stamped PENN’S TRAVEL MAGAZINE | SPRING 2015
EMBRACING CONTRADICTION learning to travel in full
HOSTEL
SOLO
friends in unlikely places
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Letter IURP WKH
Editor Dear Adventure-Seekers, A little over a year ago I was studying abroad in Townsville, Australia, a thirty-hour plane ride from Philadelphia. My viewpoints on people and how people live had been altered by a small glimpse into the possibility of living freely, without obligation. I was lucky enough to traverse five continents in five months, and what stuck with me most were the people I met and with whom I ventured. They all made an honest living. Not only in monetary gain, but more in their happiness income. They treated their lives with honesty and authenticity, accepting failures and learning from them, celebrating the mere existence of every day as a success. Upon my return to Penn, I found it difficult to continue this way of living. I observed among my colleagues a contagious trend of treating a new day as a burden on a checklist, rather than welcoming it as an opportunity for exploration. It was an overwhelming and bleak means of existence, and I realized a few months after my return that I was partaking without question.
I have since come to realize that happiness is a choice, and a single obligation will always exist: to be honest with oneself in all experiences. It is in honesty that happiness flourishes, passion thrives, and greatness soars. We all have the potential to make an honest living every day, in every profession, under every circumstance. Choosing honesty can be arduous, but it, too, is contagious. This issue of Stamped is about places that encourage honesty culturally. Our pieces describe how the environment can and does determine humanity’s values. This issue’s feature explores the unconventional ways of creating value in one’s abroad experience. We find that “the hardest part of reflecting is not giving into this myth that your abroad experience depends on taking the best pictures with the best people in the best places.” It depends on absorbing the nuances in each moment, taking brilliance and surprise at face value and enjoying them. We take you to South Africa, where we learn how the locals live: “At times the lions would disappear into the grass, and all we could hear was their jagged breaths; they always reappeared, as if they were our own personal tour guides.” We stroll through Woodstock, “a little garden of bizarre tucked between the mountains.” We explore Lake Tahoe in the winter, allowing our readers to, “Imagine staring out over scintillating, white mountain ranges, the crisp wind caressing your sun-warmed cheeks and the earth folding out around you.”
stamped magazine EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MANAGING EDITOR
Jackie Duhl Nolan Burger
PHOTO EDITOR Brenda Nguyen ASSOC. PHOTO EDITOR Charlene You CREATIVE DIRECTOR Virginia Walcott BUSINESS DIRECTOR Yasmin Meleis WRITERS Ava Van der Meer, Alexis Krushell, Hannah Rosenfeld, Carolyn Grace, Adrian Rios, Sarah Zandi, Asher Sendyk, Gillian Reny
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These people, these places, they represent what makes us human: the capability of choice, the admiration of beauty, the desire to breathe deeply and live fully. We must endure this life with passion so that we may thrive instead of merely survive. Be honest, give more, regret less. To the incredible Stamped staff: thank you for choosing happiness and making this magazine larger than life. Each of you takes on an integral role in shaping every aspect of Stamped, and your enthusiasm for its livelihood is unfailing. I respect and appreciate your efforts more than you know. To my managing editor, Nolan: thank you for reading my mind and being on the opposite schedule of me-how else would we get things done? Creating Stamped with you over the past year has truly defined me as a person, and I value your advice and friendship more than I love San Fermin music, so you know it’s huge. Thank you to Kelly Writers House, Jessica Lowenthal in particular, for funding Stamped and supporting us from day one. Last, but certainly not least, thank you to you, our readers. Now, go, set the world aflame, and live the adventure.
Stamped Love, VIGNETTES EDITOR Nicole cole Malick IMPRESSIONS EDITOR Sarah rah Wilker TRENDS EDITOR Vidushi shi Bharava PHOTOGRAPHERS Brenda Nguyen, Nolan Burger, Jackie Duhl, Zachary St. Louis, Hannah Rosenfeld, Adrian Rios, Carolyn Grace, Rachel Rosenblum, m, Sophia Tareen DESIGNERS Garett Nelson, Emma Soren, Olivia Fingerhood, Virginia Walcott
Jackie Duhl Editor-in-Chief
4..................................Letter from the Editor
VIGNETTES
CONTENTS
6..............................Taking on Snow in Tahoe 8............................................Hidden Treasures of Philadelphia 11................................................Tokyo: Top 10 14..................................................Paris Gratuit
FEATURE 16...........................Unconventionally Abroad
IMPRESSIONS 21...........................................The Wonders of Woodstock 23..............................................Hostelling Solo 26........................................Lions of Londolozi 28................................................Seeing Streets 30....................................Editor Commentary
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TAKING ON SNOW IN
TAHOE
SKIING, SLEDDING, & SNOWMOBILES, OH MY! by Ava Van Der Meer
photos by Zachary St. Louis
While a summertime slice of Lake Tahoe reveals some of the most exceptional hiking, water-skiing, and mountain biking in the world, the outdoorsy wonderland transforms itself into an equally noteworthy getaway in the winter months. So grab a few close friends, pack your coziest winter wardrobe, and set off to explore the pristine nature of the Sierra Nevada.
