VOLUME 46 / ISSUE 1
JANUARY 2013
WALK
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Volume 46 / Issue 1
January 2013 Group Publisher / Editor In Chief James Hartford jhartford@sportsonesource.com 704.987.3450
HIKE REMOVABLE CARBIDE STEEL SPIKES
REFLECTIVE PERFORMANCE STRAP AND HEEL TAB
ABRASION RESISTANT 1.4 MM STEEL COILS
Senior Business Editor Thomas J. Ryan tryan@sportsonesource.com 917.375.4699
VP Business Development / East Barry Gauthier barry@sportsonesource.com 774.553.5312
Contributing Editors Aaron H. Bible Fernando J. Delgado Charlie Lunan Matt Powell
VP Business Development / West Barry Schrimsher bschrimsher@sportsonesource.com 503.784.6267
Creative Director Teresa Hartford teresa@sportsonesource.com 704.987.3450 (x105)
VP Marketing / Product Development Gregg Hartley ghartley@sportsonesource.com 561.543.7789
Graphic Designer Camila Amortegui camila@sportsonesource.com 704.987.3450 (x103)
Retail Relationship Manager Jennifer SoulĂŠ jsoule@sportsonesource.com 303.997.7302
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Advertising Sales Account Manager / Northeast Buz Keenan buz@sportsonesource.com 201.887.5112 Advertising Sales Account Managers / Midwest Barry Kingwill bkingwill@sportsonesource.com 847.537.9196 Jim Kingwill jkingwill@sportsonesource.com 847.537.9196 Advertising Sales Account Manager / Southeast Katie O'Donohue katieo@sportsonesource.com 828.244.3043
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SGB, Volume 46, Issue 1, (USPS 457-390; ISSN 1548-7407) is published monthly plus a special December Issue by SportsOneSource, LLC., 2151 Hawkins Street, Suite 200, Charlotte, NC 28203; 704.987.3450. Subscription rates: one year $79 (U.S. funds) in the U.S. and its possessions; Canada and Mexico $119 (U.S. funds); all other foreign delivery $199 (U.S. funds). Printed in the U.S.A. Periodical postage paid at Charlotte, NC and additional mailing offices. Postmaster send address changes to SGB, 2151 Hawkins Street, Suite 200, Charlotte, NC 28203; 704.987.3450.
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Features JANUARY 2013
26
THE 2013 Fall i Winter Sock Guide The latest trends and technologies influencing leading outdoor sock manufacturers
34
Minimalism Takes a Step Back
44
SGB REFERENCE The Tech Fabric and Fiber PRIMER
54
THE NEXT GENERATION OF OUTERWEAR What fashion-forward design, high-tech materials and increased functionality are bringing to outerwear next winter
68
How To Sell Outerwear Supply Chain Sales Strategy
70
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Departments 8
BRAND TO WATCH HOKA ONE ONE Aims For Over-Sized Growth
10
SGB I PROFILE TOPO ATHLETIC TONY POST Launches Footwear Startup
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RETAILER FOCUS Specialty Sports Venture Setting Tall Standards for Specialty Retail
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SGB QUESTION What’s Your Outlook For 2013?
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TRENDS TO WATCH The New Face of Online Customization
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CALENDAR
80
I AM...SGB TOPHER GAYLORD President, Mountain Hardwear and Montrail
SPORTSONESOURCE.COM
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B R A N D T O W AT C H
Aims For Over-Sized Growth While Vibram’s FiveFingers certainly led to a radical rethinking of running footwear design around a less-is-more approach, Hoka One One is slowly proving that natural running motion shoes can come in a much bigger package. By Thomas J. Ryan
Hoka One One is seen by many as the antithesis of minimalist running shoes. Loosely translated from the ancient Maori language to mean, “Time to fly,” Hoka One One’s unconventional design features a midsole with volume two and a half times greater than traditional running shoes. But while the look is certainly unique for a running shoe, more shocking to some has been the shoe’s success on the trail. Long distance runners and endurance athletes wearing Hoka One One shoes have recorded more than 30 podium finishes on five continents in the past 18 months. And they’ve also attracted a major investor. In late July, Deckers
8 JANUARY 2013
Outdoor, the parent of Ugg and Teva, acquired a minority stake in Hoka One One. Deckers Outdoor’s President, CEO and Chairman Angel Martinez, said at the time, “Hoka’s visionary design and undeniable performance have made it a coveted brand among some of the best runners in the world, and it will be our pleasure to help build the business
Hoka One One Stinson Evo Tarmac (Mens) combines the best features of sister shoes the Bondi B and Mafate. The Stinson Evo Tarmac features an improved outsole more suitable for use on road and concrete surfaces yet still performs on trail and off road surfaces. The fit and comfort of the upper has been improved in the forefoot. The midsole has been enhanced with a more contoured sidewall for slightly more width while still remaining snug.
through sourcing and development support, and bring more runners to the brand over time.” In an interview with SGB, Jay Taylor, who recently was appointed Hoka One One’s president, said the brand in the short to mid-term will focus on specialty run. But he said management long-term believes Hoka One One and over-sized shoe design has a much bigger opportunity not only to reach mainstream status in the run category but will also apply to other footwear categories, including comfort and walking as well as medical, rehab and other service areas. “The concept has benefits to all footwear in and out of running shoes,” said Taylor, who has overseen Hoka One One’s distribution in North America, Australia and New Zealand. “We get daily requests from the medical field, including surgeons, for a shoe they can wear in an operating room as well as to prescribe for post-op patients. As well as from people in the service industry and people that have worn the running shoe as it has helped them with mobility problems and are looking for a casual version.” Hoka One One was founded by Jean-Luc Diard and Nicolas Mermoud, both adventure racers personally looking to create a trail running shoe that would allow them to fly downhill even if they were heel striking. Driven by a trending popularity in outdoor recreation, namely trail running, the two noticed that athletes were becoming increasingly faster, and that variation in performance was most noticeable during descents. Downhill running is often synonymous with fatigue, impact and muscle strain. At the same time, the two saw the benefits of over-size design techniques in skis while working at Salomon Group. Diard had formerly been president and CEO of Salomon while Mermoud was his former marketing manager. Those benefits extended into golf clubs, tennis rackets and other sports categories. The whole “oversize” concept, according to Taylor, is to alter the user experience to make the activity or sport more enjoyable as it becomes easier. “For example, it’s easier to hit a golf ball with a head that is bigger in cc’s (cubic centimeters),” said Taylor in an interview with SGB. “Return of a tennis ball becomes more manageable with a sweat spot that is bigger in the face of the racquet. Skis have the most dramatic change as the added surface area creates lift in softer snow, reducing effort needed to turn the skis. With Hoka, the oversize sole puts the ‘Rocker’ in the forefoot to get the athlete from foot strike to toe off quickly. The
cushion in the shoe ensures that the foot doesn’t move into a pronation phase of the gait cycle to aggressively enhance reducing muscle fatigue. The original Hoka One One trail shoe launched in May 2010 and expanded into outdoor, hiking and road running in Spring 2011. This fall, Hoka One One launched the Stinson Evo Tarmac, a shoe with a more vertical sidewall and a road-specific outsole. The design features more rocker due to its overall geometry to enable the shoe to roll a little faster. The brand now does around $5 million in annual sales. In the U.S., Hoka One One has been embraced by ultra-runners who find they can run further with less effort and recover quicker. These include ultra-running stars Jason Schlarb, who set a new course record of 4:28:30 in the Jemez 50K wearing the Hoka One One in May. In the same month, Dave Mackey, the 2011 Ultra Runner of the Year, won the Miwok 100K, and Chris Prince took second in the shoes. Another fan is world-class endurance runner Karl Meltzer, who holds the record for most 100-mile trail race wins. Not surprisingly, Hoka One One’s popularity has been particularly strong in Boulder, CO, which Taylor describes as the “epicenter for distance trail running” and where Hoka One One’s team placed much of its initial effort. But the brand is now starting to gain more traction in the Midwest, Florida and the East coast and also finding fans among those running half or full triathlons or marathon distances. Taylor said Hoka One One is seeing more athletes starting to exclusively use Hoka as their shoe of choice to train and race in, especially as distances increase or training millage increases. At the same time, others are using Hoka One One as an alternative in their “toolbox” of available shoes, depending on their training regimen. “For example, they may use their Vibram product for technique and speed work on grass for 30 minutes a week,” said Taylor. “Run in a traditional training shoe for a workout or two and then a Hoka shoe for distance or an active recovery run. This is especially important for Ironman distance triathletes.” He credits Vibram’s success with FiveFingers with helping open the door for other approaches to shoe design in the “conservative running market.” By definition, Hoka also fits the bill as a minimalist shoe as it features a 4mm to 5mm heel-to-toe drop. Despite its width, the shoes are still 15 percent lighter than conventional running shoes to also play to the lightweight theme. Said Taylor, “We get there a slightly different way by adding some protection to reduce vibration that hits the muscles.” Much like Vibram’s FiveFingers, he sees others following Hoka One One with their own take on the over-sized category, further lending credence to the opportunity. He has noticed other run brands experimenting with more cushioning than they used to. To further support the brand, Hoka One One has expanded its field force, increased its marketing spend and are in conversations with other elite athletes to help promote the brand. Noted Taylor, “The special part of Hoka has been that it has been sought out for the solutions it provides, so we have quite a few incoming calls.” The brand also has innovative projects in the works for 2013 and 2014 that it promises will continue to push conventional boundaries visually as well as technologically. “We will concentrate on making fast shoes that are also lightweight,” said Taylor. “We have new materials available that weren’t six to eight months ago that will help the brand evolve from a technology and performance standpoint.” ■
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SGB I PROFILE
Former Vibram USA CEO Launches Footwear Startup By Thomas J. Ryan
Tony Post, former Vibram USA Founder & CEO who brought the FiveFingers phenomenon to the world, announcing on December 12 that his new footwear startup again aimed at the lightweight footwear space. As part of the announcement, the Newton, MA-based ToPo Athletic said it secured $5 million in Series A funding from Norwest Venture Partners (NVP), a multi-stage investment firm based in Silicon Valley. The athletic footwear line will be unveiled at January’s Outdoor Retailer Show in
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Salt Lake City and quickly reach retail by May 2013. Like Vibram’s FiveFingers, the line will focus on the lightweight footwear opportunity. The products are designed to “innately amplify, not modify, the body's natural biomechanics” to help athletes optimize their training to tackle more aggressive goals. Full
details around features and construction are being reserved for the Outdoor Retailer unveiling. Design and utility patents have been filed for all of its products. “We’re focused on the athletic footwear market,” Post told SGB. “The product is incredibly lightweight. Initially to start we’re focused on the
running and fitness markets such as functional fitness training like CrossFit. We think the concept has more breadth to it but we decided to keep the focus on running and strength training because those are two things that almost every athlete has to do. It’s a very tight line, tight story.” Acknowledging the challenges of selling the glove-like FiveFingers to a broader audience, Post also promised ToPo would be “commercially very viable” by delivering not only on the functional benefits but offer aesthetic appeal. Said Post, “Design is an important value to many people. You can go on about all the attributes, but people often wind up choosing a shoe based on its looks.” During his tenure, Vibram USA grew from $3 million in annual revenue to $170 million, he said. Much of it came following the launch of FiveFingers in 2006 that became the extreme beacon for the lightweight running movement. Post, who prior to Vibram spent 15 years at Rockport, holding a variety of positions including VP of marketing, resigned as CEO of Vibram USA in the spring after feeling the urge to try something new. “I had a great run at Vibram,” said Post. “I loved the people, the company – everything about it. But I had been there 11 years and I felt it was the right time to try to do something new and I knew I wanted to try to start my own company.” At the beginning of July, Post spent a month on Cape Cod, taking long bike rides and runs as he began exploring “what I wanted to do and the type of company I wanted to create and the types of products I wanted to make and ultimately what were the parts of the market that interested me. That’s when I decided to go ahead and launch a company that would be focused on the athletic footwear space.” He also had been revisiting an idea
he had around leveraging the natural biomechanics in your body to maximize your workout versus changing or correcting the way you run or train. Said Post, "We approach product design with humble innovation - we're not arrogant enough to think that our products will change an athlete's performance. Only his or her drive to succeed can do that. Our role is to help them get there." By August, a prototype had been developed and he began seeking out financial and other partners to bring the idea to life. Although a few other suitors were involved in the Series A funding, Post had been speaking to Jon Kossow, general partner at Norwest Venture Partners, off and on for the last three to four years and ultimately felt comfortable working with their team.
Tony Post, Founder & CEO ToPo Athletic
“I’ve been in the shoe business for almost 30 years and have extensive experience in creating and developing footwear products - a lot of which were innovative and interesting and hopefully added more value to people’s lives,” said Post. “That’s what I wanted to do here and Norwest immediately saw that and felt it was a good fit.” "ToPo Athletic addresses a key opportunity in the athletic gear industry and is primed for success with Tony Post at the helm," said Kossow in a statement. "It's been impressive watching Tony blaze every brand trail he treks, from Rockport to Vibram; so when he came to us with his concept, our entire firm jumped at the chance to support ToPo Athletic." The company incorporated in August, and now has a fulltime staff of nearly 10 employees including Georgia Shaw, the former marketing manager at Vibram USA who is now ToPo’s marketing director.
Although FiveFingers’ sales have slowed in the last year and the market is seeing somewhat of a shift to more supportive yet lightweight models, Post remains bullish on the opportunity around minimal footwear. “I always look for it from the consumer perspective,” said Post. “And the athlete or even a regular consumer needs a few different types of products in their closet. I think that it’s not about having one shoe they can do everything in. If I make the metaphorical comparison, you need a few different arrows in the quiver. And so there’s always a place for minimalist footwear. I still wear and enjoy my Vibram FiveFingers product but I think you need more than just one product.” He also said consumers don’t think of products as much in terms of categories but in their overall functionality and appeal. “When we created Vibram Fivefingers, we were creating a product that was unique and interesting and served a purpose in that consumer’s life. I think a lot of us in the industry tend to put labels on things so we can group them together,” said Post. “But if you can create interesting products that add value to the experience where a consumer can see it, feel it and recognize it, than those products will sell regardless of whatever category or name you put on them.” For Post, ToPo also marks his first foray as a CEO of a startup without a parent company, another exciting part of the venture. “There’s a lot of risk to this,” noted Post. “You risk relationships with people, you risk your reputation, you put your financial resources at risk but at the same time it’s emotionally rewarding. People probably focus on the financial part but it’s really about the emotional reward. I think for all of us who are close to this business, you have a chance to work with people who share your passion and you’re all shaping your own destiny.” ■
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R E TA I L E R F O C U S
Specialty Sports Venture has about 40 individual flagship shops, including Breeze, Breckenridge Sports and Aspen Sports (pictured here), and other market-specific specialty retail brands. It also boasts the largest holding of branded shops, including The North Face, Patagonia, Marmot, SmartWool, Burton and others.
Specialty Sports Venture Setting Tall Standards for Specialty Retail By Aaron H. Bible
As most in the outdoor retail world are surely aware by now, Specialty Sports Venture is the retail and rental division of Vail Resorts, based out of Broomfield, CO. Vail Resorts acquired Specialty Sports Venture, LLC in April 2010 as a joint venture and retained its chief operating officer Kat Jobanputra, who is now also an executive VP for Vail Resorts. Jobanputra has been with Specialty Sport Venture for 18 years, with more than 28 years in the sporting goods industry, and under his leadership it operates more than 170 stores, running the gamut from “city shops, price-point shops, to the Ritz Carlton and high-end resort shops,” across Colorado and in California. The chain has about 40 individual flagship shops, including Breeze, Breckenridge Sports, Aspen Sports, and other market-specific specialty retail brands. It also boasts the largest holding of branded shops, including The North Face, Patagonia, Marmot, SmartWool, Burton and others. The company has floors ranging in size from 1,000 to 6,000 square feet.
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Yet Specialty Sport Venture manages all of these holdings while still maintaining a local, specialty experience at each of the company’s stores. In other words, all 170 retail outlets are decentralized and regionalized, while at the same time taking advantage of the synergies and leveraging the relationships with suppliers that comes from large purchase orders. Local store operators get to take advantage of top-of-the-line POS systems, a robust IT infrastructure and hardware, distribution channels, logistics and buying power, while still being able to get the right product for their market. With localized buying teams, “operating teams get exactly what they want,” said Jobanputra.
It’s a simple, effective and customizable model, and one Vail Resorts will continue to push as the core of the business. “We have the advantage of being able to centralize what the customer doesn’t touch, while locally we are decentralized, in areas such as customer service, training, returns, allowing us to provide the right level of customer service,” explained Jobanputra. “The focus is on great service, product selection, and delivering that experience of a great shopping environment, with the best price in that market.”
“The focus is on great service, product selection, and delivering that experience of a great shopping environment, with the best price in that market." - Kat Jobanputra, Executive VP for Vail Resorts
The model is designed to combine efficient systems with best-in-class customer experiences, and it seems to be working. Specialty Sports Venture opened at least six new branded stores in Colorado by the end of 2012. “It is working. We’ve got a very successful track record,” Jobanputra said. “We are the largest specialty retailer in our marketplace [snowsports]. We’re also the fastest growing in the marketplace.” Specialty Sports Venture recently opened a new branded The North Face store in Snowmass, CO, bringing the total of TNF stores to a dozen. The Westin in Snowmass also got a new retail and ski valet shop. The first branded SmartWool store opened in Beaver Creek, CO. And in Vail, the group is opening Icebreaker and Oakley branded stores. Specialty Sports Venture is applying the same retail model it has used on the Front Range of Colorado extending West into ski country to its resorts and shops in California, with the Bay Area-to-Tahoe recreation flow. “Vail Resorts has invested heavily in the retail business, and the plan is to continue to grow,” Jobanputra said. Breeze Ski Rentals is opening in Tahoe City this month.
Jobanputra firmly believes there is still growth out there, tied not only to the ski industry but to an expanding market driven by quality of life. “People want to spend more time outside with their families,” he said. “And we’ve seen more growth in the kids’ side of our business. We’re still very bullish on the business.” Maintaining local connections and relationships, with great shopping experiences, while still taking advantage of big buying power, is how that business will grow. According to Jobanputra, the long-term vision is a one-on-one experience with guests at the retail outlets. “We want to be the best local shop in the market,” he said, in each of the company’s local markets. That said, if the customer cannot be satisfied in one of the local specialty stores, it will send customers to the Internet. Specialty Sports Venture is continuing to grow and allocate resources to its online business. The website O2GearShop.com was acquired by Vail Resorts in July 2011. And while it makes up a smaller part of the business, it is part of the overall growth strategy. The online store has its own buyers and operations team, and they plan to continue to chip away at the larger players in the online snowsports space. Other innovative programs continue to give Specialty Sports Venture the lead. Colorado Ski & Golf locations (as well as Boulder Ski Deals and Colorado Ski & Sports) have been offering a Junior Trade in Program for 30 years, which not only saves parents money, but creates multi-generation return customers. Guaranteed boot fits are another example of personalized customer service. Specialty Sports Venture’s Rentskis.com allows customers to pre-rent skis online and even have them delivered to a hotel or condo at the ski area…and also allows them to exchange or tech those boards at any of its locations while on their trip. And Deals on Wheels at the company’s Bicycle Village retailers launches the spring cycling season each year. This and other mega-sales such as Ski Rex each fall are anchors for the buying seasons, further cementing Specialty Sports Venture’s prowess in this growing retail environment. ■
SPORTSONESOURCE.COM
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SGB QUESTION
What’s Your Outlook For 2013? TJ Gray, Owner, Rocket Fish Industrial Design
Jay Piccola, President & GM, Puma North America
We have put more emphasis on the women's side of our business with exciting introductions to our line. We are looking forward to seeing how they play out in the marketplace. We also have room for growth in the running space and with our joint ventures. We are optimistic about new assets we will be bringing on for the brand.
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The year is looking up for most of the sporting goods industry. The snow is falling across the country and will give a lift winter outdoor market was missing last year. Footwear companies are adding new models to their existing categories and are expanding into more categories and products. Bags and accessories will lead the charge with more companies finding production in the U.S. again. Raising tariffs and shipping charges are pushing companies to look to the U.S. for production of soft goods. Small to medium brands seem to be gaining more confidence than in past years as they are expanding their lines and adding new product categories. We are seeing more work recently in categories that are traditionally the money categories like golf, skiing and sailing, showing that consumers are willing to spend on their activity, increasing demand for the gear. Running is still the leader with design work for Rocket Fish. More companies are breaking into the minimal category and the negative heel performance runners and trying to find new categories. The new tariff increases for this year will affect all of these categories. It raises concerns in this shaky economy because product prices will see some increases this season. The good news is this increase is giving companies the push to find better options domestically. The final trend I see for 2013 is customer service. This will be the year of the customer. Customers that are paying a premium price for their products want that premium customer service.
Catherine Cook, VP Marketing, Kamik
The outlook for Kamik Footwear in 2013 is very promising. As a company that primarily manufactures in North America and builds boots for its customers on demand, Kamik doesn't have huge swaths of 2012 inventory remaining – allowing us to focus on new and innovative boots. This year, Kamik is introducing an exclusive new technology that will change the way the company practices with the introduction of our exclusive BioVinyl technology, a replacement for Poly-Vinyl Chloride (PVC). This is a major breakthrough in boot manufacturing. BioVinyl replaces oil-based petrochemicals normally used to create Poly-Vinyl with natural crop-based materials, while simultaneously replacing chloride with fresh seawater. This combination allows Kamik to dramatically reduce the amount of oil we use and create boots that are made of 70 percent natural/renewable resources. Through this technology, Kamik has reduced our overall consumption and saved more than 60,000 gallons of gasoline per year. For 2013, we're very optimistic about Kamik's leadership position relative to industry sustainability.
