Global Grilling

Finding the best barbecue inspiration isn’t just about southern backroads. We leave our passports at home for this tour of Toronto’s best globally-inspired grill shops.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SANDRO PEHAR

Think barbecue, and your mind probably goes to wholehog cooking, brisket slathered in sauce, and smokers tended by pitmasters in the southern U.S. But cooking meat over a fire is not a uniquely North American pursuit. From kabobs served in the traditional Afghan fashion to Japanese yakitori fanned over binchotan charcoal, meat-charring is something people have been doing around the globe for centuries. All over the city, Toronto has a breadth and depth of barbecue options, with meat smoking in remote warehouses and lit grills in the downtown core. We take a look at five barbecue hotspots around town that are turning up the heat.

ROYWOODS

Roywoods, famous for jerk chicken, started as a small takeout spot near Fort York with minimal seating and maximum Caribbean flavour. Last year they opened a second location on Ossington. Their chicken is marinated days in advance to completely infuse the bird with flavour before it’s cooked; first grilled and then baked carefully throughout the day to keep things juicy. The blend of herbs and spices is a secret – but Roywood’s homestyle Caribbean jerk sauce, perfected over time, is made from scratch with fresh, local ingredients. 121 Fort York Blvd., roywoods.ca

ZAKKUSHI YAKITORI

Japanese yakitori is grilling on a smaller scale than your classic animal-on-a-spit scenario. Meat is seasoned with teriyaki before it’s cut into bite-sized pieces, pierced with a wooden skewer and cooked on a special charcoal kiln with a netted grill. White charcoal called “bincho” radiates heat up to 1,000 C and is fanned as the meat cooks, giving it a smoky taste and smell. All parts of the animal are used at Zakkushi – the skewers run the gamut from chicken thigh, pork belly, and wagyu beef to gizzard, liver and chicken heart. 193 Carlton St., zakkushi.com

ROYAL MEATS

When you think of barbecue, an Eastern European restaurant may not necessarily be the first that comes to mind. But this Etobicoke based restaurant serves up some of the most succulent grilled meats you’ll find in the GTA. The extensive menu covers a wide range for meat and seafood lovers, but the highlights are still its European offerings. Go for the pork & veal meat rolls (cevapi), which are served with pickled vegetables and clotted cream (kajmak). Or get the grilled pork shishkabob if you want an example of how tender and juicy the meat is here. 710 Kipling Ave., royalmeats.ca

NAAN & KABOB

The secret to an evenly-grilled Afghan kabob lies in its centre – a thin and flat metallic skewer that helps to transmit heat evenly. The meat-laden skewers spend 12 hours in a flavourful marinade (coriander, cumin, mild crushed chillies) before they’re handed over to a designated “grill man” who is specially trained to man the kabob cooking station. Naan & Kabob have customized their gas-powered grills with a tempered glass shield that helps protect the griller from heat hazards. Once complete, the kabobs are served with naan in traditional Afghan fashion. 691 Yonge St., nandk.ca

ADAMSON BBQ

Arguably central Texas, with its minimalist approach to seasoning and long cook times, is the most popular style of barbecue right now. Adamson BBQ effuses all things Texas barbecue, starting with its rustic grunge settings. Like the great barbecue joints of the U.S. a visit to the restaurant is a pilgrimage, in this case to the industrial back corners of Leaside. Meat heads will drive in from across the province for a few pounds of smoked brisket, tended to overnight in one of the restaurant’s large outdoor smokers. 176 Wicksteed Ave., adamsonbarbecue.com