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SABYASACHI- UNDERSTANDING THE LABEL
Sabyasachi
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Summer of 1999, Sabyasachi Mukherjee graduated from the National Institute of Fashion Technology, India with three major awards. Four months later, Sabyasachi started his eponymous label which began with a workforce of just three persons. Over the years, he has successfully built a clothing brand which has a very strong social perspective. Quick to understand the demands of the Indian market, Sabyasachi has created a brand that has represented a comfort zone to global Indians and remained undestroyed through major socio-economical-political changes.
Early 2001, Sabyasachi won the Femina British Council’s most outstanding young Designer of India award, which took him to London for an internship with Georgina Von Etzdorf, an eclectic designer based in Salisbury. Returning home with edgier ideas, Sabyasachi started retailing at all major stores in India. Sabya feels that his debut at Lakme India Fashion Week with his collection Kashgar Baazar in 2002 was the third and possibly the biggest landmark. .His first Bollywood film, Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Black, which won him his first ever national award for costumes, is very special to him. His Spring/Summer 2005 collection Frog Princess got him his first ever international store display — Browns in London.The brand’s first Cannes red-carpet appearance was with Aishwarya Rai Bachchan wearing a Sabyasachi sari.The first interior designing project that Sabya did was for Taj 51 Buckingham Gate in London. Sabya designed the hotel’s iconic Cinema Suites.A gamechanger for the brand from the communication point of view was opening Sabyasachi Instagram and the first Instagram show that was Firdaus (2016). Sabya started his jewellery line in 2017. His show Band Baajaa Bride has been one of the most popular programmes on Indian television. It ran for eight seasons and won numerous awards. His foray into the Far East with Lane Crawford and his White Wedding line with them was very important
Style and design of Sabyasachi
In one of his interview’s Sabyasachi described his style as ‘personalized imperfection of the human hand’. He has drawn most of his ideas from his surroundings and his childhood. Kolkata’s scenic backdrops and imprints that have left a never changing impact on his mind is what comes through beautifully in all his creations. Traditional and very ‘Indian’ is his style and he makes the most of it. Gypsies, deserts, antique use of fabrics, textiles, and embroideries get beautifully woven into each sari, lehenga or salwar kameez, which are his areas of expertise. What gives his designs a twist is his unique blend of colors and fabrics. One may never think of putting 4 different shades in four different sections of a sari with different designs, but when Sabyasachi comes out with the final product, one gets compelled to believe that it is possible and achievable. Fusion of different patchwork designs on vibrant colors is his trademark.
Vintage and old world Indian charm is extremely apparent through all the motifs and techniques used. He describes it as “International styling with an Indian soul. While the whole fashion industry has taken a plunge in modern day designs and techniques, Sabyasachi’s designs stay completely rooted in what India really is. He also regards international artists such as Monet and Henry Matisse as sources of inspiration. Some of his popular trends include Bandhani work, gotta work, block printing, and hand dyeing.
Present Day Scenario and Global Appeal
There isn’t a single Bollywood actress who has not worn a Sabyasachi. From Aishwarya Rai, Vidya Balan, Sri Devi, Rani Mukherjee, Deepika Padukone, Bipasha Basu to the timeless beauty Hema Malini, they have all donned a Sabyasachi sari or salwar kurta.
Sabyasachi brides are countless from beautiful Anushka Sharma, Priyanka Chopra, Diipa Khosla, sportswomen like Saina Nehwal, billionares like Ambanis, everybody. Other than dressing the glamorous Bollywood divas, Sabyasachi has also designed costumes for several Hindi movies like Guzaarish, Babul, Raavan, Black, and Laaga Chunari Mein Daag. Several of his designs have also been showcased on international platforms such as New York Fashion week, Milan Fashion week, and Miami fashion week. Even in the recent Cannes film festival held in Paris, popular Bollywood actress Vidya Balan wore only Sabyasachi designs in the form of either sari’s or lehengas. Some of the international actresses like Reese Witherspoon, Rene Zelleweger have greatly supported his collections. Recently to mark his 20th year in fashion, he showcased Kashgaar Bazaar, a summation of his body of work, at the Grand Hyatt in Mumbai.
Chronicles of the future Foretold
Other than designing fabulous looking saris, suits, and lehengas, Sabyasachi has also taken great initiatives in reviving certain embroidery types and textiles in India. He started a project by the name ‘Save the Saree’, where he produces hand woven saris which are made on a nonprofit basis, and are priced between 2000 to 4000. The entire remuneration earned goes to the weavers living in Murshidabad. He has also greatly revived the use of Khadi in the world of textiles and fabrics.
Brand promise and idenity
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