EasyJet Traveller Magazine, October 2019 by Stephanie Ross

SHINE IN YOUR OWN LIGHT

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Contents

ķH 6WRULHV 41-76 Real people, amazing places, travel to write home about 41

INE IS

F E T O TA K

T H I S M AG

HOME!

O C TO B E R DON ’ T FOLLOW THE HE RD

ķH (GLW 78-99 Where to eat, sleep and shop when you’re in the know

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10-38 Eat vegan junk food in Amsterdam, be ﬁrst at Europe’s newest venues, scare yourself silly in Düsseldorf and 12 other reasons to ﬂy off right now

101-108 How to work, play and travel like a boss

13 COVER IMAGE SUN LEE

A SLICE OF THE ACTION Would you eat a pizza made by robots? In Paris, you can… OKTOBERBEST DRESSED Bavaria’s traditional dirndl is having a fashion moment HOW NOT TO BE A TOURIST You don’t have to follow the crowd – follow our guide to being a better, bolder more tuned-in traveller CARING COMMUNITY How one Czech village rose from near extinction to all-inclusivity

TRENDSPOTTER Now you don’t even need a coast to surf CITIZEN’S ADVICE Berlin is where the magic happens, says this arty local LENS FLAIR Canals are ﬁlling up everyone’s Insta feeds ON THE MAP We’ve found the best places to see the stars Q&A Hot Chip’s Joe Goddard on staying together HOT RIGHT NOW Coal Drops Yard is London’s must-go neighbourhood TAKE MY ADVICE Fall in love with solo travel

ķH .QRZOHGJH 110-134 The streetwise guide to the best of our destinations

ķH /RZGRZQ 137-160 All the news and stories from behind the scenes at easyJet

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Editor’s letter

TH E N E X T B I G TREND IN TO U R I S M I S …

LO S T I N T R A N S L AT I O N B Y A DA M J AC OT D E B O I N O D / I L LU S T R AT I O N R YA N C H A P M A N / P H OTO S U N L E E

…untourism. No, that doesn’t mean sitting at home in your pyjamas, travelling no further than to the fridge and back. Untourism isn’t about avoiding experiences, it’s the skill of hunting down authentic ones while on holiday. Where a tourist might traipse to the typical sights, pop into a few overpriced restaurants and leave a place with a backpack full of fridge magnets, an untourist digs into a destination, experiencing it like a local and leaving with something priceless: a fresh perspective on the world. ķLV LVVXH ZHɌUH FRXQWLQJ GRZQ WKH JROGHQ rules of untourism, taking our cues from some of Europe’s best alternative travel itineraries. You can

TRASH TALK Ditch the map, plus other pointers to more meaningful travel, from p50

rent a helpful Finn for the day, hang with architects LQ 3RUWR RU VDFN Rļ VHOńHV RQ D SURIHVVLRQDO photography tour of Iceland, all from page 50. And yes, you can still buy a fridge magnet at the end of it. Jonny Ensall, Editor

Lost in translation EUROPE’S STRANGEST SAYINGS THE PHRASE “Mucho ruido y pocas nueces.” WHERE’S IT FROM? Spain. IT MEANS? “A lot of noise and no walnuts.”

WHAT’S THAT NOW? Like saying someone’s all mouth and no trousers, this nutty phrase is aimed at people who aren’t prepared to back up their words with actions.

FOR EXAMPLE? “Valeria, you’ve been promising to write that novel for years. A lot of noise and no walnuts, you are.” SAY IT LIKE THIS “Moo cho roo ido e pocas nooethes.”

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CEO’s letter

I C O N S N O U N P ROJ E C T / P H OTO © U N I C E F/ U N 0 1 3 9 3 7 5 / Z A I D I

W E LC O M E O N B OAR D PROVIDING YOU WITH a seamless experience throughout ALL SMILES your Mariya, 5, from journey is Islamabad, shows an inked finger really important to us and this that confirms starts the moment you’re planning she’s had a polio your next flight. That’s why we vaccine. See p138 for our story on continue to invest in new UNICEF’s work technology to make things easier for you before and during your trip. I’m particularly proud of UNICEF. On board, we’ll be our easyJet mobile app. collecting donations for This recently came out nine well-known cancer the winner in the NEED TO KNOW charities working ‘Battle of the Airline ve rs ha easyJet passenge illion locally in countries Apps’ at the World m 30 er ov now helped ccinated across the network. Aviation Festival children to be va ank you! against polio. Th On Thursday 24 and has some t it in our Read more abou October, we’re also brilliant features. – ion ct Lowdown se 8. 13 ge pa running a special You might have seen to rn tu campaign for UNICEF to our clever cabin bag support World Polio Day. sizer to help you in your The work UNICEF does towards travel preparations. We also eradicating polio is something our have a ‘Look & Book’ function fundraising has had a huge impact which means you can search for on over the years and you can read flights simply based on inspiring more about this campaign on page photographs you’ve seen on 138 of this magazine. Thank you for Instagram. Just last month, we your continued generosity in announced a first among airlines supporting all of these fantastic – a new voice search feature called initiatives again this year. ‘Speak Now’. With this you can As always, if you have any quickly and easily search for flights feedback on how we are doing or just by talking to your mobile. suggestions on how we can Of course, you can still use the app improve, please send them to me at to manage bookings, track your johan@easyjet.com. I’d love to hear flight and download boarding from you. passes – all in a user-friendly way. Wherever you’re flying with Elsewhere at easyJet, this easyJet this month, I hope you have month sees us continuing with our a great flight. support for important charitable causes following a successful Johan Lundgren, CEO easyJet summer campaign fundraising for

THE NUMBERS Here’s what our August looked like

58,526 ﬂights

12,838 golf clubs

3,487,258 bags

174 canoes

56 hang-gliders

9,002 bikes

You can check in and download your boarding pass on your mobile using our app. Access live updates about your ﬂight using our mobile app or at easyJet.com/ﬂight number eg, easyJet.com/1234

Contributors

TRAVELLER

WH O I N TH E WO R LD? MEET THE TALENTED TRAVELLERS BEHIND THIS MONTH’S ISSUE

Editor JONNY ENSALL Deputy Editor EUAN FERGUSON Art Director PETER ALLISON Associate Editor JESSICA PRUPAS Sub-Editor LIZ GRANIRER Shopping Editor FLO WALES BONNER Photo Director TRACEY GRIFFIN Deputy Picture Editor KATIE BYRNE Contributing Assistant Picture Editor GEMMA ROBERTS Advertising Director PHIL CASTLE phil.castle@ink-global.com tel +44 (0)20 76250922 European Sales Team JAMIE BARNISH, TARA BRADY, NISHAN GUMANI, CHARLIE HOLDER, PERRY SOPHOCLEOUS Creative Solutions Director SIMON KURS Creative Director (Commercial) MAT WIGGINS Creative Solutions team OWEN BENNETT, JACK CARTER, JOE HOLYOAKE, FRIYAN MEHTA Production Manager MARTIN DUNPHY Print, Paper & Distribution PETE MURPHY Reprographics MATTHEW LUTKIN

L AU R A S T E V E N S

S I O B HAN G R O G AN

PARIS, P41

STARGAZING, P22

The robots are taking over, but when the future is this tasty, who cares? “I visited a Paris pizza laboratory with a robot chef at the helm,” says this photographer for Le Figaro, The Times and The Guardian. “Turns out you don’t need real hands to make a ﬁne pizza – and I know, because I tried a lot of it.”

easyJet doesn’t offer ﬂights into space – not yet, anyway – but thanks to this starry-eyed Sunday Times scribe, we can ﬁnd you a heavenly view of the night sky. “We’re spoiled in Europe,” she says of her interstellar discoveries. From Northumberland to Tenerife, she found the best places to look up.

For all email enquiries firstname.surname@ink-global.com For recruitment enquiries beinkredible@ink-global.com easyJet Brand Manager JEREMY FLETCHER Book your flights at easyJet.com easyJet TRAVELLER is published on behalf of easyJet by Ink, Blackburn House, Blackburn Road, London NW6 1RZ ink-global.com; tel +44 (0)20 7625 0700 Read it online at traveller.easyjet.com/emagazine CEOs MICHAEL KEATING and SIMON LESLIE Chief Operating and Financial Officer JIM CAMPBELL Editorial Director KERSTIN ZUMSTEIN Creative Director JAMIE TRENDALL Chief Commercial Officer STEVE ROWBOTHAM Head of Finance PHIL MCILWAINE Business Development JONNY CLARK

DAV I D I M M S

SHIRA RUBIN

NERATOV, P67

MUNICH, P47

This photographer came back humbled after visiting a village in the Czech Republic that’s earned international acclaim for its progressive approach to people with disabilities. “Shooting such a sensitive subject is rewarding,” he says. “There’s a real community there – it’s an excellent advert for humanity.”

“Dirndls aren’t just Oktoberfest costumes,” says this freelance writer, who reported on Munich’s top designers reworking the traditional rustic dress. “Dirndls are a critical part of Germany’s history – and this shift to couture reﬂects Munich’s evolution from tiny town to metropolis.” Frock on.

© Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in easyJet Traveller are not necessarily those of easyJet or Ink. Neither Ink nor easyJet accept any legal liability nor responsibility for 3rd party content, advertising or websites included within this magazine and does not warrant or guarantee the products, services or information found in such content. Anyone using the information provided does so at their own risk and agrees to indemnify Ink and easyJet from any and all liability, loss, injury, damages, costs and expenses (including legal fees and expenses) arising from such use. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are at the owner’s risk. Any mention of easyJet or use of the easyJet logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company, or its products or services by easyJet Airline Company.

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THE 15 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW RIGHT NOW

Austria’s putting on a wood show ver seen such a wooden performance? Inspired by a famous 1970 drawing by artist Max Peintner, curator Klaus Littmann has installed 299 real trees in the Wörthersee football stadium in the southern Austrian city of Klagenfurt. For Forest is a statement about climate change – imagine if trees were so endangered they became exhibits? – and it’s free to view, for both the ruminating public and the wildlife that will certainly ﬂy in to check it out. Catch Austria’s largest public artwork before it’s uprooted and safely returned to its native habitat. For Forest: The Unending Attraction of Nature, by Klaus Littmann, is at Wörthersee Stadium in Klagenfurt until 27 October. forforest.net

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Olbia’s drawn a line in the sand Authorities in the Sardinian commune of Olbia have been cracking down on a pretty niche crime – beach theft. Visitors are so smitten by the area’s ﬁne sand that they’ve been smuggling many tons of it home in plastic containers, putting the region’s economic and environmental future in jeopardy. Olbia airport staff now routinely search baggage for the grainy contraband, forcing delinquent beachcombers to shell out up to €3,000 in ﬁnes. So, don’t even think about it – they’ll catch you for shore.

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A NEW RAFT OF URBAN SURFING CLUBS IS HELPING BODACIOUS EUROPEANS HANG TEN WITHOUT HEADING FOR THE COAST reaking news. A new wave of inland surﬁng clubs is opening across the continent with the (like, totally) awesome difference that they’re all in urban areas, so you can recreate your favourite scenes from Point Break without getting sand all up in your business. Britain’s ﬁrst, The Wave (above and below), in Bristol, opens this autumn and employs fancy-sounding ‘wavegarden’ technology to create a radical

tubular experience for surfers of all abilities. Its artificial lake generates up to 1,000 waves per hour, which can vary between a noob-friendly 0.5m to a fierce 2m in height. They’re rolling out across the country too, with their first London location coming in 2022. Over in Milan, WakeParadise is a giant lake that’s available for private hire by you and the crew. As well as surfing, you can do wakeboarding – the one where a boat drags you along – here. They have ramps and everything. Epic. Surfpoel, coming to the Hague, is a little bit different. Last year the founders’ campaign to build an indoor surfing lake hit its €100,000 crowdfunding target and Dutch dudes are already waxing lyrical about the prospect of 24/7 surfing in a balmy heated pool. Surfing in a controlled setting, handy for the city, with all the gear provided? We’re so on board.

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“Magic is raising spirits in Berlin” ARTIST AND RITUALIST VIVIANA DRUGA BRINGS A TOUCH OF THE OCCULT TO BERLIN

I N T E R V I E W J E S S I C A P R U PA S / P H O T O A N T O N Y S O J K A

I grew up in Transylvania. After I ﬁnished university, I moved to Berlin because it had an open market for art. The whole city feels like an open space – you can perform anywhere. I do performance art and practise psychomagic, a type of ritual therapy. I perform psychomagic surgery on people at my house by reading their tarot cards. During the session, I remove any spiritual blockages. It’s really about helping people hear themselves, making them realise that they’re their own shaman. Magic is also about being connected to your earthly environment. That’s why I go to swim in Krumme Lanke – a

4 SEAT OF POWER When she isn’t dabbling in the dark arts, Druga performs with local artists’ group Dead Chickens

lake in the middle of the city – every week. I also take my bicycle to Tempelhof Feld, a former airport that’s now a big park with a community garden. The Romanian equivalent of Halloween is Day of the Dead, which is all about connecting with the beyond. In Berlin, though, Halloween is all about partying. MONOM is the best place to go

out – it’s a special place for experimental music in Funkhaus. Berlin´s intense recent history was erased but its demons still pertain. Within the ruins of that history there is still a lot to be exorcised and redeﬁned. Magic is a good tool to uplift the spirits, cleanse the space and invest it with new meaning. There’s a freedom in Berlin you can’t ﬁnd anywhere else. vivianadruga.com

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Canals really float our boats

Bruges. Fly to Brussels

OUR INSTA FEEDS ARE DELUGED WITH SHOTS OF WATERWAYS @barbaraklam Fly to Amsterdam

enice may soak up the glory, but well-travelled ’grammers know there’s plenty of aquatic photo ops outside Italy’s watery city. They’ve inspired us to explore Europe’s lesser-known channels – and who knew Brummies were hiding all that liquid gold?

@picture_photography_456 Fly to Copenhagen

@ricksteveseurope

@globeview

@mijkevantilburg

Annecy. Fly to Geneva

Fly to Hamburg

Utrecht. Fly to Amsterdam

@danmatthews_uk

@sarabeltramini

@_aaperspective_

Fly to Birmingham

Fly to Venice

Fly to London

WO R D S J E S S I C A PR U PA S

GOT A FLAIR FOR SOMETHING? Share your pics with us on Twitter and Instagram (@easyJet). Next time: doggos on tour.

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Tourists are in trouble SEE WHERE THESE ANGRY INCIDENTS LAND ON OUR SLIDING SCALE OF RESIDENT RAGE

Mild tutting

GET H HOOKED ON GUILT-FREE VEGAN SASHIMI IN THE CITY’S NEW RESTAURANT CHAIN – VEGAN JUNK FOOD RESTA How do d you like your sushi? We’ll h have it vegan, thanks. With vegan hot dogs, meatless burgers ﬁsh-free calamari. and ﬁs

in Oost, VFJB Downtown and Dappermarkt. Expect vegan cheese that passes for Cheddar and crunchy, fried faux-shrimp.

What? You heard he us. New restaurant chain Vegan Junk Food (the name gives it i away) is ﬁlling Amsterdam plant-based takes on all your with p favourite comfort foods. favou

It’s a vegan miracle. Or just good old-fashioned science. The I-can’t-believe-it’snot-sashimi ‘No Tuna & Zalmon’ is made with seaweed glucose and the meat substitutes are similarly high tech. The future is now and it comes with a side of loaded fries.

Pfft, I know how this goes. It looks great, but tastes grim? Nah, m mate. People are queueing round the block for these crueltyclassics – which is why free cl Vegan Junk Food has opened three new locations just this year

I’ve come over all eco-conscious... Who doesn’t love saving the planet one aioli ‘n’ mustardslathered burger at a time? veganjunkfoodbar.com

ROCKY RELATIONS Conservationists in Tenerife are begging tourists to forswear the Instagram trend of stone stacking, as it disturbs wildlife, causes beach erosion and makes you look a bit of a pseud.

IN HOT WATER Authorities in Venice just fined two backpackers €950 after they were caught making coffee on a camping stove at the Rialto Bridge. Couple of mugs. Apoplectic fury

W O R D S E M M A C O O K E , A N D Y H I L L / I L LU S T R AT I O N S C AT R I N A B U R R E L L

Nothing’s fishy about the sushi in Amsterdam

A PEEL TO REASON Scots near Ben Nevis are asking climbers not to discard banana peel, as it presents an ecological and safety hazard. Usually so chilled out, the locals are refusing to let this one slide.

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The art hub Five Parisian galleries – Jocelyn Wolff, Imane Farès, Sator, Air de Paris and In Situ Fabienne Leclerc – are opening up spaces in the new Komunuma quarter in Romainville, just east of the French capital.

at their new ﬂagship space with an all-female chef lineup of Club Mexicana, Yum Bun, INK, Square Root and Rice Guys. kerbfood.com

year-round cultural destination and not just a winter-sports base. To that end, it’s opened its doors to a cuttingedge concert hall – the ﬁrst purposebuilt venue of its kind in the Alps. Sounds great. andermattmusic.com

The museum

@komunuma

The food market London’s insatiable appetite for street-food markets shows no signs of abating any time soon. Enter Seven Dials Market (below), courtesy of street-food supremos Kerb, who will kick off proceedings

The bridge A natty new bridge spanning the harbour in Copenhagen just opened for pedestrians and cyclists (above). Designed by architects Wilkinson Eyre, the Lille Langebro will help 10,500 Danes cross in style every day.

The concert hall Cute Swiss skiing village Andermatt harbours ambitions to become a

To mark this year’s centenary of the Bauhaus movement, a glossy new museum space (below) is opening in Dessau, Germany, that’ll house a 49,000-strong collection of pieces and artefacts related to the ground-breaking design school. bauhaus-dessau.de

WO R DS A N DY H I L L / P H OTOS G E T T Y I M AG E S , © R A S M U S H J O R T S H ØJ_ R E A L DA N I A BY & BYG

THIS AUTUMN A STACK OF NEW VENUES AND HAPPENINGS ARE OPENING ACROSS EUROPE. HERE’S OUR PICK OF THE FRESHEST

B O O K N OW AT O U R H OT E L S & R E S O RTS I N G R E EC E ATHENS | CRETE | KAMENA VOURLA | KOS | RHODES

The festive one Forget Beyoncé. Only the very biggest (and brightest) stars will be headlining The People’s Star Party at Kielder Campsite, Northumberland, on 18 and 19 October. In Europe’s largest area of protected night sky, it’s hosted by astronomers and includes astro-photography tips, talks and a bottle-rocket competition. Fly to Newcastle

Everyone’s seeing stars WITH THE SUN SETTING EARLIER, THERE’S MORE NIGHT TO ENJOY. TURN YOUR EYES TO THE SKY WITH THESE DAZZLING EVENTS

The ffamily-friendly one With n nights drawing in, October is idea al for younger stargazers who can’t stay up late in summer. Take the family to the Algarve’s hilltop p astronomy holiday centre COAA,, which has powerful telesco opes, a scientiﬁc library and on-site e astro pros, and is also close to unsspoiled beaches, a water park a and pretty ﬁshing villages to keep e everyone happy. Fly to Faro

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The VIP one Get closer to a galaxy far, far away by spending the night at the Pic du Midi Observatory, high in the Pyrenees. Once daytime tourists depart, lucky overnight visitors are treated to dinner and cocktails, a private visit to Europe’s highest museum and spectacular stargazing with astronomers, before waking to sunrise over the mountains and breakfast. The perfect starry start to the day. Fly to Toulouse

The historic one

W O R D S S I O B H A N G R O G A N / I L LU S T R AT I O N S M A R C O S FA R I N A

Be inspired by Galileo in Tuscany, where the 17th-century astronomer was the ﬁrst to turn his telescope to the sky. Visit his birthplace in Pisa, stargaze at the Arcetri Astrophysical

Observatory near Florence and view Galileo’s own telescopes at Florence’s Museo Galileo, which launches a new Leonardo da Vinci exhibition on 10 October. Fly to Pisa

The boozy one Raise a glass to the distinctive hunter’s moon in the Canary Island La Palma, the world’s ﬁrst designated Starlight Reserve. Rising on 13 October, this full moon traditionally starts the game season. Private groups can learn more with Ad Astra’s winetasting at the Teneguía cellar, where an astronomer will reveal how the moon affects Palmerian wines and lead a moon observation through a telescope. Tip: if you can see more than one, you’ve probably drunk enough. Fly to La Palma

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ike a monkey with a miniature cymbal…” In 2006, British discopop band Hot Chip released Over and Over, the first single from their second album. They caught the zeitgeist and rode it all the way to success: the song was a perfect fusion of dancefloor grooves and indie emotion, and was NME’s single of the year. It stomped and boogied and was catchy as a cold. Since then, the band’s two songwriters, Joe Goddard and Alexis Taylor, plus three more instrumentalists, have turned Hot Chip into festival-slaying, venue-packing, world-beating purveyors of leftfield dance music. This summer saw them drop seventh album A Bath Full of Ecstasy, which pulses with a very human electronica. It’s warm and compulsive, with depths fed by the classic house sound of Chicago, and a soulful surprise at every turn. Joe tells us what keeps them switched on after so many years.

