with puppies. The reason is that they have not yet built immunity. This is very contagious and if any animal or dog who has ear mites comes into contact with your Pug, your dog may then have them.

How is this Diagnosed? When seeing the signs, your veterinarian will confirm. Some of the signs are similar to yeast infection and other ear problems, therefore the vet will make the diagnosis by using a lighted otoscope tool that allows him to see these miniature mites. The light that emits from this tool actually causes the mites to move out of the wax.

What is the Treatment? The first step is for the veterinarian to clean out your Pug‟s ears. The next step is for medication to be applied. Once this is performed by the veterinarian, most owners will need to clean the ears and apply the medication at home, as well. Because ear mites are extremely contagious, all other pets (any type) should be examined and treated at the same time.

Can I Prevent This? It can help to thoroughly dry your Pug‟s ears after baths and to always check for foreign matter in the ears. Taking your Pug to the vet as soon as you suspect mites is the best course of action for a speedy recovery.

Pug Ear Infections What Causes this? Dog ear infections can be triggered by several different elements. Ears that remain wet after bathing or swimming can serve as a host for bacteria. An excess of wax build up may plug the ear and cause infection, foreign objects caught inside of the dog's ear, untreated ear mites or cleaning too deeply can all be causes.

What are the Symptoms? You will know to take your Pug to the veterinarian if you notice: A very bad odor coming from the ear/s

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A discharge coming out of the dog's ear The Pug is constantly trying to scratch their ears, or rubbing them against objects Touching the ear causes the dog to react with signs of pain, such as a yelping noise. When an ear infection is left untreated, it can cause the dog to become dizzy, unbalanced and even vomit

Treatment for Pug Dog Ear Infections The dog must be examined by the veterinarian. Tests will be performed, including looking into the ears to examine the canal. The ear may be flushed. The veterinarian will perform a professional cleaning and then medication will be given to you, to bring home to treat your Pug. Most infections clear up in a week or so, if medication is given properly and ears are kept clean.

Reoccurring Dog Ear Infections Some dogs have chronic ear problems that keep coming back as soon as the medication is gone and with some dogs, medication never fully fixes the infection. At this point, extensive testing must be done to find the cause of the reoccurring issue. With this type of issue, it is important to find the cause. Why? Because a lot of ear infections can cause scarring inside the dog's ear and lead to even more serious health concerns. As long as the dog keeps getting hit by infections, scarring will increase and lead to even bigger health issues. Several steps should be performed: 1. A sample of the ear discharge should be examined to identify the exact type of bacteria or virus. 2. Owners must regularly perform ear washings at home\ 3. Testing may show that the infections are being caused by allergies. This is the #1 reason for reoccurring infections. Once the cause of the allergy is determined ...prognosis is good.

Pseudomonas Canine Ear Infections Pseudomonas aeruginosa is a very rare type of bacteria and it is resistant to most antibiotic medication. When a dog with reoccurring infections is given many different types of antibiotics, most of the bacteria are killed but not all. What lingers is a strain that is severely strong and resistant.

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When the culture of the dog‟s ear discharge is done, this will show if it is indeed Pseudomonas. This will also show if this strain can be eliminated by the very strong antibiotics of Enrofloxacin or Orbifloxacin. A topical treatment will be given as well to use at home.

Last Resort If the cause of the reoccurring infections cannot be determined and medication is not working at all, the final step that may be taken is surgery. A specialist will surgically open the vertical canal. The ear is then easily and completely cleaned out and treated. Chronic ear infections can cause a dog's ear canal to become very scarred. This scarring can become so immense that the canal becomes almost closed. If so, Ablation is the final option and only done is the most severe cases with dogs in which no cause can be determined and medication just does not help. The entire ear canal of the dog is removed. Healthy tissue then re-grows in its place. A specialist will do this and this is usually expensive. Most dogs do very well after this surgery and most will never experience infections again.

Prevention and Proper Care at Home Proper grooming to your Pug's ears is very important. Dogs with a medical history of ear problems do much better with correct home care. Remove excess hair - Hair blocks the natural flow of air into the dog‟s ear canal. Extra hair should be plucked out with tweezers. Ear powder may be used; this is a powder that makes plucking easier. Flushing - Once any excess hair is removed, the ears should be flushed and cleaned. This can be done with solution given to you by your dog‟s veterinarian or found over the counter. Once done, gently massage the base of your dog‟s ears. This helps to move the solution in and around the folds inside the dog's ear. This solution will not only clean, but will dry the canal and help keep the pH balanced. This is done 1 time per week and any time after a bath.

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Chapter 90: Heat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Information Regarding both Male and Female Pugs Overview

When you have a female Pug, you may have many questions about heat. If you have a male Pug, you should be aware of what behavior your male dog may suddenly show when a female in the heat cycle is even remotely close by. His behavior may seem puzzling to you; since he may be sensing something that is out of your line of sight.

How Does This Apply If I Have a Male Pug? An un-neutered male Pug has a very strong, inbred urge to find and pursue a female dog that is in heat. A female will usually not allow a male to mount her unless she is in heat; therefore once a female is in this stage the male will follow her to the ends of the Earth! The male dog is capable of walking for 2-3 miles to chase the scent of a female dog. This can be avoided if you have your male Pug neutered. Until that time, beware of the strong urge your dog may have that is usually stronger than any training he has had to stay put at home! If your male Pug seems anxious, restless, keeps trying to look out the windows, rushes ahead or seems to walk out of control while you are walking him or he leaps and bounds at a fence...these are signs that he is having the urge to run. Extra care should be taken to make sure that your dog cannot run away. Even one second of having an open door is all he will need to take off in pursuit.

What Exactly is Heat?

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Heat is somewhat equivalent to the human female menstruation; however it does differ in many ways.

The Age a Pug Begins Heat A female Pug will have her first heat cycle as young as 5 months old. However, all dogs will vary. If your Pug does not enter heat by the age of 14 months, this is a warning sign and she must be taken to the veterinarian for a checkup.

At What Age Does a Pug Stop Having Heat? Will She Enter Menopause? This is one element in which the Pug differs greatly from humans. A Pug may stop the heat cycle somewhere around 10-12 years old. However, some female dogs never stop entering heat. An older dog having to endure this can be very rough on her body. Therefore, it is strongly recommended to have your Pug spayed as soon as possible if you know that you will not be breeding her. Spaying is best done as soon as possible. Vets often spay even before the 1st heat cycle.

How Long a Heat Cycle Lasts Heat can last from 2 to 4 weeks. Each cycle may be different. For example, your Pug's first heat may last 2 weeks and her next one may last 4.

At What Time During Heat Can My Pug Get Pregnant? Your dog is able to get pregnant at any time during heat; even the first day. However, the most fertile days for your dog will be 10-14 days into her heat cycle. During this time, she will usually allow any dog to mount her. If you are not planning on having Pug puppies or mixed breed pups, it is vitally important to keep her in the home as much as possible and when outside, have her on a short leash. She will be releasing pheromones when she urinates. Therefore, male dogs from literally miles around may sense her presence. Any un-neutered male dogs that are unleashed may be hanging around close to your home. Never allow your female Pug in heat to go outside alone, even for a moment! A larger male dog may injure her and it only takes a few minutes for a dog to mount her and get her pregnant. This is not a good time to go for walks in dog parks, etc.

Will My Pug Bleed a Lot?

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Yes and no. The amount varies from dog to dog. In any event, there will be some blood that discharges from her vagina and her vulva will become swollen. You may not notice any blood; the discharge may be more of a pink color. However if your dog is bleeding noticeable amounts you may put a doggie diaper on her. This is becoming a popular trend; as there is no reason to confine your dog to one room or spend each day cleaning up after her, when you can simply put a cute and decorative diaper on her to catch any discharge.

How Often a Pug Goes Into Heat Your Pug will enter heat approximately every 6 to 8 months; therefore you should expect this phase about twice per year.

Should I Have My Pug Spayed to Stop Her Heat Cycle? It is very strongly recommended to have your dog spayed. In today's day and age, veterinarians are spaying dogs even before their first heat cycle. Spaying your female dog will severely lessen her odds of falling victim to ovarian and mammary gland cancer. Entering heat just 1 time increases the odds of cancer by 16%! If you are not planning on breeding her, spaying will help you have peace of mind that she will be safe from male dogs and there will be no unwanted pregnancies. In addition, since a Pug is able to have puppies even as an elderly dog, it is very important to have her spayed. A Pug older than 8 should not have to endure having pups!

Split Heat Dogs will have a heat cycle twice a year; however many owners swear that their female dog had 3. How could this happen? Sometimes a dog has what is called a split heat. Split heat is when a female shows signs of heat for a few days, stops for 2 to 10 weeks, and then the heat continues and finishes. Because she does not go through a full heat the 1 st time and it continues after that 2 to 10 week break, this is not considered to be 2 heats, it is a “heat split in two”. If this happens, it is best to bring this up to your dog‟s veterinarian.

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Chapter 91: Breeding Your Pug PLEASE READ FIRST - As you begin reading this, you may think.. “Oh, here we go again, reading the same old stuff!” We MUST repeat SOME things and some warnings for ethical reasons. Please read them. As you read on, you will find a lot of additional information that you have not heard before and will find very helpful for breeding. Then, continue on by reading the entire “Pregnancy” chapter and other related chapters.

Deciding to breed your Pug is an enormous responsibility and much time should be spent deciding if you are prepared for all that will be needed. Breeding is a lot more complicated than just allowing 2 Pugs to mate. We are wise to follow these famous words: “Breeding is not the mating together of two AKC registered dogs to produce puppies. That has been the downfall of many breeds. It's a creative art that requires the study of genetics, conformation, and bloodlines and veterinary procedures. The responsibilities for the future generations lie with a breeder. The mating together of outstanding champions will produce many pets, so if dogs that are not outstanding are bred, can you imagine what can happen? Personality, disposition and health are lost, along with the good looks of the breed. SO CONSIDER CAREFULLY!" Before you decide to breed your Pug, you will want to ask yourself these questions and see if you can answer in the way that must be needed to be a successful breeder: Question: Have you studied genetics and the backgrounds of the dogs in question? Do you feel confident that this will be a sound breeding (i.e. That the puppies will be free of any serious genetic defect and will be good quality examples of the breed) Answer: The female Pug and male Pug (dam and sire) must be tested to be medically sound. Both should meet the AKC standards so that you are breeding to improve the breed standard; any defects will continue those flaws in the potential litter. Both male and female cannot have any genetic health issues which can be passed down from parent to puppy. If a genetic flaw is found, the dog should not be bred. Expect that you will always have some dogs who cannot be bred.

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Question: Is your dam the appropriate size? Does she have good pelvic breadth and good tuck up to carry puppies and deliver them? Answer: You will usually want the female to be larger than the male. She must have a thorough veterinarian checkup to make sure that she has the correct proportions to carry and deliver. Question: Is she the right age to breed? Answer: It is best for the Pug female to be between the age of 2 years old and 3 years old. This offers her the best chance to be physically mature but still have enough youthful flexibility. Females must stop breeding at the correct age. In general, females are “retired” from breeding at age 5-6. However, this will vary greatly on many factors including how she recovered, the size of her litter, if a cesarean was needed and so much more. Some females love being mothers can have litters well into the 6, 7 or even 8 year range. Females should not be bred after the age of 8…And certainly if there are any health issues, breeding will need to stop earlier. Question: What is your breeding goal? Answer: To ethically breed and to breed with responsibility, a breeder‟s goal should be to improve the line of the Pug breed. If so, one should gather all upto-date information on breeding standards per the AKC. Breeding AKC dogs means having your home inspected every year; thus ensuring that you are following all necessary steps to have healthy dogs and puppies, that litters are planned and documented, that you can show which parent goes with which puppy and that all Pugs are purebred. If you do not want to AKC register your puppies, you may choose a different dog club, such as the CKC (Continental Kennel Club) in which case puppies will not be able to be AKC “show dogs”. Question: How often should a Pug be bred? Answer: Each dog should be individually evaluated. However, in general, most veterinarians recommend breeding twice in a row and then allowing a rest. Alternatively, you may wish to breed every other heat cycle. The most important element is that the female Pug be evaluated after each litter to see if she is even able to handle having a future litter. When a Pug must have a cesarean section, in many cases she should not have any more litters. All females should be retired by the age of 5 or 6, if not recommended sooner by your veterinarian. In some cases, she may be fine to breed just a bit longer. Question: Can you afford all that is needed? Answer: Breeding, again, is not to be taken lightly. This is a huge undertaking and is expensive. Breeding should be done in your home. While close to delivery, the dam should not be left home alone. You will need to be there and

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this means you will not be able to be at work. The litter of newborn puppies will need 24 hour, around the clock care, you will need to be there every moment. You will also need money for: Cesarean sections –Careful pairing of dogs can help lessen the chances of a cesarean section, but it is always a possibility. Veterinarian checkups for all dogs Veterinarian checkups for all puppies Shots and de-worming High quality puppy food and dog food Blankets, doggie bed, play pens, toys, food dishes, gates, cleaning supplies Question: Can you deal with loss? Answer: Ethical loving breeders have a huge weight on their shoulders. Over time, the most careful breeder may experience the loss of dams and the loss of puppies.

The Very Beginning Breeding Process

the

First of all it must be said that raising dogs is not just a random mating of two dogs. If things are done properly there is a great amount of time and consideration put into each mating. If you have never bred before, here is an example of how it may begin… Let‟s say you are one of many people who owns a female Pug and think you would like to have a litter of puppies. Many, many things should be considered at this time. The first is the health of the female. Has she had puppies before? Will this be her first litter? What should you expect if you never have had puppies before? If you have never bred a dog before, you will first want to take your female to the vet. This would also hold true for males. If you don‟t own both the male and the female, also called the dam and sire, you will want the owner of the sire to take him to a vet as well. Typically, if you don’t know the owner of the other dog well, you will want a vet to pull blood work and make sure the potential mate is free from Brucellosis.

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Brucellosis is basically a canine STD. (Sexually Transmitted Disease.) A dog carrying brucellosis will spread it through mating and the results are devastating. There is a trend from pet owners looking to mate their dog and posting on the internet for a good mate. Many of these owners will simply mate their dogs without the knowledge they need and it can be quite tragic. Brucellosis results in sterile dogs, and puppies that are dying or deformed, or miscarried. This whole issue can be avoided to start with by making sure the potential mate is not carrying this viscous bacterium, which has no cure at this time. Your vet will run a blood test to check for this. Next you want to be sure you the prospective dogs are old enough. The AKC (American Kennel Club) rules dictate that a female Pug be eight months old before she is bred, and a male seven months old before he can bred. However, most breeders do not breed a female on her first heat, and many will wait until the female is two years old, and the male about a year old. Breeding should stop when the female is about 6 years old. A male may be used for breeding longer. Obviously, if there are any health issues, breeding must stop before these ages. To repeat ourselves (just to make sure you understand ), a female should not be bred every heat! There are 2 methods: 2 heats in a row and then a rest during the next heat….Or every other heat. And obviously, the female may need a rest at any time during this process if the pregnancies are taking a lot out of her. At this time we must add, if you are planning on breeding un-registered dogs, you need to ask yourself why. Anyone breeding really needs to deeply think this whole idea through thoroughly. Sometimes the papers are not important to you, but they will almost always be important to the owners of your puppies. Think about what your plan will be if you can‟t find homes for each of the puppies because they don‟t have papers? Sadly, puppies can die at birth or soon afterward…No one wants to think of these things, but they must be thought of because it can and does happen. Pug have been called “the heartbreak breed” because of the issues that can pop up out of what feels like nowhere at all. You really do want to sort out answers to each of those questions before you commit to raising a litter of puppies. Will the puppies you allow to come into the world be an improvement to their breed, or just another puppy? If: You have decided that you will keep any pup that isn‟t perfect till the end of their days You are willing to risk losing your dam and puppies (although it will be rare, you have accepted that it can happen) You have homes waiting for the puppies and you are able to keep them all if their homes fall through You know the backgrounds of the dogs you plan to mate 272 ©PetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Your vet has cleared both dogs and they are perfectly healthy to breed… Now, you can carefully begin your first breeding.

Getting Mom Ready for Breeding – Feeding Details Now you need to get your potential new mom in condition for raising puppies. A huge part of this is that you will change the way in which you feed your female. In today‟s world kibble can be quite an issue. Horrible things ranging from chicken feces, beaks and body parts, to plastic filler, all the way to rendered road kill and flea collars left on deceased pets are cooked and added to kibble. It is enough to give the strongest of us shivers and nightmares! Therefore, home cooking is strongly recommended. If you insist on feeding manufactured food, we would suggest Purina or Eukanuba. And if you think that you have found a manufactured food that is better, remember that high protein isn’t protein that your dogs can use, if it comes from ash or other odd sources. One element that dogs who are going to breed should have is digestible calcium – and this is best found in raw bones (read on). A female should NOT be given extra calcium supplements! Not all calcium is digestible easily, and it is dangerous to give calcium supplements during this time (even though that may seem opposite to you). Raw bones are the first and best way to achieve this. If for some reason you don‟t want to feed raw bones, you will want to feed ONLY the LIQUID from pressure cooking chicken bones. Some calcium will leak out into the water. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that you understand cooked bones of any kind can be fatal to dogs. Raw bones do not splitter like cooked ones. You NEVER want to give cooked bones to your dog. Liver is a good food to give to a dog that you are preparing to breed, while you are getting her in “Breeding condition”. Liver is high in iron and has other nutritional values, but with any ORGAN meat, cooked or raw, you do not want to feed it more than twice a week…feeding liver more often than this can led to an upset to your dogs digestion because these foods are extremely rich. Gizzards and hearts are also good organ meats for dogs. Eggs raw or cooked, are a wonderful source of protein for dogs. NOTE: Yogurt and cottage cheese are often given to dams prior to breeding, during pregnancy and until the puppies are weaned.

Keeping Your Dam Safe During Pregnancy For a dam to whelp easily and have the highest odds of healthy puppies she needs proper nutrition and care. You will want to be sure she is eating well all during her pregnancy and that she doesn‟t do anything that jeopardizes the puppies. Jumping off a sofa that is too high for example can injure the

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unborn puppies if the dam were to fall too hard. She will need exercise and it is not unusual for her to sleep more while the babies are growing. Keep in mind her body will take what it needs to nourish the puppies, and if she isn’t getting what she needs she will seek it out. If she isn‟t able to get what she needs her body will be depleted because the puppies will take priority.

Choosing the Mate When choosing a mate for your dog you want to consider: Health Coat Any genetic issues in the background that you can find out about If the potential mate has had puppies before or not and the size of those dogs that have already been produced You do not want to risk breeding a female that is a tiny 10 pound Pug. Nor would you necessarily want to breed an 20 pound female to a male that is 14 pounds. A typical, healthy breeding pair would be a 13 pound female to a 19 pound male – the female should always be larger than the male.

Related Dogs It is always a good idea to make sure the pair isn’t related if you are wanting what is often called an “outcross”. It is not a true genetic outcross, but you do not want to accidently breed a brother to a sister. Even well experienced breeders study carefully when we linebreed so that the lines do not inbreed too much. Color comes in later because first and foremost is healthy puppies that are a good example of their breed.

The Heat Process When females start coming into heat the whole process takes about a month. Some females will have a behavior change during this time. Some become more aggressive, some restless, and some more affectionate. Some females will “blow their coat” (will lose a large amount of fur in a short amount of time). When owners notice the change is when the heat is beginning – but it is not time to mate yet. Heat means she is cycling for breeding (her body is getting ready). Then, the female parts are going to start to swell and soon she will begin bleeding. This lasts for about a week.

When to Mate Her & Tips for Successful Mating As the bleeding starts to taper off she is ready to mate in most cases. Now is the time that she is ready to accept a mate.

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If you are able the best way to do this is to take her to the potential sire. You do not want to ever have a female in heat around more than one male, because dogs are able to conceive puppies from more than one sire. This creates quite a mess so you want to avoid that at all cost. When you put the female in the same house, or pen or area with the potential sire of the litter lots of sniffing will occur. If the female isn‟t ready she will start growling at the male. Sometimes she gets over this quickly, and other times it takes a while. If you are not use to breeding you want to stay with them and watch them so no physical accidents or serious fights occur. The male will soon mount the female and get on with the process of mating. If the female is ready to mate she will stand still and if you look very closely you will see her holding her tail off to one side. This is called flagging. If she isn’t quite ready but wants to flirt she will stand and then roll or sit down, anything to get out from under the male. The process will repeat until she is ready to stay standing. This can be minutes, hours or days. Each female has a different personality and some are more stubborn than others. If serious fighting breaks out, separate the pair and wait at least four hours before trying again. Areas used for breeding range from playpens to kitchens and bathrooms, anywhere the owners can stay with their dogs. Please note that if you do wind up in a case where you are breeding to a stud owned by a breeder, they will normally require your female to stay with them for a few days.

The “Tie” What happens next when the female is ready is called a “tie” because the two dogs are indeed tied together. Their bodies are interlocked. Do not EVER try to separate a pair of dogs that are tied in the act of mating, it can be fatal for them both. When a male dog ties to a mate two glands that are high up inside the sheath swell up and physically lock him into place inside of the female. He can remain mounted on top of her, or he can turn where they are tail to tail, or he can stand in sort of a V shape near her. Ties last from about ten minutes up to thirty minutes. On rare occasions we have seen them go longer. When the dogs break the tie, allow your female to retreat and rest.