Russ Hopcus, VP Global Sales & Market Development, Keen
While there is a degree of caution in the market, we are confident that relevant Brands, Products and Stories will still have a positive impact. Geographically, we see North America and Asia Pacific offsetting the economic challenges in Europe and we believe that the momentum in Latin America will continue. While the U.S. economy is certainly not buoyant, it has rebounded somewhat. Having said that, retailer caution still prevails and many are playing it much safer. This puts more emphasis on our ability to carry the appropriate inventory in-season while still minimizing the risk. From a product standpoint, lightweight and athletic will continue to drive the energy in the footwear category - whether it be in Trail, Water or Casual. This athletic movement has created a new competitive platform for our outdoor retailers as they are now playing against a larger group of retailers outside of their normal list of channel competitors. No doubt, this also creates a tremendous opportunity to use the retail calendar more effectively and to be less dependent on the traditional seasonal outdoor selling cycle. Consumers vote based on what value the brands offer them.
GlenN Lyon, Chairman & CEO, The Finish Line
Since just after 2012 back-to-school, we have seen a shift within athletic footwear trends characterized by a slowdown in running and a pickup in basketball. Our heritage has been running and it continues to be the most important category we have. We will continue to be the leader in the mall and focus on our vision to meet the needs of our digital native and savvy customers. We remain steadfast in our belief that technology will continue to drive broad changes in the retail landscape and we will continue to develop a premier omni-channel business. Also, we are progressing on plan with our innovative Macy’s partnership. With the launch in April, we will be managing the athletic footwear inventory at all Macy stores followed closely by the digital launch.
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Ed Ring, COO, DirecSource
I don't expect the sporting goods industry to experience much growth in the coming year. If the real estate market continues to show improvement, more money may free up in the second half of the year, which will help the economy. Even with the new "fiscal cliff" deal in place, people are still concerned about tax increases and rising expenses that will impact how they spend their money. I expect the retail environment will continue to be competitive and think we may see the national retail landscape slim down with one of the major big box retailers giving way to the competition. Having said that, we at DirecSource are optimistic and feel we will see double-digit increases this year with much of our growth coming from brand extensions, expansion of private label products at mid-level retailers and new emerging growth companies seeking greater operational efficiencies and access to new markets. We’re seeing many of our clients moving into new categories to remain competitive. These include well-known brands that are taking unique knowledge and expertise (perhaps the use of advanced materials) and finding new applications in sports or other growth categories where they haven't competed in the past. We're also seeing more seasonal brands seeking ways to extend their selling season with the introduction of new products.
Adam Gifford, Co-Owner, Sedona Running Company Brian Anderson, President & CEO, Madd Gear
The action sports industry (hardgoods) is relatively flat, but is shifting somewhat; specifically, consumer participation in skate boarding is declining and freestyle scooter riding is growing very strongly. As the top of global brand of freestyle scooters, Madd Gear will continue to benefit from this shift in consumer behavior. We will also benefit by expanding into other product categories, most notably BMX bikes. The specialty market for action sports hardgoods is healthy and strong - demand should be solid in Q1 and beyond. We believe some mass retailers are a bit over-inventoried coming out of a weakerthan-expected holiday. Because of this dynamic, we believe Q1 will be soft in mass, but business will resume to healthy levels in the spring as retailers work through their inventory and warmer weather drives sales and participation. Overall, we are expecting another year of very strong growth, starting with modest growth and then accelerating throughout the year.
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I think sustainable trends in footwear will finally take hold as the last of the "I Read 'Born to Run'" crowd and their crumbling tibias move into zero-to-low drop, cushioned footwear. We have two major projects that we will focus on in 2013. The first is an acquisition of an outdoor specialty store down the street from our current location. The second is the creation of a summer 5k series.
Fritz Taylor, VP & GM Running, Mizuno
We continue to be optimistic about the growth potential of running in 2013. We believe that the bigger trends that have made running such a broadly appealing activity will continue to influence the choices people make. With that said, we will continue to watch our distribution as retail market expansion is on a big growth curve and we want to partner with those who are in this for the long term.
David Fee, VP Sales & Marketing, Benchmade
Chris Goddard, President, CGPR, LLC.
It will be the good the bad and the ugly. Even with the fiscal cliff discussions resolved, American consumers will be careful in their spending. They will look for brands that are authentic, have heritage and ‘Made in the USA’ will continue to be strong. They will spend on brands and products that provide value and meet their needs. Customization will be strong because, for consumers, "I want it my way" will be important from a PR perspective. PR practitioners will have more tools for their crafts and “mobile” will be king, but in the end, it is still about telling the right message, to the right audience at the right time.
We continue to see consumers look toward online solutions to research and shop. Retail sales are still the majority of our sales, but with the complexity that can come with buying a car rack, more consumers use web-based tools, like our “Fit My Car” configurator, to determine the right solution for their activity and vehicle. We’re pushing our online research tools into retail and mobile devices to help retail employees help customers. Also, we’re seeing a movement toward premium prices. With success of our new Whispbar brand, we learned that consumers will pay a premium for attractive, functional products that complement their vehicles. Two activities that drive the cargo management category are Cycling and Camping. Participation in both continues to grow, and the category is growing with them. Recent growth in SUP has driven sales of boat carriers, after some years of flat sales. We’re continuing to invest in our core cargo management categories, because we see increasing demand for them. The threat of another recession is of course a concern. But like the outdoor industry, cargo management is relatively recessionresistant. In 2008 to 2010, when the overall economy was in a downturn, the industry and our category performed well. Families shifted from air travel to driving to a “staycation” destination. This trend seems to be staying. Looking forward, the challenge for cargo management is to maintain a balance between offering a solution for every vehicle and outdoor activity, while keeping the category easy to buy (for the dealer), display, sell and install. We understand that some dealers are intimidated by the inventory investment and complexity of the category, and we will continue to strive to reduce both.
Duncan Finigan, Director of Marketing, OOFOS
We foresee a very healthy year ahead. The emerging category "recovery" is a new product area for consumers. For the industry, it is all incremental sales, as it is a complimentary footwear category to the products that already exist. This is why OOFOS has introduced OOfoam technology at "affordable innovation" pricepoints. The price/value equation makes it an easy purchase as an incremental footwear product for consumers. Yet, we see retailers in a "wait and see" mode. We need them to get behind the category and work to build awareness and educate consumers; otherwise, it will force us to drive the messaging on-line. Consumers have shown that they will put the effort into finding new products that are going to make a difference and make them feel better. We know when we get our message out to the marketplace about the importance of recovery products we will help pioneer this new business into a very large volume/high profit category of footwear.
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Ed Schmults, CEO, Wild Things, LLC. I think 2013 will be a solid year for the outdoor industry. Snow and cold weather should drive good sell-through this winter and clear up the inventory from last year. There continues to be a great deal of similarity in the outdoor apparel market which makes innovation and brand association the key differentials. 2013 will be a good year for brands that offer both. I believe that ‘Made in the USA’ is increasingly relevant. There is a growing body of evidence that consumers are looking for ‘Made in the USA’ for quality, environmental, patriotic and economic reasons. Consumer spending will grow but consumers are more cautious. The promotional race to the bottom will continue as discounts proliferate online and on the retail floor. Our mass customization initiative addresses many of the opportunities and concerns in the industry – we make the products in the USA, we don't discount, the consumer controls the look, feel and performance of the product and they get a unique product from an authentic brand. Mass customized products were 30 percent of our e-commerce sales from launch in early November and we expect that to rise. Customization will continue to be a strong selling point in 2013.
Paul Carrozza, CEO, RunTex
The running market is strong. It is morphing into the lifestyle business of being engaged in endurance sports and fusing with the other complementary ways of staying fit. It is now about a total athlete. Higher intensity training and cross training has arrived. This changes the footwear needs. At RunTex we are working on all three elements of our business: training, gear and events. We are also engaged with the insurance industry to bring training through them to the work place and having it affect their insurance premiums and benefits - a big break through. The process of moving people from still to active without injury with purpose is our future - as was our past - just on a higher level and greater connectivity. It's less about shopping and retail and more about gear and outfitting as part of a bigger picture, integrated gear process.
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Jerry Williams, President, Schuylkill Valley Sports
Our general outlook is positive for 2013. The mood of the consumer is more upbeat than this time last year. Our license business was abysmal in 2012 based on the performance of our local teams and the NHL strike. Our Internet business continues to grow and our team business is solid. Our retail business should rebound as mall/shopping centers start to level off with store losses. Vendors selling direct to consumers continues to grow at scary rates via Internet and outlets.
Adam Blumenfeld, Chairman & CEO, BSN Sports
The outlook for the coming year is uncertain. I expect significant consolidation to continue in the team sportinggoods space. I think federal, local and state spending will be dictated entirely by the government's ability or inability to get out of its own way and pass balanced legislation. On the margins, I would expect continued market share gains by industry leaders and consolidation opportunities at all levels. I would be surprised to see any significant spending tailwinds that might aid everyone in the food chain. I think a tide that lifts all boats is not on the horizon‌Feels like those who place a premium on longlasting employee and customer relationships, supply chain management expertise, and leverage technology that is genuinely helpful to the company and client instead of just fun to watch, will continue to lead the way. I think anyone not concerned about the growth of Amazon.com and online shopping in general is failing to see the big picture. This transition will re-balance power in our industry forever. Those in a position to vend to these partners or even compete with them to a small degree stand to benefit. If you are not in that camp, I think you end up giving market share to them. I think major brands in our industry have an opportunity to protect distribution channels by limiting availability to online partners who bastardize pricing. The position these brands take will be interesting to watch and indicative of how quickly transition occurs from local sales to Internet-based sales. My guess is that pay-to-play, lacrosse, women sports and fundraising continue to be the fastest-growing segments of our industry. I think specialized sports and club sports also continue to lead the way. The ability for parents and communities to fund these programs will far outweigh city and school budget dollars in the next 12 to 36 months. Niche product specialists (manufacturers) and broadbased sellers with a very good handle on their bottom line and how to manage and grow their platform will win. I think the middle continues to get squeezed from all sides.
Ed van Wezel, CEO, Hi-Tec Sports The outdoor industry continues to evolve as the boundaries between sports, action sports and outdoor industries merge. This creates demand for multifunctional and versatile products where design, value and functionality are key. With the disposable income of consumers, specifically in the U.S. and Europe remaining under pressure, products delivering value and versatility will see success in 2013. With no brand or specific trend on a steep growth curve at the moment and with retailers and consumers searching for the next big success story, this presents itself with opportunities for the industry. We are seeing phenomenal growth in Latin America, Africa and Asia Pacific and I see this continuing into next year, a sure reason to be optimistic. With our current focus and heavy investment in manufacturing, delivering added value and versatility to the consumer, the industry trend matches our consistent strategy of the past few years.
Tom Cove, President & CEO, Sports & Fitness Industry Association (SFIA)
We see a promising outlook, industry fundamentals are good, particularly in U.S. Lean inventories, strong brands, healthy retail, raw materials and other production input price increases have moderated. New products in sports and fitness markets continue to be well received. Consumers are reacting well to new technology, customization, accessibility and fashion. Footwear is driving traffic. Awareness of and commitment to healthy, active lifestyles is reinforced across society. International growth seems likely to lag between Europe and China markets. Dangers: Stalemate in Washington depresses confidence; if debt ceiling and/or fiscal cliff action spooks the markets, discretionary spending will be arrested; consumer confidence continues to be the uncontrollable factor that can drag the industry down. Sadly, government action or inaction seems likely to be a key variable in moving markets, interest rates and ultimately consumer confidence. Mergers and Acquisitions? Yes, we think there will be more in our space.
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Kevin Davis, President & CEO, Bauer Performance Sports
We are optimistic about the future of the sporting goods industry, especially as it relates to the high performance sports within our portfolio. Ice hockey, roller hockey and lacrosse are seeing continued increases in participation in the U.S. and other key regions, and we continue to take advantage of these growth trends. Global hockey growth is steady with key demographics and areas experiencing significant increases, such as major markets in eastern Europe and Russia and within the U.S. at the adult and key youth age groups. We have fully integrated our lacrosse platform with the Maverik and Cascade brands, which strengthens our position in North America’s fastest-growing team sport. To help boost global participation numbers, we recently launched a 10-year campaign to add one million new players to the game of hockey by 2022. Bauer Hockey’s “Grow the Game” initiative includes key partnerships with Hockey Canada, USA Hockey, other national governing bodies and Mark Messier to better understand the barriers to entry, determine the necessary steps to break down these obstacles and develop strategies for growth. We feel it is our responsibility to invest the resources necessary to bring our game to new levels and introduce the great sport of hockey to more families. Another growth sector for Bauer Performance Sports is apparel that supports our key equipment brands. The apparel opportunity in ice hockey alone is estimated to be $375 million annually. We are excited about our recent acquisition of Inaria International. This strategic acquisition provides us with full team apparel capabilities. Customization and personalization will continue to be trends for all consumers. In the future, it will be essential to continue offering multiple families of product that provide true differences in overall fit and feel to improve a player’s performance. In lacrosse and hockey, we see customization of helmets as an ongoing trend.
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Matt Carlson, President & CEO, National Sporting Goods Association (NSGA)
Leading into 2013, we’ve seen an economy that could be gaining momentum. Let's hope the momentum in consumer confidence is not disrupted by political infighting. Solving the un-level playing field enjoyed by internet-only retailers is important in 2013. NSGA has joined with a coalition of trade associations to push adoption of the Marketplace Fairness Act, which would require Internet retailers to collect sales tax on purchases made on their sites. We’re optimistic something positive will come out of these efforts in 2013. We are cautiously optimistic that the trajectory of the sporting goods industry is up.
Greg Thomsen, Managing Director, Adidas Outdoor USA/Agron, Inc.
I believe that 2013 will be a stronger year overall for the outdoor specialty market than last year. Starting off with snow in the mountains and cold weather in most areas is a good beginning. I’m excited to see specialty outdoor retailers reconnecting with their core customers and addressing the next generation of younger outdoor enthusiasts. This is being done through new product selection combined with outreach programs to a growing number of young, athletic gym climbers. The growth of sport climbing and indoor gyms is fueling a new wave of climbers and increased interest in a broad range of active outdoor pursuits, which is bringing more awareness to the benefits of an athletic outdoor lifestyle. Exciting times for the outdoor industry, but also a time of transition, time to focus on the future and the needs of a younger, faster, lighter and stronger generation.
Dani Reiss, President & CEO, Canada Goose
I’m encouraged that we’re seeing demand from people who have a deep respect for highly functional, genuine products. Yes, people are interested in brands, but real brands. They’re not interested in buying a label that doesn’t have any meaning or heritage behind it, and they’re not willing to compromise on quality. The good news is that consumers are willing to pay more for these authentic products. For the manufacturers and retailers who pay attention to this, I think they’ll be highly rewarded in 2013.
Bill Taylor, VP Sales & Marketing, Birki LP
The industry outlook remains cautious. Retail numbers were disappointing for most. Our brands have a lot of opportunity because of authenticity. Consumers will continue to respond to brands they know and trust. At the end of the day it's about compelling product, unique components, and performance. The biggest concern is the retail community remaining overly cautious, and we are worried about how they can become more profitable. It's going to take some unique stories and events to turn around the lowering of price points from UGG to Toms.
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Frank Hugelmeyer, President & CEO, Outdoor Industry Association (OIA)
Entering 2013 the outlook for the outdoor industry is ambiguous. Rapidly evolving technology and consumer behavior are driving widespread changes at specialty retail with the potential to create a massive shift in the outdoor marketplace. Weather is a concern. An unseasonably warm summer followed by another late start to winter created inventory backlogs that spurred early discounting. This contributes to a challenged retail environment, and retailers report that they will change next winter’s inventory mix. But there are greater issues at play: Consumers are increasingly voting with their wallets for convenience, assortment and price. Consequentially, small specialty retailers and some brands are gravitating toward transactional retail partners, such as Amazon and eBay. As business flows away from core retailers and into the hands of agnostic retailers, we dangerously bolster the legers of companies with no vested interest in the industry’s success. Add to this more outdoor companies are selling in multiple channels, including direct-to-consumer. The complexity of the competitive landscape has many specialty retailers struggling to differentiate themselves. Retail curators focused on a particular experience or special style is a trend to watch. Outdoor activities are readily embraced by youthful consumers, and we have tremendous growth opportunities in the U.S. and abroad. However, it is important that we work together to enhance our culture, bolster the health of specialty retailers, prevent commoditization of our products, and support the companies and groups that give back to our industry.
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John Rogers, President, Maine Running Company
2013 will present challenges. The main challenge remains the promotional Internet cart pricing activity and the level playing field we need to create with our vendor partners to solve the customer retention problem this creates for brick & mortar specialty. Forty-five percent of our channel's customer base purchase their second running shoes elsewhere. Our focus on our community social currencies, which includes social media, training groups, community cause support and in-store events, will continue to drive customer acquisition, but continuing to build programs and information to retain those customers will be a real focus in 2013. In conjunction with this is ensuring we evolve our in-store and virtual experience to attract and retain young consumers who are raised on social media, the Internet and convenience. We can't be static and do business as usual.