“Glasgow is a brilliant place to play” A HUGE WORLD TOUR, ALL-PERVASIVE RADIO PLAY – HOT CHIP ARE EVERYWHERE RIGHT NOW. SYNTH MAN JOE GODDARD TELLS EUAN FERGUSON WHY HE STILL LOVES BEING ON THE ROAD

Your new single, Hungry Child, seems to be everywhere. Has it crossed a commercial line? “Maybe. It got good play in the UK on Radio 1, so it’s great it made it into that world. When we wrote it we were just thinking about those Chicago deep house records that often have a dark, obsessive love story in the lyrics. And it helps that Phillipe Zdar was involved. He knew so much about making house music sound proper and powerful.” It has the emotion and warmth of acid house. What is it about that era that you keep coming back to it? You weren’t old enough to have been a part of it… “No, I wasn’t raving then… I would have been 10!” So what got you hooked? “The period I associate most with that feeling is when I went to >

LOOKING CHIPPER Al Doyle, Joe Goddard, Owen Clarke, Alexis Taylor and Felix Martin

university in 1998. It was an important time in dance music, because garage was amazing, plus there was the ﬁrst Basement Jaxx record, Daft Punk and lots of accessible house music. That was the gateway drug that got me into this kind of music.” Do you ﬁnd yourself looking back more as you get older? “A bit… I look for reissues: funk, soul, African music. I love discovering 70s and 80s stuff I didn’t know about, but I love modern UK hip hop, Afrobeat, weird electronic records, Eurorack modular experimental stuff. It’s easy to get cynical as you get older. I have moments, but it’s good to resist it. Have that John Peel mentality – keep your mind open, keep searching.” Where do you see yourselves on the zeitgeist wave then? Can a band have such a long career and still be cutting edge? “We’re not particularly zeitgeisty. We get a certain amount of respect and there’s still

HOT CHIP UNPACKED ATARI 800 Conﬁrming their status as tech nerds, band member Felix Martin is a keen gamer: this machine is “the most beautiful computer I’ve ever seen”, he said.

CDS Lead singer Alexis Taylor confessed to nostalgia for the once-popular musical medium, saying he listens to them on a Discman.

YELLOW The band are known for their cartoonishly colourful on-stage outﬁts – apparently Alexis’s favourite colour is yellow. OBERHEIM OB-XA Joe is well into vintage synthesizers and has a hoard of at least 15, including this classic from 1980.

excitement when we play festivals, but you have to accept that it’s rare for a band to stay fashionable for their whole career. I’m happy trying to make music I think is decent and to keep entertaining people. I’d love it if we were suddenly considered the coolest band on the planet, but it’s not what you should aim for.” You and Alexis have been together since 1998. So many songwriting partnerships fall apart. How have you kept it going? “We spend enough time apart – we don’t see each other all the time. And we do other things outside of Hot Chip, so it’s not the only outlet for our creativity. But we still get on, we still really like each other. I’m really proud of it.” You’re together now, on tour. Is there anywhere you see on the schedule and think, YES! “Glasgow. It’s genuinely a brilliant place to play, particularly on a weekend. You know the energy and atmosphere is going to be fantastic. They haven’t forgotten how to have a good night out.” Is touring different these days? “We book ourselves into nice restaurants, be cultural, visit art galleries. We still consider touring to be a real pleasure. Plus, you get this insider information in every city that you go to – the best coffee places, the best record shops.” How do you get through such epic tours? You’re going till Christmas… “You have to look out for one another on the road. Emotionally it’s quite difﬁcult. It’s the biggest tour we’ve ever done, but we’re seasoned pros. We’re not raving and staying up all night in the way we sometimes used to.” Hot Chip’s new album, A Bath Full of Ecstasy, is out now. They’re on tour throughout Europe till 15 December. hotchip.co.uk

PHOTOS RONALD DIC K , G E T T Y IMAG ES , AL AMY

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Londoners are chilling at the Yard KING’S CROSS’S REVAMPED COAL DROPS YARD IS PACKING SOME SERIOUS HEAT

London can be a daunting place. It’s a full-on metropolis crammed with culture, but trekking round it made even hardened hikers’ heels wince. That is, until Coal Drops Yard, um, dropped. This shiny new enclave in King’s Cross is basically a ‘best of’, with food, museums and plenty of shut-up-and-take-my-money shops, all without a blister in sight.

1. WINE AND CHEESE ARE PLENTIFUL

2. COFFEE’S TAKEN VERY SERIOUSLY

What’s a sophisticated London excursion without a little wine and cheese detour? The Drop is discreetly situated under beautiful brick arches, and focuses on ‘provenance and personality’. That means wines from carefully sourced winemakers alongside meat and cheese platters that showcase the very best of artisanal, handmade British produce.

A sumptuous little morsel of France right here in London, Le Café Alain Ducasse opened in February this year with a menu chock-full of meticulously sourced high-quality blends and single-origin coffees. Served in the Gallic way, with cute ﬂuffy madeleines and Monsieur Ducasse’s signature rich chocolates, it’s all très bijou.

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BOINGJEWELLERY.COM 3. IT’S A MIRACLE OF DESIGN NOUS This development may have more generous curves than a postwar Hollywood starlet, but Coal Drops is also thoroughly modern. The historic architecture is blended with the best of contemporary design from Heatherwick Studio, a best-ofBritish, multi-award-winning design and architecture powerhouse. You’ve never seen a shopping mall so knockout gorgeous.

Take a photo of this ad or scan the QR code now. Buy your favourite bracelet later.

NEED TO KNOW Coal Drops Yard gets its name from the fact that, when it was built in the 1850s, it was a coal depository beside busy King’s Cross train station.

New Stockists welcome, email billy@boingjewellery.com

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4. THE PINTS ARE DELICIOUSLY DRINKABLE Another newbie on the King’s Cross scene, Little Creatures brewery has come all the way from Western Australia to set up a sizeable taproom by Lewis Cubitt Park. As well as a stellar selection of pub grub, there’s a range of ultra-sessionable craft brews on tap. Don’t leave without trying the famous Pale Ale.

5. ONE OF LONDON’S COOLEST GALLERIES IS HERE Squirrelled around a corner, you’ll ﬁnd the House of Illustration, the UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration and graphic art. Founded by artist Sir Quentin Blake, it’s small but engrossing, with three rooms dedicated to all things drawn.

6. BIKES HAVE NEVER LOOKED BETTER With the picturesque canal nearby and a surprising amount of green space for such a central London location, there’s no better framing for your bike. Snag a stylish Freddie Grubb model from nearby Wolf & Badger to have the snazziest wheels on the block.

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“There’s a surprising amount of green space for such a central London location” 7. YOU CAN BARBECUE YOUR OWN DINNER Yes, shopping is great, but you know what’s better than shopping? Eating. Parrillan, the shiny new outdoor terrace restaurant from the Barraﬁna group, not only has lovely views across Regent’s Canal, it also has mini charcoal ‘parrillas’ or grills for you to cook a delectable selection of tender meat, fresh seafood and crunchy veg. Even though you’re eating Argentinian style, you haven’t left the Yard.

NEED TO KNOW Thomas Heatherwick, the designer behind the Coal Drops repurposing, is also responsible for some of London’s best-known designs, including the new Routemaster bus.

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The cut-in-half hotel FRANCE/SWITZERLAND

The best-known building in La Cure is Hotel Arbez, where the French-Swiss border bisects several rooms – including the bed in the honeymoon suite.

The time-travelling golf course

The line no woman can cross

SWEDEN/FINLAND

GREECE

Sweden and Finland are in different time zones. Tornio Golf Course is on the border, so it’s possible to hit the ball and have it land an hour back in time.

Around 2,000 monks live on the Greek peninsula of Mount Athos. Females of almost all species are excluded, except cats (to hunt mice).

Borders are bonkers W O R D S A N DY H I L L / I L L U S T R AT I O N N AT H A L I E L E E S

A NEW BOOK EXPLORES SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST UNUSUAL BOUNDARIES. HERE ARE EUROPE’S EDGIEST EDGES

The countryswapping island

The flip-flopping front doors

SPAIN/FRANCE

BELGIUM/NETHERLANDS

For six months of the year the uninhabited Pheasant Island on the Bidasoa River belongs to the Spanish city of Irun; the other half it belongs to the French town of Hendaye. In 350 years it’s changed nationality 700 times and has been a neutral meeting point for kings.

In several border-straddling households, whose nationality is determined by where the entrance is, some have relocated the front door to take advantage of more favourable tax rates.

The Atlas of Unusual Borders, by Zoran Nikolic, is out now, published by HarperCollins

PROMOTION

The drive of a lifetime Grab your camera and your anorak: it’s time to explore one of the most dramatic road trips in the world when you talk about the planet’s best road trips, there are a few that top the list every time: Route 66, the Great Ocean Road, Hawaii’s Hanna Highway. If you’re in need of an adventure this autumn, there’s one route a little closer to home that has the scenery to match some of the best drives in the world. We’re talking about Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast. The 279km route stretches from Belfast all the way round the north-east of the country, ﬁnishing in Derry-Londonderry. Along the way you’ll

Enjoy some of Ireland’s most incredible sights this autumn

be treated to dramatic coastlines and rolling seas (Game of Thrones fans will know what we’re talking about), while the invigorating rain and ocean breeze add to the cinematic views from the cliﬀ paths. With so much to see (and a few of those famously hospitable pubs to keep you fed and watered en route), the road trip adventure you’ve been dreaming of is only a short hop, skip and a jump away. So, what are you waiting for? To ﬁnd this handy route guide, search Causeway Coast at tomtom.com/roadtrips

3. Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge The precariously-high rope bridge is where fearless travellers will be rewarded with some superb sea life spotting.

2. Caves of Cushendun One for GoT fans, the caves are a little oﬀ the beaten track, leaving you to explore the 400 million year-old rock formations at your leisure.

1. The Gobbins Cliﬀ Path Stunning man-made bridges and walkways alongside rugged coastal paths make this a perfect ﬁrst stop.

COLERAINE

LO ND O NDERRY

B A L LY M E N A

1 4. The Giant’s Causeway One of the world’s greatest natural wonders, explore the mysterious, basalt rock formations rising out of the sea.

N E W TOW N A B B E Y LO U G H NE AG H B ELFAST

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Order by: 01/12/2019 Min spend: £60 Max reward: £25

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Halloween is a scream EUROPE IS COMING OUT IN GOOSEBUMPS AT ALL THESE EERIE EVENTS… t’s that time of year when ‘ghosting’ is suddenly cool and acting creepy is encouraged. Here are the hottest parties, sorted by fear factor...

Mildy unnerving For an old school, kid-friendly fright-fest, head to Noite dos Calacús in the towns of the Galicia region. There’s feasting and parades and witchy rituals, plus queimada is drunk: it’s a coffee, lemon and liqueur brew made in a pumpkin and has a spell cast on it to ward off evil. 31 October. Fly to Santiago de Compostela

W O R D S A N D Y H I L L / I L L U S T R AT I O N A N D R E A C H R O N O P O U LO S

Somewhat disquieting Inspired by Día de los Muertos (Mexican Halloween, essentially) the Festival of the Dead (right) is

a touring party with big-budget circus theatrics, DJs, carnival costumes and face painters on site to ensure you and the squad all look your absolute worst. 26 October. Fly to Amsterdam

Frankly alarming Props to Bloody Sexy Halloween for acknowledging this time of year is about ratcheting up the raunchiness. Celebrating a decade of nailing that sweet spot between spectral and smoke show, the winner of its costume competition will get 40,000CZK (€1,535) cash. 1 & 2 November. Fly to Prague

Downright terrifying Banging bloodthirsty German EDM, anyone? Pumpkin: Broken Therapy is a music festival in Oberhausen, 40 minutes’ drive north of Düsseldorf, dedicated to ‘the harder sounds’ – hardcore, rawstyle and uptempo – across six arenas in Oberhausen’s turbine hall. 31 October. Fly to Düsseldorf

Perfume’s causing a stink A well-meaning ofﬁcial plan to spray perfume in train carriages on Vienna’s public transport got right up commuters’ hooters, outraging thousands who voted to scrap the scheme. Melon, grapefruit and green tea aromas all wafted out of the U-Bahn’s vent system, yet folk were unimpressed. Bosses also tried sandalwood – no wonder commuters were so incensed.

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“Venice is just as good by yourself” TRAV TRAVELLING SOLO IS A LIFE-CHANGING EXPERIENCE – EVEN IN CUFFING EXPER SEASON, SAYS DAISY BUCHANAN SEAS ome say Venice is the most romantic destination in the world. Perhaps it’s because you’re surrounded by exquisite art. How could anyone fail to think beautiful thoughts when there are so beaut many beautiful things to see? It might be the thrilling combination of ancient and thr modern, moder and the way the grand and the quaint come together to create a qu kind of o aesthetic adult Disneyworld. Or maybe it’s the food. It’s impossible ma not to feel intimate with someone when you’re eating spaghetti with y them and a the sensory overload is too extreme extrem for you to notice the olive oil dripping drippi down your chin. However, I think it’s because Venice Ho has an indeﬁnable, indescribable magic that is impossible to resist no matter who you’re with. How do ma I know? know Because I fell head over

I L LU S T R AT I O N S M I C K M A R S TO N / P H OTO T R AC E Y G R I F F I N

heels for the Floating City when I went there for a work conference – three days after a heartbreaking, brutal dumping, sharing a room with a grumpy boss and exploring the local sights while wearing a mandatory neon tabard emblazoned with the company logo. Autumn marks the start of ‘cufﬁng season’ – a clumsy phrase for a romantic concept. Essentially, we’re supposed to spend the summer sowing our wild oats and making eyes at passing strangers over mint Magnums – then, just before the clocks go back, the music stops and we choose The One. We might be together forever, we might just last for a few baked potato and box-set binges, but broadly speaking, we’re expected to hibernate in pairs, which is why my break-up broke me. He didn’t just tell me that he didn’t love me any >

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more, he did it on the ﬁrst day of October, just before I was due to visit the city of romance. At ﬁrst I thought Venice was made for lovers. Every couple made me feel lonelier, even when I tried to get my revenge by photobombing their honeymoon pictures in my neon tabard. It was a gorgeous, golden autumn. Everyone seemed burnished by the sunlight and glowing with joy. Come evening, the streetlights would come on and I’d watch the visitors march two by two to a cosy restaurant or elegant bar, leaving me alone in the cold and dark.. Eventually, I was given a day off. What do you do when you’re all by yourself in the most romantic city in the world? I wallowed over breakfast, wondering whether I would ever have anyone special to share anything with again. I thought about how I’d spend the day if I was there with my ex. I heard his voice in my head. He complained about how expensive everything was, how much his feet hurt, how he didn’t want to go for a Bellini at Harry’s Bar, because it cost too much.

“Venice had inspired me to take myself on a really special first date” I asked myself the question again: what do you do when you’re all by yourself in the most romantic city in the world? Anything you like! I started my day at Teatro la Fenice and found it dazzling. Nerdily, I requested the 50-minute audio tour. My ex hated both opera and audio tours. I found an exhibition about 1930s fashion in a tiny palazzo, and spent hours lingering over sketches and fabric samples. I had an ice cream and, when I saw a gelato stand that looked even more delicious 20 minutes later, I stopped for another one. I had my Harry’s Bar Bellini and as I sipped I sneakily studied my reﬂection in the glass opposite. I didn’t look like a loser. I was aloof, mysterious, out on a date with myself. A girl who is in a foreign country drinking a Champagne cocktail by herself hasn’t failed at life and love. She has many adventures ahead of her.

As I walked back, I felt excited. Perhaps this was an opportunity for me to get to know myself better. Venice had inspired me to take myself on a really special first date. I could survive the winter alone, because I had me. That trip taught me there’s an enormous difference between being alone and being lonely. I had come out of a relationship where I’d often felt isolated, losing touch with some of my defining passions, because I had tried so hard to be perfect for someone else. Being by myself forced me to find myself and make sure I never got lost again. Less than a year later, I returned to Venice with the man who would become my husband. We took nerdy audio tours and ate lots of ice cream. It was one of the most romantic experiences of my life, but in its own way, that first trip was just as romantic. That’s how special Venice is. You can fall in love with yourself there and not even the most luminous tabard in the world can put you off.

TAKE DAISY’S ADVICE… DO Make the most of a holiday, even if you’re on your own.

DON’T Change for anyone – or worry about eating two gelatos in a row.

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REAL PEOPLE, AMAZING PLACES, TRAVEL TO WRITE HOME ABOUT

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A TEAM OF FRENCH INVENTORS THINK THEIR ROBOT CAN RIVAL PROFESSIONAL PIZZA CHEFS. LAUREN BRAVO TASTE TESTS A PIE-IN-THESKY IDEA IN PARIS PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA STEVENS

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STEP 1

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EARNING A CRUST Clockwise from top left: From point of order to baked and ready, it will take the robot 4 minutes and 30 seconds to make a pizza for you

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STEP 6

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;crazyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in Italian) reinventing their cherished wheel. Are they having to revive scores of KRUULĹ&#x201E;HG QRQQDV" É&#x2030;3HRSOH DUH YHU\ SRVLWLYH É&#x160; VD\V *ROGPDQ É&#x2030;:H KDYH DFWXDOO\ KDG D ORW RI GHPDQG IURP SL]]D FKHIV VD\LQJ É&#x2039;, ZDQW \RXU URERW LQ P\ SL]]HULD É&#x152;É&#x160; :RXOG 3D]]L HYHU DXWRPDWH D )UHQFK FODVVLF" &RXOG ZH VHH F\ERUJ FURLVVDQWV RU 'DOHN GXFN FRQĹ&#x201E;W" É&#x2030;8V QR EXW VRPHERG\ ZLOO GR LW É&#x160; )RU QRZ WKH WHDP LV IRFXVHG RQ UROOLQJ RXW WKH 3D]]L FRQFHSW IDU and wide. EKIM recently raised â&#x201A;Ź10 million of investment to accelerate its SURJUHVV Čż EXW GRQÉ&#x152;W ZRUU\ WKH cybermen arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t FRPLQJ IRU \RXU IDYRXULWH WUDWWRULD É&#x2030;:H FUHDWH ZH GRQÉ&#x152;W UHSODFH É&#x160; WKH\ LQVLVW ÄˇH FRPSDQ\É&#x152;V

PIZZA CAKE The robot can make 15 different pizzas or your customised choice of up to four toppings

STEP 7

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DESTINATION PARIS Stay three nights room only at the three-star Ibis Paris Alesia Monparnasse, departing Bristol 22 November, from ÂŁ159pp*. easyJet.com/holidays easyJet ďŹ&#x201A;ies to Paris from 55 destinations

I L L U S T R AT I O N S G E T T Y I M A G E S * P R I C E S Q U O T E D F O R H O L I D A Y S A R E P E R P E R S O N . L I M I T E D A V A I L A B I L I T Y . S E E P 1 4 1 F O R T & C S

â&#x20AC;&#x153;A lot of pizza chefs are saying, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I want your robot in my pizzeriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;?

