啤 釀 港 香 是 日 西施沉魚 餐 飲
HONG KONG
BEER
FROM
GRAIN TOGLASS
AND BACK
第一頁
Making beer in Hong Kong starts with a delivery. Dried hop flowers arrive from Australia, New Zealand, the United States and Europe; they can’t grow in Hong Kong because they need the long hours of daylight that are only found above the 36th parallel. Same for barley, which grows best in a cool climate. Most brewers get their barley from Germany, where it is malted, which involves soaking it in water until it sprouts, then drying it, which produces more sugar to ferment. Some Hong Kong brewers have tried brewing with locally-grown rice, but this creates a very thin beer unless it is mixed with barley, wheat or some other more substantial grain. Hops are necessary because they provide bitterness that balances the sweetness of the malt. One local brewer tried to replace the hops with lemon rind, which produced a beer that tasted like lemonade.
在香港製造啤酒，首先由原材料付運開始。
來自澳洲，紐西蘭，美國，歐洲。香港沒有種植 生產。種植生產地區集中在南北緯線36度；當 地日照時間十分長，而且氣候清涼。
最理想的種植地區氣候亦宜清涼。大部分釀啤酒 商都從德國入口大麥。大麥經過充分浸水後發芽 ；再經烘乾。產生了足夠的糖作發酵用途。
起點
釀製啤酒對原材料的要求十分講究。在香港有人嘗試採用本地白 米 ， 但 結 果 釀 製 出 來 的 酒 味 稀 薄 。 只 有 混 和 了 大 麥 丶小 麥 或 其 他 榖類，才能夠嚐到效果。更重要的是，啤酒花乃必備的材料，它 產生的苦味正正平衡了麥芽的甜味，給予啤酒獨特的味道。有本 地啤酒工房甚至採用檸檬皮代替，但結果釀出了味道像檸檬水的 啤酒。
試嘗膽大 麥大 花酒啤
香港味 第二頁
七百年前，德國人通過一條法例，規限只可 用水﹑大麥和啤酒花製造啤酒︵他們當時未 懂得酵母的作用︶。
上述的三種基本材料已經可以造出林林總總不 同種類的啤酒。但要製造有香港味道的啤酒該 用什麼方法呢？
少爺麥啤﹁Young Master Ales﹂的 Rohit Dugar，和釀酒大師Ulrich Altbauer曾經採用過乾洛神花，令到啤 酒稍為酸澀，略帶泥土的味道。也嘗試過用陳 皮，突出了苦味柑橘的特性。 他們亦鑽研出有香港味道的夏日小麥酒，材料 來 自 上 環 老 字 號 源 興 裡 的 五 種 香 料 : 黃 薑﹑ 芫 荽籽﹑菊花﹑甘菊和白胡椒，一同煉成招牌季 節啤｜夏日麼麼啤﹁Mo’Mo’Wit﹂ 。
另一啤酒工房門神﹁Moonzen Brewery ﹂亦經常嘗試採用香港人熟悉的各種味道來釀 製 啤 酒 。 門 神 釀 酒 大 師兼 創 辦 人 L a z l o Raphael走到油麻地的排檔購入一桶桶 的本地蜜糖，用來製造門神其中一款招牌啤 Kitchen God Honey Porter。今年 他準備採用柑橘來釀製一款限量季節啤，特地 走到廣東一家農莊做大量搜購。當地農民得知 他的用途後都向他投以怪異及好奇的目光。
More than seven centuries ago, the Germans passed a law requiring beer to be made from nothing more than water, barley and hops. (They didn't know about yeast.) You can make all sorts of different beer with these three basic ingredients, but how do you make a beer that tastes like Hong Kong? Young Master Ales boss Rohit Dugar and master brewer Ulrich Altbauer have used dried roselle, which gives beer a tart, earthy flavour, and chun pei, which imparts a bitter citrus character. They also visit Yuen Heng in Sheung Wan to buy a mix of five spices for their summer wheat ale, the Mo'Mo Wit: zedoary, coriander seeds, chrysanthemum, chamomile and white pepper. At Moonzen Brewery, Laszlo Raphael goes to the Yau Ma Tei street market to buy bulk local honey for his Kitchen God Honey Porter; the hawkers keep it in large vats. For a special kumquat beer he brewed this year, Laszlo visited a farm in Guangdong. He says the farmers gave him a funny look when he told them what he planned to do with it.
直接 放進 釀啤
帶出 啤酒花 甘甜味
香氣 滲入 啤酒
門 神 出 品 了 幾款 春 日 花 香 淡 啤 酒。Lazlo以不同的提煉方 法來配合各種花的特性。
沖茶 乾花 蒸餾
熟悉．變化
花莉茉 花桂 花神洛
少爺麥啤也創作了另一香港味道啤 酒 茶餐廳gose。 Rohit和Ulrich先用益 力多培植乳酸菌，令啤酒產生酸味 。之後，加入鹹檸檬及海鹽。啤酒 的味道帶有鹹檸七的影子。
第三頁
When Moonzen made a series of light spring beers using Chinese flowers, Laszlo extracted their essence in different ways. He made a roselle tea and mixed it with the beer. He put osmanthus flowers directly in the beer, as if they were hops. He used a steam distiller to extract a jasmine aroma. At Young Master, Rohit and Ulrich made a sour beer, the Cha Chaan Teng Gose, with salted lime. They began by using Yakult to make a starter culture of lactobacillus bacteria, which is what makes the beer sour. Then they add the salted lime and some extra sea salt. The resulting beer tastes a bit like 7-Up with sour lime.