Frequently Asked Questions Q: Can a Pug become pregnant if a “tie” is not made? A: Yes. Even if the dogs do not become tied, the female may become pregnant

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Q: How do I know which dog to match up with which dog? A: Your desire in color, if you have one, will be a big deciding factor. However, it is important that the female be larger than the male. For example, a 13 pound female with bred with a 18 pound male. One should look at any flaws. For example, if a female does not have a perfect eye set, one should look for a male who does. Female and male should complement each other and one dog who has strong points can make up for weak points in the other. Q: Is it normal for a female in heat to reject a male? A: Yes, it is known to happen. A male will usually want to mount any female in heat. A female may be choosy. Never force your female to mate. Ahead in this book, we will discuss the details of pregnaTesting

Have Done What CERF Testing Means CERF stands for Canine Eye Registration Foundation. CERF was created by a group of owners and breeders who were concerned about the loss of quality in the lives of their dogs due to heritable eye diseases. Working in union with cooperating Veterinary Opthamologists, CERF was established with the goal of eliminating heritable eye disease in dogs. CERF maintains a registry for dogs tested by certified ACVO (American College of Veterinary Opthamologists) opthamologists for major heritable eye disease. Its mission is two-fold. It offers immediate and thorough feedback on the condition of the eyes of any particular dog, which is valuable for breeding information. It also accrues data; all the results are collected and used by researchers to study possible trends. CERF tests for a large variety of conditions and diseases. It will check for 32 different heredity eye diseases: Entropion Ectropion Distichiasis Ectopic cilia Eury/Macroblepharon Cartilage anomaly/eversion Prolapsed gland Corneal dystrophy-epithelial/stromal Corneal dystrophy-endothelial

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Inherited/Pannus Exposure/Pigmentary Keratitis Iris/Ciliary Body Cyst Iris Coloboma Persistent pupillary membrane iris to iris Persistent pupillary membrane all others Iris Hypoplasia Punctate cataract*significance unknown Persistant hyloid artery Vitreous degeneration syneresis Vitreous degeneration ant chamber Retinal dysplasia-folds Choroidal hypoplasia Staphyloma/Coloboma Retinal hemorrhage Micropapilla

What BAER Testing Means BAER stands for: Brain Auditory Evoked Response. This is a test that is safe and painless for the dog to determine if a dog has a hearing loss. A BAER test is performed by placing an insert earphone into the ear canal, while recording needle electrodes are inserted in the skin at the base of each ear. Each ear is tested independently. A series of one thousand clicks are transmitted via the earphone to stimulate a response. The response is detected by the needle electrodes, transmitted to the BAER device, where it is recorded. The click series starts at 70 decibels and is gradually increased to 105 decibels (if hearing is not detected at the lower levels). By recording the response signals from the needle electrodes, the BAER device can then produce a graphic display of the dog's hearing responses. A flat line depicts no response, therefore, no hearing. A wave line of peaks and valley depicts responses and hearing sense in that ear. A dog that is labeled unilateral has hearing in only one ear. Bilateral normal has hearing in both ears.

Artificial Insemination If you plan on using Artificial Insemination you need to start progesterone hormone level tests on the female shortly prior to her anticipated time of accepting the male. Your local veterinarian can do this. These blood tests usually cost a minimum of $30.00 per test and may need to be run every other day until she shows what is called a surge... which means she is ovulating. 277 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Once established that she is ovulating, there will be a window of 2 to 3 days in which to collect the semen and ship it either cooled or frozen and have it implanted in the female. Surgical emplacement of the semen directly into the body of the uterus carries a much higher rate of success than non-surgical deposition of semen into the upper vagina. If you have the male and are collecting and shipping the semen you will need to contact a collection lab ahead of time and have the proper kit on hand. You need to arrange to have a collection and shipping box specially made for this procedure sent to you so that you can properly collect the semen. This will run about $200.00 including the collection and shipping costs. You can bring the female in to your veterinarian about 24 to 29 days after breeding for an ultrasound or manual palpation of the abdomen to assess the success of your efforts.

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Chapter 92: Registering Your Litter â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Choices and Explanation of Registries If you decide to breed your Pug (after very careful consideration and thought) and have a litter of puppies, you must decide before hand what type of registry you will use. If you want AKC registerable puppies, you will want to have AKC registered parents. In the United States, the AKC is the oldest and most prestigious kennel club. They set the standard high and for good reason. Their goal is the betterment of the breed and they do all that they can to make sure that a puppy whom is deemed to be a purebred is, indeed, a purebred. They also have strict standards for a breeder, which pays out in the long run as AKC registered puppies can usually sell puppies at a higher price and many people who are looking for a puppy want an AKC dog, simply because of the value that goes along with the name. Now, do keep in mind that out of all of those people who want an AKC dog, few actually need one. Many are willing to pay more money to have that AKC dog which they will never bring to a dog show and will simply be a loving pet. One important element is that an AKC puppy can be sold with limited registration, which is very important. This means that the new owner cannot breed the dog. Why is this so important? Because: You will know for certain that the new owner is not the owner of a Puppy Mill You will know that the new owner (most likely inexperienced in breeding) will not breed your precious baby.

Your Choices in Dog Registries There are many dog registries in the US beside the AKC, however we will discuss the difference in a moment. The following is a list of your choices of registry: AKC: American Kennel Club

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CKC: Continental Kennel Club (not to be confused with the Canada‟s Canadian Kennel Club) UKC: United Kennel Club APR: America‟s Pet Registry ACA: American Canine Association Registries You Will Most Likely Never Use UKCI: Universal Kennel Club International IAR: International Animals Registry NAPDR: North American Purebred Dog Registry ADBA: American Dog Breeders Association USKC: United States Kennel Club WKC: World Kennel Club FIC: Federation of International Canines

Why AKC is the Preferred Registry Other registries beside the AKC would be acceptable to all people, however the reason that some balk at them is: They do not have the strict standards for breeders that the AKC does, therefore you will have a harder time earning a solid reputation. Now, this is not to say that a CKC breeder is not outstanding! We know of many CKC, APR and other breeders who set very high standards for themselves and breed with ethics, honesty, have a pure love for the Pug breed and do breed for the betterment of the breed. What we are talking about is the overall scope of the label that one will assume when deciding to be an AKC breeder or a CKC (or other) breeder.

The Downside of Other Registries and the Upside of the AKC The registries beside the AKC allow dogs with unknown pedigrees to be registered. The AKC uses a Frequently Used Sire Program. This means that a male dog who produces more than 3 litters in a year or a total of 7 in his lifetime. These male dogs must have a DNA profile on record with the AKC. The AKC randomly performs DNA tests on puppies. The AKC will randomly check to see if the DNA from the puppies matches the DNA of the puppy‟s sire. If the DNA does not match, the puppy (or the whole litter) will be ineligible for registration. The sire can only have 2 strikes on his record and then be permanently banned from AKC registration.

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These strict guidelines cause breeders to be very careful that a female Pug in heat only mates with the stud dog that was intended as the sire, therefore causing careful and selected breeding of purebred dogs. For example, if a male dog is deemed unfit to breed this prevents a breeder from using that dog as a stud (or if an accident occurs and that male dog mates with the female). These rules and others, puts accountability onto the breeder and a breeder who follows these rules is seen, in many eyes, as running a proper breeding program. Other registries only have voluntary compliance. This means that the breeder is not required to have DNA records of any dogs. This removes the accountability. Without the strict rules of the AKC, a dog registered with CKC or others may not be a purebred. Now, this depends on the actual breeder. Some will take advantage of the non-existence of accountability. However, do keep in mind that many CKC, APRI and other breeders hold themselves to very high standards and breed just as ethically as an AKC breeder. If you decide to begin breeding, you should think about starting off as an AKC breeder and you will have a shorter climb to the top. While we personally know of excellent CKC or APRI Pug breeders, we cannot be comfortable in prompting anyone to be anything other than an AKC breeder. Why? Because: The CKC will register any dog as a “purebred” with 3 photos of the dog and 2 signatures from people who pledge the dog is purebred. These very loose guidelines can lead to Pug‟s who are not purebred. The APRI will register a dog that was registered with the CKC; this allowing for the same loose guidelines. This also, can lead to Pug‟s who are not purebred. In the end, it would be your choice, all we can do is suggest and highly recommend anyone thinking of breeding, to do so with AKC registration.

Becoming an AKC Breeder Whether you plan on having 1 litter or think you may want to breed more, to be a responsible breeder, you should be familiar with AKC rules and regulations concerning the sale and registration of AKC-registrable dogs. Before you breed your dog, you should contact the AKC to verify that you have all the correct paperwork, understand how to register a litter, and are able to provide proper documentation to your buyers. To request AKC rules and regulations or order AKC publications, contact AKC Customer Service.

Registering a Litter with the AKC

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A litter is eligible for registration if: It is the result of a mating between an AKC-registered Sire (male) and an AKC-registered Dam (female) of the same breed. It is whelped (born) in the U.S.A, its possession or territories (Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands, Guam, and the Marianna Islands). To register a litter, you should complete an AKC Litter Registration Application. The application requires basic information such as the date of birth, number of males and females born, and the registered names and numbers of the sire and dam. The application must be signed by all of the owners and co-owners of the dam and by one owner of the sire. Failure to complete the application properly will result in processing delays. When completed, the application should be submitted to the AKC with the proper fee. Applications must be mailed. You can also register your litter online. The AKC will mail the litter owner a "litter kit." The litter kit will include an individual registration application for each puppy in the litter, as well as a form for recordkeeping. You should examine the kit thoroughly for errors before issuing the papers to puppy buyers. When you breeds or sell dogs that are AKC-registrable, you must keep accurate, up-to-date records of all transactions involving the dogs. There must be no doubt as to the identity of any individual dog or as to the parentage of a particular dog or litter. The AKC recommends: Permanent identification of each dog, with tattoos, microchips, marking, or tagging. Isolation of female dogs in heat. Segregation of litters whelped near the same date. The AKC requires that the owner of an AKC-registered dog maintain the following information on the dog: Breed Registered name and number (or litter number if not registered) Sex, color and markings Date of birth Names and numbers of sire and dam Name of breeder Name and address of person from whom directly acquired Date of acquisition Date and duration of lease, if any The owner of a dog which is bred must record:

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Date and place of mating Names of persons handling mating Registered name and number of dog to which mated Name and address of its owner The owner of a litter must record: Date of whelping Number of puppies whelped by sex and by color and markings Litter registration number Date of sale, gift or death of each puppy so described Name and address of person acquiring each puppy so described Kinds of papers and date supplied Registered name and number of each puppy registered by breeder Failure to uphold proper record-keeping procedures could lead to penalties, including the suspension of AKC privileges.

What Limited Registration Means with the AKC Limited Registration means that the dog is registered but no litters produced by that dog are entitled for registration. No puppies of a dog for which Limited Registration has been established is eligible for registration.

What Full Registration Means with the AKC Full registration means that the dog may be breed and shown.

Keep in Mind Breeding Pugs is a huge undertaking and one must take the time to think about if they are able to take on all that is necessary. The world is over populated with dogs; therefore morally, breeding Pugs should only be done if one wishes to breed for the betterment of the breed.

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Chapter 93: Pug Pregnancy Overview

Pug puppies have large heads in comparison to their bodies and this can make a cesarean section necessary.

When a Pug is Able to Become Pregnant A Pug may get pregnant as soon as she enters her first heat cycle, as young as 5 months old! If you do not want your Pug to have puppies, it is very important to have her spayed. Spaying also greatly reduces the risks ovarian and mammary cancer. It is recommended to do this before the first heat. If your Pug has not been spayed and a male dog was able to attach to her, she can get impregnated that first time! You may wish to read our Breeding section for more information.

Signs of Pug Pregnancy There may be varying circumstances in which you do not know if your Pug is pregnant. You could have an ultra sound done, however it is usually expensive and you may want to reserve that money for when it is time to see how many pups she will be having. Here are the first signs that your Pug is carrying pups: She will act lethargic, tired and not as energetic as usual Her stomach will enlarge very quickly, this happens much faster than with a human and faster than most other dog breeds Her stomach will be hard Her nipples will grow very large, again, this happens fast She will clean herself more thoroughly than usual and appear to be "nesting"

Morning Sickness Dogs can get “Morning Sickness” when pregnant. This, as you probably know, does not just happen in the morning.

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Both humans and dogs may have this condition in which being pregnant causes nausea. If your pregnant Pug is vomiting quite a bit, changing to a very bland diet for a couple of days usually helps. The bland diet should consist of: Browned beef with the fat drained out Plain, cooked brown rice This should be mixed together and fed in place of puppy food for a day or two to help the Pug regain some control of their tummy woes. Do be sure to switch back to the much needed puppy food after no longer than 3 days, as your pregnant Pug needs the extra nutrition. If vomiting persists, speak to your veterinarian about the possibility of providing anti-nausea medication. This may be needed, as a Pug can quickly become dehydrated if vomiting often.

False Pregnancy A Pug can every now and then have a false pregnancy. What does this mean? For causes unidentified, a female dog can have a disproportion of chemicals which causes her body into "thinking" she is expecting. When this happens, the belly can enlarge, the dog will have enlarged breast tissue and the dog may even begin to produce milk! In about a month or so, these bodily signs will start to weaken and all will return to normal.

The Average Sized Litter The Pug has, on average, 3 to 4 puppies in a litter. Of course, there are exceptions. Some Pugs will have 5-7. Over 7 is very rare.

Feeding A pregnant Pug should be fed a regular diet of a high quality puppy food beginning the moment you know she is expecting. The puppy food, as opposed to dog food, will give her the extra needed nutrition as her body grows the puppies and then prepares to nurse them.

Getting Ready You should have a trusted and reliable veterinarian supervise the entire pregnancy. A pregnant Pug will need extra help in staying healthy through this

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time. Your dog will most likely need to be at the vet clinic or hospital when it is time to give birth unless you are an experienced breeder. It is best to wait 2 weeks or so before the due date, to have an ultra sound done. When doing so, you will know exactly how many puppies are due and if there are any immediate problems that would call for a cesarean section. From time of conception to date of giving birth, your Pug will be pregnant for 9 weeks (63 days is the average time a dog is pregnant, no matter what the breed). At the first signs of pregnancy with your dog, you should bring her to the vet. Everyone who comes into contact with your Pug must be extremely gentle with her. She should be given a warm, soft and comfortable area to rest; if you do not already have this for her. She will spend much time wanting to be in a quiet room, resting up for the big day. She will be eating a lot more than normal, never deny her extra food. Do be sure that you still follow the guidelines of providing healthy food. Your veterinarian will let you know if she will need a cesarean section. He may not be sure and may need to wait until she is in heavy labor to then determine if she does. A vet who will supervise will most likely ask you to bring your Pug into the clinic once she shows signs of entering labor.

Preparing the Birthing Area/ Whelping Box A cardboard box should be used. One side should be cut to make a flap that can open can close. The box should be lined with newspaper. You will want to use many, many layers of newspaper. Why? Because as each layer becomes wet and messy from the birthing process, you can slip those layers out, put them in a trash bag and leave a clean layer there. This birthing box should be in a quiet room of your home where there will be no disturbances, no phones ringing, no people running in and outâ&#x20AC;Śjust a nice quiet area for Mama Pug to give birth, with your assistance. Someone should remain with the Pug at all times.

X-Rays for the Expecting Pug Your vet may recommend X-rays before an expectant Pug is due to deliver. This may be done if there is a question about a possible cesarean section. It is the

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size of the puppies‟ heads and the size of the mother‟s birth canal that will determine a possible C-section. You may also request to have this done, if you wish to be sure of the number of puppies. This is very important. Why? Because during the delivery, the mother cannot have any food or water. If there are any issues and she must have an emergency C-section, it must be done on an empty stomach. Therefore, knowing how many puppies are due is a great help. Once you know that all of the puppies have come out, you can then give the mother much needed food & water, as she will need fast nourishment. X-rays are usually done at the veterinarian‟s office as opposed to ultrasounds.

This is safe for the mother Pug, as the X-ray is done quickly and gives the information that is needed. Look close ! You will see the heads of 4 baby Pugs! Puppy # 3 is hidden behind puppy #2, with just a bit of its head showing. And take a close look at puppy #4… he is facing the X-ray and looks very similar to a human baby!

Pregnancy Step-by-Step Care…Week by Week If your Pug was in heat and successfully bred with a few ties, you can be pretty sure that you are having puppies. Even without a successful tie your dam could still be pregnant.

Right Away:

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It is important to make changes from the 1st day that you believe your Pug is pregnant. On a calendar, count ahead to 56 days from the first breeding and highlight that day. (Yes, a Pug is pregnant for about 62 days, but you want to begin to prepare for labor at 56 days). Plan the time to stay home for about 2 weeks from day 56. NEVER leave your dam alone after day 56, unless you are taking regular temperatures, including during the night, and you know she is not going into labor. As mentioned previously, do not give your pregnant Pug extra calcium. Many owners mistakenly believe that a pregnant dog needs extra calciumâ&#x20AC;ŚJust the opposite is true! Extra calcium supplements is very dangerous to both mother and puppies. Calcium rich snacks should be kept to a minimum (cheese is the most common). The normal amount of calcium that your Pug normally eats (See our Feeding Chapter) is all that your pregnant Pug needs! You will give extra calcium after the puppies are born and during active labor (more on this ahead).

Pregnancy Week 1: Fertilization: You may notice mild morning sickness and personality changes in the dam. Watch for vaginal infection from breeding. Some dams will have a pink discharge, like a very light period. Keep feeding very healthy food, home cooking is recommended. Keep exercising her as usual. Hopefully you and your Pug had a good exercise routine going before she became pregnant. Do not give any medications without vet approval. If you did not worm her prior to mating, be sure to obtain a mild wormer that is made specifically for pregnant dogs. Stop flea treatment and any other insecticide medication. Do not allow her to have any live vaccinations

Pregnancy Week 2 (Days 7 to 14) Between days 7 and 14 days, the cell will start forming into a 4 cell, and will then separate into 64 cells. At this time the Embryo's enter the uterus. Care will be the same as above in: Pregnancy Week 1

Pregnancy Week 3 (Days 14 to 21)

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On about day 18-20, the embryos will implant in the uterus. Care will be the same as week 1 and 2.

Pregnancy Week 4 (Days 21 to 28): Between days 27 and 34, an experienced veterinarian should be able to palpate (feel) the fetus (es) and detect pregnancy. After day 32, fluids increase to protect pups and making palpating not possible. During this time: The fetuses will grow from about 5-10 mm to 14-16 mm, the face takes shape, eyes and spinal cords are developed. The embryos are most susceptible to defects and it is said that even eating a toxic substance at this stage can cause the eyes to not form correctly or cause “cleft palate” . Therefore, for the sake of dam and puppies, take extra precaution that the environment is extremely safe. Your dam may have a clear, odorless vaginal discharge…This is normal. Nipples are really beginning to develop and this is usually when you will notice that “extra” ones that “pop” out and you wonder „Where did those come from!”. Care for this time: Limit jumping and long runs. Limit agility exercise. Every other day, add ¼ cup of cottage cheese to a scrambled egg and feed this to your pregnant Pug. Aside from the above cottage cheese – NO extra calcium foods other than what she has already been eating. If you have not been feeding her a multivitamin and supplement (as recommended in the feeding section, do it

Pregnancy Week 5 ( Days 28 to 35) At this time the fetuses begin to look like dogs; their toes, whiskers, claws all are developing. They have become boy and girl puppies, eyes that were open-now close. (When eyes are developing in the uterus, the eyes are developed in an open position and then they close and remain closed until about 10 days old or so after birth.)

Embryos

are

much

resistant

development

problems.

The dam's weight will begin to increase, and swelling will begin to be noticeable. If you have given a maternity haircut swelling will be easier to see. An x-ray or ultra sound will be possible at this time.

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Care during this time Keep exercise limitations as above in Week 4. Increase her food slightly Add to her regular daily diet a ½ egg every other day

Pregnancy Week 6 (Days 35 to 42) Puppies become colored (skin pigment develops) our Pug‟s nipples will darken and grow. Her tummy will continue to swell, this is often nicknamed: ''Swelly Belly" Care during this time: Continue with the cottage cheese and egg. Continue with the multivitamin but NOT a calcium supplement yet. It is time to prepare and put up the whelping box in a quiet area… try to encourage (but not force) her to sleep there. NEVER let your Dam outdoors without 100% supervision, and use a flashlight at night at this time of pregnancy. Many dogs have been know to bolt to a private outside spot to have their puppies, never to be seen again.

Pregnancy Week 7 (Days 42 to 49) Developed puppies continue to grow. Your Pug may start shedding her tummy hair. Many owners wish to shave the belly at this time, if not you may find lots of shedded fur on your floors. Care during this time: Increase food a bit more (she will become increasingly hungrier). Stop all rough playing and all jumping At the end of this week, days 48 to 50, lower the amount of calcium foods. This will cause her body to go into “calcium storing mode”. Limit cheese and any other foods with calcium.

Pregnancy Week 8 (Days 49 to 57) When your Pug is resting you can sometimes see and feel the pups moving. Pups can be born at any time now, but keeping them in for another week is much healthier, so avoid rough-play.

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But, be prepared! The puppies may come early and could be born at any time now! The production of breast milk (colostrum) may begin as early as day 45. Care during this time: Call your Vet to book x-rays to determine size and number of pups. We suggest that day 56 is the best day to do this. However, all vets differ, so call and ask. Have your whelping area and all supplies ready. Have gas in your car in case of an emergency trip to an animal hospital. Give the dam NO calcium, no raw bones, no sardines, no cottage cheese or cheese, or calcium pills this week. It will be normal for your Pug to be fussy with food this week.

