The Official Traveler
Winter Vol. 5
Winter Vol. 5
STAY JAPAN
Snowboarding in Japan
Under The Apron
Japanese Recipes
Florida-Girl Meets Snow
Dokusho No Mori in Komoro
Osechi-Ryori, Winter Warmers
CONTENTS Explore Featured Articles
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Snowboarding in Japan: Florida-Girl Meets Snow
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Mamebo: The most socially distanced café in Sendai
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Goshuin Memoirs: A Guide to Shrine & Temple Stamps
Culture What Makes Japan Unique
17 25 27 31 Food for the Soul New Discoveries
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Recipe: Osechi-ryori Recipe: Winter Warmers Winter Bops
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Under the Apron Ask the Expert The Basics of Japanese Tea Ceremony New Year’s Traditional Games
Editor’s Note Teresa Fong
group editor
‘Tis the season to cuddle up with your furry pets or if you’re like me, petless but looking, find comfort and warmth in your ugliest sweaters. SJ Media is bringing you the winter edition of fun, so sit back with our winter playlist (p. 39) that’ll make you hum along and sway the cold away. To elongate this dream state, we showered this edition with a few recipes that should get you through the cold nights, Datemaki (p.35) and Tonjiru (p. 37).
Instagram: imterryf
Lastly, time travel with a cafe in Sendai that’s operating years ahead of the rest of the world. It’s been nicknamed the most socially distanced cafe (p. 11). Don’t be shy to tag us your thoughts on Instagram @ stayjapan. While you’re there, be sure to check out our page, STAY JAPAN Media, for more content.
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Credits & Volunteers Chief Editor
Writer
GIOVANNI PEREZ
LILLIAN SEILER NATASHA TALIFERRO
Editor TERESA FONG LILLIAN SEILER CAROLL HIROSE
Illustrator @vege.pop
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CHARLEEN LAY ALEX LOKE SCARLETT HALFORD KENNETH VALENCICH
Graphic Designer ALEX LOKE AYUMI KONDO
EXPLORE
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11
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Snowboarding in Japan
Mamebo
Goshuin Memoirs
The most socially distanced café in Sendai
A Guide to Shrine & Temple Stamps
Florida-Girl Meets Snow
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Snowboarding in Japan Florida-Girl Meets Snow By Lillian Seiler Whenever I saw anything about snowboarding, I'd think to myself, “Wow, look at that sport I’m never going to do.” Not only did the sport look super difficult to me, but I was terrified of the idea of my legs strapped to a board and plummeting down a slippery, snowy slope. Imagine how funny it would be to tell my past self, “Actually, you’ll be snowboarding in Japan in a few years.” I swear, moving to Japan changes a person. The state of Florida in the USA is the land of eternal summer. My chances of snowboarding back home are nonexistent. Lucky for me, it actually snows in Japan during the winter. Being a snow enthusiast, I seize every opportunity to bask in the white, fluffy glory of frozen sky water. The start of my newfound snowy hobby began when I saw a “beginner-friendly” snowboarding trip to Nagano being promoted on social media. I thought, “Well, what the heck.”
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“Wow, look at that sport I’m never going to do.”
The adventure begins I joined a tour solo, not expecting to know anyone. However, upon boarding the tour bus, I was met with a few familiar faces who live in my area. It was pretty cool having the chance to become better acquainted with them!(Pro tip: if you just moved to a new country and want to make friends fast, join available tours or go on trips solo. Stepping out of your comfort zone and into unfamiliar, adventurous social situations is sure to create long-lasting friendships.) After a sleepless all-nighter bus ride, I was greeted with an overwhelming winter wonderland outside the window. Nagano is absolutely stunning, to say the least. My (very tired) new friends and I started suiting up to start the snowboarding day, but they noticed I wasn’t putting on any gear. The reason was simple: I was going to rent gear from a separate place, but for some reason couldn’t explain it at that moment. Maybe the sleep deprived bus ride was getting to me. This next part is pretty funny: Instead, I made a sarcastic joke saying, “Oh, I’m not snowboarding actually.” They actually thought I was being serious, so I ended up running with that joke. They were teasing me about how ridiculous it was for me to join a snowboarding trip and not snowboard. My trolling sense of humor loved the banter, and I even waved them off at the lift in my normal clothes and told them to enjoy themselves. I snuck off to a separate rental shop and geared up for the beginner lesson near the front of the slope. Later on, my friends came down the slope only to be greeted by me, geared up and on a snowboard! That moment of shock and confusion on their faces was absolutely priceless to me. I think the rental shop was trying to give me a compliment by sizing me in small pants, but my backside was not having it with those tight pants. Baggier is so much better for this kind of sport, which is something I learned on my later trips. After a few hours of bumbling, failing horribly at the dismount from the lift and sliding down 85% of the slope on my bottom, I hung my boots up for the day. How did people think this was fun? How could people get so good at this? You can’t even move your feet! I was thinking that this would be my first and last time, until... STAY JAPAN Winter 2020-2021
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I ended up making a good friend during that trip who was particularly skilled in the sport. He invited me to an independent snowboarding trip a few weeks later with his friends. It was on that trip that I was shown the basic tools I needed to be decent, which ultimately flipped my outlook on the sport. Bless this guy's heart first of all, because, in the beginning I was hopeless. But he was patient and taught me helpful tips and tricks to stay on my feet and stabilize myself down the slope.
