Sharks in the surf

Back in 1999, my great friend Steve McGuire discovered a unique fishing opportunity in Namibia on the west coast of Africa. The locations were remote, the fishing was hectic. Commonly, four or five clients would catch 15 or more sharks a day and all would catch at least one in excess of 100Kg within a few days. With excellent handling practices and tagging programmes, everything was looking fantastically sustainable for this world class sport fishery. Sadly, and in this case tragically, as they say all good things must come to an end. In 2005 the first of the Chinese commercial fishing (finning to be more precise) steamed over the horizon and began decimating the shark population with an intensity and efficiency that is truly chilling. Eighteen months later, sport fishing for sharks along this coast was no longer viable for paying clients and Steve reluctantly brought his operation to a close.

Let us fast-forward almost 15 years. Shark populations in Namibia and Angola have yet to recover but I have found a new destination offering shark fishing of an even higher standard. The new areas are located on the stunning coastline of KwaZulu-Natal (KZN) and the Eastern Cape in South Africa. Here the south Indian Ocean is cool and hugely nutrient rich, sustaining incredible fish populations and consequently many species of shark. Whilst I will always remember the good times in Namibia this new destination has much more to offer in terms of vast areas of unfished shoreline, breath taking locations and an incredible array of large fish species.

As well as thriving shark populations, the Ocean here is alive with a smorgasbord of large edible fish like Kob (Argyrosomus hololepidotus), Garrick (Lichia amia) and the awesome Black Mussel Cracker (Cymatoceps nastus) as well as real life monsters like the giant black stingrays (Bathytoshia brevicaudata).

The species list of interest to sport fishermen is far too long to detail here but I will take the opportunity to name the main target species of large shark; Grey (Carcharhinus obscurus) 200kg+, Tiger (Galeocerdo cuvier) 300kg+, Ragged tooth (Carcharias Taurus) 200Kg+, Bronzies 150Kg+ and three types of Hammerhead. Not to be included on the target list is the legendary Great White (Carchardon Carcharias) which is strongly protected by law in South Africa.

Whilst good sport can be had at any time, the best for sharks is the summer months from November to March. However, it would be remiss of me not to mention the epic “Sardine run” that happens most years around June/July. At this time, an estimated 5 billion Sardines are swept northward along the eastern coast of South Africa as a result of a current of cold water surging up from the South.

At certain “pinch points” along the coastline the Sardines are concentrated in a bewildering density and attract the largest concentration of predators anywhere on earth. The frenzied feasting that ensues provides one of nature’s most spectacular events. Now, a super-pod of Common dolphin (Delphinus delphis) in excess of 5000, thousands of large sharks and tens of thousands of diving Gannets embark on a sustained attack on the Sardine lasting for several weeks. If you know where to go and conditions are favourable some unique fishing can be had. Fancy a spot of shallow wading in the surf whilst sight fishing for 3m plus sharks?

In summer, temperatures on the beach can be well into the high 30’s and the strength of the sun is dangerous. After 18 years of fishing many hot locations around the world I now favour covering up completely with modern hitech clothing which is super thin and cool whilst affording almost a 100% sun block. I only tend to use sun cream on my hands, cheeks and nose whilst using a Buff type snood to cover as much of my face as possible.

Central to many locations we target is the Addo Elephant National park, the third largest in South Africa. Here many species of antelope are in abundance and all big 5 species roam free. It also encompasses the Alexandria dune field which is the largest and most pristine coastal dune field in the southern hemisphere. Fishing here can involve staying in various locations dependent on species targe- ted and prevailing sea conditions. Without doubt my favourite place to stay is the historical albeit quirky, Alexandria fishing club. This was founded in 1953 by local anglers who wanted accommodation near the coast and somewhere to provide a focal point for fishing competitions and social events. It is a place steeped in South African angling history with black and white photos of famous anglers and huge fish from years gone by decorating the walls. Despite its basic nature, I cannot stress enough what a lovely place this is to unwind after a day’s fishing. A place to swap stories, boast of your success or bemoan a shark’s.