GETTING THERE Fly from Philadelphia to Reno ($500 round trip). Rent a car ($90 for the weekend) and drive 50 miles on the scenic US-395 South to Tahoe. From there, drive to either North or South Shore.
WHERE TO STAY Although circumscribing a single lake, Tahoe is segmented into two distinct shores, each with its own distinct atmosphere, resorts, and villages. Be sure to explore the east and west sides of both North and South Shore, ranging from local dives and rugged mountaineering to tourist hotspots and upper-end luxury. While each shore has its own assortment of ski lodges, resorts, hostels, and bed and breakfasts, one highly recommended choice for college students traveling in groups is renting a condominium at Squaw Condos Village at Squaw Valley on the North Shore. Ranging from $99-459 per night, a one bedroom, one bathroom condo sleeps up to four people comfortably and flaunts full internet-usage, a fully stocked kitchen, a ski storage locker, a sofa sleeper, and a balcony. With easy access to the slopes and a warm fireplace to curl up by afterwards, the condo provides a truly priceless snow day experience.
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SKI
SLED
Tahoe is a skier’s heaven. Imagine staring out over scintillating, white mountain ranges, the crisp wind caressing your sunwarmed cheeks and the earth folding out around you. In the distance, Lake Tahoe reflects the clear blue sky in all its immensity and magnificence. Not to mention, Tahoe receives 400 inches of fresh snow a year to coat the slopes in a thick, fluffy powder, unlike its icy East Coast counterparts. Choose from a total of seven mountains—Heavenly, Kirkwood, Mt. Rose, Northstar, Sierra-at-Tahoe, Squaw Valley/Alpine Meadows—with one day lift tickets ranging from $62-95 for adults and ski equipment rentals averaging $40-50. Each mountain has its own groomers, terrain parks, moguls, and backcountry terrain, so wake up early to carve fresh tracks, or take a class with local instructors. For those desiring a little more relaxation, the lodges are ideal for grabbing hot cocoa and and enjoying a warm, rustic cabin.
For nostalgic souls yearning after the days spent building snowmen and spinning on snow saucers, let Tahoe bring you back! Rather than making snow angels in your backyard, venture to one of Tahoe’s numerous sledding sites, such as Adventure Mountain in South Lake Tahoe ($10-25 for the day). Enjoy flying down groomed runs on either sleds or inner tubes, and relive your giddy childhood adventures. Snowshoe rentals ($18) allow you to explore the wintry forest trails in a serene and refreshing way.
SNOWMOBILE Looking for a more daring day in the snow? Try snowmobiling with companies like Full Throttle Lake Tahoe self-guided tours (around $100 per hour). Race across miles of ice and snow while learning how to evaluate technical ascents, maneuver through dense woods, and perhaps even catch some air. While not for the faint of heart, this adventure is sure to be one to remember and a creative way to discover Tahoe’s natural beauty and splendor with your friends.
TAHOE CITY For a fun night out, Tahoe City is the place to go. Although relatively contained compared to other vacation locations, Tahoe City is still a local hub of activity with plenty of lively restaurants and bars. Choose from rustic, outdoorsy scenes such as Bridgetender Tavern and Grill and refined, sophisticated eateries like Christy Hill. And don’t forget the classic, cozy brunch at Firesign Café! Nestle into a couch with a few friends and watch the snowflakes settle to the ground over a heaping plate of pancakes coated in hot blue-raspberry sauce. Whether it’s cozily hunkering down by the fireplace, boosting your adrenaline on the slopes, or exploring the hidden gems of this winter wonderland, Tahoe truly has something for everyone. So, hurry up and pack your bags—Tahoe’s calling. What are you waiting for?
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hiddenTREASURES *LIW VKRSSLQJ on a 6WXGHQW %XGJHW
by Alexis Krushell photos by Brenda Nguyen
Tired of buying Penn shot glasses for siblings, monogrammed ties for your dad, and “ironic” college novelties for your friends? We’ll make sure you ?=J łJ@ PDA LANBA?P LNAOAJPO BKN BNEAJ@O B=IEHU KN UKQN OLA?E=H OKIAKJA
$RLNR 115 s. 22nd st. $$ It’s easy to pass by Aoiko boutique when walking around Center City due to its arbitrary location, but don’t miss out! This charming shop features unique jewelry, clothing, and décor handpicked by the shop’s owner, Alina. Bureaus dotted with dried roses and colorful ceramics would please any girl with an edgy yet feminine taste. Be warned: it will be difficult not to empty your wallet on gifts for yourself.
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'XNH :LQVWRQ 1822 chesnut st. $$ If you’re looking for an original piece of clothing for your boyfriend, friend or brother, Duke and Winston is the place to go. This rustic store is filled with graphic tees, hats, belts, and ties for the casual gent. If you’re looking for something a little more out of
the ordinary, this shop also houses unique flasks and books. Duke and Winston even has a section for dogs - think offbeat collars and onesies if you or anyone you know is guilty of celebrating their dog’s birthday (which, let’s face it, we all are).
