RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE ISSUE 16/2024

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK

DEAR READERS

In this edition, we’ve focused on the growth and well-being of our adorable puppies. We’ve gathered advice from experienced breeders to help new puppy owners nurture their pets and ensure a smooth transition to their new homes. This is important for shaping a happy and confident dog.

We’d like to thank The South African Rhodesian Ridgeback Club (SARRC) for their report and beautiful photos from a recent show. It’s always great to see updates from this region, and we’re sure our readers will enjoy this inside look into these events.

A special thanks goes to Barbara for her insightful column. Her passion and dedication shine through, and we’re confident her words will inspire readers to think deeply about the breed. We believe Barbara is truly dedicated to improving the breed, and her contributions are valuable.

Finally, we want to express our gratitude to all our contributors and advertisers. Their hard work has helped us create an engaging and informative magazine, and we hope every reader finds something they love in this edition.

We hope you enjoy this issue and look forward to sharing more exciting content in our December edition!

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RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK EU MAGAZINE

ISSUE 16 / AUGUST - SEPTEMBER 2024

EDITOR

MAGAZINE TEAM

ASSOCIATE / TRANSLATIONS

ASSISTANT EDITOR AND TRANSLATOR

TIMMY U. RALFE (SOUTH AFRICA)

JUDGE AND AUTHOR.

LAYOUT DESIGN & GRAPHICS

SNEŽKA KURALT STARR DESIGN (SLOVENIA)

SALES & PR

ZHANNA GODJAJEVA (LATVIA)

AN ACTIVE STUD RR OWNER WHO LOVES TRAVELLING AROUND THE EUROPE SHOWING RR.

OFFICIAL DESIGNERS

SNEŽKA KURALT - STARR DESIGN (SLOVENIA) FCI JUDGE SPECIALIST, RR OWNER, GRAPHIC DESIGNER

LICENCE OWNER

SNEŽKA KURALT

COLUMN by

Barbara Turpin

GETTING AHEAD OF THE BIG “C”

TURPIN TIME

Thank you to Snežka for giving me a regular column in this beautiful magazine. I hope to bring thought-provoking information that benefits our breed as a whole.

My heart sinks every time I read about someone’s Rhodesian Ridgeback being diagnosed or succumbing to cancer. Whenever I’m asked, “What do I do now?” My response is, “Turn back the hands of time.”

Prevention over treatment. As much as possible, it is up to breeders to do everything in their power to prevent cancers and destroy free radicals before they can take hold. There are some generic preventatives that I will discuss, as well as some breed-specific preventatives.

According to Rodney Habib (planetpaws.ca), coauthor of The Forever Dog, The Forever Dog Life, and TedTalk presenter, 50% of all dogs will get cancer if they live long enough. We know that Rhodesian Ridgebacks have a disproportionately high incidence of cancers, so that number is even greater in our breed.

It is up to breeders to help minimize the propensities for cancer, but how? There is a lot of information online. Some of it is misguided. Some is spot on. Let’s go down the rabbit hole together and start talking about this more. By no means is this column the be-all and end-all of the conversation, but I hope to share some of my experiences and discoveries that have made a significant difference in the quality and length of life in my dogs.

I’ve been in purebred dog fancy for most of my 62 years. Our family’s first purebred dog, a Whippet, was acquired in 1963—when I was just one year old. I grew up around top Whippet breeders who produced noteworthy race and show dogs. We held race meets at our home where top breeders,

including the late, great Louis Pegram (author of The Complete Whippet), would sit around the campfire discussing everything from type, breeding practices, and feeding to amazing and amusing stories about Whippets. I learned so much by osmosis in those early years.

Feeding racing Whippets for optimum performance fascinated me. In the early 1980s, I became a weight-lifting instructor and competitive bodybuilder. Diet is so important to athletes in both sports. I learned a lot about diet conducive to building muscle, the benefits of carb loading, foods and supplements that help muscles recover after the stress of training, and yes, I learned about the dangers of free radicals from a scientist friend who was inducted into the BC Sports Medicine Hall of Fame.

Free radicals. This is the most important term to learn, aside from anti-oxidants, that will help on the road to prevention of cancers. And without the purposeful inclusion of anti-oxidants/immune boosters, your Rhodesian Ridgeback has a greater than 50% chance of a cancer diagnosis in its lifetime.

The big shift. In 2009, I had two dogs diagnosed with cancer within two months of each other. I was devastated. For one, I was too late and lost her that year. For the other, she lived for another ten years until she was nearly 16 years old based on the changes I made to her diet.

Now, before we dive too deeply into diet, it cannot be overstated that quality of life is another critical component of minimizing cancers. Fresh air, meaningful adventures, praise, and love all play such an important role in fighting free radicals. It’s one of the reasons I spend hundreds of hours every year out in the bush and at the river. The dogs have an opportunity to explore, sniff, seek, play, sprint,

stroll, and roll in the dirt. Giving your dogs these freedoms will help to solidify your fight against cancer. Some of the longestlived dogs I’ve known come from owners and breeders who make exploration a priority in their routines. So, get out there and go on adventures when you can!

Back to 2009. My husband, Ray, and I took the dive into researching how we could prevent cancer. I had a lifetime in the fancy, and Ray had 14 years working in the pet food industry. Off we went. One of the first, and most significant, changes that we implemented was throwing out the fish oils and introducing cold-pressed hemp seed oil.

Let’s talk first about fish oils. My First Nations (Canadian indigenous people) friends are mostly lactose intolerant, and the reason why is critical in understanding why fish oils are not a good choice for Rhodesian Ridgebacks. First Nations people do not have a history of dairyproducing livestock. They just didn’t have cows and goats, so their systems are not accustomed to those food products. They are not healthy for them. The same is true for fish. In landlocked Zimbabwe, you just won’t find salmon.

Further, as someone who spends so much time at a salmonbearing river, I can tell you what the dogs have taught me. I’ve been going to the river with the dogs for twenty years. At no time have any of the dogs eaten salmon that is on the banks. They may take a nice stinky roll in them, but eat it? Never. What I have observed is that once the flesh has been picked clean by Eagles, Vultures, and other critters, and once the skin and bones are entirely desiccated into a crispy treat, they will sparingly eat that. By the time they are palatable for Rhodesian Ridgebacks, the oils have leached out of the skin and bones. I watched this happen, year after year, and took my dogs’ word for it—that salmon flesh was neither conducive nor necessary for their health. So I looked into this further to determine why. Being

geographically inappropriate is only one element that makes it a poor choice for oils. Another feature that bears discussion is the potential for mercury poisoning. There appears to be a lot of conflicting information about mercury content in fish oils, particularly salmon oils. That said, I’ve observed a lot of Rhodesian Ridgebacks experiencing pancreatitis attacks after consuming fish products.

According to an article by Nebraska Medicine (nebraskamed.com), people suffering from chronic pancreatitis are twice as likely to develop pancreatic cancer. Preventing pancreatitis in our dogs should be a top priority in your dog’s immune-boosting diet. I’ve had many people argue this point with me, and this is where we need to talk about epigenetics and breeding.

Some people profess that their dog’s health seems to improve with fish oils. If the dog was getting no oils of any sort, yes, an improvement is observed. But, as a breeder, I have to ask myself, What’s going on with the eggs and sperm of future generations? Making one observation does not necessarily mean that we are making the best choices for the parts of the dog that we cannot see—their reproductive systems.

Preventing cancer in Rhodesian Ridgebacks starts well before breeding ever takes place. Healthy eggs and sperm help to minimize the propensity for cancer ever taking hold.

Another negative aspect of fish oils is that they are not a balanced source of EFAs (essential fatty acids) and can impact brain function as well. Sharp temperaments and decreased mental resiliency can manifest in dogs as fish oils are not part of their breed-specific geographical history.

So, why hemp seed oil? The Hound Lab blog (thehoundlab.com) states matters succinctly:

HIGH IN ANTIOXIDANTS

As we have alluded to, hemp seed oil is a natural powerhouse packed with nutrients like good cholesterol, minerals, vitamins, and antioxidants. Specifically, hemp seed oil contains a high concentration of the antioxidant vitamin E, which is important for immunity, disease prevention, cell renewal, and the functioning of many organs in the body.

By supporting the immune system, hemp seed oil helps to fight any toxins that may be picked up in daily dog life.”

In addition to the punch it packs in combating free radicals, other benefits include, but are not limited to:

• Accelerated healing times post surgery/injury

Eliminating seasonal alopecia for good

Improved skin condition

Aids in the production of helpful enzymes

Aids in the repair and growth of lean body mass

Is pesticide-free (hemp is naturally pestresistant)

Hemp is not GMO

Improves brain function and mental resiliency

Since switching to hemp seed oil in 2009, the incidence of cancer in our personal dogs has plummeted. This is very hopeful, but by no means did I stop there.

Another supplemental herb that our dogs get daily is parsley. Yes, parsley! This inexpensive herb that is profoundly easy to grow or buy is jam-packed with restorative elements. I buy it by the pound. In my last order of herbs, I brought in seven pounds of it. Give about one teaspoon powdered per day of parsley to get some of the following benefits:

Antimicrobial and diuretic properties

Enhances digestion and increases nutrient absorption

• Kidney health

• Rich source of folate and iron

• Good source of vitamin K

• Enhances cardiovascular health

• Maintains blood pressure

Bone and joint health

Boosts the immune system

Cancer-fighting properties

Fights inflammation

Eye health

Skin health

Supports gland health

Good source of copper

Good during pregnancy

This is one of the easiest and best things that you can include in your dog’s daily diet that goes a long way in preventing cancer—not just for the dog in front of you, but for generations to come in your breeding prospects.

Medicinal mushrooms are creating a buzz in the human nutrition as well as the canine nutrition world. I add powdered shiitake mushrooms to just about everything, including my dogs’ daily diet. But here’s something you may not know about medicinal mushrooms: the cancer-fighting properties are boosted after steeping! Make a tea with boiling water and add one teaspoon powdered mushrooms per dog and allow to steep while you make the rest of their meal. Better yet, steep it in bone broth. More about that later.

According to organicfacts.net, here are some benefits of shiitake mushrooms:

Incredible amount of antioxidant compounds

Reduces inflammation

Improves circulation

• Improves digestion

• Energy booster

Reduces stress

Boosts immune system

• Aids in repair and growth of all tissues

• Lowers blood sugar

Ouch! If you’ve ever come across stinging nettle in your journeys, you know that it is a plant with a built-in protection component. According to wild crafters, without their stingers, nettles would become extinct. It is so packed with nutrients that every grazing animal would devour it until it no longer existed.

It grows abundantly in the wild but is seasonal, so I also buy it by the pound. As with all vegetables, herbs, and mushrooms, steeping, steaming, or stewing helps to break down the cellular walls and make nutrients more bioavailable.

There is considerable research available on the benefits of nettle. If you want to wildcraft it, here are some things to keep in mind:

Wear long rubber gloves to harvest.

• Have a large bag and snip with scissors into the bag.

Do not harvest an entire patch to respect the plant permaculturally.

• Place a large pot of water to boil on the stove. While still wearing gloves, dump your harvest into the pot.

Turn off the water and let steep for 10-15 minutes.

Save the water to add to food.

Either chop the herb in a food processor or dehydrate and powder for future use.

Earlier this year I had a major shift in my own diet. For my brain health, I switched to a ketogenic diet. It has meant eliminating a lot of foods that I love while opening the door to foods that bring a potent benefit. Interestingly, one of the foods that I have been researching is bone broth.

I have so many healing herbs in my house that I add them to any bone broth that I make. Again, maximizing bioavailability. I noticed the biggest benefit in my senior dogs. Their energy is boosted, and they are more playful. Those two benefits are what is seen. Imagine the benefits we can’t see.

Bone broth is painfully easy to make. Use a stove, instantpot, or pressure cooker to coax out the superhealing nutrients. When making a large batch, you can also freeze any excess for future use—especially when there are puppies on the ground. Because I have multiple dogs, I freeze the broth in zip-lock bags. If you have fewer dogs, you can freeze the excess in ice cube trays and add a cube to each meal.

If possible, source bones that do not come from mass-produced animals. I have a friend who is a hunter and gives me all his deer bones. I buy from a local butcher. You may be wondering why this is important. Again, going back to lessons learned from my First Nations friends, any plant or animal

that is mass produced does not have individual resiliency. Wild or locally raised plants and animals are best.

While we are on the subject of animal products, it’s important to discuss the trend of recommending raw diets without any provisos, understanding of where the animal products originated, or understanding the underlying issue(s).

It is probably my biggest dietary pet peeve. “Raw” is a relative term. What raw doesn’t do:

Solve every dietary problem under the sun. Optimize bio-availability

• Assure that ingredients are well sourced.

• Eliminate foods that are counterproductive for a specific breed.

• Come with decades of research that assures adequate nutrients conducive to daily maintenance.

Address specific issues

I see it all the time. From weight management to immune suppressed conditions, people are recommending raw without any further investigation into what is really going on with the dog. Don’t get me wrong, I feed raw from time to time. But never all the time. I know some folks won’t like hearing this, but there is no evidence that a raw diet alone improves the quality or length of life of their dog.

In fact, according to Rodney Habib, it is balance that is most important. Some kibble. Some raw. Some vegetables. Some oils. And mix it up. Don’t always feed the same food in perpetuity. Variety is one of the leading attributes of a long-lived dog’s diet.

I also switch up supplemental oils. This month I’ve been adding sesame oil and coconut oil to the regular hemp. Conditioning of the skin is done from the inside out. And there are so many really nutritious oils that are fun to research.

While this article doesn’t include every single immune booster that will help to minimize cancers in your Rhodesian Ridgeback, I hope that it encourages you to take a look at your current feeding practices to see if there is room for improvement.

For more information on well-rounded feeding practices, I encourage you to watch Rodney Habib’s TedTalk, “Why don’t dogs live forever?”

WRITTEN BY RR MAGAZINE

MISJUDGED CHAMPIONS THE SILENT VICTIMS OF DOG SHOWS

Dogs Misjudged by Uninformed Judges

The importance of judges being well-educated about breed standards at dog shows cannot be overstated. Dog shows are more than just competitions; they play a crucial role in preserving and promoting the health, functionality, and aesthetic qualities of various breeds.

They serve as a platform to educate the public about different breeds and their standards. Judges who can articulate the reasons behind their decisions help inform and educate exhibitors and spectators. This education fosters a greater appreciation for the diversity of dog breeds and the importance of responsible breeding practices.

Each breed has a unique history and set of characteristics that differentiate it from others. Judges knowledgeable about breed standards help preserve this diversity by ensuring that dogs are judged against criteria specific to their breed rather than a one-size-fits-all approach. This respect for breed-specific traits helps maintain the rich variety of dog breeds that exist today, each with its own unique qualities and contributions.

From Light Wheaten to Red Wheaten: The Impact of Coat Color on Judging

We asked AI to compare:

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a unique and distinguished breed known for its characteristic ridge of hair running along its back. The breed’s coat color is an important aspect of its standard. Here is an overview of the Rhodesian Ridgeback’s coat color as described by various standards around the world:

American Kennel Club (AKC)

The AKC standard specifies that the Rhodesian Ridgeback’s coat should be “light wheaten to red wheaten.” A small amount of white on the chest and toes is permissible, but excessive white, black hair, or any other color is undesirable. The nose can be either black or brown, but the color must complement the coat.

The Kennel Club (UK)

According to The Kennel Club in the UK, the Rhodesian Ridgeback should have a coat color ranging from “light wheaten to red wheaten.” The standard mentions that a little white on the chest and toes is permissible but should be discouraged. The nose can be black, brown, or liver, with the latter often accompanied by amber-colored eyes.

Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI)

The FCI standard also describes the Rhodesian Ridgeback’s color as “light wheaten to red wheaten.” Small white marks on the chest and toes are acceptable, but an excessive amount of white is not desirable. Black hair interspersed in the coat is considered a fault. The nose should be black or brown (liver).

Canadian Kennel Club (CKC)

The CKC specifies that the Rhodesian Ridgeback should have a coat color that is “light wheaten to red wheaten.” Similar to other standards, small white markings on the chest and toes are permissible. The nose can be either black or brown, and the coat color should be clear and not heavily interspersed with black hair.

Australian National Kennel Council (ANKC)

The ANKC standard aligns with the others, describing the acceptable coat colors as “light wheaten to red wheaten.” Small white marks on the chest and toes are permissible. The nose color can be black or brown, and the coat should be free from excessive black hair.

South African Kennel Union (KUSA)

The KUSA standard describes the Rhodesian Ridgeback’s coat color similarly, “light wheaten to red wheaten.” White on the chest and toes is acceptable but should not be excessive. The nose can be black or brown, and the coat should not have an abundance of black hair.

New Zealand Kennel Club (NZKC)

The NZKC standard states that the Rhodesian Ridgeback should have a coat color ranging from “light wheaten to red wheaten.” Small white markings on the chest and toes are allowed, but excessive white is not desirable. The nose should be black or brown.

Across all these standards, the general consensus is that the Rhodesian Ridgeback’s coat should be a shade of wheaten, ranging from light to red wheaten. Small white markings on the chest and toes are generally permissible, but excessive white or black hair interspersed in the coat is undesirable. The nose color can be either black

or brown (liver). While there are slight variations in how much white is permissible and the description of the acceptable shades of wheaten, the core aspects of the standard are remarkably consistent worldwide.

Here are some experiences shared by owners and breeders with their light wheaten dogs in the show ring:

• “The color of the coat is too light.”

• “Wrong color— nonstandard.”

• The owner said, “The judge didn’t even look at my dog; he just passed it and focused on the darker dog.”

• Positive remark from the judge: “It’s great to see this rare color. I’m happy to see it in my ring because they are also beautiful.”

TEXAN ABILENE Moiagioia

TEXAN AMARILLO Moiagioia

TEXAN DAYTON Moiagioia

TEXAN DAYTON Moiagioia

Show Ring Overlook: The Brown Nose (Livernose) Ridgeback Dilemma

In the context of Rhodesian Ridgebacks, a “livernose” dog refers to a specific coloration of the nose and overall pigmentation. Rhodesian Ridgebacks can have one of two nose colors: black or brown. A livernose Ridgeback has a brown nose, which is a result of the liver gene (a recessive trait). This gene also affects the color of the dog’s eyes and paw pads, giving them a lighter, often amber-colored eye and brown paw pads instead of the usual black.

Here’s a bit more detail about livernose Rhodesian Ridgebacks:

• Nose Color: The most distinctive feature is the brown (liver-colored) nose.

• Eye Color: Livernose Ridgebacks typically have lighter, amber-colored eyes compared to the dark brown eyes seen in black-nosed Ridgebacks. The rims of the eyes and the leather part of the lips are also brown.

• Paw Pads and Nails: The paw pads of a livernose Ridgeback are also brown, matching the nose. The nails are often of a lighter colour.

• Coat Color: The coat color remains within the standard range for Rhodesian Ridgebacks, which is light wheaten to red wheaten. The nose color does not affect the coat color.

The liver-nose color of Rhodesian Ridgebacks is purely cosmetic and does not affect the dog’s health or behavior. It is simply one of the acceptable variations in the breed standard recognized by kennel clubs. These standards are designed to maintain the integrity and quality of the breed, focusing on key characteristics such as structure, temperament, and functionality. Cosmetic traits like nose and coat color, while distinctive, do not impact a dog’s health, ability, or overall quality. The primary difference between livernose and black nose Rhodesian Ridgebacks lies in the pigmentation of their noses, eyes, and paw pads. Here are the key distinctions:

Livernose Ridgebacks:

• Nose Color: They have a brown (liver-colored) nose.

• Eye Color: Their eyes are typically lighter, often amber in color.

• Paw Pads: The paw pads are also brown, nails often lighter.

Their coat color remains within the standard range for the breed, from light wheaten to red wheaten. The liver and nose do not affect the overall coat color.

Dark-Nose Ridgebacks:

• Nose Color: They have a black nose.

• Eye Color: Their eyes are usually dark brown.

• Paw Pads: The paw pads are black.

• Coat Color: Like livernose Ridgebacks, their coat color ranges from light wheaten to red wheaten, and the black nose does not influence the coat color.

Lola, by Sabine Mull

Genetic Basis:

• The liver nose is a result of the presence of a recessive gene. For a Ridgeback to have a liver nose, it must inherit two copies of the liver gene (one from each parent).

• The black nose is the result of the dominant gene. If a Ridgeback inherits at least one copy of the black nose gene, it will have a black nose.

Breed Standards:

Both liver-nose and dark-nose Ridgebacks are considered acceptable within the breed standards set by major kennel clubs, such as the American Kennel Club (AKC) and the Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI). There is no preference for one over the other in terms of show standards or breed quality.

The differences between liver-nose and darknose Ridgebacks are purely cosmetic and based on genetic variations. Both types fall within the acceptable standards of the breed and do not differ in terms of health, temperament, or overall quality. When it comes to the judging of Rhodesian Ridgebacks at dog shows, it is essential that all dogs are evaluated fairly and equitably, regardless of their nose or coat color. The breed standard recognizes both liver-nose and black-nose Ridgebacks, and neither should be favored or disadvantaged based on these cosmetic differences.

Here are some experiences shared by owners and breeders with their brown-nosed dogs in the show ring:

• "Well, that can’t be a purebred Ridgeback; it has the wrong color nose."

• "That can’t be a Ridgeback; it looks more like a Vizsla."

• Often, a judge just doesn’t place the dog and discusses it with other judges after the

judging or asks the steward if it is correct. Owner says: As long as the color is in the standard, it should not make a difference in how a dog is judged or how the owner or handler and dog are treated. It is getting better, but unfortunately, we are not there yet. Over the years, I have heard a lot of things in the ring and have received very different treatment from judges, depending on which dog I had on the leash. Showing my black nose, the judge took his time, examined the dog, the movement—having my brown nose on the leash—and, after looking in the dog’s face, we were ignored—no examination, no check of movement—nothing. He just ignored us completely. From having judges obviously roll their eyes at us or telling me outright that the dog is not in standard because of the color, or something is wrong with this color, I heard things like, “Oh, another one of these sick brown-nosed dogs—they should be forbidden." Most of the time the judge will just tell you stuff like that, but from time to time they will even write it in the critique: „needs more pigmentation around the nose and eyes," „needs more mask," „wrong amber eye color." You do not need to love the color, but please know what colors are correct and treat us all the same way in the ring.

Positive approach: Judges' education in America has worked hard over the years to remind judges that a brown nose is acceptable.

Exhibitors and breeders also play a crucial role in promoting fair judging. By presenting a wide range of Ridgebacks that meet the breed standard, regardless of color, they help to reinforce the idea that excellence comes in many forms.

The show ring should be a place where all Rhodesian Ridgebacks are judged fairly based on the comprehensive standards set forth by kennel clubs. Livernose and black-nose Ridgebacks, as well as the entire range of acceptable coat colors, should compete on an equal footing. Judges must focus on the qualities that truly define the breed—conformation, functionality, and temperament— ensuring that every dog has the opportunity to shine based on its merits, not its cosmetic appearance. Judges must assess each dog based on the breed standard, which means considering the overall conformation, gait, and temperament of the Ridgeback. The color of the nose, whether liver or black, should not influence the judgment. Both variations are equally valid and acceptable. This approach not only upholds the integrity of dog shows but also honors the rich diversity within the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed.

WRITTEN BY ROBERT L. RUSSELL

BRIEF NOTES ON ACCEPTABLE RIDGEBACK COAT COLORS

Robert L. Russell

AKC Breeder of Merit

Parnassus Rhodesian Ridgebacks

Should all Ridgebacks be big red dogs?

The unequivocal answer is NO, of course! Neither “big” nor “red” exemplify the correct Ridgeback. Here we focus not on big red dogs but present a simplified description of the broad coat color spectrum referenced in our USA Standard. We assume this focus on the whole specturm because at least historically part of it, the light wheaten part, had often been deemed 1.) the less desireable coat color along the correct color spectrum and is 2.) numerically rarer than its counterpart, red wheaten, at least in the conformation ring. Although as an individual you may have a personal preference for a coat color, the light wheaten, wheaten, red wheaten, and all coat colors between should be valued equally from a conformation judging standpoint. In other words, adherence to our standard requires a certain color blindness when exhibits don any coat color between and including red wheaten and light wheaten.

Here is a picture of a ridgeback tending toward the spectrum’s farthest end of the light wheaten antipode juxtaposed to a picture of a ridgeback tending toward the farthest end of the red wheaten antipode.

There are all sorts of coat color variations from the wheaten midpoint to the light and red wheaten antipodes. These variations are all acceptable coat colors according to our standard and of equal importance to the preservation of the Ridgeback variety of coat colors.

It should also be noted that every variety of light wheaten coats can and does appear with all variations of nose color, namely, liver, brown, or black. Thus, light wheaten liver or brown nose and light wheaten black nose are all acceptable. The same is true of red wheaten coats. Together, these variations display the variety and vibrancy of the correct coat colors Ridgebacks are known for and described in the Standard.

Dilute and Mahoganycoats are not desireable coat color variations, we should point out. Mahogany coats, sometimes mistakenly described as acceptable dark red wheaten ones, lack the bicolor (agouti) hair structure that all wheaten, light or red, have in common (lighter at the skin, darker toward the surface), and that can be seen when examining the hairs comprising a Ridgeback coat. Dilutes can appear bluish gray and are not as common as mahagony Ridgebacks these days. Interested fanciers can easily find descriptions of the breakthrough research identifying the genes associated with different coat colors on the internet.

Finally, we want to emphasize there is so much more that is essential to a typey, sound, correct gaiting Ridgeback in addition to choosing the correct coat color, and honing your judgment to discern the former is far more arduous than achieving a certain color blindness with respect to our lovely Ridgeback coats.

The author thanks Barbara Rupert of Oakhurst Rhodesian Ridgebacks for her adroit suggestions.

Red wheaten

Light wheaten

WRITTEN BY DENISE FLAIM

RRCW RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK WORLD CONGRESS

Mark your calendars for the 10th Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress in the Czech Republic in 2026.

Every four years, athletes and sports lovers around the world gather for the Olympics.

And at a similar interval, Rhodesian Ridgeback enthusiasts convene for the Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress, or RRWC.

For 40 years, the RRWC has served as a major engine for our international Ridgeback community. It gathers us together to discuss our breed, share information, and address any challenges that lie ahead. Meeting in person, exchanging ideas, and having a platform for discussion — and even arguing!—is so essential, even in our global digital world.