Pregnancy Week 9 (Days 57 to 65) It is time! Are you ready??? Nesting behavior may start or increase...your Pug may seek out a quiet area. Care during this time: Her appetite may decrease Same as the above for week 8â&#x20AC;ŚAnd Start taking her temperature 3 to 5 times a day. Take her temperature as follows: Day 57: 3 times a day Day 58: 4 times a day Day 59: 5 times a day, and once middle of night. Day 60: Every 2 hours, in day, and every 4 hours at night. MAKE SURE the thermometer is put in 4 inches into the rectum, using Vaseline.

The Mucus Plug A pregnant Pug will have a mucus plug on the vaginal area that develops during pregnancy. As she approaches full term, this will begin to shed. It usually dries up.

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It can shed a little or a lot for about 1 week before delivery. Most commonly, it sheds 4-5 days before delivery.

The Mucus Plug…dried up and ready to shed off…delivery is close!

Back to Calcium If your Pug is showing an excessive need to eat during labor, it is then that you should give small amounts of calcium rich food (cheese, etc.). This has been shown to help with labor. However, do keep in mind that not a lot of food should be given during labor…if an emergency C-section needs to be done, your Pug should have an empty stomach. Do give extra calcium after delivery while your Pug is nursing the puppies. Keep reading ahead for details on the actual birthing process….

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Chapter 94: Eclampsia – A Canine Pregnancy Issue

Eclampsia is also called: Milk fever or Puerperal tetany What Eclampsia Is This is an acute, life-threatening disease that is more often seen with lactating dogs which is caused by low blood calcium levels. The lactating dog is especially susceptible to blood calcium depletion because of milk production. The bodies of some lactating dogs cannot keep up with the increased demands for calcium. Dogs with Eclampsia lack the ability to quickly move calcium into their milk without depleting their own blood levels of this mineral. Therefore, this applies to both pregnant Pug and Pugs who have just given birth and are still milking the puppies. Eclampsia most commonly occurs 1-3 weeks after giving birth, but it can even occur during pregnancy. The puppies themselves are not affected as the mother‟s milk appears to be normal during this period.

Signs of Eclampsia Eclampsia is a very serious disorder but fortunately the signs are fairly easy to recognize, especially when coupled with late term pregnancy and/or milk production. Initially, the affected dog will be: Restless Nervous Within a short time, she will: Walk with a stiff gait May be wobbly when walking Appear to be disoriented Eventually, the dog may: Be unable to walk Her legs may become stiff or rigid Have a fever, with body temperature even over 105º F. The respiration rate (number of breaths per minute) will increase. At this point, death can occur if no treatment is given.

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Treatment of Eclampsia If you suspect your pregnant or post-pregnant Pug has eclampsia, seek veterinary attention immediately and prevent the puppies from nursing for at least 24 hours. Feed them with a commercial milk replacer. A veterinarian can confirm eclampsia with a blood test to determine blood calcium levels. Eclampsia can be quickly corrected by your veterinarian through the use of IV calcium supplementation. The dog will be monitored carefully for heart rhythm irregularities that can occur. She will be continued on oral calcium supplements, if necessary. If the Pug responds well to treatment, in some cases, the puppies may be gradually allowed to nurse again. If your Pug has had eclampsia, be sure to consult with your veterinarian before allowing the puppies to nurse again.

Prevention of Eclampsia Too much calcium during the pregnancy and increase the odds of a female Pug developing eclampsia. This is usually due to too many calcium supplements. There is a complex way the body maintains the proper amount of calcium in the blood. The body is constantly adding calcium to bones and then removing it, as needed. This is regulated by a hormone produced by the parathyroid gland, called parathyroid hormone. If a dog receives increased amounts of calcium during pregnancy, her body's production of parathyroid hormone greatly decreases. When the dog suddenly needs large amounts of calcium for milk production, the system is not ready to start removing it from the bone. This is because it takes some time for the parathyroid gland to start producing the hormone again. Because of the lack in parathyroid hormone, the blood calcium level suddenly drops, and produces the signs of eclampsia. So, adequate amounts of calcium need to be given during pregnancy, but not enough to slow down the production of parathyroid hormone. This means calcium supplements are generally not recommended. Also, it is important for the calcium and phosphorus in the diet to be at the correct ratio of 1:1 (i.e.; 1 part calcium to 1 part phosphorus). Vitamin D must also be present in adequate amounts. Once a dog has had eclampsia, there is a higher chance that she will also have it with future litters if preventive steps are not taken. Be sure to work closely with your veterinarian if your dog has had eclampsia in the past and is pregnant again.

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Chapter 95: Mastitis – A Canine Pregnancy/Post Pregnancy Issue

Female dogs who have just given birth are sometimes prone to the condition of mastitis, this is where the milk gland becomes inflamed. Mastitis can also occur within dogs that have just had a fake pregnancy. This is a serious condition which can come on quickly. In some cases, it can only take ½ day for symptoms to progress.

The Symptoms: Her milk glands feel hot to the touch Her milk glands may be very hard It may cause your Pug pain when they are touched Her milk will quite often also be off colored and puppies could show signs of malnutrition (they will not be gaining weight each day) She will not eat as much or may stop eating completely She will be extremely thirsty Her body temperature will rise to approximately 105 degrees Fahrenheit She may vomit She may become aggressive toward the puppies

Why This can Happen Mastitis in female post-pregnancy Pugs can be caused by many things but the most common is that an injury of some sort had happened to her teats or udder. Sometimes, it can be something as simple as the flow of milk being disrupted. These types of injuries often happen as a result of the puppy‟s claws being too sharp and scratching or cutting her. You can prevent this from happening by ensuring the nails of the puppies are kept trimmed neatly and the sharp points removed.

Treatment It is best to bring you Pug to the veterinarian. If you cannot get to the veterinarian immediately, (if it is 2 AM and there is no after-office hours, etc.) there are some steps you should immediately take: Each hour - Apply warm water to her milk glands or a warm olive oil solution and at the same time as doing this try to gently remove any contaminated milk by squeezing her teat between your forefinger and thumb. By doing this you are enabling her milk to flow freely and stopping the poison produced by mastitis from absorbing into her blood stream.

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Chapter 96: Giving Birth Naturally Entering Labor

You will know that your Pug is going to have puppies within 24 hours by knowing when her internal temperature drops below normal. Have your Pug in an area where she feels safe and comfortable. Use a rectal or oral thermometer but use it rectally. You should lubricate it will and insert it about a half inch. Leave it for three minutes. Your dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s normal temperature should be between 101 and 102.5 Fahrenheit (38.3 to 39.17 Celsius). When your Pug's temperature drops below 100 F (37.77 C), she should deliver the Pug pups in less than twenty-four hours. She may also vomit and cry during this stage of labor. While it is difficult to hear and watch your Pug crying, you must remain strong for her. She will need your gentle, kind words of encouragement. While crying is normal, do keep a close eye on the following signs of danger:

Warning Signs If you do not have experience in helping a Pug give birth, it is recommended to have your dog give birth at a clinic, however if you decide to have your Pug give birth at home, do please watch out for these warning signs. You will want to bring her to the vet ASAP if: She has been pregnant for more than 70 days It has been 24 hours since her temperature dropped and she is vomiting and/or crying but no babies have come out 1 puppy came out, but it has been more than 2 hours without any more coming out (and you know she has more) She appears to be in an incredible amount of pain

Giving Birth If she will not be having a Cesarean the birth should take place as follows: Stage 1 of Labor: During the first stage of labor the cervix will dilate and contractions begin. This element of Pug pregnancy can be extremely painful to the dog. She may be uncomfortable, restless, quite possibly pacing, shivering panting and may cry.

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Your Pug may not want to eat and she may even vomit. This is the most vital time to have her in a safe, soft place. This is the longest stage of labor, lasting six to eighteen hours. When this stage is complete, your Pug is almost there! During this period keep the mother‟s environment quiet and calm. Stage 2 of Labor: As this stage progresses the water usually breaks and a white fluid is passed. Sometimes the fluid will have a tint of color. The water may be expelled after each puppy or randomly during labor. Pug puppies will usually be pushed out every half-hour or so after ten to thirty minutes of forceful straining. If you see the rear legs of a puppy protruding from your Pug, you must help by gently pulling the puppy in a downward and rearward arcing motion. Gently! Pug puppies are very fragile and easily hurt. It is normal for many puppies to be born feet first or sideways. As the pups deliver, the mother will lick the puppy clean and bite off the umbilical cord. It is important to let the mother do this. The rough licking of the mother stimulates the puppies to breathe and it gets their circulation going. It is normal for the mother to eat the afterbirth tissues. If the mother does not bite the umbilical cord, you will need to cut it by using sterile thread. Stage 3 of Labor: Once all the puppies have been born the dog enters this third stage of labor during which time the uterus contracts fully, expelling any remaining placenta, blood and fluid. Just let your Pug stay close to her puppies as you clean up. Puppies should be marked (a drop of “Whiteout” works well) and then weighed. Remember, if it was a rare occurrence for a Pug to give birth and have healthy puppies, this breed would not be around! Archaeologists estimate that the Pug has been with us at least since 600 AD. Therefore, with today's medical technology, your canine companion should make it through just fine.

Bleeding A female will have bleeding and discharge for up to 10 days after giving birth. This is normal IF the bleeding/discharge lessens each day. By day 12, any bleeding and/or discharge should have stopped. Take your Pug to the vet ASAP if: Bleeding is excessive Bleeding increases as the days go by There is a foul odor coming from the blood or discharge Your Pug seems to be very weak and/or will not eat

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After the Birth Even if the sire (father) has been a perfect “dad” through the pregnancy, do keep the male away from the puppies until they are weaned. Newspapers should be taken away and soft, clean baby blankets put down. Under the blankets, a heating pad should be placed. There should be areas in the box that are a warm 80-85°F , so that the puppies may move from warm area to a bit cooler area as they wish. The flap of the box should be closed, so that Mama and puppies feel safe and secure. You will want to keep a very close eye on all puppies. If a puppy is not able to receive enough milk from Mama, you will probably need to bottle fed the pup. Some puppies may need to be gently moved over to Mama. Be sure to weight the puppies each day. Every day there should be a weight increase. You can use a kitchen scale to weigh the pups, as they will only be 5 to 8 ounces. It will work best to place a soft cloth on the scale and then place the puppy inside. If the coloring of the puppies are very similar, you may find it helpful to mark the pups. This can be done by using “White-Out” and putting a small dot on each puppy in a different area that you will easily be able to identify. The main elements that you must look with newborns are: Are the puppies each gaining weight each day? If not, the veterinarian should be called. In most cases, this means that you will need to bottle feed the puppy so they he or she receives enough nourishment. Look for any signs of Hypoglycemia with the puppies. (Information found here) This can develop very, very quickly. Therefore, a check on the puppies should be done each hour for the 1st week, every other hour for the 2nd and 3rd week and every 3 hours on the 4th week. By Week 4, Mama will begin to need a bit of time away from the puppies; it is suggested to add another box to the whelping box. Cut away a section so that the puppies may begin to roam from Mama to the 2nd “room” to play and begin to learn about toys, etc.

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Chapter 97: Cesarean Section Tests Done Before a Cesarean Section

Preoperative

tests depend in part on the age and general health of the expecting Pug. In younger otherwise healthy females, minimal tests are needed. Of course the veterinarian must be certain the Pug is pregnant and near full term. This is usually accomplished through ultrasound. Often simple blood tests, such as a packed cell volume or complete blood count (CBC), will be done prior to anesthesia. In older or unhealthy Pugs it may be necessary to perform a routine blood count, serum biochemical tests, a urinalysis, and possibly a chest X-ray or EKG prior to anesthesia. These recommendations vary on a case-by-case basis, and depend on the overall health of the female Pug at the time of the surgery.

Anesthesia Needed As in human patients, the procedure in dogs requires significant anesthesia. Spinal anesthesia is more difficult to perform in dogs. Furthermore, the Pug will not cooperate and lie still for surgery even if all pain is relieved. Thus general anesthesia is needed to induce pain relief, unconsciousness and relaxation. In the usual case, the dog will receive a pre-anesthetic sedative-analgesic drug to help her relax, a brief intravenous anesthetic to allow placement of a breathing tube in the windpipe, and subsequently inhalation (gas) anesthesia in oxygen during the actual surgery. If a Cesarean is performed, your Pug may experience fur loss as a result of the anesthetics. This is a normal reaction and in time, the fur will grow back.

How this is Done Following anesthesia, the female Pug is placed on a surgical table, lying on her back. The hair is clipped over the lower abdomen, the skin is scrubbed with surgical soap to disinfect the area and a sterile drape is placed over the surgical site. The veterinarian then performs a midline incision similar to that used to spay a female; however, the incision line will be relatively longer. A scalpel is used to incise the skin of the lower abdomen and then open the abdominal cavity. The uterus will be exposed and then incised to remove the puppies. The puppies are handed to an assistant who clears the airway, stimulates breathing, and gives medications if necessary. The uterus may be contracted with a hormonal drug and then the incision is closed with stitches that dissolve over time. If the Pug is to be spayed at the same time, the abdominal incision is then closed with one or two layers of self-

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dissolving stitches. The outer layer of skin is closed with sutures or surgical staples that must be removed in about 10 to 14 days.

How Long this Procedure Takes The procedure takes about 45 minutes to one hour to perform in most cases, including the needed time for preparation and anesthesia

The Risks The overall risk of this surgery is very low. The major risks are those of general anesthesia, bleeding (hemorrhage), infection (peritonitis), post-operative infection and wound breakdown (dehiscence) over the incision. Overall complication rate is low, but serious complications can result in death or the need for additional surgery.

Aftercare Post-operative medication should be given to relieve pain, which is judged in most cases to be moderate and can be effectively eliminated with safe and effective pain medicines. Generally young dogs act normally within 24 to 48 hours and are released one or two days after surgery. In some situations, the pet is released the same day of surgery. The home care requires reduced activity until the stitches are removed in 10 to 14 days. Since the puppies are allowed to nurse the dog should be given increased amounts of food to maintain her energy needs. Puppy food should be fed to the Mama, and not dog food. She will need the extra nutrients in order to produce milk for her puppies. Fresh water should always be available and the pups should be confined and kept in the "nest" when the female is taken out-of-doors for mild exercise and elimination activities. The incision line and the mammary glands should be inspected daily by the pet owner for signs of redness, discharge, swelling, or pain.

Staying in the Animal Hospital The typical stay is one or two days but some Pugs are sent home the same day of surgery, depending on how they are doing.

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Chapter 98: Pyometra Overview

Pyometra is the most common uterus disease seen in female dogs who have not been spayed. Pyometra is an important disease to be aware of because it can come on very quickly and can be fatal when not treated.

Cause of Pyometra Pyometra is a result of hormonal and structural changes in the uterus lining of a female Pug. This can happen at any age, whether she has bred or not, and whether it is her 1st or 10th heat (although it becomes more common as the dog gets older). The main risk period for a female is for eight weeks after heat has ended. Normally during this period, the cervix, which was open during her heat, begins to close, and the inner lining begins to adapt back to normal. However, cystic hyperplasia of the endometrium (which means the inner lining of the uterus) known as cystic endometrial hyperplasia (CEH) - may occur at this time for some dogs, as an inappropriate response to progesterone levels in the dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s body. Under these circumstances, bacteria (especially E. coli) that have migrated from the vagina into the uterus find the environment favorable to growth, especially since progesterone also causes mucus secretion, closes the cervix (preventing uterine drainage), and decreases uterine contractility (the ability for the uterus to contract and become smaller again). The condition of the cervix is a major factor in the severity of the condition. If the cervix is open, the infected material can leave the body, and this is far easier and safer to treat. This is known as open pyometra. If the cervix is fully closed, there is no discharge from the vulva, and like in appendicitis, the uterus may rupture and pus escapes into the abdomen, causing peritonitis and possible rapid death. This is known as closed pyometra.

Symptoms The most obvious symptom of open pyometra is: A discharge of pus from the vulva in a female that has recently been in heat.

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However, symptoms of closed pyometra are less obvious. Symptoms of both types include: Vomiting Lack of appetite Depression (moping around and not wanting to participate in normal activities) Increased drinking and urinating Fever is seen in less than a third of females with pyometra. Closed pyometra is a more serious condition than open pyometra not only because there is no outlet for the infection but also because a diagnosis of closed pyometra can easily be missed.

Diagnosis Upon seeing any of the signs, bring your Pug to the veterinarian right away. The vet should perform several tests: Blood tests – this will show dehydration, increased white blood cell count, and increased alkaline phosphatase. X-rays – This will show an enlarged uterus Ultrasound - This will confirm the presence of a fluid filled uterus.

Treatment The most important aspect of treatment of pyometra is quick action. Females are often septic and in shock. Intravenous fluids and antibiotics should be given immediately. The best treatment is an emergency spay to remove the infected organ. Some advances have been made in treating pyometra with long-term antibiotics and an agent to cause contraction of the uterus and expulsion of the pus.

Surgery Spaying completely and promptly removes the infection, prevents uterine rupture and peritonitis, and of course prevents recurrence, in most cases. Spayed animals do very rarely develop pyometra in the uterine stump. Spaying is the most effective and safest treatment.

Alternative treatments There is another treatment option for females that the owner wishes to breed. We personally do not recommend this and feel that the dog’s life is should not be compromised at all for the sake of breeding.

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Prostaglandin F2-alpha (PGF2-α) and long-term antibiotics can be used to expel the pus from the uterus and treat the infection. PGF 2-α stimulates the uterus to contract, and requires at least 3-5 days to completely remove the infected material. This treatment should only be used with an open pyometra, because otherwise uterine rupture may occur. Less than 30 percent of females with closed pyometras are successfully treated in this way. Use of PGF 2-α should only be considered in females that are medically stable due to the length of time treatment takes. These dogs should be bred at the next estrus cycle and then spayed afterward, because 70 percent will develop pyometra again in the next two years. Stump Pyometra Stump pyometra is a serious health condition that may occur in females that underwent the spaying but the remaining stump of the uterus becomes infected and filled with fluid. The symptoms are similar to those of true pyometra. The risk of this condition is significantly reduced if no uterine or ovarian tissue remains from the original spaying. In this case, a second surgery would be performed to remove the stump.

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Chapter 99: Bottle Feeding a Pug Newborn

The

newborn Pug is completely dependent on its Mama, and will be completely dependent on you if the Mama rejects the puppy or if the puppy is too small to get past its littermates to get to the Mama. For the first few week of a newborn‟s life, it is the mother Pug who stimulates the puppy to eliminate, as the puppy‟s body does not do this on its own. The eyes of a newborn Pug will be closed until week 2 or 3. A puppy will be able to hear at about the 3 week mark also. There may be several situations in which you may find yourself having to bottle feed a baby Pug dog. Sometimes the mother does not or is not able to provide the puppy with milk. There are also instances in which a Pug puppy is orphaned, left alone, only with you to count on to provide enough nutrients to stay alive. Most puppies will feed from their Mama for 7 weeks, 8 at the most. During the last couple of weeks, they may slowly cut down and make the slow, yet steady change over to dog food. However, this topic will discuss bottle feeding a Pug dog from birth.

How Often A newborn Pug dog should be bottle fed every 2 hours. This is done around the clock, not just during the day. Therefore, the pup should be drinking 8 times in a 24 hour day.

What to Feed Some may mistakenly believe that one should feed milk to a puppy. This can be very dangerous. Puppies will need a milk replacement liquid. Be sure to use a high quality formula; this can be obtained from your veterinarian or he or she will be able to recommend the appropriate one for your Pug puppy.

The Bottles

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You will also need very small bottles, having at a box full is suggested. This will ensure that you always have some ready, some being cleaned and some ready to go, should you misplace one or two. The bottle should be specifically created for the main purpose of feeding newborn dogs.

How Much The best way to know when you have fed your Pug puppy enough milk replacement is to notice his or her tummy. It will round out and look a bit full when the pup has had enough. However, it is very important to not feed the puppy too much. He or she will be eating about out 8-12 times per day; there is no need to overfill the dog and it may lead to health problems. Once the Pug puppy is 4 weeks old, you can lower the feedings to 4 or 5 per day. By 6 weeks, the pup should be having 2 or 3 bottle feedings along with a soupy mixture of dog food and water which will be the weaning process. By 7 or 8 weeks, you will be just about done and in the middle of strongly encouraging weaning and eating of regular puppy dog food. You will want to weigh your pup and then follow these guidelines: For every 1/4 of a pound a Pug pup weighs, you will need to feed the puppy at least 1 ounce per day. For example, if your puppy is 1 pound, an estimate of how much to feed the dog would be 4 ounces. Do keep in mind that this is an estimate. Each dog is very different. If your Pug's tummy rounds out and the puppy seems to have plenty of energy, he or she is most likely receiving enough. If the puppy seems weak and has difficulty feeding, your dog's veterinarian will be able to tell you if the pup is getting the correct amount of nutrition.

How to Bottle Feed a Pug Newborn Keeping in mind that you will need to feed the puppy every 3 hours, you will want to prepare a bottle or 2 at a time. The formula must be mixed extremely well; having any lumps will not only possibly clog the bottle, but can be hurtful to the dog's digestive system if it gets past the holes in bottle tip and into the dog. Some bottles will not have any holes, so that you may make ones necessary for your particular breed of dog. For the Pug, it is recommended to use a sterilized needle to make 3 holes. However, the goal is that once the bottle is shaken and held upside down that only 2 to 3 drops come out. Make 1 hole at a time until 305 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

you

see

that

this

correct

amount

milk

coming

out.

If too much comes out, your Pug puppy could choke inhaling it, and if not enough comes out, your puppy will swallow air, thus leading to potentially painful stomach gas. The temperature of the milk should be room temperature. Be sure not to heat the formula up, this can cause great injury to the puppy. While you may be tempted to hold the Pug puppy as you would a child, the dog should be allowed to lay down on its tummy and feed.