A I H P L E D A L I H P f o SWAG
2PRL =DNND 1608 pine st. $$ Omoi Zakka, besides being fun to say, translates roughly to “ideas” and “objects that hold special meaning,” a name reflective of many of the things this shop sells. This place prides itself on offering new and different merchandise, and it’s easy to see how their products, such as socks, perfumes, incense, ceramics, and almost anything else you
could think of - will become the new favorite of the lucky gift-receiver. Paying Omoi Zakka a visit without getting a thing or two for yourself is difficult - but with such reasonable prices, you can splurge guilt-free! (If you want a sneak peak into what this shop has to offer, be sure to check out their Instagram, @ Omoizakkashop!)
935 n. 2nd st. $ While SWAG is a little bit out of the way, it’s definitely worth your while! This place offers merchandise geared for people of all ages. SWAG Boutique has a huge range of self-described “whimsical” gifts, the perfect place to look if you’re hunting for something a little more distinctive. This boutique offers gifts ranging from the playful to the practical, from tea-infusers to totes, and it’s hard to find anything over $30.
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7VHODLQH 1927 walnut st. $$ Tselaine is a boutique filled with quirky and imaginative gifts including statement jewelry and eye-popping scarves, purses, and other accessories. If you’re looking for a gift with a bit of humor, Tselaine is a must-see. Bonus - they sell items sourced from local artists, which means you won’t find this stuff anywhere else! They even have a Pinterest guide for gifts under $30, $50 and $100, in case you want to check it before making the trek.
%RUQ <HVWHUGD\ 1910 walnut st. $$ Born Yesterday offers items ranging from Paris-themed teacup sets to toy-truck kits. The aqua walls are shelved with children’s stories, pre-packaged gift sets for babies, and a plethora of children’s clothing. With such a diverse selection of toys, decorations, outfits and books, you’re sure to find a perfect gift for a younger sibling, cousin, niece, or nephew.
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10 Reasons to Visit
T KY article and photos by Hannah Rosenfeld
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It’s no wonder that Tokyo was recently voted the best city in the world for travelers by TripAdvisor. Having grown up in Tokyo, there is no doubt that I am biased, but Tokyo will always be the most fascinating city in the world to me. While Japan is rich in history and plays a key role in global politics, it is also where fashion, culture, art, and identity come together in incredible ways. Here are my top ten reasons to convince one to visit Tokyo:
highest number of commuters with 3.5 million people passing through each day.
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Convenience stores at every corner: Wawa is nothing in comparison to the variety of convenience stores located throughout the city. They are almost TOO convenient, as one can easily find what the Japanese call konbini at every street corner. These stores sell all kinds of hot and cold beverages including soda, coffee, tea, sports drinks, juice, milk, vitamin drinks, and alcohol. Other goods available include body care products, cosmetics, batteries, stationary, umbrellas, newspapers, and magazines. Not to mention, convenience stores offer a wide range of services including: ATMs, copier/fax machines, ticket reservations, digital camera prints, and delivery services. What more can you ask for?
tempura: seafood and vegetables that have been battered and deep-fried to mouthwatering perfection by a lone chef who has been running the restaurant for over thirty years.
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Baseball is a Cultural Phenomenon: Tokyo is one of the three cities in the world – along with Chicago and Seoul – that has two baseball stadiums located in the metropolitan area. Baseball is not only considered a sport, but also a culture. In Japan, fan support is central to baseball games. Fans sit in reserved bleacher sections and create an intoxicating atmosphere from their harmonized collective cheering, which is accompanied by whistles, trumpets, drums, flags, and banners. Attending a baseball game in Japan is almost equivalent to attending a college football game!
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Tradition and Modernity Intermix: For such a highly urbanized and modernized city, there exists a sophisticated mix of tradition and modernity. Within Tokyo, one can stumble upon an unbelievable amount of shrines and gardens for those seeking a peaceful break from the hectic city life. For those seeking tranquility, the Shinto shrine in Meiji Jingu provides a peaceful break from the hustle and bustle of city life and, ironically, it is located in the heart of the city. In addition, quiet narrow streets that date back to the Edo Period can be found in Kagurazaka, along with dozens of bistros, cafes, galleries, and craft shops.
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Shopping: Tourists flock from over the world to shop at some of the most luxurious shopping districts in East Asia. Omotesando, Aoyama and Ginza are high-end shopping neighborhoods where one can find almost every major designer brand in the world. On the other hand, independent fashion boutiques can be found in Harajuku and Shibuya, which nourish quirky and prolific youth fashion, some of which defies the notion of traditional Japanese beauty that represents an aesthetic concentrated on austerity, simplicity, and modesty.
Clean and punctual society: As busy and cr owded as Tokyo is, the people are known to be patient and polite. People will organize themselves into lines during the peaks of rush hour and are considerate in regards to cleanliness. It is almost impossible to find a trash bin located anywhere in the city, yet no one litters. In addition, people are so trustworthy that you can expect to find your lost items returned whether you leave it on the street, on public transport, or at a restaurant. I once left dropped my wallet in Shibuya, one of the busiest wards in Tokyo, only to find that someone had turned it into the local police box with everything – money, house key, train pass, ID, and debit card – still in it.