One hour later, I was able to independently glide down the slope! That is, the super easy level one. I felt like a little baby as my friends were shredding down the top of the mountain while I wiggled down the family slope. At least I wasn’t sliding down the mountain on my back this time. Progress is progress! With my new skills, I unlocked a new sense of determination that carried over into my future adventures.
"My first go at snowboarding in Japan was frustrating, painful, and went way over the acceptable limit of wedgies per day quota".
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I hopped on the next opportunity to go snowboarding as soon as I could the next year. This time was a trip to Gifu. Honestly, this was one of my best experiences. I joined the tour alone, mentally preparing to take on the mountain by myself. Some friendly Japanese girls noticed me, though, and invited me to join them as they descended the mountain. They had a lot more experience than I did, so I ended up learning from them too! I mastered being able to turn my board around from front to back, and how to stabilize myself while having my body face sideways. I made the most progress here, and since Gifu’s snow was so fluffy and nice, all my wipe-outs didn’t hurt one bit. It was the first time I was able to ride the lift all the way to the highest point of the mountain and be able to descend safely and gracefully. I was so proud of myself!
My most recent trip was with my co-workers to northern Hyogo, and we had some newbies come along for the ride. Finally, I was a senpai! I was actually able to give some valuable advice and help a few people out. I also noticed how much more effortless it felt to move around on my snowboard. You don’t need to be an actual pro to feel like one, I think. I got so comfortable that I made up a move where I’m “dancing” down the slope like a ballerina. Lillian in Nagano could never! I was now able to see why people enjoyed this sport so much. It’s exhilarating to glide down a snowy mountain, relying mostly on your weight and balance. Being able to ride alongside experienced snowboarders down the top of the mountain while holding my own felt great.
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Unfortunately, due to the coronavirus outbreak, my snowboarding trips were canceled this year. But, my snowboarding in Japan adventures are not over yet. As soon as I can, I’ll be out on the slopes again, sharpening my skills, and meeting more wonderful people to crash into the snow with. Moving to Japan has opened me up to so many new hobbies and experiences that I never thought I would partake in.
"I guess, in a way, moving to a different country by yourself unlocks a lot of courage in your heart to try new things".
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鹿 Deer
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WELCOME TO
MAMEBO: THE MOST SOCIALLY DISTANCED CAFÉ IN SENDAI By Charleen Lay Ever since COVID 19 hit the world, it's been harder to enjoy some of life’s simpler pleasures. If leisurely enjoying coffee in a café is something that you miss, but you’re worried about COVID, rest assured at Mamebo. Between Tohoku University’s Katahira campus and the Hirose river, is Mamebo. This café has always been known for great in house roasted coffee. However, since COVID, the coffee is operating with new rules with the safety of the staff and customers in mind. Of course, hand sanitiser and mask wearing are standard, but the staff and customers do their utmost to keep in line with social distancing. There is considerable space between each table, and the staff step back away from you before speaking, to explain the menu and take your order. On top of that, customers sit by themselves and speaking is not allowed, except to order! This might sound strict, but I actually found the tranquil atmosphere of the almost silent café incredibly soothing. Even though I love catching up with friends in cafes, the sound of coffee beingMenu made and See > the quiet tinker of people lifting cups and forks was almost zen like. Without needing to talk to anyone, you can slowly savour each sip of coffee while contemplating the bamboo forest outside. If anything, the silence gives you the chance to really taste everything in front of you and focus all your sense on enjoying an expertly crafted cup of coffee.
