Trek the carolinas
Spring 2009
What It Takes
Witness the intensity required to bike 25,000 miles for autism awareness
Free Feasts
Fry your own fish fetched from the water with our favorite recipes
Knots 2 Know
Our guide on how to tie 6 of them and when to use them
[ ALSO INSIDE: The incredible survival story of Justin Almers [
STAFF Seth Leonard Seth Leonard is a writer and editor for Trek the Carolinas. He is a senior at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Seth enjoys finding and trying new camp-ready recipes. He also likes flying stunt kites, playing disc golf, trap shooting and car shows.
Stuart West Stuart West is a writer for Trek the Carolinas. He is a senior at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and plans to attend law school in the fall. Stuart enjoys hiking, particularly in the mountains of Western North Carolina, where he is from.
Lenise Willis Lenise Willis is a writer and editor for Trek the Carolinas. She is a senior at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and enjoys backpacking and kayaking. Her favorite place to kayak is at Holden Beach, N.C.
Karen Avent Karen Avent is a designer for Trek the Carolinas. She is a senior at the University of North Carolina. Karen enjoys illustrating and photography. She likes climbing, skiing and spending time at Ocean Isle Beach, N.C.
Kristen Bilger Kristen Bilger is a designer for Trek the Carolinas. She is a junior at the University of North Carolina majoring in communication studies and graphic design. She spends the majority of her time designing for an internship and being involved in other campus organizations, and she tries to play tennis regularly.
Lauren Haley Lauren Haley is a designer for Trek the Carolinas and a senior in the School of Journalism and Mass Communication at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. In her free time, Lauren enjoys walking with her golden retriever, Jazz, and spending time with her family in Pinehurst, N.C.
Kathryn Lewis Kathryn Lewis is a designer for Trek the Carolinas. She is a senior at the University of North Carolina. Kathryn enjoys writing and design. She likes hiking, running and watching the sunrise.
Lyndal Wilson
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Lyndal Wilson is a writer for Trek the Carolinas. She is an exchange student from Australia studying for one year at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Lyndal loves to travel and speaks Italian and Spanish. She is adventuresome and is fond of hiking, camping and white water rafting. She hopes to start her own magazine one day.
Dalia Razo
Erin Wiltgen
Gordon Schuit
Erin Wiltgen, an editor for Trek the Carolinas, is a senior at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Besides a passion for writing, Erin enjoys rock climbing, hiking, ultimate Frisbee and the breathtaking views from the cliffs of Asheville.
Gordon Schuit is a senior graphic design major from Black Mountain, N.C. His plans after graduation include traveling and searching for a job in the "real world". In addition to design his passions include photography, the great outdoors, and trying to take advantage of all the opportunities he has been blessed with in his life.
Dalia Razo designs for Trek the Carolinas. She is a senior at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Her favorite hobbies are photography and hiking.
Cover Reads GPS
page 5 No Need to Be Found if You’re Never Lost: 2009’s best adventure ready GPS units put you in control of your journey.
Wild Trekker of the Month: The Red Fox page 6
Prepare for nighttime screamers. Plus, fox-proof your campsite.
Campfire Recipes page 7
Freshly Fried Fish: Trade instant noodles in for your rod and reel to take advantage of these recipes for fun and easy river-raised delicacies.
Backpacker’s Guide to Hiking Packs page 14
Don’t be intimidated by the variety or fooled by cheap manufacturing — four easy factors to consider when choosing the hiking backpack that works best for you.
Bike For Autism
Kayaking: Paddling on Nature’s Playground page 34
Kayaker Nick Ianniello shares his most fun, and most dangerous, thrills of running rapids, jumping over waterfalls and “playboating.”
Camp out in a Private Treehouse page 46
page 26
Two UNC grads discover what it takes to train for a 24-month cycling trip from Alaska to Argentina in an effort to benefit autism research.
Spend a weekend on the river with river camping. Plus, no one is too old to sleep in these threehouses! Carolina Heritage Outfitters supply treehouses along the Edisto River, S.C., that offer a fun alternative to your traditional campsite.