Earlier this year, the details of the next Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress were announced: Sponsored by the Czech Rhodesian Ridgeback Club (CKRR), this important international event will be held Wednesday, May 27, through Sunday, May 31, 2026, in Prague.

A Strong Start

The first Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress was held in Johannesburg, South Africa, in 1984. It has since crisscrossed the globe, going five times to Europe, twice to North America, and once to Australia.

Congress presentations have varied in length and subject matter, covering everything from history to health. Some presenters have been respected Ridgeback breeders and judges; others are academics or subject-matter experts with an interest in Ridgebacks.

Traditionally, at each Congress, bids from prospective host countries for the Congress eight years in advance are presented, and attendees vote on them. Also on the agenda is an update from the country that is hosting the next Congress in four years.

Typically, local breeders and fanciers from the host country make up the majority of Congress

attendees. However, the gatherings also attract a passionate and committed knot of international followers, coming from every continent except Antarctica.

The Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress had always operated without an official structure, trusting that the event—with its seminars, social events, and conformation show, always adjudicated by a breeder-judge — would simply roll from one country to another without any external oversight or input.

That worked remarkably well for almost 40 years — until Covid.

Hurry up and wait.

The ninth — and last — Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress was held in 2016 in Lund, Sweden, a collaboration between the Ridgeback clubs of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark.

In 2020, the RRWC that had been scheduled for Dortmund, Germany, was unavoidably cancelled due to the global disruption from the COVID pandemic.

Eventually, as the world re-emerged from lockdown and returned to normalcy, Ridgebackers looked ahead to the next Congress, which was to be held in conjunction with the World Dog Show in Zagreb, Croatia, in April 2024. Unfortunately, after some attendees had made travel plans, that event was postponed.

Concerned about the fate of the Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress — and well aware that the longstanding method of having two Congresses in the works at any given time was now disrupted—members of its only standing committee, the RRWC Health Committee, convened to develop a plan to put the Congress back on track.

The committee members are Helle Lauridsen (Denmark), Orit Nevo (Israel), Denise Flaim (United States), Jessica Persson (Sweden), Mona Hansen (Norway), Nina Lindqvist (Finland), Linda Costa (Australia/Zimbabwe), and Elin Lehrmann (United States/Denmark).

In early 2024, the committee issued an open letter to all previous RRWC attendees and national Ridgeback clubs, announcing a Zoom meeting at which stakeholders would convene to determine the future of the Congress.

Ridgeback enthusiasts from 26 countries attended the virtual meeting on February 4, 2024, voting on and approving seven motions:

Re-open the bidding process for the 10th RRWC.

Require, as minimum, a three-day Congress. Require that a minimum of 50 percent of RRWC seminars be presented by Ridgebackers.

• Establish formal requirements for RRWC

Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congresses

1984: Johannesburg, South Africa

1988: Hilleroed, Denmark

1992: Warwickshire, England

1996: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

2000: Garderen, Netherlands

2004: Dallas, Texas, United States

2008: Portumna, Ireland

2012: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada

2016: Lund, Sweden

2026: Prague, Czech Republic

bids. (Among them: organizers must have an endorsement by an official Ridgeback club; be members in good standing of a national kennel club; have diverse leadership; present three viable venue options; and—in the case of the 10th RRWC—be able to adhere to a compressed timeline.)

• Establish a RRWC steering committee to track progress, increase transparency, and ensure continuity.

A deadline of April 7, 2024, was set for bids for the 10th RRWC, with a subsequent Zoom meeting on April 14 for bid presentations and voting. The meeting also proposed minimum milestones for the 10th RRWC, including public announcements, calls for papers, registration openings, and program publications at specific intervals before the event.

We Have a Winner!

Several Ridgeback clubs worked diligently to see if they could organize an event of such magnitude in less than a quarter of the time required for previous congresses.

In the end, one club was able to present a bid at the April 14 Zoom meeting, which was unanimously approved by the 48 attendees who voted.

Hana Pankova of the Czech Rhodesian Ridgeback Club, or CKRR, narrated a comprehensive Power-

Point outlining their proposed plans for the 2026 Congress and introducing the team. In addition to herself as Congress manager, it includes Tereza Dušková, deputy Congress manager; Lenka Havlanová, show manager; Anna Vlčková, graphic and web design support; veterinarian Petra Fedorová, speaker support; Lucie Rysková, attendee support; and Jana Filipová, IT and media support.

The 2026 RRWC’s seminars, presentations, and social events will take place Wednesday through Friday, May 27 through and 29, in or around the Czech Republic’s capital city of Prague. Due to the very large entries of 200 to 250 dogs that the Czech club’s regular show draws annually thanks to its central location and superb organization, the World Congress show will be held over two days — Saturday and Sunday, May 30 and 31.

For those who want to continue their canine adventure, the 2026 World Dog Show takes place the following week in Bologna, Italy.

The Next Step

Last month, the RRWC 2026 team issued its call for papers.

“We are looking for speakers and panelists from among all types of breed enthusiasts—breeders,

FOTO STORY

working-dog owners, judges, veterinarians,” they explained. “This is your chance to share your expertise, make connections, and benefit from the insights and experiences of others.”

Among the possible topics suggested were health and genetics; conformation; the breed standard; temperament and training; function, performance, and the working dog; breeding; and history.

The deadline for submission is October 31, 2024. Prospective speakers are invited to submit their ideas via the submission form found at https:// forms.gle/n4F2cpvnTDFNNwfb9. (Please note submission does not guarantee acceptance.)

The RRWC 2026 team will be launching a dedicated Facebook page and website in the near future. In the interim, please like the general RRWC Facebook page at www.facebook.com/ridgebackworldcongress. You can also send an email to RRworldcongress@gmail.com for inclusion in the general RRWC mailing list.

See you in Praha!

The following is a collection of photo impressions from various congresses, sourced from different Facebook accounts.

Canada - three judges: Orit Nevo, Linda Costa, Martin kLopsch

Canada ring side talk: Liz Megginson, Orit Nevo, Barbara Sawyer- Brown, Sara Venturelli

Ridgeback Academy - part of RRWC 2016

TRANSLATION

BY

HELLE LAURIDSEN, JESSICA PERSSON AND DENISE FLAIM

FIRST RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK WORLD CONGRESS

This article and summation of the first Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congress — held in 1984 in South Africa — was written by Stig Carlson, also known as “Nalle”, and published in the Swedish Rhodesian Ridgeback Club’s membership magazine issue 4/1984.

Nalle was a Swedish author, breeder and, among other things, former chairman of the Swedish Rhodesian Ridgeback Club (SRRS). Sadly, he passed away in 2001 at 58 years of age.

A United Ridgeback World - The 1984 World Congress

World Congress. An ambitious name. We have been advocating for a long time that the various parts of the Ridgeback world should approach each other. It is a Nordic idea to one day speak of a “World Club” for the breed.

This year’s World Congress would hardly have been possible without three factors. Partly Brian and Liz Megginson’s inexhaustible energy. They have founded a new, active RR club in South Africa, and recruited a whole host of the most talented breeders to their circle. Partly the eternally young Janet Murray, who heard Brian’s and Liz’s plans and pounced by writing to people around the world with breed knowledge and interest and just inviting them. After this, a World Congress was a fact. Partly the numerical fact that 1984 is the 60th anniversary of the breed’s first registration in the home country.

Bottom

who fled with dogs and cattle from Zimbabwe — now a colorful writer and lecturer in South Africa.

About a year ago, plans were started to hold a world gathering in 1984. Sweden was one of the first countries to be contacted. As mentioned, we have long advocated the internationalization of the breed. In addition, we have, by international standards, a long history.

Do you know that the first Ridgebacks arrived on Swedish soil in the 1930s, through dogs owned by the Tham family in kennel Häckeberga. And that the first Ridgeback in a Swedish exhibition ring as early as 1951 was Viki of Banba. She was imported from South Africa, owned by Inga Lörqvist and later transferred to Mr. John Andersson, and was awarded first prize at exhibitions in 1951-53. The first permanent import came in the 1960s via Bengt Florén. As an enduring breed, we are approaching our 25th anniversary.

Back to this year’s festivities. The Scandinavian interest in contributing to the World Congress was great. The undersigned was given the responsibility to not only represent SRRS [Specialklubben

Rhodesian Ridgeback Sverige, the Swedish breed club], but also, officially, SSD [Specialklubben för Sällskaps- och Dvärghundar, a former club within the Swedish Kennel Club that encompassed several different breed clubs] Later, the task of speaking for both the Norwegian and Danish RR clubs was added.

The arrangements were enormous in their breadth. Quite incredible that such a small club could organize a Congress with around 150 delegates and with presentations and material from four continents. And furthermore, cope with airport pick-up, travel and accommodation planning, a large opening party (which in South African style was a “braai”, i.e. outdoor barbecue, which was surprised by a downpour and without any problems moved indoors...), an 11-hour congress, hotel bookings, excursions, as well as VIP arrangements for all delegates in connection with the following Sunday’s LKA [Ladies Kennel Association] exhibition.

Left page:

Left down: Laurie Venter, lecturing on coat colors and color issues.

Right down: Margaret Wallace, the famous strong woman behind “The Parent Club” in Harare, Zimbabwe.

Right page:

Upper photo: Major T.C. Hawley, our own Nalle C, as well as Laurie Venter’s brother, active on the board of the other of the two South African clubs.

photo: Mylna Arsenis,

We met at the dog-food manufacturer Epol’s conference premises in Halfway House, halfway between Johannesburg and Pretoria. Bea and I had decided to start early. After four to five days of intense rehearsal of my two presentations, it felt like something we wanted to be thorough with. Therefore, we decided to arrive at least an hour in advance. What could prevent that? We had even rented our own car to be independent. Answer: a valet, who the night before takes one’s car keys to park the car. By the time we were about to leave, the guy had gone home. With our car keys. And “home” had no phone number. Finally, we arrived in the hotel’s big bus...

Conclusion: We were the only delegates who arrived so late that we felt obliged to decline the elegant champagne breakfast in the garden outside. And it was lucky because South African and Swedish standards in terms of slide projectors etc., turned out not to be the same. It took a while to fix the available devices and to order ones that weren’t. It was a public holiday.

Let me start with something of a summary. A Congress of this kind is groundbreaking. Not for all the new things that came out of it, but because knowledgeable and enthusiastic people broke the barrier of theoretical research, correspondence and met each other. Not because each speech gave completely new facts, but because we could ask questions, comment, applaud and be encouraged. Not because the speeches ended in a general hypothesis or investigation, but because the next step will be that everyone, who has already gathered and talked to each other, exchanged personal opinions and compared results, can now come to the phase where we ACT more universally.

What did we from the North do? I showed pictures from the various Nordic countries and talked about the development of the breed. I also talked about our hip-joint experiences. Our programs, the majority of which are based on information, education and voluntary efforts, are unique in the world. Thank you, Lars Audell and Orjan Lundell, The Swedish Kennel Club and the Dog School in Sollefteå! There was not one national delegate who did not spontaneously announce that they were interested in discussing the “Swedish model” in their country. Our hip-dysplasia percentage has dropped from 35 percent in 1975 to barely 5 percent this year. When it comes to hip dysplasia, we really shouldn’t remember “the good old days” with particular nostalgia. But we have shown that a knowledgeable group of breeders, in less than 10 years, managed to influence the results and the health of the dogs.

What else to recollect? Major Hawley, of course. It’s always an experience to meet a living legend. I had the same experience several years ago when I first met Laurie Venter and Janet Murray. Major Hawley was the author of the first professional Ridgeback book. (In fact, he wrote a book about the Ridgeback already as a young captain. Head

of the military dog school, and a person who, among other things, made the old English king become enamored by our breed sometime in the late 1940s)

Major Hawley spoke willingly and passionately about the movements of a Ridgeback. He wants healthy, agile, and fast dogs in top condition. He told me he would never reward a dog that was not in top physical shape.

Doctor Potgieter. The RR world’s foremost historian. His speech about humans and dogs in the breed’s infancy, in the 1920s and ’30s, was like music. It is something of a fairytale world opening up, less than a human generation back. One got a vivid picture of the author of the breed standard, Barnes, of the first shows, the arrangements and personal chemistry behind the first registrations, and of the early ’30s debate about the dogs’ function and format. Do you know who Vernon Brisley was? In his time, he hunted with Ridgebacks. In real big-game hunts, in the open bush, in the infancy of the breed.

What was he arguing for? “Sufficiently large and powerful Ridgebacks, not small and scrawny who couldn’t handle a fight with wild game ...” Nothing new under the sun.

We heard shocking and thought-provoking stories from the last years of Rhodesia. Stories about settlers, dog owners, terrorist attacks, and also evil death. The Wallace family from today’s Harare, chairman, secretary and leader of “The Parent Club,” had managed to travel to the Congress. They brought with them a wealth of fascinating stories.

The lion hunt and hunting side of our breed has been the most talked about. The Wallace family clearly highlighted another aspect: THE WATCHDOG Ridgeback. The tough, reliable, arrogantly dismissive but never aggressive watchdog. A dog that can cope with pretty much any enemy and any hardship without letting its owners down. One thing is clear: Sammy Wallace has nothing left over for scared Ridgebacks!

Laurie Venter followed the traditions of her mother, the founder of the Glenaholm kennel, and highlighted, among other things, color issues in Ridgebacks. It was maybe not much new, but a charming presentation and convincing lecture about what we have already guessed, such as liver and black coat in the wrong combination give blue colors1. Laurie was somewhat more tolerant about the presence of white. It is a problem that can be managed without risk, as long as you work systematically enough.

1  Editor’s note: Today we have learned that the blue coat color of the Rhodesian Ridgeback is caused by a recessive mutation in the MLPH gene with no known connection to the colors mentioned. Drögemüller et al., 2007, “A Noncoding Melanophilin Gene (MLPH) SNP at the Splice Donor of Exon 1 Represents a Candidate Causal Mutation for Coat Color Dilution in Dogs”

In connection with the autumn exhibition in Oslo/Ekeberg, a Norwegian question was raised about liver nose and eye color. I have to admit (reluctantly) that after the input from Laurie Venter, Major Hawley and many others, I had to change my mind. In Norway, I had pointed out that a liver nose should have bright eyes, period. Any penalty on such a dog should not be allowed. Now I had it explained that a liver nose should have BRIGHT, but not PALE eyes, and that the shade and tone of the eyes should harmonize with the coat. Pale light coat is considered less desirable, eyes without warmth in color —”without the shade of amber,” — on a liver nose is considered wrong. (Although stubborn as I am, I still think the Norwegian dog could have received a kinder assessment!)

The ridge and its length and symmetry were discussed — of course. The South African approach is clear. People even expressed themselves in centimeters, which I am not a complete fan of. In any case, a maximum of half a centimeter displacement of the whorls could be accepted in an otherwise perfect dog. Otherwise, it is not a dog of champion quality. In terms of length, it emerged that, in general, one is increasingly worried about ridges that start too far below the shoulder area. Judging a short ridge from the “tail end” was considered well managed by most judges, but they are too kind with short ridges from the “top end.”

When it comes to bites and bite faults, the dominant international opinion differs from ours. We only accept scissor bite. In South Africa, a healthy level bite is just as acceptable. I never got any actual physiological reason for or against. It is referred to that a guard and fighting dog, as the Ridgeback has also been, is not well served by a scissor bite alone. Rather, by a strong muzzle and a generally strong and healthy bite. Weak heads and muzzles should thus, according to the home country, never be accepted.

In the matter of dermoid sinus, as well as ridgelessness, it was concluded that both the definition of genetic ridgelessness, as well as the knowledge of the causes of dermoid sinus, are not fully understood. Not least because of the (human) fact that we lack reliable statistics as a basis. I pointed out that perhaps the most important tool for successful breeding in the future is 100 percent honesty in the declaration of the litters. And I received an almost shocking reply. It seemed to be a problem everyone was aware of and everyone wanted to highlight. How to do it? Answer: information, responsibility and distance from too much monetary gain in the breeding!

The recommendation the home country’s experts wanted to apply by was that one must assume two things:

1. That puppies with dermoid sinus, or without a ridge, are euthanized or removed from breeding.

2. That all breed associations, through informa-

tion and requirements, ensure that breeders cooperate in the future through completely open reporting of results.

Lastly, we saw the South African presentation on sinus surgery, as well as a “breed clinic” — i.e., a slide presentation of the breeds characteristics and details, as well as the reasons behind them. Brian Megginson is as brilliant a presenter as he is a handler, and it was a fascinating experience. We also noted that the South African and Swedish slide presentations were surprisingly similar. We would like to get more sinus material [Editor’s note: from the South Africans]. And we promised to send Brian some international photo material, as the South Africans are not as fortunate as us in terms of access to, for example, Australian, English and Nordic samples.

We ended with the Swedish slide show on the history of the breed followed an American video on the breed. It was then about 8:30 pm. It was a long day. And rewarding.

The general feeling was that we wanted to nail down a new conference already this year. Most agreed on the location — SWEDEN! — even though I spoke warmly in favor of a Nordic Congress. Perhaps rather in Denmark, because the Danish policy toward, for example, entry of South African citizens is considerably more balanced than the Swedish one. [Editor’s note: At the time, Sweden had restrictions on dogs entering the country.] When? At first, we said “in five years”, but after Sunday’s exhibition we said three years.

I have suggested to the Norwegian, Swedish and Danish clubs that we discuss a WORLD CONGRESS IN COPENHAGEN 1987: What do you think?

Nalle Carlson

From Africa

WRITTEN BY ELISABETH BECCARO

SARRC 2024 CHAMPIONSHIP SHOW

Report on the South African Rhodesian Ridgeback Club’s (SARRC) 2024

2024 Championship Show

Date: Friday 23 August 2024

Place: Goldfields Show Grounds, Johannesburg, South Africa

It was a beautiful sunny winter’s day in South Africa, starting off with cool temperatures but warming up to about 25 °C by mid-day. As the show only started at 12 o’clock, the committee had ample time to set up and get organised. There was also time for socialising and chatting, last minute advice and helping newcomers.

It was pleasing to welcome newcomers, but very special to see some legends supporting the day, such as Scotty Steward (Clachan, Thaba, Shashanga), Richard and Deborah van Aken (Cartouche), Mariette Van Der Veer (Vizara), Adorée Louw (Danntrig), Timmy Ralfe (Judge). A message from Norah Ormerod (Glenaholm) read out by our Chairman Johan Warffemius.

SARRC was privileged to host international judge and breed specialist Mrs Orit Nevo. Her reputation precedes her; as a breeder and exhibitor of top winning dogs around the world, speaker at all Rhodesian Ridgeback World Congresses since 1988, member of the FCI Breeding Commission

and a Rhodesian Ridgeback judge since 1994 having judged in excess of 100 specialty shows. What a pleasure to welcome her and afford her the opportunity to judge local Ridgebacks.

The revival of SARRC is in full swing with regular club activities and a quarterly newsletter. Hard work, team effort, passion and determination to work in the interest of the breed has saved the day. It was wonderful to see the size of the show entry: the best in many years.

The show attracted exhibitors from around South Africa, but also a new exhibitor all the way from Botswana. The atmosphere was happy and friendly, everyone was helping out, old friends caught up with each other and of course lots of Ridgeback talk around the ring.

Once all the judging was done, the 2023 Dog of the Year award was announced and this year the winner was Ch, Gr Ch, Int Ch (CIB) Amberhall Cintsangu for his achievements in the showring in 2023. His owner and breeder deserve congratulations.

In addition to the Championship show, SARRC celebrated the centennial of the pure-bred Rhodesian Ridgeback, the advent of the first breed studbook for Rhodesian Ridgebacks. In recognition of this landmark, the day was suitably ended with a thought-provoking presentation by Orit, entitled “Past, Present and Future – How the Rhodesian Ridgeback has evolved in 100 years since 1924”. She outlined the evolution of the Breed Standard over the years, illustrated with photographs and other interesting historical information.

Happy BIS

Elisabeth & Giselle Breeders Working together

Thank you to the committee for putting together a successful show and setting the scene for a lovely day with Ridgebacks in focus. A special thank you to Odette for being the judge’s scribe enabling written critiques to all the exhibitors.

The SARRC committee consists of: Johann Warffemius (Chairman), Alex Beccaro (Vice Chairman), Carina Lourens (Secretary), Giselle Brits (Treasurer), Odette Jardine, Elisabeth Beccaro, Ethney Brits and Peter Brits.

Richard & Debbie van Aken

Orit N and Chairman Johan W

Trophees

Orit and Odette

Timmy Ralfe

Scotty Steward & Mariette van der Veer

Starting the show

RESULTS/BEST IN SPECIALTY SHOW:

Best In Show: Ch Gem Amethyst Auksinis Feniksas of Amberhall

Reserve Best In Show & Best Opposite Sex: Ch, Gr. Ch, Int. Ch (CIB) Amberhall Cintsangu

Dog CC: Ch Bridgevale Cresento JM, ZAW’24, Nat Hound’24

Reserve Dog CC: Lewanika Ongesiwe of Pronkberg (Imp Den)

Bitch CC: Ch Bridgevale Aphrodite JM

Reserve Bitch CC: Ch, Gr. Ch, Int. Ch. (CIB) Amberhall Ariella JM, ZAW’22, Nat. Breed’22

Best Puppy: Oringo-Tau Kibibi Bell

Best Junior: Lewanika Ongesiwe of Pronkberg (Imp Den)

Best Graduate: Shumtani Khaleesi of Oringo-Tau

Best SA Bred: Ch Bridgevale Cresento JM, ZAW’24, Nat Hound’24

Best Maiden: Shumtani Freyja

Best Novice: Amberhall Equinoxo of Shumtani

Best Veteran: Ch, Gr. Ch, Int. Ch. (CIB) Amberhall Ariella JM, ZAW’22, Nat. Breed’22

Best Open: Bridgevale Camilia JM

Best Champion: Ch Gem Amethyst Auksinis Feniksas of Amberhall

Best Neuter Dog: Ch., Gr., Ch. Bridgevale Night Hawks ZAW’19

Best Baby Puppy: Shumtani Cody

Best Head: Shumtani Khaleesi of Oringo-Tau

Best Gait: Ch Bridgevale Aphrodite JM

Best Ridge: Ch Umjumi Jinaki

Best SA bred (bitch) and Reserve Best SA bred bitch: Ch Bridgevale Aphrodite JM and Ch Amberhall High Hopes by Everest JM

BOB Best Opposite Sex

Dog of the Year 2023

CC Dog

CC Bitch

Best Puppy in Show

Best Graduate in Show

Best Maiden in Show

Best Junior in Show

Best SA Bred in Show

Best Novice in Show

Best Veteran in Show

Best Champion in Show

Best SA bred (bitch) and Reserve Best SA bred bitch

Best open in Show

Best Neuter Dog

Best Baby Puppy in Show & RBBPIS

Best Head in Show

Best Gait in Show

BOB and BOS of the show

Best Ridge in Show

HEATSTROKE IN DOGS

Urška Bergant Bertoncelj, DVM

“Heatstroke in dogs happens when they overheat, leading to serious health risks. Keep them cool, hydrated, and avoid peak heat to prevent it.”

Heatstroke in dogs is a very serious condition that can quickly become life-threatening, especially during the hot summer months. Unlike humans, dogs do not have an effective sweating system; they cool down primarily through panting and evaporating water via the pads on their paws. This makes them more susceptible to overheating than humans. Heatstroke can lead to serious health issues or even death, so it is crucial to recognize the condition and act promptly.

WHAT EXACTLY IS HEATSTROKE?

Heatstroke in dogs occurs when their body temperature rises above the normal range (which is around 38-39°C or 100.4-102.2°F) and reaches or exceeds 41°C (105.8°F). This can happen due to excessive sun exposure, physical activity in hot weather, or a lack of shade and fresh water. In severe cases, overheating can cause organ failure and even death.

Heatstroke can affect all dog breeds, but certain breeds and types of dogs are more prone to overheating than others. Generally, the following groups are at higher risk:

• Brachycephalic breeds or “short-nosed dogs,” such as Bulldogs, Pugs, Boxers, and Shih Tzus, as they have more difficulty breathing effectively, making it harder to cool down.

• Dogs with thick or long fur, such as Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes, Bernese Mountain Dogs, and Chow Chows, because they have more difficulty dissipating heat.

• Large breeds such as German Shepherds, Rottweilers, Saint Bernards, and Great Danes are more susceptible to heatstroke due to their larger body mass, which is harder to cool down.

• Puppies, older dogs, and overweight dogs, as they may have difficulty with thermoregulation and are more sensitive to heat.

• Dogs with heart or respiratory issues are also at a higher risk of heatstroke.

SYMPTOMS OF HEATSTROKE

It is important to recognize the signs of heatstroke in dogs so you can act quickly.

Heavy panting that may develop into loud or labored breathing

Restlessness, irritability, pacing, and seeking shade and water

• Excessive drooling

• Dark red or pale gums or tongue

• Elevated heart rate

Vomiting or diarrhea

Symptoms mentioned above can escalate to more severe conditions:

• Disorientation or dizziness

• Lethargy

• Collapse or unconsciousness

Seizures

HOW TO PREVENT HEATSTROKE

To prevent heatstroke in your dog, follow these tips:

• Ensure constant access to fresh water and shade; you can also provide hydration drinks to maintain proper hydration.

• Avoid walks, physical activities, and playtime during the hottest part of the day.

• Choose shaded and forested paths for walks. Remember that asphalt can become extremely hot in the summer. If you can’t stand on the asphalt with your bare foot for 5 seconds, it is too hot for your dog. Avoid walks on hot asphalt and in urban areas, as heat radiates from these surfaces. If you cannot avoid such walks, shorten their duration.

• Always bring enough water for your dog during walks.

• Avoid prolonged swimming or fetching balls from the water. These are physical activities that increase body temperature through muscle exertion. During swimming, dogs cannot cool down by panting, as their mouths are closed. Additionally, cold water causes vasoconstriction of peripheral blood vessels, increasing the core body temperature. Lack of shade and high temperatures contribute to overheating.

• Never leave your dog in a car during hot or sunny days, even if the windows are open.

• You can cool your dog with water or use cold towels; you can also offer playtime in a small pool or use cooling coats and mats.

• Regularly brush dogs with thick fur to reduce excess and dead hair. Shaving dogs with undercoats is not recommended, as the undercoat helps with thermoregulation.

• Regularly check your dog for signs of dehy-

dration, such as dry gums, lethargy, sunken eyes, and reduced urination.