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Ä·H 6WRULHV Dirndl couture 4 7

F R O C K T O B E R AS BAVARIAN AS SAUSAGES AND POWERFUL FOOTBALL TEAMS, THE DIRNDL IS A SYMBOL OF THE SOUTHERN GERMAN STATE. BUT IN MUNICH, THIS TRADITIONAL DRESS IS GETTING A 21ST-CENTURY UPGRADE, SAYS SHIRA RUBIN

F E S T !

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UPSIDE DE GOWN râ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs Lola Paltingerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s orated the have reinvigorated dirndl, with celebrities ry and Kim like Katy Perry an (above) Kardashian seen wearing aring them

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Bavarian images are important,â&#x20AC;? she says, adding that the once folksy dirndl has in recent years come to symbolise Munichâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s multicultural, openminded, modern character. Dirndls are getting love all over the internet, but the garment dates back to the 19th century, when dirndl and lederhosen were worn by the Alpine peasant class. At the time, barmaids and domestic workers valued the sturdiness of the IDEULF DQG DGGHG ULEERQV Ĺ&#x2021;RUDO LQOD\V RU HYHQ pieces of gold for harvest celebrations, weddings and other social gatherings. Women tied their apron belt to the right to mean â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;takenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, to the left to mean â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;singleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, and in the middle to mean â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;virginâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; or â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;none of your business!â&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Only around 1900, when Munich was undergoing rapid industrialisation, GLG WKH ORRN JHW LWV XUEDQ PDNHRYHU ÄˇH :DOODFK brothers, two German Jews from the Westphalia region who fondly remembered their summer costumes in the Alps opened a speciality shop that brought the look into cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most elite salons. In the 1930s, the Nazi regime co-opted the look as SDUW RI WKH $U\DQ LGHDO DQG XOWLPDWHO\ FRQĹ&#x201E;VFDWHG WKH EURWKHUVÉ&#x152; SURSHUW\ IRUFLQJ WKHP WR Ĺ&#x2021;HH )RU a while afterwards, the proud wearing of dirndls remained somewhat taboo. It took a few good decades before it made its urban debut again. In the 1990s, Paltinger opened a dirndl shop out of her living room, seeing potential for beautiful, expertly crafted pieces that could help her countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s desire to reconnect in a healthy way with its own loaded history. She believes that the dirndlâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s timeless, feminine cut is a trend thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s here to stay. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Even if the dirndls are very modern, all the work we do is by hand,â&#x20AC;? says Paltinger. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like in former times, when people came to European FLWLHV DQG KDG D IDVKLRQ VKRZ WR VHH GLÄźHUHQW VW\OHV )RU PDQ\ SHRSOH WRGD\ Ĺ&#x201E;QGLQJ WKH GLUQGO of their dreams is the big event.â&#x20AC;? lolapaltinger.de

DESTINATION MUNICH Stay nights room only at 4-star Leonardo Hotel Munich City South, departing London Gatwick on 15 Dec, from ÂŁ159pp*. easyJet.com/holidays easyJet ďŹ&#x201A;ies to Munich from 8 destinations

P H O T O S M A R T I N N I N K , LO L A PA LT I N G E R , G E T T Y I M A G E S * P R I C E S Q U O T E D F O R H O L I D A Y S A R E P E R P E R S O N . L I M I T E D A V A I L A B I L I T Y . S E E P 1 4 1 F O R T & C S

â&#x20AC;&#x153;DIRNDLS ARE GETTING LOVE ALL OVER TH E I NTE RN E T, B UT TH E GARM E NT DATE S BACK TO THE 19TH CENTURYâ&#x20AC;?

THE UNTOURIST ’S GU IDE TO BEING A TOURIST EIGHT WAYS TO AVOID THOSE HOLIDAY CLICHÉS – AND HAVE A BETTER, MORE FULFILLING TRAVEL EXPERIENCE WORDS ANDY HILL PHOTOGRAPHS SUN LEE

Ä·H 6WRULHV Untourist yourself 51

5 2 ķH 6WRULHV Untourist yourself

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Get to know the locals THE BEST THING about your destination â&#x20AC;&#x201C; better WKDQ WKH IRRG HYHQ ČżÉĄLV the people. You could chat them up the old-fashioned way â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or try smart new initiatives like Marry an Amsterdammer for the Day which, after a cutesy fake wedding, helps you explore in the Dutch capital with D ERQD Ĺ&#x201E;GH ORFDO 2U 5HQW a Finn, whichâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll pair you up with a friendly Nordic chum who may let on why Finland is consistently rated the happiest place on Earth. At the very least, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll probably know somewhere decent to eat.

Ä·H 6WRULHV Untourist yourself 5 5

GIVE SOMETHING BACK WHY NOT TAKE time out from your break to make the world a better place? Leket, in Tel Aviv, is a forwardthinking organisation that, among other initiatives, picks surplus produce LQ Å&#x201E;HOGV WKDW ZRXOG RWKHUZLVH EH OHIW WR rot, then processes and packages it to be passed on to Israeli food banks and RWKHU ZRUWK\ QRQSURÅ&#x201E;W GLVWULEXWRUV 5HJLVWHU RQ WKHLU ZHEVLWH OHNHW RUJ to donate as little as two hours of your WLPH È¿É¡JHW VRPH H[HUFLVH PDNH IULHQGV DQG UHDS VRPH VHULRXV JRRG NDUPD

5 6 Ä·H 6WRULHV Untourist yourself

GET LOST A DEFINING TRAIT RI QDÄ¼ PRGHUQ WRXULVP LV RXU RYHU UHOLDQFH RQ JDGJHWV UDWLQJV ZHEVLWHV DQG RQOLQH PDSV 6R SXW \RXU GHYLFH GRZQ EDVLFDOO\ DQG JHW ORVW $GYHQWXUH SODQQHUV %ODFN 7RPDWR JR DOO RXW RQ WKDW FRQFHSW DQG ZLOO FKHHUIXOO\ SORQN \RX DQG \RXU PDWHV RXW LQ WKH 0RURFFDQ ZLOGHUQHVV IROORZLQJ DW D GLVFUHHW GLVWDQFH WR FKHFN \RXÉ&#x152;UH 2.È· 2U LI \RXÉ&#x152;G SUHIHU WR EH GLVFRPEREXODWHG LQ D PRUH XUEDQ VHWWLQJ Ä·H :RUVW 7RXUV LV D FROOHFWLYH RI RXW RI ZRUN DUFKLWHFWV LQ 3RUWR ZKR FXUDWH PHDQGHULQJ SD\ ZKDW \RX OLNH WRXUV RI WKH FLW\ WKDW DUH VWUXFWXUHG DV É&#x2039;GHEDWHVÉ&#x152; DQG PRGHVWO\ UDWHG RQ WKHLU ZHEVLWH DV É&#x2039;VR ODPHÉ&#x152;

ÄˇH 6WRULHV Untourist yourself 59

DRINK IN THE LOCAL CULTURE LOTS OF US enjoy a tipple or two while abroad, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s worth making D OLWWOH HÄźRUW WR VXS VRPH EUHZV \RX canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get at home. Most cities have a hooch thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s distinctively their own Čż %DUFHORQD IRU LQVWDQFH LV DOO DERXW YHUPRXWK EHVW HQMR\HG DW VSHFLDOLW\ VSRWV OLNH WKH QHZ /DV 9HUPXGDV which has over 100 varieties of the IRUWLĹ&#x201E;HG EHYYLH 5HPHPEHU ZKHQ \RXÉ&#x152;UH SDUFKHG WR ORXGO\ GHFODUH â&#x20AC;&#x153;FER UN VERMUT!â&#x20AC;? (it means É&#x2039;YHUPRXWK WLPH É&#x152; EHFDXVH ČżÉĄSUR WLS Čż LW PDNHV GD\ GULQNLQJ LQ WKH VXQ VHHP a whole lot more sophisticated.

DEEP DIVE A DISTRICT :( *(7 ,7 É&#x201A;ÉĄ<28É&#x152;5( on board with the idea of being less touristy, but you end up staying in a hotel with, well, a bunch of tourists. &KHFN RXW 8UEDQDXWV D FDQQ\ QHZ accommodation scheme in Vienna that plants you right where the locals live, in a less saturated, less central spot, untroubled by most box-ticking sightseers (urbanauts.at). If you want to sample life like a Viennese, why not give it a whirl?

Ä·H 6WRULHV 8QWRXULVW \RXUVHOI 61

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6 2 Ä·H 6WRULHV Untourist yourself

MAKE YOUR OWN MEMENTO KEYRINGS. FRIDGE MAGNETS. Tea towels. Are we done buying generic rubbish? Good. Plenty of places around Europe let you make your own distinctive keepsakes and learn some nifty new skills while youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re at it. At Maison Candora in Paris, you can whip up your own perfume on a fun two-hour course. In Barcelona, craft your own GaudÃinspired mosaic picture frame at 0RVDLFFRV &RQÅ&#x201E;VHULH ,VOHU LQ StÃ¤fa, Switzerland, will let you make FKRFRODWH È¿É¡JRRG OXFN JHWWLQJ LW KRPH ZLWKRXW VFRÄ¿QJ LW WKRXJK

KING-SIZE BEDS. LUXURIOUS LINENS.

GATWICK SOUTH TERMINAL, NEXT TO DEPARTURES BIRMINGHAM, IN THE HEART OF THE JEWELLERY QUARTER WWW.BLOCHOTELS.COM

6 4 ÄˇH 6WRULHV Untourist yourself

HALF THE FUN of travel is in documenting where youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re at, of course. But must you insert your mug into every single frame? For top holiday snaps, hang out with the pros and pick up some tips on photo tours, like a tailor-made jaunt around the mind-blowing scenery of ,FHODQG ZLWK *HR7UDYHO JHRWUDYHO LV %HVW RI DOO WKH\ RÄźVHW \RXU carbon footprint, so Iceland can stay just as gorgeous for the next wannabe snapper.

P H OTOS G E T T Y I M AG E S

And finally, stop taking selfies

F ir s t S t o p :

KitzbĂźhel

Home of Ski and Pa ssion.

w w w.kitzski.uk

PROMOTION

Discover the secrets of Granada Nestled in the shadow of the Sierra Nevada mountains, the region is deservedly famous for the Alhambra Palace, but here are four hidden gems to add to your itinerary

Ski the Sierra Nevada

Go desert-trekking

Let loose in a cave

Have some me-time

Spain might not be the ﬁrst place that comes to mind when you think of winter sports, but its famous mountain range has 124 ski routes to explore during the cold months. With peaks of more than 3,000m, it provides some of the highest runs in Europe, and is suitable for all skill levels. After a hard day of cutting up the slopes, you can either retire to the idyllic resort of Pradollano or hit the sights of Granada city.

From snowy peaks to one of Europe’s few deserts, the region is one of extremes. The ancient valleys in the north can be explored at Geopark Granada, a conservation area that introduces visitors to the eight-million-year history of the area. Take an excursion with a knowledgeable guide, who will teach you about the fossils, extinct wildlife and archaeological curios that can be seen in the rocks.

Granada was one of the areas in southern Spain where the gitano population brought the flamenco to life. Today, the dance is still fiercely popular and best caught in the Sacromonte neighbourhood in the east of the city – specifically, the traditional flamenco caves. Open every night, visitors are introduced to the joys of the flamboyant zambra style, which dates back to the Moorish weddings of the 16th century.

However packed your holiday itinerary is, be sure to spend an afternoon in one of the province’s ﬁve main spas for some well-deserved relaxation. Alhama, Alicún, Graena, Lanjarón and Zújar all take their cues from the restorative routines that have been practised by locals for centuries, with outdoor springs, thermal baths and steam rooms sitting alongside more modern amenities.

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ķH 6WRULHV Neratov 67

Could this be Europ e’s most utopian villag e?

Welcome to…

A SMALL COMMUNITY IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC HAS BECOME A MODEL OF INCLUSIVITY, HELPING PEOPLE WITH PHYSICAL AND MENTAL DISABILITIES REALLY THRIVE. STEPHANIE ROSS GETS INVOLVED PHOTOGRAPHS DAVE IMMS

6 8 ķH 6WRULHV 1HUDWRY

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BREW GOOD David Havlíček shovels hops in the Neratov microbrewery. Below left: A pint of Proft lager getting pulled in the village pub

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7 0 ÄˇH 6WRULHV Neratov

DIG IT The townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market garden provides produce for the pub. Below: resident and garden worker Kvetoslava Capkova

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Neratov is dotted with Hansel and Gretel cottages, their neat gardens garnished with lavender and pots of bright geraniumsâ&#x20AC;? receive training in pottery, ceramics and weaving, so they can create shawls, baskets, mugs and pots for sale in the ORFDO VKRS DQG WR IXOĹ&#x201E;O RUGHUV IURP businesses all over the country. ÄˇH\ DUH JURZLQJ E\ WKH GD\ Čż when they took part in a national Facebook Live campaign last year to sell their goods as Christmas presents, over 500 orders were placed. When the Czech Republicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest bank featured the village in a national advertising campaign, visits to the region skyrocketed. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see why visitors make the trip. Tucked into the crook of a gently winding road, Neratov is dotted

with Hansel and Gretel cottages, their neat gardens garnished with lavender and pots of bright geraniums. A river tumbles through the valley, while on the hill a graceful, yellow-breasted church with an unusual glass roof overlooks the village below. ÄˇLUW\ \HDUV DJR 1HUDWRY GLGQÉ&#x152;W exist in any recognisable form. It had been ruined and abandoned after ::,, ÄˇDW KDQGVRPH EDURTXH church, a sacred site of pilgrimage since the 16th century, was set ablaze in 1945 by a drunk Russian soldier. Afterwards, when the German population was forcibly expelled from the region at the warâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s end, the >

ILLUSTRATION: GIANLUCA BISCALCHIN

ÄˇH 6WRULHV Neratov 7 3

number of people living in Neratov fell from 1,800 to just two. But in the summer of 1987, a young priest named Josef SuchĂĄr came across the crumbling village during a hike. As warm and engaging as ever, Josef heaves open the heavy church door for me today while explaining how he instantly felt a spiritual connection with this place. â&#x20AC;&#x153;No matter how ruined everything was, I knew it was special,â&#x20AC;? KH VD\V É&#x2030;ÄˇHUH ZDV VRPHWKLQJ P\VWLFDO about it. I stood inside this church, looked at the open sky and asked, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Dear God, is anything ever going to change with this country?â&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;? In 1989, Josef â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prayers were answered in the form of the Velvet Revolution. Josef could openly practise religion again and became priest of the local area â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and his parish included the desolate Neratov. He made a vow to rebuild the church and with it build a new community for people with disabilities. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was a time for new life,â&#x20AC;? he says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We promised that we wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just talk about kindness and giving a helping hand â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we would act to make life better for those most in need.â&#x20AC;? Josef and I wander over to a noisy playground, where disabled kids from Neratovâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s school are wholeheartedly loving summer camp. Here I meet -DQD 1Ă&#x17E;PFRYĂ&#x2030; FKDLU RI WKH 1HUDWRY Association, who has fostered six children with disabilities over 30 >

PLAY TIME Fun at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s summer camp, run for the children who attend Neratovâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s school, all of whom have complex physical or mental disabilities

74 ÄˇH 6WRULHV 1HUDWRY

VILLAGE LIFE The townâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restored church. Below: Lunchtime in the local pub. Bottom: SmaĹženĂ˝ sĂ˝r (fried cheese) and chips thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s served there. Opposite: Inside the church, with its glass roof

years. Jana has known Father Josef since the beginning and laughs when I ask her why she got involved. É&#x2030;:KHQ -RVHI Ĺ&#x201E;UVW WROG XV KLV YLVLRQ ZH thought everyone would just shake WKHLU KHDGV DQG OHDYH KLP WR LW É&#x160; VKH VD\V É&#x2030;EXW KLV SDVVLRQ ZDV VRPHWKLQJ HOVH :LWKLQ D \HDU RXU IDPLO\ KDG PRYHG KHUH WR KHOS ZLWK UHEXLOGLQJ ,W allowed us to follow our own dream RI RÄźHULQJ RXU KRPH WR FKLOGUHQ QR RQH HOVH ZDQWHG É&#x160; ÄˇH SURMHFW JUHZ ZLWK RQH LPSRUWDQW SULQFLSOH DW LWV KHDUW GLVDEOHG HPSOR\HHV RI WKH 1HUDWRY Association are not cogs in a wheel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they are the wheel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and they decide any future direction of the village. É&#x2030;ÄˇH\ KHOS WR FUHDWH HYHU\WKLQJ É&#x160; VD\V )DWKHU -RVHI É&#x2030;DQG HYHU\WKLQJ WKDWÉ&#x152;V FUHDWHG LV KHUH WR DWWUDFW SHRSOH WR

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Employees in Neratov are not cogs in a wheel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they decide the villageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s directionâ&#x20AC;?