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T R E N D S T O W AT C H
The New Face of Online Customization By Aaron H. Bible
W
hile online customized ordering through the e-commerce interfaces of manufacturers is not new, the game is changing. November marked the launch of Newport, RI’s Wild Things custom online apparel ordering website wildthingsgear.com, and custom now comprises 30 percent of total online orders. And in December, Northwest Technical Outerwear (NWT3K) launched its own version of online-custom freestyle ski jackets. The concept is revolutionary in terms of customer satisfaction, finished goods on hand, risk, price-structuring, manufacturing and environmental responsibility. The Wild Things program “redefines the very nature of the technical garment,” according to CEO Ed Schmults. “I’m thrilled to be able to offer this. It’s a revolutionary and disruptive technology, and it’s fun to do.” According to NWT3K founder Nick Marvik, “Most companies release only a few jacket options per season, so it’s inevitable that you’ll see some look-alikes on the mountain. Our brand means that you’re able to represent yourself through a jacket design that is timeless. With NWT3K, your gear will never be considered ‘last season’s
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jacket’.” The entire concept disrupts what Schmults refers to as “the race to the bottom” as retailers discount until “last season’s jackets” are all gone. The trend is not so much about purposefully bypassing a rep or a retailer, but about utilizing technology to give customers what they want. Now manufacturers are making the leap from color panel choices to full-on customized outerwear, in what many predict is part of the future of shopping, whether at home or in-store. Schmults has come to believe, through market research and 31 years of outdoor technical and tactical apparel and gear experience, that today’s customers are all about personalization. “We know what we want,” he said. “And technology has advanced to allow us to get it.” From an environmental perspective, garments are locally built in the U.S., shipped direct to consumer, and represent only what the customer wants, leaving no excess inventory for retailers or suppliers to deal with and discount, which in turn avoids the race to clear excess inventory at belowcost pricing. And, the garments built by customers on wildthingsgear.com are still returnable. To do this requires a non-traditional manufacturing
model with higher value-added production. By effectively utilizing a stateside labor force, sub-assemblies are continually being built and are then constructed into finished garments as custom orders come in. Schmults believes this works particularly well with technical garments because it allows customers to create functionality that’s important to them, whether that means competitive ice climbing, skiing, or hiking with the dog. He knows this isn’t high fashion, where it’s more about an artist/designer telling a story and injecting his or her sense of style and expertise in cut and materials. “So much [in a technical garment] is how you use it,” he said. “This allows people to dial in that functionality.” Schmults also points out that the model is scalable. The technology and manufacturing are both easily scalable, and offer a low-cost way to enter Asian and European markets with limited overhead. “Our outerwear offering is distinctive in that it provides personalization for individual customers at a mass production price,” said Schmults. Data has shown, Schmults said, that customers at Nike iD (Nike’s footwear customization program that drives a third of their online business) are willing to spend up to 50 percent more over a base price to get what they want. The apparel industry is very interested to see what consumers are willing to spend to get a customdesigned jacket. And with the instant data feedback available through ecommerce, Schmults and others will be able to adjust their pricing and options on the fly to meet customer demand. In order to tap into the walk-in retail consumer, Wild Things is partnering with outdoor specialty retail giant Moosejaw. With size runs and floor staff armed with iPads in five of ten stores initially, and a presence on the Moosejaw e-commerce site,
Wild Things will be taking advantage of an established customer base and the sales and marketing efforts of the brick and mortar retailer. Initial offerings on WildThingsGear.com will include an Insulight Jacket and WindPro Hoody, and Mountain Guide Jacket, hardshell Alpinist jacket, pants and customizable packs coming later this winter. Because of the company’s long-standing relationship with suppliers, it is able to offer best-in-class materials including Polartec, Schoeller, Toray, PrimaLoft and more. Sizing is based on a “typical outdoor industry fit,” with plans to introduce sleeve length and inseam length options. Customization options for consumers include not only material choices, but also a choice of a hood (+$40), left or right pocket (or no pocket), liner material/thickness choices, cuff and side panel color, logo color, zipper color and stitch color on women’s garments. Customers can even add personalization on the chest with up to 15 characters in a variety of fonts and thread color (personalized garments cannot be returned). Furthermore, the website offers advanced functionality such as a “sketch pad” where at-home designers can keep various designs on-screen before making a choice; and can even “share” their designs onto social media networks, crowd-sourcing opinions from friends before making a purchase - and driving socially generated traffic back to the Wild Things website. Another forerunner in the online customization phenomenon is Beyond Clothing, based in Eugene, OR. Dialing in the business for the last 16 years, founder Scott Jones was named Small Business Administration (SBA) Young Entrepreneur of the Year in 2003. "His work ethic has built a unique, customdesigned fleece clothing company that’s creating jobs right here at home. He’s gone from only having a dollar a day for food to employing 13 people. His commitment to a vision of what can be, and striving for excellence are the warp and woof of the American Dream," said SBA’s Thomas M. Sullivan. Beyond is currently at market with a full line of customizable base layers, softshells, waterproof shells, insulating pieces and accessories, all made in Seattle. Seattle-based NWT3K will also attempt to take a bite out of the market with its custom-designed online ordering platform and the introduction of a waterproof shell in five sizes. Customers - whom he garnered personally by designing, cutting and sewing custom apparel in his basement as a business student at Western Washington University - can now log onto nwt3k.com and build their own freestyle ski jacket with pocket, zipper, color and feature choices. His oneoff jackets got enough attention as he worked his way through college that he decided to make a go of it in the highly competitive ski industry. “I want to make sure everything’s going right before I bring other products to market,” said Marvik on the company’s focused jacket launch. The 22 year old went from sewing in his basement to hiring one seamstress to working with a full Seattle-based manufacturing facility with internationally sourced materials in just a year and a half. “I wanted to get product quality to where it would be completely acceptable in the snow sports industry before going to market,” Marvik said. “We’re launching an entirely new, very advanced, interactive website.” He developed the site in conjunction with a designer and software developer and the experience he gained working for lean startups in the Seattle area. Only time will tell whether there is room in the custom-online apparel space for all players big and small - and how soon some of the larger players in the apparel industry jump on the custom bandwagon. ■
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THE 2013 Fall i Winter Sock Guide The latest trends and technologies influencing leading outdoor sock manufacturers By Fernando J. Delgado
O
utdoor enthusiasts and athletes will have new high-performing styles to choose from for the upcoming fall and winter season, several of which will be introduced at the Outdoor Retailer Winter Market 2013 in Salt Lake City. Retailers can expect the continued demand for wool and compression technology to influence what consumers seek out in the marketplace. Socks have become specialized and technologically advanced and in some cases, such as the increasingly popular lifestyle-performance crossovers, socks are more versatile as well. Whether for use in general outdoors, running, performance, skiing, hiking or walking, consumers have a multitude of options available to them. According to Bruce Barrows, VP of sales & marketing for Lorpen North America, determining the right selection to display in-store is important for retailers to connect the customer with the right sock. “When I’m visiting dealers, a lot of them want to get engaged with what they should be selling, because there are so many options out there,” said Barrows. “I think retailers are trying to better refine their sock wall to make it easier VP of Sales & Marketing for Lorpen North America, Bruce Barrows for the customer and the sales associates to understand what they’re selling.” With such a variety of categories and no shortage of quality manufacturers, dealers and retailers must be selective when stocking their inventory. “Rather than throw a bunch of socks on the wall from a bunch of different manufacturers, I think we’re beginning to see where retailers are trying to avoid duplication in yarns, and to make it easier for a customer to make a purchase decision,” explained Barrows. “The trend continues for people moving into the merino wool category,” said Peter Duke, co-CEO at Point6. “I also think there's a need on the consumer side looking for the next level of merino, which is starting to combine itself with
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Photo courtesy of Sigvaris
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some technology. That technology is how you enhance the wool product. So we’re bringing to market a combination of wool and Celliant.” According to Duke, Point6’s Celliant is a combined use of over 80 minerals that, when worn against the skin, help open the wearer’s capillaries for Peter Duke, Point6 founder & CEO improved blood circulation. “That - coupled with merino wool, which keeps your feet warm in winter and cool in summer, and its ability to maintain moisture and eliminate body odor - I think is hopefully a new trend, and it’s something we’re working on,” he said. Featured new items from Point6 for Fall/Winter 2013 that will include the technology include the Pulse Celliant Compression OTC, MSRP $40, which improves blood flow and reduces soreness, swelling and fatigue; and the Pulse Celliant Extra Light Crew, MSRP $20, which regulates temperature and enhances performance. POINT6
1425 Ski Christie
4200 Kids Ski Gum Drop
Demand for technology in wool and wool blends is something that all the top manufacturers are cognizant of, whether they offer specialized socks or versatile multipurpose socks. But as always, the size of a retailer and niche markets lead to some nuances in product demand that can be seen in the offerings available in 2013. “In the outdoor business, the single largest marketshare providers are generally delivering merino wool product,” said Lorpen’s Barrows. “As you get into the smaller specialty stores, they’re beginning to look at delivering more of a performance message. That’s where you’ll see some of the smaller brands really bringing technology into the marketplace. There’s nothing wrong with the merino wool sock, and there’s certainly going to be a lot of those sold, but we’re beginning to see more technology become available, and sock manufacturers are looking to improve socks with an eye towards improving what already exists. Merino exists, it sells well, it performs well, and it has some great attributes. But there are ways to enhance that product.”
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Men's Trail Runner Light
Women's T3 Ski Light
Men's Compression Calf Sleeve
Pulse Celliant Compression OTC Pulse Celliant Extra Light Crew
LORPEN
T3 Heavy Trekker
For 2013, it's clear retailers should be more prepared to help customers by being up to date with the latest fibers, materials and technologies. “There are a lot of companies beginning to use a more technology in the sock program than you would find in a traditional merino sock,” continued Barrows. “In many cases, that will provide a general improvement in the performance of the sock for the athlete. I’m getting a lot of questions about that: ‘How should I sell?’ ‘How should I set my sock wall up?’ ‘How can I do a better job at merchandising?’ ‘In addition to merino, what should I be looking for in terms of fibers?’ ” With the goal of improving sock offerings via technology, Lorpen will offer some key styles for Fall/Winter 2013 that combine merino and PrimaLoft. Taking the traditional benefits of merino and enhancing them, Lorpen will provide a product that is warmer, wicks moisture more efficiently, and has an improved drying rate, among other advancements. In hiking socks, Lorpen and other suppliers are using merino-enhancing technology to reduce blistering. Lorpen will introduce several new styles at OR Winter Market including the men’s and women’s T3 Ski Light, the Trail Runner Light, MSRP $22 and Trail Runner Ultra Light, MSRP $13, the Compression Calf Sleeve, MSRP $40-$46 and T3 Heavy Trekker, MSRP $23 styles.
Vim & Vigr
FITS
Women's Cableknit Crew
Women's Light Hiker
Light Ski OTC Women's Yellowstone Ultra Light Casual Crew Dynamic Compression Sock
Vim & Vigr will be introducing a new line of lifestyle compression socks also at OR Winter Market. Using breakthrough knitting technology, the initial collection of kneehigh, wool and nylon compression Vim & Vigr socks will be available at MSRP $28 to $32 per pair beginning in May in stores and on-line. Leading manufacturers such as Balega, FITS Sock Co. and Wigwam will be offering eye-catching styles for Fall/Winter 2013, many of which are made of the highestquality merino wool. Balega uses its own unique Moh-rino fiber - a blend of ultra-fine Merino fiber and South African Mohair - in its Moh-rino Performance Crew, MSRP $18 and Women’s Paisley Crew, MSRP $18.
Balega’s other key 2013 styles include the Merino Enduro Crew, MSRP $14, and the Blister Resist No Show, MSRP $13, a sock currently being launched into run as a noshow and anticipated to be made available as a crew version for outdoor later this year. FITS Sock Co.’s women’s specific Light Hiker is made with super-fine Merino construction and is lightweight for warmer temperatures. The brand is also excited about its Light Ski OTC, MSRP $24 and the women’s specific Yellowstone Ultra Light Casual Crew, MSRP $19, the Women's Light Hiker, MSRP $20 and the Women's Cableknit Crew, MSRP $18. Wigwam’s Merino Trailblaze Pro, MSRP $16, Merino Ridge Runner Pro, MSRP $24, and Merino Airlite Pro, MSRP $14 and Merino Airflow Pro, MSRP $18 styles are constructed to offer a combination of softness, durability and performance, while also keeping feet dry and blister-free. WIGWAM
BALEGA
Merino Airlite Pro Blister Resist No Show
Merino Airflow Pro
Moh-rino Performance Crew
Merino Trailblaze Pro
Women's Paisley Crew
Merino Enduro Crew
Merino Ridge Runner Pro
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DAHLGREN
Men's Transit
Photo courtesy of Sigvaris
Darn Tough Vermont will introduce several of its merino wool-knit sock styles in a variety of categories for 2013, including the F5 Cushioned Ski Sock, MSRP $27, the Edelweiss Over-The-Calf, MSRP $26, Padded Cushion Ski/ Ride Sock for women, and the Light Cushion Hike/Trek sock, MSRP $19, the Light Cushion Women's Lifestyle sock, MSRP $21, among others. Dahlgren’s 2013 footwear line also emphasizes performance and technology. Using patented moisturemanagement construction and performance technology in every sock, Dahlgren will be offering a variety of sock types, from casual to expedition, snow, hiking, walking, and trail. Dri-Stride patented technology aids in the absorption, transfer and removal of moisture and can be found in the new X2 Expedition sock, MSRP $28, men’s and women’s Transit sock, MSRP $22, and men’s and women’s Sno line, MSRP $26. SOF SOLE
DARN TOUGH VERMONT
Running Select Sock
Women's Light Cushion Hike/Trek Men's F5 Cushioned Ski Ride
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Women's Edelweiss Over-The-Calf
Women's Light Cushion Lifestyle
Sof Sol will be highlighting performance and technology in its new Running Select Sock, MSRP $10. Available for both men and women, the sock features COOLMAX® Extreme performance fabric to wick away moisture and keep feet dry and comfortable. A deep heel pocket minimizes movement and friction while a banded instep provides a secure fit, making the sock ideal for runners looking for a combination of performance and comfort.
FAMILY OWNED
USA|MADE
PATAGONIA
Women's Ultra Lightweight Merino Crew
wigwam.com
Midweight Merino Crew
Expedition Weight Merino Hiking Mid
Patagonia’s 2013 sock line is highlighted by an extensive environmental conservation effort: the Patagonia Grasslands Project. Patagonia is purchasing premium Merino wool produced by the Ovis XXI network of growers, teaming with the network and The Nature Conservancy to regenerate 15 million acres of Patagonian grasslands by 2016. They work with wool-producing property owners to implement and promote a sustainable grazing protocol, a groundbreaking project which changes the way sheep are allowed to graze in order to regenerate grasslands. The special merino wool will be found in 2013 styles such as Patagonia’s Women's Ultra Lightweight Merino Crew Socks, MSRP $20, Midweight Merino Crew Socks, MSRP $24, and Expedition Weight Merino Hiking Mid Socks, MSRP $49, among others. As 2013 sock lines and styles are revealed, Point6’s Duke has noticed that individuals purchasing socks are valuing durability. “Consumers are concerned about spending 20 bucks and finding out that the merino wool socks may not be durable,” he explained. “That’s something that we've combatted by introducing compactspun yarns, which improve durability without sacrificing the quality of the fit. Durability has played a major part in consumer behavior recently.” Point6’s newest socks, such as the 1425 Ski Christie and 4200 Kids Ski Gum Drop, are constructed with 100 percent compact spun yarn, which is 25 percent more durable as well as softer and less bulky - than traditional ring spun yarn.
TREK
Patented moisture control from the bottom - up enhanced with MERINO WOOL keeps feet warm and dry. ULTIMAX ® MERINO AIRFLOWPRO.
Compression socks will continue to be highly sought after. “Compression is going to become more involved in the outdoor world because of its capability of reducing swelling,” said Point6’s Duke. “That’s because of the pounding effect when you’re running, whether it’s normal running or adventure racing through the mountains. I think these trends are going to be more influenced by using compression socks.” Examples of some leading compression items that will be available for Fall/Winter 2013 include SmartWool’s PhD SKI Compression Ultra Light Sock, MSRP $38, Injinji’s Compression Ex-Celerator 2.0 Sock, MSRP $55, Point6’s Pulse Celliant Compression OTC Sock, MSRP $40, and Lorpen’s men’s and women’s Compression Calf Sleeve, MSRP $40-$46. Sigvaris Sports will also be displaying a cutting-edge line of compression-driven socks at the OR Winter Market. Sigvaris Sports’ Performance Socks improve blood
INJINJI
Performance Yoga
Performance 2.0 Run Series Original Weight and Lightweight Toesock
Performance 2.0 Trail
Compression Ex-Celerator 2.0
SMARTWOOL
Smartwool PhD Backcountry Ski Smartwool PhD Outdoor Heavy OTC
circulation and increase oxygen delivery to muscle tissue, maximizing an athlete’s endurance, while the brand’s Merino Outdoor Wool Socks, MSRP $45-$80 combine compression with 100 percent Australian merino wool for anyone who enjoys the outdoors. Sigvaris’ Athletic Recovery Socks, MSRP $40 use graduated compression technology to eliminate exercise-induced muscle soreness, and its Compression Sleeves, MSRP $45 improve endurance by boosting blood circulation and delivery of oxygen to the muscles. Looking ahead to Fall/Winter 2013, it’s clear that some exciting socks made with high-end materials will be hitting the market and thanks to emerging technology, outdoor athletic pursuits will be even more comfortable and enjoyable. ■ SIGVARIS SPORTS
Athletic Recovery
Smartwool PhD Run Ultra Light Micro
Smartwool SKI Compression Ultra Light Merino Outdoor Wool socks, 15-20mmHg compression level, and 20-30mmHg compression level
Performance
Compression Sleeve
32 JANUARY 2013
Two fashion sTaTemenTs in one. In fashion, options are always better. That’s why the Seattle boot was designed to be worn up for a more stylish look, or down for a sportier look. All while taking on cold, snow, and everything else the urban jungle has to offer. Visit kamik.com for our full line of products. journey on
VisiT Us aT: outdoor Retailer winter market: Booth 29027e snowsports industries america: Booth 513 Kamik® and the
® are registered trademarks of Genfoot inc.
©
2004 Genfoot inc.
fn Platform | The maGiC marketplace The Toronto shoe show: Booth 1322-24
isPo winter 13: hall B5 stand 101
Minimalism Takes a Step Back By Thomas J. Ryan
34 JANUARY 2013
B
oth the road and trail market appear to be shifting for Fall/Winter 2013 away from targeting purely minimal looks to offering more cushioning and structured options in a lightweight package. Heelto-toe drops may fall in the zero to 8mm range, but stack heights (outsole to footbed) are coming closer to the 15 to 25mm range. Nonetheless, lightweight still rules the day with motioncontrol shoes not making a comeback. Many of the learnings of minimalism, including lean construction, flexibility and theories around natural motion and natural transition through the midfoot, continue to work their way into next years’ models. Scott Tucker, director of run at Pearl Izumi, which is rolling out its Project EMotion this spring, said the overall trend focus remains in lightweight, less-constructed and loweroffset shoes. Tucker believes barefoot is “dying away” as well as “super, low-to-the-ground, no-midsole” options. He also said minimal shoes did not address lateral biomechanics and newer options are receiving more emphasis there. “What we have been calling minimalism is evolving into something else which does not have a name but which brands like Pearl Izumi are addressing,” said Tucker. “It’s taking the elements that became popular in minimalism, evolving them, and making sense of it.” On the trail run side, Brian Hall, director of product development at Vasque likewise believes that the industry may have gone “really far towards lightweight, very minimallybuilt product” and suspects future designs will take a step back. “There is a need for most people to have a certain level of cushioning and protection inside a shoe, especially if you are going to be running primarily on a trail,” said Hall. “We see a trend moving back toward the middle. Taking all the lessons we learned from minimalism and lower heel drop and applying it in a way that makes lighter, better all-around footwear for trail running and those things you’ll start to see evolve into light hiking as well.” The innovative engine across the industry is not slowing down. The conversations over the barefoot/minimalist movement have led experimentation well beyond the traditional rules of making running footwear and that continues. Jim Van Dine, president of Ahnu and Tsubo at Deckers Outdoor, which acquired a minority stake in Hoka One One earlier this year, believes that although FiveFingers’ sales
have slowed down, the franchise’s success has created opportunities for other upstart vendors. “It seemed for more than 20 years until just the past few years the top seven running brands had it locked up,” said Van Dine. “FiveFingers opened the window to where people began to say, “Wow! This is totally different and it’s causing a lot of excitement and creating a lot of sales. Maybe we should be open to other innovations.” And while there is “probably more brands now than are viable to survive” at this point given the level of competition and limited shelf space, Van Dine believes run specialty retailers recognize the payback from bringing innovative product to the marketplace. On the color front, Lauren Beaudoin, footwear category manager, Salomon USA, said colors continue to be bright and bold in trail running, with colors indicating “higher speed” and people racing even flaunting those colors across social media websites. But some see the bright neon/fluorescent colors relaxing somewhat with more muted colors coming in the back half of 2013. “You’ve got color pop, but it’s not all over color,” said Rick Higgins, VP, global product development/merchandising for Skechers Performance Division. “It’s little hits of color, but it’s not all over.” Jeff Dill, Keen's footwear business director of the Trailhead collection, agreed that colors have become “more progressive” over the last five years to the point where they appear to be toning down a bit this year. “When you’re coming from a base where everything is brown leather and everything in the industry in the backcountry is brown or black leather, it’s exciting to see,” said Dill. “And from a fashion standpoint, a lot of the outdoor product that gets bought is worn as a badge to show off at work more than in the woods as an actual product. The colors and the callouts have been very important to the consumer. We definitely have a much brighter, more athletic and more fun palate going on.” Keen will be building on the spring launch of CNX, the largest cross-categorical launch in its history. Fall will extend the technology to waterproof versions - including the Alpha WP CNX multisport shoe, MSRP $120. The big difference is that the Keen.CNX line comes with a proprietary PU midsole with 4mm heel-to-toe offset. The simplified upper construction eliminates layers of materials for a better fit and a lower profile that brings you closer to the ground while not sacrificing support or comfort. Merrell updates the original and popular Trail and Pace Glove for fall 2013 and also introduces the Ascend Glove, a new barefoot trail running shoe built for more rugged terrain. All models are designed on a zero drop platform.
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MERRELL
MONTRAIL
FluidFlex
Ascend Glove Gore-tex
MEN'S TRAIL Glove 2.0
With a 4mm offset, the FluidFlex, MSRP $90, from Montrail features an articulated midsole and toothy microlug outsole for a close-to-ground feel that flexes with the natural movement of your foot, and protects it at the same time. The FluidFeel all-terrain training shoe, MSRP $110, combines Montrail’s trail running heritage with its proprietary FluidFoam midsole, also with a 4mm offset. THE NORTH FACE
WOMEN'S Pace Glove 2.0
Shaun Bohnsack, men’s product line manager at Merrell, remarked that the Ascend Glove came after Merrell heard consumers were modifying its Trail Gloves with plastic inserts and cushioned footbeds to add protection in the mountains. “The Ascend Glove takes what outside athlete’s loved in the Trail Glove and addresses the need for more underfoot,” said Bohnsack. Ascend Glove Gore-Tex, MSRP $160, brings the new exclusive Merrell CONNECTfit technology, developed in collaboration with Gore-Tex, to trail running. CONNECTfit was developed with a minimalist approach to be waterproof and breathable, form fitting and stretchy, giving shoes a glove-like fit. The upper sports Merrell’s new Motion Mesh (an engineered weave mesh) tuned to provide support and breathability with a seamless interior. A new Vibram outsole engineered for rugged trail running and trail protect plates for extra protection underfoot in the heel and forefoot finish off the package. The Trail Glove 2.0 for men, MSRP $100, and Pace Glove 2.0 for women, MSRP $100, feature a breathable and flexible mesh upper that is DWR treated to repel water and resist staining. Also features new M-Select Fresh on the footbed and insole for odor control, as well as Merrell’s proprietary Omni-Fit lacing system.
36 JANUARY 2013
Ultra Guide GTX
SINGLE-TRACK Hayasa II
The North Face’s Ultra Guide GTX, MSRP $130, features a dual-injection molded EVA Cradle Guide midsole to guide the foot through toe-off for a biomechanically efficient stride on road or trail. A favorite of The North Face athlete Hal Koerner, the shoe also features a lightweight UltrATAC rugged outsole for rocky terrain and Gore-Tex waterproof membrane for moisture management during wet months (also available without). Single-Track Hayasa II, MSRP $110, features the debut of FlashDry within The North Face footwear line. The quick-drying particle technology adds better moisture management to this ultra light running shoe, featuring Cradle technology for proper foot positioning. TEVA
Speed
Trail eVent
Part of Teva’s TevaSphere collection, the outsole on the Speed, MSRP $120, uses a spherical heel with two support pods to provide lightweight minimalism without sacrificing stability. Spider365 rubber sole holds its grip in all types of environments and also features a synthetic and mesh upper and mush infused insole for comfort. The Trail eVent, MSRP $140, from Teva adds an eVent waterproof membrane.