HYDRATION IS KEY TO PREVENTING HEATSTROKE

Hydration drinks can play an important role in maintaining the proper levels of fluids and electrolytes in your dog’s body, especially in hot weather or after intense physical activity. Ensure that your dog drinks water regularly, especially before, during, and after physical activity.

How hydration helps:

• Maintaining body temperature: Adequate hydration helps regulate your dog’s body temperature and prevents overheating.

• Fluid loss through panting: Dogs cool down primarily by panting, which leads to significant fluid loss through evaporation. Proper hydration helps replace lost fluids.

• Homemade hydration drinks: You can prepare mild solutions with a little salt and sugar in water, but consult your veterinarian before offering them to your dog to ensure the ratio is safe and appropriate.

WHAT TO DO IN CASE OF HEATSTROKE

If you suspect that your dog is overheating, you must act immediately, as the signs of heatstroke can quickly become life-threatening. Seek veterinary help or advice as soon as possible.

The time it takes for a dog to cool down depends on the severity of the heatstroke, breed, age, size, and overall health of the dog. In mild cases, it may take a few minutes to half an hour for a dog to cool down, while in more severe cases, it may take several hours and require a visit to the veterinarian. If you suspect your dog has heatstroke, act immediately by following these steps:

Move your dog to a cool, well-ventilated, and shaded area.

Offer small amounts of fresh, cool (but not ice-cold!) water. Do not force your dog to drink if they are not willing.

• If you have a young and healthy dog, use wet towels or compresses and place them on key points where the blood is closest to the skin surface, such as the armpits, abdomen, paws, neck, and groin. Ice-cold compresses are not recommended as they can cause shock due to vasoconstriction of the surface vessels. Also, do not wrap the entire dog in wet towels.

• Supporting normal bodily functions: Water is essential for all bodily functions, including digestion, circulation, and organ function.

Using hydration drinks and hydration methods:

• Fresh water: Always ensure your dog has access to fresh and clean water. This is the most basic and important form of hydration.

• Electrolyte solutions: There are special electrolyte solutions for dogs that can help replace lost electrolytes, maintain fluid balance in the body, and promote rapid hydration. Some also contain prebiotics or insoluble fibers that improve digestion by promoting the growth of beneficial gut bacteria. These solutions can be particularly helpful after intense activity or in very hot weather. They are also flavored, which increases fluid intake and helps achieve the goal of hydration more quickly. They are great for older dogs, as the flavor encourages more regular drinking.

If you are the owner of an older dog or a dog with chronic illnesses, use the evaporation method with cold water and fans. If possible, gently spray your dog with water, ensuring the water is cooler than your dog’s body temperature but not ice-cold. Use a fan, draft, or air conditioning to increase air circulation around the dog, which will speed up the cooling and evaporation process. If you cannot use this method, cool your dog by pouring cool water over them. Be careful not to use ice-cold water, as this can have the opposite effect, causing the dog to shiver, which generates more heat.

• Keep your dog calm and try to minimize their activity to help their body cool down faster.

• Call your veterinarian immediately or take your dog to the nearest veterinary clinic for further instructions. Even if your dog seems fine after successful cooling, a more thorough examination by a veterinarian is recommended, as some serious consequences of heatstroke may not be immediately apparent.

WHEN TO SEEK IMMEDIATE VETERINARY HELP

• If your dog does not respond to home cooling measures.

If body temperature remains high (above 40°C or 104°F) even after initial cooling.

If your dog shows signs of shock, such as unconsciousness, confusion, heavy panting, or pale gums.

Signs that Your Dog is Successfully Cooling Down:

The dog starts to breathe more easily.

• Panting decreases.

• Gums return to their normal color.

The dog becomes more alert and less lethargic.

WHAT TO EXPECT AT A VETERINARY CLINIC

When a dog experiences heatstroke and you take them to the veterinarian, they will take several steps to stabilize and treat the dog. Here are the typical procedures you can expect:

• Assessment: The veterinarian will evaluate the dog’s overall condition, including checking the heart rate, breathing, gum color, and responsiveness. The dog’s body temperature will also be measured accurately (normal body temperature for dogs is between 38 and 39°C, while during heat stroke it can exceed 41°C).

• Active Cooling:

• Cool intravenous (IV) fluids: The vet may start by slowly administering cool intravenous fluids to quickly hydrate and lower the dog’s body temperature.

• Wet towels or compresses: Cold (but not icy) wet towels or compresses will be applied to key areas such as the

armpits, neck, groin, and abdomen. Cooling can also be enhanced by spraying alcohol solutions on the dog’s paws.

• Oxygen therapy: If the dog is having difficulty breathing, oxygen therapy may be provided to help ease breathing.

• Monitoring Vital Signs and Regular Measurements: Throughout treatment, the dog’s body temperature, heart rate, breathing, and blood pressure will be regularly monitored to ensure the dog’s condition is improving.

• Treating Complications: Medications may be prescribed to stabilize the heart rate, reduce swelling, prevent shock, or treat other specific symptoms. If the dog has suffered tissue damage due to heatstroke, antibiotics may be prescribed to prevent secondary infections.

• Long-term Care and Advice: For full recovery, a few days of rest and reduced physical activity are recommended. Heatstroke is a serious medical condition that requires immediate and professional intervention. If you notice any signs of overheating in your dog, do not hesitate to consult a veterinarian, as this is a life-threatening situation that should not be underestimated. Early intervention and preventive measures can effectively protect your dog from the dangers of heatstroke and ensure their well-being even on the hottest days.

It is always advisable to consult a veterinarian about the best practices for hydration and heat stroke prevention tailored to your dog’s specific needs. While your Rhodesian Ridgeback may be descended from African ancestors accustomed to high temperatures, it is important to remember that modern dogs are far removed from their predecessors and require the same careful protection from the heat as any other breed.

HELEN MANSFIELD

AN INTERVIEW WITH A JUDGE

Greetings from England

PLEASE INTRODUCE YOURSELF TO OUR READERS.

My name is Helen Mansfield, and I live in the Malvern Hills area of England. I work within the legal profession in order to finance my Rhodesian Ridgeback addiction.

My husband, John Kirby, and I share our lives with three Rhodesian Ridgebacks that we bred under the Shingwidsi affix.

Our first Ridgeback was born in 1996, and since then we have owned eight Ridgebacks, six of which we bred. We have always been keen to learn more about the breed and have been active members of all four UK breed clubs. For many years I was involved with breed Support and Rescue and currently serve as Vice Chairman of the Midlands and Northern Rhodesian Ridgeback Club. I am also Chairman of an All Breeds Premier Show and act as a consultant for the Royal Kennel Club at licensed events.

Along with showing our Ridgebacks, we have also taken part in agility, obedience, rally, and scent work. Many years ago I gained a dog training qualification, and in recent years I have started to learn more about other breeds and have begun the judging program for seven hound breeds.

WHEN DID YOUR LOVE OF DOGS BEGIN? PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR PAST AND PRESENT DOGS.

A love of dogs has always been part of my life. My paternal grandparents had Bull Terriers and Dachshunds. My parents owned and showed beagles, which led to my maternal grandfather also owning and showing the breed. Growing up, everything revolved around dogs and horses and going to shows of one or the other or both. I attended my first Crufts at six months old and have been to most of them ever since.

There have been many dogs, but a few stand out,

often the cheeky ones or the ones that were harder work. Anyone who has lived with beagles knows there are always stories to tell of them opening cupboards, emptying pantries, climbing over fences, and going missing for hours. My whole childhood was spent with a pocket Beagle (back then we had two sizes of Beagles in the UK) called Dainty Dinah. She was a few months older than me and lived until we were both sixteen years old. We went everywhere together; she was the first dog I showed, and she taught me everything about the temperament, instincts, and sense of humor of hounds.

As well as the Ridgebacks and Beagles, I’ve also shared my life with a Pointer, an Irish Red and White Setter, a German Shepherd Dog, and most recently a Whippet. Each one has taught me something new about dogs and the different traits of different breeds. It is fascinating to compare the biddable nature of a working and gundog breed with the single-mindedness of a hound, whether sight or scent.

As a couple, our first dog was a Merle Border Collie, called Garion. We think he was about 9 months old when we rescued him, and he was brilliant! We did agility, flyball, obedience, and fun shows together. He went everywhere with us, hid in holdalls to go into hotels, and howled along to ‘American Pie’ on road trips. He was certainly the right dog at the right time in our lives.

Then came the Ridgebacks... Our first, Shingwidsi Tshokwane, was bought with the intention of only showing until he was old enough to do agility. I knew the world of showing and really didn’t want to get involved with it. Obviously, as I’m writing this, my plans didn’t work out very well. His pet name was Kheldar, and we used part of his kennel name as our affix. Kheldar had some super wins, with two second places at his first Crufts; he gained his Kennel Club Stud Book Number, and we were (well, I was) hooked.

In 2000, I was lucky that Gill Lawless of Faahac Ridgebacks let us choose a pretty puppy called Faahac Fushana For Shingwidsi. We called her Adara, and she had some great success in the showring, gaining her Stud Book Number. She proved to be an amazing foundation, and we produced a UK champion in our first litter, Ch Shingwidsi Tshelana Riva (AI). We also kept a male, Shingwidsi Tshepa Riva (AI), who went on to have a long and successful show career, winning a Reserve Challenge Certificate from Veteran at Crufts.

Our girls only have one litter each, so we have only bred four litters, and we have kept a female from each litter. As we breed so infrequently, it is only me that shows our breeding, and we’ve been fortunate to have three generations of UK champions. From our second litter, we kept Ch Shingwidsi Tshelete Silk. She was a beautiful, elegant female who won a RCC at Crufts and four Breed Club Best In Shows, amongst an array of other awards. Her daughter, Ch Shingwidsi Tshadi Rose, is a character and still regularly shown in Veteran. She has had an amazing career, having won BOS at Crufts, many Breed Speciality Best In Shows, and group placings at every age. From our fourth litter, we now have her daughter and son, Shingwidsi Tshedisa Light, who has two Challenge Certificates having won her first at Crufts 2023, and Shingwidsi Tsholo Light, who has one Challenge Certificate.

HOW DID YOU GET INTRODUCED TO THIS BREED?

With a childhood spent at dog shows, I’ve always been aware of the breed. When we were looking to

add another dog to our home, we saw a Ridgeback being walked through the local town. John was taken with the long loping walk and the dog’s total disinterest in everyone and decided it was the breed for him. . . I’d always admired the breed at shows, so happily agreed. We had an old Our Dogs Annual at home, and from that I found the details of the breed club and was directed to a breeder who had a litter. The breeder interrogated us to our suitability and, after several phone calls, allowed us to visit when the litter were 4 weeks old. That was the start of the love affair with Ridgebacks.

WHEN DID YOU START WITH YOUR JUDGING CAREER, AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO BECOME A JUDGE?

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOUR JUDGES CAREER AND YOUR HIGHLIGHTS.

From the outset of owning the breed, I wanted to learn as much as possible, so I attended all the education days that the breed club’s offered. So long before I judged, I had attended seminars covering the breed standard, conformation and movement, and rules and regulations. When I was invited to judge my first open show (a show without Challenge Certificates or Crufts Qualification) in 2007, my own breeding had started to do well in the ring, and I had won four Stud Book Numbers.

I hadn’t really considered judging until the invite arrived, and for me it was an honor that those more experienced in the breed felt I was someone who could begin the judging process. I’m always very honored to be invited to judge and feel very privileged that others enter their hounds for my

Club and Specialty Show of Rhodesian Ridgeback in Czech republic, 8th - 9th June 2024

consideration. For me, judging is part of learning more about a breed and a way of giving something back to a hobby that has given me so much.

At my first appointment, my Best of Breed went on to win the Hound Group, and she later became a champion. My next invite to judge came very quickly, but I purposely took my judging career very slowly so I had time to learn and assess between each appointment.

I judged my first breed club open show in 2014, had my first overseas appointment in 2015, and awarded my first set of Challenge Certificates in 2016 for the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Scotland.

In addition to Ridgebacks, I now judge several other hound breeds at open show level along with the Hound Group. I’ve been delighted to be invited to judge three other hound breeds at their club shows, and it is something special to see your Hound Group winners go on to win Best in Show or Best Puppy in Show.

DID YOU EVER HAVE A MENTOR? ARE YOU MENTORING NEWCOMERS?

When I started showing, the word mentor wasn’t particularly used. It was more a case of having trusted friends who you exchanged ideas with and learned from their knowledge and experience. Within this definition, there have been many mentors, and those that have taught me the most have often not been in our breed. To sit and listen to senior people in the dog world exchange thoughts and ideas is the best learning platform.

I don’t think it matters how long you are in a breed;

you still need those people you can discuss dog matters with freely, and I am blessed with several who are honest and open. Such relationships prevent you from becoming kennel blind, keep your ego in check, and help you to move forward as an exhibitor, breeder, and judge.

Over the years I have helped quite a few get started in the breed, and it is really rewarding to see them progress in the ring as both exhibitors and judges. I am happy to help anyone, but in recent years I have learned that some really do just want a mentoring relationship, where they take as much information as possible and move on.

In the UK, formal mentoring has been recently introduced as part of the Judges Education Programme (JEP), and I have undertaken this role. I am also a presenter of the Breed Appreciation Days, which are another element of the JEP and cover all aspects of the breed and the breed standard. At the moment, it remains to be seen if this new approach will produce a better standard of judges. Personally, I think as judges we always need mentors, and our education should never be complete.

HOW DO YOU DEFINE THE TYPE?

For me, type should incorporate the defining elements of the breed standard that prescribe structure, movement, temperament, and the finer points, such as the ridge. However, as our breed standard is very broad in description and misses out some aspects of the dog, I think regard must be given to the original purpose of the breed and those past hounds that have been deemed to be good examples. If the hound in front of you fills your eye

Club and Specialty Show of Rhodesian Ridgeback in Czech republic, African Dragon of Sangoma-Veteran

so you do not question its breed or sex, meets the requirements of the standard, and could do the job it was intended for without breaking down, you have found breed type.

IS THERE SOMETHING THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE IN THE BREED?

I wouldn’t change the breed as a whole, though I do feel we sometimes have such variation of type because there is a belief that a puppy with a good ridge automatically has show potential. We should look at the puppy as a whole and appraise them in accordance with the breed standard and the knowledge of how bone and muscle develop. This disparity of type and quality means that breeders and experienced exhibitors should really critically assess their dogs as they mature, and not just when they are selecting them as puppies to go in the ring.

EVERY BREED HAS SOME COMMON PROBLEMS. WHICH IS THE MOST COMMON PROBLEM IN RR?

All breeds suffer from fashions in taste and popularity at certain times, and I do think Ridgebacks have been through such phases over the last 10 years. While overall the breed is coming out the other side of one of these periods, there are a few things that we all need to be mindful of when judging.

We do seem to have some weaker heads creeping in and some ridgebacks with a hard expression where under-jaws, parallel planes, and eye sets have been compromised. Fronts have improved greatly in the last few years, but there are still some with forwardplaced shoulders and short under chests, and far too many that have weak hindquarters coming from overangulation and high hocks, which is not acceptable in an endurance hound.

WHAT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT POINT OF WHICH YOU WOULD LIKE A JUDGE OF THE BREED TO BE AWARE?

When showing, I really want a judge who doesn’t just know the breed standard but appreciates and understands why it includes a precise set of words. Above all, I want a judge that knows what the breed was bred to do, that their reserved nature is what kept them safe, that they should be agile and capable of endurance at speed for long distances, so they must have excellent conformation and good movement. I also want a judge that doesn’t overhandle, that goes over them with confidence and is judging them because they like the breed.

WHAT QUALITIES DO YOU ADMIRE MOST IN A JUDGE?

A judge that obviously enjoys their appointment and our breed, who is honest and has integrity. Once you are standing in the middle of the ring, friendships and petty rivalries should be completely forgotten and put to one side.

WHAT CHARACTERISTICS MAKE A GOOD JUDGE, IN YOUR OPINION?

Along with integrity and honesty, I think a calm detachment is one of the main characteristics required, as it gives the ability to make a decision without the pressures of outside influence. Often easier said than done in our age of social media, where the marketing of show dogs can be professional and relentless.

Judging comes with a great responsibility to the breeds in front of you, so a deep knowledge of conformation and movement is a necessity, as well as an in-depth knowledge of the breed and its standard. The more you feel equipped to judge, the more decisive you are, and this gives confidence not only to yourself but also to your exhibitors.

Judging is physically and mentally challenging, and you must be fit enough to be able to complete a day of judging without compromising the manner in which you judge any of the exhibits. The last dog of the day deserves as much consideration as the first dog of the day.

WHAT DIFFERENCES DO YOU SEE IN THE JUDGES TODAY AS OPPOSED TO THOSE IN THE BEGINNING OF YOUR CAREER?

DZRR in 2024 Germany

It used to be that judges were invited to judge after learning about a breed over many years. This meant that by the time they awarded Challenge Certificates, they were held in high regard and respected. Now, in the UK, across all breeds, far too many are rushing into judging after just a few years of showing. I appreciate that some can be involved in dogs for years and never acquire an eye for a dog, but I do think everyone needs a good foundation of knowledge. Time served does help to ensure confidence, resulting in good ring etiquette, a positive manner, and enough knowledge to explain placings without being defensive.

WHAT IS YOUR MOST MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE AS A JUDGE?

Every appointment leaves you with a host of memories, and judging gives you another perspective to the world of showing. It is wonderful to see a dog you have chosen go on to do well under another judge, especially when it is a judge you respect.

My first major appointment, which was also my first overseas appointment, was in the Czech Republic in 2015 at a club show. In amongst some superb hounds, I had the joy of judging a beautiful young male who presented a balanced, flowing outline and came into his own on the move. I awarded him Best Junior and hoped he would be all that he promised. This year I had the honor of judging in Czech again. As the veteran class came in, one hound stood out, and as he moved with a free fluid stride, I knew he was my winner. It was quite emotional to realize I had met him years ago and to see the fine, upstanding veteran my Best Junior had become. At ten years old, African Dragon of Sangoma was a credit to his owner.

This year will certainly be a judging year to remember. Earlier in the year I had the pleasure of seeing my hound group winner win Best in Show at an all breeds Open Show and judge a great entry of Otterhounds at a club show. As the year has progressed, I have had the unique privilege to be invited to judge three Ridgeback Club shows in three different countries over a six-week period. It is an amazing opportunity to see a snapshot of our breed at a particular point in time. I know all three appointments will be ones I will talk about for many years to come.

HOW HAS THE DOG SCENE CHANGED OVER THE LAST DECADES?

I think the biggest change to the dog scene has been social media. In many ways, it has brought a lot of advantages to the dog world and opened up the possibility of expanding breeding programs, tackling health problems, and exchanging ideas. However, it has also given a platform to those wishing to influence judging and judges through free marketing of dogs and litters. The result is that showing has become more political and can be far more predetermined. It has also created a lot of instant experts who only acquire surface knowledge and consequently are more susceptible to outside influences when judging.

HAVE BREED STANDARDS CHANGED VERY MUCH SINCE YOU BEGAN YOUR JUDGING CAREER? DO YOU SEE ANY DIFFERENCE IN RR OF TODAY COMPARED TO RR OF 10 YEARS AGO? IF SO, WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCES YOU SEE?

Other than the removal of the word ‘escutcheon’ from the description of the ridge in the UK breed standard, it hasn’t changed; however, I feel the standard of the breed has gone through several changes. Over the last ten years

Czech in 2015 with African Dragon of Sangoma

or so, color has improved, and we see far fewer dark reds. The fashion for pronounced prosternums seems to be waning, and generally, size has come down. In amongst all of these fads, a true Ridgeback type has remained, and I believe there are dogs from throughout the history of the breed that would not look out of place in a good line-up today.

WHAT

IS THE GREATEST

THREAT

TO RR TODAY?

Popularity and, therefore, indiscriminate overbreeding are the greatest threats to the breed. Seeing dog breeding as a means of supplementing a lifestyle is always the factor that does the most harm to any breed and has a knock-on effect on the quality and reputation of the breed.

In the show ring, the rewarding of ‘generic show dogs’ is without doubt our biggest hurdle to maintaining the breed type we value so much. All breeds have them, and on the surface they look the part, but when the breed standard is applied, they are often found wanting.

IT’S INEVITABLE THAT BREEDS WILL EVOLVE AND CHANGE SOMEWHAT AS NEW GENERATIONS OF BREEDERS TAKE CHARGE. HOW CAN THE ESSENCE—OR TRUE BREED TYPE—BE MAINTAINED?

The only thing that should change about a breed is the health as we learn more about how we can use science to improve the gene pool.

In all other matters, breeders, new and established, should always refer back to the breed standard and the history of the breed in order to maintain the true essence of the breed and ensure type. Education is the key, and giving support and guidance to new generations of breeders is vital. Sadly, in the UK it is very easy to breed in isolation of the breed clubs, and sometimes the first time more established breeders know about a litter are the puppy pictures on social media. Often these litters combine pedigrees that don’t compliment each other and come from parents that are not very good examples. I think there is a lot to recommend about the system used in other countries where breeding exams have to be passed and the litters are checked by breed representatives.

Breeders should have the knowledge, or ask someone who does, to evaluate regularly the dogs they wish to breed from, and the onus is also on stud dog owners to do the same. Judges must also be responsible and appreciate there is a duty on them to judge to the breed standard, and understand that sometimes the most popular winners are not actually the most correct breed examples.

WHAT WOULD BE THE MOST IMPORTANT SINGLE PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO ALL SERIOUS YOUNG BREEDERS?

As breeders, we are only custodians of the breed for a very short time in its history, and we must do our utmost not to damage the breed in any way. Learn all you can, never stop learning, be humble, and

LKA 2018

breed to improve, not to make money. The perfect dog doesn’t exist, so always be critical of your dogs and welcome other points of view about your dogs. Those that always say what you want to hear have rarely got the breed at heart. If you are unsure, discuss pedigrees and potential sires with those who are more experienced.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO ADD SOMETHING?

Thank you for the opportunity to share my views about our amazing breed. I hope through sharing knowledge and education we can ensure the characteristics and type that we all love about the Rhodesian Ridgeback are maintained for generations to come.

Name Helen Mansfield

England

Shingwidsi

SHINGWIDSI BREEDER

Ch Shingwidsi Tshelana Riva ‘Bethra’

and Ch Shingwidsi Tshelete Silk ‘Porenn’

My name is Helen Mansfield, and with my husband, John Kirby, we breed under the Shingwidsi affix. We live in the Malvern Hills area of England and currently share our lives with three homebred Rhodesian Ridgebacks.

You probably won’t have heard of us as breeders because, in nearly 30 years of being involved with Ridgebacks, we have only bred four litters, and it is only me that has shown our breeding. I’m possibly one of the most reluctant breeders you will ever meet in the dog world. We only have a litter when I want another dog to show, and we usually only have a maximum of four dogs at home.

We are active members of all four UK Ridgeback clubs, and I currently serve as Vice-Chairman for the Midlands and Northern Rhodesian Ridgeback Clubs. For many years, I was chairman of the club’s Support and Rescue Trust, and this really enforced my reluctance to have more litters. Too often, when we saw the pedigrees of dogs needing our help, there were kennel names of people we knew. Usually, they had bred with the best of intentions, but those buying their puppies had not had the welfare of the breed at heart. No matter how much you vet a future owner, it is easy for circumstances to change, and people can see breeding as an easy way to make money.

The years of being involved with breed rescue really put me off risking a puppy I had bred falling into the wrong hands or adding to the problem, hence not breeding often. I was also advised a long time ago to never count my litters but to make my litters count. Those words have always stuck with me, along with the advice to have an image in my mind of my perfect Ridgeback as a benchmark for

my plans. I admit the image comprises a bit of this dog and a bit of that dog, etc., but I can see a type that I hope I am true to.

Our first Ridgeback was born in 1996; his kennel name was Shingwidsi Tshokwane. We called him Kheldar, and we thought he was wonderful. He was never bought with the intention of breeding, but he joined our home as a companion and a future agility dog. I grew up in the world of dogs and dog showing and was quite determined that we would not become too involved in showing our dogs. I intended to only show Kheldar for a bit of fun until he could do agility, but he qualified for Crufts at his first championship show at just six months old, and so we carried on showing. At Crufts, he won two seconds and went on to gain his Kennel Club Stud Book Number. . . I was hooked!!

It wasn’t until many years later, when you could easily research pedigrees on the internet, that I realized that Kheldar had a great pedigree, going back to the Ujamaa Kennel of Australia. His sire, Faahac Fashanu, a son of Ch. Iannto of Janak, was bred by Gill Lawless, which meant we were welcomed into the extended Faahac family. Over the years, I have turned to Gill many times for advice, guidance, and straight talk, and it was Gill I went to when we wanted to add another Ridgeback to our family. We all know one Ridgeback is never enough!

In 2000, a pretty puppy called Faahac Fushana for Shingwidsi joined us. Adara was from Gill’s precious girl, CH Saragwe Saafiki, at Faahac, whose breeding came from Toni Agnew’s Mwenga lines. Her sire was Ch Vizara Shemesh of Shabani, who was doing incredibly well in the show ring and was

Ch Shingwidsi Tshadi Rose ‘Vella’ and Ch Shingwidsi Tshelete Silk ‘Porenn’

scoring. At the time, hip scoring wasn’t routinely done, so I could have used him, but we decided that would not be a good foundation to work from, so my head ruled and I looked to a dog I had become aware of in Sweden.

I’d been shown some photos of Adara’s cousin, SVCH, INTCH, NORDUCH, DKUCH, NUCH, SUCH, SV-02 Hayawani Zazazela Moyo, otherwise known as Ozzy. I loved the look of him; to me, he was balanced with a natural elegance. He had good body ratios and was starting to be appreciated across Scandinavian countries. I discussed the possibility of using him with Gill and Toni, as they knew the lines and the potential problems. In those days, COI was not really something that was considered, and it was far more about asking questions about parents, siblings, and relatives concerning temperament, health, and type. This exciting combination gave us new breeding lines from America combined with some of the older English lines. After two years of planning, the mating was the first official Ridgeback AI litter in the UK, and Adara gave birth to a super litter of twelve healthy puppies in January 2005.

From the start, there were two puppies that I really liked, and we chose our puppy from the litter very early on. We called her Bethra and gave her the Kennel Club name, Shingwidsi Tshelana Riva. The other was a dark-masked male with the biggest brown round eyes who didn’t seem in a hurry to leave home. Against all the sensible advice, we decided he was going to stay. We called him Barak, and his ‘posh’ name was Shingwidsi Tshepa Riva.