Sophisticated Public Transport Systems: Forget SEPTA. Public transportation is not only phenomenal in Tokyo but throughout Japan. Trains and buses are never – ever – late, are clean, air conditioned, and people politely line up on platforms waiting for them. It is almost impossible to find a location in the metropolis that cannot be reached by train. As a matter of fact, Shinjuku Station, located in central Tokyo, is ranked number one in the world for the
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Automation Obsession: For all you otaku (geeks) and the technology-obsessed out there: Akihabara is your mecca. From electronic stores packed with the latest gadgets to stores that cater only to manga and anime, you can find almost anything that will fit your interests. As a matter of fact, Softbank, a Japanese mobile company, recently unveiled “Pepper,” an emotional humanoid robot created to administer to the “kawaii” or cute culture of Japan. “Pepper” is set to go on sale in the US within the next year. One more thing: automated heated toilet seats. It’s the sort of thing that you don’t realize you need in your life until you’ve tried it.
Delicious Cuisine: Tokyo is considered the gastronomical capital of the world, and the number of options is simply overwhelming. The Japanese put an incredible amount of attention and precision into their cooking. Fresh food has a stringent definition in Japan, and it is not surprising that the world’s largest fish market is located in the heart of Tokyo. One of my favorite restaurants in the city is Miyagawa in the Aoyama ward. Popular among locals and tourists alike, this compact and intimate restaurant which seats approximately fifteen people at a time serves
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The Nightlife: From dance clubs and bars to private karaoke rooms, the nightlife in Tokyo is astounding. If you are ready to experience a unique evening, Roppongi or Shibuya should be your go-to locales, where one can meet a myriad of people at the clubs and bars. If you find that dance clubs are not your scene, grab a few friends, hit up a karaoke lounge, and sing the night away. But, be careful, it’s easy to blow your allowance or salary on a round of drinks. Did I mention that you can also buy beer from vending machines and that Japanese alcohol is of higher quality? In fact, drinking in public is morally accepted, and drinking every night is fundamental-
ly okay. That’s not to say that the Japanese are binge-drinkers - drinking is essentially seen as a form of enthusiastic socialization.
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Safety: You can leave your laptop, keys, wallet and phone to save tables. You can also walk around at three in the morning and not have to worry about your personal safety. In fact, it is not uncommon to see elementary school children commuting to and from school alone on the metro. There is virtually no threat of being mugged, assaulted, or swindled. Think of Tokyo as a utopian city.
Tokyo is far too polite and humble of a city to brag, but let’s face it - we all want to pay a visit. From its worldclass food to its innovative fashion and culture, it’s no surprise that Tokyo was chosen as the host for the 2020 Olympics. So, the next time you decide to plan a family trip, don’t forget to include Tokyo on your list of potential cities to visit.
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PARIS GRATUIT ATLHKNEJC PDA ?EPU BKN BNAA
by Carolyn Grace photos by Carolyn Grace & Nolan Burger
With its high fashion, fine cuisine, and rich cultural history, Paris seems like a city that would break the bank. Surprisingly, you can still enjoy the City of Lights and Love sans euros thanks to its initiatives to make many of its major cultural and historical attractions completely accessible to the public. Here are some things that you can do in Paris absolutely for free.
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tour the monuments
The Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, Sacré-Coeur Basilica, Notre-Dame Cathedral, Pantheon, Père-Lachaise cemetery: the list goes on and on. You can’t miss the classic Paris sights and photo ops. Most monuments do have a fee if you want to go up to their lookout points, but you can still enjoy their beauty and historical gravitas from ground level.
visit a museum
You can visit some of the most popular museums in Paris for free on the first Sunday of each month. Among these include the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, as well as unique favorites like the Centre Georges Pompidou and the Musée Rodin. Some museums in Paris are free all the time, like the Musée Carnavalet, the Maison de Balzac, and the Maison de Victor Hugo. You can find the full list of when museums are free at en.parisinfo.com.
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Stroll in a garden
Regardless of the weather, Paris’s charm is best enjoyed with a walk or picnic in one of its many beautiful gardens. Major ones include the Jardin du Luxembourg, the Tuileries, La Promenade Plantée, Parc Monceau, the Jardin des Plantes, Buttes Chaumont, and Parc du Champ de Mars. Outside of the city center, the Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes make great afternoon get aways and are each almost triple the size of Central Park. At left: Arc de Triomphe, below: Jardin du Luxembourg
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The Grand Galerie de l’Évolution, part of the French National Museum of Natural History, in the Jardin des Plantes
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explore a NEIGHBORHOOD
Paris has many free walking tours, although it’s recommended that you tip your guide. So if you prefer to go solo, there’s no better way to get to know Paris than wandering through its neigborhoods, whether it be the trendy Marais, bougie St. Germain, artsy Montmartre, the literary Latin quarter, or the up-and-coming Canal St. Martin area. And you can never go wrong with walking along the banks of the Seine to see the famous bridges, whether the classic Pont Neuf or somewhat controversial Pont des Arts (the love lock bridge).