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The list of coffee is almost overwhelming. A variety of inhouse blends and single origin coffees go over two pages, making it difficult to choose. I ended up picking a single origin that was bitter with a well-rounded deep chocolate flavour. To go with it, there is a limited sweets menu of cheesecake, chocolate cake, coffee jelly and an array of toasts. If you’re interested in the coffee jelly, get in quick as it’s the most popular menu item and is limited in number! On top of selecting your food and drinks, the staff also ask you what style of coffee ware you would prefer, Western or Japanese. I chose Japanese and was presented with the most beautiful textured set, made by a local potter. A visit to Mamebo in this current time of crisis is an opportunity to slow down. A chance to relax away from home and momentarily lose yourself in a cup of coffee. To find out more, head to: www.mamebou.jp/
1-1-12 Komegafukuro, Aoba-ku, Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture 980-0813
@cafemamebou
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MEMOIRS OF A GOSHUIN A Guide to Shrine & Temple Stamps
By Natasha Taliferro
Are you living or visiting Japan and want a way to memorialize your time minimalistically or without collecting a bunch of trinkets? A great way to participate in Japanese culture and have a great souvenir to take home is to collect goshuin.
Collecting goshuin has become a popular hobby among many travelers. You can find a wealth of information on the best pilgrimage routes to take, what kind of goshuin a location has, and even when seasonal or rare goshuin are being used.
WHAT IS A GOSHUIN?
御朱印
A goshuin ( ) is a red stamp found at shrines and temples in Japan. They are collected using goshuin-cho ( ), a stamp or seal book that can be bought at the shrines and temples, or even at craft stores in Japan. These red stamps serve as proof that one has visited the shrine or temple and worshipped there. Originally, goshuin were obtained during long pilgrimages to shrines, temples and other holy sites; however, goshuin are now collected within the younger Japanese society because of their beautiful designs.
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御朱印帳
In today’s goshuin trends, the most intricately designed goshuin attract the most attention.
COLLECTING GOSHUIN IN THE NEW AGE If you can’t physically go to shrines and temples, another way to participate in collecting goshuin is to buy them from online auctions, or buy them directly from the shrines or temples themselves! While many prefer to get goshuin from places that they’ve actually visited, buying goshuin online is a great way to support both small and large shrines and temples in Japan when you can’t physically be there.
HOW TO GET A GOSHUIN If you want to buy a goshuin, you must first have a goshuin-cho (a stampbook). Goshuin should not be used with any other book or piece of paper. If you do not have a goshuin-cho or you forgot yours, you can get the goshuin stamped onto a piece of paper provided at the shrine or temple. It can later be pasted into your goshuin-cho using your standard craft glue (a glue stick is better than liquid glue), or you can frame it! The price of a goshuin can vary depending on its intricacy and how famous the shrine or temple is, but a typical simple goshuin can cost between 300 yen to 500 yen. The cost of a goshuin-cho can also vary depending on its design, size and where it's bought, but the average cost is about 1,500 yen. At shrines and temples, the red stamps and the stamp books are sold at the reception area marked with signs such as “ ” (Goshuin-jo), “ ” ” (Juyo-jo). Typically, hours are from 9:00 am to 5:00 (Shuin-jo) and “ pm, but you should check the business hours for each shrine or temple before going.
授与所
御朱印所
朱印所
The goshuin offered online are often limited edition or seasonal stamps; however, they often cost more than what they would if bought in person (e.g., 1,000 yen more). Additionally, this option requires some Japanese or the ability to translate the web pages like Google Translate and a Japanese address (e.g., your hotel or AirBnB depending on your length of stay). Once bought through credit card, payment at a convenience store, or through pay, “daibiki”), it can on-arrival ( take between two to three days for the purchase to arrive at the address you provided.
代引き
ONLINE: YAHOO AUCTIONS
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Travel tip! Although it’s okay to use larger bills when paying for your Goshuin at shrines and temples, it is actually respectful and good etiquette to pay with exact change.
photo credit:
dannahbanana_5
WHERE DO I START? Unsure where to go in Japan for your first goshuin and goshuin-cho? Just stop by the nearest shrine or temple! Most shrines and temples sell goshuin and goshuin-cho, so don’t be afraid to ask. There are also guide books you can buy online or in Japanese bookstores that introduce regional shrines and temples and what goshuin they have. Although it may seem intimidating at first to walk into a shrine or temple and ask for your first Goshuin, you’ll be collecting stamps in no time!
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CULTURE
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Under the Apron
Ask the Expert
The Basics of New Year’s Japanese Tea Traditional Ceremony Games STAY JAPAN Winter 2020-2021
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Under the Apron
Translated by Giovanni Perez
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Dokusho No Mori
in Komoro City, Nagano
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1. Why did you open “Dokusho No Mori” Coffee Shop? I used to visit a cozy cafe while living in Kyoto over 40 years ago. The cafe’s motto was to have a “good time in a good place.” I loved the idea of a coffee shop but I wasn’t just ready to have one of my own. Fast Forward to ten years and during the middle of me deciding my next career path I was reminded of the lovely cafe I frequently visited. It was at that time I decided to start my own coffee shop.