The two of them quickly became known as the Terrible Two, a name that stuck until their old age. Bethra was the brains of the partnership, as is usually the case with Ridgeback females, and Barak did whatever his sister told him. As a result, we started learning everything we could about canine behavior, body language, and training, which led to my undertaking of a formal qualification in canine training.

Both Bethra and Barak did well in the showring, and they gained their Stud Book numbers in 2007. Bethra was never shown a lot but became a champion in 2011 and won two Reserve Challenge Certificates (RCC). Barak loved showing and was always consistently well placed. He really came into his own as a veteran, winning a RCC at Crufts in 2013 and becoming the top veteran in his breed for several years.

a popular sire in the UK. Though Adara was always happiest doing obedience and hunting in the fields, she still did well in the show ring, where she gained her Stud Book Number and won her class at Crufts in 2004.

The heart decision would have been to have a litter from Kheldar and Adara, but we were unable to have Kheldar’s hips evaluated. It transpired that he had sustained a neonatal injury to his spine and could not be placed at the correct angle for hip

When it came time to look for the prefect partner for Bethra, there was one dog I kept coming back to: Ch, Aus Ch Chilolo CJ. Someday Sam. Bred by Rosemary Green in Australia, Sam was living in Scotland with Anthea Fox and Sharon Rossiter, and he had several progeny in the ring that were not only doing well, but they were beautiful to look at and had the most wonderful temperaments.

The tale of going to Scotland for a mating in January is a story in itself, but fortunately our plans worked, and Bethra gave birth to a lovely healthy

Shingwidsi Tshepa Riva ‘Barak’

Shingwidsi Tshokwane ‘Kheldar’

Faahac Fushana For Shingwidsi ‘Adara’

litter of four, two of each, in 2010. After being spoilt for choice with our first litter, I had no choice with this litter about who was staying, but it really didn’t matter. We kept Porenn, Ch. Shingwidsi Tshelete Silk, who was the sweetest but most stubborn Ridgeback you could ever meet. She had an amazing show career and was consistently placed well by breed experts. At the Hound Association in 2011, she gained her Stud Book Number by winning the RCC at just 16 months old and was only beaten by her mother, Bethra, who won the BCC and became a champion. An amazing day! Porenn won four Breed Club Best In Shows, a RCC at Crufts, and was awarded her last Challenge Certificate (CC) at eight years old.

Porenn gained a reputation for easy fluid movement, with a long, easy gait, and above all else, when looking to breed her, I did not want to compromise this. Once lost, good movement can be such a difficult thing to regain. In early 2012, I became aware that Sonja Nilsson of the Roseridge Kennel in Sweden was planning quite a unique AI litter between her girl, Ch Roseridge Rusticana, and Am Ch Rob Norm Shara’s G Dagga, who was born in 1977. Something about the combination captured my imagination, and I’d already decided I would watch the progeny with interest when I learned friends Andrew and Sharon Geeves were going to have one. Over several years, we got to

know their boy, Merlin, Ch Roseridge Royal Romeo JW, really well, and I had the honor of handling him several times. He was cheeky and mischievous, with clean, balanced lines and perfect foot fall, and Porenn adored him! He and his pedigree seemed the only choice for our ‘Rose’ litter in November 2014.

From the ‘Rose’ litter we kept, Vella, Ch Shingwidsi Tshadi Rose, who from the beginning was a perfect blend of both parents, From the first time we looked at her properly at eight weeks old, we all thought she was special, and she has never disappointed in or out of the ring. She has the most fun-loving personality, thinks every round of applause is for her, and is a complete joy to live with, even though she suffers from a need to eat her beds. At her first show, she won Hound Puppy Group 2 at the Three Counties Championship Show and has gone on to win group placings at every stage of her showing career. Most recently, she won the Hound Veteran Group at the Border Union Championship Show 2024. Vella has also won four Breed Club Best In Shows, and at Crufts 2019, she was awarded the CC and Best Opposite Sex.

When it came to breeding Vella, I looked at a dog that I had been introduced to in Germany, MCh Ndoki Fuming Hellboy, who was bred by Claudia Korner and owned by Volker Wienecke and Ste-

Ch Shingwidsi Tshelana Riva “Bethra” and Shingwidsi Tshepa Riva “Barak”

fanie Radke. I wanted an elegant and upstanding Ridgeback for Vella, as in her younger days, her nickname was Thumper! We’d fallen in love with Hellboy’s sweet nature upon meeting him and his stunning head. I knew his pedigree well and felt he would be a good match for our special girl. I believe that fate has a lot to do with breeding, and from the start, our plans never seemed to quite work out. After leaving England, thinking our timing was correct, we then had to sit and wait in Germany for two weeks while Vella enjoyed a holiday. On the last possible day, we got a mating, and she was confirmed in whelp with three puppies. Sadly, things started to go wrong the night she was due to whelp, and a catalogue of events, mostly caused by an ‘out of hours’ veterinary practice not being organized, we lost all three perfect boys. I will never forget the pain of returning home to dismantle the whelping box and look after our very poorly and very heartbroken girl. With the help of some very caring people in the breed, we nursed Vella back to full health. I, on the other hand, had lost what little confidence I had with regard to breeding.

We have friends who are veterinarians, and they said that if we wanted to try and mate Vella again, they would hold our hands every step of the way and make sure, as far as they could, that nothing would go wrong. Years before, we had taken semen from Barak, and after he had sired a lovely

litter, we decided to try to have a litter by AI. While it would have been a close mating, it would have been perfectly acceptable and had the potential to be a lovely pairing. Sadly, once again, our plans did not work.

At this point, I began to think about starting again and buying a puppy. I contacted a few breeders overseas, and two dear friends offered me a puppy from a litter they were planning. However, the ongoing travel restrictions in 2020 meant I couldn’t visit litters abroad.

Breeding, done properly, is not easy. It can be heartbreaking, frustrating, expensive, and disappointing. Sometimes, we only hear about the perfect litter with no faults, and all the puppies are fit and healthy and end up with the most wonderful families, but the reality can be very different.

After a lot of thought, we decided to give it one more try and hope it would be a third time lucky. Several years before, I had admired Michele Farleigh’s boy, Chase, Ch Kinabula’s Taking Chances, but hadn’t looked at him since he was a raw youngster. I knew Michele liked Vella as she had awarded her a CC, so with a ‘nothing to lose’ approach, I phoned Michele and asked if we could visit to meet Chase with a view to using him. Their pedigrees matched up really well, and having seen or known the details of all the dogs on both sides

Ch. Shingwidsi Tshelete Silk “Porenn”

Shingwidsi Tshedisa Light “Taiba”

Ch Shingwidsi Tshadi Rose “Vella”

for five generations, it all looked good in theory. When we visited, we both loved Chase and his two sons. They were true Ridgeback clowns but had superb conformation, and I felt they would compliment Vella and our line. Finally, all our plans came together, and we welcomed a wonderful litter of five perfect Ridgebacks in March 2021. The litter was a joy from the first day, and three went off to lovely families who had waited nearly as long as us, and two stayed with us, despite saying we would never keep two again!

The ‘puppies’ are now three years old, and they are all we hoped for. They are a great blend of both our lines; they are developing slowly but steadily and have kept many of their parents qualities. Due to illness, they have hardly been shown, but Shingwidsi Tsholo Light, known as Kheva, won Best of Breed and his first CC from a breed specialist and has been awarded a RCC. He is the kindest, most happy-go-lucky Ridgeback male I have ever known. Recently, Michele used Kheva at stud for Ch Kinabulas Gucci Bloom, who gave birth to ten healthy puppies a few weeks ago.

Our young girl, Shingwidsi Tshedisa Light, known as Taiba at home, is a whirlwind who is intelligent and always on the lookout for trouble. At Crufts 2023, she was awarded the CC and Best Opposite Sex and won her second CC at the Border Union Championship Show 2024. She has also won four

RCCs—one Best in Show and two Reserve Best in Shows—at Breed Club Open Shows.

With all our breeding, health and temperament are of paramount importance. Our dogs complete the Kennel Club Good Citizens test, which is the closest thing we have in the UK to a temperament test, and all are health tested. Only our own dogs have been hip and elbow-scored, as only they have been bred from them, and we have bred four generations of 0:0 hip scores. We do believe that with responsible breeding there is a place for using genetic carriers, as we must keep the gene pool as diverse as possible, and we have used carriers in our breeding plans and would do so again.

We’re incredibly proud of all the Shingwidsi Ridgebacks and what they have achieved, in and out of the ring. I never imagined that we would make up a champion from our first three litters, that our fourth litter would produce two CC winners, and that we could win Best Opposite Sex at Crufts twice, with mother and daughter. Looking forward, I hope we can continue to breed to a type that meets the standard, has excellent temperaments, and is a happy, friendly, and healthy companion for the families that share their lives with a Shingwidsi Ridgeback.

Shingwidsi Tsholo Light “Kheva”

Vella and the Light Litter

Taiba and Kheva

Vella and Porenn

Vella and Porenn

KAZEMBE BREEDER

Alex and Nita with the Kazembe hounds

As a very young child, I was obsessed with animals of any description, but especially dogs and horses. Sadly, my parents were not big animal lovers, and although my sister and I were allowed a couple of rabbits, I was never allowed to have a dog, much less a horse. My Italian father, a wonderful man, was born and bred farm stock, and although he loved animals, in his upbringing they were to be kept outside and served a function; they were not pets. Despite my bringing home every injured bird or abandoned kitten I could find, knocking on neighbors doors to walk their dogs, and saving every scrap of money I came across to be taken to the local stables to ride (rarely), I distinctly remember him saying to me, “Nita, I don’t want any pets in this house. When you are old enough to have your own house, you may have as many animals as you like.”

Words to live by, because that’s exactly what happened. (N.B. He did relent in the end and let me have rabbits, a cat, and birds!)

To date, along with my husband, we have had dogs, horses, ponies, goats (pygmy goats, which were shown, and British Saanens bred and kept for milk), sheep, chickens, ducks, rabbits, cats, hamsters, fish, a conure, and even a gecko. My husband, although my father’s biggest fan, still blames him

for my taking literally his statement that, as an adult, I could have as many animals as I liked!

My love affair with Rhodesian Ridgebacks began in 1999, when my first husband came home from work one day and said that on his journey home, he had seen a big reddish-colored dog standing proudly with its owner, waiting to cross the road. He was struck by it’s presence and stature. We married young and didn’t want children at that time. The plan was always to have a dog; we just couldn’t decide on the breed. He had no idea what the breed was but was set on finding out and spoke of a strange marking of hair along the spine. I was intruiged. Back then, it was less common to have a computer in every home connected to the internet, and phones were just barely able to send text messages, so off to the local library we went. After looking through books featuring various breeds and being told none of them resembled the dog he had seen, we came across a book entitled “The Rhodesian Ridgeback.” Admittedly, I was taken aback by the ridge, having never seen anything like it before, but agreed to contact a breed club and find some who bred or owned these dogs, to go and meet them and research the breed. We contacted the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Great Britain and were put in touch with nearby breeders Norman and Doreen

Spence, whose affix was Nordostufial, and what an introduction to the breed that was. We arrived one cold autumn evening at their sheep farm and were taken around to the kitchen door, next to which, in a huge galvanized dog run, a large Rhodesian Ridgeback male was standing on his hind legs, jumping higher than my 5”2 frame, barking frantically. Rather than fear, I felt instantly and overwhelmingly impressed by the stature, intelligent expression, and beauty of this enormous hound! We were taken to a warm kitchen with an Aga (which I later found was famous in Ridgeback Club of Great Britain publications for a photo of a Rhodesian Ridgeback lying in front of its wamth, side by side with an orphaned lamb) and told to sit down quietly and not give any attention to the dogs that would shortly enter.

In they came, in all their breathtaking glory, and from that second on, I knew they were the only dogs I’d ever want. Norman, although an imposing character (and a veterinary surgeon) who I was in awe of, was kind and knowledgeable. He and his wife answered all our questions and more, and we fell in love with the breed. From the Ridgeback Club, we were given the details of a litter that had just been born. The litter was the first for the breeder, but she had good heritage in the breed. The dam belonged to Heidi Parsons (now Priorpark Kennels) and had puppies; her girl was Mataqua Rooibos, who was out of a Sheemar bitch. The sire was a dog from a South African line owned by Carol Ann Carlton, called Beajolais. His kennel name was Umhlandla Idayimani. Umhlandla is a Zulu word for a mountain ridge, and Idayimani is Zulu for Diamond. He was a stunning dog. He had four reserve tickets, sired multiple champions (two in the litter my girl was from), and had a lovely, outgoing yet loyal temperament. He is featured with some of the other Umhlandla dogs on page 200 of the Encyclopedia of the Dog by Dr. Bruce Fogle. (Beaujolais in the middle, lying down).

Umhlandhla hounds with Beaujolais bottom centre – Photo taken from The Encyclopedia of the Dog

We visited the litter in 1999, and what beautiful puppies they were! From that litter, our first ever Rhodesian Ridgeback joined us, our beautiful girl Mbeya, Zharha Zhar of Kazembe, as she came to be known. We applied for our Affix, “Kazembe,” and had it granted in 2004. We chose Kazembe as it is an African Kingdom, and we considered Rhodesian Ridgebacks to be the king of dogs! Mbeya was shown only a handful of times, but my life changed quite drastically in her youth with the end of my first marriage, and I had to start afresh, which wasn’t easy. By that time, I also had a rescue Ridgeback, having been determined to open my home and life to a Ridgeback in need (something I did multiple times before I bred). We received the call from Janice Ellis at Ridgeback Rescue after being on a waiting list for some time. His name was Jack, and he was a strong male with a very gentle but determined spirit. He once ran away from my ex-husband when he let off the lead in a park some miles away from home. I remember carrying a pile of ironing upstairs, and on passing the front door (we had no porch at that time), I heard panting on the other side of it. I opened it to discover him standing there, pleased with himself that he’d found his way safely over several miles and across a few main roads, back to me at home. My ex was not so pleased! It taught me, however, that not only are Ridgebacks excellent navigators, but you should never underestimate their determination, and when they love you, they really do love you with every ounce of their being and then some! Mbeya proved this time and time again; she was the most loyal and loving girl with a temperament that can only be described as perfect. Without her as a constant in my life, I would have been totally lost on more than one occasion, especially during that break-up, and when she passed away at the age of 13, I certainly was lost for a time. Only a first Ridgeback can hold your heart in this way.

Fast forwarding a few years, a

Ezra winning the Dog CC from an entry of 126 at The National Dog Show, Birmingham UK

Isla and her puppies, Photo Credit Robin Humphrey

few more rescue Ridgebacks, a marriage, and two children later, we lost Mbeya and also suddenly lost our third rescue Ridgeback, a ridgeless boy called Kya, at age 10 to cancer, and found ourselves without a Ridgeback, and that was something I never wanted to happen. We decided that we would like to try showing again and contacted a lady on the committee of the Midlands and Northern Rhodesian Ridgeback Club who had a male puppy. We fell in love with his handsome expression, which was wise beyond his years, and his beautiful temperament. We called him Solomon (Saffronridge Enigma of Kazembe), and boy did we have fun! He was a real showman, and although I was still learning the ropes at that time, he taught me so much. He refused to be baited in the ring, being not at all food-motivated, and did all things for love and encouragement. He had a fantastic temperament, and he loved to move, often trailing me at the end of the lead as he powered around the ring. Only very lightly shown, but he did manage to get a re-

serve CC and a first at Crufts. He sired a champion, and his stamp, both in construction and his superb temperament, was evident in his offspring. I learned more about the breed, and at Crufts in 2015, I was visiting to watch the judging in the Rhodesian Ridgeback ring when I walked past a lady I had spoken to before and who was always pleasant, called Lindsey Barnes. She was standing on the bench talking with Norah Raymond (Sofala) and a beautiful female named Diamondridge Delightful. I had admired this bitch and her excellent construction from the ringside and very much liked her brother, who became Ch. Diamondridge Da Vinci. JW. I noticed the bitch had a small granuloma on her forearm and had recently learned how to treat them with certain modalities in my veterinary physio-

Our adult male Ezra playing with his baby nephews and nieces – Photo Credit Nita Webster

Ezra out in the field with the horses – Photo credit Nita Webster

therapy class (I had enrolled in a postgraduate degree course inspired by my success in rehabilitating a mare with a sacroiliac joint injury, encouraged by my friend who was a vet). I mentioned this to Lindsey, and she was very interested in my idea of treating Delilah for one of my practical assessments, and so I began a friendship with a lady who I am pleased and proud to call my mentor and friend a decade later, as well as her husband Kelvin, her daughter Kelly, who is also a co-owner and a huge part of the Diamondridge Kennel, and her husband Andy. We looked after Delilah that year while Lindsey was away in Brazil (importing a beautiful bitch from the Malabo APD kennel), and I was impressed with both her wonderful temperament and construction. This led to us having a puppy from Lindsey’s beautiful girl Zara, Diamondridge Primadonna, and Norah’s beautiful boy, Sofala Sabo. Our foundation bitch, Isla, Diamondridge Distant Beat of Kazembe, is the sort of girl I always dreamed of owning and, one day, breeding. She had everything I wanted, from her wonderfully constructed front, her super height-tolength proportions, her enormous round dark eyes, and her movement that just took my breath away. The only thing she didn’t have was a love of the show ring. Initially, she did enjoy it and took best puppy in breed at the Scottish Kennel Club, won her junior class at crufts, and she also took two reserve CC’s from junior and postgraduate classes. She won limit classes also, but as she was going into open classes, she became unhappy with the ring and being gone over (due to one unfortunate incident with an inexperienced judge who frightened her), and I refused to put my sensitive girl through the mill for a hobby that she really didn’t enjoy. She soon found what she enjoyed, however, and that was being a mom. At the age of four, we had her first litter, which ended up being sired by our male

Orla winning 1st Limit Bitch at Midland and Northern Rhodesian Ridgeback Show

Me with baby Orla – Photo Credit Robin Humphrey

Solomon. From there, we kept our beautiful Indie, Kazembe, in demand, who obtained her stud book number very quickly. We had promised Lindsey that she would have a female from Isla and her beautiful boy Baccus (Ch. Diamondridge Da Vinci JW), whom I’d long admired, so a year later we tried to mate them, but Isla had other ideas, instead choosing Baccus’ handsome younger son, Diamondridge Da Vinci! Redford and Isla produced a stunning litter, but unfortunately for Lindsey produced nine boys and just one girl who was unsuitable for the show ring. From this litter of stunning males, we kept our handsome Ezra, Kazembe’s first CC winner, who was owned and bred by us and has had great success with 1 CC and 4 reserve CC’s to date. Later on, it was lovely to have him produce puppies that go back to my first ever Ridgeback, Mbeya, from Heidi Parsons of Priorpark Rhodesian Ridgebacks, with his progeny claiming among them top puppy, winning more than a few CC’s, Best in Show’s (all breed), reserve Best in Show, Hound and Puppy group placements, including multiple group 1’s. They are still doing incredibly and consistently well in the show ring, giving him level points with the current top stud dog at the halfway mark, being just pipped to the post by a tiebreak decision using the progeny points, who have one point more in the rankings. We are so proud of this boy and his superb temperament and construction. He is well known for his love of puppies, and subsequent litters born at Kazembe have seen him lie happily in the whelping box with full permission of the dam, being jumped on, harassed, and continually cuddled by the tiniest of puppies who adore his gentle nature. He is always happy to go and play with puppies of any age in the most loving of ways. His dam, Isla, is currently Top Rhodesian Ridgeback Brood Bitch at the halfway mark, having had another CC winning progeny from a repeat mating that produced for Lindsey the bitch puppy that she had long awaited, the beautiful Uma, Di-

Our daughter Loren and Ezra out for a walk

– Photo credit Nita Webster

Our Son Noah and the Kazembe ‘Time’ Litter – Photo credit Nita Webster

My husband Alex and one of our pups from Isla’s last litter – Photo

Credit Robin Humphrey

amondridge Kazembe Golden Age JW, who is to date on 2 CC’s and many class wins. From this litter, we kept her sister, our Orla, Kazembe Orla ‘Bout Me, who is also doing very well, having been placed at Crufts every time she has been. She won her stud book number in her first Limit class this year and has to date had two reserve CC’s. Isla is now a grandma and has helped her daughter with her litter, even feeding them along with her and cleaning up after them!

Over 8 years ago, encouraged and mentored by Lindsey, I began my judging career and worked my way through stewarding, seminars, and judging open show classes. I found that my foundation in physiotherapy was hugely useful in assessing good breeding stock, and I really enjoyed my appointments, being given some wonderful examples of the breed to go over, as well as very good mentoring. I worked hard to take in as much information as possible, recently passing my A2 assessment on my journey to judge at the championship show level. I love to speak at length with experienced breeders who have amassed years of knowledge and wisdom, watch their judging, and learn from their examples. These have included (over the years) Sue Campbell of Nyassa, with whom I used to go and stay regularly to dog-sit and care for her 9 Ridgebacks, one of whom was the great Champion Rex Ventors Farrah at Nyassa, twice Best of Breed at Crufts, and the top-winning Ridgeback in the UK, bred by Veronica Thoren of Rex Ventors. This bitch impressed me so much; her balance was exquisite, her movement was light and flowing, and she had a head of perfect proportions with a temperament that made her a pleasure to be around. Many times I would be sitting on the sofa in Sue’s living room while she was away. Two of the dogs would be getting a little overexcited, and before I had a chance to get up and deal with it, Farrah, who had seemingly been asleep, head in my lap, would suddenly lift her head and

Indie, Kazembe In Demand, 1st PGB at Crufts

– Photo Credit PetPixPro

Kazembe Counter Strike from the ‘Level Up’ Litter – Photo Credit Nita Webster

Atari, Kazembe Checkmate – Photo Credit Nita Webster

give a single, deep bark, at which point order and peace would be resumed. In fact, one of the reasons I was drawn to and wanted Isla so much was that she reminded me of this girl so much in her balance and construction, with a similar lovely expression and temperament. In addition to Lindsey Barnes and Sue Campbell, others who I have learned from and who have been influential in my education or whose dogs I have admired over the years are Sue Craigie (Imbali), who now has a litter sister to Uma and Orla (the stunning Reba) and who wrote the Imbali Way of Raising and Training Your Ridgeback Puppy, Norah Raymond of Sofala Kennels, who is very knowledgeable and runs a successful canine hydrotherapy clinic, Cath Davies, who has been the Breed Education Coordinator for many years and has done so many wonderful things for the breed, and many others besides. It has always been my opinion that no matter how much information we might have, there is always more to learn, and I am so grateful for the older breeders who are willing to share their time, expertise, and knowledge, something that should never be taken for granted.

Over the years, we have had several litters. Our latest litter (Kazembe In Demand x Sofala Lightening Strike) has just hit the show ring with Kazembe Checkmate (who I’m thrilled to say is a mirror image of her grandmother Isla, having gone back to both Diamondridge and Sofala lines!) and her beautiful brother Kazembe Counterstrike, who is owned by a wonderful couple who had followed our breeding for some time before they approached us for a puppy and who are doing a wonderful job with their training and showing. Currently in the show ring, there are some exciting progeny from a bitch we bred called Inka (Kazembe in the Frame) to CH Diamondridge Da Vinci JW, and then a couple of years later to our own Ezra (Kazembe Crescendo), producing Hunter, Kazembe Lightbearer of Umzingeli, Korra, and Kazembe Cult Classic. We

Atari - Best Puppy and Best of Breed, Reserve Best Hound Puppy in Show, Tunbridge Wells Open All Breeds Show

– Photo Credit Nita Webster

Solomon winning his class at Crufts

Holiday walk on the beach – Photo Credit Loren Webster

(L-R) Atari, Ezra, Indie, Isla and Orla – Photo credit Nita Webster

are so proud of these owners, who were new to the show world and have braved the ups and downs of it to campaign their beautiful dogs with wonderful successes and fabulous health test results. To be able to look back at the first girl we owned in 1999 and where we are now with the friends we have made and the wonderful breeding we now have gives us a great sense of achievement and satisfaction, and we are grateful to be able to share our lives with this wonderful breed, about which we never stop learning and which enriches our lives in the way that only Rhodesian Ridgebacks can. As I write this reflection of my journey with Rhodesian Ridgebacks, my dogs are all around me, and my puppy lies asleep with her head on my shoulder and her breath on my neck, infusing me with her wonderful aura. I feel that whatever is going on in my life, I am honored to share it with them and wouldn’t have it any other way. We hope for and look forward to many more years of breeding, judging, and exhibiting the best breed in the world!

www www.kazemberidgebacks.co.uk

Name Nita Webster

Country UK

Affix Kazembe

REDYLAND BREEDER

THE BEGINNING

From as early as I can remember, I have always loved animals, and our family has always had dogs. When I was three years old, my parents got a Dalmatian. Growing up with Dalmatians, it seems my affection naturally leaned towards short-haired hounds. I’ve always been drawn to dogs that resemble them.

As my 15th birthday approached in April 2012, I made up my mind—I wanted a dog. My childhood room was overflowing with encyclopedias about dogs, and one day, my uncle gifted me a new book. As I flipped through its pages, I stumbled upon a spread featuring two breeds: the Vizsla and the Rhodesian Ridgeback. At first glance, they seemed similar, but the Ridgeback captivated me with its unique feature—the ridge on its back. That’s when I began to dive deep into the internet, searching for Ridgebacks and learning all I could about them. I soon found a litter that had been born just a week prior. My world was turned upside down when I saw the father of the puppies—Patrick Die Groot Wenner. “Wow! That face! I want a puppy from him,” I thought to myself. But with my parents planning a move to another city, they were firmly against my idea. They told me it wasn’t the best time to get a dog, especially not a large one. At the time, we had a Yorkshire Terrier, and my mom was adamant about not getting another large dog, especially since she and my dad worked long hours. They insisted I wouldn’t be able to manage such a dog on my own. But I can be very stubborn, and their “no” only fueled my determination to change their minds.

Since the age of six, I have been seriously involved in equestrian sports and have competed in various events. But my desire to get a dog soon overshadowed my passion for riding. With no support from my parents, I realized I would have to earn the money for the dog myself. So, instead of horse jumping practice, I spent every free evening after school giving children horse rides in parks, gradually saving all my earnings in that book that featured the Ridgeback. A few weeks later, I put down a deposit for my puppy without telling my parents.