Go clubbing
Montmarte, Sacre Coeur
That’s right, you can party in Paris for free! Depending on the night you go out, at least. Clubs right off of the Champs Élysées tend to have a particular night where you can enter without a cover fee, and some offer a drink ticket as well. Look out for Wednesday nights at Chez Régine or Club 79 and Fridays at Chez Papillon.
see high fashion
So maybe you don’t have the euros to experience Paris Fashion Week, but that doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the city’s hottest haute couture. On Mondays and Fridays at 3 pm, France’s finest fashions are free for all to see at the twice-weekly fashion shows at the Galeries Lafayette. Just make sure you reserve a seat by email or telephone. Plus, window shopping is always free at any of the other grands magasins (department stores) like Le Bon Marché, BHV, and Printemps.
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DISCOVER A fESTIVAL
Every June 21st, La Fête de la Musique allows amateur and professional musicians to put on free concerts anywhere and everywhere in Paris. This musical celebration welcomes all genres from pop to jazz and everything in between. Also once a year, Paris throws open its doors for Nuit Blanche, an all-night arts and culture extravaganza. Galleries, stately buildings, the metro, and even swimming pools are free and stay open until dawn. stampedmag.com
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unconventionally
abroad
feature
article and photos by Adrian Rios
FEATURE
, GLG LW , GLG LW , GLG LW ly
I often find myself repeating those words whenever I think about my abroad experience. It has been almost one year to the day since I hesitantly got on that plane leaving LAX, and I still have difficulty finding the words to describe everything. Now that I’ve had the time to sit and actually think about the significance – if any – about studying abroad, I think I now know why it’s been so hard for me to describe my experience. Studying abroad was everything I wanted and everything I was avoiding at the same time. It was tiring, but rejuvenating. Eye opening, but restricting. The best thing I’ve ever done and the worst decision I’ve ever made. Studying abroad took everything out of me but somehow made me whole again, in a way never before imaginable.
WKH SURFHVV A year and a half ago – the summer before my junior year – I looked into the available study abroad programs in the Middle East. As an International Relations and Middle Eastern Studies major, I felt that studying abroad would be a great experience and a necessary academic endeavour. I wanted to both improve my Arabic and put theory into practice by learning about Middle Eastern politics through a local lens. I also wanted to go the road less traveled (quite literally), and explore an unconventional country for study abroad. If the location was different, then my experience would be extra unique, right?
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I felt no other choice but to petition to study at the American University of Beirut (AUB), where both Arabic and English were spoken, and the majority of students were locals. After a gruesome petition process – filled with multiple essays, required emails of support by my major advisors, stamps of approval by various academic departments, and multiple meetings with security advisors – my petition was accepted, and I began making plans for what promised to be the best five months of my life.
WKH H[SHULHQFH In a lot of ways it was exactly that. I met incredible people from around the globe who all came to the same city for a new experience. I ate at one of the best shawarma stands in the world, and I walked through ancient forts that protected the Phoenicians from invading forces. I hiked on a mountainous trail that bordered different landscapes--snow, sand, and hard dirt all shared the same path. I learned Lebanese Arabic and practiced it well enough that my accent was close to undetectable in taxis. I sat in classes with windows that overlooked the Mediterranean, and on more than one occasion I spontaneously took a taxi to go lose myself in the crowded city. I snuck into a gated university and hiked up one of the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stairs, where the roof â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s patio had a breathtaking view of the downtown skyline. I drank and danced until 3am on multiple occasions, and I talked Lebanese politics on a rooftop bar with students my age who lived through a devastating war during their childhood.
Yet in the midst of these once-in-a-lifetime experiences, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a less glamorous, more hidden side of studying abroad. Living in Lebanon came with a plethora of security concerns, as ongoing proxy wars between various militant groups continued throughout my stay, and my anxiety always convinced me I might be at the wrong place at the wrong time. I was also forced to acknowledge the incredibly heartbreaking plight of Syrian refugees, as countless families lined the sidewalks and begged for money to feed their starving children. While at the university, making friends was especially difficult since most students naturally moved in and out of French, Arabic, and English, which left me struggling to understand even the simplest of sentences. Everyday tasks became missions, as daily power outages could trap people in the elevators and I had to carry jugs of store-bought water up a small hill to my apartment because the running water was not drinkable.
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FEATURE
KRZHYHU
my most difficult experience came at absolutely no fault to Lebanon. The sudden death of a parent brought insurmountable difficulties that only further complicated what was already the most difficult time in my life. I was forced to deal with one of lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worst challenges almost completely by myself, with my family and best friends on the other side of the world. To say I felt alone would be a scratch off the surface of emotions I had. It was emotional and physical torture - to be isolated from everyone I loved yet forced to suffer through unbearable pain. But to this day I must remember that this was not normal, and to conflate this horrible experience with my memories of Lebanon would be a disservice to the country that gave me so much.