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those who want to stay the night; and locals also open their doors to tourists. Ä·HUHÉ&#x152;V D VKRS VRPH FKLFNHQV DQ RUFKDUG D FKLOGUHQÉ&#x152;V SOD\JURXQG DQG D FRPIRUWLQJ VHQVH RI WKH SUHVHQW GD\ EHLQJ MXVW RXW RI UHDFK 1HDUE\ F\FOH SDWKV DQG KLNLQJ URXWHV WDNH \RX GLUHFWO\ LQWR WKH (DJOH 0RXQWDLQV D SURWHFWHG ODQGVFDSH GRWWHG ZLWK FDVWOHV ULYHUV DQG IRUHVWV Ä·H PRXQWDLQV WUDFH WKH ERUGHU ZLWK 3RODQG IRU NP EXW DUH VWLOO DQ HDV\ GULYH RQ JRRG URDGV IURP 3UDJXH $WWUDFWLYH UHJLRQDO WRZQV LQFOXGH 3DUGXELFH UHQRZQHG IRU LWV JLQJHUEUHDG DQG /LWRP\Ä&#x2013;O ZLWK LWV Unesco-listed Renaissance castle. Ä·HVH GD\V WKH &]HFK 5HSXEOLF LV D WKULYLQJ GHPRFUDF\ ZLWK RQH RI WKH PRVW ZHOO GHYHORSHG HFRQRPLHV in the region. Its disability policies KDYH FRPH D ORQJ ZD\ È¿ FKLOGUHQ ZLWK WKHP DUH QRZ LQWHJUDWHG LQWR PDLQVWUHDP VFKRROV DQG EXVLQHVVHV DUH VHW SURJUHVVLYH WDUJHWV WR HLWKHU HPSOR\ D SHUFHQWDJH RI SHRSOH ZLWK GLVDELOLWLHV ZLWKLQ WKH ZRUNIRUFH RU

SXUFKDVH D SURSRUWLRQ RI WKHLU VXSSOLHV IURP DVVRFLDWLRQV WKDW HPSOR\ SHRSOH ZLWK GLVDELOLWLHV Ä·LV PHDQV WKDW WKH UHVLGHQWV RI 1HUDWRY IURP WKHLU ZRUNVKRSV LQ WKH PRXQWDLQV FDQ produce goods that are bought by large FRPSDQLHV LQFOXGLQJ 6LHPHQV Ä·LV LQFRPH ZLOO JR WR KHOS ZLWK 1HUDWRYÉ&#x152;V SODQV IRU D QHZ VFKRRO DQG UHVSLWH FDUH IDFLOLWLHV DV ZHOO DV DQ DGGLWLRQDO VKHOWHUHG KRXVLQJ EORFN new restaurant and expanded shop. $OO RI ZKLFK ZLOO LQ WXUQ VXSSRUW PRUH SHRSOH OLNH 'DYLG É&#x2030;, GRQÉ&#x152;W ZDQW WR OHDYH WKLV SODFH É&#x160; KH VD\V É&#x2030;0\ SDVW ZDV EDG EXW WKH SUHVHQW KHUH LQ 1HUDWRY LV SHUIHFW É&#x160; neratov.cz

DESTINATION PRAGUE Stay three nights B&B at the four-star International Prague, departing Manchester on 12 November, from Â£125pp.* easyJet.com/holidays easyJet ï¬&#x201A;ies to Prague from 15 destinations

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76 Ä·H 6WRULHV 1HUDWRY

£109 The average we made our clients from their homes every night they travelled in July*

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ķH (GLW WHERE TO SLEEP, EAT AND SHOP WHEN YOU’RE IN THE KNOW

HISTORY COMES ALIVE IN THIS RESTORED PORTO PALÁCIO, SAYS EUAN FERGUSON TOREL 1884 PORTO

€€€€ ‘PORTO WORKS WHILE Lisbon plays,’ goes the Portuguese saying. But work was scarce in the 00s recession that hit the country hard, and left loads of buildings empty and derelict. Portugal’s northern city is in places a scene of picturesque decay. In 1884, a wealthy merchant built a palace for himself on Rua de Mouzinho da Silveira in the city centre, which could have ended up a shell like its neighbours, but it’s been given a new life as this seriously handsome hotel near the riverfront. Whatever the original owner did for a living, he must have been good at it. (His former bank vault in the basement has been turned into the wine cellar.) This place is palatial at every turn – through the grand, palm-ﬁlled entrance, up the extravagantly wide staircase, into the huge rooms with their 3.6m-high ceilings (and 3.6m-high doors to match). He also would >

ķH (GLW

have been pleased with what the new inhabitants have done with it: walls are touched with those elegant greys, browns and dark blues that make you think, ‘Why can’t I paint my house like this?’; there are exotic ornaments dotted around and original artworks hang gracefully. The decor’s inspired by Portugal’s adventurous seafaring past, so my room on the ‘Asia’ ﬂoor is called Spices – the 11 others are named after the other sort of (SFW)

Passing on Porto? Find your perfect stay wherever you’re going at hotels.easyJet.com

things Portuguese explorers picked up on their maritime voyages – Tobacco, Coffee, Porcelain. Next time I want the room with the hot tub in the private courtyard. An enormous skylight in the middle of the building makes the book-and-knick-knack-filled communal area on the top floor a joy. I sit before dinner and dip into the travel-trunk-turnedhonesty bar for a white port and tonic, this city’s superrefreshing go-to aperitif. Having never as much sipped it before my visit, I’m a total convert. It’s then down to the in-house Bartolomeu restaurant, named after Bartolomeu Dias, the first European to sail around the southern tip of Africa, for its all-Portuguese, small-producer wine list and twists on local dishes, like melon soup, and Portuguese sausages. I might never sail round the world, discover new lands or even set myself up as a successful merchant, but at least for a night I knew what it felt like. torelboutiques.com

A LOT OF BOTTLE Left: The hotel has a wine cellar in a former bank vault. Below: A huge skylight ﬂoods the public areas with sun

BEDLESS? THREE MORE TOWNHOUSE HOTELS HENRIETTA HOTEL FLY TO LONDON Two adjoining Victorian gaffs make up this sleek hotel, brought to life by the mad geniuses at the Experimental Group. HOTEL PROVIDENCE FLY TO PARIS Each room in this ridiculously opulent 19th-century townhouse features a unique design, but luxe velvet and bold patterns are a constant theme throughout. THE DUDE FLY TO BERLIN This disciplined bolthole – no photographs or large groups allowed – isn’t as serious as it seems. A good sense of humour ensures this former private 19th-century mansion stays chipper.

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“ICONOCLASTIC TEL AVIV SPIRIT” THE SETAI TEL AVIV, ISRAEL €€€€ SNEAKING UP TO my fourth-ﬂoor balcony, I gaze past the Setai’s lofted inﬁnity pool and onto Tel Aviv’s ever-rising skyline. I spy a handful of wetsuited surfers bobbing in the Med, none of whom seems to mind the ubiquitous ‘swimming prohibited’ signage staked in Hebrew, Arabic and English along Alma Beach. Indeed, Tel Avivians have long been known to break the rules. As a prison during the town’s era of Ottoman rule, this building once housed notorious local rebels inside its 12th-century walls. Murderous past tenants notwithstanding, the hotel’s

stony beige facade, facing the neighbourhood’s landmark clock tower, is relatively unassuming. Its carceral past is only visible on the lower-ﬂoor windows: constructed during the Crusader period, they’re now bedecked with black iron bars modelled after the jailhouse ones that used to keep people in.

En route to the bar, corridors smell deliciously of roses and baklava, the latter likely wafted down from the second ﬂoor’s Lounge Méditeranée. Here peckish guests will ﬁnd a glorious complimentary spread piled high with the city’s favourite snack – houmous – and other dishes, available from noon to 9pm daily. The sugary scent must have gone to my head, because when I come across the hotel’s forbidden, roped-off staircase, leftover from the aforementioned Crusaders, I’m tempted to climb it. Before I can potentially plunge to my death, I’m blessedly distracted by and ultimately lured into the cavelike bar. I may not have that iconoclastic Tel Aviv spirit yet, but, hey, there’s always time.

PHOTOS ASSAF PINC HUK

PAIGE DARRAH DESCENDS INTO A TURKISH PRISON-TURNED-HOTEL IN TEL AVIV

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REPORT A G U I D E F O R B U S I N E S S T R AV E L L E R S | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 9

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3 INTRODUCTION

I M AG E S G E T T Y, N O U N P R O J E C T. C O M

Welcome CYBER CRIME. DATA BREACHES. helpless in the wake of cyber-crime. Identity theft. A decade ago, these Pulling the plug on our data, however, concepts were barely considered simply isn’t an option given how by the web-surfing public; entangled our lives are in social Did you know? but today they’re all too media, banking apps, familiar a concern. messaging and other As we migrate an modern ‘essentials’. increasing amount Instead, as the experts of our personal and say, it’s incumbent on us professional lives to the all to do the basics right. virtual world, so too The harder we all make Amount lost to cyber-crime in 2018 grows the threat to our it for the bad guys, the data privacy. better chance we stand of Security breaches can disrupt our continuing to get the best out of our lives – sometimes irreparably – so its lives, wherever we may roam. So how understandable that many feel to do that?

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4 THE BIG STORY

KEEPING CYBER-SAFE AND CYBER-SOUND With online security threats ever-increasing, the question on every web-user’s lips is: what can we do to reduce our risk? Simeon de la Torre reports

business Yubico, more than 3.8 million records are stolen every day from data breaches, 80% of those due to stolen or weak passwords. The cost to businesses in IT support alone is staggering – password resets can cost large enterprises nearly £10m per month, the firm estimates. Small businesses are at threat too, especially because they’re less likely to have dedicated security departments or full-time IT teams to help police their networks. So, how to protect yourself?

EN T RY P OIN T The most common way that attackers gain access to your personal data is through your email – a process known as phishing. John Higginson, head of incident preparedness at Context Information Security, explains: “People should look out for emails from people or organisations they don’t know, or from people they do know but are not expecting.” If you’ve ever received an email with an invoice attached when you haven’t ordered anything, or an email purporting to be from a manager or service

IMAGES GET T Y

f you were looking to list mankind’s greatest achievements of the past 50 years, then it would be difficult to ignore the internet, alongside its close relation the World Wide Web. In the three decades since British engineer Tim Berners-Lee first conceived this system, initially devised as a means for scientists to share information over great distances, the web has gone on to change the world – revolutionising the way we live, love and work. But as it has become more ubiquitous, its ability to impact our lives in every way has also grown. The worldwide cyber-threat is on the increase all the time – according to IT security

provider, they are common ploys too, he says. Other tell-tale signs may be that your computer is acting a bit weird or is a lot slower than normal – if in doubt, get it checked out. In a 2019 survey by cybersecurity firm SureCloud, 63% of people were most worried about being compromised by a targeted phishing attack. The firm’s operations director Luke Potter says the issue shouldn’t be left to

“PEOPLE SHOULD LOOK OUT FOR EMAILS FROM PEOPLE OR ORGANISATIONS THEY DON’T KNOW, OR FROM PEOPLE THEY DO KNOW BUT ARE NOT EXPECTING” the techies to fight: “It is critical that organisations adopt a ‘top-down’ approach to cybersecurity, meaning that engagement is gained at executive and board level for cyber-resilience and that it is propagated throughout the workforce. Cybersecurity is the responsibility of everyone in the company, not just the IT or information security team – we all have an obligation.”

6 THE BIG STORY

returned at Y, but they cannot see which house – or website – you’ve visited.” Mobile tech isn’t inherently more vulnerable than an office environment – as long as you’re vigilant. However, Tamzin Evershed, chief privacy officer at Amex Global Travel, believes there are a few areas where greater care is required: for example, don’t check anything on public WiFi that you wouldn’t want anyone else to see.

T HE S O CI A L NE T WORK

The good news for travellers is that we shouldn’t necessarily regard any locations as off-limits, or more of a risk. It’s simply important to exercise extra caution whenever you’re using an unprotected connection – even in your home city. Luis Corrons, security evangelist at Avast, advises that Virtual Private Networks (VPN) are essential for anyone connecting to a public WiFi spot they are not in control of. “A VPN creates a secure encrypted connection, protecting personal data and preventing hackers from accessing or even altering communications over the internet. “If you imagine a neighbourhood with spies on every street corner tracking your movements from one house to the next, a VPN is like your own private underground tunnel that connects you to each house and is beyond the view and jurisdiction of the spies. All they will see is that you left your house at X and

“BY POSTING THAT YOU ARE IN NEW YORK FOR A BUSINESS MEETING, YOU MIGHT BE REVEALING THAT YOUR COMPANY IS BIDDING FOR A PARTICULAR CONTRACT”

IMAGES GET T Y

ON T HE MOV E

“What are you revealing in your social media posts?” Evershed asks. “You can inadvertently reveal commercially sensitive information – for example, by posting that you are in New York for a business meeting, you might be revealing that your company is bidding for a particular contract. While this is, of course, a concern it’s also something that is easily addressed, if you follow the advice in this piece. By taking the appropriate measures, applying a little common sense and the same degree of caution that you would if you were talking in a public place in the real world, you can easily protect yourself. And that then leaves you to enjoy all of the manifest benefits that the online world has to offer.

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The founder and CEO of social investment platform eToro explains how a community of 10 million investors has achieved financial success with one easy-to-use trading app investing and trading in stocks, shares and currencies was once the preserve of Gordon Gekko-types, or people rich enough to pay traders to invest their hard-earned cash on their behalf. Now, things are different. Social investment platform eToro allows anyone to invest with a few taps of a phone or keyboard. If you like the sound of trading made easy, it even allows you to copy the investment patterns of the platform’s most successful users. Yoni Assia, eToro founder and CEO, tells us about this new way to invest. What was the inspiration behind eToro? When eToro was founded in 2007, we had the simple vision of opening up global financial markets so anyone could trade and invest easily and transparently. We’re all familiar with social networks such as facebook, but eToro has taken the concept to investment. can you tell us what eToro is all about? We wanted to create a community where people could share their ideas, so we built the platform as a social network for traders and investors. Our app allows people to see what others are doing and swap ideas and strategies within a community of more than 10 million registered users from over 140 countries. Today, anyone can execute trades. How does the eToro platform help people who might lack either experience or the time to create their own investment strategies? If you want to get into investing but have no time to study financial markets, eToro lets you copy our topperforming investors. Copying is a huge part of our

“WE OPENED UP GLOBAL FINANCIAL MARKETS SO ANYONE COULD TRADE AND INVEST EASILY” lives. We get inspiration from fashion icons, follow recipes from celebrity chefs and try to emulate our sporting heroes. We copy top performers to skip the time-consuming trial and error stage. How does it work with eToro? You can automatically replicate the same trades as the people you follow, ensuring your money is hard at work, while using someone else’s experience. Around half of eToro’s users either copy a “popular investor” or invest in our growing range of CopyPortfolios. They’re learning by doing – there’s no better way! etoro.com

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Better safe than sorry How do you keep your data secure when you’re on the go? Chief information security officer for CANCOM, Marcel Reifenberger, has a few handy tips You’re actually more at risk at home in some ways “People think that being on the go is the problem. But in the Internet of Things-driven homes of today, you are often online, which means you run the risk of someone taking control of your smart thermostat or even your refrigerator.” New technology is presenting a variety of fresh challenges “If a virtual reality whiteboard was maliciously accessed during a meeting, your ideas could be stolen, or worse still, manipulated. Our lives are becoming ever-more connected, and in turn our reputations are put at greater risk.”

Online safety is all about staying aware “There are three crucial steps to staying safe. The first is to make sure your hardware and software are up to date. Always use a VPN software when accessing public Wi-Fi and, for added confidentiality, consider a privacy screen to combat ‘shoulder surfing’. The second step is to cultivate a security mindset. Don’t just click-and-hope; think carefully before buying something from a suspicious-looking website. Finally, make cybersecurity a constant priority. Staying secure is like keeping fit, you need to keep at it.”

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3. MS Diamant Measuring 63 metres in length and weighing in at around 400 tonnes, MS Diamant is the latest motor vessel to join the ﬂeet on Lake Lucerne. Rather surprisingly considering its impressive size, it’s Switzerland’s ﬁrst ever climate-neutral ship, propelled by two hybrid engines that allow passengers to take in the scenery without a guilty conscience. And there are plenty of places to do just that – head downstairs for underwater views, or stay on the main deck and soak your weary feet in the lake water footbath.

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Check Swiss out They say the journey is just as memorable as the destination. Next time you’re in Switzerland, try travelling in style with these four impressive routes

A marvel of modern engineering, the Stoosbahn funicular is more akin to something you’d ﬁnd in a theme park. Europe’s steepest funicular ascends 744 metres over just 1.1 miles in little over four minutes. To keep passengers horizontal during this heart-stopping, near-vertical climb, the carriages – which are shaped like futuristic barrels – cleverly rotate as they move upwards, ensuring the ﬂoor remains perfectly level so you can snap away at the incredible views. swisstravelsystem.co.uk

1. Crystal Ride For the ﬁrst three minutes of the Crystal Ride cable car’s ascent up to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise – Europe’s highest mountain station at 3,883 metres above sea level – everything goes as expected. However, it’s at this point of the journey that the opaque glass ﬂoor of the cabin clears up to reveal a fantastic view of the mountainscape below. If your tolerance for heights is a little shaky, the interiors of the seating area provide ample distraction. More than 280,000 Swarovski crystals have been embellished into the decor, lending the attraction its name in the process.

2. Jungfraujoch Railway Station The true peak of Europe – in terms of railway stations, at least. Opened in 1912, the stop is perched at 3,454m above sea level in the Alps and is accessible via the Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald lines. It is one of the most awe-inspiring journeys in the world, but for a few lucky astronomers working at The Sphinx Observatory, it’s their daily commute. Take the lift from the station and you’ll reach the viewing deck with uninterrupted sights of the surrounding Eiger, Jungfrau and Mönch peaks.

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Times are changing CODE41 is pioneering a new way to create distinctive and affordable watches a watchmaking revolution is under way – and it all started with a question. What if a community of enthusiasts could come together to support the creation of beautiful, high-quality mechanical watches that didn’t cost a fortune? CODE41 has been built with a policy of total transparency on origin, price and production. Its devotees wanted to pierce the secretive world of the Swiss Made label and offer members not only an insight but a say in the evolution of an exciting new brand. Founded by watch designer Claudio D’Amore, CODE41 developed its own timepiece by working directly with manufacturers. Its members – today totalling 240,000 – follow the product’s creation and can vote on its direction. CODE41’s approach certainly captured people’s attention and the first series of 10,000 watches sold out in months. Staying true to its ambition to rethink the rulebook on traditional watch production, the brand decided to cut out the middlemen and sell directly to customers. It was a decision that was

The CODE41 community has a say in how its watches are developed

well received by the brand’s followers, with watches selling for prices in the region of €750 for a model that would cost double the amount if distributed through standard outlets. But the team didn’t stop there. Having disrupted the Swiss Made label with its policy of total transparency, it decided to turn its attention to Haute Horlogerie, and oﬀer an exclusive manufacture movement with Grande Date and peripheral weight, all for a price that was far below its competitors. The result was almost €3m raised in 30 days during a pre-sale campaign earlier this year. The watch industry was crying out for some fresh thinking, and with its bold approach, CODE41 is pioneering a whole new way of thinking. For fans of beautiful watches, CODE41 is oﬀering an exclusive 10 per cent discount on the Anomaly collection. Just use the promo code EZ10 on the brand’s website before 15 November 2019. code41watches.com

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The one for... An on-site vineyard

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YOU’RE BOUND TO encounter the premium wine of Torralbenc in Menorcan restaurants and its vineyard hotel is even more of a treat. If you can make it out the cobalt-blue infinity pool, your reward is the rows of grapevines to meander through. Try a bottle at source in their refined restaurant, fine-tuned by Michelinstarred chef Gorka Txapartegi. Fly to Menorca.

IN A NOBLE, 19th-century building in the centre of Helsinki’s Old Town, this sumptuous hotel ﬁlls its venerable spaces with striking modern art (look out for Ai Weiwei’s multi-headed dragon in the foyer). The onsite bakery is a popular spot for locals to stop by for a coffee and cream bun, and the handsome Wintergarden bar is a cosy delight for evening drinks.

The one for… Learned lodgings

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CAMBRIDGE IS TRADITIONALLY a place of two pastimes – learning and drinking – and a stay in one of the Varsity’s chic rooms is perfect for experiencing both. The recently jazzed-up hotel has a fab roof terrace overlooking the cultured gardens of Magdalen College and is ambling distance from several great ale houses (we recommend the Pickerel Inn). Fly to London.

JUST A FEW minutes’ walk from Termini Station, this listed, four-star Art Deco hotel makes a solid base for exploring. The rooftop terrace restaurant offers spectacular views at breakfast and is also perfectly angled to watch the sunset while enjoying an aperitivo. When in Rome...