Disc Golf
North Carolina Bouldering Bonanza
New Spin on an Old Game: Disc Golf gives everyone in the Triangle a chance at a new hobby that delivers more bang for your buck than traditional golf.
With the popularity of bouldering on the rise, check out the advantages of bouldering and some of North Carolina’s finest sites.
page 30
page 48
Places Sports Gear Trail Guide People
Places
8 22 43 45
Sports
Lost Sea
48 Bouldering
Great Smokies
Trail Guide
Urban Hiking Favorite Places
People
16 Justin Almers
10 Knots
Trek Editors’ Note Natural beauty and a wilderness rife with opportunity have drawn us all here to the East Coast. The earliest native settlers may have wandered here blindly, but they stayed for a reason. Similarly, the waves of Europeans and Old Worlders that absconded to this land looked upon its magnificence and concluded it a promised land. Today there is little need for someone to rediscover these areas, but something very American and intrepid drives many of us to do so anyway. Striking out from suburbs and cities to reach new personal heights, or depths, is crucial for some to understand whom they truly are. Trek is a magazine that is devoted to the notion that not everyone has succumbed to a sedentary lifestyle. Thousands of people wake up each day and ride, walk, run, sail and swim through the Carolina states searching for something that’s not necessarily geographic, but actually an intrinsic longing to explore the wilderness within ourselves. Trek is dedicated to helping all of us plant our flag at the peak of personal accomplishment. Sincerely, Seth, Erin, Lenise, Stuart and Lyndal
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Gear GPS
Keep Yourself Out of the By Seth Leonard People may have moved on from the Space Age to the Information Age, but it’s taken this long for the benefits of space investment to trickle down. Global Positioning System satellites make it possible to get driving directions online, figure out where you are without a star map and even help you keep track of those secret bike routes you’ve found. We’ve looked through some of the most functional Garmin GPS units out there to compile this list, our favorite models.
TOP OF THE LINE
Lost & Found THE REST OF US
LOOK MA, NO HANDS
[ [[ [[ [ Colorado 400t
$500 eTrex H
Garmin is a company that strives to make the best products. The 400t embodies that spirit by being the most functional handheld we could find. Boasting quick satellite connectivity, 3-inch full-color touch screen display and 3D graphics, this is truly the ultimate unit. Some units require the use of a stylus, or small pen-like accessory, to interact with the device. The 400t frees busy users from that extra hassle, and its screen has an excellent feel which helps it be quite intuitive. Nothing like breaking your finger on a barely responsive ATM touch pad, the 400t has an iPod-inspired control wheel which has a small learning curve. The device lends itself to hiking and exploration, but if you’re really considering such an investment, watch for the upcoming model for next year to have more backcountry functionality, like detailed descriptions of possible obstacles on known trails.
$100-150 Forerunner 305
Even an avid outdoorsman can’t afford the absolute best equipment for every activity. The eTrex H plays to this reality and offers an excellent balance of usefulness and affordability. Forgoing some of the snazzier features found on flagship models, the eTrex H gets the job done in utilitarian fashion. A grayscale screen and Spartan five-button interface mask the fact that this little gadget acquires satellites as fast if not faster than the most expensive 400t model from Garmin. Sacrificing 3D mapping ability for a rugged GPS, Garmin designed this model to last around 17 hours on just two AA batteries. This means it can support even the longest excursions with little extra weight for backup power.
$200-300
People who aren’t out to scale the Rockies may find the wrist-watch styled 305 Handheld a better choice. Perfect for runners and bikers, the 305 has pedometer functions and simple navigation that shouldn’t hinder anyone from working up a sweat while they work out how many calories they’ve burned. Cousin of the 305 is the Astro 220, a collar mounted system that allows you to keep track of your jogging companion. The 220 is a way for dog owners who appreciate their pet’s freedom of movement to finally let them ripsnort and run free to some extent without worrying about where they might end up. While the two models don’t work in conjunction, they both bring the boon that is GPS right down to the most personal, and perhaps most useful, level.
Interested in buying a GPS unit? Shop https://buy.garmin.com/shop Trek
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Trail Guide Wild Trekker of the Month
The call of a red fox can reach a variety of notes, including a high-pitched shrill.