As I continued to save money, I spent half the summer working various jobs at the stables. I would draw pictures of my future puppy, braid bracelets with her name, make videos about the breed—anything to show my parents how much I wanted my pup. Finally, my dad was the first to relent and agree. To this day, I am incredibly grateful to the breeder for waiting until I had saved enough money and believing in me, despite my parents initial resistance. She understood because she was in the same situation when she bought her first Ridgeback as a teenager.

In August 2012, we brought home my Redy, Rayridge Dayo Camariya (Patrick Die Groot Wenner x Ridge’s Star Zidana Rous), and that’s where it all began...

A few months later, we moved from my hometown of Chelyabinsk to Moscow. Just imagine that in Chelyabinsk, Redy was the third Rhodesian Ridgeback in the city, but when we moved to Moscow, I found a much larger community of Ridgebacks. I was so happy!

Me 6 years old and our Dalmatian Gabby with her puppies

Patrick Die Groot Wenner

Patrick Die Groot Wenner

Redy, Rayridge Dayo Camariya, Redy passed away on January 5, 2024, and it broke me... She will forever remain in my heart as my first and best Ridgeback ever.

In Moscow, I quickly connected with Patrick’s owners, who supported me in every way and introduced me to the vast world of dog shows. I was instantly hooked.

I began traveling with Redy to various shows across Russia, earning the money to fund these trips myself, as my parents considered it a waste of money. Sometimes we were successful, sometimes not, but I never gave up, always trying again and again. I also engaged Redy in various dog sports. By the time she was not even a year old, we passed the obedience exam with a score of 98/100, and at two years old, Redy became the Russian coursing champion, winning numerous regional competitions. I was fully immersed in the world of Rhodesian Ridgebacks.

After 3.5 years, in 2015, I decided I wanted Redy to have puppies and found her a male in Germany— Nyangani Nelson Gently. I was captivated by his fiery, darker red-wheaten coat and lack of white markings. His gaze and temperament were outstanding. I contacted Markus about the breeding, and when I received his approval, I was over the moon. At 18, I flew alone from Russia to Germany with Redy for her first mating.

Since I was still 17 when I decided to breed Redy, I couldn’t register a kennel name as I was still a minor. Even when I turned 18 in April and applied, the FCI wouldn’t have processed my application in time for Redy’s mating in June. So, Redy’s first litter

Redy and her grandson

Taking Redy home

Rayridge Dayo Camariya

Redy on the move at EDS’16

Redy on the move at EDS’21

Redy winning Best Of Breed out of 169 RRs

Redy, Theo and Roxie

was registered through another kennel named Deyonga, for which I am very grateful to the breeder, Elena Vargina.

I would have loved to keep one of Redy’s puppies, but my parents were against it once again. We lived in a rented house, and the landlords had barely agreed to Redy, so there was no chance of getting a second Ridgeback.

Redy’s puppies found homes all around the world, and I got to meet many amazing people across Europe. Naturally, I was incredibly drawn to that RR world.

In 2017, our entire family moved to Slovakia.

By then, at 20 years old, I had told my parents that I wanted to live on my own. So, now no one could tell me how many dogs I could have.

The first few years in the new country were tough for us, but that didn’t stop me from traveling all over Europe for shows and various competitions like crazy. Almost every weekend, I was somewhere in a different country, driving alone. How my parents didn’t go gray, I don’t know.

In 2017, I registered my kennel with the FCI—the prefix REDYLAND, of course, in honor of Redy, like the founder. In 2018, I decided I wanted Redy to have another litter, but it had to be special. So, I looked far and wide and ended up on the Australian Rhodesian Ridgeback database, where I fell in love with Mig, Rijstone, What a Cheek. I immediately contacted Mig’s owner, Lynne, and after getting her approval, I brought frozen semen from Mig to Europe.

In May 2018, the REDYLAND “Astonishing” litter was born from Redy and Mig—11 beautiful puppies. Two of them were keepers: Theo, Redyland Again What A Cheek, with me and Emma, co-owns Redyland Always Ready, co-owned with my close friend Erika.

And so began my journey as a breeder.

MY DESIRE TO BECOME A BREEDER

My desire to become a breeder stems primarily from my deep wish to continue the lineage of my beloved Redy. I wanted, and still want, to ensure that her descendants remain in my home, generation after generation. For me, Redy was, and always will be, the ideal dog. She was incredible—kind-hearted and wise beyond her years. We could communicate with just a glance, understanding each other completely. Her temperament and character were exactly what I wanted to see in my next dog. Redy loved everyone around her and was always ready for any adventure with me. She was obedient, confident, and had excellent working abilities, with a natural inclination toward sports. She also achieved great success at international dog shows worldwide. That’s why I firmly decided that I didn’t want any other Rhodesian Ridgeback but her puppy.

MY BREEDING GOALS

My primary goals in breeding are focused on health and temperament. All my dogs are tested for every possible condition known to affect Rhodesian Ridgebacks. I would never allow a carrier

Redyland Again What A Cheek

Redyland Again What A Cheek

of diseases like JME or DM to be part of my breeding program. Even if it’s just a carrier, I simply don’t want to pass these issues on to future generations.

However, I also place significant importance on the working qualities of Rhodesian Ridgebacks and their athletic build. Redy had incredibly beautiful and efficient movement, which she passed on to her offspring. She was a hardworking dog, and that’s precisely what I want to see in RRs—not just dogs that look good lying on the couch.

A strong, level topline and good rear angulation long on the hock are also very important to me. Over the years, I’ve noticed that there aren’t many dogs like this, and the breed is facing issues with weak toplines, cow-hocked legs, weak pasterns, sloping croups, and short strides.

I’m also passionate about introducing new or very old bloodlines to Europe and being part of something fresh and exclusive. Since I don’t breed often, I want each litter to be unique and special.

CHALLENGES I FACED IN BREEDING

Of course, Redy had her flaws, which I recognized and sought to improve. When selecting a second mate for her, I wanted to find a male that would help correct her shortcomings while enhancing her strengths. When I found Mig, I knew he was the one I had been searching for—a male with a show temperament, a strong back, a deep chest, and excellent rear angulation. But there was a risk. He had black hair in his coat, and his color was quite dark.

And, as expected, almost half of the puppies had black hairs in their coats. Unfortunately, this didn’t fade in the puppies I kept, and their color remained very dark. I found myself thinking, “Well, why not? It would have been too easy otherwise,” I said to myself with a wry smile. And I just kept going.

Redyland Always Ready winning Junior Best in Group

Redyland Always Ready and Rayridge Dayo Camariya

Redyland Anyway Anyhow Anywhere and Redyland Always Ready winning BOB and BOS at international dog show in Budapest

THE THORNY PATH OF A YOUNG BREEDER

In the beginning, it was incredibly challenging. I always had, and still have, a clear vision, and I’m very determined. I never aspired to breed dogs just to become a well-known breeder. I became a breeder because I wanted to continue my dog’s lineage. That’s why I didn’t care what others thought when I first bred Redy with a dark-colored male or took the risk with a dog that had dark pigmentation. For me, health was the priority, and I wanted puppies that I liked, regardless of what others thought. At the start of my journey, I faced a lot of criticism from more experienced breeders about the color of my dogs, but I told myself that I had achieved the physical and temperamental qualities I wanted in a Rhodesian Ridgeback. The color could be addressed by future generations.

I always took this criticism as motivation to dig deeper into the breed, to explore, and to learn more. No one is born an Olympic champion. The road to success and recognition is long and thorny.

Over time, I found support from breeders in Australia, very experienced breeders, who validated my risks and supported my ideas. They gave me advice when I needed it and celebrated my successes with me. This support greatly helped me become more confident in myself.

Deyonga Gaya Monifa

There will always be someone who criticizes you. But as my father always said, “If people are talking about you, it means you matter.”.

SHOW SUCCESSES AND VICTORIES I AM PROUD OF

Redy, Rayridge Dayo Camariya achieved championships in 12 different countries, became an International Champion, and won titles at many prestigious shows. At EDS’16 in Brussels, she won the Open Class out of 16 dogs, and at WDS’16, she placed 4th out of 39 champion bitches.

But perhaps her most memorable victories for me were winning Best of Veteran at the World Specialty of RR on October 1, 2021, under Šárka Štusáková, with 170 Ridgebacks entered, and the next day winning Best of Breed and Best of Veteran at the RR Club Show on October 2, 2021, under Milada Krchnava and Hanka Pankova, with 167 Ridgebacks entered. I cried tears of joy that day and am incredibly grateful to those judges for having the courage to award a veteran Best of Breed in such fierce competition.

Later, during the EDS’21 in Budapest, she won Best of Veteran at the RRCH Club Show on December 28, 2021, under Boris Chapiro, with 98 Ridgebacks entered. At EDS’21, she became the Vice Veteran European Winner at almost 10 years old. After that,

I decided to retire Redy from her show career, even though she loved it so much.

Her son, Mac, Redyland Anyway Anyhow Anywhere, was also highly successful at shows, starting his career by winning Baby Best of Breed and Hope of Europe 2018 at the European Dog Show in Warsaw under Claudio de Giuliani. At EDS’21 in Budapest, he won the strong open class under Stefan Sinko.

My Theo, Redyland Again What A Cheek, and his sister Emma, Redyland Always Ready, are both International Champions and Multi Champions. Emma has also won numerous major show, Best in Groups, and Junior Best in Show titles.

Redy’s granddaughter, Roxie, Redyland Cheeky Lemon Drop, at just two years old, would have already earned her International Champion title if not for the required waiting period. She is a Junior Champion in five countries, an adult Champion in four countries, and a candidate for the championship in the next five countries. She won her VDH-EuropaJugendsieger’23 title in Germany out of 13 junior bitches under Dr. Steffen Schock. At the WDS’23 in Geneva, she placed 4th out of 16 junior bitches, and at the EDS’23 in Herning, she placed 5th out of 16 junior bitches. The next day, she won her junior class and then the reserve Best Bitch out of 63 bitches at the international Agria Winner show, at only 13 months old.

Redyland Crawing Kiwi at coursing

Redyland Crawing Kiwi at dock diving

One of Roxie’s most memorable victories for me was winning Best of Breed at a show in Luxembourg, where she triumphed over 62 Ridgebacks under Marko Lepasaar. It happened on her birthday, April 7, when she turned two. What made this particularly special was that, exactly seven years earlier, on April 9, 2017, Redy won Best of Breed under Vlastislav Vojtek on her 5th birthday.

Many of Redy’s children, grandchildren, and now greatgrandchildren are winning at shows in various countries and continents. I am incredibly proud of these successes worldwide.

WORKING QUALITIES

Since Redy possessed numerous working qualities and excelled in this area, she set a high standard for me. I have always tried to guide the owners of her first puppies towards not only participating in shows but also engaging in sports and other activities. Her daughter, Bonya, Deyonga Gaya Monifa, became a three-time Russian coursing champion and a Russian racing champion, winning major championships multiple times. Even at 9 years old, she still runs with the energy and vitality of a young, active dog.

Redy’s other puppies have accompanied their owners in a wide range of activities: hiking, agility, obedience, hunting, and even sailing for months on yachts. Everything their owners tried with them seemed to suit them perfectly.

Theo, Redy’s son from her second litter, whom I kept, is an incredible dog who lives to please me. Despite his darker coat, which made him less successful in shows, I have no regrets about keeping him. He’s a wonderful companion, joining me on many hikes, sleeping in tents with me in the mountains, and traversing challenging mountain ridgelines. He has never had any issues, never needed commands to be repeated, and has always been a quick learner and a wise dog. Theo also knows many tricks and

Redyland Cheeky Lemon Drop winning at Agria Winner’23

Redyland Cheeky Lemon Drop and Redyland Always Ready at WDS’23

excels in nose work.

From Emma’s 2022 litter, I kept Roxie, Redyland Cheeky Lemon Drop, with whom I’ve been training in search and rescue at the rubble and area since she was 3 months old. At 2 years old, she passed exams in both. I don’t know of any other Rhodesian Ridgeback in Europe currently holding these certifications. Roxie has also passed an obedience exam, runs in coursing, participates in nose work, and accompanies me on numerous mountain hikes and travels.

Roxie’s brother, Kiwi, Redyland Crawing Kiwi, who lives in America, is involved in several sports and has earned multiple qualifications by the age of two, something I’m very proud of as a breeder. He is involved in coursing and has earned the SC (Senior Courser) title, which is awarded to dogs that earn qualifying scores at four AKClicensed or member trials under at least three different judges with one other hound present. He also participates in dock diving, holding the titles of DN (Dock Novice, for completing 5 jumps in the 0’1” to 9’11” range) and DJ (Dock Junior, for completing 5 jumps in the 10’0” to 14’11” range). Additionally, Kiwi competes in a sport called barn hunting, where he has earned the RATN (Barn Hunt Novice) title. To achieve this, a dog must earn 3 qualifying scores by completing all elements (climbing on the hay, going through the tunnel, and indicating a tube with a live rat) within a 2-minute time limit. Kiwi also holds trick dog titles and the Canine Good Citizen title.

Seeing Ridgebacks like these, I believe there are no limits to what this breed can achieve. It’s truly incredible, and I hope to see more sportive RRs in the future.

HOW OUR PUPPIES ARE RAISED

This is my favorite part. It’s always so fascinating to watch puppies grow and change.

Our puppies grow up with us in

Redyland Cheeky Lemon Drop at area search

Redyland Cheeky Lemon Drop at the rubble search

the living room, where they are surrounded by our other dogs and where the whole family spends the day together. This environment helps the puppies get used to various everyday sounds and routines from the moment they are born. They are fed high-quality food, supplemented with farm-fresh meat, homemade cottage cheese, yogurt, etc.

The most important aspect for me is the socialization of the puppies. From the moment they open their eyes, we begin various socialization activities with them. We build numerous obstacles for them, like small bridges, balance boards, pools with water and balls, and different interactive toys. We also develop their physical abilities with activities like swimming, playing in the lure course with toys, and navigating various obstacle courses.

From a very young age, we handle them with care and get them accustomed to being touched. They are also socialized with children and our other dogs. After they turn one month old, we allow people to come and visit, playing with the puppies and interacting with them. Starting at seven weeks, we begin actively preparing the puppies for their new homes. We take them for walks around our village, teach them to walk on a leash, socialize them in different large stores and shopping centers where dogs are allowed, and get them used to car rides.

Our puppies go to their new homes with a complete package of essentials, including vitamins and everything necessary for proper feeding and raising them in their new environment. And of course, a lot of toys, a collar and a leash, some gifts, and many others.

My puppy owners receive lifetime support from me. Regardless of what the future owners plan to do with their puppies, I am ready to help and support them at any time.

I don’t insist on a show career for my puppies. My main criterion for selecting future owners is that the puppies become a part of the family, just as my dogs are part of mine. I prioritize people who lead active lifestyles and have enough free time to properly raise a puppy.

WHAT I WANT FOR THE FUTURE OF MY BREEDING

The most important thing for me is that REDYLAND dogs and puppies are healthy, and I put a lot of effort into making sure this is the case. I want to invest love and care into my breeding program while making significant contributions to the breed.

I want REDYLAND dogs to be not only elegant and beautiful show dogs but also active, athletic dogs with well-developed working qualities.

And I eagerly look forward to what the future will bring to me.

Name Valeriia Iurtaeva

Country Slovakia

Affix Redyland

Written by KRGS

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACKS IN SLOVENIA THE RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK CLUB OF SLOVENIA (KRGS)

The Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of Slovenia (referred to as KRGS) was established on November 21, 2007, with the aim of connecting enthusiasts, owners, and breeders of this wonderful breed. The idea of founding the club arose from a desire to exchange information, share experiences, and socialize.

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is becoming an increasingly popular dog breed in Slovenia, so it is important that these experiences and ideas are gathered in one place where they are accessible to everyone interested in this breed and wanting to learn more about it. The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a breed that requires a lot of dedication. It needs plenty of physical activity as it is a very agile and strong dog, but it also needs mental stimulation as it is extremely intelligent. Without proper mental stimulation, it will find entertainment on its own, which can lead to unwanted behavior. With proper upbringing and integration into family life, the right results can be achieved while not neglecting the appearance and health of the dog. Quality coexistence with the Ridgeback is a priority for the club in Slovenia. Over its 17 years of operation, the club has experienced ups and downs, which we hope are behind us, and together with the members and leadership, we aim to elevate the club to a level where it becomes an organization that all Ridgeback owners in Slovenia can turn to and trust.

BEGINNINGS

• On July 25, 2008, we received notification that the KRGS club was accepted into the membership of the Slovenian Kennel Club.

• The first club show was in Koper on October 12, 2008. Judge Mr. Hans W. Müller, an international judge, President of the FCI, and specialist and breeder of Rhodesian Ridgebacks, was invited. The first club show was a rehearsal where the club had to prove its ability to organize events, so CAC titles were not awarded. We must thank everyone who supported us and participated in such large numbers.

• BOB: Ikimba Waitimu, Marek Georg, Germany (Photo 1)

• BOS: Harmakhis Wisdom Isa, Venturelli Sara, Italy (Photo 2)

• Best Slovenian-bred male: Myöllnir Kyala, Gregor, and Snežana Kuralt (Photo 3)

• Best Slovenian-bred female: Thandiwe Tshaka, Maja Turk (Photo 4)

• Number of registered participants/dogs in total: 52

Number of participants/dogs by country: 7 Austria, 1 Belgium 3 Czech Republic, 1 Montenegro, 9 Croatia 6 Italy, 3 Hungary 7 Germany 9 Slovenia, 1 Switzerland

• Number of participants by gender: 21 males, 26 females

• Judge’s word: Dear Snezka Bracun, It was a great pleasure to judge your first Club show in Slovenia. Furthermore, it was very nice to meet you again and to work with you. The atmosphere at the show was excellent, and the quality of the dogs was on a good level. I informed the president of the Slovenian Kennel Club about your well-organized event. For the future, I wish you and the new RR club all the best and hope to meet you again. Best personal regards, Hans W. Müller, President of the FCI

• The first special show of the KRGS Club (with CAC awards) within the CAC Hrušica 2009 show was held on May 31, 2009, at the KD Fido Hrušica training ground. Judge: Angel Garah Domech from Spain.

• BOB: Myöllnir Kyala (achieved R.BEST IN SHOW at the exhibition)

www.mojpes.net

In the following years, the club, under various leaderships, organized some beautiful and successful exhibitions, meetings, and picnics, coursing training, and helped find new homes for Ridgebacks.

Within the club, there is also a section for helping Ridgebacks and their rescue in case they are left homeless due to various circumstances and are looking for a new owner. We already have some stories with a happy ending behind us, and because of them, we will continue to work intensively and help those in need.

We have upgraded the initial club meetings into the project “Discovering Slovenia with Ridgebacks,” through which we explored the beauties of our beautiful country and the kindness of the locals, with the help of members who presented their areas, their natural beauties, and local delicacies.

The club’s activities and operations were somewhat slowed down with the arrival of

COVID-19. However, there were a few individuals who cared about all the years of hard work and reconnected and committed to reviving the club and working for the good of the breed and the owners.

In the recent elections, Snežana Kuralt, who is a judge, owner, and future breeder of Rhodesian Ridgebacks, was elected as the club’s president. The new leadership and team promise new guidelines and energy for the further development of the club. The young management team, consisting of Tina Hernec, Urška Bergant Bertoncelj, and Snežana Kuralt, committed to raising the club to the level of an organization that will work to the best of its ability for the benefit of the breed in Slovenia, is composed of dedicated members striving for the progress and well-being of Rhodesian Ridgebacks. Much attention will be given to proper socialization, breeding assistance, exhibitions, and other fields in cynology, aiming to maintain a good gene pool in Slovenia as well.

The club strives to encourage the presentation of Slovenian Rhodesian Ridgebacks at events at home and abroad and to introduce mandatory hip, elbow, and shoulder x-rays and genetic tests, as required in most European countries. In the future, we will work to bring breeding inspections under the club’s umbrella. As you can see, there will be a lot of work, and the Slovenian club is open to cooperation with other clubs worldwide.

HISTORY OF THE BREED IN SLOVENIA

The first “Slovenian” Rhodesian Ridgeback in Slovenia was Amyndas Ropotamo, born on August 13, 1989, in the Czech kennel Ropotamo, but he was never registered in the studbook. At about three and a half years old, he was injured in a car accident.

The first registered in the Slovenian Studbook was Lologo Ayaba, a Ridgeback imported in 1996 from the Croatian kennel Ayaba. The first female registered in the studbook was imported into Slovenia from the Slovak kennel Aquila Bojnice in 2000. Her name was Cora Aquila Bojnice, and her litter was registered in the Slovenian studbook under the markings SLR RR 00008–000016.

Some statistics: By 2024, 371 dogs were registered in the Slovenian Studbook. Of these, 155 are females and 216 are males. In the last year, 2023, we had two litters, both with 8 puppies. The sires come from Germany and Croatia. In 2023 and 2024, 8 dogs were imported (registered in the Slovenian Studbook) from abroad, from Latvia, Croatia, and Slovakia. These are the data related to registrations in the studbook. The actual number is probably higher, but these are not registered in the Slovenian Kennel Club’s studbook. One of the club’s tasks will also be to organize records for the Ridgebacks in Slovenia and try to improve the diversity of lines in Slovenia. We are facing

a trend of importing more dogs from the neighboring country of Croatia than from other countries. Most puppies from Slovenian litters remain in Slovenia.

The club will continue to strive to fulfill its mission—to unite all those who are fascinated by this exceptional breed. It will advocate for diverse breeding and expanding the gene pool. With the club’s experts, we will focus on health and encourage activities with Ridgebacks and proper socialization of the dogs, and by organizing breeding education, provide members with the best support on their journey.

Our next task is to present the club at the upcoming European show, which will take place in October in Celje. The club will have its own booth there and will sell symbolic products of our members and the club. It will also be possible to join the club.

At the upcoming European show, a club exhibition will be organized under the Slovenian Kennel Club on October 4, 2024, named the National Club Specialty Winner 2024, sponsored by Royal Canin. I hope to see you in large numbers.

In 2025, the club is organizing a club exhibition. It is scheduled for April at a very beautiful venue, where 2 x CACIB and 1 x CAC: Barje + Vrbljene have been successfully held for years. Invited judge: Sandra Piscedda, Italy. With combined efforts, we will certainly achieve excellent results and contribute to the good name of the Rhodesian Ridgebacks in Slovenia.

HALL OF FAME

Slovenia is a very small country, yet we can mention quite a few successful members and their Ridgebacks.

Some achievements of members:

Myöllnir Kyala ‘Cubo’ Male

C.I.B. / JCH: SLO, HR, BIH, CH: A, SLO, HR, BIH, MNE, Candidate: CH:HU

Born 17.06.2006-DOD: 05.05.2015, Owners: Gregor, Snežana Kuralt

AbioyeMbalenhle Kamau Tau ‘Pepito’ Male

JCH: SLO, CH: SLO, Photos by Blayo

Born 02.02.2018, Owner: Andreja Balkovec

Tusani Junior Great Maxim ‘Sky’ Male

CH: SLO, Candidate: CH: HR, C.I.B., Photos by: Špela Pogačar Born 20.07.2020, Owner: Tina Hernec

Kei Komainu Neomele ‘Spencer’ Male

Slo Hope, JCH: SLO, CH: SLO, Candidate: HR, C.I.B.-J, C.I.B. Born 25.11.2022, Owner: Urska Bergant Bertoncelj

Paco Buddy Ayaba ‘Paco’ Male

CH: SLO, BIH, HR, RS, GrCH: BIH, Candidate: CH: HU, SK

Born 26.11.2020, Owners: Danijela in Denis Stepančič

Kan Komainu Neomele ‘Bensen’ Male

Slovenian Hope

Born 25.11.2022, Owner: Liam Marcel Pompe

Harmakhis Wisdom Zuri Asha ‘Asha’ Female

JCH: SLO, CH: SLO, BIH, Candidate: CH: C.I.B., RS, Photos by Vesna Skodič, blayo, Federica Cattaneo Ponzoni. Born 06.02.2013 - 17.08.2020, Owner: Andreja Balkovec

Pea Pea Ayaba ‘Pea’ Female

CH: SLO, Candidate: CH: HR, C.I.B., Photo by Dora Levstek Born 26.11.2020, Owner: Marko Povirk

Just A Flirt Of Luanda ‘STARR’ Female

C.I.B., CH: SLO, BIH, HR, GrCH: SLO, BIH, Candidate: CH: IT, GrCH: IT, Born 13.01.2021, Owners: Gregor, Snežana Kuralt

Godsent Muse Free Soul Of Safari ‘Safari’ Female

Candidate: CH: SLO, Born 18.03.2022, Owner: Ksenija Pahovnik

Saimon’s Praide Dior Fashion ‘Pandora, Dora’ Female

Candidate: CH: SLO

Born 11.09.2021, Owner: Ksenija Pahovnik

We warmly invite you to join us at our events next year.

We are a dedicated group within our club, committed to working for the betterment of the breed and its future. By attending our exhibitions, you will greatly support us and contribute to the development of our club.

We look forward to welcoming you in Slovenia!

WRITTEN BY PÄIVI SORMUNEN

PHOTOS BY KATI KETONEN

THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF NOSEWORK

NOSEWORK IS A SCENT-WORK ACTIVITY FOR DOGS BASED ON THEIR NATURAL ABILITY TO DETECT ODORS.

Nosework was developed in the United States in 2008, and it was originally used to increase the self-confidence of rescue dogs. However, sniffing and active nosework were found to have positive effects on the well-being of dogs, and the sport quickly expanded for all dog enthusiasts. Nosework is suitable for dogs of all breeds, sizes, and ages. It allows dogs to release excess energy through their instinctual behavior of sniffing. A dog’s confidence also grows with successful scent discoveries. As a hobby, nosework doesn’t require large investments. Scent hydrolats and containers are quite affordable, and training can be done practically anywhere.

NOSEWORK IN FINLAND

Nosework has been an official trial form of the Finnish Kennel Club since the beginning of 2020. The dog is trained to identify and indicate three different target scents as well as their combinations. The scents searched are eucalyptus, bay leaf, and lavender. Nosework includes four types of searches: indoor, outdoor, container, and vehicle searches. There are two different trial forms in use. In all search forms, the dog performs a partial trial in four different search areas in the same tri-

al. In a single-section trial, four different searches are performed using one search type. In both trial forms, there are three classes. In the 1st class, eucalyptus is used as the target scent; in the 2nd class, eucalyptus and bay leaf, as well as their combination, are used; in the 3rd class, eucalyptus, bay leaf, and lavender, as well as their combinations, are used.