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ORNATE PLATES Previous page: Pan-fried foie gras and tuna sashimi. Right: Private dining in a salon. Below: Millefeuille with caramel sauce

PHOTOS JEAN-PIERRE SALLE

years ago. It recently underwent an extensive restoration to make it… Well, even more itself: it’s a preposterously ornate den of very French excess. On our visit, we’re greeted by a dapper waiter who gives us a tour of the salons – private rooms lining a long hallway where, for €50 a head (plus dinner), you can dine with your closest confidantes. These regal, lowlit quarters are where Balzac debated literary theory, Serge Gainsbourg first clapped eyes on Jane Birkin and Kate Moss presumably didn’t eat. Tonight, though, it’s all happening in the dining room. We’re at our table, the pink brocade tablecloth perfectly setting off the silverware. My date barely needs to strain her finger to lift a Champagne flute. “It’s so light,” she gasps. I’m similarly breathless at the gilded walls – I can almost see my gaping mouth in the golden sheen. The cool of Gainsbourg I have not. But of the meal that follows, I’m certain Serge would approve: roasted artichoke comes in a warm, foamy bubblebath; a buttery lobster tail takes a come-

TASTING NOTES THE ONE FOR Frencher-than-French cuisine with a side of living history. EAT THIS A downright naughty millefeuille doused in thick caramel – a heavenly meal-closer. DRINK THIS An amuse-bouche of pink bubbly perfectly cleanses the palate.

hither pose over a bed of puréed potato. Dessert is an impossibly ﬂaky millefeuille, likely hand-laid by a million Parisian fairies. After dinner, we waddle to the Pont Neuf to watch boats glide over the streetlight-dappled Seine. From here, you can see the Eiffel Tower peeking out behind medieval façades, their mirror image shimmering in the water. It’s the Paris of dreams, of postcards… of Lapérouse. laperouse.com

HISTORY COOKS THREE MORE 18TH-CENTURY EATERIES SOBRINO DE BOTÍN FLY TO MADRID Opened in 1725, this supremely Spanish restaurant was officially dubbed the world’s oldest by Guinness itself. Take a cue from Hemingway and order the suckling pig (he loved it so much, he immortalised it in two books). RULES FLY TO LONDON Thomas Rule established this posho dining room in 1798, and it’s been grilling up rarefied game dishes for black-tie types ever since. TAVARES FLY TO LISBON A night at Lisbon’s oldest restaurant feels like dining inside a bar of gold: the gilded walls and endless chandeliers are a suitable setting for the equally dignified food.

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The one for... Unabashed carnivores

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COULD YOU SHOOT your own dinner? At The Woodsman you don’t have to, but the marvellously meaty menu couldn’t be wilder. Carefully farmed in Cotswolds parkland nearby, muntjac, fallow and roe deer appear on a butch menu that also includes signatures from founder Mike Robinson’s ﬁrst London restaurant, the Michelinstarred Harwood Arms. Fly to Bristol.

BANG CENTRAL IN Santa Gertrudis – a pretty little village in the middle of the island – you’ll find this greenery-bedecked garden restaurant (with indoor seating too, just in case). Finca La Plaza trades in EDM beats for sophistication and palate-pleasing flavours, using farm-fresh ingredients and a dash of creativity to conjure dishes like octopus with kumquat confit. You can’t go wrong here – each plate on the concise menu is a headliner.

IN THE FOOTHILLS of Mount Lycabettus, this sleek dining spot is helmed by Greek celebrity chef Argiro Barbarigou. Hailing from the island of Paros, her Aegean heritage is on show in her seafoodheavy cooking – take the amazing white grouper with fresh trufﬂes and wine sauce, for example. The resto’s celeb pedigree also extends to its clientele, so don’t be surprised if you catch some A-listers out for a discreet dinner.

EAT THIS Butterﬂied muntjac haunch with parmesan polenta and grilled brassicas for two.

EAT THIS Homemade croquettes followed by ravioli with burrata, creamy courgette, mint and tomato.

EAT THIS Do as the other half does – shell out for fresh lobster at €90 per kilo.

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Proﬁling the world’s hottest chefs right now WHO? Twenty-seven-year-old prodigy Deni Srdoč. WHERE? Head chef at Draga di Lovrana on the Opati Riviera, where the

WHAT? Making the most of the local Mediterranean bounty, Srdoč weaves classical French, Italian and Spanish techniques with

a modern twist and pictureperfect plating. HE SAYS “Our Kvarner terroir absorbs the taste of the sea – it’s in the samphire, thyme and bay leaves. Our restaurant even has its own ﬁshing ﬂeet and we talk to them daily about what they have. The langoustines are really special.” dragadilovrana.hr/restaurant

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Drink in the skyline from this elevated vantage point or head indoors to admire the Freemasonconstructed Mystery Hotel. mysteryhotelbudapest.

A peerless selﬁe opportunity, this ﬁve-star bar backs onto the Colosseum – distracting from the classy cocktails and Palazzo Manfredi’s new Palm Suite hotel.

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London cocktail king Mr Lyan has knocked it out of the park again with this fun bar. Rock up for a lush all-day menu and creative cocktails, plus vegan doughnuts and a spiked oat milkshake. superlyan.com

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LA hotspot The Standard has imported its hip hotel to London, and its big, buzzing bar is the place to see and be seen. Bold cocktails, dinerstyle sliders and dogs, and DJs seal the win.

A 19th-century train station, abandoned for over 70 years, has been transformed into a cultural hub complete with a mezzanine cocktail bar to alight at for funk and jazz vibes.

For those who like to drink nice things all day long, this smartly outﬁtted coffee shop transforms into a chic bar come dusk, with a tight menu of essentials (like a perky espresso martini).

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make alternative wedding and engagement rings with stones that are a bit different. You can visit my plant-ﬁlled studio by appointment to try pieces on and look at stones. There’s a huge variation, even among diamonds – salt and pepper, grey… And I’m always happy to chat. Felt, also in London, has display cases brimming with a jumble of eclectic charms. It’s almost like being at a vintage market – that feeling of rummaging to ﬁnd that precious thing you’ll fall in love with. The calm White Bird store in Le Marais, Paris, feels more like a living room than a shop. It sells delicate necklaces, bracelets and stacking rings. Look out for pieces by Sia Taylor, who’s inspired by nature and uses repeating shapes.

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“It’s almost like being at a vintage market – that feeling of rummaging WR ńQG WKDW SUHFLRXV WKLQJɊ A lot of people don’t know that Ofﬁcine Nora, in Florence, is open to the public. It’s a working jewellery studio with a changing line-up of designers and you can buy directly from the makers. It also runs jewellery-making workshops. The jewellery selection at high-end 10 Corso Como in Milan is really interesting. Look out for fellow Central Saint Martins’ grad Bea Bongiasca’s playful yet wearable pieces. The Sandberg shop, in Stockholm, is pleasingly minimal, and sells handcrafted silver and recycled-gold jewellery, including engagement and wedding rings.

The designs are simple and charming – good for gifting. There are lots of great jewellery shops in Copenhagen. First, Trine Tuxen Jewelry sells its own sophisticated, fashion-forward designs and not just jewellery, but hair accessories, artisan ceramics and self-care stuff too. Second, Malene Glintborg offers minimalist, playful designs. The shop is like her jewellery, with lots of bright primary colours. And, ﬁnally, there’s the beautiful Bjørg Jewellery ﬂagship (above). Pieces are dark, subversive and sculptural, inspired by themes like BDSM. michelle-oh.com, @michelleohjewellery

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W O R D S F LO WA L E S B O N N E R / P H O TO M AT T H E W T O W N

RAFAEL BORDALO PINHEIRO was born in 1846 in Lisbon. Already a renowned artist and political caricaturist, he branched into ceramics in 1884 – a ﬂight of fancy that soon proved fruitful. Among his most famous creations are these distinctive earthenware swallows. Originally designed to adorn the Tabacaria Mónaco – an elegant tobacconist in the Portuguese capital’s Rossio Square – they quickly became a hit with the locals. The faithful swallow eventually became somewhat of a symbol of the country, with people from Porto to Faro using Pinheiro’s now-patented designs to decorate their homes. Fancy snagging a set of gorgeous pecks for your own wall? Pick some up at the original A Vida Portuguesa store in Rua Anchieta, a handsome hangout in the Chiado neighbourhood that champions design-led Portuguese products, both heritage and contemporary. From €10.90 depending on size. avidaportuguesa.com

FLAASH APPAREL F’S CREW SOCKS Show your ankles some love in these sporty teal socks by Flaash, which collaborates with artists for its street-savvy garms.

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THE DUTCH CAPITAL is a must-visit if you’re a bit of a culture ﬁend. Not least because this year is a rare chance to see the Rijksmuseum’s team of experts restore a masterpiece in public – Rembrandt’s The Night Watch is currently getting a spruce-up and visitors are invited to watch. As well as the city’s impressive art and museum scene, its picturesque canals, cycle-friendly streets and vibrant nightlife offer plenty of ways to keep occupied. There’s lots to love in Amsterdam – here’s what to take on your trip.

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GALLIVANT AMSTERDAM EAU DE PARFUM It’s not yet the season for tulips in the city, but they’re well represented in this scent, with base notes of sandalwood and amber. £65 (approx €72), gallivant-perfumes.com

GRENSON MIE SNEAKERS Handcrafted using the traditional Goodyear welted shoemaking method, these sneakers are ultra-sturdy and perfect for exploring in. They look rather good, too. £280 (approx €307), grenson.com

MAAP X BELROY SHIFT BACKPACK Stay smart on the saddle with this streamlined backpack. Designed especially for cyclists, it has weatherproof zips, a bike-light loop and more handy features. €240, eu.maap.cc

ARTHOUSE UNLIMITED BEARDED MAN T-SHIRT This brand works with artists who have learning disabilities to create unique pieces like this tee. Sure to have you looking cool as you cruise the canals. £20 (approx €22), arthouseunlimited.org

LARQ BOTTLE Yes, reusable bottles are better for the planet, but keeping them clean is a bore. Enter this self-cleaning one, which puriﬁes your water, too. Genius. £95 (approx €105), livelarq.co.uk

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aving walked away from a promising career in Spain, José Pizarro turned up in London not speaking a word of English, but with a burning desire to make it as a chef. He earned his culinary stripes in some of the city’s top Spanish restaurants before striking out on his own with the hugely successful José tapas bar. Two restaurants followed and then, this year, a pub. Pizarro has also written ﬁve cookbooks, developed his own olive oil and wine brands, and employs over 100 people. But has it all gone without a hitch? Not exactly…

“THERE HAVE BEEN BUMPS IN THE ROAD”

JUST BECAUSE SOMETHING WORKS IN ONE RESTAURANT DOESN’T MEAN IT WILL WORK IN ANOTHER, SAYS SPANISH RESTAURATEUR, AUTHOR AND ENTREPRENEUR JOSÉ PIZARRO

I grew up on a farm in a small town in Extremadura and was set to become a dental technician. While studying, I had to make some money, so I worked in a kitchen. Something stirred inside me while I was there. I looked forward to those kitchen shifts more than attending my lectures, and eventually I realised that I should follow my heart and pursue a career as a chef. Eventually I moved to London, as I thought it was the place to cook >

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diverse food and grow as a chef. One big obstacle was not being able to speak English, so I had to ask my friends to translate for me. I learned to speak the language in the kitchens of Spanish restaurants and by listening to my friends talk.

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PLATE UP José Pizarro is happiest when he’s running a service at one of his restaurants

The moment I knew I was on to something was when my ﬁrst small restaurant was full… and it stayed full. I knew people had a ‘hunger’ for simple, good-quality Spanish cuisine, so we’ve stuck to that and have made it work time and again.

JOSÉ PIZARRO’S CV AGE 48 POSITION Chef, author and entrepreneur BORN Spain LIVES London EDUCATION Trained as a dental technician at the University of Extremadura, Cáceres MOTTO “Yes way, José”

You can’t paint every restaurant with the same brush. What worked for José tapas didn’t work for Pizarro restaurant and I needed to create a new set of rules for it. You can’t please everyone all the time, but you can please some of the people all of the time, so we decided to compromise by allowing reservations for a certain number of seats and the rest we left as walk-ins. This turned out to be the best of both worlds, as we are now fully booked most of the time, but still have space for those diners who prefer to spontaneously decide where they want to eat. The best thing about seeing the business grow has been the opportunity to work with so many amazing people. The staff that are part of the José Pizarro team are all like family to me – it’s a great environment. In fact, one big thing I’ve learned along the way is that it’s invaluable to have the right

team around you to ensure that what you’re doing is a success. It’s important to have the right type of person, too, as we all spend so much time together. Writing cookbooks has taken my business to another level, which I am so grateful for. Being able to be in people’s homes and have them cook my recipes is very special. I struggle to disconnect when I go home. I’m always thinking about the business and I genuinely enjoy being at each restaurant in service. The best part of my week is when I get into the kitchen and run a service for one of my restaurants. Nothing beats the rush of a buzzing kitchen and many hands doing incredible work around me. To be able to feed people and watch them smile when eating food that I’ve prepared is one of my life’s big joys.

I N T E R V I E W S I M E O N D E L A TO R R E / I L LU S T R AT I O N PA D DY M I L L S

There have been bumps in the road. When we opened Pizarro restaurant, I wanted to replicate the walk-in only policy from José tapas bar. I thought this would create a demand for seats. The reality was that customers complained, and would go somewhere else and not come back, because they couldn’t be guaranteed a table. We lost a few customers in those early days of Pizarro restaurant.

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Set deep in the heart of the city, just steps away from the lake and historic Old City attractions, the Bristol offers a discreet refuge for you to retreat back to at any hour, day or night: cocoon in the reassuringly comfortable and renovated rooms and suites, hang out at the bar, experience the chef’s fresh and innovative dining at the restaurants, or steal away to the wellness centre dedicated exclusively to total relaxation for both body and mind.

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24 HOURS IN B E RLIN

HOW TO WORK WELL IN GERMANY’S LEAN, GREEN, BUSINESS MACHINE WHAT TO KNOW

expat entrepreneurs and a ﬁfth of the city is multinational.

• The city is Europe’s second-biggest startup hub (London is ﬁrst).

• It’s aiming to be the greenest city in the world and, with over 59% of its area covered in woods, natural areas and waterways, it’s already ahead of many.

WHERE TO GET YOUR LAPTOP OUT

WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO MEET, EAT AND DRINK

S AV E I T

R L AT E R

PA G E N O

For lunch For a taste of Berlin’s food scene, Markthalle Neun is a must. There’s plenty of choice from the vendors at this Kreuzberg spot: classic German dishes, artisan cheese and fresh Japanese sushi. As eclectic as you like.

AP TH

For breakfast Found in Berlin’s artsy Friedrichshain neighbourhood, Silo Coffee is a stylish, laid-back Australianstyle café that sets the bar high for top-quality brunch and locally roasted third-wave coffee.

Whether it’s lunch meetings at Bistro or rooftop cocktails overlooking the Spree, Hotel Amano Grand Central has a great Mitte location and is where business comes to you.

WO R D S S I M EO N D E L A TO R R E / PH OTO S G E T T Y I MAG E S , DAN I Q U E VAN KE S T E R E N , J E N S B Ö S E N B E RG

• Berlin’s affordable living, ﬂourishing tech ecosystem and solid economy attracts

Betahaus, Berlin’s original startup hangout, now has two locations in the city, in Neukölln and Kreuzberg. It offers private and community spaces, gardens (in case you want to work outdoors), weekly events and a free taster pass for your ﬁrst day.

For dinner For organic dining, head to the Michelberger Hotel’s restaurant. Many ingredients are sourced from its own farm and there are always vegan options.

For drinks Once the neighbourhood pharmacy, Ora (above) is now a cocktail hotspot, using locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Just what the doctor ordered.

WHAT TO SAY

“Berlin was once ‘poor but sexy’, but today, with millions of euros ﬂooding into the city’s startups, it can ofﬁcially drop the poor bit.”

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ello there. I’m a writer from the UK. Do you speak English?” A man trying to shield his camera from the rain, battling with steamed-up glasses and too much stuff to carry, looks at me over the top of his specs. He doesn’t. “C’est bon,” I declare, and whip out the Pocketalk two-way translating device. “I’m testing out this device. What is an interesting thing to do in Nantes that tourists might not know about?” The device chews up my words and spits them out in robotic French. The man ﬁxes me with the same look as before, mumbling, “Non, non, non.” He gestures at me to follow him. Progress? Non. He drags me over to his wife who, it turns out, speaks ﬂuent English. “Can I help you?” she asks. “Sadly, no. No, you can’t.” I’m in Nantes, putting the Pocketalk voice-translation machine through its paces. It’s an Android-powered gizmo that looks like a bar of soap and is about the same size as one too. It can translate 74 languages

“ WILL IT GIVE ME TRANSLATION SUPERPOWERS?” BETTER THAN GOOGLE TRANSLATE? A NEW LANGUAGE DEVICE AIMS TO MAKE YOU MULTILINGUAL WHEREVER YOU TRAVEL, SAYS OUR RESIDENT TECH GURU, OLLIE PEART

through voice recognition. The text pops up on the screen as you talk. I know what you’re thinking: there’s an app for that. There sure is, but in a big fat multilingual slap in Google’s face, Pocketalk claims, “It’s better than a phone app. In so many ways.” Is that so? France is the country with the lowest English-speaking rate in the EU, so I’m really able to put this claim to the test. I stumble across a town square with hundreds of statues littered everywhere. The kind you ﬁnd in a garden centre, a bit like gnomes with their bums >

I L LU S T R AT I O N R O B E R T H A N S O N

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COMPRENDE? Our tech guru ﬁnds out if the Pocketalk can help him where GCSE French couldn’t

out. I have no idea what’s going on. It’s time for the Pocketalk. “Can you tell me what these statues are about?” I say into it, then thrust it straight into the face of an unsuspecting girl at an ice-cream shop. I tell her nothing about the device and don’t even attempt to explain how it works. Without hesitation, she hits the button and responds in the same way you’d talk to a voice assistant: monosyllabic and dull. “The statues are asked here for the trip to Nantes,” comes the translation, making absolutely no sense. Before I can respond, she hands me a booklet explaining everything. It’s an art exhibition. This isn’t enough. Handing me a leaﬂet in English isn’t a translation, it’s a cop-out. I try again: “Where can I go that tourists don’t really know about?” The ice-cream seller looks at me, puzzled. Does she understand

TRANSLATION IN NUMBERS 200 million

Number of daily users of Google Translate

Number of languages Pocketalk supports

100

Number of languages Google Translate supports

6,500

Number of languages spoken in the world today

€250

Price of Pocketalk

my question? She speaks to her ice-cream-selling colleague (in French). Then an argument breaks out. It’s brief, but heated enough to melt the ice cream they’re selling. Before long, it’s settled. “You can do the island of Nantes and the tower him or the Jardin des Plantes,” the Pocketalk translates for me. It worked – mostly (what is ‘tower him’?), even if it was a complete faff. So why is Pocketalk even bothering with such a device? Google Translate has 200 million daily users. Translate a tiny fraction of that into sales of a €250 device and you can see the logic. The global translation market is expected to be worth $45bn by 2020. If you can crack the automated translation market, you’re laughing – in French, Japanese and probably Tutsi. I can see the Pocketalk proving genuinely useful in somewhere like China or the Middle East, where you can’t even begin with logical guesswork of words if you don’t speak the language, but for this trip, I didn’t feel like I had a hidden translating superpower – I just felt a bit silly. The translations were OK, but not good enough to rely on. “So, how does it work? Is it on 4G or wiﬁ?” asks the ice-cream seller. “Wait a minute,” I say. “‘You speak English?” “Of course,” she replies, “but only a little.” It seems if you really want to unlock doors with a language, your best bet is to learn it – even just a little. “Erm, both,” I mutter, and leave the icecream shop.