Screaming Foxes Patrol Their Turf By Lenise Willis
6
If you’re camping out and are awakened by the shrill scream of a female, take a second before you dial 911 and go hunting for a crime scene; it might just be a red fox stating who’s boss. The red fox communicates through a variety of shrills, but its most notable call is its territorial call, which can be heard year round. The nocturnal red fox uses urine to mark its territory — a home range of one to five miles in which it hunts for food, usually alone. It typically warns invaders with a high-pitched noise that closely resembles the blood-curdling scream of a terrified woman. Campers and city residents who have heard the scream have often misunderstood it as a woman crying out for help. This confusion has caused campers to zip-in early for the night and city residents to call in false alarms to the police.
Trek
Despite its frightening and intimidating call, the red fox actually poses little threat to campers, according to wildlife authorities. However, they can be dangerous for campsites. Because the red fox has learned to cope with humans, it won’t be shy when it comes digging through your trash. So unless you want to clean up after someone else’s party, you need to tightly seal and store any left-over
food and tie up your trash bags. Always bring at least 10 feet of twine to hang your trash bag from a high tree branch or shelter. Red foxes are the most widespread and populous wild carnivores in the world. They have been able to inhabit a wide range of environments, including sea cliffs, sand dunes, salt marshes, high mountains, woodlands and urban areas, across the Carolinas and most of North America. If you do encounter one of these late-night screamers, you should leave them alone because they may have rabies. If left unbothered, red foxes will typically ignore humans except to scavenge for food. So when the fire starts to die down and you cozy into your tent for the night, your best defense against this wild trekker is simply a pair of earplugs.
Trail Guide Recipes
Campfire Food
By Seth Leonard
Canoeing is always a quandary. Speedy, lowstress travel down a river can make for a great day, almost any time of year. Take in the scenery, talk for hours or just work on your J-stroke. But if you plan on trekking for more than a night or two, it can be hard to stow enough food and water in your boat. Even campers, who must hump all their gear in themselves, have trouble carrying enough to eat without giving themselves severe backaches. That’s why more than a few people bring a small but trusty assortment of tackle and catch most of their calories. Nick Myers is a student at Clemson University and life-long angler from the Carolinas. He recommends packing light.
“You only need one rod and reel per person,” Myers says. “As far as bait, rely on fresh worms from your campsite. Aside from those, it’s smart to hedge your bets with a few familiar lures, like a small spinner or buzz-bait.” Catching your own fish can save money, but make sure that you ask an authority about the water quality. Myers notes that several lakes near his home of Clemson, S.C., carry trace contaminants from now-defunct textile mills. If you’re the self-reliant type and fancy yourself a bit of a fisherman, consider one of these pan-fried fish recipes. Both require some ingredients and prep work, like preserving the egg, but the list of necessary utensils is small for such a high-calorie meal. To preserve an
egg for use on the river, wrap a fresh, refrigerated egg in bubble wrap and stow it in a cool corner of your canoe. If an egg doesn’t work for you, try a commonly found product like Egg Beaters that, if unopened, can last longer in the field. Always test ingredients like eggs when you use them to make sure they haven’t spoiled. With these two recipes you’ll be able to fry up a real pleaser whether or not the big ones are biting. Both versions pair well with beer or wine. Just be sure not to leave behind any bottles or cans you may bring with you.
Corn Meal Fish Fry Tools, Utensils and Ingredients Large Ziploc or equivalent plastic bag (1 qt) Metal or plastic bowl (2 qt) Large, sturdy frying pan Cook stands (optional) 1 egg or sealed egg substitute product 1 1/2 cups fine ground cornmeal
1 1/2 tablespoons paprika 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 sealed package saltine crackers, from box 1 brick Crisco shortening (or equivalent, hardly perishable fry oil)
Procedure • Before putting in to head down river, mix the corn meal, paprika, pepper, garlic powder, and salt in the plastic bag. If your catch is a large bass or catfish, carefully fillet it. • Pour the cornmeal mixture into the bowl. • Roll each fillet in the cornmeal. • Heat the Crisco or fry oil in the pan. Wet your fingertips and flick the water into the grease. If it sizzles heartily then you’ll know it’s ready. • Fry the fillets in the grease until golden and tender.