After Each Feeding You will need to burp your Pug. This is done in the same fashion as with a baby. You will hold the dog with its tummy against your chest and shoulder. Gently pat the puppy‟s back until you hear a healthy burp come out. Newborn puppies have no idea of the bowel elimination process. Normally the mother dog stimulates this for her puppy. If you are on your own, taking care of a Pug puppy, you will need to do this. Using a soft, clean wash cloth the outside anus area of the puppy must be gently massaged. This will trigger a bodily response that will cause the puppy to eliminate. Since this can be quite messy this can be done over newspapers which can then be quickly thrown away.

To Recap These 7 or 8 weeks of bottle feeding your Pug puppy will be very busy for you and very important to the health of your dog. With love, patience and time, in just 8 short weeks you will have a rambunctious Pug puppy running around your home. If you have any concerns about the feeding of the pup or other health questions, speak to your dog's veterinarian right away. A newborn puppy cannot afford to wait if he or she is having health issues.

Tube Feeding There may be times when a pup is not strong enough to bottle feed and must be fed through a feeding tube. We do not recommend that anyone attempt this on their own for the first time…as great harm can be done to the pup. We recommend that you work with your veterinarian if a pup must be tube fed. It is vitally important to keep an extremely close eye on all newborns. You are responsible for knowing if they are receiving enough nutrients via the dam. Keep in mind that just because all pups gather around the dam, does not mean that a certain puppy is able to drink from her. Other pups may be pushing his or her mouth away…the puppy may not be strong enough to suckle, etc.

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The method to know for sure is to check the weight of each of your puppies each day. When you do not see a weight gain, you will then do another test to check for dehydration. For example, in a recent litter, the puppies seemed to be doing just fine, they were between 2 and 4 ounces. However, after a couple of days, some were getting larger than others. It was at this point that it was immediately checked to see if smaller pups were dehydrated. And it is a good idea to do the following to all puppies, just to make sure. It is a simple test in which you will gently pull the skin on the back of the puppy‟s neck. If it does not “snap” back, this means dehydration. If you have a puppy who is dehydrated and is not gaining weight, bottle feeding may not be viable due to the pup‟s small size. In cases like this, you may need to tube feed. NOTE: Your veterinarian must be the one to give you the go-ahead to tube feed. If it is done incorrectly it can be fatal…and if the puppy is not receiving nourishment it is fatal. While it is your veterinarian who will supply the supplement and supplies and give you instructions on how to tube feed, we will give you the basic guidelines ahead. The supplies that will be used are: Catheter tubing A syringe Supplement formula For tiny newborns, the tube size is often 1/16 of an inch, cut in half. Using a larger size can be fatal, causing internal damage to the puppy. One end of the tubing will be carefully worked down the pup‟s mouth into their stomach and the other end will be connected to a syringe which holds the supplement formula. Giving a puppy too much liquid at a feeding can be fatal. Most often 1 cc is given every 2 hours. Starting off with 2 cc‟s can be harmful, you must take care! In most cases, and again you must check with your veterinarian, 1 cc is given every 2 hours. On the following day, you can then increase the amount by ½ cc, giving a total of 1 and ½ cc at a time, every 2 hours. A newborn must be fed every 2 hours, around the clock. This means that you will need to wake the pup to eat. And yes, it means that you will need to wake up every 2 hours, through the night. As the puppy becomes stronger and is growing in size, the time span can slowly be increase until you reach 4 hours between feedings. You will also be very slowly increasing the amount of solution, by ½ cc at a time, BUT never giving more than a total of 2 and ½ cc‟s at a time. This will

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be done until the puppy is strong enough to feed from the dam (usually around the age of 3 weeks old). In some cases, such as when a dam refuses to feed the pup or if the dam did not survive the delivery, etc….you will need to feed the puppy yourself until it is time to wean. In some cases, the puppy will grow strong and big enough to switch from tube feeding to bottle feeding. You veterinarian will tell you when or if this is to happen. When tube feeding, as the puppy grows and becomes stronger, it can help to try and bottle feed for some of the feedings. Even if the puppy has a hard time, allow some time for the pup to suckle so that they can build up those needed muscles. If they are not able to drink the needed amount from the bottle (starting at 1 cc and not going more than 2 cc‟s before the age of 3 weeks), you can then go right back to the tube feeding. The hardest and most crucial element of tube feeding is when you must work the tubing down into the newborn‟s stomach without causing harm. While each veterinarian has their own method, we always lay a newborn on a table, on top of a blanket. Then, a measurement is taken from the pup‟s nostril to their last rib. Using that measurement, a mark is made on the tube so that we know how far to put the tubing down. Shockingly, some veterinarians will simply tell you to “feed the tubing down until you can‟t go any further”. We strongly believe this is very very dangerous and should not be done. It is an easy step to make a mark on the tube so that you can stop when the tube has been fed down to that mark. The tubing will go down a bit easier if you rinse the tubing in warm water first, as it will soften the tubing. Do NOT use hot water! Once the tubing has been put in water to make it softer, the syringe is put on the catheter. Then, it is squeezed until formula comes out by slowly compressing on the syringe. Draw up slightly more formula into the syringe and catheter than is needed for the puppy. Place the puppy on a towel in your lap with the head and chest on a slight upward incline. Hold the back of the puppy‟s head gently. Open the pup‟s mouth with that same hand. Direct the tube into the front of the mouth (NOT from the side). Do not force the tube to go in. The puppy will reflexively swallow when the tube is at the esophagus. If the animal does not swallow and you force the tube, it could end up in the trachea which is very dangerous. Once the puppy swallows, the tube should slide easily to the point you have marked. Once it is in the proper location, slowly depress the plunger on the syringe. If the puppy coughs or gags when you start to depress the plunger, withdraw the feeding tube and start over. You may have the tube in the trachea. If you continue to inject the formula, the animal may get aspiration pneumonia or suffocate.

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If you find that the puppy is gagging too much, you can very carefully take the tubing out and put a tiny bit of water on the syringe. If the water goes in, you will know that you have the right spot and can then put in the formula. Tube feeding is heart-wrenching, because as you are working so hard to keep the puppy alive, the puppy will be fighting as they will not want to be tube fed. Because a puppy will be fighting against you, it is important to have all supply within hand‟s reach before you start. The tube should be withdrawn after feeding HALF of the required meal and the puppy should be burped by gently patting the puppy on his or her back. After burping, reinsert the tube and feed the rest of the meal. Burp the puppy again once all of the formula has been given. After the feeding, the puppy‟s abdomen should appear rounded and full. If the puppy regurgitates or vomits the food, do not feed it again at that meal. If it occurs for 2 meals in a row, contact your veterinarian. When you are done with a feeding, the tube is slowly taken out. Then the puppy must be stimulated to have a bowel movement and to urinate. The puppy can then be given to the dam to see if the dam will do what must be done…She should immediately lick the puppy‟s anus and genital area to stimulate the pup to go to the bathroom. It is very very important that if the dam does not do this and the puppy does not go to the bathroom , that you do this ! One method is to take a baby wipe and put it around your forefinger. You can then flicker your finger gently, back and forth on the puppy‟s anus area. This should cause the tiny pup to eliminate. If it does not, you must then carefully flush the anus. This is done by putting together a few drops of water and a drop of soap. Mix it carefully. Then you can take ½ cc of the soap and water mixture and using a piece of catheter tubing, BARELY put in into the pup‟s anus, and then dispense the ½ cc solution of soap and water. This will most often work. In the very rare case that this 2 nd method does not work, you must take the pup to the veterinarian or closest animal hospital right away. We, personally, have never seen this 2 nd method not work….And the 1st method of flickering with the baby wipe should be tried first.

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Chapter 100: Weaning a Puppy Overview

A Pug puppy is ready to leave its Mama at 8 weeks.

However, the puppy will go through a gradual weaning process from Mama‟s milk to puppy food. This is called the weaning stage.

At What Age Weaning Begins At a certain point, you will notice that Mama‟s does not have as much milk as usual and that the puppies are not drinking as much. This usually happens beginning at week 4. It you are in charge of the weaning process, it is up to you to make sure that it is done correctly. If someone has no experience in this department and does not carefully follow the step-by-step procedures of this weaning process, the Pug being weaned will be in danger. Not only because the pup must have the proper amount of nutrients but also because early weaning can result in medical issues later . A pup that is weaned too early and does not have a smooth transition from mother's milk to dog food can end up with food allergies. Allergies can become a big issue for the owners of the dog; as they must be extremely vigilant in regards to what the dog eats, most likely for the rest of his life. If you are owner to both mom and pup, be very careful when you feed the mother. A puppy can eat her food out of curiosity and end up with a very upset tummy at the least. It is the water dish that poses the most danger. Pug puppies are so small from just 4 to 9 ounces at newborn and growing every day; and can very easily drown in the water. If it seems unlikely, think again. All a pup must do is play around, crawl on top of its brothers and sister and end up in the dish. To take all correct precautions, you must keep the adult dog food and water away! Only bring it to the mother dog when it is feeding time and keep your eyes on the puppies at all times.

How to Wean Anywhere from 4 weeks to 6 weeks, the puppies will begin drinking less from Mama and slowly become accustomed to puppy food.

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The adjustment of weaning a Pug puppy from Mamaâ&#x20AC;&#x;s milk to puppy food is a huge step. You may wish to offer a milk/cereal substance before going to puppy food. Mixing lactose-free milk with human baby cereal works well. At this fragile stage, there is no need to measure. Feed the puppy at least 4 times per day and if the puppy seems satisfied and is gaining weight, you are giving them enough.

The next step, closer to the 6 week age is to make a slow switch to puppy food. If you are using dry dog food you must add water to it so that it forms an easy to eat mushy consistency. When first weaning, the food should be similar to a soup. Each week or so, you can add less water until you find that you do not need to put any additional liquid in the dish. While you are paying attention to feeding the Pug puppies, this will give their mother a good opportunity to leave for a bit. She will be very exhausted and in need of some alone time; much like a human mother who just needs to get away for a few moments to regroup. As time goes by, the weaning puppies will get used to having their mother gone for a longer and longer period of time. Simultaneously, the weaning pups will become more adjusted to your presence. This will continue on like a domino effect, until they are completely ready to move out on their own.

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Chapter 101: Milestones for the Pug Newborn 3 Weeks Old

Pups should start gaining right away - 5 to 20 grams the first day is expected. Keep an eye out for puppies who's weight goes down. Pups should double their birth weight when they are about 10 days old. Remember the nutritional requirements of the Mama while nursing is very important. Remain feeding the Mama puppy food and supplying supplements. Fresh water must be constantly available, as not enough fluids can lower her milk supply. In the first 3 to 4 weeks, the Mama will be the sole caretaker for the puppies. She will feed them and clean them. If a Pug puppy is having a hard time getting to the dam's tummy for milk or is constantly pushed away by its litter mates, you can remove the other pups for a little while and allow that puppy to have mama all to themselves. You may also find that you have a puppy who needs to be bottle fed. Not receiving constant nutrition can quickly send a puppy into Hypoglycemia ( a fast drop in blood sugar level). Signs are weakness, weight loss, fainting, confusion...and if not treated, coma and ultimately this is fatal. Keep puppy nails trimmed so they do not tear at the Mama with sharp claw tips. 3 Weeks old is an important milestone! At 3 weeks the pups are becoming more active and able to walk around. At 3 weeks, a Pug can begin hearing. At 3 weeks, eyes will now be open, as well. The door from the whelping box should now lead into another box where the puppies can walk around and play. Be sure to line the boxes with newspaper. The 1st de-worming must be done; do keep in mind that this must be approved by your veterinarian, even if you plan to do the de-worming yourself. Why? Because the veterinarian must evaluate each puppy to see if they are big enough, strong enough and healthy enough for the de-worming.

4 Weeks Old Now, the puppies will have their eyes open and can begin to venture out of the whelping boxes to begin exploring the home. It is best to set up newspaper that is about 2 times the size of the whelping box and have this right next to the outside of the box.

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It is important to keep the bedding in the whelping box clean and smelling fresh, however, only change the newspaper once in a while. Why? Because a puppy will learn by the scent on the paper that it is the area in which they should eliminate urine and feces. They learn to go on the newspaper to eliminate very quickly, usually by week 3 or 4 they have developed their sense of smell, and will start to understand where to go. A pup this age is much too young to bring outside. At this age, the puppies are beginning to play a little with their littermates, are becoming more aware of their environment, and slightly vocal. A pup at this age may try to bark a bit. At 4 weeks, you can begin to offer dog toys to a newborn Pug puppy. At this time teeth can begin to erupt & they can begin to lap liquids. A very shallow water dish should now be made available to them. If a de-worming was not done at 3 weeks, it must be done at 4 weeks. Make sure that your dog's veterinarian approves. This will depend on the weight of the puppy and the pup's health.

5 Weeks Old The puppy will now be eating a very small amount of puppy food, softened with warm water to create a "mush". Once a pup starts eating solid food, and the mother no longer cleans it up because they can walk at this point too, be sure to keep the whelping box very clean. This will prompt the puppies to use the newspaper that is placed outside the box to eliminate. The puppies should all be held and touched each day. This is very important socialization, that allows a puppy to become used to the human touch, human noises, being washed down with a warm soft washcloth, hearing regular household noises and being cuddled. This allows that puppy to then go on to be a happy, well socialized family member in its new home. The 2nd de-worming may be done now. As with the 1st, always wait for your vet to approve this, as the exact time to do this will be determined by the pup's weight, health and progress

Six Weeks Old When a Pug is 6 weeks old, the puppy has fully developed its sight and hearing. The puppy is however, a bit too young to respond to its name. A Pug of this age will be very curious and want to explore their "world". Weaning will be slowing down quite a bit. The transition from weaning to eating puppy food must be done very slowly and in little steps. A sudden change in diet can trigger Hypoglycemia. At this time, the puppy food should still be a "mush"; 313 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

however you can add a bit less water. To help a puppy stop going to Mama for nutrients, one may opt to put a weaning "bra" on the Mama. This will allow the mother to spend play time with the puppies and not be giving milk all of the time. A 6 week old Pug should be encouraged to walk around the home, investigating new sights, sounds and smells. The puppy should still be cleaned by the owner with a soft & warm wash cloth. Although, it is almost time to begin giving regular baths!

6 to 7 Weeks Old At 6 to 7 weeks, the Pug puppy should receive its first shot. This will be a combination shot vaccine for Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza and Coronavirus. The 7 week old Pug is just about ready to go home to his or her new family.

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Chapter 102: The True Age of Your Pug Overview

That old saying that a dog ages 7 years for each human year was a simple method of estimating the aging process of a dog. However, the key word here is estimate. . There are over 300 different dog breeds and each ages differently. Small breed dogs, such as the Pug age differently than other types of dogs.

How Old Is Your Pug? Dogs age much differently, the largest factor being their size. Therefore, the Pug, being a medium breed dog, will have their own timetable of aging. A good point to remember is that just like humans, as time goes on medical discoveries allows the canine to live longer. Back in the 1920's a dog generally lived 7 human years. Now, the Pug's life span is generally 14 to 15 years and many Pugs live even longer. The way in which you care for your Pug will affect your dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s lifespan. The following is an age chart, showing the age equivalent of the Pug in comparison to human years:

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Age Pug

1= 5= 9= 13=

= Human Years

Age Pug

5 30 52 68

2= 6= 10= 14=

= Human Years

Age Pug

12 40 56 72

3= 7= 11= 15=

= Human Years

Age Pug

18 44 60 76

4= 8= 12= 16=

= Human Years

22 48 64 80

From birth to 1 or 2 years, your Pug will be a puppy From 2 years to 4 years, your Pug will be an adolescent; though technically will be an adult. This means switching to adult dog food. From 4 years to 8 years, your Pug will be an adult From 8 years on, your Pug will be a senior. Your veterinarian may recommend geriatric screening earlier, perhaps at age 7, depending on your dog.

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Chapter 103: Signs of Aging Overview

Knowing when your Pug is a "senior" will help you make appropriate changes in diet, exercise and health examination schedules to ensure a long, healthy life for your Pug. A Pug is technically considered to be a senior dog at the age of 8. However, depending on your Pug‟s health, your veterinarian may recommend “senior” changes a bit earlier or a bit later.

Changes to Expect as Your

Pug

Becomes a Senior These are the signs to look out for, that will let you know that your Pug is growing older and their needs will be changing. Slowing down - You may notice that your dog slows down some with aging. This isn't always the case, but look for subtle changes in how your Pug gets up, lays down, and uses stairs. Is there any hesitation or stiffness? Does a change in the weather (rainy, cold) make it worse? Arthritis is common in dogs as they age. Arthritis can occur in any joint, most commonly the legs and back (spine). There are many different medications available to help ease the discomfort of arthritis -- see your veterinarian if you notice any signs of slowing down in your dog. Another potential cause of slowing down is hypothyroidism, an endocrine disorder common in dogs. This condition is easily diagnosed and treated with proper veterinary care. Graying around the face, muzzle – Some dogs actually show a bit of graying in their coat as they grow older. This is not to say that a senior Pug will be an all grey colored dog! Reduced hearing - Is your Pug hard to wake up after sleeping or does your Pug become startled easily if you approach from behind? Hearing loss or deafness may be a reason for this. There isn't a lot that can be done for age-related hearing loss, but a vet exam should be done first to rule out other medical problems, such as an infection, growth, or foreign body in the ear. If your Pug does experience hearing loss, take care to protect him/her from hazards, such as cars and children that your Pug may not hear. Dogs do learn and adapt well using hand signals to come,

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stay, sit, and so on. It is a good idea to "cross train" your dog early in life to recognize basic hand signals. Cloudy or "bluish" eyes - As they age, dog's eyes often show a bluish transparent "haze" in the pupil area. This is a normal effect of aging, and the medical term for this is lenticular sclerosis. Vision does not appear to be affected. This is not the same as cataracts. Cataracts are white and opaque. Vision can be affected by cataracts, and your vet needs to be consulted if there is a white film. Muscle atrophy - Mild loss of muscle mass, especially the hind legs, may be seen with old age. Some muscle atrophy, notably on the head and the belly muscles, can signify diseases such as masticatory myositis and Cushing's Disease. Be sure to have your vet check this out if any muscle loss is noted. Cognitive Dysfunction - Dogs, like people, can experience age-related dementia. There is a treatment available that may help some Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s.

Possible Signs of Canine Cognitive Dysfunction Similar to Alzheimer's disease in humans, Canine Cognitive Dysfunction is caused by physical changes in the brain and its chemicals. Past studies have shown that some older dogs with CCD have brain lesions similar to those that physicians see in Alzheimer's patients. The result of these changes is a deterioration of how your dog thinks, learns, and remembers, which causes behavioral changes that can disrupt the lives of both you and your Pug. If your senior Pug doesn't seem to be himself or herself, your Pug may be part of the large percentage of dogs age 10 and older who experience some symptoms of CCD, which include various stages of confusion and disorientation. Your older Pug may have CCD if they have a number of the following behaviors: Becomes lost in familiar places around the home or backyard Becomes trapped behind familiar furniture or in room corners Has trouble finding and using doors and negotiating stairways Does not respond to her name or familiar commands Is withdrawn and unwilling to play, go for walks, or even go outside Does not recognize or is startled by family members, toys, etc. Frequently trembles or shakes, either while standing or lying down Paces or wanders aimlessly throughout the house Has difficulty learning new tasks, commands, or routes Frequently soils in the house, regardless of the frequency she is brought outside Sleeps more during the day, less during the night Stares at walls or into space and is startled by interior lighting, the television, etc. Seeks less and less of your attention, praise, and play Is hesitant to take treats, drink fresh water, or eat fresh food

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Coping With Canine Cognitive Dysfunction An older Pug who develops geriatric behavior differences isn't a rare occurrence. For years, veterinarians have attributed these symptoms to senility or normal aging and few treatment options were available. But continued scientific advances are changing both the views about and treatment of Canine Cognitive Dysfunction. In fact, if you suspect your Pug has CCD, make a special appointment or tell your veterinarian during one of the recommended twice-yearly visits for senior dogs. Many people simply do not mention their dog's changed lifestyle to their veterinarians, believing it is just "old age." But a combination of a number of the above symptoms is not normal to the aging process and certain options are available to help treat or curb both this syndrome in its entirety and its individual components. Your veterinarian will take a behavioral and medical history and conduct a thorough physical and neurological exam. Many CCD symptoms are shared with other serious ailments. For instance, decreased activity could be a sign of advanced arthritis, inattentiveness could be a result of acute hearing or vision loss, and incontinence could stem from a serious urinary infection or kidney disease. But once your veterinarian has eliminated other conditions and has made a diagnosis of Canine Cognitive Dysfunction, you and your veterinarian can explore treatment options. Unfortunately, there is no cure for CCD. But a prescribed drug is readily available and, though expensive, has shown significant effectiveness towards improving your Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s life and their enjoyment of it. This drug, selegiline or Ldeprenyl (brand name Anipryl) increases the amount of dopamine in your dog's brain. Dopamine is a chemical substance that transmits nerve impulses within the brain during normal function. Though it doesn't work in all dogs, it may help your dog think more clearly and remember more, thereby allowing your Pug to enjoy more of their life. As with all medications, however, side effects do exist and this drug does interact with other prescribed medications. Your veterinarian will discuss these problems with you.