SALOMON
Fellraiser
Salomon is launching the Fellraiser, MSRP $110, inspired by its ultra light mountain runner, the S-LAB Fellcross. The Fellraiser is a low; lightweight and fast-drying trail shoe for training in muddy and wet conditions and features a low profile, non-marking Contagrip outsole, lightweight muscle, injected EVA midsole, and Ortholite liner. VASQUE
The Pendulum
At Vasque, The Pendulum, MSRP $110, keeps a trail runner’s foot close to the ground and optimally positioned for a natural forefoot strike. At the same time, an EVA midsole and TPU plate protects the runner from the occasional heel strike or wayward stone. A 6mm drop keeps the heel close to the ground and, at 10 ounces; the Pendulum is lighter than any shoe in the Vasque trail running collection. ECCO INOV-8 EVO Racer
Roclite 312 GTX
Ecco is rolling out the EVO Racer, MSRP $130 (textile); $150 (Yak Leather), streamlined to a featherweight 220 grams, featuring second generation soles and uppers, for an ultra-flexible, athletic fit. The floating shank construction and lower profile guides the foot to strike closer to the midfoot, mimicking the body’s natural running form. The aim is to give a smooth stride and more powerful push-off, to help run further, stronger and more efficiently. A new last provides a tight fit for responsiveness. Leather uppers are unlined and offer a glove-like fit. At Inov-8, the updated Roclite 312 GTX and female-specific Roclite 275 GTX, MSRP $160 for both, are still one of the lightest off road running shoes
Roclite 275 GTX
on the market, delivering a deep cleated, sticky rubber outsole that performs on any terrain while also providing high-grade climate control and a waterproof membrane to handle any conditions. The TT Trainer 2.0 mileage neutral workhorse from Zoot, MSRP $120, features Z-Bound, a superlight proprietary midsole that rebounds energy to reduce stress and fatigue. UltraFit, a
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ZOOT
REEBOK
MEN'S One Cushion TT Trainer 2.0
Ultra Kane 3.0 Trainer
unique compression design with Teksheen, boosts performance and reduces weight. Barefit seamless technologies combine internal feel with long-distance comfort. Zoot is also introducing the Ultra Kane 3.0 Trainer, MSRP $150, featuring Z-Bound for maximum cushion, a 4 density midsole for essential stability, and asymmetrical lacing to work with the anatomy of the foot. At Adidas, a significant upgrade for fall will be the Supernova Sequence 6, MSRP $120, that features a new seamless SprintWeb upper for maximum comfort with a better heel-to-toe feel and a new gender-specific stability piece that significantly reduces weight. The dual torsion system design aids a smooth transition from mid-foot stance to forefoot “push-off.” A Continental rubber outsole provides 21 percent more traction in dry conditions and 23 percent more traction in wet conditions. The model continues to pack 360 degrees of reflectivity. At The Running Event in Austin, TX in December 2012, Adidas unveiled a new, promised transformative technology that was not ready for prime time. The brand had buyers and media sign waivers not to discuss the innovations before its upcoming February global launch. Pete Stolpe, marketing specialist, running, Adidas America, said the experimentation from new and older vendors is creating a plethora of options for runners.
more companies where each runner can choose what they want on their foot,” said Stolpe. “The bottom line benefit is runners win because they have more choice than ever before and they have more of a voice. That’s fantastic for the health of the sport and makes it more inclusive as it’s ever been because there’s something for everybody.” Sister-company Reebok is coming out with the Reebok One Series Reebok One Cushion, MSRP $110; and Reebok One Guide, MSRP $115, designed to replicate how “the way the gait cycle progresses,” across the heel, midfoot and forefoot, according to Thomas Wood, senior product manager, men’s sport footwear at Reebok. The collection is uniquely designed from the back to the front in three distinct zones to ensure the athlete will land softer, transition smoother, and push forward faster. The Contact Zone at the heal area features a soft cushioning foam (C43) compound that provides shock attenuation at impact. A lightweight compound (T48) in the Midstance Zone in the middle part of the shoe provides a smooth transition. And finally, the Propulsive Zone in front plays up an ultra-responsive (R52) high rebound foam compound to propel the runner through toe off. ASICS
ADIDAS Supernova Sequence 6
GEL-Cumulus 15 GEL-Nimbus 15
“Never in the history of the industry has there been more companies with more footwear so the individual runner can truly have a choice and a voice of what they want to put on their foot,” said Stolpe. “If you’re a high-arched runner, if you’re a forefoot runner, whatever your running gait is, whatever your distance preference is, there’s never been a time in the industry‘s history where you have
38 JANUARY 2013
Asics continues its push into trail. Built for ice, snow and mud, the GELFujisetsu, MSRP $130, is lightweight yet protective, with a low-profile Solyte midsole, full ground contact, and aggressive outsole with metal spikes to rip through the winter. The second edition of the GEL-Scram 2, MSRP $75, comes complete with a trail-specific outsole for extra traction and deep flex grooves for flexibility. Rearfoot GEL cushioning and a closedmesh upper make the GEL-Scram 2 ideal for low-mileage trail runners. On the road running side, the GEL-Nimbus 15, MSRP $145, returns with an improved fit while its plush, cushioned ride and stable platform
should continue to please runners ranging from the under pronator to the moderate over pronator. The GEL-Cumulus 15, MSRP $115, gains a technical update that improves both upper fit and cushioned ride. Its stable platform is suitable for under to mild over pronators. SAUCONY
Kinvara TR2
Xodus 4.0 GTX
the midsole for an even smoother transition with less weight. The sockliner was upgraded to ComfortLite. The Kinvara 4, MSRP $100, has been upgraded to PowerGrid while a redesigned upper continues to utilize FlexFilm for a lightweight, seamless feel. Based on its popular stability road shoe, Brooks on the trail run side will be bringing out the Adrenaline ASR 9, MSRP $120, featuring a water-resistant upper, hydrophobic foam support and aggressive grip traction. The Adrenaline ASR GTX, MSRP $135, features a breathable, waterproof Gore-Tex membrane, but still maintains the tailored fit of the Adrenaline. On the road run side, the Ghost 6, MSRP $110, features a modernized upper and a new foam package in the tongue for greater breathability. The transition was made even smoother by removing the midfoot shank and creating full ground contact from heel to toe. The underfoot has a horseshoe Caterpillar Crash Pad that wraps the heel from medial to lateral sides and articulates the laydown. Also receiving an update was the Glycerin 11, MSRP $150, with a lighter, more-futuristic upper that uses innovative 3D Fit Print overlays to create structure and reduce weight. But the focus remains on making the bottom “even more plush than it’s ever been” regardless of weight, said Brooks Footwear Product Line Manager Carson Caprara. Caprara noted that both Brooks’ traditional and Pure models are seeing strong gains. He believes the brands “float” versus “feel” messaging connects with runners, and creating sales opportunities across the run space. “It’s just a matter of not having one point of view but offering choices for runners and I think that’s resonating,” said Caprara. “We’re not telling runners you have to run minimal or run core. Run them both. We’re going to build both for your type of foot and you can make the choice on what you prefer.” BROOKS
Ride 6
Ghost 6
Kinvara 4
On the trail side, the Kinvara TR2, MSRP $100, from Saucony features a carbon fiber rock plate in the midsole that delivers improved flexibility and durability while keeping feet protected from sharp objects. Heel cushioning technology has been upgraded from ProGrid to PowerGrid. The Xodus 4.0 GTX, MSRP $130, is built to run around, over and through tough terrain. It features Vibram XS-Trek outsole compound coupled with an aggressive outsole design to deliver optimal performance and durability. A midfoot support band is integrated into the lacing system for an improved overall fit and feel, especially on slippery and uneven surfaces. The upper also offers Gore-Tex protection. On the road run side, the Ride 6, MSRP $110, also finds the ProGrid replaced with the PowerGrid in
Glycerin 11
At New Balance, a Gore-Tex version of the Trail 910, MSRP $110, is coming out. Borrowing the best of both the 1210 and the 890, the Trail 910 leverages the trail specific fit of the new UL-1 last and the fast attitude from a REVLite midsole for a lightweight, high cushioning trail shoe suitable for all types of terrain. NEW BALANCE
Trail 910
1260v3
v870v3
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ALTRA
Torin
3-SUM
The One
40 JANUARY 2013
On the road run side, Stabilicore has been removed from the 1260v3, MSRP $145, mostly for cosmetic reasons, but still retains the required support a runner needs. A duel density post has been added. An asymmetrical heel counter has also been put in to reduce over pronation. On the v870v3 mild-stability shoe, MSRP $110, the Abzorb crashpad has been extended to the midfoot to ensure shock absorption for a variety of foot strikers and also features a no sew upper. Altra will be showcasing the Torin, MSRP $115, its maximum cushioning shoe aimed to sit alongside the Glycerin and Asics’ Nimbus, yet still at a zero-drop profile. Offering 50 percent more midsole cushioning than Altra’s classic Instinct model, the midsole is a cushy 18mm with 3mm of Altra’s proprietary responsive, rebound-y and lightweight AltraBound on 15mm of EVA, for a total stack height of 28mm. A sleek design, with minimal seams, brings the weight to just 8.6 ounces, making it one of the lightest “maximum cushioning” shoes available. It also features Altra’s signature combination of Zero Drop and foot-shaped forefoot. “This is probably the truest expression of who we are as a company,” said Golden Harper, a co-founder of Altra. “What we have always represented is blending the benefits of minimal or barefoot with the structure, support, cushioning and comfort of traditional shoes. This shoe is probably the purest expression of what Altra is. It’s very cushioned but allows for less impact, better running technique and less injury risk.” Altra will also be rolling out the 3-Sum, MSRP $130, its first ever triathlon specific shoe with a seamless sock free liner, drain holes throughout the sole and quick transition pull tabs. It represents its lightest running shoe at just 6.7 ounces. At even more of a budget price, The One, MSRP $100, is a neutral running shoe with performance cushioning at 7.3 ounces.
Harper believes the brand has grabbed traction in run specialty because the brand is dedicated to the channel and also run by former storeowners and active marathon runners. He believes word-ofmouth as well as the uniqueness of its foot-shape and toe-box construction has also grabbed consumers. “Anybody with any type of injury with forefoot pain, bunions and other stuff, when they put it on, they know it’s going to work,” said Harper. “Anybody putting our shoes on immediately feels how it can provide a different running experience.”
karhu
Flow Trail Fulcrum
HOKA ONE ONE Kailua Tarmac
Flow Light Fulcrum
Flow Trainer Fulcrum
Hoka One One is introducing both road and trail versions of its women’s Kailua Tarmac, MSRP $130. The shoe features an injected EVA midsole and a 5mm heel-to-toe drop ratio. This lower volume, and narrower last translates to a better fit and increased rebound to enable a quicker transfer of energy off of the front of the shoe. The trail version features 2mm lugs versus 1mm on the road version. Karhu is expanding its popular Flow collection with three new shoe collections showcasing Karhu’s Fulcrum Technology that features lighter weight, more flexible materials and a lower heel drop to improve running economy. “The new Flow collection uses direct underfoot placement of our Fulcrum Technology to ensure the best body position and movement through the gait cycle regardless of whether the runner is a heel, midfoot or forefoot striker,” said Huub Valkenburg, Karhu’s president and CEO. “The result is a quicker transition and an effortless sense of flying over the ground.” The Flow Trail Fulcrum, MSRP $120, features a counter-directional T-lug design equally adaptable to both uphill and downhill running. The lower profile maximizes the feel of the terrain without compromising the Fulcrum Technology’s ability to increase propulsion. A durable waterproof mudguard provides protection. Specifically engineered for the competitive runner, the Flow Light Fulcrum, MSRP $110, features an advanced wearable EVA foam in the midsole and outsole for the line’s most responsive ride. A seamless upper ensures a snug fit. The Flow Trainer Fulcrum, MSRP $115, is durable enough to be used as an everyday trainer yet light enough to double as a racing flat. The model’s softer EVA combined with a directly placed fulcrum delivers increased forward propulsion, diminishes braking and promotes a naturally comfortable ride.
From K-Swiss, the Blade Light Run II, MSRP $95, features speed activated Blade Light cushioning technology engineered to enhance more natural mid-foot ground interaction. The lightweight and breathable upper on the neutral running shoe features the comfortable and supportive seam free technology. K-SWISS
Blade Light Run II
Skechers is introducing GOrun 2, MSRP $80, which features an elevated bump in the arch area for a smoother transition. The GOimpulse sensors on the 4mm drop road shoe are constructed with breathable fourway stretch mesh to allow toe splay. It also features a removable insole for a custom fit. Skechers is also unveiling a trail version of the GObionic model with a 4mm heel-to-toe drop with a removable insole that makes it a zero drop shoe.
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skechers
GOrun 2
The GOrun Speed, MSRP $110, represents Meb Keflezighi’s first racing flat available to the public since the star marathoner first joined Skechers as an endorser in 2011. The 4mm drop racing shoe features a narrow last and less cushioning to foster speed. For fall/winter 2013, Skora is further pushing their unique aesthetic, “challenging what a running shoe can look like,”said David Sypniewski, founder and CEO. Featuring 360-degree reflectivity for high visibility night running, the Phase-X zero-drop road shoe, MSRP $120 is constructed with a new multilayer mesh upper composed of a soft inner mesh with a custom printed reflective pattern and a lightweight breathable open-weave top mesh providing a highly reflective effect in combination with durability, comfort and breathability previously not achievable in traditional mesh. SKORA
GOrun Speed
Phase-X
Camo Form
Skora’s Camo Form, MSRP $185, limited-edition, zero-drop running shoe features a Pittards CIG (Custom Image Generation) camouflage pattern Armor-Tan Goatskin leather. Originally developed and used for the Military, the pattern is dyed into the grain of the leather, not printed on top, providing a unique aesthetic with extreme durability of the pattern while preserving the performance benefits of the goatskin leather and WR100X Armor-Tan tanning process. At Spira, the Stinger XLT, MSRP $130, is a high performance training shoe with the lightweight responsive qualities of a racing flat. The two independent forefoot and one heel WaveSpring are low profile, lightweight springs which maximizes cushioning and provides superior shock protection on impact, and assists in reducing fatigue and stress on the body and joints. The Stinger 2 Racing Flat, MSRP $100, is supported by a molded external shank in the mid-foot to aid in torsional stability. ■ SPIRA
42 JANUARY 2013
Stinger XLT
Stinger 2 Racing Flat
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REFERENCE
2013
The Tech Fabric and Fiber
prim•er
EXPANDED EASY TO USE UP-TO-DATE
44 JANUARY 2013
N
o one is expected to know or remember all the current technology in apparel at all times. That would be impossible, given the various sources, and the varying definitions therein, of textile technology information. So much is happening in the world of fabrics, fibers, blends, laminates and finishes it’s easy to lose your place in the book. Dynamic evolution is part of what makes the textile world so interesting, and so viable. Suppliers are continually striving to make more advanced materials, and manufacturers work actively in that chain to try and produce the best garments possible. Fragile humans are constantly searching for drier, lighter, more breathable and more durable materials to protect us while we work and play outside.
3M Scotchlite Reflective Material - 3M Scotchlite Reflective Material uses a technology known as retroreflection, which helps the eye perceive light in low-light and nighttime conditions. 2014 marks 75 years since researchers at 3M first made road signs with Scotchlite Reflective sheeting material that was much brighter than paint, later transferring the technology to fabrics. 3M offers a wide range of Scotchlite reflective material that satisfies demand for visibility, versatility and durability. 3M Thinsulate - For 30 years manufacturers have incorporated Thinsulate insulation in outerwear, ski and boardwear, hunting clothes, footwear, gloves and accessories. Products include: Insulation, Supreme Insulation, Ultra Insulation, and Lite Loft Insulation. ActiLITE - Salomon’s first layer/base layer for moisture management. ActiTHERM - Salomon’s second layer/thermal layer. AlpenWool Plus - A warm, plaited knit fabric with notable moisture transfer - built with a rugged wool/poly/nylon knit face and a soft polyester fleece back. Outdoor Research uses AlpenWool Plus in select apparel and headwear in which comfort and performance share precedence.
Adaptability and performance characteristics such as stretch and weight combine with zoned construction, articulation, seam taping, fit and features in the toolbox of the designer. To stay current, sales floor managers consider fabric and fiber education an on-going project, so that sales people can match the right fabric and construction to the right customer. (See “How to Sell Outerwear,” page 68 SGB tapped into the expertise of industry leaders to bring you the 2013 apparel technology primer. While by no means exhaustive, let this list serve as your quick reference guide. And if we missed something, please let us know so we can continue to educate ourselves as well.
3M Thinsulate Insulation
Arc’teryx 24 Merino Wool Blend - Intended for athletic, casual, travel and climbing, this merino wool/cotton blend has next-to-skin comfort, antimicrobial properties, thermoregulation, and lightweight durability. It integrates urban styling with technical designs including articulation and relaxed fit. Capilene - Patagonia makes four Capilene baselayer fabrics for different levels of exertion and temperatures: Silkweight, Lightweight, Midweight and Expedition weight. It’s a moisture-wicking polyester that keeps you warm even when wet. Capilene polyester is also recycled, recyclable and features Gladiodor natural odor control. It is wicking, quick to dry, designed for fast-forward aerobic activities and machine washable. Celliant - A responsive textile shown to reduce pain, improve strength, balance temperature and increase oxygen levels in body tissue. Celliant harnesses and
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recycles the body’s natural energy through fibers utilizing a blend of minerals and proprietary ingredients embedded into its core. Celliant fibers absorb and store electromagnetic energy emissions from the human body and release them where they are reabsorbed in the skin and deep muscle tissue. Fibers, yarns and fabrics with Celliant technology can be found in some of the worlds most recognized name brands. ClimaPRO 5k/5k - Salomon’s 5,000 waterproof, 5,000 breathable fabric - protective, breathable and lightweight. Also available in 10k/10k. ClimaPRO Active - Salomon’s third layer/outerwear layer, 10,000 waterproof (mm) and 30,000 breathable (g/m2/24h), a breathable fabric also protective during bad weather. ClimaPRO Storm - Salomon’s 20,000 waterproof, 20,000 breathable highly protective and breathable fabric for performance during rain, snow and wind. ClimaShield - Based in Clinton, TN, HarVest Consumer Insulation, Inc. brings 25 years of experience in insulation technology to manufacture its own insulation servicing the outdoor, military and hospitality industries with a broad portfolio of products, custom-fit in sleeping bags, comforters, quilts, outerwear, gloves and footwear. It is the only major manufacturer of lightweight continuous filament insulation in the world, tailored to the specific needs of the customers’ product lines. Cocona Technology - An active particle technology used to permanently embed particles onto any fabric and keep them active so they won’t wear or wash out, enhancing the performance by improving UV protection, providing odor adsorption and accelerating breathability. Derived from natural sources, the active particles attract and vaporize moisture, absorb body heat and accelerate evaporation and drying. Fabrics that use Cocona are branded Cocona, aside from The North Face Flash Dry and Pearl Izumi Minerale, which are both powered by Cocona Technology. Cordura - Fabric that many of the most respected brands, retailers and militaries around the world have used for durable, versatile and reliable construction using high tenacity fiber technologies for 45 years. It’s available in a range of weights from ultra-lightweight to heavy and in many different constructions and textures that make strong, long-lasting products in categories from outdoor, military and workwear to luggage and upholstery. The fabric is branded under: Ballistic, Baselayer, Classic, Denim, Duck, EcoMade, HP, Lite, Naturalle, NYCO FR, NYCO and UltraLite. Cordura Soft Shell - Cordura is blended with Lycra and coated with a DWR finish making it breathable, stretchy and durable in high-performance fabric resistant to abrasions, tears and scuffs.