If your luck is not so good and you can only hook some brim or bluegill, don’t worry. You’ll be fine. • Clean your fish and scale them thoroughly. • Mince the meat and put it into your bowl. • Crush saltines into crumbs and add to bowl. • Add egg to bowl. • Mix and stir the mixture until consistency is relatively uniform. • The product should be something similar to canned tuna or tuna salad. • Squeeze into golf ball-sized balls. • Use the pre-made cornmeal mixture to gently pat or roll a coating onto the balls. • Heat fry oil as previously instructed. • Fry balls until golden brown.
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Places The Lost Sea
Hidden Appalachia:
the Lost Sea By Stuart West
TOP: On the Wild Tour, guests get the opportunity to experience more higher level cave diving. The tour costs $30 and is available for intermediate climbers only. BOTTOM: The Lost Sea caves are a popular tourist site for families as well as experienced cave divers.
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Have you ever dreamed of crawling on your stomach through a narrow cave with a ceiling so low you can’t stand up, your way lit only by the flashlight in your hand? If so, you should get together a group of like-minded people and head for Sweetwater, Tenn., and the Craighead Caverns. Located in Eastern Tennessee, about a three hour drive from Asheville, N.C., Craighead Caverns is one of the largest cave systems in the United States, and is home to the Lost Sea, which is the largest underground lake in the United States. The Lost Sea is open to the public, and tours run every day except Christmas. Less adventurous visitors can tour the lit portions of the cave, see undeveloped portions of the cave by flashlight and ride glass-bottomed boats on the four-acre lake. The lake contains some of the largest rainbow trout in the region, and submerged lights provide a ghostly feel that accents the translucent fish. For the truly adventurous, however, it is possible to take a Wild Tour. This tour, restricted to groups of 12 or more, involves a regular cave tour, including a ride in the boats, but also includes a spelunking tour through the
less tourist-friendly parts of the cave. Bruises, scrapes and bumped heads are impossible to avoid, but getting to crawl around in the dark, through spaces barely big enough to squeeze through, makes up for the injuries. The Wild Tour also involves an overnight stay in the caverns. The cave is 58 degrees year round, so dress warmly, but in layers. You aren’t cold while you’re moving, but once you stop it gets chilly and you’ll want a nice thick sweatshirt to put on. One thing to remember, however, is that the cave is muddy. Whatever you wear will be permanently stained; do not take expensive stuff down in the cave. First up on the tour is the spelunking. Guides will take you deeper into the cave than most people ever care to go. You will squeeze through narrow openings and will suddenly find yourself in a room so large the light from your flashlight won’t reach the other side and your voice takes a second or two to echo back to you. It isn’t difficult to imagine monsters lurking in the dark. During this part of the tour you’ll see the deep pit a prehistoric jaguar – unlucky enough to have wandered into the cave some 10,000 years ago – fell into, to its death. You’ll also see
where Confederate soldiers mined saltpeter during the civil war and where moonshiners ran stills during prohibition. This part lasts about two hours. Afterwards, the group walks down to the lake for a ride in the glass bottom boats. The trout in the lake are translucent, a result of living their entire lives away from the sun. They swim right up to the boat, attracted to the light, and they look a little like swimming ghosts. In the 1970s an attempt was made to explore the lake using modern equipment. Divers found rooms underneath the surface of the lake completely filled with water. More than 13 acres of water have been mapped, but divers are aware that there is more that they cannot reach. One diver entered a room with a sonar device in an attempt to discover a far wall, but could not find one. The equipment was not powerful enough.
Attempts to map the underwater rooms ended after a boulder the size of a Volkswagen Beetle, dislodged from the roof of the water-filled room by air bubbles released by the diving equipment, missed two divers by a few feet. The divers and the cave owners agreed that it was too dangerous to continue, and no one has been back down to those rooms. After the lake tour it’s back to the campsite, where you have about an hour to spend however you see fit before it’s lights out. Since you’re sleeping on the ground and the ground is nothing but mud, be sure to take a sheet of plastic big enough to sleep on, so that you don’t ruin your sleeping bag. Even with some plastic, it is a good idea not to take an expensive bag into the cave. In the morning you pack and head up and out of the cave. You will be covered in dirt, but you will have had a great time. Your first stop should be someplace with a shower.