WKH WDNHDZD\ Studying abroad is hard, and anyone who says it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t is lying. I think the rhetoric surrounding study abroad dangerously sets unrealistic expectations for everyone. From London to Hong Kong, Buenos Aires to Egypt, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re expected to have nothing less than the best experience of our lives no matter where we are. Many participants are guilty (myself included) of endless Facebook updates and Flickr albums that perpetuate the myth of the â&#x20AC;&#x153;study abroad vacationâ&#x20AC;?: if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not on the beach, in the clubs, or near some famous landmark then youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re doing study abroad wrong. It is a huge disservice to others and ourselves if we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t equally mention the hardships of studying abroad. Although we might
want to forget them, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re nonetheless integral parts of our experiences. I think the hardest part of reflecting is not giving into this myth that your abroad experience depends on taking the best pictures with the best people in the best places. If thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you want, take a vacation for a week, because living and studying abroad is hard. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exciting, adventurous, and often filled with tasty alcohol and endless carbs. But it can also be exhausting, lonesome, or even filled with tears and heartache. My abroad experience is very much a part of me â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a part I cherish but also find it hard to talk about.
Studying abroad in Lebanon was the
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experience of my life, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m still coming to terms with it.
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Woodstock $ OLWWOH JDUGHQ RI EL]DUUH
by Sarah Zandi photos by Rachel Rosenblum
If you’re looking for a piece of
A m e r i c a n a, Woodstock is the place. My cousin Jane and I were driving through upstate New York on our way to a concert this summer, when we decided to take a detour to the nearby town of Woodstock—not exactly where the legendary 1969 concert was held (that’s Bethel), but close enough. It was a quintessentially cinematic road trip—two girls in a car, singing along to the
Beach Boys, young and vaguely bohemian in our flip flops and long hair, on our way to make a grab for an experience in national lore. The drive was one of the best parts, long strips of back road pavement parallel to the curvature of the Adirondacks, red farmhouses, cows, roadside ice cream stores. The mountains were the fresh, vibrant green that make you feel like they’re giving oxygen back to you instantaneously; the tree canopies pulsated, alive, Edenic, almost alien in their purity. I couldn’t get Cheryl Strayed or Jon Krakauer or Thoreau out of my head that whole stampedmag.com
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IMPRESSIONS
trip. It sounds like something a person on some kind of psychedelic might say, but the ride up made me want to be with the trees. Woodstock itself is a little garden of bizarre tucked between the mountains. We pulled into its weekly flea market, which spanned the length of the entire town, and found vendors selling mostly turquoise and tie-dye. The town is, and not unexpectedly, geriatric—it’s easy to imagine that a fair amount of people who came to this place forty years ago decided it felt about right, and never left. When Jane and I took part in the Sunday drum circle, filled with little kids and their grandparents, we met an extremely old couple, also extremely in love, who looked like they’d started tripping back in 1969 and never came down. The old man was Gandalf in a long purple dress, and he and his wife flashed us peace signs while they danced and handed us flyers promoting homeless rights. It wouldn’t be hard to conclude, jadedly, that Woodstock residents spend most of their time try-
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ing to keep that feeling of a monumental concert and 1969 values of peace and love alive. Groups of people on the sidewalks advertised spiritual prayer sessions and yoga classes in an homage to the George Harrison-inspired adoption of Buddhist philosophy. Peace signs popped up every few feet. It was almost tragic, that the hippie vibe of twentieth century counter culture still thrived in this mostly forgotten upstate New York hamlet. I almost wanted them to move on. Almost, but not quite. Even a cynic can recognize when people are truly in tune and at peace with themselves. It is certain that Woodstock has adopted part of its mythology and thus mythologized itself to fit the story the country wanted to tell. It is also entirely possible that the counterculture still thrives, alive and well, in a little town up the Hudson and makes itself over as a tourist attraction so that the flame never really dies. The commodification may exist, but so does the story. And the story is well worth the visit.
IMPRESSIONS
hostelling VROR For an introvert such as myself, the prospect of hostelling alone for a summer posed no small quandary. On one hand, I recognized that, once abroad, I couldn’t go it alone. The goal of a trip should be to engage locals and fellow travelers alike, to see life from their vantage. Why bother exploring if only to cordon yourself off from these experiences? At the same time, though, I understood that I would need to overcome a dose of social anxiety. Hostelling solo would entail confronting a harsh reality, one I too often try to insulate myself from: I'd have to come out of my shell. Sparing no self-pity, I determined that the odds were stacked against me. There would be no anchor friend to guide me through the travails of meeting new people. No translator to help me overcome the language barriers. No mutual notion of savoirfaire to which I could defer. No one to help me but myself. Consequently, I envisaged each encounter as another futile attempt at going through the motions of friend forging. Fortunately, reality was not so grave. Upon settling in to the culture of hostels, I found that the ob-
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stacles that ordinarily keep me from being more sociable ceased to be. I started to embrace extroversion and the heady fulfillment that came from befriending other travelers. Each conversation, each shared meal was a testament to the ease of finding companionship in a scenario where I thought I’d be the most vulnerable to loneliness. Herein lies the beauty of hostelling: it is structured to facilitate instant camaraderie. As any shy person will tell you, rehearsing small talk is tantamount to torture; hostelling brilliantly defuses the need to. Submerged in the unfamiliar, I neither had reason to broach the mundane nor the need to stomach the stale. With other travelers, I was always most keen to discuss where they had been and their impressions. “You’re just coming back from Sarajevo? I’m heading there next. Where I should stay? What should I eat? How should I get there?” Because I was planning my trip as I went, I devoured the tips they had to offer: “Splurge on Balkan Han… Don’t skip the ćevapi…Tito’s trains are bloody awful but there’s no better way.”