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Cocona Technology
Deluge DWR - Patagonia’s proprietary durable water repellent (DWR) fabric finish. Garments with Deluge DWR finish have like-new repellency after years of extensive use. Deluge is so effective at repelling light rain and snow the company can forego the use of a waterproof barrier on Patagonia soft shells thus improving breathability. When used on Patagonia hard shells, in conjunction with a waterproof/breathable barrier, the Deluge DWR finish keeps the outer fabric from becoming saturated so the breathable barrier can do its job. DownTek - A water repellent down technology that reduces the absorption of water by 300 percent compared to untreated down. It is an ultra-fine hydrophobic polymerization tested to be long lasting, safe and effective without adding weight. Down Decor is currently producing DownTek in 700 and 800 fill power for companies including Big Agnes, Sea to Summit, Mountain Designs, NEMO, EMS, Mountain Designs, Reecho, Mountain Hardwear, Salewa, Brooks-Range and more. LL Bean will be making the
Ultralight down jacket using a DownTek 850 fill. DriDown - Down that has been treated with a molecular level, hydrophobic polymer to help it stay dry 10 times longer, retain 170 percent more loft in the presence of moisture, and dry 33 percent faster than untreated down. Proprietary to Sierra Designs and Isis, DriDown treatment adds no discernable weight and a minimal amount of cost to jackets and sleeping bags while significantly enhancing down loft, performance, and warmth in rainy, damp, humid environments. Dri-Release - Dri-Release technology enables brands to create unique apparel that dries four times faster than cotton, has everlasting wicking, and has FreshGuard odor controlwhile still maintaining the look, hand and feel of natural fibers. Blended products are used by brands such as Sierra Designs, KEEN, Mammut, Billabong, The North Face, Puma and others. Materials branded under the Dri-Release name include: cotton, Celliant, e.c.o., wool, linen, soy, SeaCell, Tencel, and silk.
other PTT (poly (trimethylene terephthalate)) polymers, now in the ‘triexta’ classification. Producing DuPont Sorona uses 30 percent less energy and reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 63 percent compared to the production of an equal amount of nylon, doesn’t use or contain heavy metals, and requires no additional chemical treatments for stain resistance. DuPont Teflon Repel and Release Technologies - Teflon fends off soil, stains and spills without impacting the weight, look, feel, color or breathability of wool, cotton and blends. Fabrics treated for repellency fight off dry soil and spills and splashes, allowing liquids to bead up and roll off. Fabrics treated for stain release allow most oil- and water-based stains to be removed during normal cleaning. EN Testing - European Norm (EN) 13537 is a standardized scientific test method for identifying the temperature rating of a sleeping bag. Enduraloft - A soft, high-loft synthetic insulation that is lightweight, water-resistant, retains its insulating properties when wet, and recovers well after compression. eVent - GE’s eVent waterproof fabrics get their unique properties from a proprietary and patented waterproof membrane currently gaining a lot of momentum. Its unique composition allows millions of tiny pores to breathe at their full potential. Sweat vents directly to the outside of the fabric in one step called Direct Venting Technology. Freshguard - An odor neutralizer embedded in fabric that eliminates odors by blocking body oils from attaching to the material. Gore-Tex - ePTFE, or expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, was created by Bob Gore in 1969 when he rapidly stretched PTFE under certain conditions. The result was an incredibly strong, microporous material with an amazing list of characteristics including low water absorption and weathering properties. By 1978 Gore-Tex fabric was introduced and the world met the first waterproof, breathable outerwear. With a commitment to innovation and creativity, products have continued Photo courtesy of Columbia to improve and evolve. Gore-Tex membrane - The secret of Gore-Tex products lies in its biDriZone - A high-performance, two-layer waterproof/ component membrane, containing more than nine billion microscopic pores breathable fabric (waterproofness 18,000 mm, breathability which are approximately 20,000 times smaller than a drop of water but 700 28,000 g/m²/24hrs) used in Sierra Designs four-season times bigger than a molecule of moisture vapor. So while water in its liquid sleeping bags and single wall tents. form cannot penetrate the Gore-Tex membrane, moisture vapor can escape. DuPont Sorona - Sorona is the most recent addition to The membrane makes garments durably waterproof, windproof and breathable the DuPont legacy in fiber innovation that includes nylon, so that wearers stay dry and comfortable. Gore-Tex fabric is easy to take care neoprene, Lycra, Coolmax and Cordura. For the past 80 years of and won’t lose its effectiveness after repeated washing. The company’s DuPont fibers have improved comfort and performance Guaranteed to Keep You Dry Promise is that no liquid from the outside will get and now with Sorona, sustainability. Knowledge of to you on the inside. If you are not completely satisfied with the waterproofness, chemistry and polymer science led to the discovery of windproofness, or breathability of your Gore-Tex product, they will repair it, nylon in 1939 and has continued with the development replace it or refund your purchase price. of Sorona, offering new attributes and benefits as a fiber Gore-Tex Paclite - The lightest, most compressible Gore-Tex, Paclite is a made in a new, unique and environmentally friendly way. comfortable, low-bulk fabric offering wet weather protection and breathability. Acclaimed as the most advanced fiber platform in six Gore-Tex fabrics are manufactured according to strict quality and performance decades, Sorona is made in part with renewably sourced standards. Placed between outer materials and the garment lining, the Gore(bio-based) ingredients instead of petrochemicals. In Tex membrane allows perspiration to escape while providing a barrier against March 2009, the Federal Trade Commission issued a water and wind. new generic classification for fibers made with Sorona or Gore-Tex Performance Shell - Designed to provide breathable comfort and
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durably waterproof and windproof protection, Gore-Tex Performance Shells are ideal for a wide range of outdoor activities. The Gore-Tex Performance Shell has a special Gore-Tex membrane that’s bonded to the outer material. The separate lining inside ensures better wearing comfort and versatility. Gore-Tex Pro - The most rugged, waterproof/breathable, lightweight fabric in the company’s line, further improved for 2013. H2No - Patagonia’s performance standard for waterproofness, breathability and durability, ensuring a high level of long-term performance backed by the company’s Ironclad Guarantee. Killer Wash is Patagonia’s proprietary wet flex test that simulates years of use in drenching conditions. The standard is 20,000 MM before and 10,000 MM after the wash test (per JIS L 1092 B). Patagonia shell fabrics are produced in 2-, 2.5-, and 3-Layers. Illusion Fabric - Sierra Designs offers the 2L waterproof/ breathable Illusion fabric. Currently available in minimalist Cloud Airshell and Cloud Pant, Illusion fabric is waterproof and breathable, creating ultralight (4-oz jacket), ultra-compact (packs to the size of two energy bars) rainwear. Designed as part of the Cloud Layering System, the Cloud Airshell and Cloud Pant are worn only when it’s raining. Insect Blocker - Columbia’s fabric-level defense in the battle against mosquitoes, flies, ticks and other biting insects. Insect Shield - Insect Shield Repellent Apparel and Insect Shield Repellent Gear provide long-lasting, effective and convenient personal insect protection in the first-ever EPAregistered insect repellent clothing. EPA granted Insect Shield extended durability claims for its apparel registration through 70 washings, nearly three times the longevity of the original registration at 25 washings. Products feature the Insect Shield process combined with a proprietary formulation of Permethrin - resulting in effective, odorless insect protection from mosquitoes, ticks, ants, flies, chiggers and no-see-ums that lasts the expected lifetime of a garment. Ion-mask - A world leader in liquid repellent nano-coating technology. It is hydrophobic, stain resistant, breathable, lightweight and waterproof enhancing. Merino wool - Wool from the Merino breed of sheep, considered some of the softest, finest wool in the world. Motion Fleece - A light stretchy microfleece with a smooth, hard wearing nylon face and soft textured back, offering moisture transport, freedom of movement, warmth and abrasion resistance. (Outdoor Research) Omni-Dry - Columbia’s most breathable waterproof technology, designed to keep users dry during highly aerobic activity, whatever the weather. Omni-Freeze - Omni-Freeze consists of specially shaped
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flat yarns that facilitate the release of heat and feel cooler to the touch during warm weather and active outdoor adventures. (Columbia) Omni-Freeze Ice - This active cooling technology makes use of moisture to lower the temperature of the fabric, so it feels cool to the touch and users stay comfortable in hot conditions. (Columbia) Omni-Freeze ZERO - Omni-Freeze Zero is the industry’s newest leading cooling technology whereby little blue rings concentrate a cooling agent close to the skin and capitalize on sweat to lower the overall temperature of the fabric, accelerate the wicking process and provide an instant and prolonged cooling. (Columbia) Omni-Heat Reflective - Technology helps regulate temperature as a laminate by reflecting and retaining body warmth while dissipating moisture and excess heat. (Columbia) Omni-Shade - Omni-Shade clothing protects users from UV radiation by blocking the majority of the sun’s harmful rays. (Columbia) Omni-Shield - This rain and stain barrier resists light rain and stains, keeping wearers clean and protected. Omni-Shield delivers protection from the outdoors where it is least expected but most needed. (Columbia)
Photo courtesy of Obermeyer
Omni-Shield Blood ‘N Guts - This soil and slime barrier resists guts, repels fluids and resists/releases stains, keeping sportsmen clean and protected in the wild. (Columbia) Omni-Tech - Omni-Tech products provide premium waterproof-breathable protection by keeping outside elements from getting in, while still allowing moisture vapors to move away from the skin. (Columbia) Omni-Wick - Moisture transferring technology that moves and disperses sweat away from the body for quick evaporation, keeping wearers comfortable during physical activity. (Columbia) Omni-Wick Evap - Moisture management technology dispersing sweat quickly across a broad surface area for accelerated evaporation. (Columbia) OutDry - Features a patented lamination process that bonds a waterproof membrane directly to a highly breathable outer layer used primarily in footwear and gloves. (Mountain Hardwear, Columbia) Pertex - A range of high-performance fabrics engineered for use in apparel, sleeping bags and jackets. Pertex fabric technology is based on a natural
phenomenon called capillary action technology - the ability for water to be drawn up into narrow spaces. Moisture moves along the capillaries between the fibers and spreads over a large surface area where it evaporates. Pertex Endurance - Pertex Endurance incorporates an ultra-thin membrane with a durable nylon face fabric. The layer is so thin that it hardly adds any weight, nor does it considerably affect the softness of the material. This waterresistant, windproof, vapor permeable shell keeps the elements out while allowing internal moisture to escape. Lightweight and extremely compressible, it is used in select insulating and technical apparel, headwear and shelter systems. It is windproof, water-resistant and breathable even at low temperatures and is primarily used in sleeping bags, expedition apparel and down jackets. Pertex Quantum - An ultralight fabric offering a high level of breathability and weight-savings, ideal for insulating layers where high water resistance isn’t as important. Pertex Shield - Balances waterproofness, breathability and wind resistance within a flexible, durable and lightweight construction. The combination of technically advanced face fabric technology with a proprietary PU film laminate balances performance in waterproof breathability with durability. Polarmax - The primary retail brand of Longworth Industries, Inc., located in West End and Candor, NC, with 25 years of technical base-layer apparel experience, fabric development and product testing. Polarmax engineers Acclimate Dry performance fabrics with a unique moisture management system, breathability, anti-microbial, non-shrink and wash-and-wear qualities. Its manufacturing facilities, warehouse and shipping activities take place within a 15-mile radius in the U.S. and many yarns and fibers are recycled and packaging is either recycled and/or re-taskable. Polarmax maintains control of every process used to bring its products to consumers - fabric development and technology, product design and testing, cut and sew, sales and marketing, warehousing and distribution, and customer service. New this year is a proprietary XTRdry quick-dry cotton fabric, plus new colors and styles in its AYG apparel line. Polarmax Comp 4 Fleece - A heavier synthetic layer that is sheer on the outside for easy layering and brushed on the inside for a soft fleece feel. This also has an anti-microbial treatment. Polarmax Tech Silk - A synthetic with Acclimate Dry Moisture wicking technology. It is also quick drying and treated with Scent Prevent. Polarmax XTRdry Cotton - A cotton that undergoes a proprietary treatment to make it quick drying and moisture wicking while still retaining a soft hand. Polartec Alpha - Polartec, created in 1991 (PolarFleece originated in 1979) by American textile-icon Malden Mills (founded in Malden, MA in 1906), introduces its latest durable breathable layer, Polartec Alpha - a highly stable layer allowing for the use of more open and breathable fabrics on the outer and inner layers of “puffy” style garments. It provides active warmth that allows air exchange for breathability and comfort in dynamic environmental situations. Typical puffy-insulated garments require high-density woven layers that create a vapor barrier. While they have worked well in static conditions, classic puffy down and synthetic insulation batting tended to trap moisture inside the garment during activity. Polartec has been able to reach “unprecedented levels of breathability and moisture vapor transport” in a puffy outerwear performance fabric. Polartec Anti-Static Technology - Controls nuisance static electricity, reduces
static cling and minimizes the occurrence of static shock. Polartec Durable Water Repellency - Sheds rain and snow providing protection from surprise changes in the weather. Quick-drying. Polartec Eco-Engineering | Polartec Recycled Technology - Fabric contains at least 50 percent recycled content saving natural resources and energy while reducing CO2 emissions. Post-Consumer waste (mostly clear plastic soda and water bottles) is turned into first-quality polyester yarn for Polartec fabric. Polartec Eco-Engineering | Polartec Renewable Cocona Technology - Activated carbon from coconut shells speeds dry times, evaporative cooling and reduces odor. Provides UVA and UVB sun protection. Cocona Technology uses a patented encapsulation process that protects the integrity of the pores during extrusion into polyester yarns, keeping them open and active for the life of the product. The product and process are all natural and permanent. Polartec Eco-Engineering | Polartec Renewable Wool Technology - Wool/recycled polyester blend. Promotes warmth, wicking and quick drying. Naturally odor resistant. Polartec Hardface Technology - Increases abrasion resistance and enhances durable water repellency. Polartec NeoShell - Polartec NeoShell features an exclusive membrane allowing air to pull moisture vapor out even at extremely low levels of pressure so it helps keep users drier during high-exertion activities. The fabric is waterproof, has breathable two-way air exchange, blocks wind, stretches, is warm, light, quiet, and machine washable Polartec Odor Resistant with Polygiene Technology Polygiene is a bluesign approved odor-resistant technology that inhibits the growth of odor-causing bacteria for the life of the garment. Garments stay fresher longer between washes. Polartec Polypro Technology - Hydrophobic, fast-drying, next-to-skin. Light and comfortable. Odor resistant.
Polartec Neoshell
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® Polartec Power Dry® High Efficiency
Highly breathable High efficiency grid construction maximizes warmth, minimizes weight and enhances breathability
Moisture spreads and evaporates Dry zone next-to-skin Sweat picked up off skin
Polartec Power Dry
Polartec Power Dry - Polartec Power Dry fabrics are designed to keep skin dry when sweating. All fabrics in this series feature a patented bi-component knit construction that uses different yarns on either side of the fabric. This creates two different surfaces: one that is optimized to move moisture away from the skin, the other to dry quickly. Polartec Powershield Pro - Designed to strike a balance between weather protection and breathability, Power Shield Pro offers soft-shell weather resistance without compromise to breathability, combining air permeability with durable hydrostatic resistance. Fabrics feature a smooth, tightly woven face for abrasion resistance and polyester back for a high warmth-to-weight ratio. The membrane in the middle enables the fabric to block 99 percent of wind. The remaining one percent circulates within the fabric, enhancing moisture vapor transmission, improving breathability and reducing risk of heat-stress buildup. Polartec Power Stretch - Polartec Power Stretch fabrics feature breathable body-hugging four-way stretch, keep users dry, provide warmth without weight and are considered some of the most versatile outdoor and fitness apparel fabrics available. Many fabrics feature proprietary construction with two unique surfaces: a durable wind- and abrasion-resistant outer layer and a soft wicking inner layer. Some fabrics in the series feature compression stretch. Polartec Repreve 100 Technology - Fabric contains at least 50 percent recycled content using Repreve 100 - a recycled fiber made from 100 percent post consumer plastic bottles. Polartec Sun Protection Technology - UPF 15 blocks at least 93 percent of UV. Certified testing and labeling: AATCC 183, ASTM D6603, ASTM D6544. Polartec Thermal Pro - The most visually dynamic,
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Photo courtesy of Columbia
technically advanced and diverse of the Polartec insulation fabrics. Available in a variety of unique surface textures and patterns, Polartec Thermal Pro fabrics are styling options for any end use. New high-loft versions have achieved the highest warmth to weight ratios of any Polartec fabric. Other versions have the look of traditional wool with the performance benefits of fleece. PrimaLoft ECO - A lightweight combination of 50 percent recycled polyester material with PrimaLoft virgin fibers for high-loft, thermally efficient and windand water-resistant insulation that is compressible and breathable. PrimaLoft Insulation - PrimaLoft uses a patented microfiber structure to help the body retain warmth and conserve energy. Considered one of the best synthetic insulators available for performance garments. PrimaLoft ONE - Water-resistant, siliconized microfiber insulation that mimics the loft and compressibility of down but remains warmth when wet. Ultra-fine fibers are specially treated in a patented process and then combined into an insulating core that is soft, lightweight and water resistant. Absorbs three times less water and claims 14 percent more warmth when dry and 24 percent more warmth when wet than competitive insulation. Quick Duck - Carhartt’s proprietary 8.5-ounce, 60-percent cotton/40-percent polyester canvas with a DWR finish that’s 30 percent lighter yet as durable as Carhartt sandstone duck. Nylon lining quilted to mid-weight polyester
insulation lining featured in body and sleeves provides warmth without bulk. Schoeller - Schoeller fabrics from Switzerland are now legendary with their quality, functionality, longevity and durability along with a modern look and approach to designing multi-functional apparel. They are available in three stretch fabrics: Dynamic, for comfort in all seasons and applications; Prestige, the most durable; and WB-formula, for water and windproof comfort. Schoeller c_change - A membrane technology with a capacity to actively react to changes in temperature and moisture levels. It is windproof and waterproof and free of PFOA and PFOS. C_change is based on nature and acts like a pinecone, opening in dry warm weather and closing in cold. Schoeller corkshell - Corkshell is made of an FSC-certified cork granulate that is a by-product in the production of wine corks. This natural granulate is pulverized and combined with the fabric in a patented process. Two corkshell options include a single layer fabric construction with a cork coating on the inside of the fabric and a 3-layer fabric construction in which the cork coating is between a stretchy, water and wind repelling surface fabric and a highly breathable lining that can be adapted to the requirements of weather conditions. Additionally, cork has natural stretch properties and therefore corkshell can be offered in both 2-way and 4-way stretch qualities. Corkshell offers up to 30 percent higher thermal insulation when compared to traditional soft-shells and is highly breathable. Corkshell fabrics are soft, lightweight and offer natural antimicrobial properties. They offer high wearer comfort and aid in moisture and odor management. Schoeller solar+ - Textiles equipped with solar+ intensively absorb heat rays from the sun. Even thin fabrics can keep the wearer pleasantly warm with a higher degree of comfort and performance. Solar+ effectively uses the natural power of the sun, keeping the wearer tangibly warmer, and supports the feeling of well being, particularly at low temperatures. Furthermore, solar+ keeps textiles from losing heat. Summit Series - The North Face line of apparel built to endure extremes of weather and terrain while delivering the highest level of performance from base camp to summit. SympaTex - Described as 100-percent waterproof, 100-percent windproof, and providing optimal breathability, Sympatex also uses environmentally friendly manufacturing and disposal processes (Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and bluesign certified). Through workmanship and selected materials, the membrane is abrasion-resistant up to 100,000 cycles (Martindale). The non-porous structure makes the membrane flexible, thin and light. The membrane retains its functionality through the life of clothing, footwear or accessories. It is non-porous
and easy to care for as the membrane cannot become blocked by dirt, residual washing agents or salt crystals. TENCEL Lyocell - Tencel is a branded lyocell fiber that comes from the pulp of eucalyptus trees. The trees are grown on sustainably run farms certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). (Patagonia) Touchtec - Supple, durable, and water-resistant leather that utilizes patentpending nanotechnology allowing accurate use of current touch-screen mobile devices. Ventia Dry - Proprietary to Outdoor Research, Ventia fabrics provide a waterproof/ breathable barrier offering storm-level weather protection and active-use comfort. Products utilizing Ventia Hybrid allows body mapped construction combining soft shell fabric. WINDSTOPPER Active Shell - Windstopper Active Shells are light, packable garments offering windproofness, maximum breathability and water resistance. Windstopper Active Shells keep wearers comfortable for enhanced performance during highly aerobic activities. WINDSTOPPER Insulated Shell - Windstopper Insulated Shells provide lightweight warmth by combining windproofness, breathability and water resistance; designed to keep warm air in and cold wind out while allowing perspiration to escape. WINDSTOPPER Soft Shell - Windstopper Soft Shells offer windproofness and breathability combining the comfort of a soft mid-layer and the water resistance of a shell in one garment. Keep wearers comfortable with the freedom of movement needed for performance in a wide range of activities and weather conditions. WINDSTOPPER Technical Fleece - Windstopper Technical Fleece provides more warmth and comfort than non-windproof fleece with less bulk by combining windproofness and breathability, a warm, laminated fleece fabric offering cold-weather protection and moisture management, effective as a midlayer or outer layer, keeping users warm and comfortable in cool and windy conditions. ■
WINDSTOPPER Technical Fleece
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AN OFFER WOLVERINE brand, a recognized leader in innovation for 130 years, has designed and built the best quality products since its inception in 1883 and continues to lead the market today. Fall 2013 is no different with the launch of the new Cameron and Rockford jackets. There are many duck canvas jackets on the market priced for around $100 that are very basic in nature, with minimal features and no technology. Wolverine believes that if you pay $100 you deserve $100 worth of jacket, which is exactly what these jackets deliver. “There are a lot of jackets on the market but the Cameron and Rockford jackets are truly different,” said Lisa Stoepker, Wolverine Product Manager. “We utilized 3M ™ Thinsulate ™ Insulation for warmth and 12 oz. heavy duty cotton duck canvas with DuraLock™ Defend technology for water and oil resistance. The jackets also feature Wolverine’s bi-swing back and fully articulated elbows for greater range of motion, and multiple interior and exterior pockets designed to meet the needs of every job. Combine all these elements and we’ve created the absolute best jackets for the price.” Wolverine has always backed its newest footwear technologies with a 30 day comfort guarantee. And Wolverine is backing the Cameron and Rockford jackets with the same confidence, a rare find in the apparel industry. “For $100 retail combined with all the features and functionality, we know consumers will feel these jackets are worth every penny,” said Todd Yates, President of Wolverine Brand. “We’re so confident, that if your customers are not completely satisfied with this jacket, we’ll take it back directly from them, no questions asked. We think that’s an offer you can’t refuse.”