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I used my personal experiences and thought the concept of the coffee shop should be a place where people from all walks of life could gather and be inspired. A place where you can have your creativity run free without borders. Another important aspect about a coffee shop, at least for me was having a serene location. Ever since I was a boy I was always interested in the plateau of Mimakigahara in Komoro City, Nagano Prefecture. The plateau always attracted me with it’s beauty. Although I have only known about it, I never once
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visited until I decided to open my own coffee shop there. I never doubted about living in the rural side of Japan with hardly any people or attractions around but I was unsure of what to expect. Nearly 30 years have passed and although some people were skeptical we have made a marvelous place for people to come and let their dreams run as far as they let them. We have hosted artists, back-packers, families, and many more people from around the world. I feel that it was our destiny to start our coffee shop in Mimakigahara.
2. What is the best Part about owning a Coffee Shop? - My workplace and my living space have become one, making for a much more fun independent life. - I have become more diverse in my creativity. - I have come to meet many visitors who have become dear friends. I have also started my own guesthouse, which opened the doors to learning about others peoples live’s and cultures.
3. Are there any funny stories to share ? There have been so many that there isn’t enough space to write all of them but I will discuss the time I published a picture book “Let’s look at the quiet forest” commemorating the opening of our “Dokusho No Mori” coffee shop. It was a graduation project I did with one of my cousins. One day, about three years after the store opened, I received a phone call asking me if I would be interested in composing a choral piece based on the poems in this picture book from Prof. Shozo Koyama, Professor Emeritus of National College of Music.
Eventually, the composition was finished and the day came for the first performance by the choir. It was held at a hall in Mitaka City. The performance was given by graduates of Musashino Music University, conducted by Professor Shozo Koyama. We were invited to go on stage for the first performance. A couple of years later, a reading group in Saitama Prefecture asked us about creating a performance piece on the very same book. This was also unexpected. They came all the way to our house later and presented their performance in our field.I was told later that they counted it as one of their most important performances, and they continue to perform it to this day. I honestly didn’t believe this simple book that I created with my cousin for a college project would get this much attention. It went from a book, to a musical piece, and then later on to a performance. What was once a two-dimensional picture book has been given a new life with the addition of voice and acting. It showed me that no matter what you do, if you just express how you feel, regardless if it’s a masterpiece or not, it’s a seed that can sprout into something much more beautiful.
4. What did you do before Dokusho No Mori? I used to work at a disability center that was just getting ready to open its doors to its new patient. I actually injured my hand the day of the opening up so I had a pretty noticeable bandage wrapped around my hand. There was one particular patient who had a much more severe physical impairment than mine who kept asking me if I was okay. The patient suffered from excessive saliva which they couldn’t control on their own. Even though the person’s saliva was coming out profusely, the patient’s only concern was if my hand was okay. This opened my eyes and for the longest time I did not know what to call this emotion. Working at the disability center helped me become more open with myself and others. I called this emotion, “ningen maru dashi” which is exponsing of oneself and not really caring about how you look to others. My experience of working this job paved the future of “Dokusho No Mori” coffee shop today. I try to be myself and also help anyone who walks into the coffee shop regardless of who they are.
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5. Why did you name the coffee shop “Dokusho No Mori”? There are a few ways to answer this question. To put it simply, it started with my love of reading and me wanting to build a quiet and secluded place. I originally presumed that all coffee shops should have a certain amount of books inside them for people to expand their knowledge and creativity. There was also no such word as “book cafe” during my time so it was something new for everyone. In hindsight, it should have been called “Words of the forest” but three years ago we actually started to plant trees and change the level of forestation in the community, so in a sense “Dokusho No Mori” or Book Cafe in the Woods in English, seems just about right.
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6. What makes Dokusho No Mori Special ? What separates us from other coffee shops is our identity. Even though our main priority is to provide a space for visitors to read, over the years since we have started, our meaning of Coffee shop has changed drastically. At Dokusho No Mori we have weekly and monthly events from performances, live dances, artwork from various artist around Japan and foriegn countries, and different types of livable structures ( huts, mangolian canopy, etc.) in our enormous “Art-field” towards the side of coffee shop. So I would say that the biggest difference of our shop is our identity, in other words our ability to change what we do year after year. What we were doing last year might not be the same of what we are doing next year.
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7. Please describe your coffee shop in three phrases! 1) “Kissa Kyo” It means to drink some tea and relax. 2) “Souzou” It means to create something from the heart and be excited while doing it. We have been doing that here for almost 30 years. 3) “Utsukushia No Tankyu” It means The quest for beauty, My quest in life is to make my life more and more beautiful each year. Especially in our Art field that we have behind our Coffee Shop. Adding beautiful new pieces every year for friends and visitors to enjoy together.