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1/ TIMANFAYA NATIONAL PARK This Martian-like protected area (below) is overrun with lava ﬂows and volcanic cones. Take an immersive tour from the visitor centre with a national park coach to see why Doctor Who was ﬁlmed here. Area: south-west Lanzarote

6&,Ƀ), SIGHTS ON LANZAROTE

3/ JAMEOS DEL AGUA This subterranean concert hall, restaurant and salt lake is set inside a ginormous lava cave. The sci-ﬁ space feels like a Bond villain’s lair without the impending sense of peril. Area: Arrieta 4/ LOS VOLCANES NATURAL PARK Ever fancied walking in a lava tube? You can on a guided hiking tour of this lunar-like expanse on the edge of Timanfaya National Park (left, try Walks Worldwide). Area: south-west Lanzarote

5/ BODEGA LA GERIA Driving Lanzarote’s FROM OUR unearthly wine INSIDER route, there’s a Mike MacEacheran is a travel writer sense of having and author. mikelanded on maceacheran.co.uk Tatooine. The bleak and sandy Star Wars landscape is the result of volcanic soil, with vines grown from inside odd-looking funnel-shaped pits. Area: Yaiza

2/ LANZAROTE PLANETARIUM Run by Kosmos Lanzarote, this mindboggling observatory is crammed full of ‘scopes and star maps to help spotlight the island’s dark-sky wonders. The team also runs highly recommended stargazing tours. Area: Arrecife

3 LIT LIGHTHOUSES ON SYLT 1/ HÖRNUM You’ll deﬁnitely get the Hörnum for this chunky scarlet lifesaver, a ﬁrm friend of lonely seafarers for well over a century. Area: south Sylt

2/ ROTES KLIFF Photographers carry a torch for this petite local cutie – although she’s turned off now, others can’t hold a candle. Area: north Sylt

3/ KAMPEN Who says warning mariners can’t also be chic? This marvellous monochrome model is a beacon of exquisite taste. Area: central Sylt

W O R D S M I K E M AC E AC H E R A N , A N DY H I L L / P H OTO S © S Y LT M A R K E T I N G – M O N I C A G U M M , © S Y LT M A R K E T I N G – N A N N - N A U K E J A S C H I N S K I , T U R I S M O L A N Z A R OT E

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3/ THE FISHY Ditch your car in the parking lot near the marina and brave the sinuous path down to the beach, where a small ﬁshing port is still in operation. Calanque de Morgiou

6 COOL CALANQUES NEAR MARSEILLE 1/ THE CELEBRITY Calanques are narrow, steep inlets on the Med coast; this particular rock star is famous for its stellar climbing spots. Calanque de Sormiou

3 DIRTY MACARONI DIVES IN DUBROVNIK NEED OW a TO KN i’ is caron

a ‘Dirty m n lunch of Croatia nched in dre . pasta sauce meat

2/ THE BEAUTY Jutting up from a pretty pebble beach, this showoffy calanque (pictured) is the region’s most dramatic. Its precipitous cliffs offer worthy views

4/ THE SKINNY The longest and narrowest in the park, with tree-capped cliffs over turquoise waters that give it a verdant fjord feel. Calanque de Port Miou 5/ THE TINY Though it’s the smallest of the bunch, this is one of the most popular as it is easy to get to and has two sandy beaches. Calanque de Suguiton

3 ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS AROUND AGADIR 1/ CROCODILES Go nose-to-snout with over 300 toothsome river-dwelling grumps at Agadir’s family-friendly Crocopark, open all year. 8 Route National 2/ CAMELS Stand within spitting distance of the humped beasts of burden after hiking up to the Kasbah (which rocks, as you may have heard). Route Agadir Aufalla 3/ FLAMINGOES Get a load of these ﬂighty pinks and their feathered brethren at Agadir Birds Valley (below), which also has a petting zoo. Boulevard du 20 Aout

6/ THE PRICKLY Find this calanque via a secret path snaking off from Port Miou, where pine trees shade a quiet, swimmable beach. Calanque de Port Pin

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1/ KOPUN This Old Town resto serves a scrumptious version of the city’s fave pasta on a pretty terrace. 7 Poljana Ruđera Boškovića

2/ DALMATINO This joint does its own distinct verion: handrolled pasta, liberally sloshed with meat or seafood sauce. 15 Prijeko

Jonathan Bousﬁeld is a travel writer and author of The Rough Guide to Croatia. @jonnbousﬁeld

3/ LUCIN KANTUN This bright, airy canteen down a charming side street piles on the meat. Ul. od Sigurate 4a

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A greener cycle The next target in the fight against single-use plastic is sanitary products – Cocoro’s high-performance period pants are the eco-friendly option they call it the “Attenborough effect”. We’ve all been concerned about the proliferation of plastic for some time, but it was 2017’s Blue Planet II that truly opened our eyes. Since then, many of us have sought to find alternatives to single-use products, whether it’s carrying a reusable water bottle or fabric shopping bags. And it looks like menstrual products are next. Both tampons and pads contain plastic that can’t be recycled for sanitary reasons, resulting in an estimated 100 billion pieces of waste produced every year, each one taking centuries to degrade. It makes for gloomy reading, but a solution is here. “The current menstruation industry has rebranded periods as being overly medical,” says Cristina Torres, online sales director at Cocoro, a Barcelona-based company that sells absorbent knickers that can be worn during a period. “Products are deliberately made white and individually wrapped to give the impression that they’re

sterile – even though they’re not – and make women think that it’s the only way to deal with them.” Cocoro’s alternative is as simple as can be – after all, we’ve been wearing pants for our whole lives – but the use of highly technical anti-bacterial material means they’re just as hygienic as the current options. Their absorbent properties last for two years, after which they can then be used as regular underwear, cutting down on unnecessary waste even further. Torres accepts that the switch to reusable solutions can appear drastic, but the company is seeing more and more women making the swap. “It’s deﬁnitely a mental change,” she says. “As we were setting up Cocoro, we asked women if they were happy with their current pads, and most of them said they weren’t. The taboo nature of menstruation means we often feel like we can’t complain.” That time is coming to an end, though. After two successful crowd investment rounds and more than 25,000 pairs sold, Cocoro is leading a global movement of women who are demanding plastic-free periods.

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1/ THREE-SIDED FOOTBALL On the ﬁrst Sunday of every month, look out for an oddball squad of footballers (below) hooﬁng it around Fordham Park, New Cross. Their version of the sport has three goals, three teams and a hexagonal pitch. Sanford Street Overground: New Cross Gate

2/ LUCHA LIBRA WRESTLING Over 18s are invited to join the London School of Lucha Libra, which fuses the ﬂamboyance and gymnastics of Mexican wrestling with sturdy British traditional styles. Beginners welcome. 265 Poyser Street Tube: Bethnal Green 3/ LONGSWORD The London Longsword Academy hosts multiple

training sessions where any muggle can come and have a bash at this fast-paced, full-contact broom sport. Balham Hill Tube: Clapham South 5/ ROLLER SKIING Promising all the magic of cross-country skiing without waiting for snow, the squad at rollerski. co.uk host regular training courses by the Serpentine in Hyde Park, where you can get ﬁt, make friends and look mildly ridiculous (below). Rotten Row Tube: Hyde Park Corner

5 LEFTFIELD SPORTS CLUBS IN LONDON weekly classes at four locations around London, teaching assorted medieval and Renaissance weapon techniques (above), such as longsword, rapier, dagger and dussack – that last one is a Hapsburg-era cutlass,

since you ask. Cowper Street Tube: Old Street 4/ QUIDDITCH The London Unspeakables are a Quidditch side (top right) from south-west London who host weekly open

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1/ MONUMENT TO THE SOVIET ARMY Planned as a tribute to Russian forces who defended the city during WWII, this has become a magnet for vandals and wags, who’ve repainted it to resemble everything from Santa Claus to the band Pussy Riot. Tsar Osvoboditel Boulevard Metro: Vasil Levski Stadium

common man and toiling peasants. 7 ul Lachezar Stanchev Metro: Metrostation GM Dimitrov

2/ NATIONAL PALACE OF CULTURE International cultural bigwigs, like opera singer Andrea Bocelli and violinist Nigel Kennedy, performed at this 15,000sq m venue (right), which reﬂects the colossal ambition of Soviet Soﬁa. Boulevard Bulgaria Metro: Nationalen Dvorets na Kulturata

4/ THE BELLS MONUMENT For 1979’s UN Year of the Child, the daughter of a Soviet statesman commissioned this 37m structure with seven bells and featuring messages from kids (above). Park Kambanite Metro: Business Park Soﬁa

3/ MUSEUM OF SOCIALIST ART Goggle at giant pre1989 busts of Zhivkov, Lenin and Marx, plus renderings of the

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5/ RAKETA RAKIA Hungry for Soviet cuisine? Try this tongue-in-cheek spot, serving rakia (brandy) and ‘meat-andcream-heavy snacks’. 17 Boulevard Yanko Sakatov Bus: Teater Soﬁa

3 EXCELLENT ELEPHANTS IN CATANIA 1/ ON A FOUNTAIN Liotro is an elephant hewn by Romans out of volcanic basalt that now sits atop a fountain – it’s a local mascot. Piazza Duomo

2/ ON THE PITCH The Catania Elephants have male and female American football teams. You can visit their training ground and join in. 48 Via Seminara

3/ ON THE ROCKS Trendy Bohéme Mixology Bar makes a mean Liotro cocktail with two types of Elephant gin, cocoa bean bitters and rooibos. 27/29 Via Montesano

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1/ BÆJARINS BEZTU PYLSUR Bill Clinton, Charlie Sheen and at least two Kardashians have been snapped eating at this humble joint, established all the way back in 1937. 1 Tryggvagata 2/ PYLSA BISTRO Go for the vegan dogs and no-nonsense condiment selection, stay for the stellar G&Ts and lively conversation. 105 Laugavegur 3/ BJÓRGARÐURINN Easy-on-the-eye staff sling Instagrammable dogs (below) heaped with crisp toppings at this buzzy bar. Wash it down with pints of trendy craft ale and you’re basically a meatﬂuencer. 1 Þórunnartún

5 ROUSING BAROQUE WORKS IN VIENNA

1/ THE MIGHTY Entering Hofburg Imperial Palace, you’ll pass two battles raging in ornate fountains to your left and right. These works, called Mastery of the Sea and Mastery of the Land respectively, are odes to Austrian army and naval power. Michaelerplatz 2/ THE MULTITASK Climbing up the stairs of Vienna’s splendid Museum of Fine Arts, you’ll run into the Greek god Theseus strangling a centaur while swinging a huge club in his right hand. Talk about a two-hander. FROM OUR INSIDER 1 MariaTheresien-Platz Barbara Cacao is

a native Viennese who runs viennaunwrapped.com

3/ THE MARE Facing the former Imperial Stables (now Museumsquartier), a Roman and a German horse tamer each ﬂex their muscles while trying to calm down a rearing stallion. It’s a ‘stirruping’ sight. Maria-Theresien-Platz 4/ THE MUSCLE Cranking under the weight of the Sala Terrena’s ceiling at the

Upper Belvedere, four enormous Atlases act as the hall’s columns, just about holding up the space (above). Meanwhile, another Hercules enjoys a row with Antaeus, Poseidon’s half-giant son, in a quiet corner. Upper Belvedere 5/ THE METAPHOR Unusually brutal amid his

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1/ ČZERNÍN PALACE The current Czech Ministry of Foreign Affairs once belonged to the noble Černín clan. One of their brood, Countess Černín, was known for throwing lavish soirées. A few demons became fed up with her proﬂigate ways and danced her to death. 5 Loretánské nám Metro: Hradčanská

6 GHOSTLY HAUNTS IN PRAGUE on the bridge (above), warning dissidents to cool their heads. Karlův most Metro: Staroměstská

2/ PRAGUE CASTLE This 1,000-year-old castle (below) is considered the origin of defenestration (fancy word for chucking someone out a window), and many have gotten the boot – including two

Imperial governors and their secretary in 1618. Hradčany Metro: Malostranská 3/ CHURCH OF ST JAMES THE GREATER We’re going to go out

on a limb and declare this the creepiest place in Prague, mainly for the mummiﬁed arm that dangles from a meat hook on the church wall. This stray branch once belonged to a thief who tried to steal the church’s jewels and… We’ll let you ﬁll in the rest. 635/6 Malá Štupartská Metro: Náměstí Republiky 4/ ST AGNES CONVENT Keep a look out for a holy ghost near the nunnery in the Old Town (above). This poor sister was offed

6/ FAUST HOUSE This house of horrors (below) has played host to all sorts of ghoulish residents since the 16th century – including the protagonist of the classic German legend, who supposedly disappeared inside the mansion after making a deal with the devil. Nothing like a lick of Lucifer to get you in the Halloween mood. Na Slovanech Metro: Karlovo náměstí

by her own father, who forced her into nunhood after discovering her affair with a low-born lover. When their trysts continued, he murdered her in a ﬁt of hellish anger. Hopefully the chap didn’t make homicide into a habit. 17 U Milosrdných Metro: Můstek 5/ CHARLES BRIDGE In 1621, 27 revolutionaries who rose up against the ruling dynasty were executed. Their severed bonces were displayed

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3 FRUITY FEEDS IN FARO 1/ FROM THE SOURCE Nosh on plump ripe avocado and other fresh produce bought direct from growers that morning at Mercado Municipal de Faro. 52 Largo Doctor Francisco Sa Carneiro

1/ ADLIBRIS Online emporium turned real-life labyrinth for bookworms, with a good mix of Swedish and English reads. After your browse, head to the café FROM OUR (below) for killer INSIDER board games Alexandra Pereira tweets about travel and scrummy and lifestyle cardamom buns. @juliancraster1 15 Kungsgaten

2/ IN THE SAUCE Portugal’s legendary piri piri derives a lot of its zip from Algarve-grown lemons – devour it on chicken at Churrasqueira o Recife. Tv do Dispensário 3/ ON THE SAUCE Have a glass or three of aguardente de medronhos, a potent brandy made from the fruit of the wild-growing medronho tree, at friendly Nautic Bar. Doca de Faro

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2/ THE ENGLISH BOOKSHOP This is the spot (main pic) if your Swedish isn't above guide-book phrase level. Nab some good reads or bop along for the occasional literary breakfast. 22 Södermannagatan 3/ ETT HEM This listed 1910 building is now a debonair design hotel with a stacked library. Take in the beautiful talismans and artifacts from the

5 FIKA BOOKSTORES IN STOCKHOLM owner’s travels, pastry in one hand and a good book in the other. 2 Sköldungagatan 4/ ASPUDDENS Cute little neighbourhood bookstore where you can also caffeinate to your heart’s content and smash toasted

sandwiches. 130 Hägerstensvägen 5/ MODERNA MUSEET A chock-a-block shop of books, posters… and mugs to remind you of the great coffee and chokladbollar (chocolate balls) in the restaurant. 4 Exercisplan

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Brussels, just by the Grand Palace, this moodily lit New York-style jazz bar attracts big names and isn’t afraid to push the tempo on the weekends. 50 Rue des Pierres Area: Ville de Bruxelles

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+86+Ƀ+86+ HAUNTS IN SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA 1/ FOR LOVERS The curious properties of this circular banco acústico (whispering bench) mean you can listen in on couples discreetly whispering sweet nothings. Area: Alameda Park 2/ FOR DREAMERS The Carballeira de Santa Susana at Alameda Park is a tree-lined grove ideal for contemplative walks. Area: Alameda Park 3/ FOR NERDS The Library and Archive of Galicia (below) is a bookish retreat to browse and check out (geddit) architect Peter Eisenman’s futurist vision. Area: City of Culture

3 DISHY DESSERTS IN BERLIN FROM OUR INSIDER Faye Goldsmith is a food and culture writer based in Berlin @foodﬁnder_ berlin

5 JUMPING JAZZ JOINTS IN BRUSSELS

4/ SOUNDS First opened in 1986 as a pop/rock venue, Sounds founder Sergio Duvalloni soon decided to take the music a little more upscale and now it’s your go-to destination if you like your jazz world class. You can also grab an Italian dinner here. 28 Rue de la Tulipe Area: Matonge

1/ JAZZ STATION Inside a distinctive former railway building above a tunnel, this music-scene stalwart provides a platform for up-and-coming Belgian jazzers. Look out for art and photography exhibits as well. 193/a Chaussée de Louvain Area: Saint-Josse

2/ L’ARCHIDUC Smooth Brussels types have been rendezvousing here since 1937 and it’s still a swell place to soak up vibes (and cocktails). 6 Rue Antoine Dansaert Area: Dansaert 3/ THE MUSIC VILLAGE Situated bang in the heart of old-world

5/ MARNI This twangy watering hole (nudged in the Marni Theatre) hosts smooth live jazz from local players and touring acts, with a distinctly guitarleaning vibe. Just the place for a noteworthy date night. Check website for dates and details. 25 Rue de Vergnies Area: Ixelles

1/ THE DIVERSE ONE Coda Dessert, Dining & Bar has a pudding-only tasting menu comprising of just sweet stuff – and some killer cocktails. 47 Friedelstrasse

2/ THE EXCLUSIVE ONE After dancing all night at Berghain, grab a scoop of Berlin’s coolest ice cream. If you got in, you deﬁnitely deserve some sweet stuff. Am Wriezener Bahnhof

3/ THE VEGAN ONE Europe’s ﬁrst-ever vegan doughnut shop, Brammibal’s, opened in 2016 and became an instant Berlin favourite. 65 Danziger Strasse

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1/ COVA FUMADA This unassuming spot is the birthplace of Barcelona’s signature tapas dish – bombas are spicy pork and potato meatballs that are, quite frankly, rudely delicious. 56 Carrer del Baluard Metro: Barceloneta

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3/ BODEGA BALMES Tucked away in upmarket Sant Gervasi, this hipsterﬁed old tavern has become a hit with the local beerand-bomba chompers. 363 Carrer de Balmes Metro: Lesseps 4/ BARRACA Though they’re better known for their paellas, the team here make a mean bomba using a mix of veal and pork, and a touch of aioli alongside the spicy salsa.