Hours/Prices Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb)
Individual Rates: Adult - $15.95 Children (5-12) - $7.45
9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (Sept, Oct, Mar, Apr)
Net Group Rates: Adult - $13.95 Children (5-12) - $6.00 These rates apply to groups of 20 or more. Reservations are requested. Complimentary admission for tour escorts and bus drivers.
9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. (May, Jun, Aug) 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. (July)
ABOVE: Several of the sites at the Lost Sea caves are famous engagement sites for those happy couples hoping to take the next step. RIGHT: The famous yellow tunnel, the entrance to the caves, features architecural aspects unlike anything else in the area.
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Trail Guide Basic Knots
Basic
What it does: A handy knot that applies friction when it is under tension. It is easily adjusted; you can tighten or loosen a line by simply sliding the knot up or down the standing end of the rope. Excellent for tarp and tent construction. It’s a favorite among campers and can be used to adjust the tension of tent guy lines and laundry lines, among other uses.
Knots
slid e
Taut-line Hitch
Clove Hitch
By Lyndal Wilson
What it does: A simple all-purpose hitch that tightens as force is applied. The perfect knot to place over a tent stake, around a tree or pole, or around the top of a nylon food bag to hang in a tree. Ideal for tent stakes or tarp construction.
A rope can be a man’s best friend in the wilderness. With so many knots you may feel overwhelmed working out which ones to use, let alone how to tie them. But take the time to learn these six basics, and it could make all the difference on your next outdoor trip.
Difficulty: Easy How to tie it: Hook around a post with
Half Hitch
a free end running underneath the standing part. Take a second turn around in the same direction and feed the free end through the loop of the second turn. Tighten by pulling on both ends.
What it does: A cornerstone knot
What it does: A great knot that provides a lot of tension in the rope. It is easily adjusted and can be untied very quickly. Can be used in many different applications such as tarp construction, tying a canoe on a trailer or to form a tight clothesline. Once you know this knot, you’ll wonder how you ever got by without it. Difficulty: Difficult How to tie it: Tie off one end of rope. Lay rope over load to be tied down. Tie a slippery half hitch in the middle of the line to form a small loop. With free end, make a turn around a fitting and bring the free end back up to the loop in the line. Feed through and pull line very tight. Secure the knot with tension in the line with one or two half hitches (overhand knots) tied snug to the loop.
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Square What it does: An excellent camp knot that ties two ends of a rope together. But it is best for securing non-critical items because it may “capsize” (collapse into a different shape, which may lead to slippage) under a load. Difficulty: Easy How to tie it: Pass left end over and under right end. Cross what is now the right end over and under the left. Draw up tight. This knot works best with ropes of equal size.
Bowline What it does: A strong knot that forms a loop that will
not slip under force. An excellent knot to anchor the rope to almost any object. Difficulty: Easy How to tie it: The standing part forms “the tree.” Form a loop (the “rabbit hole”) in the middle of the tree. Thread the free end (the “rabbit”) through the loop, which will create a second loop. The rabbit hops out of the hole then goes around the tree and back down the hole. Tighten standing part and you’re done.
JARGON
Trucker’s Hitch
the main rope to make a half hitch. Follow the first half hitch round the same path but up away from the standing end. Pull the end tight to tuck the second turn in. Continue around the main rope in the same direction to make the final half hitch.
Difficulty: Medium to difficult
Hold it all together with these six handy knots
that forms the basis for a multitude of other knots, so you should take the time to truly master it. By itself, it is not particularly reliable or “slip-proof,” but it can handle light loads when tied properly. Difficulty: Very easy How to tie it: Wrap your rope around your post, tree branch, pole or whatever. Cross the short end over the long, main length of the rope. Bring the short end under and down through the hole between the pole and where the rope crosses. Push the knot to the pole and pull to tighten.