BRIEFLY ABOUT ME AND ARMI

I have had Rhodesian Ridgebacks for over 20 years, and I have also bred six litters under the kennel name Feanor’s. I have actively competed in various dog sports (e.g., obedience, rally obedience, and agility) with all my previous dogs. Armi (Kxoxo Devil With A Halo To Feanor’s) has also been trained in a goal-oriented manner since she was a puppy. Our main sports are obedience, rally obedience, and dog shows. Armi is lively and independent, but also work-oriented. Training her has been relatively easy, and she tolerates repetitions well during practice without getting bored. Armi has been an eager nose user since she was a little puppy. This has also brought challenges to practicing other disciplines such as rally obedience and obedience training, as scents sometimes completely distract her. Therefore, I decid-

ed to start nosework with Armi, so she would have the opportunity to use her nose in an acceptable manner and be rewarded for it.

ARMI’S JOURNEY IN THE SPORT

Nosework was a completely new sport to me, so Armi and I headed to a beginners’ course at the beginning of 2024. In the beginners’ course, the dog was taught to recognize the scent of eucalyptus and the basics of signaling. One drop of eucalyptus-scented hydrolat is administered with a pipette onto a cotton pad, i.e., a transfer. The cotton pad is placed inside a container with holes. Initially, the dog is rewarded for showing interest in the container and the scent inside. In the next phase, two containers are used, one containing the scent to be trained. The dog is rewarded for showing interest in the container with the training scent. Gradually, the number of containers increased. Armi worked very enthusiastically from the first session and progressed surprisingly quickly. I also taught her a specific command to start the nosework activity. Of course, we also practiced at home between sessions. By the second course session, we moved on to using three containers, one with

the scent to be found. The containers were placed in a container holder, where their positions were switched. The dog received a reward for indicating the correct container. On the third session, we started adding so-called distraction scents to the other containers and began training on container tracks. Distraction scents can include, for example, hairs from another animal, food, pieces of toys, etc. Common signaling methods are nose touch to the scent, sitting, lying down, or combinations of these. I decided right from the start that I would teach Armi the nose touch. Initially, Armi’s accepted signal was just a brief touch to the correct scent container, for which she was rewarded. To make the scent appealing and recognition faster, I paid a lot of attention to ensuring that the reward always came from the top of the correct scent source, i.e., the container. Armi has been trained using clicker training methods. Clicker training was also a great benefit in this sport because it allowed a quick signal of finding the right scent, and then the reward followed. To my and the course instructor’s surprise, Armi was able to work intensively for the entire course session, and while the other dogs were clearly tired, Armi wanted to continue. It must be said that after the training sessions, Armi was always tired, so

Brick wall

the energetic dog had clearly managed to release her excess energy through her favorite mental work.

After the beginners’ course, we continued training at home. However, I needed assurance on how to proceed with the training and how to strengthen Armi’s signaling. So, at the beginning of summer, we headed to an advanced course. The advanced course focused on strengthening Armi’s signaling and allowed us to train not only on container tracks but also on scent walls. Scent containers were hidden in various scent walls (brick wall, pipe wall, MudControl wall), from which the dog had to find the right scent. The signaling was strengthened by requiring a longer duration for the nose touch. Initially, I practiced duration with one container in my hand, and gradually I also required duration for containers on the ground and on the walls. Once a proper duration for the signaling was achieved, it was easier to ensure that Armi had identified the right scent. On the scent walls, there were dozens of containers; only a few contained the eucalyptus scent to be found.

FUTURE PLANS

Originally, the idea was to engage in the sport just to satisfy Armi’s natural scent work and to activate her. Now that Armi has had the opportunity to actively use her nose in nosework, I’ve noticed that she doesn’t have the same need to go after smells when training in other sports. Of course, we have also worked on maintaining contact and tolerating disturbances at the same time, so overall, we are on the right path.

I’m quite competitive myself; the idea of competing in nosework has also come to mind. Since the sport is completely new to me, I need to get more experience before we start competing. Now we focus on training independently, and scent containers are hidden at home in furniture, on the terrace, as well as on scent walls at the training hall.

Mudcontrol wall

Signaling

In the fall, we will start training in the coaching group. The purpose is still to strengthen Armi’s signaling and practice different search types. The scent searched for in the coaching group is kong, which is practically a piece of the well-known toy. Instead of hydrolats, a piece of Kong toy is easier to handle and also easier to hide in relation to different search types. We are looking forward to what the fall course will bring. And let’s see if next year we dare to try the trials as well.

Nosework is a really captivating sport. Although Armi and I have only had a short experience with it, I dare to recommend the sport to everyone. It’s incredibly great to watch how intensely the dog searches for hidden scents and enjoys the activity, which is typical for its species. And best of all, it’s fun and strengthens your relationship.

References:

The Finnish Kennel Club: Nosework. https://www.kennelliitto.fi/koiraharrastukset/kokeet-ja- kilpailut/nosework

WRITTEN BY EVA-LENA GODEHARDT-STAMM AND MEIKE SCHMIDT

RHODESIAN RIDGEBACKS AND HORSES A SPECIAL FRIENDSHIP

Actually, it can’t work: the predatory dog and the escape animal horse are “genetic enemies.” And yet, with consistent education and confidence-building, it is possible to bring the two together. Not only as a community of purpose, but in the end even as a functioning team in which everyone has fun. A riding companion dog should have a firm character, be able to concentrate well, and listen to you reliably.

In principle, almost all breeds of dogs can be trained as riding companions, including crossbreeds. It is important that they are physically healthy, willing to run, obedient, and used to horses. In addition, it is advisable to venture out on a ride only with adult dogs. A young dog whose musculoskeletal system is not yet fully developed cannot and should not run long distances; running next to a horse would put too much strain on his joints.

Going for a ride with your horse and being accompanied by your Rhodesian Ridgeback seems like a dream for many people who are in love with horses and Rhodesian Ridgebacks at the same time. And it definitely is. But there is a lot of work, training, and loving consequences behind this romantic picture. Why? We would like to tell you. We all know that the Rhodesian Ridgeback was originally bred

and used as a hunting dog, and these genes never get lost. Some have more hunting ambition, some less. Every Rhodesian Ridgeback can be a dog that accompanies a rider or horse; it´s just a matter of how intensely you train it. Even though this breed is not used for hunting by the majority of their owners today, you still feel that they have a passion for it, which makes the training combination of horse and dog not always easy. Safety first is always the most important part of this amazing combination, for the rider, the horse, and, of course, the dog as well. You have to make sure your dog is obedient, for example, when meeting joggers, wild animals in the wood, a group of bikers, crossing a street, etc. At the same time, your horse has to have a calm character, not be scared of the impulsive movements of the dog, agricultural engines on the field and their noise, and so much more. Only if rider, horse, and dog trust each other can the dream come true, because otherwise it can turn out to be a dangerous nightmare, for example, when the dog starts chasing a rabbit across the street with cars and the rider on the horse can´t leash the dog quick enough. There are many scenarios that riders with dogs can be scared of. To prevent them and become a “perfect” rider-horse-dog team, we start as early as possible with the training of the dog.

STEP 1: OBEDIENCE

Without your dog being reliable and obedient, don´t even think about taking him on a ride with your horse. It is too dangerous for all participants and can end in a nightmare.

Your dog has definitely got to listen to the following commands: no, sit, down, stay, stop, left, right, back, and ahead. For us, all commands are important, but most importantly is the command “ahead,” because then we see the dog in front of us and the horse and can make sure it does not get a side or back kick from the horse, which can always happen and can be deadly for the dog.

When you sit on the horse, you have to absolutely trust your dog to listen to you when you tell him to stop and sit when a street is coming into the village you have to cross or to come to you when a rabbit or deer is crossing your way in the woods. But also, when handling a horse without sitting on it, it is important that the dog follows the rules; for example, stay away from the electric fence when getting the horse off the pasture, stay calm in his place when cleaning or saddling the horse, and don’t walk around the horse’s legs, etc.

STEP 2: ACCEPT THE HORSE AND BE PATIENT.

We start training our dogs from the very first day they are with us to be in company with horses, but we never let them alone with horses. It is important that the dogs accept the horses around them and, of course, the other way around too. Of course, we have to do this with a very calm and friendly horse that we can trust 100% because we have to give all our attention to the dog and his training. We take the dogs (already as puppies, of course) with us in the stable; we show them around; we let them sniff each other; we want to show dog and horse: you can be ok with each other; we take care of and handle every situation for both of you well. Of course, the dogs are not allowed to bark at the horse; they are also not allowed to go close to the legs because a kick can be deadly; they are not allowed to chase them; and we have to be patient when caring for the horse, such as by cleaning stables, feeding them, preparing them for a ride, etc.

STEP 3: WALK NEXT TO THE HORSE

When we think the dogs feel comfortable with the presence of horses around them in everyday situations, we start with easy training, such as walking on the leash next to the horse, and after this, without the leash. We have to train the dog to be close enough to the horse so we can still interact with him, but also far enough away to prevent the horse from stepping on the dog, kicking it, etc. This part of training the dog to be a horseriding companion takes the longest because it sets the basics for all that’s coming in the future. We walk the dogs in many different situations with the horse: in the stable, at the paddock, in the pasture, in the village, just everywhere you can imagine. Since a horse is just so much stronger than a human,

we have to rely on their behavior as well, because in a critical situation, we have to let go of the dog and trust him to stay calm and behave while we worry about the horse more because it can cause more damage, problems, and injuries.

STEP 4. BEEING CALM DURING HORSE MOVEMENT

When the dog has trustful obedience and has proven that he can focus on the owner while a horse is around him (as described above), we can start to do all these steps from the beginning, but now during faster horse movement, which is mostly the most difficult part of all, we see how much “hunting” blood is in the dog in the end and how much “escape drive” the horse has when they run next to each other. Sometimes from one second to another, the horse can be afraid of a dog running next to him, and sometimes the dog sees the horse as prey and starts chasing it, which is not only dangerous for the dog when he starts barking and trying to literally catch the horse (feet), but mostly for the rider, who has to calm down the horse with overspeed, get the dog back to adequate obedience, and most importantly, save his life while not falling off the horse, for example.

We also have to differentiate between hunting and chasing: a dog might not go hunting after animals in the woods, but if you canter with your horse really fast, it might happen that the dog has fun chasing it, which is of course also not allowed.

We start training this “at home,” not in the fields or wood, and we are never alone with horse and dog, of course. It takes a lot of effort from many people to help the dog owner train the dog to accompany a horse one day; you can´t do it all alone. The first step here is that we have the dog on a long leash and a rider on the horse doing their work, so the dog is free enough that he could stand up and run after the horse (so we can correct him due to the long leash), but he is still not completely free. The second step is the same spot, but without the leash. Mostly, if step one is trained constantly and long enough, step 2 is easy. The next step would be to repeat this “outside” with and without a leash. You have to do all these 4 steps as long as you are 100% confident and sure that you will be able to be on a horse yourself and can “only” interact with your dog with your voice from a distance (on the horse).

STEP 5: ON THE HORSE

When the time is right, of course we don’t start “big.” We start, as always, in small steps, so we get on the horse and don´t move around much; we just practice the dog’s obedience while on the horse, and then step by step, we start moving slowly, then getting faster. And eventually, after many hours, days, weeks, months, and sometimes years, you get the feeling: We are ready now. As a team. We can trust each other so much that we can safely go for a ride together. It´s always better to not go alone for a ride, for your own safety if something happens. So we always ask a friend to join us for a ride.

We have talked about a lot of “dos” regarding horses and dogs, but we also want to mention two important “don’ts” because we think it is very dangerous for all: we never have the dog on the leash while we are on the horse! Then, the dog is always free. That’s why he has to be so obedient. Why? Because the leash can get entangled with the horse’s legs in different situations. Or when the horse runs off because it was scared by some-

thing and the rider can´t get the leash off quick enough, you pull the dog behind you and the running horse. Also, when you ride with the dog on the leash, the leash can wrap around something at different speeds, and the dog can be choked.

The other “don´t” is: horse stable, paddock, and in general, around the horse, there is no playground for the dogs, especially not unattended.

All in all, riding with a dog is not as easy as it may seem at first, especially if you want to have a reliable influence on the dog. We, as riding people, have to mediate between different creatures, and at the same time, we have to get involved with two different languages and forms of communication. This often requires very complex thinking, which also needs to be practiced by humans. Once these difficulties have been overcome, certain rituals have been established, and with enough practice, there is also security and control over a wide variety of situations. I promise you that there are hardly any more relaxing and beautiful moments than roaming through woods, meadows, and fields together with a dog and horse.

EARLY NEUROLOGICAL STIMULATION OF PUPPIES

the ‘Super Dog’ program

Sylwia Kołodziejczak, Sirius - Canis Maior kennel

www.shana.pl

Iknew that I wanted to work with dogs from the very beginning of my Rhodesian Ridgeback adventure. While choosing Shana, the founder of my dog breeding, I took into account that her parents should be working dogs. This is how it all started: we have been running dog-related workshops in kindergartens since 2014, and now it’s Shana’s fourth generation with whom I continue our activities. One essential stage in the development of puppies is their stay in the breeding, equally important as the breeder’s dealing. I have been introducing early neurological stimulation to the young dogs since 2016, when the first litter in my breeding was born. Having analyzed puppies’ environments, I concluded that there are three crucial types of stimulating influences that are responsible for the formation of each animal. These are, namely, early developmental neurological stimulation, socialization, and enrichment. In addition to genetics, the environment and the amount of stimulation from the very first days have a huge impact on the animals’ future. Although newborn dogs are blind and deaf, and one of their first intuitive reflexes is only to suckle, it has been revealed by research that they are sensitive to tactile, thermal, and motor stimuli. Furthermore, the provision of early neurological stimulation between 3 and 16 days of age has a positive effect on many aspects, such as the development of puppies’ circulatory, endocrine, and immune systems, along with an increase in the pace and quality of it.

The Bio Sensor (‘Super Dog’) program involves a series of five simple stimulation exercises, carried out once a day. Only one exercise at a time should be done with each puppy individually. This method was invented and described in detail by specialists from the US Army, who had been training dogs for military purposes.

EXERCISES IN THE ‘SUPER DOG’ PROGRAM:

1. Tactile stimulation between fingertips

Hold the puppy on its back in one hand, then provide the other hand with a cotton ear cleaning stick. Gently touch the fingertips of each dog’s paw and the space between the pads. It is not necessary for the puppy to give signals that it feels the touch.

2. Raising the head

Hold the puppy in both hands: embrace its back with one hand and support its butt with the other one. Change its position so that the puppy has its head facing up.

3. Lowering the head

Holding the puppy firmly with both hands, turn it upside down so that its head is pointing vertically down.

4. Back position

As you continue to hold the puppy, turn it horizontally on its back. Make sure its back rests on your hands, with the dog’s nose pointing upwards. The dog’s behavior does not matter, including the puppy’s attempt to fall asleep.

5. Thermal stimulation

Put the young dog with its paws down on a damp towel, which had been previously held in a refrigerator for at least 5 minutes. Do not stop the puppy from crawling and moving around.

Being on such an early stage of development, it is natural for puppies that they lack access to the aforementioned stimuli. Any new experiences would help them achieve faster progress from the very first days of their lives. The benefits of puppies’ early neurological stimulation include improved cardiac vascular function, increased resistance to stress and disease, a stronger cardiovascular system, and, lastly, boosting their adrenaline capacity by stimulating adrenal glands. I have also observed in my breeding that litters born in the autumn-winter period are less prone to colds and diseases, under the condition that they are given reasonable time outside in the comfort of our garden. What is more, dogs treated this way are more willing to go for walks in bad weather as adults, which is, as each dogowner knows, not an easy task.

The ‘interaction’ period, which lasts between the 3rd and 16th days of a dog’s life, is of vital importance for newborn puppies. Any negligence might result in the animal’s difficulties in adapting to the social environment. There is also a risk of

dogs’ limited ability to learn new skills and accept new situations. This is very evident in the case of puppies raised without their mother. In addition to having problems with other dogs, they are often anxious or struggle with fearful aggression. A comprehensive improvement in the dog’s organism might be secured by the introduction of only 5 short exercises. The positive effects are permanent and clearly visible in the dog’s adult life. It is therefore worth spending a few minutes a day to enable our puppies to have a better start into the future.

PUPPY CULTURE

A New Dimension To Breeding

“Puppy

Culture Gives Your Puppies An Amazing Start In Life ”

Veronica Thorén

It’s never too late to learn, and new scientific findings emerge all the time, offering insights that may help us to be and do better in all aspects of life. I started my breeding in 1998, and my experience at that time was that puppies in general were kept in a secluded space with access to mom, sometimes the other dogs of the pack, various toys, and human visitors. They were socialized in their home environment, and in the best case, they got to hear normal household sounds like a vacuum cleaner, blender, and TV and to meet children and people of various shapes and forms. Some breeders made an effort to offer a variety of toys, but usually the puppies’ environments didn’t offer lots of enrichment. There was also little focus on offering each puppy individual experiences or challenges.

After some years away from breeding, we made a fresh start with our breeding program in 2020. During my time away, I had noticed several breeder colleagues in Australia doing Puppy Culture with their litters. I found this intriguing and started out by looking at Puppy Culture: The original film, which offers 50 video lessons and is over 5 hours long. This film explains the different steps of Puppy Culture as well as the scientific data they are based on. In theory, this seemed like such an excellent approach to giving puppies the best start in life, and I was so excited to give it a go. After my first litter raised with Puppy Culture, I was hooked! It was so rewarding and educational and brought a completely new dimension to the upbringing of litter.

The below text is based on information on websites, articles, and discussion forums from the Puppy Culture crew, mixed with my personal reflections from having performed the full Puppy Culture protocol for my last four litters.

WHAT IS PUPPY CULTURE?

Puppy Culture is a socialization and training program for puppies that is based on the latest science and studies on puppy and animal rearing. The program is specifically developed for puppies from birth through the end of their critical socialization period, with age-appropriate protocols and lessons laid out in an organized format.

Puppy Culture is based on the premise that the puppy always leads the learning, and puppies learn best by appropriate experiences at the appropriate time. So what we are doing is to observe the puppy and, based on the behavioral markers we see, serve the puppy the experience or lesson that is optimal for him at that moment in time.

By letting the puppy lead, we are: maximizing the benefit of any given protocol or lesson minimizing any danger of overfacing or scaring the puppy

creating confidence and self-efficacy by presenting the appropriate level of challenge that the puppy CAN do without failing or presenting a danger to himself.

WHY IS IT SO IMPORTANT TO WATCH EACH PUPPY?

Things that are perfect in one developmental period could be useless or even detrimental in the next, and vice versa. Puppy Culture teaches the breeder to know where each puppy is developmentally and what to do right now.

It’s really all about observing the puppy and serving him the learning experience he is asking for at that precise age and developmental stage. What the puppy is presented with each week depends on the age and the developmental markers we observe in the litter.

Puppy Culture is a positive, reinforcement-based program, and we do not use corrections or outmoded dominance theory.

EARLY NEUROLOGICAL STIMULATION

From birth and to the day they move, our puppies receive individual cuddling sessions involving touching and stroking by the breeder every day. When the pups are 3–16 days old, Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) is done, provided that this protocol is suitable for the litter. ENS is a process that introduces mild stresses to very young puppies in a controlled way. These stresses help stimulate the neurological system, which improves the growth and development of the pup’s immune system, cardiovascular system, and stress tolerance.

SIMULATED MATERNAL STIMULATION

If the delivery was stressful for the mother and/or puppies, or there are other factors that may mean that ENS would provide too much stress (i.e., an unthrifty puppy, a sick puppy, or a puppy needing supplementation), one can instead perform Simulated maternal stimulation (SMS). This means that each puppy receives extra touch stimuli every day. Ideally, each puppy is stroked with a soft brush, for example, a makeup brush, to mimic the

mother’s care. When a puppy is licked, it activates Glucocorticoid receptors (GR). GR receptors are what tell the body to shut down a stress response. Having more GR receptors will help you recover more quickly from stress and shut down cortisol production quicker. Moreover, neonatal touch also releases oxytocin and lowers blood pressure. Furthermore, animals who had neonatal stroking have been shown to have lower blood pressure as adults.

SMS is particularly important if the mom is not licking her puppies. In this case, each puppy should get a total of 30-45 minutes per day of individual stroking. If the mother does lick her puppies, SMS is not as crucial, but daily stroking and touch will teach the puppy that human touch is calming and positive, possibly programming an oxytocin release in response to human touch. So cuddling and stroking puppies, even if it’s only for a few seconds per puppy, has benefits. Please note that this protocol is performed while the puppy remains in the whelping box with its siblings. Young puppies should not be moved away from their pack or lifted/elevated unnecessarily.

NOVEL OBJECTS

From when the pups are 2 weeks old, a new object is introduced every day. The first week the objects are tactile in different materials since the pups are too young to interact with them. When they are 3 weeks old, we introduce objects that move and make sounds. At 4 weeks, the objects are of the nature that the pups can interact with them (carry or climb over). This teaches the puppies to respond well to novelties. When a toy is taken away from the puppy pen and left to rest for a week, it can be reintroduced as a new toy, as the pups will then consider it a novelty.

SOUND HABITUATION

From 3 weeks of age, we do daily sound habituation with all kinds of sounds (horses, sirens, airplanes, babies, thunderstorms, etc.). There are ready-made playlists with different sounds on YouTube and Spotify. The noise recording needs to be almost inaudible at first, and we only gradually raise the volume as the puppies habituate (fail to react) to each volume level.

It’s also important for the pups to hear the everyday noises of a household and the surrounding world. Again, if you want to habituate your puppy to, for example, a blow dryer, set it up in another room and let it run, and only move it incrementally closer as you see that the puppies are not having any response to it. Always start really low and very, very gradually work up.

Habituation can be done at any age in a puppy’s life and does not require anything except that you keep the stimulus (the thing to which you are habituating the puppy) mild enough so that the puppy does not have any fear response. This makes it a favorite of breeders who are pressed for time

and don’t want to or just don’t have the time to get into elaborate training protocols that require skill and timing.

STARTLE AND RECOVERY TRAINING

There is a very short time frame from when the pups have opened their ears until they have developed a fear response. This means that for a few days the pups will hear and react to loud sounds, and they will startle, but they are unable to feel fear. Since they do not become frightened, they will immediately recover. Startle recovery is a very specific thing—it’s a quick, involuntary movement—it almost looks like the puppy is being jerked on a string—after which the puppy immediately continues on with his business. We use this time window wisely by performing a certain protocol. For example, we may drop a pile of books or several dishes to create a sharp sound. Or open an umbrella close to the puppies. Each exercise is carried out in a specific manner. Exposing the puppies to sudden noises or events during a period when they are physically unable to feel fear will give the puppies a faster and better recovery as adults.

You should NEVER be frightening your puppies. If a protocol produces a fear response in your puppy, it is the wrong protocol for that puppy at that time. That is why the program gives us behavioral markers, not dates, to determine the correct start and stop times for protocols.

COUNTERCONDITIONING

There are always things that are bound to be challenging to the puppy and that you may proactively work to facilitate. It could be, for example, touching body parts, taking away food or objects, or restraining the puppy. A technique used to make these things easier for the puppies is counterconditioning, which means that you work on shaping positive conditioned emotional responses in situations when the pups may otherwise feel pressured or uncomfortable. In Puppy Culture, it is called CER—creating emotional responses. This is structured training to make the pup associate something potentially negative with something very positive.

Counterconditioning is completely different than habituation in that you present an aversive thing to them (i.e., removing food or a toy) and then immediately afterwards present the puppy with something marvelous so that, eventually, the puppy has a happy emotional response to the thing that was originally aversive because now that thing predicts something that is truly marvelous.

Counterconditioning is a little tricky since it demands some skill and timing to get it right. You also have to be able to accurately predict what you can offer the puppy, which is so great that it very much trumps the adverseness of whatever

you are doing to the puppy. If you are removing a toy and instead offering a treat, the treat must be something that the puppy is wild for, and that is by far more valuable to the puppy. Some puppies are simply not food- or object-motivated enough for a counterconditioning protocol to be effective.

BARRIER CHALLENGE

As the puppies grow, we give them barriers to overcome, both in their everyday play area and in order to reach their food or a reward. The object of the barrier is to create a mild frustration and teach the puppy that not giving in to this frustration will lead to a reward, such as reaching the food bowl. There seems to always be one puppy in the litter who initially becomes passive when presented with a barrier challenge and becomes increasingly frustrated as the siblings manage to get past the challenge and the pup is left behind. This puppy receives coaxing and verbal support, and as it finally manages to overcome the challenge on its own accord, we find that this puppy has grown tremendously in self-esteem. It’s often the case that the puppy who was struggling with the first proper barrier challenge will be the most determined and motivated puppy the next time around. The puppy has learned that being passive and crying for help will lead nowhere, whereas exploring your options and not giving up will eventually lead to something positive.

CLICKER TRAINING: POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT

When the puppies become interested in food, we “charge up the clicker,” which means that we train the pups to associate the clicker with a reward (a high-value treat). As soon as this is done, we begin different kinds of target training, which is entirely positive reinforcement-based. This means that we do not show or help the puppies perform but rather allow the puppies to offer different behaviors and reinforce (give treats) when the pups show the right behaviors. It’s unbelievable how quickly they work out what they need to do in order to get their reward. As the pups grow older, we do basic heel work, down, recall, show stack, and start nose work—all training being done with positive reinforcement of the desired behaviors.

MANDING: GIVE YOUR PUPPY A VOICE

Puppies have needs, and they express them through behaviors. They have tangible needs such as food, water, shelter, and access to toilet areas, and they also have complex social and emotional needs such as affection, play, and touch. The behaviors that puppies naturally use to express their needs are unpopular with humans. The “bad dog” litany of jumping, nipping, barking, and stealing is rolled out, and the pet owner becomes focused on “stopping” the “problem” behaviors.

Instead of allowing the puppy to try different approaches to be heard and risk creating frustration, we teach the puppies to communicate through manding. A mand behavior is a nonverbal way to ask for things and/or signal a need. In Puppy Culture, we teach the puppies that the most effective way to have their needs met is by performing a certain behavior. We use a sit behavior for manding. There is nothing “magic” about the sit behavior as a mand. You could just as easily teach a stand, a paw wave, a play bow, or a bark. We use sit because it’s easy for humans to read and is a clear criterion to train for.