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Elasticized back combined with fully gusseted arm sockets create Wolverine’s entirely functional bi-swing back for optimum comfort and wear
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Fully gusseted arm sockets for maximum flexibility without bulkiness
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150 grams of 3M™ Thinsulate™ Insulation provides warmth in the harshest elements
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12 oz. heavy duty cotton duck canvas with Wolverine DuraLock™ Defend technology for water and oil resistance
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Triple needle stitching adds durability
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Articulated elbow pleats offer greater range of motion
Multiple interior and exterior pockets designed to securely store everything for the job Front kangaroo pockets lined with taffeta for wind resistance Concealed ribbed storm cuffs keep warm air in and cold air out Three-piece lined hood with draw cord provides extra warmth and protection
If you haven’t seen Wolverine’s Fall 2013 footwear and apparel line, contact us at 616.863.4774 or stop by our booth at one of the following shows: SHOT Show (booth # 10540), Outdoor Retailer (booth # 32155) or MAGIC.
3M™ Thinsulate™ Insulation with trusted warmth from the brand you know. The original warmth-without-bulk insulation, 3M™ Thinsulate™ Insulation enhances your ability to enjoy the outdoors, providing:
3M and Thinsulate are trademarks of 3M
• Breathable, lightweight warmth and durability • Up to nearly twice the warmth of other synthetics and one-and-a-half times the warmth of 550 fill down when equal thicknesses are measured • Highly breathable, “keep dry comfort” under damp, sweaty or rainy conditions • The freedom of movement to enjoy your time outdoors with less restriction • Dependable thermal performance through repeated washings
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The
Next
Generation of Outerwear By Aaron H. Bible
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What fashion-forward design, high-tech materials and increased functionality are bringing to outerwear next winter
W
e all look forward to the first snowfalls in October when it’s time to bust out the waterproof-breathable shell. After all, it’s a hundreds-of-dollars investment that you only get to wear four months out of the year, six if you’re lucky. You know the trends by now…ever-lighter, brightly blocked colors, more high tech materials. A few more things you need to know to sell outerwear include: understanding what “body mapping” is and how it is used in hybrid jackets; being aware of contemporary cuts with articulated joints, longer back sides, and shaped and looped cuffs; how waterproof-breathable membranes work, the difference between two- and three-layer membranes, and how outer and lining materials affect the weight, durability and breathability of these membranes; and the variety of manufacturers out there and how they cater to different end users. Following is a hands-on look at next-generation outerwear, and some of the key innovations driving the supply side. And while we couldn’t cover everyone out there, this sampling should give you a good idea of the range, depth and breath of what you’ll see for next winter. Also included here is an SGB exclusive: conversations with the actual designers from around the world that stand behind the innovations (see page 70). We pinned down some of the best and brightest in the apparel category and they answered our questions…and we hope you take something new away from this process. Adidas Outdoors Ever stylish Adidas Outdoors presents its new Terrex series with four pieces in the line. The hooded Terrex Ndosphere Jacket features full stretch, breathable partial-Cocona lining and Primaloft insulation, lending a combination of fleece feel with compressibility and insulated warmth, MSRP $195; available in men's and women's. The Advanced Jacket has adidas’ newest, most rugged and breathable GTX fabric to date, GTX Pro New Gen. A face mask with ventilated material tucks out of the way when not in use. It has waterproof zippers and reflective hits and the feel of an active shell only more durable, MSRP $550, men's only. The Terrex Skyclimb insulated jacket features a Primaloft front and combines performance fabrics for key heat areas with four-way stretch softshell for enhanced freedom of movement, MSRP $130 men's and women's. And the Terrex Icefeather Pant also with new GTX Pro New Generation: up to 28 percent more breathable, durable, wind and waterproof. It has full-length water resistant Vislon side zips, detachable braces and built in gaiters, MSRP $395 men's only.
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ADIDAS
BERGANS OF NORWAY
INSULATED Terrex Skyclimb JACKET
Lifjell Anorak
Hodlekve Shell and Pants
Terrex Ndosphere JACKET
Terrex Icefeather Pant
Bergans of Norway Bergans continues to build its brand in the U.S. and makes several new introductions for Fall 2013. First is the Hodlekve Shell and Pants: tough, stylish technical freeride clothing developed with input from Team Bergans’ professional freeriders, made of premium 3-layer Dermizax NX, a supple, four-way stretch, waterproof, windproof and breathable membrane, laser cut with welded seams and Recco reflectors. The Hodlekve line has a baggy fit and oversized pockets. The Jacket features unique diagonal vent zips running from under the arms to the back for easier access when carrying a pack and for maximum ventilation. Pants feature belt loops, YKK Aquaguard inner-thigh zips and a shortened length at the back leg for hiking. Available in men's and women's, MSRP $499 jacket, $389 pants. The new Lifjell Anorak offers a patent-pending design for any big day of skiing or hiking. Anorak's are known for their wind blocking ability, large horizontal chest pocket, and high front collar and hood, but are also known for
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Cecilie Wool Hoodie
being difficult to put on. Bergans solved this with, in addition to the traditional 3/4 gusseted front zip, they added a full-length 2-way, YKK zip running from the left cheek down the side of the Anorak so it opens as a jacket. The Lifjell is made of 3-layer Bergans Element Active for windproof, waterproof and breathable comfort, MSRP $349. Designed for women by Team Bergans’ mountaineer and polar explorer Cecilie Skog, the Cecilie Jacket provides all-weather performance with 3-layer Dermizax stretch, while long sleeves, tailored cuffs and articulated elbows are perfect for climbing, and a stylish functional design allows for ventilation and ease of movement, MSRP $399. Matching Cecilie Pants are lightweight technical pants for any outdoor excursion featuring full-length ventilation leg zips and reinforced leg panels, MSRP $379. The Cecilie Light Insulated Anorak can be used alone or under a shell. Its PrimaLoft One insulates well, even when wet, and the Pertex Quantum outer fabric is wind and water resistant, packing down into a small integrated compression pocket, MSRP $199. The technical Cecilie Wool Hoodie is for skiing, climbing, hiking or around town. Its soft wool/poly mix resists mildew and is warmer than other fabrics when wet, MSRP $199.
COLUMBIA
Millennium Flash
Columbia Columbia is not only taking design back to its roots, but reaching deeper into style and cut for Fall 2013. The company will continue to push its proprietary Omni-Heat reflective alongside its other fabric innovations through next winter. Columbia has a number of new pieces for frontside and lifestyle, as well as more aggressive alpine and backcountry offerings featuring breathable Omni-Wick technology coupled with Omni-Tech, for a total of 13 new pieces available to retailers. OutDry will still be featured prominently in gloves and footwear. Of particular note is the Millennium Flash Jacket (available insulated and shell-only), Alpine Stunner Jacket and Millennium Blur Pant, featuring all of the above mentioned technologies endowed with contemporary freestyle style and alpine features. The Zonafied Softshell and Triple Trail III Shell and Pant are also both innovative and versatile on-mountain pieces with side-country functionality. The new Shimmer Flash Jacket in men’s and women’s will make a stylish, versatile layering piece or cold weather jacket, with Columbia’s proprietary puffy filling and Omni-Heat Reflective lining. Dynafit Trusted ski, boot and binding manufacturer Dynafit has been designing and manufacturing clothing since 2009 and their founding philosophy - lightweight, speed, technology and performance - is at the core of each design and cut, with partnerships including GoreTex, Primaloft and now DownTek. This winter Dynafit announces the Vulcan and Cho Oyu insulated jackets in addition to its Freeride collection of threeway GTX jackets and pants. Both pieces incorporate an athletic fit, body mapping, articulated construction and an unmatched weight reduction plan. The Cho Oyu Jacket DYNAFIT
Shimmer Flash Jacket
Millennium Blur Pant
Cho Oyu
Vulcan Down Jacket
Triple Trail III Shell
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is a lightweight 750-fill down jacket offering exceptional warmth and technical details. The down is treated with DownTek for water-repellent, anti-bacterial loft. The outer is Pertex Quantum; it also features helmet compatible hood with one-hand adjustment, four-wall down chamber and stow pocket, MSRP $300. The Vulcan Down Jacket is also made from water-repellent DownTek and Pertex Quantum, folds up small and is stowed in an integrated compartment. Stretch inserts at the sides ensure optimal freedom of movement, MSRP $240.
ISIS
Carlotta
Eider From Euro high alpine specialist Eider comes the new Cross-Over Collection - jackets with an urban-friendly look with technical fabrics/membranes and removable ski features. The Shibuya is unique in this collection with brushed wool, 700-fill down and a removable powder skirt. The Whymper Jacket is another innovative jacket that provides unbelievable warmth by combining Polartec Neoshell and the new Polartec Alpha. It pairs the most breathable shell with the most breathable insulation, ideal for backcountry skiers, MSRP $750. Also in the backcountry/sidecountry family is the Whistler with Boulder-based Cocona, known for its natural breathability. Full ski features include removable powder skirt, oversized goggle pocket with lens wipe, lycra cuffs and large underarm vents. Light insulation and stretch fabric represents the best of technical fabrics for versatile performance, MSRP $450. EIDER Whymper JACKET
Whistler
Luce Down Jacket
Isis Among the Fall 2013 pieces from women’s innovator Isis is a durable yet soft, waterproof-breathable hardshell designed for active, outdoor lifestyle - the Alta 3L Jacket. With a PU dot lamination instead of a straight PU film lam, the Alta 3L boasts a 20k/20k waterproof/breathable rating and double collar construction with magnetic snap closure and a water-repellant zipper with storm flap, MSRP $249. Also available is the Alta 3L Pant, with scuff guards, full-length side zips and articulated knees, MSRP $199. Also check out the
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Carlotta Jacket, a breathable warm outer layer ideal for bluebird days. Featuring a four-way stretch poly shell bonded to a microfleece liner, the Carlotta has performance and comfort during cold-weather activities. Internal sleeve gaiters with thumbholes provide warmth and a perfect fit while a DWR finish sheds light rain and snow, MSRP $149. The Carlotta Pant ($129), Dress ($149) and Skirt ($99) are also available. The new Lithe Insulated Vest is versatile as an outer layer on cool days or as a layering piece under a shell. A high collar, elastic cuffs and drawcord hem seal out weather while 100 percent PrimaLoft Sport insulation stays warm in wet or dry conditions and a DWR finish sheds light rain and snow. Two zippered hand-pockets keep hands warm while
Overheating is underperforming. So now there’s Polartec® Alpha,® the first-ever breathable puffy fabric. It allows a free exchange of air, so when you’re active you stay warm, dry and comfortable. Developed for the U.S. Special Forces and now available for outdoor enthusiasts, it takes protection, performance and you to a whole new place. Discover more at POLARTEC.COM Polartec ® and Polartec ® Alpha® are registered trademarks of Polartec, LLC. ©Polartec 2013
SPORTSONESOURCE.COM
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LA SPORTIVA
Siren Hoody
Zoid Jacket
a internal chest pocket offers storage, MSRP $139. In the Adventure Snow Series is the light, compressible and warm Luce Down Jacket, ready to work as an outer layer or a layering piece with 800-fill hydrophobic DriDown. Packable into its own pocket, it will keep you warm between backcountry laps or on cool weather hikes. Again a high collar, elastic cuffs and drawcord hem keep cold air out, MSRP $215. La Sportiva The first big trend for mountaineering specialist La Sportiva is a move to brand name fabrics, specifically Polartec fleece. The second trend is creating pieces from multiple types of fabrics (body mapping) depending on the need and the place of the garment. For example, the men's Primus Hoody has 80 grams of Primaloft in the body for insulation and Polartec PowerDry in the arms for movement. It also features integrated thumbholes and an iPod management system, MSRP $189. Also for men is the D-Lux Jacket - a lightweight wind and water resistant jacket that's great as an emergency or summit layer. It features laser-cut ventilation under the arms for breathability and an integrated stow pocket, at LA SPORTIVA
only 238 grams, MSRP $119. The Zoid Jacket has 700-fill, 100 percent Euro white goose down, is DWR coated, with a micro-fleece lined chin, MSRP $229. For women comes the Vega Pullover, a mid-layer made from Polartec PowerDry, stretchy with a quarter-zip neck, MSRP $119. The Siren Hoody is the women's version of Primus Hoody. The hybrid body is windproof and warm while arms provide freedom of movement and the hood incorporates a neoprene visor to keep it in place, MSRP $189. Mammut Mammut introduces new pieces in the Eiger Extreme Collection for Fall/Winter 2013/14. The Eigerjoch Light Jacket, MSRP $300 for men, is the highlight piece and is breathable, lightweight and fast drying with Polartec Alpha insulation for intensive stop-and-go activities and extreme compressibility. It can be worn as a mid-layer or outer-layer as an alternative to a soft shell, and features water-resistant wind-blocking Pertex Quantum and freedom of movement thanks to Powerstretch inserts on the side and back. High-reach sleeves with thumb loops MAMMUT
Primus Hoody
D-Lux Jacket
Eigerjoch Light Jacket
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MAMMUT Meron Jacket Vermont Jacket
are designed to accommodate climbing movements. The Nordwand Pro Jacket, MSRP $750 for men, is now more robust and abrasion-resistant with 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro for extreme use in high terrain. In Alpine is the new Meron Jacket, MSRP $549 for men, also with the latest membrane generation of Gore-Tex. In comparison to it's predecessors, the Meron jacket Vermont Pant offers up to 28 percent more breathability while still providing the same reliable and lasting resistance to water and wind. With a YKK Vislon zipper, two-way underarm ventilation and large-volume pockets, the result is durability and greater comfort in varying conditions for professional mountaineers and enthusiasts. The men’s Vermont Jacket, MSRP $549, is Mammut’s highest-quality allmountain/all-terrain ski and snowboarding jacket, featuring a soft elastic DRYtech Premium outer, with insulation on the body and in the arms, as well as many practical pockets and a modern design with two-colored splash-proof zippers. The Vermont Pant, MSRP $349, has an integrated waistband adjustment system, two-way zip and elastic snow gaiters. The Men’s Bormio Jacket, MSRP $349, and Pant, MSRP $249, are fashionable, soft and feature Mammut's DRYtech two-layer outer fabric and Ajungilak OTI Element filling on both the Jacket and Pant. It’s a tailored-fit ski jacket with padding on the body and sleeves and a helmet-compatible hood, pre-shaped sleeves with Velcro cuffs and two-way underarm zips for ventilation.
with laminated wire brim, exposed water-resistant front zipper, chest pockets, pit zips, powder skirt, goggle pocket, DriClime lined collar, draw cord hem and more, MSRP $385. The Quasar Hoody, MSRP $295, 900-fill down jacket is an addition to Marmot’s fleet of down puffies, fortifying nearly 40 years of leading down and insulated jacket construction. It’s finished with durable, wet-polished Pertex Quantum fabric. The new Isotherm Hoody, MSRP $225, also available in women’s, is constructed with Polartec Alpha insulation throughout the entire garment. With a 20-denier Pertex Quantum face fabric and softshell reinforcements on the shoulders, this insulated jacket is ideal for backcountry ski-touring and mountaineering. The new Women’s Moonshot Jacket, MSRP $290, ski shell is constructed with time-tested Marmot MemBrain MARMOT Project Alpha Jacket
Big Mountain Jacket
Quasar Hoody
Marmot Introducing more classics to its tech-forward assortment, the new Marmot ProjectAlpha Jacket, MSRP $225, is the industry stalwart’s most exciting hybrid jacket in years, with cutting-edge Polartec Alpha insulation throughout the body, Polartec PowerStretch Pro on the sleeves and Polartec PowerDri on the side panels - tailored for athletic performance in cold temperatures. Unlike conventional synthetic insulations, Alpha is a knit material that offers excellent stability and superior durability without the need for scrims or tightly woven fiber-proof lining fabrics, which means lighter weights, superior wicking, therefore greater use latitude. . The Big Mountain Jacket is a lightweight fully featured jacket with Marmot’s new FusionDri fabric (introduced Spring 2013) - an exceptionally waterproof/breathable fabric (50,000mm) that improves performance and comfort during high-aerobic output. It features an attached adjustable hood
Isotherm Hoody Moonshot Jacket
MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR
waterproof/breathable fabric, lightly insulated with Marmot’s proprietary Thermal R insulation. The Moonshot is offered in several attractive color-ways, each with stylish asymmetrical color blocking. Millet The Trilogy DownTek Jacket, MSRP $300, is a part of Millet’s new tech story for Fall/Winter 2013 and its limited edition Trilogy series - four pieces featuring high-performance designs, using the best fabrics and insulation available. The collection was inspired by Eric Escoffier’s achievement of soloing the north faces of the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grandes Jorasses in the winter of 1985: a trilogy that revolutionized alpinism and is synonymous with the Millet spirit. Features include ultralight thermal protection for mountaineering in extreme conditions, integral hood, Pertex Quantum ultralight outMILLET er, 700-fill DownTek water resistant down, two zipped handwarmer pockets and Trilogy DownTek one zipped inside pocket Jacket that converts into compression bag. A brand like Millet, who vigorously researches materials and has very high standards, is a great endorsement for DownTek. Also notable is the cut/ construction: it’s hard to find a jacket this warm that doesn’t feel like a hot air balloon. The Trilogy DownTek is fitted closer to the body with a longer cut in the back, and is relatively thin so you can move freely. This is a technical jacket for high altitude mountaineering, but the bright red/blue color combo is like viva la France meets retro-cool, and the vintage Millet logo on the shoulder of each piece is the perfect finishing touch. Mountain Hardwear Mountain Hardwear is coming out swinging for Fall 2013 with the Seraction series, the Mixaction jacket, Snowtastic series, and more. Pro level performance in an elite mixed rock-and-ice climbing jacket defines the Seraction Jacket
Seraction Jacket
Snowtastic 3L Jacket
Mixaction Jacket
Compulsion 3L Jacket
and Pant. Designed in collaboration with climbers Tim Emmett and Dawn Glanc, the Seraction Jacket’s Dry.Q Elite waterproof technology starts expelling excess heat and vapor immediately for breathability during rigorous climbs. Stretch panels across the back and hood allow maximum mobility. Easy-slide, waterrepellant Aquaguard Vislon center front zips and mini core vents provide customizable airflow. The chest pockets are set high for easy access while wearing a harness and the helmet-compatible hood with singlepull adjustment system tops it off. Pants feature stretch leg gusset and seat for mobility, full-length outer leg zip and quarter-zip hem gusset for easy changes, and an extra-long kick patch for better protection from crampons. The Mixaction Jacket features stretch softshell with strategically placed hardshell protection. Lightweight stretch fabric across the body and under the arms won’t slow you down when reaching for the next hold, and Dry.Q Elite waterproofing technology across the shoulders, arms and hood keeps off the elements while breathing instantly. The Snowtastic 3L Jacket is the ultimate women’s softshell for skiing beyond the ropes, thanks to the unbeatable waterproof-breathable fabric packed in the comfort of a softshell and a soft fleece backing that slides on easily over layers. It features Aquaguard Vislon center front-zip, articulated slant-cut butter Snowtastic Pant
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er partnered with PrimaLoft for the 2013/14 season, insulating select jackets with synthetic, lightweight 60-gram PrimaLoft Sport. The Speed features full seam-sealing and DriCore breathable taffeta lining for thermal regulation. The Cocona Shell Pant is a 100 percent Cocona mechanical stretch shell boasting a 20K/35K waterproof-breathable rating, designed with Control Zone Ventilation. It is fully seam-sealed, snap-to-jacket compatible, with Ski Contour articulated knees and RECCO rescue reflector. As a part of Obermeyer’s Women’s Alt collection, the Dylan Jacket allows a relaxed, longer fit and technical features with a combination of three streetwearinspired fabrics to create a mix of textiles with a unique aesthetic: Pinstripe, a waterproof-breathable Herringbone; SnowSilk, a polyester Satin with waterproof-breathable laminate; and Xdye. The Dylan has the look of a vest over a jacket, insulated with ComfortMax and with CZV, Ski Contour and Skier Critical seam sealing. The Delia has a street-inspired look without sacrificing technical features, relaxed fit and updated design for 2013/14. The pant uses 10Kmm waterproof/10K breathable fabrics, has CZV, seam sealing and Ski Contour. Fabrics range from Pinstripe, Unity and Xdye based on colorway. YKK Metaluxe zippers are placed thoughtfully for design and function. The Penelope is Obermeyer Outstanding quality, warmth and style designed with a longer, tailored silhouette and a faux fur trim around the hood. continues next Fall from Obermeyer. The jacket remains technical with SnowSilk10K waterproof/breathable fabric, A part of its new Sickbird collection, Thermore EcoDown insulation and a contoured fit. the Oxnard Jacket is a combination of quality design and functional ap- Outdoor Research titude, with a mix of colors inspired For Outdoor Research, Fall 2013 means more technical apparel using innovative by the natural environment and materials and designs, continued evolution in technical sportswear with pieces plenty of on-snow features. Ober- that look casual for everyday use but have underlying technical performance, meyer’s four-way Genesis Stretch and continued broadening of technical and lifestyle offerings in hats and gloves. allows for ample movement and a In technical apparel, check out the Floodlight Jacket, MSRP $375, men’s and 20K/35K+ waterproof-breath- women’s specific fits, when the goal is minimizing layers while ensuring warmth able rating. The Oxnard can and dryness. It melds 800-fill down with ultralight, packable Pertex Shield fabric, be snapped in to the men’s resulting in a lightweight, compressible, waterproof puffy that minimizes weight Batten Pant. Thinsulate in- and bulk. It uses an interior lining that is directly bonded to the waterproofsulation and DriCore body breathable outer shell fabric, creating channels for the down insulation. Details mapping regulate temps. Bat- include an adjustable wire-brimmed hood, large handwarmer pockets, an ten is a freeride fit pant with exterior napoleon pocket and internal Shove-It pockets. The Maximus Jacket, Genesis Stretch fabric, CZV MSRP $495, is fully redesigned for Fall 2013 using new Gore-Tex Pro Shell (Control Zone Ventilation) and fabric (28 percent more breathable than its predecessor with the same level Skier Critical seam sealing. The of waterproof protection). This is Outdoor Research’s bomber 70-denier shell pant comes in five organically for the day-in, day-out alpinist who needs durability. Stretch Gore-Tex panels inspired colorways with colored are hybrid-mapped into key areas for mobility. Details include Halo Hood construction (which seals out the elements more effectively than a standard bonded zippers. The Speed Jacket in Ober- hood), a pass-through chest pocket, and double-sliding hem-to-pit TorsoFlo meyer’s Velocity collection is zippers for easy ventilation. The new Valhalla Hoody, MSRP $350, men’s and the apex of snowsports per- women’s specific fits, employs Gore Windstopper X-Fast fabric for superb formance. With 20K/35K+ breathability with excellent weather protection for backcountry skiers. The waterproof-breathable rating, it fea- design uses more of a sidecountry-styled cut, rather than the trim fit found tures Obermeyer’s Amplified Breath- in most backcountry-ski apparel. The X-Fast fabric offers great stretch and ability weaving Cocona into the fabric is quiet for touring. Details include a standup collar, an integrated hood for of the shell and lining to accelerate use without a helmet, a touch-compatible media pocket, taped seams on moisture transfer and breathability. To the jacket’s upper, a pass-through chest pocket, and hem-to-pit TorsoFlo complement this technology, Obermey- zippers. The Speedstar Jacket, MSRP $395, was created for high-exertion
jersey cuffs for mobility while wearing gloves, snap-in compatibility with corresponding pant, and removable, adjustable stretch powder skirt. Snowtastic Pant features Dry.Q Elite technology, ultra-soft fleece backing, removable herringbone suspenders, and three-quarter length zip thigh vents. The Compulsion 3L Jacket will be the new men’s shell for skiing outside the ropes, featuring soft face fabric and Dry.Q Elite waterproof-breathability. It features dualpurpose, pack-compatible zip pockets that double as core vents; easy-slide, water-repellant front zip; articulated, slant-cut cuffs and removable stretch powder skirt. Pants feature removable bib with adjustable suspenders; interior zip thigh vents and zip thigh pockets.