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by Asher Sendyk photo by Nolan Burger
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IMPRESSIONS
This trend also extended to chats with locals themselves. Blithely hanging in the lobby one afternoon, I decided to strike up a talk with an employee of Hostel Dubrovnik Sunset. Somewhere between her broken English and my five token phrases of Serbo-Croat, we discussed guilty pleasures (cigarettes for her, chocolate for me), nostalgia for home (as she was herself a Bosnian ex-pat), and the drudgery of living under a dictator (this part of the conversation was decidedly one-sided). Our talk even rung poetic when it devolved into a discussion of her daughter’s love interest, a notorious flirt: “Women are ice cream on a sunny day. All melt when he’s around.” I couldn’t recount the last time I heard someone employ metaphor so adroitly (let alone in a foreign tongue). Perhaps of even greater import is how hostelling engenders empathy in utter strangers. Among travelers there exists a tacit understanding robust enough to allay any of the awkwardness that comes with meeting new people. On the road, we each want- and are cognizant that others want- the same three things: a warm bed, a full stomach, and decent company. Whenever I arrived at a hostel, having just lugged my pack from some far-flung bus stop, others instantly recognized my weariness. All I had to do was to show some baseline level of interest and the hostel-goers who had already settled in unfailingly invited me to break bread, have drinks, and swap stories. In a revolving door of reciprocity, when these people had departed, I, myself, took on the role of the welcoming committee. Hostelling organically foments an air of inclusion. Before the summer, I had been told of the various virtues of traveling. My sociologist friend, informed me that I’d instantly come to value cultures other than my own. A gastronome remarked that I’d have the privilege of enjoying a whole new palette of flavors. And my “cool” uncle, insisted I’d return with a newfound “appreciation for foreign women.” Yet, each neglected to tell me of what would be the greatest takeaway from my travels. Having thrived in social situations that I typically loathe, I developed a supreme confidence. In each scenario into which I was thrust, I was sure that I would emerge the victor over my own inhibitions. Now I know that if I can surmount my shyness overseas- in lands of new people, new languages, and new customs- I’m sure I can do it back at home.
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IMPRESSIONS
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IMPRESSIONS
LIONS of by Gillian Reny Photos by Gillian Reny and Sophia Tareen The first time I went to Africa, I was in kindergarten. I was far too young to appreciate the wild adventure on which my family was embarking. I was far more elated for the Pringles that our guide kept in a secret compartment of his jeep, rather than the cheetah hunt that we were so fortunate to witness firsthand. However, in the spring of my sophomore year of high school I was thrilled to find out I was getting a second chance to relive this adventure: we were going to South Africa. Little did I know that this experience would entail the most exhilarating night of my life. Our trip to South Africa consisted of a short stay in Cape Town and then an exploration of various campsites throughout the jungle. After over a week of traveling, we reached our final destination. Londolozi camp was situated on the Sand River in the heart of the Sabi Sand Game Reserve. We arrived to a beautiful campground cocooned seamlessly within the surrounding wildlife. The campsite itself was a beautiful spread of cabins connected by intricate
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LONDOLOZI When fear is the only obstacle
walkways. The tall grasses swayed in the wind as they snaked through the tiny cracks in the boardwalk. Each room was contained in its own specific area and centered around the main lodge. Although it was surrounded by wild animals and situated in the heart of the jungle, Londolozi radiated warmth and safety. My sister and I, both animal lovers, were thrilled by the gazelles that bounded throughout the campsite and the wild boars that rolled around in the mud pile next to our cabin. We itched for adventure and were eager to take on everything that Londolozi had to offer. When our guide Mark told us about the option to embark on a nighttime safari, we were immediately intrigued. On our last night, we headed out. With full bellies and racing hearts we piled into the jeeps and set out into the jungle. The sun sunk below the Drakensberg Mountains, and dusk settled over the bush. As the sun disappeared below the horizon, warm colors radiated through the sky into a sensational mosaic. We could feel a change in the atmosphere as the light vanished
and the bush turned silent and mysterious. Soon, the stars and the soft gleam of the headlights were our only guide. Our jeep consisted of my sister, my mom, my dad, our guide Mark, and our tracker, Sandros. Sandros was a veteran tracker at the camp: his father had worked as a tracker before him, and he was currently teaching his own son the intricacies that went into this unique trade. Both men knew the ins and outs of the terrain like it was the back of their hand. We trekked, noiseless through the jungle, our eyes pealed to register any movement within the long grass. As we journeyed deeper into the wilderness, a furtive stillness engulfed us. The low hum of the truck, swishing of the grass, and melodious croaking of wild frogs filled the thick air. We heard daytime birds offering a final call before settling down for the night. Noisy baboons jostled for sleeping positions in their favorite tree. A barn owl offered a harrowing screech in the distance. Our eyes slowly adjusted to the dark and I could begin making
out the enormous baobab trees that danced before us. The landscape had transformed entirely since our safari ride that afternoon. Suddenly, Mark and Sandros both gasped and excitedly pointed to a barely visible movement, deep in the grass that stretched out before us. At first, only a brown tuft peaked out, just barely visible over the sea of tall grass. The heavy thump of paws on the jungle floor echoed through the darkness. Seconds later, an enormous lion emerged through the brush, a wild mane encircling his regal face and his lips curling back to expose his razor-sharp grin. My heart raced within my chest, and I clutched my sisterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand, transfixed with fear and awe. As the lion approached the jeep, his long limbs stretched out before him, and I could fully register just how enormous he was. At this point, he could not have been
more than four or five feet from our vehicle. He stared at us with an unmatched intensity, and I could feel my face growing purple from holding my breath. After what felt like hours, he finally looked away, bored, and turned to walk away from the car. Like it was second nature, Mark quickly turned the wheel of the jeep to follow the lion as he continued on his way. After this initial staring contest, the lion made no acknowledgement of either our group or the jeep for the rest of the night. We followed behind him so closely that, at one point, I swear I could have reached out and stroked my hand through his tangled mane. After following him for a few minutes, we observed another rustle within the grass and a beautiful, slender female lion materialized before us. She growled softly, and the first lion answered with a low rumble.