7 BANGIN’ BOMBA BARS IN BARCELONA 1 Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta Metro: Barceloneta

5/ BOLERO BAR Bolero’s contemporary bombas are stuffed with beef and sobrasada (raw, cured sausage) as well as traditional pork and potato, making them doubly bombastic. 2 Carrer del Remei Metro: Les Corts 6/ TAPAS 24 Carles Abellán trained at

the venerable elBulli, so it’s no surprise his bombas pack a punch. The menu here is a creative tribute to traditional tapas. 269 Carrer de la Diputació Metro: Passeig de Gràcia

2/ HIEROGLYPHICS Selkhet is Egypt’s biggest papyrus gallery – on paper, anyway – with free tours, plus a shop with pretty alphabets of reeds and birds. Near: Hurghada airport 3/ THE PYRAMIDS The ancient Egyptians’ pointed demonstrations of their own eternal brilliance are reproduced here, to scale, at Sand City Hurghada. Near: Senzo Mall

7/ BAR DEL PI Overlooking the Gothic Quarter’s idyllic Plaça Sant Josep Oriol, this historic little bar serves some of the biggest bombas in Barcelona. 1 Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol Metro: Liceu

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FROM OUR 2/ LA BOMBETA INSIDER It’s named after Ben Holbrook is a travel writer and the dish itself, so blogger at driftwood it’s no surprise journals.com that this authentic tapas restaurant has these fried balls of ﬁre. 3 Carrer de la Maquinista Metro: Barceloneta

1/ THE GREAT SPHINX Planet Earth’s favourite chillaxing humanfaced lion is rendered in adorable miniature alongside other wee attractions at Mini Egypt (below), a theme park of shrunken national sights. Near: Sahl Hasheesh

What could you achieve with 60% more time? Regardless of your job or industry, do you ever have enough hours in the day to get everything done? If not, what’s the answer? Work more hours or work smarter? We prefer the second option. Automating as much as possible reduces the number of decisions and tasks you have to deal with throughout the day. That can help you get more done with less stress. 1. IT CAN FREE UP 60-70% OF YOUR DBAS’ TIME

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Discount Code: EJ1910

This discount code entitles you to a 50% discount on a new purchase of an Unlimited, Ecommerce, Grow or Start Package. The discount is not available for existing Jimdo subscriptions or renewals and can only be used once per purchase. The discount can be redeemed until the 31.12.2019 and the Jimdo terms and conditions of service apply. Jimdo GmbH, Stresemannstr 375, 22761 Hamburg, Germany www.jimdo.com

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Step 3:

Follow the steps, choose your package and enter your discount code.

Step 3:

Follow the steps, choose your package and enter your discount code.

Discount Code: EJ1910

Terms and Conditions: This discount code entitles you to a 50% discount on a new purchase of an Unlimited, Ecommerce, Grow or Start Package. The discount is not available

for existing Jimdo subscriptions or renewals and can only be used once per

purchase. The discount can be redeemed until the 31.12.2019 and the Jimdo

terms and conditions of service apply.

purchase. The discount can be redeemed until the 31.12.2019 and the Jimdo terms and conditions of service apply.

Jimdo GmbH, Stresemannstr 375, 22761 Hamburg, Germany. www.jimdo.com

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science demonstrations kids can participate in at the House of Experiments, the one guaranteed to get people to ﬂex hardest is the surprisingly precise arm-wrestling simulator. 39 Trubarjeva cesta Near: Dragon Bridge

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W O R D S A N D Y H I L L / P H O T O S B O B O , G E T T Y I M A G E S , T O M AT O I N D U S T R I A L M U S E U M – D N O M I K O S , © V I L L E D E LY O N

1/ AT THE FACTORY Did you know Santorini once had a tomatopaste factory? Now it’s the Tomato Industrial Museum (below), run by experts who’ve pored over historic sauces. Area: Vlychada Beach 2/ IN THE BALLS Discover tomatokeftedes – tomato balls, fried with red onion, fresh basil and chopped spearmint – at family-friendly Penelope’s restaurant. Area: Pyrgos 3/ WITH MARY Catch up with your old pal Bloody Mary, mixed with local sweet cherry tomatoes in PK Cocktail Bar, as the sun sets just over yonder. Area: Thera

3 LABYRINTHS IN LYON

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4/ THE CHRONIC The city’s colourful history is presented by costumed actors in the novel Ljubljana Castle Time Machine, an hourlong tour all around the castle. This one needs pre-booking. Castle Info Centre, 1 Grajska planota Near: Ljubljana Castle

1/ THE CLASSICS Ponder over optical paradoxes at the House of Illusions, with plenty of familiar puzzles, not to mention an inﬁnity disco. 13 Kongresni trg Near: University of Ljubljana

this handsome cyanometer (above), which changes colour to mimic the present blueness of the sky, and doubles as an indicator of pollution levels. 41 Slovenska cesta Near: Tivoli Park

2/ THE CAMOUFLAGED Local sculptor Martin Bricelj Baraga installed

3/ THE CLASPED Among the dozens of easy-to-grasp, hands-on

5/ THE QUEUE Don’t be disheartened when you ﬁnd a long line for the loos at the Kino Šiška Centre for Urban Culture. It’s a conceptual art piece depicting 70 key ﬁgures from the past three decades of urban culture. 3 Trg prekomorskih brigad Near: Peter Držaj Hospital

1/ UNDER BUILDINGS Lyon is crisscrossed by hundreds of traboules – secret passages, once used by silk weavers to meet and avoid the rain. Area: various locations

2/ UNDER FOLIAGE The kitschy, sprawling Jardin Rosa Mir was planted by bricklaying artisan Jules Senis after beating cancer. Area: 4th arrondissement

3/ UNDER WATER If you love immersive escape games then A Maze In Game’s clever submarine setup is worth assembling your crew for. Area: St Michel-Mairie

Glor ia’s stall helps her pay for her children’s education

ov ide jobs Vor Thoun’s farm will pr for her local community

Raised: £265.00 Needed: £622.10

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1/ ON THE ROOF Rise above it all with a tall glass of local ﬁzz at sophisticated Skyline Rooftop Bar (below), a former grain mill that’s now a posh hotel. Time it just right to catch the perfect Venetian sunset. 810 Guidecca Area: Guidecca

2/ WITH THE COOL KIDS Students from the University just up the road love Cafe Noir for its boho vibe, banging soundtrack, but (mostly, let’s face it) for its array of cheap ﬁzz by the glass. Sestiere Dorsoduro Area: San Polo 3/ IN A BELLINI This peachy cocktail is available all over the world, but when in Venice

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you may as well sample one at its birthplace, Harry’s Bar (below). 1323 Calle Vallaresso Area: San Marco

4/ AT A GIG Osteria da Filo hosts regular live music nights (on Wednesdays). Grab a couch and a glass of something effervescent, then sink back as those sweet tunes ﬁll your ears. Rio Tera Primo Area: Santa Croce

5 WAYS TO SINK PROSECCO IN VENICE

1/ FOR MYSTERY At low water, the remains of a drowned village are visible at Injebreck Reservoir, popular with brown-trout ﬁshermen. Near: West Baldwin

2/ FOR SCENERY Sulby Reservoir is the largest and deepest on the island, in the shadow of its only mountain, the brooding Snaefell. Near: Tholt y Will Glen

5/ LIKE AN HEIRESS For a taste of the high life, sip the ﬁzz on antique furniture in the marblelined Bar Longhi (left) in the luxury Gritti Palace Hotel. Make it last though – this joint ain’t cheap. Campiello Traghetto Area: San Marco

3/ FOR ACCESSIBILITY The most southerly reservoir, Cringle, has a ramp-accessible ﬁshing platform for wheelchairs. Near: South Barrule Plantation

4/ MACKINTOSH AT THE WILLOW The notorious CRM designed this posho tearoom at the turn of the 20th and many of its original features – including those swish glass panels (left) – remain intact. Area: Glasgow Central

1/ SCOTLAND STREET SCHOOL MUSEUM The last Glaswegian gaff built by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, this former school (above) is the fullest expression of the pioneering architect’s career and contains the story of 100 years of Scottish education. Area: Kinning Park

5/ QUEEN’S CROSS CHURCH Mackintosh dipped his toes into the piety pool but once and the result is this magnificent church inflected with his characteristic Gothic flair. Area: Maryhill 6/ MACKINTOSH BUILDING AT THE GLASGOW SCHOOL OF ART The architect’s eponymous building was ravaged twice by fire, in 2014 and 2018. It’s currently being restored, though, so look out for the return of the Mack. Area: Glasgow Central

2/ THE LIGHTHOUSE Climb up the helical staircase inside this former newspaper HQ (Mackintosh’s ﬁrst public commission, below), now Scotland’s Centre for Design and Architecture. Area: Merchant City

3/ HOUSE FOR AN ART LOVER Mackintosh may have lost the competition he submitted his design to in 1901, but he got his payback in 1996, when this pad was constructed based on his sketches. Area: Craigton

7 MACKINTOSH MASTERPIECES IN GLASGOW

7/ HILL HOUSE Mackintosh and his wife Margaret designed every detail of this unique abode (below), just 50 minutes by car from Glasgow. Area: Helensburgh

W O R D S J E S S I C A P R U PA S / P H O TO S T H E L I G H T H O U S E , G L A S G O W M U S E U M S © A L A N M C AT E E R , © N AT I O N A L T R U S T F O R S C O T L A N D , © T H E W I L LO W T E A R O O M S T R U S T – RACHEL KEENAN

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ķH /RZGRZQ N E WS AN D S TO R I E S FRO M B E H I N D T H E S C E N E S AT

Tangier… has a funky old medina AT THE CROSSROAD of continents, where the Atlantic and Med meet, this ancient city has long been a fulcrum for trade. And, while its walled interior buzzes with commerce, it’s also long been a honeytrap for artists as diverse as Henri Matisse and the Rolling Stones. Satisfaction guaranteed.

Booking recommended P H OTOS G E T T Y I M AG E S

NEW DESTINATIONS ALERT! LET US WHISK YOU AWAY TO THESE THREE EXCITING SPOTS…

Marsa Alam… is making a splash

Tirana… is the new kid on the bloc

DIVERS CHERISH THIS Red Sea resort for its crystal waters and myriad marine species. Among its reefs and lagoons you’ll encounter excitable dolphins, serene turtles and chillaxed dugongs. With the right guide and a keen lens, you could even take photos of the rare crocodile ﬁsh – talk about a cool holiday snap.

SINCE ALBANIA ONLY threw off the yoke of communist oppression fairly recently, it’s mostly kept off the tourist trail. Not for long. Its beaches rival anything in nearby Italy or Greece, but for the most rewarding adventures, delve into the capital Tirana, a thriving hub with as rich and wild a past – and present – as you’ll ﬁnd anywhere.

Our best shot THANKS TO OUR PASSENGERS’ GENEROUS SUPPORT, OUR FRIENDS AT UNICEF ARE MAKING HUGE STRIDES TO TACKLE THE SCOURGE OF POLIO

t doesn’t take a lot, we reckon, to make a massive difference. When you’re on a trip abroad, that can apply to all sorts of scenarios. From suncream to hot sauce, a little really does go a long way. But it also applies to the loose change in your pockets. Since 2012, we’ve been teaming up with UNICEF to help their vital work ﬁghting polio.

What is polio?

THE FIGHT AGAINST POLIO IN NUMBERS 350,000 polio cases in 1988

polio cases in 2018

million kids vaccinated by UNICEF with easyJet’s help

Polio is a highly contagious, incurable disease that can cause paralysis and death. Heartbreakingly, polio mostly affects children under 10.

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What’s UNICEF’s role?

For more than three decades, UNICEF has been a leading partner in the Global Polio Eradication

million raised so far by easyJet customers for UNICEF

years since Nigeria’s last reported case

Initiative, which has sought to eliminate the disease worldwide once and for all. When the initiative started in 1988, polio was paralysing thousands of children every single day, but thanks to a simple, cost-effective and easily administered vaccine – a triumph of modern medicine – this terrible disease has now been largely tamed. Once rampant in 125 countries, today polio is only endemic in three, and of those three, Nigeria just marked its third year without a single recorded case of the disease. UNICEF’s global reach and wealth of expertise enables the organisation to tackle outbreaks rapidly and effectively, and help vulnerable kids get their vaccinations as quickly as possible, helping millions of children each year in over 70 countries.

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How do easyJet passengers help?

CHANGE WORKS easyJet has been supporting UNICEF’s work since 2012

All of this crucial work is supported by you, through UNICEF and easyJet’s Change for Good partnership. So far, together, we’ve raised an astonishing £13 million. The difference this makes is astounding. The Change for Good initiative has helped vaccinate more than 30 million children against polio – and 5.4 million mothers and babies have also received essential vaccinations. Keep an eye out for our special onboard collections on World Polio Day, 24 October. On every easyJet ﬂight, cabin crew will accept anything you can spare, to help UNICEF in its ﬁnal push to eradicate polio in the not-too-distant future. Because a little really can go a very long way. unicef.org.uk

In praise of… early morning flights Time is the most precious commodity we have, so let’s spend it wisely. Does that mean we should sacrifice a lie-in to hop on that dawn flight? You bet it does. Nobody likes being turfed out of bed at crazy o’clock – but the early bird, up in the wee hours, free from the din of city traffic and the drag factor of faff-prone folk, really does breakfast on that proverbial worm. Sleep is all very well, but here’s to those who rise and shine.

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ASK THE PILOT

What’s the best easyJet route to f ly? I’VE BEEN WITH easyJet for around 16 years, having worked first as cabin crew and various roles in our headquarters before having the chance to study and then fly as a pilot. We are very fortunate at Luton to be able to fly a range of routes, from short hops over to Jersey to flying as far as Tel Aviv. One of my favourite places to fly into must be Geneva. On a

clear day, the views are spectacular and we are very lucky to see some incredible sights from our ‘office window’. Flying from Europe into Luton, our flight path often takes us right over the top of London and the view of that at night is especially impressive. Wherever you’re going today, I hope you have a good flight – and enjoy the view.

Joel Storry, First Ofﬁcer, Luton

HAVE A QUERY FOR ONE OF OUR PILOTS? Send your questions to askapilot@ink-global.com

P L AN E S P E AK I N G OUR AIRCRAFT ARE AMONG THE YOUNGEST IN THE WORLD, WITH AN AVERAGE AGE OF 6.9 YEARS

SEATING CAPACITY

NUMBER OF CREW

ENGINE TYPE

CRUISING SPEED

RANGE OF AIRCRAFT

NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT

156

2 pilots and 4 cabin crew

CFM56-5B

520mph

1,711 miles

125

AIRBUS A320CEO

180/186

2 pilots and 4 cabin crew

CFM56-5B

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2,445 miles

169

AIRBUS A320NEO

186

2 pilots and 4 cabin crew

CFMLEAP-1A

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2,520 miles

AIRBUS A321NEO

235

2 pilots and 5 cabin crew

CFMLEAP1A32

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4,598 miles

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OUR AWARDS – WE’RE LEADING THE WAY Business Travel Awards 2018 – Best Short Haul Airline; Italian Mission Awards 2017 – Miglior Compagnia Aerea per il Business Travel, Area EMEA; Professional Clothing Awards 2017 – Best Bespoke Design

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EASYJET HOLIDAYS TERMS AND CONDITIONS Prices are correct as of September 2019 and designed to give you a guide to holiday prices. For the latest prices and offers, visit easyJet.com/holidays. All prices are per person and include ﬂights and accommodation, based on two people sharing unless otherwise stated, but exclude transfers and baggage. Some payment methods attract a handling fee. Similar holidays originating from other easyJet departure airports are available by visiting: easyJet.com/holidays and then selecting the correct holiday ﬂag for the country you would like to use. Holidays are provided by Hotelopia SLU trading as easyJet holidays.

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Nervous flyer? Do you suffer from a fear of flying, or perhaps in-air claustrophobia or a fear of heights? Is it putting you off flying altogether? Our Fearless Flyer course has over a 95% success rate and is hosted by phobia expert Lawrence Leyton, from C4’s Fear of Flying show, along with a senior easyJet Captain. The professionals will talk to you about the psychology of fear and what goes on at every stage of a flight. It’s available across the UK and online in various languages at fearlessflyer.easyJet. com Upcoming UK courses: Belfast Saturday 12 Oct. Manchester Saturday 26 Oct & Sunday 27 Oct. Bristol Saturday 2 Nov & Sunday 3 Nov. Newcastle Saturday 9 Nov. Edinburgh Saturday 16 Nov. Birmingham Saturday 23 Nov & Sunday 24 Nov. London Luton Saturday 30 Nov. London Gatwick Sunday 1 Dec.

Change for the better This autumn we’re teaming up again with Breast Cancer Now and Prostate Cancer UK to help fund research and make lifesaving journeys together This time last year, we asked easyJet passengers to drop as much spare change as they could into our on-board collection boxes and bags, to raise funds to combat the UK’s two most common cancers. And you did us proud. Thanks to your generous support, we managed to raise over £430,000 for leading charities Breast Cancer Now and Prostate Cancer UK. So this year, we’re doing it again – and with your help, we reckon we can go even higher. Right now, over a million people in the UK live with either breast or prostate cancer, both of which can be utterly devastating, not just for the person diagnosed, but for their friends and families too. Both causes are particularly close to our hearts, as a great many of our cabin crew have personally experienced these diseases or have loved ones who have been affected. So please chip in as much change as you can – any currency will do – from 1 October to 17 November. The money you give will fund vital research and help discover ways to prevent, detect and better treat breast and prostate cancer.

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Discover a hidden gem

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Sardinian sights

WHETHER YOU’RE LOOKING FOR A SHORT BREAK TO A WARMER CLIME OR A LONGER BEACH HOLIDAY, ALGHERO IS YOUR GO-TO NESTLED IN NORTH Western Sardinia is the picture-postcard town of Alghero, the perfect combination of culture, architecture and history. With its medieval churches, stunning seafront and emerald green seas, you’re in luck, as this fairly unknown gem is only a short ﬂight away from London Luton. Despite being located on an Italian island, you’ll really feel the Spanish inﬂuences throughout Alghero. Having been commanded by the Spanish for four centuries in the Middle Ages, the distinct Spanish architecture and culture still run throughout the town and the dominant language remains

Catalan to this day. The atmospheric old town is surrounded by vast city walls, ﬁlled with mazes of narrow lanes and cobbled piazzas to lose yourself in, or maybe you might just ﬁnd yourself… in the shops! The highquality traditional restaurants and bars bring Alghero’s old town to life both day and night, making it ideal for a weekend escape or a relaxing week in the sun. Alghero’s 45,000 inhabitants are proud of their long history and of the culture they’ve preserved. Prepare to be welcomed with open arms by locals and returning holiday makers alike in this friendly Sardinian town.

Neptune’s Grotto Feeling adventurous? Well then a visit to the Neptune Caves is an absolute must. Located within the Capo Caccia peninsula, you can head there by boat from the port of Alghero – or the more active might prefer tackling the 656 steps from the Capo Caccia point. The caves are over 2 million years old and showcase some incredible rock formations; it’s an absolute must-see for nature lovers.

Churches The 17th-century medieval churches are well preserved and add to the stunning beauty of Alghero. The most well-known is the Chiesa di San Michele, famous for its iconic tiled dome. Located in the old town, it’s a real marvel of Gothic-era architecture. Make sure to also check out Chiesa di San Francesco and Cattedrale di Santa Maria, which are within walking distance of San Michele.

P H OTOS G E T T Y I M AG E S

Beaches Look no further for enchanting scenery and unspoiled nature. The most popular beach is the Lido San Giovanni, which is located next to the old town. If it’s tranquillity you’re after, head to the north of the island to Maria Pia beach for white sand dunes and crystal clear waters. Continue further north to discover the idyllic coves of Le Bombarde beach. If you fancy a break from sunbathing, why not hire kayaks, pedal boats or even stand-up paddleboards, if you’re feeling brave enough.

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Geen vakantiedagen? Geen probleem! BIJ EASYJET HEB JE KEUZE UIT BESTEMMINGEN DIE ZICH GOED LENEN VOOR WEEKENDTRIPS

Wenen

Ook een goed idee… Genève De meesten kennen Genève dankzij de Verenigde Naties. Maar niet veel mensen zijn er geweest. En dat is zonde. Het decor van deze stad is op zijn minst gezegd imponerend. Aan het meer én omringd door bergen. Dat maakt deze bestemming geschikt voor stadsbezoek én natuuractiviteiten. Vrijdag vliegen we vanaf Amsterdam op diverse tijden naar Genève. En zondag op diverse weer terug.