Manding is the concept that it is possible to get something the puppy wants by performing a behavior. It is not a rule that the puppy must offer acceptable behavior in order to access desired social contact or other pleasurable things, like food. This is a forward communication from the puppy to you, not a top-down rule imposed by you on the puppy. That’s why we call it “Give Your Puppy A Voice” instead of “Teach Your Puppy Manners.” They are two completely different things. Manding is about empowering the puppy and instilling the realization that they are heard. The behavioral benefits of manding spring from that well, not from a “good manners” skill set. Although the end result is a puppy that jumps and paws less, that is a byproduct of manding, not an end in and of itself.

“Manding” means that the pups sit still, demanding attention or a treat, rather than jumping at us in order to get it. This behavior is rewarded every time, and the pups pick it up so easily. Due to manding, when the pups move to their new homes they are perceived as “polite” and sensible rather than pushy and unruly, which helps their interaction with people tremendously.

PUPPY PARTY

When the pups are 6.5 weeks old, it’s the best age for a puppy party. A puppy party means inviting dog-savvy friends over to work with the puppies, as well as having a nice and sociable hangout. Each puppy gets to work with a person they don’t know and perform different tasks while being rewarded with positive reinforcement (clicker and treats). The object is not to make the puppy perform difficult tasks but to give it an opportunity to interact with new people while offering behaviors and receiving rewards. Each puppy has a very limited time working with a new person before being put away to rest before a new session with a new person. The main object of the puppy party is socialization with humans.

THE BENEFITS OF PUPPY CULTURE FOR THE PUPPY FAMILY

When we have performed the steps of Puppy Culture according to the protocol, we will

undoubtedly have a profound knowledge of each puppy’s personality, including mental strengths and weaknesses. This means that we have the knowledge and insight to provide each puppy family with individual advice on how to train their pup going forward. We can teach our puppy owners to enjoy each puppy for the precious individual he is and to tease out the best qualities in that puppy, rather than holding the puppy up to an arbitrary yardstick and labeling him as a problem if he does not measure up.

Many puppies are labeled as having behavior or temperament issues when they are simply being served an inappropriate experience for their developmental age. This can hobble the puppy for the rest of his life with an unjust label that will cause people to treat him in an unthoughtful manner. By letting the puppy lead, you avoid this and enjoy your puppy for the wonderful individual that he is. So you watch the puppy and see what learning experience he’s ready for. And learning what those experiences are and how to effectively serve them is a big part of the Puppy Culture program.

THE PUPPY CULTURE EXPERIENCE

As a breeder, doing the Puppy Culture program has added a completely new dimension to having a litter. Whereas previously the interactions with the pups were mostly feeding, cleaning, and cuddling, this program offers so many interesting experiences and insights. With this protocol, I’m getting to know each puppy individually and form an attachment to each pup as I learn of their qualities and needs. The program is timeconsuming; there is just no way around it. You need to be prepared to invest a considerable amount of time in each puppy, and merely getting the hang of the different protocols is a challenge. Luckily, there is a support group on Facebook where the Puppy Culture experts offer advice. The Original Film is a must, and I also strongly advise getting the Puppy Culture workbook, which in a very methodical way guides you through the different parts of the program, what needs to be done, and when.

One of the biggest benefits of Puppy Culture is the level of research that went into developing not just the core protocols but the timing and the safety bumpers, which, if respected, will keep breeders from unintentionally doing something that won’t have a long-term benefit to the puppy. Giving the pups an extraordinary start in life while resting assured that the right measures are taken at the right time is nothing short of an amazing experience.

Since my first litter, something I’ve always emphasized to future owners of my puppies is that the relationship with their dog is, above all, the cornerstone for a peaceful life.

This concept is often difficult to convey to families who are focused solely on the future new family member during pre-adoption meetings.

Starting with the puppy’s arrival at home, by instance. While it is an infinite joy for the new owner, the puppy experiences its first major “trauma” of its life, being separated from the mother and siblings.

In collaboration with Elena Dall’Ara from Scuola Cinofila2Mondi, who continues this introduction, we have observed and emphasized over the years some basic concepts for the well-being of each individual puppy.

From sleeping in contact with littermates to the opportunity to interact with the existing pack, whether large or small, from age-appropriate activities to revisiting some manipulation/sensitization/socialization concepts that have become ingrained over the years in dog breeding, sometimes adapting and making them our own.

I remember when Elena introduced me to Mufik mats, created as orthopedic rugs for children, which happened to be a wonderful discovery.

After trying them firsthand with my puppies in 2021 and sharing the results on social media, I received only positive feedback from all the breeders who later decided to try them (and not just for Ridgebacks!). These puzzle-shaped panels, which can be connected together to form a sort of carpet or corridor, or simply scattered around, with the correct timing during the puppies’ life, from the softest to the most elaborate, will enhance the puppies’ tactile sensitivity.

Later, in new environments, everything is made easier by the tactile memory developed in the earliest weeks of life. The puppies become much more confident and unfazed by new surfaces under their paws.

Every litter brings something new, different notes, exciting discoveries, and fresh ideas for future litters.

I always emphasize the great importance of protecting your puppy from the very beginning. Elena will explain in detail what we mean by protection and relationship later on.

I am convinced that building the relationship on mutual trust is by far the best approach, even before imposing the classic basic commands, which too often I see as the priority of adopting families.

The puppy must learn to get to know the new family, to trust them, and to explore a completely new world, with every right to do so in the best possible way, having fun and engaging in its natural and character traits. An extremely important point to remember is that this process doesn’t last just a few days but several weeks or even months!

Now shall I leave you to the article written by someone who, for over 20 years, has had a 360-degree view of what the new life of a puppy in its permanent family looks and feels like, hoping to provide you with an interesting point of reflection for the well-being of both dog and owner. Wishing you a happy life with your crested puppy.

ANOTHER VIEW OF HOW TO RAISE A PUPPY

Elena Dall’Ara

Finally, the puppy arrives. To prepare ourselves, we read a lot of information online about the most suitable food and necessary medical care. There is talk of creating a safe and comfortable environment, but above all, socialization is recommended to be done immediately because time is short. It is often emphasized that puppy socialization is essential because only in this way will it grow into a balanced and confident adult dog. In addition, early training can help establish a good relationship with the puppy and teach it the rules of behavior.

But is that really the case? Does training equate to a good relationship? What does socialization mean?

In light of this, I would like to elaborate on the following points: relationship, socialization, and training.

To better understand what a relationship is, I must make an introduction: creating a relationship between two different species is not so obvious. There must be knowledge of the other species and of its ‘customs and traditions’ in order to then be able to communicate in a way that the other can understand. This is not an easy task to do. One method that is always useful is to take time to observe the interactions between dogs you know. With time, you sharpen your gaze and see details that previously escaped you.

I had the luck to meet Michele Minunno, a dog trainer and researcher who has been observing and filming stray dogs in the territory for years. He collaborates with universities and is a lecturer. He holds numerous seminars in Italy and abroad on dog communication. With him, I had the opportunity to analyze hundreds of videos, and I saw him working in the field. Thanks to this meeting, my outlook and my way of approaching dogs have completely changed.

In free dog packs, the days are punctuated between sleeping, playing, exploring, and eating. Stray dogs sleep up to 20 hours a day, move within a circumscribed territory, and when they are hungry, they go in search of food. Within

the pack there is individual variability where each individual has the opportunity to grow and contribute to the balance of the family group for what it is. One fact that impressed me a lot is that within the pack there are dogs that like to be with the puppies. They are called ‘the nannies’.

Even in dog breeding—the good ones—it can be observed that in addition to the mother there may be other dogs taking care of the little ones (nannies). In these places, too, the days are punctuated between sleeping, playing, exploring, and eating. Perhaps the relationship is played out precisely in these aspects?

The puppy arrives. No matter how beautiful or ugly its place of origin was, it leaves behind something it knew to be literally thrown into a completely new situation. The acclimatization to the new family can last anywhere from a minimum of two weeks to several months. This transition phase is delicate one. Depending on the puppy’s personality, this phase can destabilize it to a greater or lesser extent. Therefore, let’s give the newcomer time to understand to whom it now belongs, what its new home is like, and what the neighborhood is. There are many things to process; socialization has already begun, so let’s relax!

Look again at how wild dogs spend their time. We know that they have a circumscribed area. They move from one resting place to another. They always walk along the same paths, so much so that they form alleys. Taking our cue from them, we can take small walks to a meadow, a hill, a clearing, or a small stream. We stop and sit and give the puppy a chance to explore while we are present. Sharing time and space is what creates belonging. Observe things together with your puppy. Be ready to take in all those little glances they give you. Their communication is made up of glances and changes of posture. We can try to use this type of communication to pass information.

Socialization to the environment initially occurs in a static manner. The puppy cannot yet walk, explore, and process everything at the same time, so give him time. The perception of life depends very much on your dog’s personality. In my more

than 20 years of experience as a dog trainer, I have seen too many young dogs overloaded with too much early stimulation. This can lead to hyperactive behaviors and diffculty managing emotions. The time required for socialization is not as short as previously thought. We now know that the first two years of life are important for socialization, as during this period the brain is particularly flexible and able to learn and adapt more easily to new experiences. However, even after the age of two, a dog can still learn; they are always learning!

SOCIALIZATION WITH OTHER DOGS

Continuing to draw inspiration from natural dog packs, we observe that puppies interact only within their own family group. As already mentioned, in these groups there are dogs that like to be with the youngest. Mind you, all dogs within the pack serve as educational figures, but the nannies specifically care for the puppies. The play of puppies generally serves as training for various predatory behaviors: pointing, ambushing, chasing, grabbing, killing, dismembering, dissecting, and consuming. In play, we can often observe that one individual chases another, grabbing, tackling, and then holding them by the neck. To manage these situations so they become positive life experiences, it is essential that the two dogs have a relationship with each other. And that is where we come in. To be able to guarantee serenity in future interactions with other dogs, we must take care to introduce our puppy to balanced dogs of all ages. Contrary to what is often written, these do not always have to be new dogs; rather, they should be dogs with whom our puppy can meet regularly and build a trusting relationship. Within this stable group, our little one has the opportunity to learn social rules and acquire skills to face future encounters with new dogs.

SOCIALIZATION WITH PEOPLE—A DIFFCULT CHAPTER.

It’s diffcult because, in our imagination, a peoplesocialized dog must always allow itself to be touched, to play when we want, and to be calm when we decide. We expect that we can take away whatever the dog is interacting with, and he should not react!

Unfortunately, this does not indicate a wellsocialized dog with people; rather, it suggests a dog that is simply conforming to a protocol that we impose.

To ensure a dog is well-socialized with people, we must prioritize providing our puppy with personal space and the ability to communicate its preferences. This means allowing the puppy to express what it likes and dislikes during

interactions. By respecting its boundaries and encouraging positive experiences, we help the puppy develop confidence and comfort around people. Remember: Through his sense of smell he gets the information he is interested in; touching is a need of ours but one that annoys many dogs. Socialization with people does not involve letting everyone pet it!.

We are for our puppy a mixture of parent and nanny; our task is to grasp the subtle communication that the puppy gives us and act accordingly. In encounters with other

people, sometimes it is enough to ask them to stay still, possibly crouch down, without too many words and gestures, and immediately the puppy will feel more comfortable. It can happen that even if we do everything right to make meeting other people pleasant, our puppy just doesn’t care about meeting strangers. This has to be accepted as we are dealing with an individual.

Therefore the already quoted sentence applies: “A dog that is socialized with people is a dog that knows how to be serenely in the presence of various types of people without showing concern or exaggerated exuberance.

To sum up, we can say that socialization with people is basically introducing the dog into the human world while respecting its personality and diversity.

TRAINING

Training is subject to precise scientific rules that aim to achieve desired behavior on demand. A trained dog, however, is not synonymous with a polite dog. I have seen many dogs that are well trained but socially ill-mannered or incapable of relationships. I am a dog trainer, and I love working with my dogs. I prepare them for various sports disciplines and then compete with them. Training is therefore an important element in my daily routine, but it is not what makes a dog balanced. The balance of a dog is definitely given by its genetics, personality, and individuality, but above all by a relationship that educates.

IN CONCLUSION

Thinking back to my first puppy, which I got 20 years ago as a newly qualified dog trainer, and the puppy I got a year ago, there are huge differences in daily management. Back then, I simply applied a protocol I had studied. Twenty years later, my concern has simply been getting to know my puppy in its individuality. Training doesn’t interest me in this phase. I spend a lot of time exploring the environment with him. Socialization takes place with me. I organize meetings with balanced dogs. Walks are always little adventures. I have a blanket and something to chew on with me, and it often happens that after exploring and eating, the puppy falls asleep next to me. In short, I reproduce what dogs do in the wild! Few words

and lots of observation. I want to understand the puppy’s personality by observing the way it interacts with the world around it. Relationship is communication, sharing, security, complicity, and also fun. In short, it is the backbone of everything. Information passes in a social way. It is not always easy because we belong to two different species, and therefore a minimum knowledge of the other species is necessary.

In my dog school, I have modified the puppy courses to make room for the growth of the relationship between the owner and his puppy. I have reduced the number of participants to ensure a calm and serene atmosphere. During the courses, the participants remain the same to create familiarity. Interactions between puppies are brief and with a focus on the individual. Small age-appropriate exercises are taught, but the target is to work on the intra- and interspecific communication aspect.

I am convinced, and experience confirms it, that through relationships, a bond and complicity are created so strong that they allow us to face all situations in life and work with confidence and determination. For me, it is a wonderful experience that I wish for you to live as well.

ELENA DALL’ARA

Elena Dall’Ara is the founder of the “Scuola cinofila 2 Mondi.” She is training specialist, fitness trainer for dogs, a water rescue trainer, and an expert in detection and behavioral issues.

She has three dogs by her side: Zippi, an Australian Cattledog, 12,5 years old; Freyja, a Belgian Tervueren, 5 years old; and Nura, a Labrador Retriever, 16 months old.

With Zippi and Freyja, she has won titles in sports water rescue and achieved significant milestones in obedience and detection. Nura is currently preparing for sports water rescue, detection, and dummy training.

Elena loves teaching and meeting people with their dogs. Her mission? To impart knowledge in both training techniques and human-dog relationships. She also accompanies other dog trainers to help them pass their exams in water rescue and detection. www.2mondi.ch

In my last litter, the Etherea litter, I found myself facing a larger number of puppies that I was accustomed to.

13 little crested ones in need of learning to interact with their future lives and their new families, but how to correctly follow 13 small souls thirsty for knowledge, attention, and experiences?

Well, I had to make a choice and prepare them psychologically and physically, leaving them partially behind in terms of education and good manners.

Thus, thanks to the help of important professional dog lovers and trainers by my side, I have developed 3 key points that I will surely use in my next litters too, because, believe me, these puppies are mighty!

I decided to develop their growth with these main features in mind:

• intellectual independence, or the ability to choose independently and think about how to deal with a given situation.

• develop proprioceptive skills, which means having full awareness of their body in space,

• mobility and flexibility development to decrease the chance of getting hurt.

For this litter, I had the opportunity to be supported by an excellent team of dog trainers from all over Italy.

FIRST MILESTONE: INDIFFERENCE TO THE BAIT

Thanks to my friend Francesca Genghini, an important dog trainer, dog sports judge, and mentor, we started at 3 weeks of life to test the indifference to the bait, which tests the predisposition and the modality to follow the effluvium of smell and “leave it,” preferring the collaboration with the human.

This is an important test for two reasons: to have an idea of the predisposition to olfactory work of puppies, even if they are so small.

important work to be carried out with the new owner in order to avoid unpleasant accidents.

Obviously, this is not a foolproof method, but it is useful to me to properly work on the puppies before they enter their families and suggest the correct work to the new owners in case there are qualities in which to invest time or not.

SECOND MILESTONE: FIT YOUR PUPPY

The second milestone of the growth program was undoubtedly the day dedicated to FitYourPuppy.

I had the opportunity and the privilege to have in my kennel the group of students FityourDog (of which I am part) with the certified teachers and dog trainers Marta Cianci and Naima De

Luca, who have studied and set a proprioceptive path for each puppy, working individually on motivation and proprioceptive tools suitable for puppies 50 days old.

The interesting thing was just the incredible ease with which each puppy has faced the proprioceptive exercises, small differences in height, instability exercises on inflatables, and balance exercises on a board. For each of the 13 puppies, a suitable path has been formulated. You can imagine that day they slept like logs!

THIRD MILESTONE: SWIMMING

POOL DAY AT THE DOG TIMEDOG TRAINING CENTER

The dog training center I usually visit has a beautiful multi-purpose pool. It is a swimming pool 40 meters long and 5 meters wide, where at one side there is the diving ramp and at the other side a gentle descent into the water for the first approaches.

When I asked if I could bring all 13 puppies to the pool, I was afraid of rejection, but instead the idea was warmly welcomed with great enthusiasm by all staff.

One at a time, we unloaded the puppies from the car, and while I was carrying the last puppy, I already saw that the first ones had literally jumped into the water and were swimming happily, retrieving their games from the water.

After a first exploration of the new place, thanks mainly to the skill of the dog water instructors, each puppy started swimming; many jumped off the side steps for nothing touched by their heroic feat despite being so inexperienced, playing and running everywhere.

Fortunately, their batteries were low, and it was time to take them home, where they snored happy and satisfied with their new adventure.

When they ask me what it means to breed, that’s exactly what I mean. It is not only to raise healthy and beautiful subjects but also to give each puppy the skills and positive experiences that will allow the new binomial outside my home to face life with a proper baggage of experiences and stimulations.

As I always say to new families, “They are not educated puppies, but they are definitely ready for anything!”

UNDERSTANDING THE ROLE OF THE ILIOPSOAS MUSCLE

Physiotherapy and the Rhodesian Ridgeback

Nita Webster Vet Physio Pgd IAAT

In this article, we are going to examine one of the most common injuries I see in dogs, particularly in very active breeds like our Rhodesian Ridgebacks. This is an injury to the iliopsoas, or hip flexors. In fact, in the book entitled “Canine Rehabilitation and Physical Therapy,” it is called “the most common hindlimb orthopaedic/ sports medicine condition afflicting performance and working dogs.” This muscle group is made up of the iliacus muscle, the psoas major and the psoas minor, and in both humans and dogs, is responsible for flexing and externally rotating the femur. As you look at your ridgeback from the side, it travels from approximately halfway down the spine, right underneath the lumbar section of the spine, through the pelvis, and towards the rear leg, then connects to the inner side of the femur, or first thigh. This is outlined in blue in the image below.

Why is the iliopsoas muscle so commonly injured? To answer, we need to understand the way that this muscle itself is constructed. To do the job for which it is designed, it must attach to multiple joints, including those in the lumbar spine, hip, femur, and pelvis. The more joints a muscle crosses, the more susceptibility it has to injury. The nature of athletic and powerful dogs like the Ridgeback is a huge factor in the overuse of this muscle. It is a key muscle in the flexion of the hindlimb. This is quite a task from full extension, and you can see in the picture below of a dog jumping how this muscle can become stretched very easily when a dog is in full sprint or jumping (particularly over obstacles like gates and other dogs, which we see very often in Ridgeback play and in hunting mode!). The photo

on the next page is of a Rhodesian Ridgeback in full flight. You can see the extent to which the iliopsoas, highlighted in blue, are needed to extend through the lower spine, pelvis, and on to the femur. Moving the hindlimb forward from this extreme position of full extension through flexion of the hip is no small feat. You can imagine that with these powerful hounds in full stretch, the opposing force on the muscle would be intense. This is often when injuries occur, especially when the blood flow to the area is restricted and the tissue is not as flexible and tensile.

Injury can occur when a dog is not properly warmed up before vigorous exercise, such as agility or coursing work. Short bursts of extreme speed, such as going into a chase after a period of relative inactivity, can very often cause issues in this area. It can also happen if a dog jumps out of a vehicle after a long journey, is taken from an environment where the dog has been inactive for some time, such as from a crate, and made to run without first warming up, or perhaps jumps over a gate or into a car. Another cause of injury (I see this often in homes with highly polished flat tile or laminate surfaces that have no grip) is when the dog slips and lands in a splay-legged fashion. Bounding up and down stairs, trauma from above (such as another dog jumping on the lower back), and roughhousing with other dogs, where the pelvis is twisted or the hindlimb is rotated or overstretched, are common causes of injury to this muscle. Sometimes iliopsoas strain is secondary to an issue with the back muscles and a lack of flexibility thereof. A dog must have a good degree of flexibility in the back muscles to run, twist, and jump at speed. Any rigidity in the

long muscles of the back will cause overwork to the iliopsoas as it overcompensates in order to move the hindlimb into position, so these issues must be addressed or re-injury will almost certainly occur. Dogs with inadequate angulation, or over-angulation, can be at high risk for injury, as can those who are overly short in body or excessively long. These issues can cause their own individual problems with this muscle due to the necessary degree of flexibility of the back, stifle, and hock, the ability for adequate suspension as a shock absorber, and the ability to balance the force distributed to the area. Inadequate insertion points could also be a contributing factor to injury. Another issue is dogs who are short in body and longer on the leg, because often they overreach in movement and have unbalanced placement of the foot as the hindlimb avoids contact with the forelimb. This can place unnecessary strain on the iliopsoas and hips as they rotate internally or externally to compensate. It is important for judges to take note of dogs that do this and reflect it in their decisions as the noteworthy fault that it is.

It is often the case that the issue of the iliopsoas strain goes undiagnosed for long periods of time. The reason for this is that it is notoriously subclinical in nature; often lameness is very slight or not noticeable to the untrained eye, and rarely will a dog suddenly become non-weight-bearing with this issue. It may present as a drop in the croup as the dog rounds the back slightly to shorten and protect the injured muscle. As the iliopsoas is responsible for the external rotation of the hindlimb, male dogs may be unwilling to lift the leg for urination. It may also mean that the tail can have a slightly abnormal carriage or be carried to one side. It is a notoriously

Llliopsoas palpation

difficult muscle to reach for palpation and to treat, but tenderness and spasm may be evident where the tendon joins the bone or at the junction of the tendon and muscle. In the case of an acute injury (within 24 hours), it’s not advised to stretch the muscle through hindlimb extension due to the possibility of causing microtears. Instead, therapy should focus on rest, gentle and controlled activity, muscle-relaxing pain relievers, initially cryotherapy (cooling), and then move on to massage, laser treatment, and passive range of motion exercises (the dog is lying on his side while the limb is gently flexed and extended to a pain-free limit) that are useful. As healing progresses, load-bearing exercises can be gradually introduced, as well as strengthening of the core through balance boards, lifting a fore and hind paw for the dog to balance on the opposite side, walking over cavaletti poles, hill walking (not trotting or bounding, but walking at a steady, controlled pace, particularly when coming downhill), and sit-to-beg exercises.

It’s important to note that in the majority of cases, the strain is not noticed until the muscle has become chronic. In these cases, anti-inflammatory drugs are to be avoided, and the inflammatory reaction of the body is to be encouraged in order to remodel the tissue that has become damaged. Heat, ultrasound, and lasers are hugely useful in these cases. To help control the pain in cases of chronic injury, I prefer to refer the client for acupuncture of the lower spine while these inflammatory responses are being encouraged by various modalities, whether manual or mechanical. I find that this limits pain without discouraging the natural healing process that is needed to remodel the damaged tissue, which has become tight and inflexible due to the scarring it has experienced.

In the show dog, damage to the iliopsoas can affect hindlimb extension and flexion. You may notice that a dog that previously had good reach and drive has become less able to reach through with the hindlimb. The injury can cause a drop in the croup and atrophy to the hindlimb area, which over time can be noticed in the lack of muscle tone around the first and second thighs and over the croup. In time, the dog leans on the forequarters, which can become unnaturally developed and begin to make the dog look heavy on the forehand, unbalanced, and weaker in the lower back

and hindquarters, lacking core strength. It is important to be aware of and note any changes in your dog, regularly have your dog assessed by a qualified vet, and make a referral to a canine physiotherapist before chronic issues occur. You may find it helpful to compare photos and videos of your dog over a period of time. With help from a physiotherapist, you can learn how to massage tissue, mobilize joints through passive and active range of motion exercises, and strengthen muscles to prevent injury. Of course, it is much better to have good construction in the first place than to try to help balance issues caused by incorrect construction. Many dogs have imbalances in muscle groups, but in dogs that do have good construction issues, they are less likely, and when they arise, it is much easier to address them. That is why a good understanding of construction is vital for breeders. There is no substitute for experience, education, and research, but physiotherapists, with their knowledge of musculature, can have a valuable role in helping to assess breeding stock and advise on areas that could be improved upon, which greatly helps in the selection of mating partners.

There are issues, such as the iliopsoas, that occur regardless of how carefully bred the animal may be, and so it is important to be aware of them and any changes that you notice in your dog, however subtle they may be at first. With careful management and rehabilitation, these issues can often be improved and even corrected.

by Edyta Ossowska (Sangoma RR)

SHOW

HOW TO AVOID MISTAKES.

Everyone who takes part in a dog show cares about winning. Of course, there are many other things that matter, such as time spent with friends, time with your dog, or watching other dogs in the ring, but every participant would like to win.

In this article, I will mention the most common mistakes—being aware of them will make it easier to avoid them. I divided these mistakes into the part concerning the dog and the handler, although all of them are only our mistakes.

THE DOG

Often, the reason for the lack of a place is the dog’s behavior. If the judge has difficulty judging its anatomy and movement because the dog is galloping or does not want to run, it is difficult to expect it to win, regardless of its quality. If it growls when judges try to touch it, it does not allow him to check the bite—no judge will give it the highest score and place, even if it is the most beautiful dog at the show.

Theoretically, the source of the problem is the dog, but the owner did not prepare it for what it will encounter in the ring. If the dog cannot emotionally cope with stimuli, whether it is noise, the touch of the judge, or the presence of other dogs, it must first be prepared for this. First, you need to find out which stimulus is the problem for the dog. If there are several of them, it is better to work with each stimulus separately. Take it to places where there are a lot of people—a market, a crowded avenue, or a similar place. Accustom the dog to noises separately; take it to places where there are similar sounds; a good place is a train station. There, it will hear noise, megaphones, suitcases on wheels... If other dogs are a problem, it is worth asking for the help of a professional trainer, who will choose techniques for a specific case.

