BAKER

Matt eson Koche

EL BAGEL

Bagels and lox were always breakfast staples in the Koche family, but with access only to corporate bagel delis, Matteson Koche didn’t know what he was missing. After studying international relations at the University of Central Florida and receiving his masters in urban planning at Florida State University in 2015, Koche became a projects coordinator for an architecture rm. One year later, he quit his unful lling job and embarked upon a sur ng trip across South America. In Buenos Aires, he met Sheikob’s Bagels owner Jacob Eichenbaum-Pikser, who inspired Koche to hand-roll some bagels of his own. He returned home to study from the internet and master the art of bagel-making.

In January 2017, El Bagel was born out of his home in Little Haiti to specialize in hand-rolled, long-fermented, home-baked sourdough bagels, delivered from Koche’s car. Five months later, he got a ’91 Cushman Truckster pastelito cart to start a pop-up every Saturday at Wynwood’s Boxelder Craft Beer Market. He left urban planning entirely in 2018 to focus on El Bagel, which had by then upgraded to a full-size food truck.

While he baked out of a commissary kitchen, Koche felt a pull to have his own brick-andmortar. He spent a year setting up the shop, which opened in March 2020 on Miami’s Upper East Side. Nine days later, the pandemic prevented guests from entering. Koche adapted quickly, moving the truck to Lincoln Road for walk-up orders and making the shop pickuponly. With long digital queues of customers waiting for his bagels—by the dozen and by the sandwich—Koche shows no signs of slowing down or looking back.

mattteson / elbagel

Favorite kitchen tool: Spiral mixer Tool you wish you had: A second spiral mixer Favorite food resource: My mother Most important kitchen rule: Don't be scared to 86—it's better than forcing it and messing everything up. Where you eat on your nights o : If it's a Sunday night, I usually need to acquire the most substantial meal I can nd to recover from the weekend. ese days, it’s been a ribeye from Jaguar Sun accompanied by light beers and mezcal shots at the darkest bar I can nd.

Advice to your younger self: You can do it, too.

BLUNT WILL PHOTOS:

King Guava Baker Matteson Koche of El Bagel Adapted by StarChefs Yield: 1 bagel sandwich

INGREDIENTS

Lemon Cream Cheese:

Salt Lemon juice Plain cream cheese

Papitas:

Shredded potatoes, soaked in water Oil for deep frying Salt

Guava Marmalade:

Guava, pureéd Sugar

To Assemble and Serve:

1 salt bagel, halved Fried over-medium egg Crispy bacon (optional) METHOD

For the Lemon Cream Cheese:

Add salt and a couple drops of lemon juice to cream cheese. Lightly whip to incorporate air.

For the Papitas:

Strain potatoes, squeezing out as much water as possible. Place on paper towels to dry. Place potatoes in a deep fryer and fry for 4 minutes or until golden brown. Season with salt.

For the Guava Marmalade:

Add guava purée to a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a soft boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to low and add sugar. Continue to cook until slightly thickened and sugar completely dissolved. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Transfer to a nonreactive container and reserve.

To Assemble and Serve:

Schmear Lemon Cream Cheese on both bagel halves. On one half, spread a generous amount of Guava Marmalade and top with fried egg, followed by Papitas and bacon (if using). Sandwich with the other half, slice, wrap in paper, and serve.