How to Help Your Pug with CCD In the meantime, you can help your dog cope with CCD by considering their needs when it comes to your home, its surroundings, and the environment it creates for your dog. By integrating a little care and a customized, veterinarian-

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recommended lifestyle, you may be able to increase your dog's brain activity and halt further CCD advancement. In fact, the latest studies have found that regular, moderate physical activity, mental stimulation with interactive toys, and a diet rich in antioxidants may help sustain your aging dog's mental health. Again, your veterinarian should be consulted before changing any of your dog's exercise or feeding regimens; but also try to keep your senior dog's environment familiar and friendly, and: Try not to change, rearrange, or even refurbish furniture Eliminate clutter to create wide pathways through your house Consider purchasing or building a ramp for any stairways Know your Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s limits when introducing new toys, food, people, or other animals Keep a strict routine of feeding, watering, and walking so that your older Pug does not have any changes in their schedule Keep commands short, simple, and compassionate Encourage gentle and involved, short play sessions Most importantly, keep your patience and compassion. Your dog's world has changed, but every effort should be made to show your Pug that your love, respect, and pride of their past and present abilities have not changed and never will.

Coping With Your Senior Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hearing Loss An older Pug with hearing loss can quickly learn to understand hand signals, as opposed to verbal commands. The trickiest part of a dog with hearing loss, especially an older dog who needs to feel safe and secure, is that your dog may not hear you approaching; this can startle an older dog, thus causing stress. You might need to speak to your dog in a slightly higher voice. Clapping when you are entering a room usually works very well. This allows your Pug to know what is going on: a loud clap (not loud to your Pug) will mean that they can expect someone to come into the room. All human family members and those who visit should be asked to do this.

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Chapter 104: Keeping Your Pug Comfortable During the Senior Years There are many things that you do to help keep your senior Pug more comfortable and happy. Your older Pug will need your help as their body ages. Regular checkups and communication with your veterinarian will ensure that you are doing all that you can medically to help your pet enjoy the senior years. Vet checkups should be done 2 times per year now. This will make sure that any healthy issues are caught as soon as possible. If your Pug is diagnosed with a serious condition, we recommend getting a 2nd opinion.

Change your Pug‟s diet from dog food to senior dog food. Your Pug‟s body now needs a different amount of carbs, proteins, nutrients and minerals. This will also help your Pug maintain a healthy weight. If you are home cooking, there will not need to be a change. Although, older Pugs will slowly have a decrease in appetite (more on this ahead).

Don't expect too much from your senior dog – your Pug may want to run and play as they used to; but go slow - heat, arthritis, age-related muscle atrophy, and other age-related effects can take their toll. Do exercise your older Pug, but keep it light.

Ease distractions - senior Pugs can be easily startled by or become fearful of: kids, loud noises, and general commotion as they age. Conditions such as arthritis can make the dog fearful of getting hurt (or the potential to get hurt) with sudden movements of kids or being stepped on.

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Never think that strange symptoms are “normal” for an aging dog. Any health issues or behavioral issues should immediately be brought to the attention of your veterinarian. In most cases, treatment can be given for the health issue that is ailing your Pug…thus allowing them to be able to live without pain or discomfort.

New Pets and a Senior Pug Since older dogs do not handle stress well, getting a new puppy when you have a senior Pug may not be the best idea. It is best to get a new puppy when the older dog is still mobile (can get away from the puppy easily when feeling overwhelmed, etc.), relatively pain free, is not experiencing cognitive dysfunction, and has good hearing and vision.

Helping With Loss of Vision When a senior Pug begins to lose their vision, this can be frightening to the Pug…unless the environment is kept very stable. You will want to medically treat conditions such as glaucoma, cataracts, etc. to preserve vision if possible. If your senior Pug must live with decreased vision, it is very important to: Not make any changes to the layout of your home. Do not rearrange furniture or move their food and water. Stick with the same route for taking walks. Your Pug will feel more comfortable with the normal scents and sounds that they are accustomed to hearing. Dogs with decreased vision often react badly when approached. If your Pug doesn‟t see people until they are quite close, that can be startling and frightening. When the Pug‟s body jerks and feels pain from being startled or the person touches the dog in a way that hurts, the pain can cause an aggressive reaction. Dogs who have previously been safe to approach will need your help if they are to continue to be safe. When approaching, one should announce themselves, go down to the floor to the same level as the dog and gently approach from the side.

Sleep for the Senior Pug A senior Pug needs to have an orthopedic bed to help them have a good night‟s sleep. These types of dog beds will do so much to help an older dog‟s aching joints and muscles. Old dogs need places to rest comfortably where people will not startle them. Many dogs will insist on lying in doorways and hallways to keep tabs on you, unless you provide them with better spots. Make sure the resting spot has a good view of family action, reward your Pug for using the spot, don‟t let anyone tease the dog there, and be faithful to let the dog know when it‟s time to go outside, eat or have other important things happen.

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Giving Medication Old age is not a disease, but a lot of diseases become more likely as dogs age. Life is easier if you and your Pug learn some caretaking skills together such as giving medication. Your dog has probably learned at least one way to take pills, but you may need others for various problems. Your veterinarian can show you how to slip a pill into a dog‟s throat. Sometimes you or your Pug can‟t do it this way, and then you may be able to use various treats to conceal some pills. In some cases, medications can be formulated into liquids, with special flavoring, or patches. You may be able to insert pills into empty gelatin capsules to mask flavors distasteful to the dog or to get a lot of little pills down at once. Some medications can be injected. Make sure your veterinarian knows of any problems you have with giving your Pug medications so things can be worked out for the dog to get needed doses. It helps when you‟re giving a pill in treats or giving a flavored pill to first give a treat or two with no pill. Then, without hesitation, give the pill, followed at the same brisk pace by a couple more treats. Consult your veterinarian about whether a medication can be given with food. Ice cream should NOT be fed as a regular snack….The milk can cause tummy upset and diarrhea…And it may also cause an allergic reaction. In addition, the high levels of sugar can cause Hyperglycemia (the opposite of hypoglycemia-it is a fast rise in blood sugar levels)….However, a small amount of ice cream can be an easy fast way to have your dog swallow a pill. (For treats, replace ice cream with frozen yogurt – yummy and safe for a Pug!) Topical medications are often needed and some dogs do not like these! Make sure you understand from your veterinarian exactly how to do the application. A steady supply of tiny treats can keep a dog calm for applying the solution, if your Pug is in the mood to eat. If not, perhaps another family member or a friend can distract the dog while you work.

Grooming Changes Fur may begin to dry out as a Pug ages. To keep the fur as healthy as possible you will want to continue using a gentle hypo-allergenic dog shampoo and hypoallergenic dog conditioner. In addition to this, if your Pug has very dry skin and/or fur the Omega-3 and Omega-6 dog supplements can be very helpful.

Home Care You can make your dog‟s veterinary care smoother by learning to do some things at home. Your veterinarian can show you how to take the dog‟s temperature, and readings taken at home are useful in deciding when the dog needs to see the

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veterinarian or have a medication change. Whenever your Pug is ill, watch him or her as they eliminate, so you will know if there is diarrhea, blood, an unusual schedule, straining, or other abnormality. Keep a log in a notebook of any symptoms, veterinary instructions, temperature readings, appetite changes, medications, and other notes for yourself and your veterinarian later. Your older, senior Pug will be a lot more comfortable if you place doggie steps or a doggie ramp next to the sofa, bed or other area that your once young Pug was able to easily reach. Old dogs can be hurt by slipping on smooth floors. One of the best ways to reduce this risk is to put rubber-backed rugs across such floors and guide your senior Pug along the safe route until they become accustomed to it. Jumping up can cause pain and injury to a senior Pug. If you‟ve not already taught your Pug to keep paws on the floor for all human attention, now is the time. Simply withhold attention whenever your Pug is jumping and give attention when his or her paws are on the floor. Unless you often see your senior Pug take a sitting position independently, do not ask your Pug to sit. It can be painful and difficult for an older dog to keep from sliding down. Rather than have your senior Pug “sit” for patting, put your hands at the fronts of your knees, palms turned invitingly toward the dog, and in this way teach your Pug to aim for human knees to get attention. While we suggest this for Pugs of all ages, if you already have not done so, do obtain a harness as opposed to a leash. This will distribute pressure points on your older Pug to make walking with you much more comfortable.

Loss of Bladder or Bowel Control Some older dogs who have been housetrained for years, may start having 'accidents.' Medical conditions which result in an increased frequency of urination or elimination may be the underlying cause for this behavior problem. These conditions include: Colitis Inflammatory bowel disease Diabetes mellitus Bladder stones or infections Inflammation of the prostate Cushing's disease Kidney or liver disease

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Medical conditions which cause pain or make it difficult for the dog to go outside to eliminate can also contribute to the problem. These conditions include arthritis, anal sac disease, loss of vision, and some forms of colitis. Treatment of these medical conditions may help to resolve this problem. Some medical conditions can result in a loss of control over bladder and bowel function and include hormone responsive incontinence, prostatic disease, and cognitive dysfunction. Any older dog with a house soiling problem should be examined by a veterinarian and the owner should be able to give a detailed history of the color and amount of urine (or stool) passed, the frequency at which the dog needs to eliminate, changes in eating or drinking habits, the dog's posture while eliminating, and whether the 'accidents' only occur when the owner is gone. Medical conditions contributing to the house soiling problem should be treated appropriately. If arthritis or painful movement is involved, an owner may want to build a ramp to the outside so the dog does not need to maneuver on stairs. Slick floor surfaces should be covered with non-slip area rugs or other material. Areas in the house where the dog has urinated or defecated should be cleaned with an enzyme cleaner. For dogs who need to urinate or defecate frequently, owners may need to change their schedules or find a pet sitter who can take the dog outside at appropriate intervals. Doggie diapers should be put on a senior dog who has no bowel or bladder control. When a dog who used to “do everything right” starts to have accidents, this can crush the dog‟s self esteem. Using doggie diapers can actually give a senior Pug their self confidence back, as they will no longer have the “embarrassment” of having accidents inside of the home. Change the dog‟s “resting area” close to the outside door.

What you Must Know About Geriatric Screenings When your Pug is about 9 years old, he or she will have new experiences at the veterinarian. They will begin to do Geriatric Screenings. This means that additional tests will be added to regular checkups to look for any issues that may affect an older Pug. In general, a geriatric screening of your dog will include: (1) a thorough, hands-on physical exam; (2) blood tests; (3) possibly an electrocardiogram; (4) specialized tests depending on your dog's health history.

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Some vets advise semi-annual visits once your dog becomes a senior. An annual visit is an absolute minimum. In between visits to the vet and annual geriatric screenings, you can stay alert to behavioral changes and other signs of aging.

Signs to Be Aware of With an Older Pug Sudden loss of weight can be extremely serious. Take your dog to the vet as soon as possible. Serious loss of appetite -- to the point that your Pug is eating almost nothing. See your vet right away. Increase in appetite without increase in weight may mean diabetes. Get to the vet as soon as possible. Diarrhea or vomiting, if it lasts more than a day can be a sign of many problems. Don't wait to see the vet. Increased thirst, without a change in activity level, and increased urination are other signs of diabetes. Your dog should be tested as soon as possible. Tiring more quickly than when younger is normal as a dog ages, but may also be a sign of disease affecting the heart or lungs. Be alert to your dog's becoming excessively out of breath after minimal exercise. Have your vet check for cardio-pulmonary problems as soon as possible, if you notice such symptoms. If the vet determines all is normal, you can continue an exercise program, but modify it in order not to overtax your dog. Coughing and excessive panting may indicate heart disease. If these symptoms persist even after you've modified your dog's exercise program, visit the vet. Difficulty in getting up from a lying position, or other problems with moving may indicate arthritis. Your vet will be able to advise you on ways you can relieve your dog's discomfort and lack of mobility. Problems with vision and hearing are natural as a dog ages. Accommodate these changes as best you can -- by not changing the location of furniture, for example, or clapping instead of calling your dog's name when he no longer seems able to hear you. Graying hair and drying skin are sure signs of aging. More attention to grooming and the introduction of massage will help the condition of the skin and coat. Behavioral changes that you may see in your older dog include: Separation anxiety....you may note that when you leave your older dog alone, she become destructive or barks or whines or loses control of elimination Sensitivity to noise....thunderstorms that never bothered him before may now make your older dog tremble Vocalizing....may be due to loss of hearing or to separation anxiety

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Uncharacteristic aggression....may be due to painful joints, a drug reaction, or intolerance for new people and new circumstances; your older dog likes things to remain the same Confusion, lack of attentiveness, disorientation.... Roaming in circles, barking at nothing, being withdrawn.... Elimination accidents.... If your dog is acting abnormally in any of the above ways, consult your vet right away.

Anesthesia for Older Dogs There's always a risk when your dog must undergo a procedure that involves anesthesia. If your vet says your Pug needs anesthesia, be certain the office is fully equipped with anesthetic monitors: a pulse oximeter blood pressure monitor and ECG. A "pulse oximeter" is particularly important because it alerts the vet if a dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s blood oxygen level falls below the safe limit. One type of anesthesia that is recommended for older dogs is "isoflurane," an inhalation-type anesthesia that is quickly eliminated from the dog's body once inhalation stops. However, Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine reports in their March 1998 Newsletter that a new injectable anesthetic, "propofol" (brand name "Rapinovet," marketed by Mallinckrodt Veterinary, Inc.) has been shown to be less risky because it is eliminated even more quickly from the dog's body. We quote: " . . . dogs show less residual grogginess and irritability when recovering from propofol . . ." Older dogs are generally at greater risk than younger dogs when anesthesia is administered, so this new anesthetic may be the best for an older dog.

Dental Care for the Older Pug Dental care needs to be continuous from the time a dog is young. By the time a dog is "geriatric," the effects of dental neglect will be evident and potentially lifeshortening. Rotting teeth can cause gum and mouth infections, and these infections can migrate to the vital organs and cause serious damage. Gum (periodontal) disease is extremely common in older Pugs, and one of the more serious health problems that occurs. Basically it is the overwhelming presence of bacteria in the plaque that adheres to a dog's teeth. Ideally, from a young age, a Pug will have access to chew toys and crunchy foods. In addition, your dog's teeth should be cleaned on a regular basis by your vet. But the most important element in keeping your Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s teeth and gums healthy is your brushing your dog's teeth regularly -- every other day or a

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minimum of three times a week. By brushing regularly, you can also lengthen the time between professional cleanings by the vet. Doggie toothpaste, toothbrushes, and other devices for at-home teeth cleaning are available at most pet stores and through catalogs. The toothpaste should contain chlorhexidine to be effective. Beef- or Pugcken-flavored toothpaste will make your dog think he is getting a treat. (We know of dogs who beg to have their teeth brushed.) Here's one technique for brushing your dog's teeth: hold the mouth closed gently. Slide the brush in under the lips and along the teeth, toward the molars. Spend most of the brushing time on the molars, and do what you can with the other teeth. It's not necessary to open your Pug‟s mouth to brush the inside surfaces of the teeth. Don't give up if it doesn't work so smoothly the first time. And try different techniques if the suggested one doesn't suit your Pug. By experimenting, you and your Pug will learn how to cooperate to get the job done. As a Pug ages, he gets lazier about chewing his food and playing with chew toys. He may develop a preference for softer food. He may give only a few halfhearted nudges to the toys and bones he once gnawed on happily for hours. A gradually diminishing interest in chewing is normal as a dog ages; but if your Pug stops chewing suddenly or looks like he is eating in a "careful" way, it may be a sign that his teeth and gums are hurting and need professional attention. Have your vet check your older Pug’s teeth regularly; but do it immediately if you notice a sudden change in his chewing or eating behavior. If your vet recommends that your dog's teeth be cleaned under anesthesia, you should be informed about the risks. Alternatively, some vets will clean an older (mellower) dog's teeth using an ultrasound scaler, a mild sedative, and a "sack" type of restraint. But this may not be possible, even with a mellow dog, if there is serious gum disease. Encourage chewing behavior as best you can: a new crunchy biscuit might work, or a new chew toy. Some of the rope "flossing" toys on the market are also often recommended by veterinarians. Most vets agree, however, that brushing is the most effective means of keeping your dog's teeth and gums healthy in between professional cleanings.

Exercise Changes for Older Pugs Exercise is as essential to dogs as it is to humans. It is profoundly tied to a dog's physical, mental, and emotional health. A sedentary dog is a bored dog, often an overweight dog, and, in general, a less-than-optimally-healthy dog. In older Pugs, obesity is the most common condition that vets see, and lack of exercise is a critical component of it.

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As dogs age, they still need their exercise to benefit their heart, lungs, circulation, digestive system, and joints -- as well as to fight obesity. Compared with younger dogs, however, older dogs need to adjust the type and duration of the exercise they do. Every dog is different in the way he or she ages and the exercise he or she can handle. You really need to be very observant in assessing your particular Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s abilities, natural inclinations, and current state of health. Keep alert to your dog's being excessively out of breath, or to a drooping head and tail. If your Pug coughs or does not get her breath back after five minutes of rest following exercise, have the vet check her heart. In fact, if your dog is over 7 and has not had a check-up including a geriatric screening for more than six months and she has not been exercising regularly, get the check-up before beginning an exercise program. Keep in mind that in general small dogs -- even younger ones -- aren't meant for distance running (therefore, it's not a good idea to take your Pug jogging with you). Other basics to keep in mind: It's best to exercise your dog before he eats and to wait about half an hour after the exercise session before giving a meal. Keep your older Pug out of the sun, and, on a hot day, it's probably best not to exercise outdoors at all. Very cold, wet days are also times when indoor exercise is more appropriate. If your Pug has been diagnosed with hip dysplasia, usually walking and swimming are the best activities. For walking, use a harness so that you can control the duration and strenuousness of the exercise. Two shorter walks will be less stressful on aging joints than one long walk. The walks can be quite brisk, provided the vet has given approval. A brisk walk should have four components: a warm-up of about 5 minutes, gradually increasing the pace brisk walking of about 20 minutes a cool-down of about 5 minutes, during which you gradually decrease the pace a drink of water. If you play fetch with your older Pug, throw the ball or toy a little closer than you did when your dog was younger, and repeat the toss fewer times. After a point, it is probably advisable to stop playing fetch and to concentrate on walking or swimming. When swimming, remember that an older Pug will tend to become chilled much more quickly than a young dog. Take big towels along, and use them to dry off your dog as soon as he gets out of the water -- and preferably before he begins shivering.

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Keep in mind that your Pug will do anything to please you. That will mean he may tend to become over-exerted in running or playing simply because he thinks that's what you expect. You will need to judge carefully and to adjust the strenuousness and duration of the exercise accordingly. At-home exercise is also a good alternative for older dogs. Use a carpeted area for the session, and one of your dog's favorite toys. You can play a modified game of "fetch" in a relatively small area. You might also want to play a game that involves your dog doing "roll-overs" or lying on her back to "kick the air." "Wrestling" and "keep away" are two other good games to play with your dog. The idea is to keep her active and moving in a physically non-stressful way. Use your imagination to invent other at-home games. It's never too late to start an exercise program for your Pug. Just as with a human, though, you should check your dog's general health with your vet, and then begin the exercise program gradually. If your dog has been inactive over a long period, Frisbee-chasing in the first exercise session is definitely not one of the choices! Easy, companionable walks of about ten or fifteen minutes a couple of times a day will make a good beginning.

Flea Control Changes for the Senior Pug No dog gets through life without fleas. Fleas are an especially big problem if a dog is allergic to flea bites. Many Pugs are more sensitive to flea bites as they age because older skin is drier and an aging immune system weaker. Even though your dog may have gone through puppyhood and most of the adult years with barely the flick of a paw at a flea, the senior years are different. Flea control becomes increasingly important as your Pug ages. Some people insist they have no fleas in their home or on their dog. Yet, their Pug is always scratching. Denial will not help here… And it is not your fault if your Pug has fleas…They can jump up to 6 feet… All it takes is a visit to a vet, pet store, doggie park, etc…and a flea/s can jump from one dog onto your Pug. Fleas are resilient and prolific. They like a temperate, moist climate best, but they can go into a dormant state for as much as a year, waiting until conditions for survival and reproduction are more favorable. They live (or lie dormant) in carpets, furniture, bedding, floor and wall joints, indoor plants, gardens, and yards. They like the cozy, moist places around bushes in your garden. They like the car, too, if the dog goes for rides in it. Here is the plan of attack to keep fleas under control: Attack the fleas on your dog and any other pets who live with you. Attack the fleas in your home. Attack the fleas in the yard, garden, and car.

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The advertising literature for some flea control products makes it sound as though your problem will be solved by using just one method of flea control. One method alone usually will not work. Use this three-part plan of attack. It's the best way to achieve good results.

Attack Fleas on Your Pug Using brush and flea comb on a daily basis will help you to discover any fleas that may be living on your dog. However, you will still need to use agents to repel, kill, or affect the reproductive cycle of the fleas. With an older dog, it is wise to use the gentlest and least invasive methods. Controlling fleas is big business. Major drug companies are focused on it, and, in the past few years, have developed some outstandingly effective substances. "Program" (Ciba Geigy Corp.) is a once-a-month tablet you give your dog. It acts when a flea bites. The flea ingests the pet's blood, which contains the drug in "Program" (called "lufenuron"). This drug prevents the flea's eggs from developing, ending the reproductive cycle. An "Ovitrol" collar also works by preventing flea eggs from hatching. The active ingredients in Program and Ovitrol are "Insect Growth Regulators," or IGRs. These aren't designed to kill anything directly, but rather to interrupt the reproductive cycle of insects. The disadvantage to these products is that adult fleas are still free to bite, and an allergic dog will still react. Two products that kill fleas but that appear to have no adverse side effects are: (1) Advantage (Bayer), which is applied to a pet's skin -- a few drops between the shoulder blades -- once a month. Fleas that get onto the pet die within a few hours of being exposed to the drug in Advantage; and (2) Frontline (Rhone Merieux), which acts in a similar way. Don't use flea collars with insecticide content. They are not effective and can be harmful to your Pug. A better use for a flea collar is inside your vacuum cleaner bag. There it will kill any fleas you vacuum up around the house. When it comes to ultrasonic flea collars, we've heard they don't work. Don't "dip" or "flea shampoo" your dog; the ingredients in such preparations are too harsh, especially for an older Pug.