Napels Op de geboortegrond van pizza heb je eigenlijk maar één echte missie: pizza! Sterker nog: de originele bereidingswijze heeft een beschermde UNESCO status. Net als het centrum van de stad. Ook in de omgeving is er genoeg te doen. De Vesuvius en Pompeï liggen om de hoek. Even op en neer naar Napels? Vlieg op vrijdag heen en zondag weer terug. Er zijn diverse vluchtmogelijkheden om uit te kiezen.

P H OTOS G E T T Y I M AG E S

EEN TRIP NAAR Wenen is geen citytrip. Het is een bezoek aan een schatkamer. Eén die tot de nok is gevuld met cultuur. Om te beginnen: deze stad ademt opera. De staatsopera wordt dan ook gezien als één van de beste in de wereld. Voor liefhebbers van “modernere” muziek vindt in oktober Waves Vienna festival plaats en in november het Jazzﬂoor Festival. Wenen kent een rijke geschiedenis met een hoofdrol voor de Habsburgers. Hun zomer- en winterpaleis zijn open voor rondleidingen en ademen geschiedenis. Pracht, praal en historisch bewustzijn overvallen je hier. Sowieso aan paleizen geen gebrek. Velen huisvesten nu musea. En ook daar zijn er nogal wat van. Het Kunsthistorische Museum, slot Belvedere en het Natuurhistorisch museum behoren tot de belangrijkste en meest bezochte ter wereld. Trouwens… het hoeft allemaal niet zo hoogdravend. De apfelstrudel en Wiener schnitzel zijn hier evengoed cultureel erfgoed. Dus geniet! Voor een weekendje Wenen vlieg je op vrijdag heen lig je zondagavond gewoon weer in je eigen bed.

PROMOTION

A history of Oxford Road in three bands

Joy Division The Sex Pistols played at the Lesser Free Trade Hall in 1976, just oﬀ Oxford Road. Who were in attendance? Bernard Sumner and Peter Hook who were later inspired to form Joy Division.

Manchester, so much to answer for

The Smiths Formed in 1982, frontman Morrissey waved his gladioli at gig venues just oﬀ Oxford Road, including The Ritz and the now-defunct Rafters nightclub.

Immerse yourself in the city’s unrivalled music heritage at the new Staybridge Suites hotel manchester and music go hand in hand. The list of inﬂuential acts that hail from the area is long and ever-expanding, from early rock‘n’rollers The Hollies and Herman’s Hermits, and ‘Madchester’ icons Stone Roses and Happy Mondays, right up to The 1975 and Bugzy Malone today. Just south of the city centre, the Oxford Road Corridor and its surrounding venues were where many of these icons cut their teeth, and you can now celebrate this rich history with a stay in the new Staybridge Suites Manchester – Oxford Road. The 18-ﬂoor hotel has 116 sizable studio and one-bedroom suites with panoramic views across the city. Available for one night right up to an extended stay, each option has a fully equipped kitchen, free Wi-Fi, access to a state-of-the-art gym and complimentary laundry services. Other facilities include The Pantry grocery store, where you can get essentials 24 hours a day,

a stylish space for business meetings called The Den and a central hub where breakfast is served up every morning. If you don’t fancy cooking, you can dine at Crowne Plaza’s Laureate restaurant on the ground ﬂoor or kick back with bar snacks and a local craft beer in the onsite Graduate Bar. And if you visit one of the venues along the adjoining Oxford Road, who knows which stars you’ll catch before they hit the big time? 30 Higher Chatham St, M15 6ED staybridge.com/ manchesteroxfr

Oasis A short swagger away from Oxford Road station is the former site of the Boardwalk, where Oasis rehearsed in the basement and played their ﬁrst show.

BISTRO

G R E AT VA LU E

Hot Drink Deal A hot drink and a mufﬁn or brownie

£4 /4,50€

SAVE £1 / 1,50€

Please see our Bistro Brochure for Hot Drinks available as part of this deal.

ķH /RZGRZQ Languages ķH /R

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Avventure attorno a Aqaba

Per sognare, c’è Marrakech!

PHOTOS JOHNNY G REIG

TRA PALAZZI E GIARDINI IN UNA CITTÀ DA MILLE E UNA NOTTE SEGUIRE SOLO L’IMMAGINAZONE, uscire dagli schemi… Uno dei lati belli di viaggiare, è che libera anche la fantasia! E noi siamo pronti ad accompagnarti in una città che ci riesce alla grande, con il suo fascino arabeggiante e il deserto alle spalle. Parliamo di Marrakech, che incanta fin da subito con le sue case rosse e ocra fiancheggiate da palme ed aranci. Piazza Jamaa el Fna è un must se cerchi atmosfere magiche: incontrerai chiromanti e incantatori di serpenti, e, se ti trattieni fino a sera, potrai ballare

al ritmo di antiche danze africane e ascoltare leggende da tutto il continente. Il palazzo El Badi, poi, ti farà sentire come in una reggia de Le Mille E Una Notte, con le sue sale lussuose e i giardini punteggiati di piscine. E il palazzo Bahia completerà l’opera con stanze totalmente coperte di mosaici. Non perderti gli artigiani che lavorano ancora a mano, il richiamo serale del muezzin, il proﬁlo delle torri dei minareti al tramonto. Vola appena puoi da Venezia a Marrakech. Prenota subito!

Se ami le forti emozioni, vola ad Aqaba! Incastonata tra il Wadi Rum e il Mar Rosso, è l’ideale per un po’ di adrenalina. Parti con un’escursione a dorso di cammello. Esplorerai il deserto insieme ai beduini, ti arrampicherai su ponti di pietra e attraverserai canyon panoramici. Oppure, gettati tra le onde! Incontra gli squali balena, sﬁda i ﬂutti con il surf, scopri i trucchi dello sci nautico. Vola da Malpensa. L’avventura ti aspetta!

MIX & MATCH

Choose any two for £35/44€ or £19/24,50€ each

Offer applies to selected fragrances only. Further details on page 16 and 17 of the Boutique brochure. Offer valid until 13th November 2019.

ķH /RZGRZQ Languages ķH /R

3 planes para vivir Berlín

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No te lo pierdas…

AUNQUE DESCUBRIR EL PASADO Y DISFRUTAR DEL PRESENTE DE BERLÍN EN POCOS DÍAS ES IMPOSIBLE, TE PROPONEMOS 5 PLANES INFALIBLES PARA EXPLOTAR MUCHOS DE SUS RECORRE LA HISTORIA Desde el monumento del Holocausto hasta el Checkpoint Charlie, el paso fronterizo más famoso, o el Muro de Berlín, convertido en una galería de arte urbano, la capital alemana ofrece auténticas clases de historia. ADMIRA LUCES, ARTE Y ARQUITECTURA Si planeas visitar Berlín entre el 11 y el 20 de octubre, ¡estás de suerte! Durante el Festival de Luces, artistas nacionales e

internacionales reflejan su arte en los espacios y edificios más emblemáticos de la ciudad bajo la temática de libertad. EXPLORA LA ISLA DE LOS MUSEOS Escoger entre todos los museos de Berlín puede ser un quebradero de cabeza, por lo que dirigirse directamente a la Isla de los Museos, que alberga el famoso Museo del Pérgamo con la gran Puerta de Babilonia, simplifica mucho las cosas. No lo dudes, y reserva ya tu vuelo.

La faceta más musical de París ¡Oh là là! A la majestuosidad y magia que tiene París durante todo el año podemos sumarle una tercera ‘M’ de música que nos da la excusa perfecta para escaparse a la capital francesa a ﬁnales de octubre. Si eres un apasionado de la música alternativa, el Pitchfork Music Festival (31 de octubre - 2 de noviembre) te espera para saltar al ritmo de la música internacional más indie. ¡Empieza a buscar tu acompañante y dedica unos días a perderte entre los monumentos y museos de la ciudad antes de despedir París por todo lo alto!

PHOTOS G E T T Y IMAG ES

Una ciudad cargada de historia Historia, cultura y gastronomía son los atributos que hoy deﬁnen la ciudad más poblada del sur de Italia: Nápoles. Una urbe con espíritu y clima mediterráneo que se convierten en compañeros de viaje perfectos en una visita a la antigua ciudad de Pompeya, a la que se puede llegar en apenas 30 minutos; la Piazza del Plebiscito, que reúne varios de los monumentos más importantes en el corazón de la ciudad; la Galleria Umberto I o Spaccanapoli, donde observar cómo sucede el día a día de los napolitanos. Pero si la cosa va de sentirse un auténtico local, ¡directos a por una pizza Margherita! Una apuesta segura para todos los públicos.

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NEU: Marokko & Ägypten AB OKTOBER FLIEGEN wir ganzjährig bis zu dreimal pro Woche ab Basel-Freiburg an die marokkanische Atlantikküste nach Agadir, wo orientalisches Basarleben, einige der besten Surfspots sowie aufregende Ausﬂüge ins Atlas-Gebirge und zu den Nomaden auf Dich warten. Zudem starten wir unsere neue Winterstrecke nach Hurghada ans Rote Meer. Der ägyptische Ferienort, der sich mit weissen Sandstränden am türkisblauen Meer entlang erstreckt, ist mit seiner bunten Unterwasserwelt und den berühmten Korallenriffen ein echtes Paradies für Taucher. Buche schon jetzt Deine Winterﬂüge in die Sonne auf easyJet.com!

PHOTOS G E T T Y IMAG ES

Nouveau: Maroc & Albanie GENÈVE ENRICHIT SON réseau de deux nouvelles destinations disponibles toute l’année ! À partir du 28 novembre, nous volerons jusqu’à trois fois par semaine en direction de la capitale albanaise Tirana, près de la côte adriatique. À vous les plages idylliques ! De plus, dès le 15 décembre, cap sur Agadir jusqu’à deux fois par semaine. La baie marocaine vous offre une inﬁnité de bazars orientaux, mais aussi des spots de surf et des excursions dans le désert. Réservez vos vols pour Agadir et Tirana sur easyJet.com !

Jetzt buchen / Réservez maintenant… Frühling & Sommer 2020 Damit Du Dich schon jetzt auf Deinen nächsten Sommerurlaub freuen kannst, ist unser Flugplan für Frühling und Sommer 2020 bereits auf easyJet.com verfügbar! Ob Städtetrip über die Feiertage im Mai und Juni oder Strandurlaub mit der Familie an Ostern oder in den grossen Ferien – buche frühzeitig Deine Flüge zu unseren beliebtesten Reisezielen, um die beste Auswahl an Flügen und Preisen zu haben.

Printemps & été 2020 Après l’été, c’est toujours l’été! Alors que vous songez déjà à vos prochaines vacances, les vols pour le printemps et l’été 2020 sont déjà disponibles sur easyJet.com! Qu’il s’agisse d’un city trip, d’une parenthèse printanière pour s’échauffer avant l’été, ou de vacances à la plage en famille à Pâques ou pendant la grande pause estivale, réservez vite vos vols aﬁn d’obtenir le meilleur choix de vols et de prix.

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Madeira – die Blumeninsel

ENTDECKE DIE FÜNF GRÖSSTEN INSELN AB BERLIN FRÜHLINGSTEMPERATUREN UND SONNE auch im Winter, endlose Strandspaziergänge und atemberaubende Landschaften – auf den Kanarischen Inseln kannst dem grauen Winter entﬂiehen und einfach mal die Seele baumeln lassen. Ab dem 5. November starten wir wieder ab BerlinSchönefeld auf die Ferieninsel Gran Canaria, wo goldfarbene Sandstrände, wie die Playa del Inglés und die Dünenlandschaften von Maspalomas, zum Sonnenbaden einladen und Du traumhafte Wanderwege, spektakuläre Landschaften, Pinien- und Lorbeerwälder sowie beschauliche Berg- und Höhlendörfer entdecken kannst. Der malerische Hafenort Puerto de Mogán, das „Venedig von Gran

Canaria“, verzaubert mit liebevoll restaurierten, kleinen Häusern, idyllischen Gassen, romantischen Brücken und Kanälen. Die paradiesischen Strände und extravaganten Lavalandschaften auf Lanzarote und dem Surfparadies Fuerteventura sind ideal für Ruhesuchende und Wassersportler gleichermaßen. Oder erkunde auf Teneriffa den Teide Nationalpark, mit dem höchsten Gipfel Spaniens, sowie die Altstadt von La Laguna und erlebe auf La Palma geheimnisvolle Urwälder und einen der schönsten Sternenhimmel der Welt! Ob Strand- oder Aktivurlaub – buche Deine Flüge ab Berlin nach Fuerteventura, Lanzarote, Teneriffa, La Palma und Gran Canaria auf easyJet.com!

PHOTOS G E T T Y IMAG ES

Wintersonne auf den Kanaren

Ihren blumigen Spitznamen verdankt die portugiesische Atlantikinsel ihrer exotischen Artenvielfalt und der üppigen Schönheit, die vor allem Aktivurlauber anzieht. Ob Wandern im „Feenwald“ von Fanal im größten Lorbeerwald der Welt oder zu den 25 Wasserfällen von Rabacal, Radfahren, Tauchen, Surfen, Kiten oder Relaxen am Strand – genieße die Wintersonne auf Madeira! Ab dem 2. November starten wir wieder ab BerlinTegel nach Funchal auf Madeira!

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Prenez vos nouveaux quartiers d’hiver DÉCOUVREZ NOS NOUVELLES DESTINATIONS OÙ PASSER VOS WEEK-ENDS CET HIVER.

Ne perdez pas votre bronzage Si tout le monde prépare ses vacances au ski, vous préparez les vôtres au soleil. Et ça, c’est grâce à deux nouvelles destinations : Tel Aviv au départ de Toulouse et Tenerife au départ de Bordeaux. La première vous offrira un savoureux mélange d’art contemporain, de soirées endiablées et de gastronomie israélienne, tandis que la seconde vous apportera le calme d’une île paradisiaque et la beauté de ses paysages volcaniques. Dans les deux cas,

P H OTOS G E T T Y I M AG E S

VOUS HÉSITEZ ENTRE La Méditerranée et l’Atlantique ? Faites les deux en partant à Tanger et proﬁtez de sa somptueuse baie reliant la mer à l’océan. Pendant cette balade au grand air marin, vous apprécierez notamment le panorama offert par le Cap Spartel, la beauté des mythiques grottes d’Hercule et la réserve naturelle qui borde la côte. Si c’est plutôt la ville qui vous attire, vous pourrez toujours déambuler dans sa médina colorée, un passage obligé lors de votre visite. Maintenant, cap vers un autre incontournable de la côte marocaine : Agadir. Réputée comme étant la station balnéaire par excellence, cette ville recèle de trésors à découvrir. Commencez par le Souk El Had et son ambiance incroyable, puis admirez la fameuse Mosquée Mohamed V, avant de vous orienter vers Agadir Oufella, un panorama haut-perché qui vaut le détour. Finalement, optez pour le végétal Parc de Souss-Massa ou pour un cocktail sur la plage. Retrouvez dès ﬁn octobre Tanger au départ de Nantes, Nice et Lyon ; et Agadir au départ de Nantes, Nice et Toulouse.

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easyJet will support any local authority with the prosecution of anyone who threatens the safety of our crew, passengers or aircraft. S AF E T Y E Q U I P M E N T It is an offence to tamper with or remove any safety equipment from this aircraft, including life jackets. H A N D B AG G AG E Please ensure your hand baggage remains safely stowed for take-off and landing, and at any time as instructed by the crew. Place small bags under the seat in front of you (unless you’re seated in an emergency row); larger items must go in overhead lockers. Take care when opening the overhead lockers, as falling items may cause injury. S H A R P S B OX E S Hypodermic needles are permitted on board for medical use only and should always be disposed of in a sharps box. If you need to dispose of any sharp item, please contact the cabin crew.

E LEC TRON IC DEVIC E S You can use portable electronic devices on board, provided they are in ‘ﬂight’ mode. This must be enabled before the aircraft doors are closed. Devices such as laptops, DVD players and Bluetooth accessories must be safely stowed for take-off and landing. Headphones are permitted, though we recommend you remove these during the safety brieﬁng. If you misplace one of your electronic devices, or if one of them gets damaged, overheats, produces smoke, or falls into the seat structure, please call a member of cabin crew for immediate assistance. Any power banks or items containing power banks, such as ‘Smart Bags’, must be carried in the aircraft cabin with the power bank disconnected. Ensure these are monitored when charging. A P P R OV E D F O R U S E O N B OA R D • mobile phones • smartphones • laptops • notebook computers • tablet computers • e-readers • noise-cancelling headphones • portable DVD/CD players • digital audio • MP3 players • Bluetooth devices • electric shavers • personal cameras • electronic games • assistive medical devices

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SAFE SKIES Our priority is always the safety of customers and crew. In light of recent terrorist events and the request by police across Europe to report anything suspicious, please be mindful of the heightened focus on potential threats when viewing material on your devices or talking to companions. Material and conversations may well be entirely innocent, but other customers are entitled to bring anything of concern to the attention of our staff or police and we will be required to investigate. This may result in delays or diversions if our staff feel it is necessary to take action to guarantee the safety of all on board. Thank you for your understanding.

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LOVE AN OVER-THE-TOP DISPLAY? OUR FIREWORKFINDING QUIZ IS WHERE IT’S REALLY POPPING OFF 1/ The best ﬁrework is… A) Just after we kiss. B) The one happening right now. C) The loudest one, obvs. 2/ Displays should go on… A) For, like, half an hour? B) Until the food is ready. C) Three straight weeks. 3/ Remember, remember… A) To visit the loo when you get the opportunity. B) At the end of the day it’s about peace, love and togetherness.

Mostly As Go to Funchal It doesn’t get more banging than New Year’s in Madeira’s capital, with free public concerts, rooftop parties and a boatload of incendiary ﬁrepower echoing around the city’s natural amphitheatre.

BOOK IT Five nights B&B at 4-star Quinta Perestrello Heritage House, from £719pp*. Fly from Gatwick departing 30 Dec.

C) To check you’re allowed to neck wine in the street. 4/ Like Katy Perry, baby, I’m… A) A firework. B) Really fun at parties. C) Smoky eyed and handsomely proportioned. 5/ My guilty pleasure… A) Tipsy public climaxes. B) Happy colours and dozens of those little tea lights. C) Torching controversial political figures in effigy.

Mostly Bs Go to Munich For a reﬂective, spiritual affair with a generous dollop of Bollywood pizzazz, hop across to Munich for continental Europe’s biggest Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights, on 27 October.

BOOK IT Three nights room only at 4-star Leonardo Hotel Munich City South, from £179pp*. Fly from Luton departing 25 Oct.

6/ It ain’t ﬁreworks without… A) A humongous orchestra. B) That divine spark. C) Distressing quantities of smoke. 7/ It’s all about… A) My Instagram likes. B) My family. C) Churros. 8/ Stand back… A) It’s about to get messy. B) It’s about to get desi. C) There’s literally a blazing inferno right there, dude.

Mostly Cs Go to Valencia For utter dynamite excess, you can’t beat Las Fallas, a three-week long, springtime-heralding shindig in March, with torched satirical artworks, a costume parade and pyrotechnic abandon.

BOOK IT 3 nights room only at 3-star Casual de las Artes Valencia, from £259pp*. Fly from Gatwick departing 15 Mar.

WORDS A N DY H I L L / PHOTOS G E T T Y I M AG E S / * P R I C E S Q U OT E D F O R H O L I D AY S A R E P E R P E R S O N . L I M I T E D AVA I L A B I L I T Y. S E E P 1 41 F O R T & C S

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