8. What do you like about Komoro City ? I like the scenic beauty of Komoro City. Komoro consists of the large Asama foothill side across the Chikuma River and the tableland-like Mimakigahara in the southwest. The Asama side faces south and has a large sunny view. It is also beautiful to see how the buildings and other structures are illuminated by the sunlight and glow white at the base of the large Asama mountain. On the opposite side the horizon cuts off in all directions, and allows you to see the peaks of Asama foothills and Northern Alps. This area itself is known to have the longest daylight in Japan so you have a chance to look at the sunset for more than your average time. One more thing. This is to promote the city of Komoro. There are two excellent literature-
related public exhibitions in Komoro. One is the “Komoro Fujimura Prize for Literature” and the other is the “National Haiku Contest for Kyoshi Komoro”. The former is based on the fact that during the Meiji era (18681912), Shimazaki Touson was assigned to Komoro as a teacher at the Komoro Gijuku private school and lived there for six years. During his time in Komoro, he reached a major turning point as a poet and writer and produced a series of outstanding works. The latter is due to the fact that the haiku poet Takahama Kyoshi lived in Komoro for a while during and after the Greater East Asia War, and during that time, he wrote excellent haiku and taught haiku poetry workshops. In the small city of Komoro, it is wonderful that public exhibitions have been held for nearly 30 years. However, the push for Japan’s
“natural energy” or “clean energy”, are being built here and there, destroying the beautiful scenery and environment in harmony with nature. This has become a major social problem in this area, especially in Komoro City. There is a major problem in the agriculture and forestry industry itself, where farmland and forests have been left untouched and unused for many years. In principle, this problem would not exist if farmland and forests were used. In order to prevent the proliferation of solar power plants, we need to come up with practical ideas and practices to revitalize the agriculture and forestry industries. We are trying not to think of it as someone else’s problem, but as our own, even if it is just a small series of ideas and practices.
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9. What else is there to do in “Dokusho No Mori?” •
Stay in one of our home-made huts. • Farming Experience • Art • Dancing • Performances • Read • Anything you put your mind to. We do a variety of things inside and outside the coffee shop. I’m actually a farmer so I tend our rice fields or help out my wife in her garden called “Megumi Garden” from time to time. We also have our “Ibarumi Elementary School Site” and in the woods that we have to keep maintained from time to
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time. There was a time a couple of years back that we weren’t allowed to house guests, but I spent some time creating various huts for guests to be able to stay in them.
10. Do you have any final comments about your coffee shop ? I have been running a guest house behind our coffee shop in our “Art Field Reading Forest” for the past six or seven years. It is great to be able to share various stories with guests from Japan and abroad over dinner, and even sometimes I am strongly impressed and inspired by them. Please come and spend some time with us. It is always a pleasure for us to hear the unique stories of
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each of you during our meals. Lastly, I would like to introduce one of our regular events in recent years, the “International Bon Dance Festa & Imaichi (abbreviated as Bon Fest). I’m not going to go into how it all started, but it’s an event where everyone dances around while musicians play original Bon dance songs live. It’s an all day event with dancing, food, and even a flea market called “Imaichi” In the afternoon. Please come out and enjoy the Bon Festival every year on the 13th of August. Ah yes, I forgot to mention that our coffee is the best around this region. If you think I’m lying, why don’t you come and try for yourself, my treat !
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Ask The Expert
by Lillian Seiler
How common are kotatsu and are they as comfortable as they look? Kotatsu are definitely common here! All the depictions of kotatsu in anime and pop culture are fortunately accurate. They’re dangerously comfortable, and you most likely will fall asleep under them easily as it swallows you in toasty, fluffy warmness.
Since you’re from a warmer climate, was it an adjustment getting used to winter in Japan? Definitely. I personally love cold weather, but I wasn’t ready for the fact there are a lot of places here without central heating. Also, for the first time in my life, I had to figure out how to defrost my car windows as I scramble to make it to work in the morning. I’m able to withstand the cold relatively easily now, but I’m still struggling with the fact that Japan doesn’t participate in daylight savings time. Having the sun completely set around 5pm in the winter is something I’ll never get used to, I think. However, the snow and winter views here are magnificent.
What seasonal foods are available during the winter? During winter, it’s hot pot season! Nabe, sukiyaki, and shabushabu are frequently eaten in Japan to help people warm up against cold temperatures. Oden is another popular Japanese winter food-- A lot of people seem to love it. My personal favorite is sukiyaki. Cafes also become quite a hotspot as they sport delicious seasonal drinks like gingerbread, cinnamon, and eggnog lattes.