OBERMEYER PENELOPE
OUTDOOR RESEARCH
to redesign the collection with more technical features and enhanced active comfort. Patterning and fit have been improved and chin flaps and zippers have been updated. Sonic/stitch seam construction has been integrated into all R4, R3 and R2 styles, and hybridized materials are used on all Regulator garments except for the R4.
Valhalla Hoody
PATAGONIA
Floodlight Jacket
Maximus Jacket
activity in cold, dry climates with hybrid-mapping, highly breathable Polartec PowerShield 02 with warm PowerShield High Loft. PowerShield 02 is used in the back, under the arms, and low on the front of the jacket for its ability to block wind yet transport moisture. High Loft, which provides warmth more akin to a traditional puffy that also wicks exceptionally well, is used in the front, upper arms and shoulders. An adjustable hood with a moldable brim, two-way pit zips and dual zippered napoleon pockets are among the finer points. Patagonia For Fall 2013 Alpine, Patagonia continues to fine-tune its shell collection, insuring the company offers a shell that delivers in every imaginable condition. An updated Gore-Tex Pro Shell fabric in the Super Alpine and Super Pluma Jackets offers the same unsurpassed protection with better breathability. Other key products include the new Knifeblade Jacket and Pants. The iconic Nano Puff and Regulator Technical Fleece collections have both been updated for Fall 2013. Patagonia defined the lightweight synthetic insulation market with the introduction of the Nano Puff Pullover in 2009, and for Fall 2013, the company reaffirms its commitment and technical leadership in this category with improved fit, aesthetic and active comfort. Fit is now longer and narrower, with special consideration made to women's fit. The iconic brick quilted pattern has been updated and is now used across the women's line. Details such as threading, storm flaps and zippers have been updated and improved resulting in a best-in-class garment and the focus for Fall 2013 was
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Super Alpine
Super Pluma JACKET Knifeblade Jacket
Nano Puff
R2 JACKET
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SIERRA DESIGNS
Salomon Not shying away from Salomon’s tradition of bringing new technology to market, the Quest Motion Fit Jacket, MSRP $450, and Pant, MSRP $325, bring engineering, science and art together for a progressive concept in outerwear. Salomon Motion Fit is an approach to pattern engineering and tailoring an articulated fit while enabling unrestricted freedom of movement. The Quest features new design and tailoring in the neck and upper spine - with more volume and extended fabric your shoulders and neck have more movement and comfort when planting poles, staying low and for cross-body reaches. With extra volume in the shoulder blades, gussets under the arms allow for unrestricted arm movement without affecting the jacket’s position or overall comfort. Quest Motion Fit Pants feature an extra panel to maintain coverage when crouched, aggressive turning, hiking and bent-over buckling of boots, etc. With more material built into the outer thigh region, it allows legs to flex in a crouched position, accommodate for big hiking steps or a low turn. Engineered to move with you, it remains flattering and fits properly when standing. The jacket has a technical 3L design and is the perfect shell for a bluebird powder day. ClimaPro Storm 3L is 20K/20K waterproof but still highly breathable. It features taped seams, removable stretch powderskirt, hood with helmet volume and 3D adjustment, lycra cuffs with thumb loop, left arm lift pass pocket, storm pocket, inner stash pocket, hand pockets, chest pocket and air vent system. The Pant is also a technical 3L freeski pant and features external airvents with mesh backing, removable bibs, storm pocket, two hand zippered hand pockets and waist adjustment. SOLOMON Quest Motion Fit Jacket
Cirro Jacket
Stratus Jacket
Cirro VEST & SKIRT
Sierra Designs New for Fall 2013 is Sierra Designs’ Cirro insulated collection of Jacket, Vest, and Skirt. Designed for active winter use, the men’s and women’s Cirro Jacket, MSRP $199, is a lightweight hybrid piece insulated with 600-fill DriDown in the body and tops of the sleeves. A stretch knit gusset on the sides and under the arms increases comfort and mobility. DriDown stays lofty and warm whether you’re working up a sweat or the snow starts to fly. These hybrids are lightweight and cut for backcountry activity. The women’s only CirroVest, MSRP $149 and Cirro Skirt, MSRP $99, round out the collection. Introduced this season from Sierra Designs was the Cloud Layering System, and the Stratus Jacket will replace the Cloud Puffy for Fall 2013. A warmer option for cooler weather, the Stratus Jacket, MSRP $249 at 12 ounces, is insulated with 800-fill DriDown hydrophobic insulation for superior performance. As part of the Cloud Layering System, this jacket is intended to help you stay warm when you stop for lunch or to set up camp. With layers designed around the core concepts of Go, Rain, and Stop, this system will keep you warm, dry and protected in any backcountry situation and is intended to improve upon the traditional waterproof-breathable membrane jacket concept. The North Face Still focusing on athlete-driven innovation with an eye toward heritage, The North Face is introducing several new technologies to shape the outerwear landscape. Developed in partnership with PrimaLoft, ThermoBall is a revolution in insulation technology whereby small, round synthetic-fiber clusters mimic down clusters, trapping heat within small air pockets. The ThermoBall Full Zip Jacket, MSRP men's and women’s $199, features nylon bluesign-approved fabric and is designed to provide phenomenal warmth in cold and wet conditions with down-like compressibility. The North Face is also introducing ProDown - its new, proprietary natural down insulation enhanced with a hydrophobic finish that keeps down plumes from becoming saturated with moisture and losing insulation value, improving its performance and versatility in a wider range of weather. The Supernatural Jacket, MSRP $449,
THE NORTH FACE
ThermoBall Full Zip Jacket
Free Thinker PANT
men’s and women’s, is its most technically advanced, waterproofbreathable alpine jacket yet, with Gore-Tex Pro 3L and Taslan with woven ripstop backer. Features include an active fit, sealed seams, equipment-specific pockets including innovative dry/warm cell phone pocket and radio loop, adjustable hood, pit vents, wrist pocket, thumb-loop cuffs, internal stretch pockets and powder skirt with unique clip integration. The Free Thinker Pant, MSRP $459 men’s and women’s, has the same bomber construction/materials and a highly functional removable front bib panel, reinforced cuffs and stretch gaiter, hand pockets and vents. QUIKSILVER From Quiksilver’s new technical apparel collection is the Driver Seat Jacket: a 5k two- layer fully taped jacket with pinstripe taffeta lining, stowaway hood, venting at back yolk, hand warmer pockets and back map pocket. Also check out the Travis Rice First Class 2L Gore-Tex Jacket featuring kidney warmers (insulated pods), lycra thumb gaiters, media pocket, reflective logo print, fully taped seams, two-way adjustable hood and more. The Still Snowing 2L Gore-Tex Pant from the Premium Black Collection features zip bottom leg gussets, durable hem reinforcement, and taffeta lining w/brushed tricot seat and knees. The pictured colorway is from an artist collaboration with Alaskan commercial fisherman and photographer Corey Arnold. ■ quicksilver
Supernatural Jacket
Free Thinker Jacket
features Pertex Quantum 100 percent nylon ripstop fabric and the highest fill down available in the world (950-fill goose down), created for mountaineering and alpine climbing where weight and durability are paramount. Also new is Z Loft technology, utilizing PrimaLoft One synthetic insulation and a unique Z-baffle construction to maximize warmth without adding weight or bulk. Strips of insulation are formed into semi-circles and integrated into Z-baffle construction, eliminating the holes created by conventional baffle construction that stitches through the jacket and insulation. The Zephyrus Pro Hoodie, MSRP $299, is made with 60g PrimaLoft One insulation and nylon Pertex Endurance fabric, resulting in a technical layering hoodie designed with proprietary ZLoft baffle construction. Hood and shoulders have a polyurethane (PU) coating to increase water resistance. And finally from The North Face comes the Steep Series backcountry/ big mountain skiing and snowboarding line, designed and developed with big-mountain athletes Xavier de Le Rue, Lucas Debari, DCP, Sage Cattabriga-Alosa and Ian McIntosh, available in two and three-layer Gore Tex Pro to hit two different price points. The Free Thinker Jacket, MSRP $599
Driver Seat Jacket
Still Snowing 2L Gore-Tex Pant
Travis Rice First Class 2L Gore-Tex Jacket
How To Sell
Outerwear Supply Chain Sales Strategy By Aaron H. Bible
M
ary Mancini, apparel merchandise manager for Colorado Ski & Golf and Boulder Ski Deals, buys for six stores on Colorado’s Front Range. “As a specialty retailer committed to giving our guests the experience of a lifetime, it is critical for our salespeople to have confidence in the product we sell. Every piece of ski and snowboard outerwear we carry in our stores is built for the sport and the conditions guests will experience on the hill,” Mancini said. “That being said, guest needs vary, and so do the features and benefits of the products. In other words, all of our garments are made with waterproof fabric. The degree of waterproofness will vary between products and price points.” “The same is true with insulations, varying depending on the needs of our guests,” Mancini explained. “Once we have assured our salespeople of this basic premise, we begin a series of clinics to give our people an intimate knowledge of how the product works and how it should fit. We start with an ‘in house’ clinic given by myself and key people within our company to go over the basics and general information that will hold true regardless of brand. Next, all of our key vendors schedule individual clinics in all six stores to give in-depth information regarding their products.” It’s no different for online customer sales and service reps. “At Skis.com we stress the need to first evaluate the customer by asking the right questions. Getting these answers will narrow
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down what type of jacket or pant they need to get in to so that we can ultimately find the perfect match for each customer,” founder and CEO Steve Kopitz explained. Koptiz’s sales folks are trained to ask the following questions: 1. What type of conditions are you skiing in? 2. Do you get hot or cold easily? 3. Do you plan on sweating up a storm or skiing more casually? 4. What type of fit do you like? 5. Are you going to be carrying a lot of items? “From here, our sales people use the customers’ answers to explain why they would need a specific piece,” Koptiz said. According to Backcountry.com customer service supervisor Wally Phillips, sales people should ask open-ended questions. “These usually help to narrow down the garment that will work best with what the customer is doing,” Phillips said. “Ask: Where will it be used? What is it being used for? How often will it be used? Find out what the customer is looking for when it comes to style vs. fit and price vs. features.” Manufacturers continue to focus on specific innovations to hand down, helping to drive full-priced selling. “An educated sales staff is key to driving sales,” said Scott Kaier, public relations manager for Sierra Designs. Sierra Designs’ sales support includes full-page ads (primarily focused on its proprietary DriDown) in prominent outdoor publications; extensive PR outreach; prominent POP support including oversized hangtags to help draw attention and educate; and in-store clinics educating retail floor staff to make it easier for them to discuss this technology with customers. Kristo Torgersen, alpine product line manager at Patagonia, agrees salespeople need
to stay focused on getting the customer into the right product based on his or her needs. “They should be asking questions to better understand the intended activity, conditions, and performance expectations of the customer, which will enable them to suggest products that will best meet their needs. In this way, the customer will leave with a product they are pleased with, performs as expected, and feeling positive about their shopping experience in the store.” How does Patagonia help retailers accomplish this? “In addition to our sell-in materials, our reps host clinics with major retailers about the materials, technical features and ideal end-use positioning for our product range,” said Torgersen. “In these clinics we focus on quality and performance standards, many times with side-by-side competitor product comparisons.” According to Columbia Sportswear product sales manager for the U.S. Dean Rurak, differentiation through innovation is first and foremost. “The bottom line is, as a brand, to engage the customer,” explained Rurak. “Our job is to draw the interest of the customer, and make it easier for the salesperson to convert the sale.” Rurak also said that Columbia’s fastest growing and largest selling point is specialty retail. “Branded stores help elevate the brand in consumers’ minds,” he said. “But the ultimate goal is to draw the customer in and convert that sale.” Branded stores often serve as a showcase and testing ground for innovative displays and in-store POP efforts. According to Woody Blackford, VP of global innovation at Columbia Sportswear, the company is pursuing a “strategy of innovation” that began Spring 2008 with the launch of it’s Omni-Shade technology, aimed at creating product that is differentiated in the marketplace. Following what Blackford refers to as an “ingredient brand strategy,” the company provides intuitively perceivable benefits to consumers that are not only easy to understand, but easy to see with direct visual feedback, which also draws them to touch and investigate the product. Jim Howard, VP and commercial director for Salomon USA Apparel, believes that Salomon’s continuing commitment to design and innovation in materials is what sets them apart. “For alpine outerwear, we’re driving sales with our ClimaPRO Storm - our 20/20 waterproof breathable fabric that is highly protective and breathable for performance during bad weather including wind, snow and rain,” Howard said. “We’ve been working on how to incorporate this fabric in insulated and non-insulated pieces, and we have the perfect options with the Cadabra Insulated and the Cadabra 2L non-insulated jacket for men.” “Dealers are recognizing Salomon technologies, so it makes it easier for them to talk with customers about what the outerwear does really well. Our design focus is about four themes: progressive, athletic, comfort, and engineering. We build our outerwear to fit a person in different
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levels of activity…our latest pieces are designed in a full-charging position for freeskiers so they are articulated with plenty of room in the elbows, shoulders and knees. Other pieces are designed for hikers who might be moving at more even pace, or urban adventurers who are on more level terrain,” Howard continued. Bergan’s of Norway is also educating salespeople about the company, its design philosophies and materials in order to help them meet customers’ needs. “Bergans has been designing and producing worry-free ski and outdoor gear and apparel since 1908,” said VP of Sales & Marketing Keith Patterson. “With Norway's high latitude there are large seasonal and day-to-day weather variations, so our designers develop products with a mix of various technical fabrics and construction techniques based around the layering philosophy. This allows for greater range in comfort depending on the weather, and results in clothing that can be used year round. From wool base layers, to mid-layers, and even hard and soft-shell outer layers, using super-breathable, non-porous, waterproof membranes such as Toray’s Dermizax NX, and poly-wool mixes such as Pontetorto’s Tecnowool, we combine innovative technology and function with fashionable designs and fits. We are also working with the media on product testing and reviews to further prove the performance of our products, which will drive consumers into retailers’ shops.” “We’re delivering early to our retail partners our Fall/Winter ‘slope-toaprès’ street pieces such as men’s and women’s soft knit sweaters, softshell jackets and our trademark windshirts waterproof/breathable shell shirts made from our ski outerwear shell fabrics,” said Obermeyer’s Robert Yturri, SVP of product and brand management. “Offering our retail partners these early delivery products creates a turnover in sales starting in fall at the first cold snap,
before their shops become fully stocked in winter outerwear.” “We have an image program with action shots, lifestyle shots and product shots that we custom-produce in any size at no charge to our dealers - a great way to spruce up shop walls,” said Linda Rondey, national sales director for Obermeyer. “All Obermeyer sales reps will provide personal shop visits and informative clinics, either formal or informal depending on shop needs. We are producing a shop clinic flyer with tips on how to sell Obermeyer, and we will of course have some fun sales contests for our shops nationwide.” “Carhartt sales associates are trained work-apparel industry experts who stay current with the latest industry trends,” said Steve Carter, VP Sales for Carhartt. “They develop customized orders for their accounts based on the consumer segment the store focuses on. If called for, model stocks are developed for the basic replenishment items the store carries. The Carhartt sales associate is also in a position to develop a retail marketing plan with their accounts that utilizes tools provided by Carhartt to target specific channels of distribution.” “Carhartt is constantly developing innovative new products, like our new Quick Duck outerwear line, all suitable for the targeted consumers of the brand and also to bring new consumers to the brand,” Carter said. “Carhartt products are designed with not only the end user in mind but also the channel of distribution, keeping in mind the price elasticity suitable for the designated channel. Product knowledge, industry knowledge, an eye toward both sell-in and sell-through, a customized approach to product assortment, an understanding of what type of marketing is suitable for a specific account, and the understanding that our sales associates are caretakers of an iconic brand, is what helps a retailer to maximize his or her investment with the Carhartt brand.” ■
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B AC k
R O O M
C o n v e rsatio n s By Aaron H. Bible
By Aaron H. Bible
D
esigners are a special breed of thinkers. Tasked with creating unique, functional, current, yet timeless solutions to problems; designers have a job that most envy but that few can emulate. In the words of renowned designer Charles Eames, “Design is a plan for arranging elements in such a way as best to accomplish a particular purpose,� and nowhere is this more apropos than in outdoor apparel. Scattered around the world in some of the most enviable locales, outdoor sports and lifestyle designers are working with fashion, engineering and textile companies to create the garments that keep us warm and dry. Many of them are pioneers in the field, working directly with suppliers and manufacturers to engineer fabrics and laminates that will be mass-produced for consumers. These garments are not only intended as statements of each of our own unique style of play, whether it be skiing, alpine climbing, or some other pursuit, but also to keep us warm and dry for more than just one season. With backgrounds ranging from furniture design to chemistry, the following is a glimpse into the minds of some of the outdoor world’s greatest designers and product managers. We certainly learned something from each of them; hope you do too.
70 JANUARY 2013
What trends, such as “lighter and faster,” are influencing next season’s designs? Textile boundaries are being pushed now with increased durability. We are realizing some milestones with how we can also also push the boundaries of design. Minute changes in laminate weight or a DWR spec can lead you down paths not possible 10 years ago. Another trend is to realize lifestyle silhouettes in technical fabrications: garments that have the look and feel of your favorite cotton flannel but enjoy significantly increased weather resistance. One interesting trend is waterproof down.
Anybody worth their salt in this industry remembers the failed seams, delaminated fabrics and dodgy pilling specs for garments that thankfully never made it to market. In product development, our failures are often recalled more vividly than “Gear of the Year” awards. One advantage of being privately owned by an elite mountain athlete is that you always feel supported to make the right call regardless of the bottom line.
How much can you learn from a failed product?
How has the advancement of gender-specific garments influenced
It has stepped up expectations across the board. There is so much competition for the female consumer that when you achieve success with a women’s product, you likely have had to work harder to attain that success. The female consumer is more discerning with their purchasing dollars. Fit is such a huge part of the equation for women that it has also raised the bar for men. product development?
Jason Duncan
Product Manager Men’s and Women’s Technical Sportswear / Outdoor Research Jason Duncan has a BS in Chemistry and Mathematics from McGill University and worked as a chemist and chemistry instructor before a stint at Mountain Equipment Co-Op as a merchandiser in hardgoods and apparel. When developing a new product, where do you look for inspiration? More a question of whom rather than where: our Outdoor Research athletes and adventurers, a group of folks we call the “Relentless Adventurers,” are incredibly passionate. A civil discussion about whether to drop the internal gaiters from a backcountry ski pant can get everyone on the boil. What types of market research do you conduct on your way to a final product? Everyone is doing their homework to consolidate the abundance of market data available. As a growing apparel brand, we must be very diligent about where the commercial activity is trending. However, historical barometers do not necessarily indicate future opportunities. We are always looking for a new angle that may not translate to immediate commercial recognition, but that core people in our sports will really appreciate and that will grow the brand’s reputation.