Attack the Fleas in Your Home Most fleas spend most of their time OFF your Pug, jumping on just long enough for a meal. The rest of the time they live somewhere in the environment. That is why you need to vacuum furniture and carpets often. Use washable bedding for your dog and wash it at least as often as you wash your own. Dry the bedding on high heat (anything above 95 degrees will kill flea pupae). Treat your home with your choice of a flea control agent or use a professional exterminator three to

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four times a year if you live in a temperate climate, or at least twice during spring and summer. Select the least toxic chemicals available. The company known as "Fleabusters" uses a non-toxic powder that is very effective. If you use a traditional exterminator, ask about the chemicals they employ. "Precor" is in the IGR class and is considered fairly non-toxic. Pyrethrins and pyrethroids, though somewhat toxic, are common and considered safe when properly applied. Organophosphates are also safe as long as you don't have exposure to them while they are still wet. The flea-control professionals usually can do a better job than you can do yourself. If you have been doing it yourself and your dog is still scratching, try a professional. Get a recommendation from your vet or from friends. Safe and effective application depends a great deal on the "professional" doing the job. Be sure the person or company is experienced and has a good track record.

Attack Fleas in the Yard, Garden, and Car There are many choices for do-it-yourselfers to apply to the yard and garden. A class of substances called "wettable powders" can be used effectively. "Dursban" is an example. "Diazinon 25%" is a spray-pesticide that is effective. One problem with these pesticides, however, is that they don't discriminate among insects, and will be as lethal to ladybugs as they are to fleas. There are some non-toxic alternatives to use in the garden. Diatomaceous earth is a drying agent that creates an inhospitable environment for fleas (available at garden supply stores). Another is a biological substance known as a "nematode" that kills flea eggs and pupae. Sold commercially as "Flea Halt!" and "Interrupt," nematodes are not effective on adult fleas, so, in a cold climate, you need to apply them in the spring, before the eggs have begun to hatch. In a temperate climate, you will need to apply them three to four times a year. You can spray or "bomb" your car yourself; however, if you don't ventilate the car adequately afterwards, exposure to the poisons in these preparations will be dangerous. Try vacuuming thoroughly first. Then use diatomaceous earth on the carpets and upholstery inside the car. Leave it on overnight, and vacuum again before using the car. Consider a professional to do your yard, garden, and car at the same time as the interior of your home is being treated.

Consult Your Veterinarian and Personalize Your Flea-Control Program 332

Check with your Pug‟s vet to see if your dog is on medication or has a condition that would be compromised by using a particular flea control method. What works for another dog -- who may be younger and in a different state of health -may not be right for your senior dog. .

Grooming Grooming a senior Pug is not just for looks. The coat and skin are the dog's first line of defense against environmental attack -- from such enemies as fleas, wetness, and cold. When the coat and skin are in poor condition, your dog becomes susceptible to disease or illness. An older coat and older skin just can't take care of themselves like they used to -because circulation and muscle tone aren't as good as they were when a Pug was younger. You can make up for the decrease in these functions with a grooming routine. A daily grooming session with the proper tools is the first step. Brush and flea comb are two of the basics. Fifteen minutes is usually all it will take each day, but those fifteen minutes will save you time in the long run. You'll keep your Pug‟s overall health at a high level, eliminating visits to the vet other than for regular check-ups. Another reason for a daily grooming session has to do with an aging Pug’s need for physical contact and attention. While puppies and young dogs are busy running around and tearing up the place, an older Pug doesn't have energy for such things. A grooming session can be an energizer as well as provide an interesting diversion for the dog. It is also an opportunity for you and your Pug to experience the kind of closeness and physical contact that is reassuring and satisfying and that contributes to your Pug‟s overall sense of well-being -- which, in turn, stimulates good health. Regular brushing can lengthen the time between baths. Usually older dogs don't need a bath more than once a month. Less baths will be better for the aging skin. Always bathe your older Pug with warm water in a warm room. Cold will dry the skin and might cause chilling. Always use a very mild shampoo with an older Pug, since older skin has a tendency toward allergy and dryness. Shampoos not especially formulated for use with a dog -- even "baby" shampoos -should NEVER be used on any Pug of any age. Don't use a blow-dryer with an older Pug, which is too hard on the coat and skin. Instead, use thick, absorbent towels.

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Use grooming sessions as a means of checking for tumors, growths, or changes in skin condition. Run your hands over all parts of your Pug‟s body -from stem to stern, along the abdomen, legs, ears, and tail. Early detection of a malignancy can extend your dog's life by years. The skin, as the largest organ of the body, also can indicate internal health problems that may not be otherwise visible. Watch for dryness or roughness of the skin texture, and for any unusual symptoms.

Nail Changes with an Older Pug Trimming is usually done about every 3-4 weeks on a younger Pug, but an older Pug’s nails should be trimmed every three weeks. You can also do it weekly, if your preferred method is to trim just a tiny sliver from the nails each time you do it. Younger dogs can wear down their nails a little with the running around they do, making it less necessary to be strict about the time between trimmings. But an older Pug tends to do less walking and running, so it's critical to keep to a regular nail trimming schedule. Nails that are too long can affect the dog's gait and cause imbalance and muscle strain. The older your dog is, the more critical it is to keep the nails at the proper length, primarily so that the dog can maintain some semblance of a regular exercise program without compromising skeletal alignment and muscle function. A general guideline for proper length is that the dog's nails should not touch the ground when she is standing (i.e., not walking, but just standing still).

Mobility How do you keep an older Pug with hip problems, arthritis, spinal nerve damage, weakness, or other ailments? Here are some tips and resources: Traction Keep the fur on your Pug‟s pads trimmed close. This will give your dog more traction on slick floors. Put down skid-free carpeting in places where your dog normally lies down to make getting up and getting started easier. You may wish to put coverings on your dog's paws -- such as those "slipper" socks that have non-skid material on the bottoms. Animal Suspension Technology manufactures support harnesses for disabled and injured dogs. The AST Support Suit is a support harness for injured, weak or disabled dogs. It is designed to provide complete support and control for dogs that need help walking. Steps and Ramps

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Of course, you can carry you Pugâ&#x20AC;Śbut to allow your dog to keep their independence, it is strongly suggested to have steps or ramps that allow your senior Pug to go up onto your bed, the sofa or any other safe area that they usually go onto by letting them walk up steps or ramps.

Neuter/Spay Surgery for an Older Dog Is it appropriate or beneficial to perform neuter or spay surgery on an older dog.? Our survey of veterinarians indicates that, unless a dog is extremely old or medically unstable, the surgery can only be of benefit. Dangerous conditions such as pyometra and prostatitis can be avoided by spaying or neutering. As one veterinarian summed it up, it is better to spay a healthy 9-year-old than to do an emergency spay on a 9-year-old who is ill with pyometra. Spaying or neutering a senior Pug is a decision that always depends on a careful exam by a veterinarian, including bloodwork and other tests. If the exam shows a Pug to be healthy and in condition to successfully undergo the surgery, there is every reason to proceed with it.

Loss of Appetite and Loss of Weight A gradual loss of appetite is not uncommon in older Pugs. As a dog ages, his senses of smell and taste may decrease, making food generally less appealing. A sudden loss of appetite may mean the onset of a serious illness, so be sure to check with your vet if your dog refuses to eat for more than a day. Appetite that gradually diminishes to a dangerously low level also may be a sign of a serious problem. Again, check with your vet if you are in the least concerned about your dog's appetite. One way to increase the smell- and taste-appeal of food is to warm it. It is, in fact, recommended that you always present food to your Pug that is at room temperature rather than directly from the refrigerator. Take it from the refrigerator and bring it to room temperature quickly; that is, don't allow it to sit out for a lengthy period to warm up. Of course, it shouldn't so hot that it might burn delicate tissue in the mouth, either. Some older Pugs like their food on the "soupy" side. Adding unsalted beef or chicken broth will make the meal easier for them to eat.

Foods to Avoid Do you give your Pug chews made of pig ears, beef jerky or pigskin? If so, be careful to wash your hands carefully after handling the treats. About 30 people in Canada became infected with Salmonella in 1999 as a result of their exposure to

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dog chews containing the bacteria. Another option, of course, is to completely avoid the chews. Try giving your senior dog a carrot stick instead.

Nutritional Supplements Check with your vet before introducing nutritional supplements into your dog's diet. An excess amount of something that is normally beneficial may create an imbalance in your dog's overall nutritional status. There are so many products on the market now -- especially in the "health foods" arena -- that you may find yourself confused. You are not alone. Many of these products do no harm; many do no good and are a waste of money. See what your vet thinks before giving supplements to your dog. Here are some to consider: Glucosamine/chondroitin -- for joint health Vitamin B-12 -- for energy and metabolism Vitamin E -- an antioxidant Vitamin C -- may play a role in immune function Brewer's yeast -- a good source of the B-complex vitamins Linoleic acid -- found i corn and sunflower oils Bromelain -- aids digestion and is an anti-inflammatory Glycerin -- for eye health

Drinks for Older Dogs Water is the best drink for your senior dog. The main problem with many older dogs is that they forget to drink, or, due to arthritis or joint pain, they have trouble getting up and moving around, so they avoid going to their water bowl. Dehydration -- even mild -- is a bad state for a senior dog. The recommendations are: (1) thoroughly wash and re-fill your dog's water bowl several times a day. (2) Set out several water bowls in locations that your dog can reach easily. (3) Deliver the water bowl to your dog if you notice he hasn't had a drink in a long time. Be certain that the water you give your older dog is clean and free of pollutants. Because an older Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s kidneys may not be functioning as well as when he was younger, they won't tolerate impure water. Filtered water is always a great idea. A good guideline to use is that if the water is good enough for you to drink, it's good enough for your dog. Similarly, if you don't think you should drink it, your older Pug probably shouldn't drink it either.

Weather Cold and dampness are hard on a senior Pug. . As your Pug ages, her coat will get thinner and her circulation will be less efficient, making her feel the cold more. Protect her with a sweater and/or rain gear when necessary. Don't keep her out too long in really cold weather. Older dogs are also more susceptible to 336 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

becoming overheated in hot weather. Shade your older dog from the sun and keep him in an air-conditioned room in very hot weather. Take shorter rather than longer walks in the hot weather. Be sure he has plenty of cool water to drink.

Companionship An older dog tends to sleep more, but that doesn't mean he should be left alone more. His nose still tells him when he has human company, even as he sleeps. He will still hear your voice (or sense your presence through vibrations), even though he looks like he's dreaming. Give your older dog the benefit of as much human companionship as he's had throughout his life -- even increase it, if possible. Keep him near you and take him with you when you go places. It will increase his sense of security and his involvement with life, and it will make him last longer.

Home Environment In general, dogs like routine and sameness. Older dogs like it even more. To the extent possible, keep your Pugâ&#x20AC;&#x;s home environment and routines the same. For example, her water and food bowls should be in the same location and she should be fed and walked at the usual times and in the usual places. Of course, individual dogs will vary in their ability to deal with change in their surroundings. Dogs with decreased vision will be more stressed if the furniture is changed around than dogs whose vision is still good. Be alert to signs of stress in your dog that you may have inadvertently caused by a change in home environment. Try to help her adjust by giving attention and guidance and lots of positive reinforcement when she seems to become more relaxed about the change. Slippery floors will become a problem as your dog ages. You'll notice that your Pug will begin to have trouble getting up from the bare floor, or walking across the bare floor. Cover the problem areas of the floor with a rubber-backed/nonskid runner or area rug. Your older dog's sleeping areas are particularly important environmental factors. Many older dogs -- particularly those with arthritis in hips and back -- seem to prefer sleeping on an "egg crate" type mattress. Not only does it seem to provide a more even surface and therefore give better skeletal alignment, it also tends to reduce pressure on the dog's bony areas. Egg-crate mattresses are sometimes called "orthopedic" mattresses, and are sold, with zippered covers, through catalogs and in pet stores

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Training an Older Dog Forget the saying: "You can't teach an old dog new tricks." An older dog is actually easier to train than a puppy. One of the reasons is that just about any dog who has reached the age of 5 or more has learned what "No" means. In order to be acceptable in human company, he has also learned generally what is expected of him. He is calmer and quieter than a puppy, and so he is able to focus better on what you are trying to teach him. He has learned about dominance and has a firm grasp of the concept of "alpha" dog. As an older dog, he is not trying to prove his dominance over humans, and, in general, he is ready to fit himself into his human family "pack," and to do whatever is necessary to make that fit as comfortable as possible. Every dog is an individual. Some dogs are more highly motivated than others to please their human companions. Some will be much more sensitive than others to tone of voice or to the cues you use in giving praise. Dog owners are individuals, too, so you need to be aware of your own tendencies and preferences when it comes to training.

Vaccination Changes Due to the incidence of illnesses in companion animals that have been linked to vaccinations, the practice of giving annual vaccinations has come into question. The current protocol from Colorado State University , which is based on solid scientific research, advises vaccinations only every three years (except rabies, which depends on state laws). A quote from the protocol: "We are making this change after years of concern about the lack of scientific evidence to support the current practice of annual vaccination and the increasing documentation that over-vaccinating has been associated with harmful side effects. Of particular note in this regard has been the association of autoimmune hemolytic anemia with vaccination in dogs and vaccine-associated sarcomas in cats -- both of which are often fatal." The protocol states further: "This Program recommends the standard three shot series for puppies (parvovirus, adenovirus 2, parainfluenza, distemper) . . . to include rabies after 12 weeks of age for cats and 16 weeks of age for dogs. Following the initial puppy and kitten immunization series, cats and dogs will be boostered one year later and then every three years thereafter for all the above diseases. Similar small animal vaccination programs have been recently

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adopted by the University of Wisconsin, Texas A & M, and the American Association of Feline Practitioners." Many vets feel that dogs over 10 or 12 years of age should not be vaccinated because their immune system can be compromised, and also, by the time they are that age, they have received adequate protection. Some vets refuse to vaccinate a dog over the age of 7 years. Other vets are vaccinating older dogs only every three years. They will also not schedule a rabies shot at the same time as other vaccinations. It should be noted that the vaccines themselves carry the warning that they are to be administered only to healthy animals. Thus, if your Pug has any ailment or disease (e.g., cancer), vaccination should not be administered. In some sections of the country, you can have your dog exempted even from rabies vaccinations by obtaining a letter from your veterinarian stating that your dog's health does not allow it. Antibody titres -- blood tests that detect the presence of antibodies to diseases -can be performed to determine antibody levels. However, titres are not true indicators of the degree of immunity a dog has; that is, a low level of antibody does not necessarily mean that the dog is not protected. Another problem with titres is that different labs have been known to report radically different results when testing the same blood specimen. Some veterinarians feel that titres are worthless as indicators of whether your Pug requires a booster.

Winterizing Your Senior Pug When winter is upon us, we need to focus on the special needs of older Pugs, who can be especially susceptible to the extremes of temperature and other stressful, dangerous conditions of winter. (1) Does your older Pug need a sweater? How about a raincoat? Wet fur decreases your dog's ability to fend off the cold. Even if she's never needed these before, as she gets older, she'll be less able to keep herself warm with activity. (2) Is your Pug‟s sleeping area free from drafts? Is there a blanket and thick mattress pad for her to snuggle under/sleep on? (3) Never leave anti-freeze in a place that is accessible to your dog. If it spills on the garage floor, wipe it up immediately and rinse the area clean with lots of water. The sweet smell of it is attractive to dogs. Anti-freeze is a poison.

Vital Signs --"Normal" Readings for a Senior Dog What should a senior Pug‟s normal temperature, pulse, and breathing rate be? Here are the ranges:

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Temperature: 99.5 - 102.8 Pulse: 60-120 beats per minute Breathing: 14-22 breaths per

Knowing When to Let Go We receive a lot of email from very sad Pug owners who have senior dogs with severe health problems and want to know â&#x20AC;&#x153;when it is time to let go?â&#x20AC;? As your Pug ages, there most likely will come a time when you must make a decision regarding letting your Pug pass on. This most often happens when an older, senior dog is diagnosed with a health issue that cannot be treated and the veterinarian determines that: The health issue will continue to worsen The dog is in pain In any case such as this, we highly recommend getting a 2nd opinion, no matter how long you have had the same vet or how much you admire/trust them. Getting a 2nd opinion will do 2 things: 1. Put your mind at ease that the diagnosis and prognosis is absolutely correct 2. There may be a chance that a different vet/ specialist may have a different diagnosis. Once you are at the point of needing to make a decision, while this is a personal decision, if asked for our advice we do say this: Loving your Pug means putting their needs ahead of yours. We feel that this decision should be based on the amount of pain the dog is in and the discomfort they are feeling. If your Pug is in pain the majority of the time, our recommendation is to give yourself the emotional pain of saying goodbye in order to give your Pug the freedom of being done with the pain. This is the most unselfish, loving thing that you can do.

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Chapter 105: Microchippping Overview

Each year, more than 10 million pets are lost, and, according to the American Humane Association, only about 17% of lost ever find their owners. Nearly 20 million pets are euthanized each year because their owners cannot be located. If your Pug is microchipped, there is a much greater chance that they will return to you safely. Microchips will last for your petâ&#x20AC;&#x;s lifetime as there are no moving parts and nothing to replace.

What a Microchip is A microchip is a small computer chip that has an identification number programmed into it. It is small enough to fit into a hypodermic needle, about the size of a grain of uncooked rice. Once implanted, the I.D. number cannot be altered or removed, and a layer of connective tissue forms around the chip preventing it from moving about.

How this is Inserted Some people are hesitant to microchip their dog because they are afraid it will hurt. The procedure is simple, routine, and painless, and it doesn't require any anesthesia. Your Pug would simply get an injection just under the loose skin between the shoulder blades; it's a lot like getting vaccinated. Most animals don't react at all. Long term studies have shown that the microchip is very safe for pets.

How This Helps Your Pug

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The chip contains an identification code that is unique to your Pug. Most veterinarians and animal shelters have scanners that can read that identification code from all brands of microchip. If your Pug ever is lost and ends up in a kennel or a veterinarianâ&#x20AC;&#x;s office, they will scan the chip, the company that manufactured the chip will be notified and then you will be notified as to where your Pug is.

The Success Rate of Finding Lost Dogs with Microchips The American Society for the prevention of cruelty to animals (ASPCA) also supports the use of microchip IDs for animal identification. They feel that it is the most reliable system for the recovery of lost pets. Thousands of lost dogs have been reunited with their owners due to microchips. Ideally, leashes, fences, and doors would be enough to keep your Pug safe at home, but in the real world, accidents happen, and your Pug depends on you to protect him or her against the things that could go wrong. With a little effort now, you can take a big step toward ensuring that your Pug will be with you in the future

Chapter 106: Car Issues 342

Not all Pugs love riding in the car.

Since almost all of us need to drive our car and we would love to bring our Pug with us, this can be very frustrating. In addition, there will of course be times when your Pug must ride in the car with you…to veterinarian appointments and more. A dog may: Be afraid of the car Have car sickness when being driven around Riding in a car can trigger great stress in some dogs. This can happen from a blend of fear and also not understanding the end result of a car drive. How severe can this be? If your Pug is afraid of being in the car, your dog may: Shake Drool Whimper, whine or bark out of control For those with car sickness, your Pug may vomit

How to Help Your Pug There are several things that you can do to help your Pug learn to enjoy riding in the car with you: 1.A slow sensitization training. Training works best when your Pug is a puppy; however with this training method, a Pug of any age can be helped. Pushing your Pug into your car and driving away will never allow your Pug to become comfortable and enjoy the ride. Begin by simply bringing your Pug into your car when it is not running. If your dog hesitates to enter, offer treats to urge them to move closer. Slowly open the door, while talking in a happy and praising tone. Never force your Pug into the car; if your dog is showing signs of extreme nervousness, just allow them to calm down and urge them closer and closer with the promise of a treat. Put your dog‟s favorite blanket or dog toy inside the car. For safety reasons, discussed in detail below, you must have your Pug secure. We highly recommend a dog car safety harness. This allows your dog to not feel confined; but keeps them safe. Gently put this on your dog. Make this enjoyable. Bring some dog treats, talk in a happy and upbeat tone. Pat your Pug a lot and praise them. You will want to do this at random times through the day and spend at least 5 to 10 minutes per sensitization training. 2. After approximately 2 weeks, you should repeat the above training; however have the car running. This will allow your Pug to become familiar with the sound

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of the engine, while not being subjected to the actual movement yet. If at any time, your dog shows signs of being afraid, pat and talk to your dog to reassure them at all is just fine. Be sure that your Pug is in the safety harness. The tone of your voice and your actions will be of great value to your Pug. Through this training method, you will be showing your Pug how to behave. Spend at least 10 minutes, once per day. It is recommended to do this at random times, so that your dog does not learn that it is “car time” at a certain time of the day! 3. It is now time for phase 3 of this training. With your dog now comfortable with the harness, the car and the noise, you can begin slow sensitization training for movement. Drive slowly up and down your driveway or a very short distance on the street. Offer great words of praise and a small dog treat. Consistence is the key to this dog training. The more you offer this very short, calm driving experience, the better your Pug will be able to slowly and steady become accustomed to this. 4. In 1 to 2 weeks, your short little drives up and down your drive way should now be short drives around the neighborhood. A 5 to 10 minute drive is recommended and you can, over the course of a month, work your way up to 30 minute drives. Great praise in a calm and happy tone should be given throughout this training. This training works best if the dog is driving to a fun place. This helps the Pug associate the car with fun. Your destination can be a dog park, beach or other area that you know you Pug will love to run around and have fun. By taking this time to gradually train your dog, you will find that in most cases, a dog will become accustomed to the car and not see this as a threat.