He nudged her neck in as if to say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hello.â&#x20AC;? After this brief interaction, the two finally turned and tread side-by-side, deeper into the bush. We continued to follow behind, led by these two majestic creatures. We moved further into the jungle, through small streams, around enormous trees, and through wild swinging vines. I could not believe these wild creatures were letting us follow them so closely. I was drunk on thrill and excitement, but also terrified for my life. At times the lions would disappear into the grass, and all we could hear was their jagged breaths; they always reappeared, as if they were our own personal tour guides. We followed them throughout the rest of the night and silently observed their nighttime routine and interactions. Hyenas and other bush creatures skidded away from the enormous cats as they roamed the jungle like royalty. We finally arrived back at Londolozi around two in the morning, exhausted, but also giddy with adrenaline. Collapsing into my pillows that night, I fell into a deep sleep, reliving the unforgettable adventure of the night.
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HONG KONG, CHINA
STREETSIGHTING BEIJING. C
HINA
BANGKOK,THAILAND
MADRID, SPAIN
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HOI AN,VIE
TNAM
MACAU
PARIS, FRANCE
COLONIA DEL SAC RAMENT URUGUA O, Y
photos by B
renda Nguye
n, Charlene
You & Adria
n Rios
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editor commentary
in
defense RI
contradiction Human beings are fickle creatures, and we populate a world rife with inconsistencies.
The more I travel, the more my inherently contradictory thoughts surface with increasing frequency.
I might tell you one afternoon about the importance of being an informed consumer, and then purchase a pair of questionably-produced sneakers online that very evening. Or we may discuss the merits of friendship and forgiveness, only to return home for summer break to fight selfishly with our respective families. These are the negative incarnations of the contradiction inherent in human nature: it looks a lot like hypocrisy.
I’ve noticed my collection of notebooks grow dramatically over this time. None of them are full. They vary in size, color, and length and their content is similarly unpredictable. I didn’t create this stockpile out of carelessness or a poor attention span, but out of necessity—out of response to my complicated, self-contradicting relationship with travel.
But hypocrisy is not the only possibility. In fact, learning how to function despite—and in open recognition of—contradiction is also what allows for a balanced approach to life. This technique creates space for intellectual debate and discussion. It provides the capacity to simultaneously respect and disagree with others’ beliefs and opinions. It is, therefore, an essential tool for learning about the world. In the context of travel, contradictions’ potential usefulness magnifies. By definition, travel is a pilgrimage towards newness—new places, new people, new ideas. The healthiest way to approach such novelty is to expect cognitive dissonance and press into conflicting experiences. If you listen to me talk about travel, you’ll probably hear me articulate the various dangers of sentimentalism, or elaborate on the many ways one might appreciate a new culture without fetishizing it. But I, too, take selfies with the Eiffel Tower. And when I describe Iceland, I rave on about the “impossibly beautiful nature and unbelievably kind people.” I am only averse to sentimentalism, not immune to it.
My journal collection has become a way of holding multiple conflicting ideas or feelings in my hands without going crazy. In one, I jot down notes from conversations and descriptions of people and places around me. In another, I let myself explode with saccharine nostalgia. In a third, my critical voice dominates; I tackle hard questions, internal and practical difficulties posed by new contexts. You might not be the kind of traveler that keeps a journal close by. Maybe you prefer photography or conversation to a ballpoint pen. But whatever your outlet, leave room for contradiction. Suppressing experiences will only muddy your memories. If you never take the opportunity to be sentimental, it will forever taint your attempts to be critical. If you are nothing but sentimental, your stories and memories will fall flat—they will put travel on an unattainable pedestal. The challenge here is not to control the way you interact with travel. It is simply to be self-aware. If we are more conscious of the inconsistent ways in which we experience and process travel, we will be better at actually learning and growing from our journeys.
by Nolan Burger Managing Editor 30 STAMPED | Spring 2015
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