How to tie it: Pass the end around
The Standing Part is the part of the rope that you do not work with while tying a knot.
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People
People
The Lost Sea
The Lost Sea
A n p e p d a d i lac H the Lost Sea
By Stuart West
Have you ever dreamed of crawling on your stomach through a narrow cave with a ceiling so low you can’t stand up, your way lit only by the flashlight in your hand? If so, you should get together a group of like-minded people and head for Sweetwater, Tenn., and the Craighead Caverns. Located in Eastern Tennessee, about 3 hours from Asheville, N.C., Craighead Caverns is one of the largest cave systems in the United States, and is home to the Lost Sea, which is the largest underground lake in the United States. The Lost Sea is open to the public, and tours run every day except Christmas. Less adventurous visitors can tour by the lit portions of the cave, see undeveloped portions of the cave by flashlight and ride glassbottomed boats on the four-acre lake. The lake contains some of the largest rainbow trout in the region, and submerged lights provide a ghostly feel that accents the translucent fish. For the truly adventurous, however, it is possible to take a Wild Tour. This tour, restricted to groups of 12 or more, involves a regular cave tour, including a ride in the boats, but also includes a spelunking tour through the
less tourist-friendly parts of the cave. Bruises, scrapes and bumped heads are impossible to avoid, but getting to crawl around, in the dark, through spaces barely big enough to squeeze through makes up for the injuries. The Wild Tour also involves an overnight stay in the caverns. The cave is 58 degrees year round, so dress warmly, but in layers. You aren’t cold while you’re moving, but once you stop it gets chilly and you’ll want a nice thick sweatshirt to put on. One thing to remember, however, is that the cave is muddy. Whatever you wear will be permanently stained; do not take expensive stuff down in the cave. First up on the tour is the spelunking. Guides will take you deeper into the cave than most people ever care to go. You will squeeze through narrow openings and will suddenly find yourself in a room so large the light your flashlight won’t reach the other side and your voice takes a second or two to echo back to you. It isn’t difficult to imagine monsters lurking in the dark. During this part of the tour, you’ll see the deep pit a prehistoric jaguar – unlucky enough to have wandered into the cave some 10,000 years ago and unable to get out – fell in to, to
“Bruises, scrapes and bumped heads are impossible to avoid, but getting to crawl around, in the dark, through spaces barely big enough to squeeze through makes up for the injuries.”
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hia
its death. You’ll also {SEE} where Confederate soldiers mined saltpeter during the civil war and where moonshiners ran stills during prohibition. That part of the tour lasts about two hours. Afterwards, the group walks down to the lake for a ride in the glass bottom boats. The trout in the lake are translucent, a result of living their entire lives away from the sun. They swim right up to the boat, attracted to the light, and they look a little like swimming ghosts. In the 1970s an attempt was made to explore the lake using modern equipment. Divers found rooms underneath the surface of the lake completely filled with water. More than 13 acres of water have been mapped, but divers are aware that there is more that they cannot reach. One diver entered a room with a sonar device in an attempt to discover a far wall, but could not find one. The equipment was not powerful enough. Attempts to map the underwater rooms ended after a boulder the size of a Volkswagen beetle, dislodged from the roof of the water-filled room by air bubbles released by the diving equipment, missed two divers by a few feet. The divers and the cave owners agreed that it was too dangerous to continue, and no one has been back down to those rooms. After the lake tour it is back to the campsite, where you have about an hour to spend
TOP: A tour group looks out at one of the overlooks inside the caverns. RIGHT: One of the two entrances into the caverns. The other entrance is a steep rockcut staircase that can sometimes be slippery and has no hand-rails. PHOTOS BY NICK SEE
however you see fit before it’s lights out. Since you’re sleeping on the ground and the ground is nothing but mud, be sure to take a sheet of plastic big enough to sleep on, so that you don’t ruin your sleeping bag. Even with some plastic, it is a good idea not to take an expensive bag into the cave. In the morning you pack and head up and out of the cave. You will be covered in dirt, but you will have had a great time. Your first stop should be someplace with a shower.