How important is cross-functionality when considering new products? We design for a specific end use, often for a specific temperature range or altitude. OR has always been an innovator when it comes to hybrid garments, often using two or three shell fabrics within a single garment, trying to optimize the functionality of the fabric, never compromising on the design. The reality is you cannot tell a skimountaineer that the garments they use every day were intended for ice or alpine climbing. So some amount of cross-functionality is inherent, as long as it doesn’t take away functionality from the original intended user. Does the physical location of a design center affect results or credibility? Two floors below my desk is a fully functioning Gore-approved
manufacturing facility. We bang out protos in hours, not days. Its value cannot be over-stated.
What product has stood the test of time? Gore-Tex has proved resilient. They could have coasted on reputation alone but they have remained active to retain their market position. Active Shell convinced us they were still innovators in our industry; and their efforts on sustainability are no small achievement.
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Nikole Rock
Director of Design & Development ISIS Nikole Rock earned her degree in furniture design with 14 years experience in softgood and hardgood design and development for brands like Cutter & Buck, REI, Hincapie Sportswear and now Isis. When developing a new product, where do you look for
They come from just about every facet of life. I’m passionate about furniture design so I always have a stack of influencers from architectural and structural trends. Textures and colors catch my eye everywhere I go. It could be a clever surface treatment on a fabric, or lines on a rock, or the way you look up a hillside and see layer after layer of green shades. Inspiration is everywhere.
inspiration for your designs?
What types of market research do you conduct on your way to a final product? When we plan a new season we look at product from a market position as much as from a design point of view. The merchandising team spends a lot of time looking for market ‘sweet spots’ and valid positions and price points, while the Design team brings new innovations or fabrications and design details. It’s good to get out into the market place and see what’s happening in apparel on both coasts as well as Europe and pay attention to what inspires people.
uct development? With the emergence of gender specific brands, product point of view and details have evolved considerably. Speaking specifically to the women’s market, it’s nice to be able to focus on details and drivers that we as women look for and expect in a product. It’s a good challenge that puts designers in a constant state of evaluating everything to get the most out of each product.
What trends, such as “lighter and faster,” are influenc-
How important is cross-functionality when considering new products?
ing next season’s designs? At Isis we talk a lot about doing
Essential. I can’t get away with one garment for one thing anymore. I need to build collections that make sense as collections with their intended end use, that stand on their own as unique items and that can be pulled into companion collections flawlessly. Top that off with technical features that bridge the gap to fashion-forward details and you have the current state of the Women’s Specific market. It’s something we really focus on and love doing.
more with less. That can mean a jacket that needs to cover the demands of technical end uses while at the same time being just a cool item you can’t resist wearing regardless of technical properties. For Spring/Summer 2014 we designed a lightweight softshell jacket that has denim appeal. Built with features and fabric that will perform with the best of softshells on a hike, it also pushes styling that can take you right into town.
The best lessons learned are usually from what we think of as failures. I’m a big fan of field-testing for that reason. Taking something to failure let’s you understand the limits of your components.
How much can you learn from a failed product?
What are some of the factors that give you confidence a product will succeed? When good design is flowing and partner work groups are with you and genuinely excited with how product is coming together you can feel the vibration of things clicking into place. We do pre-line reviews with key ac-
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counts and weigh in with our rep force as much as possible. When ‘yes’ keeps coming back, you know you’re on to something good. How has the advancement of gender-specific garments influenced prod-
Does the physical location of a design center affect results or credibility?
Location can help to open the mind, but you don’t need to live under the shadow of a mountain to get how to design technical garments. You need to get out there and use what you make, and form a technical design point of view from end use. The things that influence the design aesthetic tend to come from urban influencers so you need to be able to swing back and forth to bridge that gap, but by no means do you need to live in one or the other place to be credible at what you do. You DO need to open up to having good energy, to observing where things are going and putting a better version together. What product has stood the test of time? The Radio Flyer. Talk about a classic de-
sign that is still as cool as it ever was...red and white logo panels, white wall tires, that signature triangle wheel axis and that little scoop in the handle...tasty little details.
Albert Gasser Product Line Manager Salomon
When developing a new product, where do you look for inspiration for your design? We use different sources before we start designing a product. Most of our apparel is technology driven. Our latest technology is Motion Fit, a tailored shape that supports body movements especially for skiing. It is amazing how light the product feels due to an engineered pattern construction. The inspiration for this product came from a brainstorming session with athletes, retailers, designers, developers, R&D guys and PLMs in our lab, and our constant ambition for improvement. What types of market research do you conduct on your way to a final product? We start off analyzing the current sport's practice, the behavior and movements of our athletes, and consumers. Once we are sure to cover their needs we build a retail driven assortment to offer a package around each category and retail channel. Taking historical data into account, as well as competitor analysis and trend research, to build the most wanted products. But we also want to be a reliable partner for our customers and retailers. I enjoy meeting our partners, industry leaders, and exchanging ideas on how we can build successful assortments and product strategies that will help both of us sell our products. What trends, such as “lighter and faster,” are influenc-
The sportswear industry has become obsessed with weight reduction on sportswear products, but weight reduction will not set us apart from competitors. We work on several technologies simultaneously. The biggest influence this season will be the practice of the sports and how movement can be achieved easier. We will have a dedicated “try me” section at our trade shows to convince our buyers about the benefit of these products. ing next season’s designs?
How much can you learn from a failed product?
Personally I learn much more from successful products or best practice studies. If a product fails we analyze the
reasons. There are a lot of ingredients that make a product successful (positioning, product execution, channel placement, price positioning) and sometimes it only takes one ingredient to make a product fail. What are some of the factors that give you confidence a product will
When the first protos arrive and the whole team stands at my desk asking if they can test a specific style, I know we created a best seller. But of course we do a lot of market research before designing a product, and once it comes to development we know quite accurately how successful our products will perform. succeed?
How has the advancement of gender-specific garments influenced product development? There are some physical differences between the genders, which have a lot of influence on how we build our products: support, temperature management, fit execution and design. In our women's line we use much more down than in our men's product. In our design team, we have dedicated women's designer and dedicated men's designer to make sure we do not shrink and pink our men's line. In some lines we even use different PLMs for gender specific products. How important is cross-functionality when considering new products?
Definitely important for some consumer groups. People like to hang out for a beer after skiing, and don’t want to change clothes. Our consumers also like to practice several sports. If they can wear the same functional shirt, jacket or pant for two or more sport categories, it is definitely seen as an advantage. The more we talk about “race” products or models that are used for competitive sports, the less important it is. Does the physical location of a design center affect results or credibility? Of course. Our Headquarters lies in the middle of the French Alps, close to Chamonix, one of the most beautiful spots for outdoor enthusiasts in Europe… a mountain paradise right in front of our office. It is so much easier to attract skilled and passionate employees if they are able to live their dreams whenever they have a free minute, or when the first fresh powder has been announced.
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the piece that did not live up to its name? We only become a stronger consumer-desired brand as we learn from our mistakes and prove to our customers we were listening. What are some of the factors that give you confidence a product will succeed?
Karly Baillargeon
Technical Apparel Designer Quiksilver
It could be a product you have built off of the success of a previous season and just offered it a small facelift, or it could be that "new" product everyone is going to want because it does not exist out in the marketplace yet. Those can be a bit more of a gamble, but we would not be a good brand if we didn't push the envelope for our customers. However, sometimes something as simple as testing a garment and watching it succeed will give us the confidence that our consumers will like it as much as we do.
When developing a new product, where do you look for inspiration for
How has the advancement of gender-specific garments
The process combines both creative innovation and market assessment. We have to be aware of the products that already exist out in the market and where can we find that void to fill. The inspiration begins with the consumer to find out what they feel is missing in their outdoor lifestyles. You will hear almost every designer say, "I get my inspiration from traveling," so I hate to be cliché but it almost always does. You can be in a bike shop and see some piece of rugged hardware and then the next thing you know, you have come up with a piece simulating the idea for a jacket snap or cord lock. It’s exciting to start a new season because I can pull out my millions of photos I have taken over the course of several past months.
influenced product development? The advancement of gender-specific garments has influenced product development from fit to features and technology placement. Males and females each have their own needs when it comes to performance gear, but something that stays consistent are the basic elements of cooling, heating and staying dry.
your designs?
What types of market research do you conduct on your way to a final product? Consumer's bring in a good portion of the information from what sold previous seasons, to small focus groups we conduct amongst ideal target customers. We have to examine not just what is selling but really look at the end price presented to a consumer. Do they feel it is too expensive and how does it compare to the jacket right next to it on the rack? It can be quite a challenge, but once the final product is finished and we begin the testing portion in rigorous outdoor conditions, it makes it all worthwhile…when you know you met a need and gave a product a true purpose to exist. What trends, such as “lighter and faster,” are influencing next season’s designs? The "lighter and faster" trend is a perfect example of a consumer-driven
trend. As we step into using future technologies from other products such as hard good categories, we realize lighter is a lot more convenient allowing us to move faster and travel a whole lot easier. Consumers begin to want this in every aspect of their lives right down to apparel. Fabrics then have become the focus to help meet these new needs. Fabrics are now able to offer durable protection at a much lighter weight making it better to pack and remove some of that uncomfortable bulk while trying to perform exerting activities. The "lighter and faster" trend is truly driving new looks and designs for the upcoming seasons.
Failed products can be a great thing. They can become a catalyst into the next, new greatest idea and technology. Was it the design, the fabric or the purpose of
How much can you learn from a failed product? Any examples?
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How important is cross-functionality when considering new products? Cross-functionality is absolutely key in developing new products. Our consumers want products that perform but also do not want to drain their bank accounts. They are becoming more knowledgeable and savvy on how fabrics perform and how can they get multiple uses out of one piece. This is heavily weighed into our design and development process. Does the physical location of a design center affect results or credibility? Being in the conditions daily and experiencing the sports personally will always give more of a push. Being located in Southern California does provide us a bit of an edge because of the beautiful weather and multitude of sports you can do in any given day. However, every designer's experience helps, especially if they have moved around and traveled a lot, experiencing different lifestyles in different elements. What product has stood the test of time? An item like a good basic 2L hooded all-weather jacket is always an important piece to have in anyone's closet. It’s that go-to piece for layering when there is a bite in the air but you know you will want to pack it away later. It’s easy to travel with, stow away and will always offer you the confidence you will stay dry in case the weather decides to turn on you. My favorite part about a good 2L jacket is that it’s easy to perform in with almost any sport.
Eric Rice
Alpine and Insulation Designer Patagonia Eric Rice has been a designer at Patagonia for 16 years. He enjoys climbing, skiing, biking and lives with his family in Santa Barbara, CA. When developing a new product, where do you look
Most of the time my projects are very pragmatic, which means that the activity is the inspiration. Staying warm and dry on an ice climb in the Canadian Rockies is pretty inspiring to me. for inspiration for your designs?
What types of market research do you conduct on your way to a final product? Keeping in regular contact with product users is key. Not just the highest-end athletes, but also general outdoor users. Knowledge through direct use of the products you're designing for is also key. It's one thing to hear about ice climbing in weather that is so cold that you want to barf because your hands hurt that much, and another to actually experience it. What trends, such as “lighter and faster,” are influ-
The light and fast trend has been around for a while, but we are finally able to design products that are really functional at incredibly light weights. Also, hybrids are becoming more important in the marketplace. We are taking advantage of the mixing of different technologies such as hard and soft shells, and putting them into innovative product design.
encing next season’s designs?
What can you learn from a failed product? We learn tons from failed products. In order to innovate you need to be ready to fail many, many times. What are some of the factors that give you confidence a product will succeed? When we hear consistent feedback that something is working. Many times you will get feedback on a product where 50 percent of the users like it and 50 percent don't. It's when you start getting 90 percent or better that you know you're headed down the right path.
How has the advancement of gender-specific garments influenced product development? The more we can understand the physiological and psychological differences between what men and women want, the better the products will be. How important is cross-functionality when considering new
Cross functionality has always been an important part of Patagonia's design philosophy. Most people don't want to have 10 different jackets for 10 different activities. The mindset of most outdoor enthusiasts is to simplify. The old saying of "the more you know, the less you need" is really true when it comes to outdoors pursuits.
products?
Patagonia's Down Sweater. It is warm, lightweight, has a timeless design aesthetic and is a classic. What product has stood the test of time?
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How much can you learn from a failed product? Any
Before going to production we generally give our products to our athletes for testing. We analyze failed products with the technicians of our quality control department, and try to find out whether it was a design, material or construction issue. Anything that comes back from an extreme use is a very good example: a pant may perform perfectly during a regular ski touring activity, but you can discover the weak points only when you start using it for long periods with a harness and crampons.
examples?
What are some of the factors that give you confidence a product will succeed? If something works perfectly for a full season in extreme conditions or during an expedition on Manaslu…it generally performs perfectly for our customers as well. For the market response, it’s the feedback of our core dealers. If they believe in a product, it generally sells out. How has the advancement of gender-specific garments
Every product we make, from skis to apparel, has to be designed and developed two times for obvious reasons. Statistics demonstrate that ladies pick their gear on the basis of two main factors: look and fit. They not only have different anatomies, but also different tastes and needs. Fortunately in our company we have plenty of girls that are passionate about the sport, and they contribute in giving us great feedback. influenced product development?
Alex Marengo
Apparel and Product Designer Dynafit
How important is cross-functionality when considering new products?
Alex Marengo is Dynafit's head apparel and product designer. He holds a It’s crucial: we are a small team, but each of us has a main Master's in Industrial Design and Product Engineering. focus, even if we continuously discuss and share opinions. When developing a new product, where do you look for inspiration for Results show that effective leaders achieve better developyour design? Our technical design is function driven, therefore most of the ment times, superior products and a higher level of customtime the inspiration comes directly from the empirical evidence on the field… er satisfaction. It’s a good metaphor of what happens on the which in a few words means design it/ride it/improve it. That’s why, to develop mountains as well: you need to trust your partners and each certain kinds of technical products, you need to be totally committed to the member of the group has a different role depending on his sport. For what concerns aesthetic looks, we search for inspiration in fields far or her abilities. away from ours, such as motorcycling, mountain biking or even fashion design. Does the physical location of a design center affect
What types of market research do you conduct on your way to a final
We put quite a lot of emphasis on the feedback we receive from our core dealers that we visit regularly. We obviously conduct a series of store checks all over Europe and North America, on the web, and again, we go backcountry skiing, to see what people are wearing and using out there. One thing I personally love is to talk to people while “undercover,” maybe in a hut, or after a tour and have their opinion about the gear they are using.
product?
results or credibility? It’s not only a matter of credibility, but a matter of inspiration and motivation. I couldn’t imagine a company like us based anywhere else but in the middle of the Dolomites. While writing this I can look out from the window and see the slopes we ski, the trails we ride and the peaks we climb.
In my humble opinion the greatest design achievement (doesn’t matter for designs? I would definitely mention “lightness” and “minimalism.” The dark which product category) after “innovation” is “consistency”. ages of heavy funky gear covered by useless trims are over. Whatever isn’t If you manage to keep innovating year after year while being needed shouldn’t be there. consistent, you probably found the Holy Grail. What trends, such as “lighter and faster,” are influencing next season’s
76 JANUARY 2013
What product has stood the test of time?
also added an industry first nylon-based breathable lining called Dri-Core. This is a proprietary technology that we are extremely proud of and will offer a much more comfortable skiing experience in all climates. Being one of the only remaining brands in the industry to stand behind our products with a lifetime warranty, we listen, learn and react quickly from the few returns we happen to receive.
How much can you learn from a failed product?
What are some of the factors that give you confidence a product will succeed? We design using a distinct com-
Robert Yturri
SVP Product & Brand Management Obermeyer Robert Yturri is Obermeyer's senior vice president of product and brand management, bringing direction and management to an alpine brand that has not only stood the test of time, but has become almost synonymous with resort skiing. When developing a new product, where do you look for inspiration for your designs? We find inspiration by being very good listeners. This has been true to Obermeyer’s ethos as a company now for over 65 years. You’d be surprised where our best ideas have come from! What types of market research do you conduct on your way to a final product? Nothing replaces focus groups and field research during the design and development phase of our product creation process. We’ve built into our timeline ample days and weeks to host retailer and rep round tables, as well as true on-mountain testing of our future styles in prototype form. What trends are influencing next season’s designs? Brights still have some
legs, but we are seeing a shift toward more natural brights and a gradual shift away from shiny brights. In short, we could say bright but with more depth. With tech evolving each season, we'll continue to see performance fabrics trending, with an emphasis on highly waterproof/breathable stretch and more choices in eco-friendly materials. Next season, we will continue our partnership with our high performance, eco-conscious supplier Cocona and have added pinnacle insulation-provider Primaloft as a new supplier. Their insulation performs at a high level with less weight than the competition. We have
bination of design and functional aptitude, mixing colors inspired by our natural environment with on-snow features that are usually found on jackets twice as expensive. This combination is a no-brainer for success.
How has the advancement of gender-specific garments influenced product development? A lot. For decades, we have been known for our remarkable fit in each of our sub-categories, age and gender - this takes a tremendous amount of time, research, dedicated resources and focused attention on pattern-work to accomplish. Product fit and development per gender, age and size is a top priority at Obermeyer. How important is cross-functionality when consid-
We’re building versatility into our skiwear, allowing for more uses, functions and styles. It’s important to have a range of skiers and snowboarders in mind when creating product as everyone is doing it all these days…no more “alpine pigeonholing.”
ering new products?
Does the physical location of a design center affect
Absolutely it does - wouldn’t you feel more comfortable knowing the ski jacket you chose was designed and tested in Aspen, CO, from the heart of the mountains or from a big city close to the beach - you choose.
results or credibility?
In your opinion, what product has stood the test of time? Product that is consistently unique in design and technical in execution. The apparel industry as a whole is stripping out quality in the detailed or less visible areas to hit costing and fit into ideal retail price buckets.
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For full year calendar go to sportsonesource.com/events
JANUARY
13-15 Magic Marketplace Las Vegas, NV
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28-3
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FEBRUARY 1-5 NBS Spring Semi - Annual Market Fort Worth, TX 3-6 ISPO Munich 2013 Munich, Germany 5-7 FFANY New York, NY 6-8 ASI Dallas Dallas, TX 78 JANUARY 2013
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15-17
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21-24
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APRIL 12-14
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MAY 2-5
SOS Leadership Development & SGB 40 Under 40 Awards South Beach Miami, FL
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What first drove you to get active in the outdoors? I was born in the Adirondack Mountains in upstate New York, as the youngest in a family of 10 siblings. Our family car was a converted school bus. Our family has a long passion and history in the outdoors and we would take summer camping and winter skiing trips across the country in our bus. Including my parents, I had 12 people I was learning from in my immediate family everyday and schooling me in the ways of the outdoors. It was in my blood from birth. Our family moved West in the early 1970s to Utah (we are neither Catholic nor Mormon, just a big family) and were early investors in Snowbird Ski Resort and built the original Cliff Lodge. I was skiing from the top of Snowbird before walking and consider Little Cottonwood Canyon my home mountains. What outdoor activity or sport was your favorite as a kid? What was your proudest athletic moment? I was genetically a late bloomer in life, a little dude, a grommet, mini. Given my genetic pre-disposition, this led me away from the traditional sports in my formative years like baseball, football, basketball, which favored athletes that were blooming ahead of the bell curve or right on the top of the bell. But what do guys that are on the tail end of the bell do? I dedicated myself to sports that had nothing to do with traditional sports or bell shaped curves. They were sports that suited my size and my desire to pioneer something new. I was most passionate about skiing and ski racing while in Utah. In the late 1970s a part of my family moved to Berkeley, CA, and I took all that ski energy into windsurfing and wave sailing the cold waters and strong currents on the California coast. What was your first job? As a teenager, I grew up working in ski and windsurfing retail. I spent a few years working for a specialty windsurfing sail manufacturer making the best sails in the world in Berkeley and testing and refining them. Linking my work with my passions early in life was both inspiring and rewarding. In college, I thought it was time to get a “real job” and spent six months selling real estate securities to institutional investors. I learned quickly what I didn’t want to do with my life, luckily at an early age. From that point forward I dedicated myself completely to living a life that did not compromise my passions in life from my work in life.
TOPHER GAYLORD President, Mountain Hardwear and Montrail
Topher Gaylord began with Mountain Hardwear and Montrail in March 2010. Since that time, in 2003, the company was acquired by Columbia Sportswear, and Gaylord has maintained his stamina, both as a respected outdoor-industry executive and athlete. 80 JANUARY 2013
What do you love about working at Mountain Hardwear and in the outdoor industry? Mountain Hardwear is filled with inspiring people who are passionate about the outdoors and living full lives. As an example, Rowan Jimenez, our warranty manager, received a double lung transplant while working at MH and he reminds us all every day the gift of life and to live every moment to the fullest. The outdoor industry is filled with real people who have a desire to make the world a better place, that challenge each other and bring fun to those around them. I also enjoy the incredible values and integrity our industry has. What is your advice to someone looking to work or grow their career in the outdoor industry? Work on discovering your passion, then pursue it with every fiber in your body and mind. Find learning in everything you do, even the routine. ■
Summer Market JULY 31-AUGUST 3, 2013
Open Air Demo JULY 30, 2013
UR S YO AR K D R A EN M L CA
Winter Market JANUARY 22-25, 2014
All Mountain Demo JANUARY 21, 2014
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