Driving on beaches in South Africa is in general forbidden, however Andre always seems to know some hidden track that will get you as close as possible to the hot spots. For sure, there are some locations that require a considerable yomp across steep sand dunes but if you aren’t up to this then there are always other options. It goes without saying that the tackle used to stand even the remotest chance of beaching one of these leviathans is highly specialised. To start with there are the immensely powerful rods with unfeasibly long handles to allow for the specialised casting technique required to launch baits and sinkers over 1Kg way out into the blue. Two favourites are the Berkley Medusa at 15’6” and the Okuma Makira at 15’. Then we have the powerhouse fixed spool reels or grinders as they are called locally. Popular ones are the Penn slammer III in 10500 size and the Shimano Saragossa 25000. Both capable of holding over 800m of 65lb modern braid. Back in Namibia days we always used large multipliers but things have moved on and drag power of the new generation fixed spool reel is incredible. To combat the sharks wickedly rough skin, a braided 4m leader of about 300lbs leads down to the hook length which is 1m of 300-400lb wire trace. Hooks are obviously huge, size 12/0-16/0 and for shark welfare we now only use circle hooks. These have been slow to catch on with anglers I believe because on first examination they really don’t seem to make sense. With a drastically in-turned point it is easy to see why so many are reluctant to use them. However, so long as you don’t strike on the take, circle hooks are fantastic.

The author with a ragged-teeth shark.

The important advantage of a circle hook is that they are very fish friendly, even with such substantial pieces of ironmongery and the toughness of a large shark’s mouth, it is very straight forward to remove the hook by hand without any specialised unhooking equipment. Furthermore, should a shark break the line on a rock or empty the spool, as soon as the pressure is taken off a circle hook it will quickly drop away safely. So, this all sounds like a fantastically relaxing fishing experience and so it is, well at least until the bite occurs. Your rod will be sat sedately in a rod holder deeply embedded in the sand when out of the blue it will arch over and line will start to pull from the reel, sometimes slowly at other times so fast it seems like the spool is going to take off. Now it’s time to step up to one of anglings toughest challenges, fighting a huge and very angry shark from the shore.

Even the heftiest of guys will be wrenched forward as the line tightens and the circle hook finds its mark. It is likely that even with a modest sized shark the first run will be in excess of 200m, usually more. At this point it is important not to try and fight. No doubt you will feel elated as you gain metre after metre hauling probably the biggest fish of your life towards the shore, visions of incredible trophy shots flashing through your mind. It’s a nice thought but unfortunately for you this excitement is very premature. After you gain a few metres expect your adversary to be a little irritated by the situation and he will surely head out again into the blue yonder. A minimum of 40 minutes later expect to have experienced at least 4 or 5 back breaking runs with some intermittent gains on your part. It is now time to up the pressure even more as you watch in wonder as the intimidating dorsal fin parts the water at alarming speed. You are getting there but its not over yet. A decent sized shark will do its damnest to stay behind the second or third breaker for another 10 or 20 minutes, unfortunately a big shark may just charge right out into the ocean once more and you will have to start all over again, sorry.

At close range every lunge from the shark will yank you towards the water with sobering force. It is at this point you experience the undiluted, raw strength of these incredible animals. Now for the hard bit. Our toothy friend really will not want to come through that final breaker, he knows its not right. It is time to use the strength you never knew you had and up the pressure and take the tackle to its limits, its tough. You are unlikely to succeed on your first or second attempt but come through that breaker it must. With jelly like thighs just as you feel that you can’t take any more suddenly Andre and the guys will run into the surf to the shark which is viciously thrashing the water to a foam. To be able to touch one of the oceans largest apex predators is a rare thing. Depending on location and species the shark may be tagged for research purposes. Immediately after this the team will carefully turn its toothy head into the first breaker. Now it’s time to watch in awe as the powerful tail sweeps from side to side and the formidable dark dorsal fin sinks slowly beneath the bright white foam.

After dark is a magical time here when you can sit by a driftwood fire with the sea breeze on your face whilst the rhythm of the ocean soothes your soul. To expectantly scan for breaching Southern Wright whales or follow a pod of dolphins playing along the waves are very special experiences. On some evenings you will be treated to the ocean’s bioluminescent display; this otherworldly planktonic spectacle can vary from jaw dropping explosions of electric blue light following the line of the breakers to gentle pulses of light around your feet as you tread the wet sand.

There we have it, after years of searching, giant shore caught sharks are well and truly back on the adventure anglers’ map.

Beware of the ragged teeth's mean jaws