What You Need to Know Prices Cost per person includes regular Lost Sea tour, boat ride, spelunkung tour and overnight stay. Prices are the same regardless of the age of the participants. $20.00 Daytime Wild Tour Overnight Wild Tour(group of 19 or less) $26.00 Overnight Wild Tour(group of 20 or $24.00 more)
Supper Breakfast BELOW: The Lost Sea is America’s largest underground lake. The tour boats have glass bottoms so people can see underneath the water.
$6.00 $4.50
Contact Information: Call: (423) 337-6616 Website: www.lostsea.com
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Gear
Gear
Product Review
Product Review
Backpacker’s Guide to Hiking Packs
FRAME:
Whether internal or external, frames play a crucial role in the comfort and effectiveness of your backpack, helping to transfer the weight from the back to the hips, the part of the body most suited to handle the load. Externally framed packs are well-ventilated and carry more weight than the internal frame. But the external frame holds the weight higher up on your back, creating a higher center of gravity and disrupting balance. Internal frame backpacks have become much more popular because they hug the body and carry the weight lower, allowing for better balance and increasing the freedom of movement. Today, most hiking backpacks have an internal frame.
How to choose the right backpack for YOU By Erin Wiltgen
Almost all adventures into the wild require equipment, be it a tent and cooking materials for a multi-day trip, or water, snacks and rock climbing gear for a day trek to a bouldering site. No matter the type or amount of gear, the most efficient way to carry it along the trail is in a backpack. But how to choose among the variety? Here are some basic things to consider in your search for the proper backpack:
Floating top pocket
Thermo-formed shoulder straps
Under-lid mesh pocket
LENGTH OF TRIP:
HIP STRAP:
Because the hiking pack is meant to distribute a large amount of weight more comfortably for long treks, the hip strap is one of the more important components. Most of the load – 80 percent, in fact – should rest on your hips. A good hip strap should be broad to distribute the weight evenly across your hips. You should also remember that overly padded hip belts, which look the most comfortable, often were poorly made. The best hip strap to look for is one that is relatively stiff and fits your particular hip shape.
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ERIN WILTGEN
The Osprey Aura 50, multiday-women’s pack, complete with hip strap. This backpack, like all internal frame packs, provides freedom of movement and balance while transferring the bulk of the weight to the hiker’s hips, lessening the load on the back.
Your backpack should be able to carry the ten essential hiking supplies:
[[ 1. navigation 2. sun protection 3. insulation 4. illumination 5. hydration 6. first aid kit 7. repair kit 8. tools 9. nutrition 10. shelter
the contours in your back. Each pack provides the range of torso length within which it fits best, so check the ranges and look for the packs that include your torso length. Any pack that doesn’t fit you will move around too much for comfort. Also consider womenspecific packs. Men have a slightly different center of balance, as well as longer torsos, broader shoulders and differently shaped hips. Packs designed for men often don’t fit women as snugly as they should, particularly in the hips, to properly distribute the weight. The best way to decide if a pack fits correctly is to try it on, adjust the straps, put some weight in it and walk around the store. Make sure it doesn’t shift too much in the shoulder and that the hip strap fits snugly around the waist. Remember, in the end how the backpack fits you will be the key to comfort out on the trail.
FIT:
After figuring out the logistics of the frame and type of trip, how the backpack fits your body becomes the most important factor. To gauge the fit, measure your torso length – from the shoulders to the top of the hipbones – using a soft measuring tape to account for
The hip straps of an Osprey Aura 50. Hip straps are a crucial component of any hiking pack.
Front external pouch
The Osprey Aura 50, a multiday women’s pack with an internal frame.
[
[
Like hip straps, shoulder straps should be stiff and durable. The puffy, overly comfortable-looking variety are usually poorly made.