FEAR PHASES

When preparing your dog for exhibitions, take into account the fear phases. Usually, the first one appears around 5–6 months. You will know this by the fact that suddenly the dog starts to fear things, which it knows well. One day, a garbage bag becomes an enemy. Or a chair in the kitchen, placed in a different place than usual. This phase can last a few days or a few weeks. During this time,

routine, a constant daily rhythm, and calm support are useful when the dog panics. Any pressure is not recommended, because then the dog can permanently remember the stimulus that scared it. You shouldn’t force the dog to confront the source of fear, showing that there is nothing to be afraid of. This is also not a good time for the first show. If the dog gets very scared of something during the fear phase, this fear can stay with him permanently.

STRESS

The first time is always associated with stress. Do you remember your first flight by plane? Small things like checking in baggage, security checking, and finding the right gate—the first time they are difficult and we get stressed, but with each subsequent time, they simply become stages of the journey. It is the same with a dog; the first trip to a show is like a trip to the moon. It doesn’t know what will happen to him there or what it should do. Therefore, practicing the ring ritual helps the dog in this situation. He finds familiar things and behaviors that he knows in a new environment. It helped him cope with the feeling of being lost. The earlier you start ring training, the more repetitions before the first show, the calmer the dog will be. Don’t expect to win. The first show is for it to know what a plane looks like, where to check in baggage, and what a flight looks like. If the handler is stressed, the dog will smell the adrenaline in his scent, and this will increase the dog’s stress. At the first show, the most important thing is the dog’s well-being and good experiences, because he will refer to them at the next shows. The dog will expect similar experiences. If it is not pleasant, the dog will expect unpleasant things.

HANDLER

The time you arrive at the show is an important element. If you plan to arrive shortly before entering the ring and there are traffic jams on the way, a problem finding a parking space, then all unplanned events cause increasing stress. And human stress is automatically also dog’s stress. Plan your trip so that you arrive at the show early enough and manage to do all the activities that you should do before entering the ring.

Can you arrive too early? With a dog that is not very confident and gets stressed at shows, it is better to

arrive early. A few words about dog stress physiology. When stress begins, a hormone called cortisol begins to be produced. Its maximum concentration in the blood occurs after about 20–30 minutes, then it begins to decline. The appearance of cortisol in the blood causes the secretion of other hormones and neurotransmitters associated with anxiety and panic. When it is very high, it blocks the appetite system, so the dog does not want to eat cookies at this time, and it is difficult to establish contact with the dog. When its level drops, the dog feels relief. With this kind of dog, you should arrive early enough for the cortisol to drop long before entering the ring.

If you have a dog that is hyperactive, curious about everything, wants to greet everyone, and has difficulties controlling emotions, you should arrive at the show early enough for him to get a little tired, but not too early, because by the time he enters the ring, he will be too tired for the presentation.

There is no one right answer to the question of how early you should arrive at the exhibition. It depends on your dog; check it out yourself.

PRESSURE AND ADRENALINE

If you arrive late, stress will definitely appear. However, there are people for whom the fact of presenting a dog at a ring is stressful enough, and they do not need additional factors to get nervous.

The adrenaline that flows in your veins and breathing will be perfectly felt by the dog’s nose. Stress causes us to behave differently than usual; movements are faster, more nervous, and more chaotic; we start to use pressure and corrections on the dog more easily. A dog that sees that you are behaving differently and that you smell different will either try to get out of this situation or It will be difficult to present him well; the dog will be more stressed or agitated, which will also make the presentation not easy. Regardless of the dog’s coping strategies, none of them will make the presentation better. So it is worth finding a way to deal with stress. You can use herbal resources, choosing a substance that has a good effect on you. You can try other methods, such as breathing through a straw, which regulates breathing and thus reduces stress. It is important that this method is effective.

Another thing that reduces stress is good preparation. Systematic ring training, which will make the dog feel more confident during the presentation. During training, you learn which elements of the presentation are better for you and which are worse. All this is part of the preparation before the exhibition. However, it is also important to prepare for the specific ring in which the presentation will take place. It is worth arriving earlier, leaving the dog in a cage or under the care of another person, and approaching the ring. Watch

how your judge judges. Where after entering the ring does he set the stake, what is the order of judging, whether he assesses the entire stake first or does an individual assessment? How does he assess the teeth—by himself or can you do it? This is especially important when you are first in your class. Knowing what the order of the assessment is, you will be less stressed.

PRESENTATION TIME

A lot of people stacked their dog in the ring the entire time they were in the ring. After a few minutes, the dog will have had enough, will start to get frustrated, and will stop focusing on the handler. Probably each of us has had such an experience in the ring when we stacked the dog and when the judge came closer, the dog sat down or moved its paws. You stacked him too early. A better solution is to do it 2-4 seconds before the judge looks at the dog. The dog should only stand perfectly when the judge is looking at it. How do you know when the judge is looking at it? You have to look at the judge. This applies to both statics and movement. If there are 10 dogs in the ring and yours is 7, then put it only when the judge is two dogs ahead of you. During the comparison in movement of the entire class, the judge also does not look at you all the time. When you are behind him, you have time to stimulate the dog or slow down if he is galloping, but if you step

into place when you appear in the judge’s field of vision, the dog should run perfectly—at his best pace.

LACK OF CLEAR COMMUNICATION WITH THE DOG.

I often see in the ring that a dog does not understand the behavior of a human and does not know what the handler expects from him. For example, the dog does not want to run or runs too slowly, so the handler tugs on the leash to increase the pace. When the dog runs too fast, the handler tugs on the leash to slow it down. A moment later, the same dog lowers its head and sniffs the grass, and the handler uses the same signal—a tug on the leash to raise its head. The same signal, in 3 different situations, means 3 different commands. How is the dog supposed to know when the tug means it is too fast and when it means it is too slow? For the dog, it will be a stimulus that increases stress and frustration and will affect its behavior.

RING LEASH

A ring leash is a tool used to control the dog. First of all, it should not interfere with its presentation, and winding it up should not take up valuable time. It should not be overused either. If you regularly train your dog for shows, it is worth doing it without a leash. If you control your dog and learn how to present it without a leash, then the leash becomes just an accessory in the ring, not a basic tool used for stacking or movement. Leash tension usually also builds tension in the dog. Exhibiting a dog on a loose leash makes the dog feel better, and so does the presentation, especially for dogs that easily get stressed in the ring.

The leash should also be comfortable, quick to use (roll up), and used in the length you need. If it is too long, rolling up the excess will take too much time, and the hanging leash may touch the dog’s ears during movement, which will cause it to start flapping its ears and disturb its balance.

CLOTHING

The clothing should not interfere with the presentation of the dog. If you dress in the color of the dog, the details of its structure will blend with your clothing. If you wear a skirt that is too short or too tight while running in the ring, you will not focus on the dog but on how uncomfortable you feel. Also, new shoes should not be tested at the show, where comfort and the background that your outfit creates for the dog are important. If you are going to wear a new outfit for the show, do a training session in this outfit beforehand and check if you feel comfortable in it.

ELENA MARINI

SUNNY OLDY

C.I.B. Multich. Multijch Escape to Heart by Luanda

This is the story of how two souls met, the story of how two little round eyes and a wagging tail could save a lost soul, how I found my way back, and from that moment on I know that I will always have Sunny by my side.

Yes, I know. You can think that is another story like millions of others, but this one is my own, and I’m happy to share it.

In 2011, my life changed radically. I was alone, dissatisfied with my life, and felt the need to react and welcome a dog into my life. The Rhodesian Ridgeback had always intrigued me for its natural pride as well as beauty and pose. So in 2012, after a long search, my gaze fell on a photo of a puppy available at the Luanda kennel in Slovakia.

I decided to write to Milada about the puppy and 15 days after delivery to visit the kennel. It was a cold winter, but what I found behind that door was warm and exciting.

I remember the Luanda girls running towards me and, slalom between the long legs, little Sunny, who was already stubborn, trying to get there first.

That was enough for me.

From that moment began our new life together: I, who was learning to know her, and she, who already knew me and knew how to train me to his will.

The first few years were not easy, I admit. Unfortunately, Sunny has suffered attacks from other dogs in sensitive periods of her youth that have marked her not little, and I relied on people not suited to her personality who have slowed and diverted our path. But thanks to my perseverance and the meeting with a trainer who finally knew how to read the true soul of Sunny, I could fully enjoy our long life together.

Sunny is a true real Ridgeback, strong, loyal, and endowed with that extraordinary intellectual independence, which I am sure will be difficult to find in other RRs.

It is thanks to her that I have met many friends in the world of Rhodesian Ridgeback; I traveled half of Europe; I’ve known this crazy dog show world; and she’s the matriarch of my Kahawia Desirre breeding farm.

It is in his honor the name of my farm because “kahawia” in Swahili

means Amber as the color of his eyes.

Today Sunny is a perfect house dog. I always try to cut out moments just for us; she likes the fireplace (who follows me on social knows what I’m talking about), and I have made her build her spot near the fireplace that she enjoys in the cold winter months, some olfactory research exercise to keep the mind young and its great predatory instinct, and a lot of cuddling.

At almost 12 years old, Sunny is still the leader of her pack. I love watching her interact with daughters Moka, Makika, and Rubi and the other members.

When the game gets too heavy, just one look to pacify the spirits. The puppies follow and respect her, and she responds with essential teachings.

Today her limbs are tired, her silhouette is heavy, and her face is whitewashed, but her spirit is as strong as then, above all if there is food.

Each of us has “that dog,” “the one in a million.” I never owned Sunny; we just chose; we consciously chose to share our life path together in a deep friendship that, I am sure, will continue even when our earthly lives can no longer coexist and we will remain beautiful memories.

SEE THROUGH CAMERA LENS.....

We are thrilled to introduce to you four brilliant photographers, they all have one thing in common....they see your dogs through their camera lens.

We have asked some of our favourite photographers some question with regards to their work, read their stories.

“ SAY CHEESE ”

NUELLE FLIPSE AN

INTERVIEW

Nuelle Flipse photographer, founder of the DAFS (Dogs At Full Speed) laboratories where she teaches action photography in a one-of-akind workshop, winner of several international photography awards, studio and natural light photographer, she has a passion for photographing dogs of all kinds with a loving special passion for sighthounds, which began with her muse Zoë the Whippet!

PLEASE TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF. HOW DID YOU COME ABOUT BEING A DOG PHOTOGRAPHER, AND HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN DOING IT?

I was born in 1971, and I live in the Netherlands. I started photography in 2010 when I got my first dog. Her name was Zoë, and she was my muse. She was always by my side. When she turned 1 year of age, I wanted to make some great action shots. Zoë

was a small black & white sighthound, and she runs incredibly fast. Right at that moment, I realized I needed more skills and a different camera to make crisp, sharp photos that stand out. I started to learn all about that specific photography. Nowadays, my photography is completely focused on dogs. I developed my photo skills also by taking plenty of time with the dogs who were in front of my camera to get to know their personalities and their individual characters. I explore the human aspects recognizable in each of them and what makes us feel so close to them. Trying to express the character like it’s almost as if you know what the dog is thinking about. I’m trying to make photos that are unique, funny, and irresistible. Because of my own dog, I love photographing sighthounds, but really, I do love all breeds in front of my camera!! It’s fantastic to have the opportunity as a dog photographer to meet all kinds of dogs (and of course their humans)

Flipse Photography

who come to me from all over Europe for a photoshoot!

I’m very intrigued by light. I love to bend the light to my liking, especially in my studio, just like a painter would do. To not only express the mood and feeling of the dog but also to put emotion in the picture as a whole. The way the light is falling on the dog makes a photo stand out for me. Every detail in the photo is important to make it complete and satisfying to look at. It’s not just a photo of a dog; it’s the feeling hidden within the photo.

In my photographs, I always love to tell a small story. The story lies hidden in the details. For example, the specific character of the dog. Mostly reflected by body language and through the glance of the eyes. As they say, the eyes are the mirror of the soul. That’s what I like to express. The details I see while observing are reflected in a photo.

My overall vision is to always stay close to yourself. I believe you make the best photos when you take photos not just with your camera but also with your whole heart.

HOW DID YOU FIRST ENTER THE PHOTOGRAPHY WORLD? DID YOU HAVE FORMAL TRAINING? HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN A PHOTOGRAPHER?

Before I got Zoë, I didn’t do much with photography, other than making snapshots of everything I liked to save as a memory. Like I do now with my iPhone hahahaha!

My photography started, as I mentioned before, with my Zoë. Later she became my muse, my model, and now she is a wellknown dog model! Her portrait is on the walls of many houses and offices all over Europe. With Zoë the Whippet is how and when my (sighthound) photography and love started;

When she was 1 year old, I took her to the racetrack. Which is a very friendly place in the Netherlands, and dogs can run just for fun. I wanted to see her run and take some pictures. But she was so fast that I only managed to get photos of the tip of her tail!! The best option for me, I taught, was to change to a different and better camera. Because, how

hard can it be? Well, 4!! camera’s later, and no sharp photo I had to admit: it is not the camera, it is me! I need to learn how to make a good photo! So the action photography was born!

Zoë was very beautiful. This made me want to make many more photos of her. She was all black with a white stripe from the tip of her nose up to the top of her head. But for a beginner in photography, this was very hard. I had to work with those opposites in color! Get the black and the white both at the same time, correct. And I didn’t manage to get a sharp and good photo of her. This is the moment I decided: I need to do some workshops to learn how to use my camera. I did. I learned the basics. I learned how to use my camera for action, for portraits, and for studio. I am a self-taught photographer and took all the time I needed to master them all. After I was happy with what came out of my camera, I started to enter photo competitions. It took me some time to get better before I started to win (international) photo awards.

WHAT OR WHO GOT YOU STARTED PHOTOGRAPHING DOGS?

So, my first dog got me started on photography, and from there I developed myself as an all-round photographer. And now, many years later, when people ask me, why do you have 3 specialties (action, natural light, portraits, and studio) in photography instead of just one? Well, the reason is: I like them all!

Zoë was my practice model. She helped me with photographing! With posing. With light, with settings, and with creating photos that would stand

out. And she loved it. When other people started to notice my photos, they started to ask if I would take a photo of their dog. So I got more and more sighthounds in front of my camera. And I loved it!! The elegance, the sweetness, the long noses and legs, the natural feeling for the more dramatic look, the sensitivity, the sweet soul, those eyes—all of it went straight to my heart. In my photography, I wanted to translate all of this into a photo!

After the sighthounds, other breeds also started to come to me for an amazing photoshoot. Also Rhodesian Ridgebacks! Totally different breed compared to sighthounds, but I love them! They are also very sensitive. I love this! And they are very strong and elegant at the same time!

WHAT TYPE OF CAMERAS DO YOU SHOOT WITH? WHICH IS YOUR FAVORITE LENS, AND WHY?

I have always worked with Canon. I have had many cameras, but the ones I work with now are my absolute favorites. I still love DLSR cameras. I shoot with the Canon 5D Mark 4, and for action I shoot with the Canon 1DX Mark 2. My favorite lenses to shoot with are the Sigma Art 1.8, the Canon 200mm 2.8L, and the Canon 70-200 2.8L.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PHOTOGRAPHY TO SOMEONE WHO HAS NEVER SEEN IT?

I would describe my photography style as story telling with soft and warm light use. Like in the old painting. Also, I would say my photography is versatile. Sometimes it is funny, catching, soft, dreamy, and sensitive. But always with the same warm use of lighting. No matter if I work in natural light or inside my studio. I have created my own style, which people recognize as Nuelle Flipse DogArt. I am extremely proud to have accomplished this over the years. I worked very hard to accomplish this.

When you look at my action photography, my photos are best described as Dogs at Full Speed. I try to capture the whole soul, body, and mind of the dog in the most explosive moment in action.

DO YOU CONSIDER IT A CHALLENGING JOB? HOW DO YOU GET THE ANIMALS TO STAY AND “POSE” FOR YOU?

Oh yes! It is a very challenging job! But when you like what you do, the challenges become motivations!

For me, it is very important that I see relaxed dogs who are also having a good time. Coming into a studio or with a natural light photo session is always making owners and dogs a bit nervous. It is normal. I try to create a safe and relaxed environment for everybody to feel at home. Some dogs need a little bit more time to relax than others. When the owners are calm and happy, the dog will feel relaxed. I will never push a dog to do something he or

she is not comfortable with. You can push them a little to let them know it is okay, to let them go sit and experience nothing bad will happen. But I will never push a dog to do anything that the dog doesn’t feel comfortable with. I look at the body language always. This also means that when a dog gets tired, the photo session stops. Even if I or the owner had many more plans. When the model gets tired, I stop. I don’t push, and I will not allow the owner to push because the dog is number one the moment he or she enters my studio.

When I work in the studio, I will always look at the comfort of the dog. They can sit on blankets, on the sofa, on dog beds, whatever they like best. In the studio, I work with flash lights. This means every time you hit the shutter button, a big flash will go off to put the right amount of light on the dog. As a human, you probably know, it is not comfortable to have a lot of flash light in your face all the time. I believe it’s the same for dogs. So working in the studio, I make sure I do not take many photos one after the other. The comfort of the dog is always the most important!

DESCRIBE A TYPICAL SESSION FOR US. WHAT KINDS OF THINGS ARE YOU THINKING ABOUT WHEN YOU’RE BEHIND THE CAMERA?

A typical session for me is basically always all in the preparation. Starting with the first contact with the owners. Making sure we are all on the same page. Managing each other’s expectations. When owners contact me for a photoshoot, they have made this choice based on

my style and quality of photography. I will always make sure this is exactly what they will get! But I need the best conditions to do this. The surroundings, the light, the weather, the surface the dog will be posing on, and of course, what kind of dog will be in front of my camera. I will make sure all these elements are under my control. Off course, I cannot control the dog completely. So I have to know everything about the dog so I can adjust my settings, my surroundings, and my preparation. And so far, this works best! For me. It is very important the dog is happy and comfortable. A happy dog is a happy photo! Then the character will be best shown in the photo. Sometimes I’m just amazed by the beauty of the dog. They have no idea what I’m doing. Hiding behind a camera, making weird noises! They are trying to understand what it is I want from them. And this special moment of working with the dog(s) is amazing. I can see they are trying to the best they can. It moves me... I love my job!!!

WHICH BREED, IN YOUR OPINION, IS MOST PHOTOGENIC?

For me, that is an easy answer because of my own dog: sighthounds. But this is just a personal opinion! All dogs are beautiful! I have an extra soft spot for the long noses. I can’t help it! But just as with humans, some are more drawn to the camera than others. Like myself as an example. I am very hard to photograph! It is just not easy to relax in front of the camera. But most important is the character of the dog. Once I meet the dog, feel his or her character, and when I am able to capture this, then that is the most photogenic moment. No matter if it is a puppy, an older dog, or a shy dog. To me, they are all pretty! So the breed isn’t always the first thing that makes my heart sing when I meet a dog. It is the character, the way a dog is looking at me or at her/his human, the emotion in the eyes, the interaction, the life the dog has lived, and you can see this in their eyes.

ARE THERE OTHER DOG PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT INSPIRE OR INFLUENCE YOU? IF NOT, WHO OR WHAT DOES?

I really liked the photography of Tim Flach. The details, the story, and the use of light are amazing to see. I studied his work. I am also a huge fan of Erwin Olaf. His photography is/was amazing. His use of light is the most beautiful I have ever seen. This created my fascination for the use of light. Which you will see reflected in my photos. The light is always bent and shaped until I get what I hoped for when I created the image in my mind. This also means when you work in the field, it takes a lot of planning because I can control flash lights indoors but not the natural light outdoors.

IS THERE ANY ONE THING YOU WISH YOU HAD KNOWN OR PIECE OF ADVICE YOU WOULD GIVE TO AN ASPIRING FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER?

Always stay close to your own heart with every photo you make. Only make photos you really like yourself and are proud of. It is important to stand out in this world full of very good photographers. The way to stand out is to stay close to your beliefs and emotions you like to capture and share with all the viewers out in the world. I often say, Make a photo with your heart.

DO YOU HAVE ANY PETS OF YOUR OWN? AND WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE ANIMAL?

I had my Zoë, and she was my first dog. Unfortunately, Zoë died on April 28 last year of old age and sickness. She was almost 14 years old when she took her last breath and died in my arms. That last moment she looked at me with her soulful eyes to tell me, It is alright, we had a great life together! And that was so true!! Knowing this gives me some comfort when I am tearing up every time I think about her. I am lucky to meet so many dogs. And I love to be close to them for the short moment during a shoot. I cherish every moment I have with them. When they come to me, let me pet them, let me hug them, and let me feel the love of having a dog again. I am happy and honored. I do not have another dog of my own yet. The pain of losing my soulmate Zoë is not healed yet. I hope someday it will...

CAN YOU PLEASE INTRODUCE YOUR COVER DOG FOR OUR READERS?

From time to time, and probably just one time in your life, you have a dog at your side you will never forget. Lozi is surely one of these wonderful dogs we all will never forget.

Her story began as her entire life did: she was born as the fourteenth in a litter of fourteen. We all weren’t sure if she was alive when taking her first breath in our garden, where her mom Ruby seemed to be really exhausted after a long birth starting 36 hours ago.

From the time she was born, she demonstrated that she is unique, stubborn, human-oriented, greedy, and willing to work.

With the age of 6 weeks, future puppy owners were asked to give their puppy choice to us, and it came out that nobody wanted that puppy that was energetic, nasty, cheeky, and that loved to attack noses in the middle of puppy owners’s faces. So it happened the way it had to be, and small Lozi returned to us after a week. We found experienced Ridgeback people with an older bitch that liked to take her immediately and who weren’t afraid of her devilish behavior.

It took another three weeks, and we picked up the same puppy again. They didn’t want her anymore. At that time, our best friends Eva-Lena and Christoph said, It is prediction! And so Christoph and I drove her to her new home. Eva-Lena knew that puppy from her second week, and she was sure that this little girl was the most promising and wonderful puppy from that litter. And she should be right.

Lozi grew up with Eva-Lena’s older dog, Shona, and Christoph’s wonderful Labrador, Kimba. After having owend three Ridgebacks before, the whole family stated, We never had such a sweet, good, easy, and well-behaving girl before. Finally, this little puppy came to the place she was dedicated to.

Since that day, we had so many wonderful and beautiful moments together that her numerous show titles do not really count to us. Lozi’s loves to be shown as her mother, Ndoki Dhoruba, did. She loves long walks with dogs she knows belong to her family. At the age of 9 years now, she is still in perfect condition, still chasing neighbors‘ cats, still hating houseflys, still steeling food, and still making us proud.

Thanks, Eva-Lena & Christoph, for this lifetime journey, and thanks, Lozi, for truly enriching all our lives‘.

Love you always, Your very emotional breeder

WHAT IS HIS BIGGEST ACHIEVEMENT?

Lozi has quite a number of Champion Titles starting in youth class, continuing in adult class and now even in veteran class. We have never traveled very far „just for a title“ where entry numbers are very low. So Lozi always has competed in big classes with many other great dogs.

Because Veteran Class is the most precious class, we are of course very proud about her becoming Veteran World Winner 2023 in Geneva/Switzerland.

My most beautiful memory though is the RR Club ELSA Clubshow 2023 where Lozi started in a veteran class of 7 which she won, she then competed for Best Bitch with all other Class winning Bitches and won again - and at the end of the day - our beautiful veteran girl won Best-of-Breed out of 100 entered Ridgebacks.

VWW RWW VBISS BISS CIB VCIB Multi Ch VCh JCh BH Glen Rhodes Bololo‘s Lozi

Next to numerous show titles our most difficult one was the BH Title which was an obedience working test called „Begleithundeprüfung“.

WHAT ARE YOUR FUTURE PLANS?

Our future plan: Enyoing every day to the fullest and hoping that we have many more days, months and years with Lozi.

FACTSHEET

GLEN RHODES BOLOLO’S LOZI

Sire: Kadamo It‘s Now or Never Dam: Ndoki Dhoruba

Breeder: Dr. Ellen Reisinger

Kizazi Ajabu RR

Italy

www.rhodesianridgebackajabu.eu

elisabettag2 bettagrande

Nzuri Na’weh

France www.nzurinaweh.com

Nzuri Na’weh

Sophie Bruneteau

Nomawethu

Germany

www.nomawethu.de

NomawethuRidgebacks

leaprusnat

Sangoma

Poland

sangoma.pl

Umlani

Switzerland

www.umlani.ch

Umlani Rhodesian Ridgeback

umlani_rhodesian_ridgeback

KAZEMBE

United

Kingdom

www.kazemberidgebacks.co.uk

Kazemberhodesianridgebacks

Kazemberidgebacks

Mohaget’s

Sweden

www.mohagets.se

Mohagets segerlund76

edyta.ossowska / Neomele

Croatia

www.neomele.com

maja.kljaja, Lela Treščec rhodesian_ridgebacks_neomele

Hooz

Ireland

www.hoozridgebacks.com

hoozridgebacks

hoozridgebacks

Kahawia DesiRRe

Italy

www.rhodesian-kahawia.it

Elena Marini (Kahawia Desirre kennel) elenarini

Shubani

Germany

www.shubani.de

Stefanie Bauschatz (Shubani Rhodesian Ridgeback) /

Villagedogs

Belgium

www.villagedogs.be

Villagedogs RRs villagedogs

Of Muna Ya Kusini

Switzerland

www.of-muna.ch

Jasmin Hoppe jasmine_munayakusini

Malozi

Finland

malozirr@gmail.com

malozirr /

Waenzi Wazuri

Germany

waenzi-wazuri.de

Cosima Von Delius

c.v.delius

Mbaya-Almasi Ridgebacks

Germany

www.mbaya-almasi-ridgeback.de

Mbaya-Almasi Ridgebacks tunapendanaadia

Shawdi

Sweden

www.shawdi.se

KennelShawdi

kennelshawdi

Of Course

Canada /.

ofcourserhodesianridgebacks ofcourseridgebacks

Khoisan

Slovenia

www.khoisan.si

kuralt.snezka

designbystarr

Colkeririn

United Kingdom

www.colkeririnrhodesianridgebacks.com

Kim Hodge (Colkeririn Ridgebacks) colkeririn.ridgebacks

When: 26 October 2024

Time: 14:00 CET

Duration: approx. 2 hours

To enrole, send € 12 to rrwebinar@gmail.com via Paypal.

I will explain the breed standard in much detail, and there will be a Q&A session at the end.