Dog Car Sickness Just like people, some dogs have motion sickness. For these dogs, it is best to limit driving only when necessary, such as needed veterinarian visits. No amount of training can stop a dog from vomiting in the car when suffering from this. However, feeding a light meal, 4 to 5 hours before a needed car drive will help. You may also wish to speak with your vet, as your Pug may be given a medication such as Dramamine; the dosing should be overseen by your dog‟s veterinarian.

Dog Safety – Keeping Your Pug Safe If is vitally important that if your car has a side passenger air bag, your Pug should be put in the back seat. Dog safety harnesses are recommended; these work in the same way that a human seat belt does.

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Just turning a corner or having to slam on the brakes can severely injure a Pug who is not secure in your car. Please drive knowing that your Pug is safe and secure. While you may be a wonderful driver, you have no control over how others drive on the road.

Chapter 107: How to Keep Your Pug Happy 345

Overview

We love our Pug and want the best for them.

While our lives may be complex and demanding, in the eyes of a Pug, they are dealing with daily elements as well. Some are stressful, others are enjoyable. Your Pug does try to communicate with you, but are you seeing all of the signs? Do you know when you dog is trying to say “Please do this for me!”? Are you doing all that you can to understand your dog? What is needed to keep your Pug not only physically in good shape…but emotionally happy as well? There are many things that you can easily do and provide which will make your Pug one happy & healthy dog.

Grooming Grooming your Pug is not just needed to keep them clean and looking great. Grooming, under the right circumstances, provides a dog with a wonderful bonding experience. Do you love receiving massages and feeling special as you are taken care of? So does your Pug and grooming does just that! You should choose a quiet time, in a relaxed setting, to sit down with your Pug and brush them. Take your time and use this time to speak with them in a happy, calming voice.

Dinner Time Always provide top quality dog food. This is your way of saying “I care about you, love you and want you to live a long life”. Just as a mother would not feed her child candy for dinner…your Pug should be given only the best dinners. It is important for a dog to always have their food and water bowls in the same spot, all the time. A dog can become very stressed if they are not 100% sure where it is that they will be given their food. In addition, a dog needs fresh water all the time. A Pug knows that food is the most important element to their survival. Even if all else was gone…their toys, their doggie bed, their blanket... it is food that will keep them alive. Knowing that they can always depend on being given their food at certain times of the day gives a Pug a sense of security and gives them one less thing to be worried about.

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Do keep in mind that a Pug under 3 months old should be free-fed (food is left out all day long so that the puppy may eat whenever they wish).

Comfort Keep your Pug comfortable. Dogs may shows signs of discomfort, but in many cases will just put up with unpleasant elements. If you always make sure do your best to eliminate uncomfortable elements, your Pug will be very happy: If your Pug lies on the floor quite often, offer a dog bed or place a soft & cozy blanket on the floor. Especially offer this if their elbows show signs of the friction caused by laying on hard floors or carpet “burn”. Always keep them flea free and worm free. Have fresh water out for your Pug at all times. Just as you would not be too pleased about drinking from a dirty cup that was left out for 2 days…your dog will appreciate nice, fresh water whenever they wish for a drink. Keep your Pug‟s ears clean to avoid ear troubles due to common mites and infections. To clean his ears, fill his ear canal with ear cleaner, massage the base of the ear for 30 seconds, then wipe out the loose debris and excess fluid. Talk to him lovingly while you're doing this and give your dog a treat once you are done.

Health Be aware of the signs and symptoms of health issues. Never ignore a possible health issue. Do not skip regular checkups and be sure to perform dental cleanings. Do not dismiss odd behavior as a behavioral problem until you have your Pug checked out at the vet. Your Pug cannot tell you that they are not feeling well or tell you where something hurts. It is up to you to pay close attention to how your puppy or dog is behaving and to seek treatment for any health issues. Your Pug is depending on you.

A Real Family Member Anyone who brings a Pug into their home is not just “getting a dog”. Your Pug is your family member. They should be included in family activities, played with daily, go for walks with you, cuddle with you on the couch &

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most of all, know that they are safe in your home. You are not just your Pug‟s “owner”…you are your Pug‟s mother or father.

Play, Play, Play Dogs need stimulus to be happy. For example, the difference between a dog who is caged all day and one who lives among a loving human family is enormous! Your Pug does not understand that when an owner comes home from a long day at work, that they are tired. Your Pug is craving interaction and play time. Even 20 minutes per day, of throwing a ball or playing “hide and seek” can uplift a dog‟s spirit and make them very happy. Many owners believe that only puppies seek play time…this is not true. A Pug of any age will greatly enjoy those moments that you take time from your day to play with them.

Explore & Learn Dogs love to explore. Dogs are happier when exposed to new stimulus. There are several ways in which this will make a Pug happier. Go for a walk in a new area. Do you always take the same route when walking your dog? Try taking your Pug to a new place; they will love the change of scenery. Whether you take a drive to an out-of- the-way field and run through the grass, go hiking or go to a new dog park… this will engage your dog‟s sense of freedom and exploration. New places = new smells…and a dog loves to sniff! Allow your Pug this pleasure. You can keep your Pug happy by allowing him or her to discover new smells and learn about the world. Be patient and allow them to do this in a relaxed setting, with the freedom to explore new scents.

Chat Away Dogs love to hear the voice of their owner. Just because your Pug cannot answer you back…do not take for granted that your Pug takes great pleasure in being spoken to. No, you will not be talking to yourself! Your Pug is listening…most often, if you can find a quiet time without distraction and you speak to your Pug directly…about anything…they will tilt their head to the side and listen to you intently. Talking to your Pug makes them feel secure and loved.

Freedom

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Dogs do not like to be tied and there is no reason to ever tie your Pug and leave them there, feeling the pressure and stress of confinement. If you are away from home, block off a room or set up a play pen filled with toys, a cozy blanket and water. Never tie your Pug outside to eliminate. Your Pug will spend Â˝ of their time trying to figure out how to unhook the leash! When it is time for them to go outside, go with your Pug, allow them to do their business and then bring them back inside with you or stay outside to play for a while.

To Summarize Yes, your Pug is a dog. But your Pug thinks they are human! So, treat your Pug with as much tender loving care as you would treat any family member. And remember, your Pug cannot tell you what they crave or what will make them happier. Only you can take the steps to keep them happy and content.

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Chapter 108: Pug Quotes to Warm Your Heart "If your Pug doesn't like someone you probably shouldn't either." - Unknown "The Pug was created especially for children. He is the god of frolic." Henry Ward Beecher

"I think dogs are the most amazing creatures; they give unconditional love. For me they are the role model for being alive." - Gilda Radner

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"I've seen a look in dogs' eyes, a quickly vanishing look of amazed contempt, and I am convinced that basically dogs think humans are nuts." John Steinbeck

"Pugs feel very strongly that they should always go with you in the car, in case the need should arise for them to bark at nothing right in your ear." - Dave Barry

You do not own a Pug, the Pug owns you.â&#x20AC;? - Anonymous

"My Pug is usually pleased with what I do, because she is not infected with the concept of what I "should" be doing." Lonzo Idolswine

"No matter how little money and how few possessions you own, having a dog makes you rich." Louis Sabin

"No one appreciates the very special genius of your conversation as the dog does." Christopher Morley

"The one absolutely unselfish friend that man can have in this selfish world, the one that never deserts him, the one that never proves ungrateful or treacherous, is his dog. . . .He will kiss the hand that has no food to offer; he will lick the wounds and sores that come in encounter with the roughness of the world. . . .When all other friends desert, he remains." - George G Vest

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"...it takes a strong minded human to appreciate a stringminded dog!" - Mary Webber

"All knowledge, the totality of all questions and all answers is contained in the dog." - Kafka

Chapter 109: Understand all Terms used in Regard to the Pug Agility: A judged competitive timed events for dogs and their handlers in which dogs are trained to master different obstacles such as: tunnels, bridges, various types of high jumps, jumps through windows, board jumps, and jumps through tires. The course also includes inclined planes, elevated planks to walk, Aframes to climb, and more. Various agility titles are awarded to dogs that successfully complete the course in which they are entered. Angulation: Angles created by bones meeting at their joints. Armband: The number worn on the handler's left arm when in a dog show, that corresponds to the number listed in the official show catalog. Bait: In a dog show, the food or object the handler uses to focus the dog's attention or to have it look alert in the ring. Balance: Overall proportion and symmetry of conformation. Barrel chest: Rounded ribcage. Bear ears: Small erect ears. Bench show: A dog show at which the dogs are kept on assigned benches when not being shown in competition, so they can be viewed and discussed by attendees, exhibitors, and breeders. Best of Opposite Sex: In an AKC conformation dog show, the best dog that is of the opposite sex to the Best of Breed Winner. Best of Winners: In an AKC conformation dog show, the dog judged as best between the Winners Dog and the Winners Bitch. Bitch: Female dog.

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Bite: Relationship of the upper and lower jaws when the mouth is closed. Blunt ears: Ears that are too short and rounded at the tips. Bred-by-Exhibitor Class: AKC term, A regular class for dogs that are owned or co-owned by one of the breeders and shown by one of the breeders or a member of the breeder's immediate family. Breeder: A breeder of a particular dog is the person who owned the dam (mother) at the time she was bred to produce that dog. Breeder-Owner-Handler: Someone who exhibits, owns, and handles the dog they bred. Brisket: Chest or sternum area. Bull-neck: Thick, muscular, often short neck Canine tooth: The first premolar; long grasping tooth or a dog's fang. Cat foot: Short, round foot. Catalog: An AKC term, the official listing of all dogs entered in the show, categorized by breed. Each breed is divided first by sex for class judging of nonchampions. Next, champions are listed in the Best of Breed class. The catalog assigns each dog a number and follows with the dog's name, AKC registration number, date of birth, parentage, and ownership. Catalog Order: See above…ordering of the dogs in the ring for preliminary class judging in the order they appear listed in the catalog. Champion: An AKC title conferred upon a dog that has earned 15 points in competition as a result of defeating a specified number of dogs at a series of AKC dog shows. Close behind: Moving with hocks close together. Cobby: Compact. Often to describe the Pug‟s body, as in a “cobby bodied Pug”. Conformation: The form, structure, shape, and arrangement of the parts of a dog, as they relate and conform to the written standard of the breed. Conformation Dog Show: An event held under AKC rules where championship points are awarded. The purpose is to allow breeders to evaluate the success of their breeding program, with the goal of achieving structure and temperament necessary for the breed's function and to evaluate dogs for use as future breeding stock.

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Crest: Arched area near the top of the neck. Crossing-over: When viewed from the front (or rarely, the rear), the legs converge beyond the midline. Dam: Female parent. Dealer: One who buys and sells dogs bred by others. Dentition: Canine tooth development and eruption. There are 12 deciduous incisors that erupt at four to five weeks of age, three on each side, six in the upper jaw and six in the lower. Behind them are four deciduous canine teeth, one on either side, in the upper and lower jaws that erupt at about the same time as the incisors. The 12 deciduous premolars erupt about a week later, and are positioned behind the canines, three on each side, in the upper and lower jaws. They complete the set of 28 deciduous or milk teeth. At about 3 months of age, the central incisors are replaced by permanent teeth. The four permanent canine teeth are often the last to appear, and typically are not visible until about 6 months of age. Permanent premolars begin to erupt about four months of age. There are four on each side, on both the upper and lower jaws, and the rearmost is usually visible by six months of age. Those 16 permanent teeth take the place of the 12 deciduous premolars. The 2 upper molars on each side and three lower molars on each side also begin to appear at about four months, with the last of the ten erupting at about six months. Those 42 teeth make up the permanent set of adult teeth. Dew claws: Extra toes on the insides of the front, and sometimes, rear legs. Dish-faced: Nose tipped up. Dominance: Assertive characteristics of a dog and its influence over other dogs. Dominant: Alpha dog of a pack that displays a behavior superiority or dominance over other dogs of the pack, and exerts a rule influence. Down in pastern: Weak, overly sloping pastern. Drive: Strong thrust from the hindquarters. Dudley nose: Liver-or flesh-colored nose. Dysplasia: Abnormality of development, especially of the hip or kneecap, but it may refer to an organ of the body. Dystropy: Abnormal behavior; behavior problems. Ear Canker: External ear ulceration and infection.

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Ear Carriage: 1. Describing the way the ears are held, indicating the dog's mood. 2. Position of the ear's attachment to the head. Ear Hematoma: Pocket of blood that occurs between the layers of the ear pinna cartilage and skin. It is often caused by shaking head and whipping the ears due to ear mites or foreign bodies in the external ear canals. Ear Leather: Pinna or flap of the ear. Ear Mange: Redness and crustiness of the ear that is usually caused by ear mites Earmark: Tattoo that is impregnated in the ear leather as a means of permanent identification. Ear Ossicles: Three bones of the middle ear: malleus, incus, and stapes. They transmit sound waves from the eardrum to the otic nerve. Ear Set: Describing where on the head the ears are attached. Ears Set High: Placement of ears high on the crown of the head. Ears Set Low: Placement of the ears set low on the head. Ears Set wide: Placement of the ears on the head at the maximum distance apart. East-west front: When feet turn out to the sides, pointing away from each other. Erect: Perk ear; pinna of the ear that stands erect, either normally or assisted by ear cropping. Eruption: Normal activity of the teeth as they break through the gums. Ewe neck: Neck that is arched so that the top line of the neck is concave and the bottom is convex. Exhibitor: Someone whose dog is entered and shown at a dog show. Expression: The general appearance of all features of the head F1: The result of 2 purebred dogs mated together. The puppies would be F1 puppies F2: Any next step in the breeding program after F1. Often the F1 offspring bred back to a purebred dog. F3: Third cross after F2 and so on 355 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Fancy: The group of people who are especially interested in purebred dogs or in a specific breed. Fanciers usually are active in the sport of purebred dogs. Feathering: Longer fringe hair on ears, tail, or body. Feral Dog: A dog living in a fully wild state. Fiddle front: East-west front combined with a bowed front, so that the assembly looks like a fiddle. Full dentition: No missing teeth. Gait: Way of moving. Groups: All AKC-recognized breeds are a member of one of seven groups: Sporting (dogs developed for the hunting of feathered game); Hound (dogs commonly used for hunting by sight or scent); Working (dogs used to pull carts, guard property, and for search and rescue work); Terrier (dogs originally used to hunt vermin); Toy (dogs characterized by very small size, the Pug is the largest dog breed in this toy group); Non-Sporting (diverse group of multi-functional dogs not generally regarded to be game hunters); and Herding (group of dogs whose main duty is to drive livestock from one place to another). Goose neck: Overly long, thin neck lacking strength and shape. Hackney: High-stepping front movement. Handler: A person or agent who takes a dog into the show ring or who works the dog at a field trial or other performance. Hare foot: Long, narrow foot. Heel: A command to a dog to keep close beside its handler, usually to the left side of the handler High in rear: A dog that is higher over its rear quarters than over its front quarters. High-stationed: Tall and long-legged. Hip dysplasia: A common and debilitating genetic disease of the hips, where the junction of the femur head (large bone in the leg) and the hip socket do not fit as they should. Often, surgery is necessary to correct the problem. This operation often costs an owner about $1000 per hip. Hock: Joint on the hind limb between lower thigh and pastern. Since the hock is a joint it cannot itself be long or short; terms such as long or short in hock refer to the distance between the hock joint and the ground. 356 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

In and In: Inbreeding of dogs without regards to results. Inbred: Descriptive of offspring of mated dogs that are closely related to each other. Inbreeding: Practice of mating siblings to each other: father to daughter, mother to son, or other animals closely related to each other. Incisors: Any one of the "biting off" or "cutting" teeth directly in the front of the mouth. There are six incisors in the upper jaw, six in the lower. They are named central, intermediate, and corner. Junior Handler: Person between the ages of 10 and 18 who competes in an AKC-sponsored class called Junior Showmanship. Junior handlers are judged on their ability to show and handle their dog, not on the quality of the dog. Kennel: 1. Backyard doghouse where family pets or breeding stock are kept. 2. Commercial establishment used to maintain a group of dogs, such as a boarding kennel. Kennel Type: Bloodline or strain of dogs that has been developed by an individual breeder in a specific kennel. Lay back: Angle at which the shoulders are set on the dog's body. Level bite: When upper and lower incisors meet evenly Line: 1. Family of related dogs, usually bred by a single kennel. Linebreeding: Mating two dogs that have the same bloodline but are not closely related; a technique used to concentrate and fix genetic features in dog. Lineage: Genealogical decent from a common ancestor; dog's pedigree or family tree. Loin: Region between the ribcage and croup. Loose movement: Erratic movement suggestive of poor muscle development. Lower thigh: Area from stifle to hock, also called second thigh. Lumbering: Heavy, ungainly movement. Match show: A usually informal dog show at which no championship points are awarded. This does not show on your dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s record. Metacarpus: Referring to bones leading from the carpus (wrist) to the toes; anatomical region of the forepastern. 357 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

OFA: Orthopedic Foundation for Animals OFA Certified: A dogâ&#x20AC;&#x;s hips have been x-rayed for hip dysplasia, a very common and debilitating genetic disease. Over bite: When upper incisors overlap lower incisors, leaving a gap between the teeth. Pacing: Moving both legs on the same side of the body in unison, as though hobbled together. Paper foot: Flat foot. Pariah Dog: Is used as a generic term for dogs with a more or less intensive human connection. Pastern: Region of the metatarsus that extends from the hock to the foot in the hind leg, and the metacarpal area of the foreleg. Pedigree: The written record of a dog's family tree of three or more generations. Pinna: The outer part of the ear Plucking: Pulling out loose hair by hand. Pounding: Front feet hitting the ground with a jarring reaction. Premolars: Smaller teeth situated just to the rear of the fangs (canines). Professional Handler: Person who shows dogs for a fee. Puppy Mill: Place in which puppies are bred, often in unsuitable and sometimes inhumane conditions, for sale to dealers. Pure-Bred: A dog who has parents of the same breed. Racy: Long-legged with a slight build. Rangy: Long-bodied with a shallow chest. Reach: Length of forward stride. Register: To record a dog's parentage with a dog club such as the AKC. Rib spring: Arch formed by the ribcage; more spring refers to more arch. Scissors bite: When upper incisors just overlap lower incisors, such that the rear surface of the upper incisors touches the outer surface of the lower incisors. 358 ÂŠPetPugDog. All rights reserved.

Semidrop ears: Ears that fall over the breaks at the tip. Shelly: Narrow, shallow chest and body. Short-coupled: Short loin area. Single tracking: As viewed from the front or rear, the legs converge toward the center line of balance as the dog trots. Sire: Male parent. Sound: Good moment viewed from the front and rear. Soundness: Mental and physical well-being of the dog. Splay foot: Toes that are not close together. Square-proportioned: Height at withers equal to length from point of sternum to point of croup. Stacking: Teaching a dog to stand in a show stance that exhibits its characteristics favorably. Standard: The official blueprint for a breed. Stifle: Knee joint; articulation between the tibia and fibula and the femur. Substance: Fairly heavy bone and musculature. Swayback: A sunken, concave topline. Throaty neck: Neck with loose skin. Topline: Line formed by the withers, back, loin, and croup. Trotting: Moving diagonal legs in unison. Tuck-up: Area under the loin in a small waisted dog. Typey: Having a superior body conformation; meeting the breeds standard. Undershot bite: When lower incisors extend beyond upper incisors. Weedy: Lacking sufficient bone and musculature. Wicket: Device for measuring the height of a dog, consisting of two vertical bars joined by a horizontal bar that can be adjusted for height.

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Chapter 110: Only Then Did I Really Know

As a child, I lived with my parents in the city and all focus was on my education. We lived in a high-rise and I never dared ask to have a pet. After High School, came college and I focused my attention even further on my goals. Receiving my degree in Business Management, I moved to the frantic city of New York at the age of twenty-five; my life was going just as I planned. Settled into a nice apartment, I had all that I wanted: a nice home, a great career, and good friends. I did not know that anything was missing. I discovered a lot was missing and my journey to finding this out originated from the request of a co-worker. After hours, she was a volunteer for an animal rescue and was asking around the office if anyone would be interested in fostering a Pug who had just been rescued from a cruel and neglectful owner. The dog was in a shelter; awaiting help. When she approached my desk, I continued to look straight at my computer. I tried with all of my might to divert my eyes from her. After ten “Um, hums”, I finally turned to face her. Looking directly at me, she politely asked me to name one reason why I felt I could not

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be of help. I thought and thought and quite honestly I could not think of one legitimate reason other than my own selfishness. I was thinking about whether I would actually verbalize that to her. I took a few seconds to play that scenario out in my mine…what her reactions would be. Then the words came out of my mouth before I knew what was happening and the next thing I knew, I was setting up appointments to have my home inspected for safety and signing papers to accept my foster dog. What in the world did I do? Did I have some type of selfdestructive tendencies? My perfect apartment in the heartbeat of the city…now being inspected so that some dog I didn’t know would live there? I made a note in my Blackberry to find a good therapist. I didn’t have a lot of experience with dogs; and I simply thought of them as creatures that barked and needed to be fed a lot. I had a lot of learning to do. I was told that I would be picking up the dog, named Oreo, from a shelter on the outskirts of the city.