What is there to do in Japan during the winter? Winter illuminations, relaxing in onsen, and basking in the snow are a few of my favorite things. You can also check out Christmas markets and events in bigger cities. I love to snowboard, ice skate, and go strawberry picking as well. The days may be colder and darker, but there’s a lot of fun things to do to brighten your surroundings.
What winter holidays/ festivals are celebrated in Japan? Christmas, New Years, and Valentines Day are all celebrated in Japan. It seems New Years and Valentines Day are the bigger ones here, and Christmas is seen as a couples holiday where you eat KFC chicken and expensive cake. As for festivals, there are plenty of snow festivals around the northern parts of Japan. A couple I recommend so far are the Sapporo Snow Festival and the Otaru Lantern Festival in Hokkaido!
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About Lilly Hey, I’m Lillian. I’ve been living in Japan for over 4 years, and I’m excited to share my knowledge and experiences with those who are curious about life and travel in Japan. I’m here to give you the inside scoop and answer your questions in as much detail as possible. See you when you come STAY JAPAN!
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THE BASICS OF JAPANESE TEA CEREMONY By Charleen Lay
JAPANESE TEA CEREMONY BASICS As an outsider looking in, Japanese tea ceremony appears both fascinating and utterly bewildering. There are so many steps to making and drinking a simple bowl of tea that it can be overwhelming. In this article, let’s take a look at some of the basics of tea ceremony and try to demystify this Japanese art form.
SCHOOLS OF TEA CEREMONY
Japanese tea ceremony as we know it now was popularised by Sen no Rikyu in the 1500s. He altered the culture of Chinese tea to Japanese tastes and aesthetics. Currently there are three main schools, or styles of tea ceremony known as the san-senke, which are descended from Sen no Rikyu. These are Urasenke, Omotesenke and Mushanokojisenke. Personally, I practice Omotesenke, which is the second largest tea ceremony style. You’ll find that most English language articles tend to focus on Urasenke as it is the most popular of the schools with the most readily available resources. There are also countless numbers of other more niche schools all over the world. Each school favours different utensils, sweets and decorations. The way tea is made and even the number of steps taken on the tatami may differ greatly from school to school. That said, although the form may be different the spirit of tea appreciation remains the same regardless of school!
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THIN TEA VS THICK TEA Unless you’ve been to a Japanese tea ceremony before, you might not know that there’s actually two types of matcha. I’m not talking about the tea leaves, but rather the consistency of the tea and the way that the ceremony is performed. Usui-cha, or thin tea is what typically comes to mind when matcha is mentioned. Slightly foamy, light and brightly coloured, this is the tea that will usually be served to you when you order a matcha at any regular Japanese tearoom. On the other hand, koi-cha or thick tea, as the name suggests is a lot more viscous, creamy and deep in colour. One bowl of thick tea is typically shared between all the guests of the tea ceremony, as they pass the bowl to the next guest after having drunk their portion. In a formal tea ceremony event usually both thick tea and thin tea will be served along with a different sweet for each tea.
GUEST ETIQUETTE Before being able to perform your own tea ceremony it is customary to simply be a guest. This gives beginners time to become familiar with the tearoom itself and the proper steps to drinking tea, as well as a chance to carefully observe the actions of the person conducting the ceremony. If you’re invited to a tea ceremony, there are a few basics to remember. The first seated guest (shokyaku) is usually considered the guest of honour. They will be served tea first and are usually the most knowledgeable about tea ceremony. The shokyaku also has a role to play, as they can close the tea ceremony and are entitled to ask about the tea tools, calligraphy, flowers and sweets. If you’re ever at a loss at what to do, observe the shokyaku and do your best to imitate them when you’re served your tea!
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For the most formal of events it’s customary to wear a kimono or a suit to tea ceremony. Otherwise, for a regular event or tea ceremony practice it is important to wear clothes that you can comfortably sit in seiza in and aren’t revealing when you bow down. For indoor ceremonies, try to bring a clean pair of white socks with you, to change into before you enter the tearoom. As for the actual ceremony itself, each school has different norms, but usually guests are expected to finish eating the sweets first before tea is served. Be careful not to down all your tea at once! It’s best to appreciate it in a few sips. With so many styles of tea ceremony, changing depending on the style, tearoom, seasons and more it simply is impossible to list down every single tea ceremony rule. Although at first the rules of tea ceremony may seem unnecessarily complicated, each step has been designed to heighten your enjoyment of the tea and ceremony itself. For a few brief moments you’ll be able to forget the world outside and just focus on the tea in front of you as if in fact it contains the whole world.
