Editorial

Fall Nourishment

Deval (Reshma) PaRanjPe, mD, mBa, FaCs

Autumn: the season of glorious color, pumpkin spice everything, football, bonfires, and cuisine that warms your body and soul. The outdoor heaters are re-emerging at your favorite restaurants, and it’s time for a roundup of the places to sate your cravings for warming, nurturing and festive food.

Fig and Ash

514 East Ohio Street, North Side. 412-321-2222

A hidden gem with an unexpected large public city parking lot immediately behind it (access from Emlin Street off James Street). The autumn menu features signature meatloaf (worth it), lamb ragu tagliatelle, short rib, as well as a pumpkin risotto that is a star attraction. The roasted carrots are a fine appetizer as are the spicy mussels; try the Pecan or Pecan’t (There is No Try) cocktail, a pecan infused riff on an Old Fashioned. Sit at the beautiful bar or in the dining room, or better yet, sit by the fire in the covered outdoor space for an intimate dinner by firelight and heavenly aromas wafting about from the smoker.

Apteka

4606 Penn Avenue, Bloomfield. 412-251-0189

Finally recognized nationally, Apteka made the New York Times 50 Best Restaurants List this year. These truths intersect for most visitors to Apteka: 1) you will love it 2) it is vegan 3) your mind will be blown and your world shaken because of this juxtaposition. Apteka still features exquisite authentic pierogis—light, flavorful, and filled with traditional ingredients that you won’t find at your local church hall or grocery store. It has also branched out into more adventurous but equally delicious dishes which still promise unexpected thrills. Eastern European liquors and cocktails which you won’t find anywhere else are also offered.

Spork

5433 Penn Avenue, Bloomfield/Garfield. 412-441-1700

All around perfection. If you have a special event to celebrate or a sweetheart to impress, this is the place to go. The menu is rife with old school classics including Veal Osso Bucco, Stuffed Quail, Forest Mushroom Ravioli, Tagliatelle Bolognese, Prawns, Octopus, Lobster Roll, Scallops, Duck Confit and two separate Wagyu beef dishes. And yet the chef manages to add unexpectedly playful and luxurious touches like a lobster corn dog in the Wagyu Surf and Turf, or duck fat fried potatoes and wine truffle butter sauce in the Poutine. Try the autumn special Berkshire Pork Cheek with Spatzle, cider glace and horseradish crème to get in the seasonal mood. The food is reliably perfect, and the service is wonderful as well. A dining experience rarely gets better than this.

The Parlor Dim Sum

4401 Butler Street, Lawrenceville. 412-586-4796

Chef Roger Li has settled on brick and mortar after a series of wildly successful pop-ups. Focusing on Dim Sum and Cantonese specialties such as barbecue and congee, Li showcases Wok Hei (breath of the wok) and other cooking methods. Here you can find Dim Sum for dinner—a wide range of sweet and savory bite-sized dishes meant to be shared and served with hot tea. Look for Cantonese Roast Duck as well as Har Gow, Cha Siu Bao, Siu Mai and a plethora of others. Dinner only at present time.

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Mola

6018 Penn Avenue, East Liberty. 412-365-6688

Easily the best and hottest sushi in town next to the venerable Umi and booked-solid Gi-Jin, yet without the Umi price tag and more accessible than GiJin. Daily Lunch specials 7 days a week from 11 am-3:30 pm include 2 hand rolls/cut rolls/bao OR a rice bowl, and a side of either miso soup or seaweed, spicy crab or mixed green salads. Both food and service are spectacular, and call-ahead omakase may be an option (call ahead to inquire, naturally).

Con Alma

Ellsworth 5884 Ellsworth Avenue, Shadyside 412-932-2387 Downtown 613 Penn Avenue Cultural District 412-363-5316

These are the restaurant/jazz clubs that we had needed for years. The Ellsworth location made Esquire’s 27 Best Bars in America 2021 list. The Downtown location is in the heart of the Cultural District and boasts much more space. Both locations feature jazz every weekend, with weekday jazz at Ellsworth. The food is an eclectic, tasty, spice-filled journey to the Caribbean, Central America and New Orleans with nods to Chinese and Indian cuisine. Ellsworth features a vegan menu (like Apteka, your mind will be blown) while downtown has full-service offerings. Downtown also features a New Orleans style brunch including Shrimp Creole, Beignets, Cajun Steak and Eggs, Bananas Foster French Toast, Jambalaya with eggs, and Champagne and Frites.

Laissez les bon temps rouler!

Point Brugge

401 Hastings Street, Point Breeze 412-441-3334 Park Bruges 5801 Bryant Street, Highland Park 412-661-3334

What is Fall without a giant bowl of moules frites at one of these two Belgian neighborhood gathering spots? Choose from classic white wine, red curry or Dijon cream sauces and two bowl sizes for your mussels. Mezze, charcuterie and cheese boards serve as prelude for heartier dishes such as Steak Frites, Carbonnade Flamande (beef braised in brown ale), Salmon with Risotto, Chicken Milanese and soul-soothing vegetarian Cavatappi. You can also find Poutine, Mac and Cheese, Tarte Flambee (think Alsatian pizza), Croque Monsieur, Point Burger and lovely salads to round out the menu. Enjoy with a fine Belgian Tripel or glass of wine if you wish. Lunch, dinner and brunch; takeout available.

Hyde Park Steakhouse

247 North Shore Drive, North Shore. 412-222-4014

I’m going old-school to finish out this list. Although perhaps less glamorous and well known than the Capital Grille or Ruth’s Chris downtown, Hyde Park is rock solid with excellent service, curbside valet parking and an inviting atmosphere with two fireplaces. Offering a menu of classic steakhouse fare including a variety of dry aged steaks and chops, seafood and vegetarian options made perfectly to order, you are sure to find something you love. Sides are flavorful and rich; desserts are fantastic and luscious. Curbside carryout and delivery. A reliable class act with lovely ambiance that will keep you warm as the weather gets cold.

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