I was told that this was a kill-

shelter that the dog was in and that time was of the essence. As soon as the home inspection was done, I was told to be able to go on moment’s notice. When the phone call came in to tell me it was time for me to go, I quickly sat up from my sofa and was on my way. I was told what killshelters were, and I didn’t give it a lot of thought as I knew I was going to just be picking up Oreo and taking him home. That was it, I

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was no hero, I was just some naïve person who got suckered into taking care of a dog…when I didn’t even know if I could handle a dog. But if my father taught me one thing, it was that no matter what I did, to give it my best. I was determined to follow that advice for my entire life. The drive was rather long, I slowly edged out of the city and the roads became more rural. I curved through some suburban neighborhoods, those type you see in the movies where everyone’s yards looked perfect, white picket fences and all. “Oreo”, I sighed to myself, as I checked my directions and then continued driving into a rather run-down area. The roads became rather bumpy. Houses were sparse. Colors were faded. Even the trees seemed to say, “I don’t want to be here”. My eyes grew weary as I finally came to the end of a long street. All I saw was a dirt road and checked my directions again to make sure I had not taken a wrong turn. I was indeed in the correct area, and I slowly drove up the dirt road and came upon a building. Small in size, with a chain fence in the back of it, it seemed ready to fall over. Leaning to one side, paint peeling off and with cracked windows, had it not been for the sounds of some barks I would have never known this was a shelter. I got out of my car and clutched my purse rather tightly. I made a point to stand up straight and smoothed the wrinkles out of my

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slacks. I wanted to look professional, no matter what this “place” looked like. I slowly approached and I was stopped dead in my tracks. The fact that this place was called a shelter was a malicious twist of the word; Out in the back, a man was pulling the bodies of dogs out of a smaller structure; one, two, three, four, five…he was piling them on top of one another. I almost fell backwards when the reality hit me of what I was witnessing. A million people could have told me what a killshelter was, however only at that moment had I really understood. I looked at the emotionless face on the man… and only then did I really know. A woman came quickly out of the front door of the building and hastily ushered me. We made fast introductions and I muttered my name as my mind flashed to what I had just seen. She told me to wait a moment…and then she brought out Oreo. I was told to expect a dog that was malnourished and in need of loving care. The dog that was brought out to me seemed to be a living miracle. His bones stuck out of his body; and his torso was so tiny that his head looked huge in comparison. He had enormous brown eyes that seemed to pop from his face, he looked at me with pure sorrow and the glaze on his eyes spoke all the words he would have ever had to say at that time. It did not seem possible that he was still surviving. Each breath of the dog made his bones even more noticeable and I felt physical pain just looking at his suffering.

All images I had

regarding severely malnourished dogs were whisked from my mind. I

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looked at Oreo, saw his skeletal body… and only then did I really know. Taking Oreo and hugging him carefully, I left and followed the plan just as I had been asked to do. I brought him immediately to a well known veterinarian who worked often with the rescue group. Oreo was found to have Kennel Cough, an infectious cut on his paw and, of course, he was in great need of nutrition. With IV medicine and detailed orders from the veterinarian, I brought Oreo home two days later. Oreo was so timid and I felt helpless as I saw him slowly walking into the house. He was not afraid to come in; he just hung his head low as if he was going to accept any fate dealt to him. immediate comfort, a blanket, toys and a treat.

I offered him Oreo sat there,

staring at me. He looked at my offerings and then back into my eyes. I thought all dogs would not think twice about grabbing a tasty treat or a toy.

I did not know that some dogs never had been given

anything out of kindness. Oreo simply did not know what to do. I picked up the treat and slowly brought it to his mouth. With one last look at me, he cautiously took it. Oreo’s behavior made me realize that my perception of dogs was never correct, that there were many who were never treated as creatures of God, never given an ounce of love. All dogs were not the same; I looked at Oreo chewing on his treat… and only then did I really know. Each day with Oreo brought new experiences. With vet checkups, medicine and plenty of healthy food, Oreo was thriving. He began to

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trust me; bath time became a favorite activity, as he let his shyness leave and he would dance around in the bubbles. Afraid at first to make a wrong move, after a couple of months Oreo would run happily though the yard playing ball with me. Jumping into bed with me one night, I held back the covers for him without even thinking about it.

As Oreo snuggled next to me, I

thought about how months earlier I had believed I had everything I wanted and needed.

I was indeed missing something all of those

years and I knew I would be picking up the phone in the morning to tell the rescue that I wished to have Oreo become a permanent family member. I never knew I could love a dog so much. As I lightly touched Oreoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s forehead, I felt such an overwhelming feeling of peace come over me...and only then did I really know.

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Chapter 111: Unconditional

I was telling my friend how I was excited about my new pending arrival. As a volunteer foster for rescued dogs, I talked about my efforts as often as I could and whenever anyone would actually listen to me. When I told my friend of the new dog that was to come to me that day, she gave me a look of skepticism. The female dog had lived her life in a Puppy Mill; forced to give birth over and over. As her body began to give out, the owners discarded her. Found wandering in a park, a compassionate person alerted the rescue and we had quickly scooped her up. After having extensive tests run by the veterinarian, she was found to be in severe distress. She would need to have a major operation, she was extremely malnourished and she was suffered pure terror when next to any human. She would need to gain some strength before she was able to go into surgery. When my friend asked me if I was really going to “deal” with this dog, I told her,” Yes, my love is unconditional.” The dog, whom I renamed Sugar, was brought to me on a Saturday afternoon. I opened my door to see a very fragile looking soul; her eyes looked up at me with great weariness. Hesitant to even enter my home, she slowly reached out her paw across my doorstep. I walked further into my living room, speaking quietly and urging Sugar to come to me. She walked no further than one foot passed the entry

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way; and then she lay down. Any movement from me caused her to lay as flat as she could. She seemed to want to blend into the carpet; as not to be seen. She continued to lay still but her eyes followed me as I left the room to prepare her dinner. Bringing back a healthy portion of dog food, I settled the dish near her. She did not move; in fact, she seemed to sink down into the carpet even further.

I stepped back quite a

distance, and only then did she dare to lift her head. With what seemed to be great effort, she bravely eased herself to the dish and began to eat. My phone rang and I found the call to be from my friend who wanted to know how my “new delivery” was working out. As I told her of how frightened Sugar was, she asked me if I really could handle taking care of a dog that was too afraid to even let me approach her. “Unconditional” was my answer. That night, Sugar would not allow me near her when I gently tried to connect her leash to take her outside. I thought of picking her up, but knew this may traumatize her even further and I was not sure if my back could handle it. I went to retrieve a treat, thinking perhaps I could tempt her with this and lead her outside. When I returned, I found she had eliminated in my living room. As I approached, her body shook with terror. Her eyes popped wide open and she seemed terrified that I would be angry. I cleaned up her area, thinking of the long road Sugar and I needed to journey on together. When my friend called again and I told her of Sugar’s accident, she asked how I

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had the patience to let such a thing happen. “Unconditional”, I told her. Over the next week, Sugar slowly became accustomed to my home in the best possible way she was able to at the time. Step-by-step she began to trust me; she would come over to her food and would wag her tail a bit. She began to walk with me as I leashed her to go outside. She had an elegant grace about her; that despite all she had been through, nothing could take away her beauty. In the evenings she would quietly sit beside me and we would watch television shows together. She was able to gain enough weight and regain enough strength to endure her needed operation. Handing her to one of the most respected veterinarians that I had ever known; I sat in the waiting room and prayed. It was the longest few hours I had ever spent. Finally, the vet came to tell me the news. I froze, just as Sugar had when she first came to me; I was afraid. Being told that Sugar had made it through the surgery; I felt an enormous weight lifted from my shoulders. I brought her home the next day, fully aware of the great care she would need to recover properly. Sugar needed to rest, she needed constant attention to make sure no signs of infection were present and I became her nurse. While working, taking care of my home and taking care of myself, I also never let Sugar feel she was alone. On one dreadfully exhausting day, after cleaning her stitches and giving her medicine, I sat down to rest

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and my phone rang. My friend called again, this time asking me how I possibly found the energy to devote all of my efforts to nursing Sugar. “Unconditional”, I said. Sugar slowly recovered from her operation, she was now the proper weight and pranced around as if not only had her medical problems been treated, she seemed to have had the terrible memories of her former life treated as well. She became a cheerful, wonderful dog; and she jumps and barks, begging me to take her outside to walk and play. She is my best friend now, part of my family. As we lay in bed at night and she snuggles under the covers with me, I hug her and whisper into her ear, “Unconditional”.

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Chapter 112: As the Man…

The dog was barely ten weeks old when he was tossed out of the car. His mother had given birth to three puppies and when the owner decided no one was going to buy the dog with the funny coloring and uneven ears, he was disposed of in the easiest fashion the owner could think of. He didn’t care…he had over 100 dogs crammed into crates in his yard. As the man drove away and turned up the music in his truck, the dog was left on the banks of a river, dazed and disorientated. Completely at a loss, he had no idea which way to walk. Stumbling through the thick brush, he made his way to the water. Ravaged with hunger and thirst, he scanned the area for any signs of food. Settling on lapping some of the river’s water, he sensed night approaching. As the man sat in his recliner and turned on his TV, the dog began to whimper. The dog was accustomed to his pen, his mother, and his brothers. He felt desolated, as he slowly roamed the area. Instinct told him to head towards comfort; but there was no comfort to be found. As the sun set, he lay down among the tall grasses and he curled up into a tiny ball. As the man woke up and downed his coffee and breakfast, the dog was startled awake by the sound of birds; the puppy faced another day. With intense hunger and a need for shelter, the puppy walked with no destination, wandering into the woods. Hearing a car pass by

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every now and then in the faint distance, they puppy would let out a faint bark; but no one heard him. As the day wore on, all he could do was rove as hunger pains began to rip through his body. As the man closed his door to the pending rainstorm, the puppy began to feel very cold. As rain began to pour down in sheets, instinct told him to find a warm place to hide; but there was no shelter to be found. Emaciated and terrified, the puppy grew too weak to continue his endless walk.

His body was shutting down, he needed food

desperately. As the man sat in his house, stuffing his stomach full of food, drinking beer and watching a baseball game, the puppy lay against a tree, his breathing labored. The waves of pain took over; he was too weak to make a sound. As the man drank the last sip of beer from his bottle, the puppy could no longer keep his eyes open.

As the man got up to help himself to

another helping of his beef stew, the puppy’s breathing slowed down. As the man cheered as his team hit a homerun, the puppy’s soul slipped away from his body and he crossed over into Heaven’s Rainbow Bridge. As the man talked to his friend about the next litter of pups soon to come, the puppy looked down from the Rainbow Bridge and a tear fell from his eye.

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Chapter 113: Henry’s Hesitation

Henry J. Walters is a man of great dignity.

He was proud of the

work he did before his retirement; as he owned a very thriving hardwood store. Long before the days of the large chains of home supply stores, the 1950’s was a booming time for his business. He enjoyed a loving marriage to his dear Marie; she passed on five years earlier. With arthritis settling in and feeling the weight of his years, Henry settled into his life at his retirement home. Preferring to stay alone most of the time, Henry’s favorite activity was to quietly sit in his chair and remember the days when he was young and prosperous. His marriage gave him wonderful memories and he would spend hours thinking about his son who lived over 1,000 miles away. Yes, Henry had accepted the fact that he would live out the rest of his days this way. He was content; he never did like changes. However, a very big change occurred one day, as his attendant told Henry he should go to the Recreation Room immediately following lunch. Henry was accustomed the comfort of his lonely existence and he balked at the idea of participating in anything. Sitting alone in his room, he heard a knock on the door.

His

attendant stated that if Henry didn’t want to see a special visitor, he had brought the visitor to see him. Looking straight at the man, Henry asked just where this visitor was. The attendant looked down,

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Henry looked down, and a pair of bright blue eyes peered up from behind the attendant. Henry was looking at a Pug.

She was not a

puppy; she seemed mature, quiet and you could sense the intelligence of the dog. Very surprised that a dog was in his room, Henry expressed that he wanted to be left alone to sit out the afternoon. “Take a few minutes with Lizzy, she’s a great visitor”, the attendant told him. Ensuring that he put extra loud noise into rising from his chair to emphasize his hesitation, Henry walked over and took the leash of the dog. With the opportunity of spending time with his surprise visitor, Henry’s mind began to spin with ideas. First, motioned for the dog to leap up onto his bed and told her of his life before retirement; the dog listened dutifully. Deciding to reach out to the dog, Henry began to pat Lizzy and something happened that rarely occurred in the last five years: Henry smiled. Lizzy seemed to soak up the attention and seemed to be smiling herself. “Let’s see what we have.” Henry said, as he scanned the room. Quite pleased, he gave Lizzy a cracker from his tray; the dog showed great joy. By the time the attendant came back, Henry was sitting in his chair, the dog right beside him, Henry’s right hand stroking her head and his left hand pointing out of the window to show her the area. “Lizzy is a senior dog who desperately is seeking a senior companion, what do you think, Henry?” the attendant asked. Looking down at Lizzy and realizing he was actually not alone in his

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chair anymore; Henry smiled and simply gave the attendant a quick nod. The two are now inseparable as Henry does a lot more than sit in his chair. Lizzy and Henry take strolls around the home and they both walk proud; as proud as Henry was before his retirement. He receives many compliments on what a fine companion he has. Henry allows his Pug to lie under the covers of his bed at night and he takes pleasure in hearing the soft breathing of a living creature; warm and cuddly beside him. Henry tries to keep it a secret that he saves all of his crackers for Lizzy, as she deeply enjoys them. Now, Henry can still sometimes be found sitting in his chair, but he is no longer aloneâ&#x20AC;Ś he sits with Lizzy and he tells her all of the memories of his dear wife and son. As he hugs his Pug, he speaks with a smile that radiates.

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Chapter 114: Don’t Sneeze

The dog was small for his breed, what one would call the “runt of the litter”. He sat patiently waiting on the door-step, he look like a little statue. His breeder held her breath. She knew that she found a perfectly loving home for this little Pug; however she was still a bit nervous as she knew this particular Pug was extremely shy. “Would his new home be able to handle this?” she thought to herself as she bent down to pat the little Pug. She tried her best to socialize this Pug, just as she had with all of her “babies”. However, this little Pug just seemed afraid of any loud noise. He was now sitting on the steps of his new adoptive family and no one would ever know of his fears; if all was kept relatively quiet. When his new owner opened the door, he was fine. Being told of the dog’s personality, she made sure to speak in a soft tone. She had also made sure that her husband and daughter knew of the need to never yell or be loud; their new canine family member would need time to adjust. As the family led a very quiet life, the breeder knew she had found a perfect home for the dog; renamed Whisper. Whisper was welcomed with loving arms and was greeted with smiles. He slowly walked through the home, checking out his new surroundings. He quickly bonded, he seemed to soak up all acts of

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kindness and soon he was a true family member. Gaining trust and love, Whisper seemed to become accustomed to noises. He even learned to remain rather calm when hearing sirens or when a door was accidently closed to hard. At night, they would all sit around the television to watch movies. One night, while enjoying each other’s company and watching a film, Whisper’s new father felt a tickle in his nose. Just as he started to think that perhaps his Hay Fever allergies were kicking in, he let out a sneeze. Whisper jumped three feet in the air, his eyes popped wide open and he bolted behind a chair. Shaking and terrified, he huddled down on the floor, trying to hide. His family ran to comfort him and with agreeing looks, they silently established that sneezing could not be allowed. Why Whisper only reacted to sneezing will never be known, but he certainly provided the family with a challenge. As Whisper’s new father was indeed suffering from allergies, he did all he could to never sneeze. Sitting at dinner one night, he felt a tickle begin in his nose. “Oh, no” was all he needed to say and the family sprung into action. His wife ran over to him and squeezed his nose closed; his daughter ran to get a towel and covered his face. Trying to see with the towel over his head and with his wife connected to him by his nose, with all the might in his body, he made it outside to finally let the sneeze come out. Sitting in the living room one day, reading the newspaper, the family clearly heard the father speak the key words again, “Oh, no”. Another

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spontaneous plan was implemented. The daughter grabbed a pillow off of the couch and began to press it against her father’s face. His wife ran to get allergy medication. With a muffled voice, the father asked for more pillows. As his wife and daughter held five pillows on his head, he sneezed as quietly as he could. Ensuring he was taking the best possible allergy medicine available, the whole family prayed his Hay Fever would soon end. Outside one day, enjoying a barbeque, Whisper happily played in the yard as the family enjoyed the day. As everyone sat down to eat, Whisper walked over to have his portion too. And then, Whisper paused. He did not move. He got a funny look in his eyes and the family gave him a questioning look back. And then, with the family quietly staring at him to see what was happening: Whisper sneezed. After doing so, he simply finished walking to his food. One minute afterwards, the father stated the two words that would pause their dinner, “Oh, no”. As his wife and daughter just began to rise to find some type of sneeze buffer, he had no control over this one…a quick and loud sneeze came bursting out. Whipping their heads around to see Whisper’s reaction, they saw a miracle; Whisper was eating his food with joy and looked up at them as if to say, “What are you all looking at?”

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Chapter 115: The Seasons

It was summer time when the puppy was born. Its breeder found it easier to plan his dog’s to give birth in the summer, as he could keep them outside in wire kennels. Huddled to his mother, the puppy felt so safe and he drank his mother’s milk in peace. Not long after, he was taken away from her and put into a smaller cage outside. He could hear the barking of other dogs; he longed to be able to break free from his imprisonment and play with them. Quite often, on these hot summer days, he was direly thirsty and grew weak as he had to wait for his owners to bring him water. He received some shade from the tree that was nearby. As the sun moved across the sky, he would move along with it to stay in the shadow of the tree. Outside at night, the summer brought many mosquitoes and the puppy was defenseless. As they bit him unmercifully, he tried to paw them away, but summer nights brought them out in swarms. As his owners sat comfortable in their air-conditioned home, the puppy was indeed in trouble.

When autumn came around, the owners were quite unhappy with the growing puppy. He was increasing in age and still no one wanted to buy him. “What a waste” the owner said, as he threw some old pieces of meat to the dog. Gobbling up the dried out food, the dog quickly devoured the small portion. The owners decided they needed the dog’s cage for penning up other dogs; puppies that had been born in a new litter. The dog was tied to the tree that was next to the cage.

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As the autumn leaves fell slowly to the ground, the dog lay down with great desperation. As each leaf fell, a tear fell from the puppy’s eyes. He began to feel ill and was hungry. The mosquitoes that had ravaged his body the previous summer had caused the dog to contract Heartworms.

As each day caused more leaves to fall from his tree,

each day the dog’s suffering grew. Ignored by his owners, he was completely helpless and alone. He huddled against that tree; it was his only form of shelter in the cruel world he was born into.

Wintertime came and it brought cold and the harsh winds.

The

tree has lost all of its leaves; it swayed in the blustery weather as its bare branches seemed to be reaching out for help in escaping the cold winds. The dog wished for escape as well. He was not moved into warm shelter, his owners felt he was not worth the bother.

remained tied to that tree; by now it was as if he and the tree were one and the same. Hardly fed, attempting in vain to keep warm in the cold weather and with the Heartworms attacking his body, the fragile little dog was in great despair. He lapped up the freezing rains as they puddle underneath his tree. His body was slowly withering away, he grew skinnier each day. Hunger pains coursed through his body and he found it difficult to move. His limps were weak, his bones hurt. By the time winter was ending, the dog could not even stand up. He lay in agony; he was not even able to bark.

Springtime finally sprung and the dog still lay under the tree.

His

breathing shallow and his body wracked with pain; he suffered in silence. No food was brought to him anymore, no water; his owners

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were looking forward to not having to bother with him anymore. Warm breezes blew in and the sunshine began to warm the ground. The dog felt a slight touch of peace when the sun shined on his battered body.

As butterflies flew around him and bumble bees

hovered in the air, the dog could no longer keep his eyes open. As the tree began to burst with springtime buds and new life began to form, the dog could no longer hold on. With one last breath and one last glance at the tree that rose above him; the dog slipped away and crossed over to the Rainbow Bridge.

Please be careful where you purchase your Pug! Several of the stories you have read were written to make people aware of backyard breeders, Puppy Mills and those who have no regard for the life of a dog. Please cherish every moment you have with your canine family member… for there are so many other dogs in the world who are crying out for a loving home. Enjoy every day together…and please do all you can to keep your Pug happy & healthy…

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Chapter 116: Your Special Email Address & Secret Code for any Pug Questions We hope that you have enjoyed the PetPugDog Book – The Secret Keys for a Happy & Healthy Pug… Don‟t forget to keep coming back to the PetPugDog website, for new information. You will find fresh information each week: In the Pug Topic of the Month If you are not already an PetPugDog Member, do be sure to join (it is free and easy). Joining the PetPugDog family will: Allow you to receive updates when we add new Pug information & new sections Suggest a topic for the Topic of the Month

Click here for the PetPugDog website If you have any Pug questions please follow these instructions: 1. Email the following information: a. Your first name b. Your Pug‟s name c. The age of your Pug d. The gender of your Pug e. Any previous medical conditions f. Your question in as much detail as you can offer 2. This must be sent to the following email address and the secret code must be in the subject line: a. Send your question to book@petpugdog.com b. Enter the following code in the subject line: 3935889 3. We reserve the right to print the Question & Answer on the PetPugDog website, if we feel that it will help many Pug owners. Your name and information will remain anonymous and confidential. If following these instructions, your question will be answered by the PetPugDog Experts within 3 days. The answer will be sent to the email address from which you send your email from. Love, Hugs & Pug Dog Kisses ~ The PetPugDog Team

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