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狐 Fox
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New Year’s Traditional Games
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Written by Caroll Hirose | Illustrations by @vege.pop
n a country with modern see their beloved family. technology and smartphones As a family reunion where you would everywhere, the customs in each have 2 or more families together, occasion are a must, with no kids running around are also a lovely exception for New Year. New Year picture to enjoy, and as so of course the in Japan is a time of the year to spend traditional games with them. with family, as most would travel hours to be in their hometown for the holidays Here are some popular games to enjoy than just be on their own. No matter if and if you have some time, have fun it is just to relax, eat the Osechi ryori on looking for them. New Year's eve and the Soba(buckwheat noodles) on New Year's day, or just to
Hagoita Hagoita or Hagoita paddles, originally from China. Hagoita paddles are used to hit shuttlecock(Hanetsuki game) , a racket game like badminton but without the net. This game was played specially in the New Year's as an action to drive away the evil spirits. Nowadays the game is commonly introduced in the Kindergartens for the kids to enjoy. Also you can find the Hagoita decorated with cloth or painted with Sumo wrestlers, Kabuki, etc. and used a decorative lucky charm for the New Year's.
A: pg.1, 12, 33 ,39
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STAY JAPAN Winter 2020-2021
For the tourists are also wonderful souvenirs.
Karuta Karuta word originally from portugues means card. Introduced by Portuguese traders during the mid-16th century. Is a card game where the cards are divided in two types, the cards that have a part of a poem or a context and the cards with the related pictures or the continuous part of the poem or context. To play the game one player reads the card and the others look for related cards. The player with the most cards wins. A very traditional and popular Karuta game is "Hyakunin Isshu" the name means 100 poets, 100 poem each, written in old style Japanese in a Tanka way (5 lines, 31 syllables), these 100 poems are a part of the Japanese
educational system and well known and taught from elementary school through high school. Of course you will find some cute Karuta games as well with popular anime or manga characters and easy Japanese, next time you go to a bookstore look for the karuta section.
Fukuwarai Fukuwarai (lucky laugh) is a game similar to Pin the tail on donkey, where instead of playing on the wall, it is done on the table, and instead of a donkey is a blank face where you locate parts of the facial parts blindfolded. The face commonly used for Fukuwarai is called Okame, a woman with puffy cheeks, in the old days considered
the epitome of beauty but comical nowadays. Fukuwarai game is considered a lucky game because it is associated with the proverb "Warau kado niwa Fuku Kitaru'' means Luck comes to a house with lots of laughter, and so is a lucky game to play in the NewYear's with family.
Game Time! We hid the okame and hyottoko separately throughout the magazine. There’s a total of 2 each. Can you find them? (Answer is on page 31.)
Okame
Hyottoko
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鶴 Crane
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FOOD SOUL FOR THE
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Recipe
Recipe
Winter Bops
Osechi-ryori
Winter Warmers
Scarlett's TOP 15
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Cooking with Alex
Osechi-ryori Datemaki: The sun egg DID YOU KNOW?
In the past, Japanese people traditionally rolled important documents or paintings. Due to its resemblance to the scrolled papers, the dish is also said to represent a wish for the development of culture and learning.
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Unlike western countries, the Japanese usually prepare for the new year by spending time with family and preparing certain foods into what is called a jubako (special lacquered square boxes), with each dish containing a meaning to bless the new year ahead. This tradition is called “Osechi-Ryori” and it goes back centuries, to the Heian period (794-1185). There’s a huge variety of dishes, each one a symbolic wish for things like long life, wealth, fertility, and happiness. One of my favourite things to eat is datemaki, a delightful sweet and savoury egg dish mixed with hanpen (fish cake). Its ribbed outer surface mimicking the shining sun, is a wish for sunny days ahead. With all my heart, I hope that this dish will bring you happiness and joy for the new year ahead.
STAY JAPAN Winter 2020-2021
Cooking with Alex
LET'S GET HANDSY
Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 25 minutes Rest time: 3hours Serves: 12 pieces Ingredients 110g Hanpen (fish cake) 4 large eggs 2 Tbsp mirin 1 Tbsp sake 1 Tbsp sugar 1.5 tsp honey ½ tsp soy sauce
1. Beat your eggs and cut the hanpen into small cubes. 2. Add all the seasonings, beaten eggs and hanpen into a mixer and blend until smooth (about 1.5 minutes). 3. Strain the mixture 2-3 times until there are no more lumps. This is a VERY important step because you do not want the datemaki to turn out lumpy. 4. Pour the mixture into the baking dish lined with parchment paper and bake at 200C for 20 minutes or until the top is slightly brown. 5. Remove the baking dish from the oven and let omelette deflate and cool to handle, just for 1-2 minutes. DO NOT LEAVE IT more than that. Transfer it from the baking dish to a working surface by lifting the parchment paper. 6. Then place the bamboo mat over the omelette, the flat bamboo side facing up. 7. Flip it over with the bamboo mat on the surface. While it is still hot, score the datemaki (3 mm) deep every ½ inch (a knife should be parallel to the bamboo sticks directions). This incision will help the omelette roll up without cracking. 8. Roll it up into a tight cylinder, wrap it up with cling wrap and rubber bands. Let it cool completely for 2-3 hours. 9. Carefully remove the datemaki from the bamboo mat. Cut into 12 equal slices, about ¾ inch wide pieces. Serve at room temperature. STAY JAPAN Winter 2020-2021
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Cooking with Alex
Winter Warmers Tonjiru
DID YOU KNOW?
