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6 minute read
Farm cuisine: Everything but the squeal
A steak, burger or brats on the grill whether oatmeal should be cooked with with vegetables on the side, a salad, rolls water or milk, with at least a compromise and a refreshing dessert – sounds like a agreement that it should never be microtasty menu for any Memorial Day get-to- waved and always cooked on the stove. gether. There was milk soup, which had a milk
Food is dear to our hearts and for base along with old dried bread, with a little good reason: We need it every day. sugar added or, on good days, dumplings.
While visiting with friends at a party Looking into this, milk soup was a big deal over the weekend, the topic of conver- in Europe, which is why it was part of meals sation turned to food. The food we were eating was delicious, of course, but the Random Refl ections by Diane Leukam on the farm. When the cows were milking heavier (think “June Dairy Month”) the conversation turned to food cooked on milk needed to be used and not wasted. My the farm years ago. Everyone at the ta- husband had this often while growing up ble had grown up on a farm and a common thread and while it wasn’t his personal favorite, it was a norwas evident: Nothing was wasted and the old phrase, mal part of life. “everything was used but the squeal” came into play. Milk soup was considered peasant food at the
There was talk of blood sausage and memories of time but, today in Switzerland, “milchsuppe” is iconmaking it in a basement. In fact, my own kids love it, ic and considered a delicacy, garnering the attention having made it with their grandparents. I have never of some of the best chefs. There is quite a history betried it, and the thought of it makes my stomach feel hind milchsuppe and honestly, I would like to try one queasy. of the many recipes available online. Some of them
Animal organs like cow tongues and liver and look really good! onions were on the discussion menu, which didn’t Don also remembers collecting dandelion greens help my stomach, either. for salad. His mom made them with bacon and onion
Scrapple was a dish made of all the extra piec- with a vinegar dressing. es of pork when butchering and likely included bits A favorite of his was strawberry bread in early of head meat, along with the heart and liver. It was summer. Fresh strawberries were mashed with cream cooked until very tender, then minced and mixed and a little sugar, and the mixture served over freshly with fl our and spices. It was formed into a loaf and baked homemade bread. With fi ve boys and one girl chilled. Later, it was thinly sliced and fried. I vaguely in the family, the last one to the table was out of luck. remember scrapple and thinking it tasted good. Many of the menu items we talked about began
Then, there’s head cheese, which really has noth- centuries ago in Europe. Absolutely nothing was ing to do with cheese. The head of a pig is cooked wasted, because starvation was real. When the Euroand a sort of meat jelly forms. Other ingredients like peans immigrated to America, those traditional foods organ meats, salt, pepper, onion powder and a host of were brought along with them. seasonings are added. When it all gels together, it is That was really not so long ago. Those were days sliced and eaten with or without vinegar, on its own of cows, pigs, chickens and large gardens on most or on crackers. It sounds fancier when described as of our farms. They needed the meat, milk, eggs and a paté. vegetables to raise a large family, and they did it well.
I can’t bring myself to eat that either. My hus- Some of that is coming back as people are trying to band, Don, jokes that he was ready to try it once but, become more self-sustaining on their properties. We when he looked closer, he noticed there was an eye are in our ninth year of publishing Country Acres, and looking at him from within the head cheese. In real- I have personally seen this movement taking place. ity, the eyes and brain are removed before cooking More and more, people are fi nding joy in producing the head. their own food on their place in the country, and why
On a less meaty note, there was a discussion of not? There’s room to grow.
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Milchsuppe
(Milk Soup With Dumplings )
• 4 cups milk • 2 eggs • 3/4 to 1 cup fl our • 1/4 tsp. salt or chicken base • 2 Tbsp. water • 2 Tbsp. butter
Mix eggs, water, salt and fl our. Dough should be sticky. Add a little water if it seems too dry. Heat milk on medium high. Drop 1/2 teaspoonfuls of dough in hot milk. Stir often so milk doesn’t burn to bottom of pan. Cook dumplings about 7 minutes, add butter. Salt and pepper to taste.
Variations: You can make a sweetened version of this by adding 2 Tbsp. sugar to the milk, and some nutmeg to the dumpling batter. In some recipes, the dumplings are made lighter by separating the eggs and whipping the egg whites fi rst. Recipe by kitchenproject.com.
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Milchsuppe und Schnee
(Milk Soup and Snow)
• 1 quart milk • 2 tablespoons sugar • 1 vanilla stick • 1 Tbsp. cornstarch • 2 egg yolks • 2 egg whites, beaten stiff • Cinnamon
Cook milk with sugar and vanilla stick. Dissolve cornstarch in a little cold milk. Add to milk and sugar and bring to boiling point. Add beaten egg yolks and remove vanilla. Drop stiffl y beaten egg whites from spoon on to hot soup. Sprinkle with cinnamon and cover. Let stand until cool. Serve cool with sliced strawberries. Recipe by Vintage Recipes. You know you are a farmer when your wife always greets you with those three little words: “Pew, you stink!”
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*Reprinted with permission from “The Farmer’s Bathroom Book,” by Marvin Jensen.
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