At Moonzen, Laszlo uses a hot composter to turn his spent grain into a rich compost. He gives it to schools and gardeners, who mix one part of compost with ten parts of soil. Anything left over is taken to public parks for guerilla composting.
第四頁
門神的Lazlo會將發酵過的 穀物放進熱製堆肥機裡製成堆肥 ，送給一些學校和喜歡園藝的朋 友。多出來的肥料，他會自己撒 進某些公園。偷偷地進行游擊施 肥。
Rohit亦 將 部 分 剩 餘 材 料送給元朗的華記養豬場當 飼 料 。 主 理 人 Charles Chan感 覺 豬 隻 非 常 喜 歡 這 類飼料，可惜的是豬隻數量 少，未能消耗用量。香港養 豬場過去十年間，由180 個下跌到43個。部分是因 為政府補償豬農結業的計劃 而結束經營。
啤酒釀製之後會剩下很多發了酵 的材料。釀酒師叫那些物料 ﹁spent grain ﹂ 。 少爺麥啤會張這些餘物交予麵包 師來焙烘酸麵團包。今年， Rohit和 Ulrich亦 將 這 些酸麵團放進用橡木威士忌桶存 放的啤酒裡。 Making beer produces a lot of leftover malted grain. Brewers call this "spent grain." Young Master gives some of it to a baker, who uses it to make sourdough bread. This year, Rohit and Ulrich took some of the sourdough and put it inside a new batch of beer, which they stored inside oak rye whiskey barrels.
Even after making bread, there's still a lot of spent grain left over. Rohit gives it to Wah Kee Pig Farm in Yuen Long. Wah Kee's owner, Charles Chan, says the pigs love the taste of the spent grain. Unfortunately, there aren't enough pigs to eat all the grain: the number of pig farms in Hong Kong has declined from 180 to 43 in the last ten years, partly because the government pays pig farmers to quit the business.
剩餘物料
日
HILL TEA?
第五頁
LYCHEE?
叉燒 ？
紫貝天葵 ？
CHAR SIU?
荔枝 ？
放什麼本地食材入啤酒裏最有香港味道？
？
下一步
GINGER?
薑
What local food should we put in Hong Kong beer?
哥華長大
Laine Tam is a graphic designer and the illustrator of “Hong Kong Beer: From Grain to Glass and Back”. Raised in Hong Kong and Vancouver, she studied biology and environment in Montreal before turning her attention to creative pursuits. She is an eclectic at heart who draws inspiration from the small details of everyday life. She loves handcrafted Hong Kong things: stencilled letters, carved mahjong tiles and hand-painted signs. Her favourite vegetable is the eggplant.
Christopher DeWolf Christopher DeWolf is a Canadian journalist who has lived in Hong Kong since 2008. He has always been fascinated by cities, people and places. His writing focuses on urbanism, architecture, design, art and culture, with the occasional foray into beer and other drinks. He is especially fascinated by the intersection between different topics, so it's perhaps no surprise that his taste in beer runs to the unconventional, like smoked IPAs or hoppy sour ales.
筆記
在香港及加拿大
Laine Tam
Christopher DeWolf 是一 從2008年已旅居香港的加拿大 籍新聞工作者。Christopher 永遠對城市、人和地都抱著一 特 的情 意結。其寫作題材雖專注在都市化生活、 建築、設計、藝術及文化方面；但偶爾亦 涉足啤酒和其他飲品的範疇。 Christopher對不同題材的互 所以不難想像他的啤酒 動特 感興趣 品味也頗為另類。
譚亦 是一
的平面設計師；在魁北克省蒙特利爾修讀
生物及環境學後轉移向創作方面發展，其
創作源頭來自日常生活的微細事物。骨子
裡是一個折衷主義者的Laine，熱愛
模板字、麻雀牌雕刻及手繪招牌等等的傳
統香港手藝；而她的至愛蔬菜是茄子。 譚亦
木製植盆版的《香港農民曆》為限量製作，在農耕同好及HK FARMers之間分享傳閱， 而所有內容的電子版本以及工作坊的紀錄可於其出版人Spring工作室的網頁免費下載。 www.springworkshop.org/the-hk-farmers-almanac .
The HK FARMers’ Almanac is produced as a limited-edition volume-in-a-planter, to be shared among fellow agriculturists and other nurturing souls. Digital versions of all content as well as documentation from its publisher Spring Workshop will be downloadable from www.springworkshop.org/the-hk-farmers-almanac .