The name tonjiru is said to be more common in Eastern Japan while butajiru is more widely used in Western Japan and Hokkaidō. Niigata's version contained sweet potatoes and was served to skiers in the ski resorts up until about 1960, earning the nickname sukii-jiru (skiing-soup )
スキー汁
Winter in Japan can vary due to the shape of the archipelago; from the relatively warm 20C weathers in Okinawa to the frosty -20C blizzards in Hokkaido. And nothing screams comfort than a warm hearty bowl of soup. If you've had miso soup before, tonjiru is basically the boujee-ier, more elevated meal with local root ingredients like burdock, lotus root, daikon and carrots to boost your immunity during winter and heavier ingredients such as pork and potatoes (or mochi- this really depends on where you live in Japan) to give you energy to get you through the cold weather. Having lived in Tohoku region, tonjiru has always been a staple communal winter meal. Whilst learning how to master this dish from one of the obaa-chan's at the community center, she always said that a meal is always tastier when shared with other people, so always find someone to share this dish with. Basically, she means if you want this dish, don't be selfish and invite your friends over instead of being a lonely soul. And that I did. My friends always found this dish satisfying especially with a hot bowl of rice and would always proceed to huddling under the kotatsu together, enjoying each other's company. Never underestimate the wise words of an obaa-chan because not only did I get to master her recipe, I also built everlasting friendships- over a bowl of soup.
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Cooking with Alex
LET'S GET HANDSY
Prep time: 15 minutes Cook time: 25 minutes Serves: 4-6 people Ingredients 300g thinly sliced pork 1/2 daikon 1 onion 2 carrots, thinly sliced 1/2 block konnyaku 1/2 block soft tofu, cut to cubes 150g mushrooms (your choice- I used enoki and shiitake) 1 spring onion, diagonally sliced 100g burdock/gobo 2 potatoes (taro or sweet potato are great alternatives) 2-6 kirimochi (optional) For the stock 6 tbsp miso (varies depending on type so feel free to add more or less) 1 tsp soy sauce and sugar 6 cups of dashi broth Sesame oil
1. Cut all the ingredients to thinly sliced pieces. This is to quicken the process 2. Boil the sliced konnyaku in a separate pot for about 3 minutes. Tip out water and set aside. This is to remove the smell. 3. In another pot, fry the onion, carrots, daikon and meat first to bring out the flavour. Sprinkle some sesame oil when about done with frying. 4. Add the shiitake and fry lightly. 5. Add the potatoes and burdock root and coat it with oil. 6. Add the spring onion and other mushroom in the pot and fill the pot up with the dashi stock, enough to cover the ingredients. 7. Cover to boil for about 10-15 minutes or until roots are soft (you can poke a daikon to check if it's ready) 8. Mix in the miso to desired taste. 9. Add soy sauce and sugar (You can skip this if you feel the soup is tasty enough). 10. If you are adding kirimochi, add it in straight after you mix in your miso. 11. Add the tofu in leave to simmer for a few minutes to warm up the tofu. 12. Serve with spring onion garnishing and a dash of sesame oil.
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Winter Bops Recommended by Scarlett Halford
1. Black Dog Arlo Parks
2. White Winter Hymnal Fleet Foxes
3. Nothing Burns Like the Cold ft. Vince Staples
9. Never Get To Heaven Flyte
10. You Make Loving Fun Fleetwood Mac
11. no body, no crime ft. HAIM Taylor Swift
Snoh Aalegra
12. People, I 've been sad 4. In The Cold, Cold Night
Christine and the Queens
The White Stripes
13. We Got Love ft. Ms. Lauryn Hill 5. Cold Hands
Teyana Taylor
Arctic Lake
14. Motion Sickness 6. Nights
Phoebe Bridgers
Frank Ocean
15. Easy ft. Mark Ronson 7. When in Summer, I forget
Troye Sivan, Kacey Musgraves
About the Winter Yaeji
8. Home Caribou Scan code for Spotify playlist
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STAY JAPAN Winter 2020-2021
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