Zip pockets on hip strap
FEATURED BACKPACK FRAME: THE STRUCTURE OF A BACKPACK
JARGON
Depending on the type of trip, the kind of backpack you need may vary. Backpack types are divided into three basic types. Extended trip backpacks, built for trips lasting five days or longer, hold more than 70 liters of gear and provide more load support and suspension than the average multi-day pack. Backpack sizes are measured in liters because it’s based on the volume of gear you can carry, not necessarily the weight. Multi-day refers to a two-to-four-day trip. These packs are the most popular, holding 40 to 70 liters of gear. The extended trip and multi-day packs cost anywhere between $120 and $500. A third type, the technical daypack, is designed for day treks along a hiking trail, sometimes with loops and pockets for specialized gear such as for climbing. These cost much less, usually between $40 and $100. Most backpacks will state what style they are on the tag, but if there’s any confusion you can always ask an employee. At most outdoor stores, such as REI, a worker will be stationed in the section with the backpacks and can answer most questions.
INTERNAL
EXTERNAL
For: Climbers, hikers, skiiers
For: Trail hikers, beginners
Advantages: More flexible, easier to maintain balance
Advantages: Lighter than internal frams, better air flow
Disadvantages: Fewer outside pockets, less air flow
Disadvantages: Frame doesn’t allow much ease of movement
Osprey Aura 50, $199
28 x 13 x 12 inches Holds between 47 and 53 liters Average weight = 3.5 pounds Water resistant zippers Internal hydration sleeve Zippered mesh pockets Sleeping pad straps
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People Almers
harrowing tale survival By Lyndal Wilson
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The day that changed one rock climber’s life forever
ACTION SHOT: Almers climbing at Table Rock, Linville Gorge, N.C. in September 2007. CHRIS BEATSON
JARGON
Justin “Jay”Almers is lucky to be alive. Four months ago he narrowly escaped death after a whopping 120-foot fall while rock climbing left him hanging unconscious and some 200 feet from the ground. The 28-year-old from Mebane, N.C., who works as an education web content designer at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, was climbing with long-term climbing partner Chris Beatson in Linville Gorge, N.C., also known as the Grand Canyon of North Carolina. The climb he’ll never forget, “The Daddy,” is in a popular climbing area of the gorge called Table Rock. Almers says the pair had climbed there numerous times; it was a favorite climbing spot. “At some points it is 1,200 feet to the bottom of the gorge, virtually untouched, and there are no documented climbs on some of the rock there. It’s a great challenge and a great thrill to find a new route and say, ‘Hey this is my little piece.’” On this particular climbing day, Nov. 2 last year, the thrill went nightmarishly wrong. And the physical and emotional trauma of the experience went far beyond the gorge. It would be months before the total effects of that day would truly take their toll. The physical injuries would heal slowly, but the full force of the emotional and mental damage was yet to come.
The climb and fall “The Daddy” is no beginner’s climb. As a multiple-pitch “trad”, it requires climbers to place protection, which are single anchors that the rope runs freely through to protect you during a lead. Almers was the leader, and
“He was hanging upsidedown and backwards with blood dripping from his head. I thought he might have been fatally injured on the way down. It wasn’t a good experience for me” the only thing guarding him was the protection he placed as he went: protection that would ultimately save his life. Almers recalls that since they were running short on time, they decided to do a harder variation of the climb which ended up being a bit “run out,” meaning the protection was spaced widely apart. After climbing for about two hours they got to the third pitch, about 225 feet from the ground and probably dead middle of the climb. “I placed three pieces of protection and then something happened,” Almers says. “I don’t know if I missed the rock I was reaching for or if I slipped or what, but for whatever reason I came off the rock and the force of me falling
Trad climbing a style of rock climbing where the climber brings the rope up with him instead of having it already anchored above him. As he ascends, the climber inserts cramming devices into cracks in the rock. These devices serve as multiple anchor points throughout the climb so that at no one interval is he climbing for too big a gap without protection. When the climber finishes the route, he removes his gear on the way down.
ripped the last two pieces of protection up.” Almers doesn’t remember the actual fall, for which he is quite grateful. But judging by the trauma to his hands, apparently he was conscious as he plunged down the rock face. “I pretty much ping ponged off the wall for 120 feet,” he says. “At some point during the fall I hit my head multiple times, I wasn’t wearing a helmet, and I got a whole heap of lacerations, fractured my skull and got a blood clot on my brain.” Luckily the first piece of protection, a 13-piece wired nut Black Diamond, prevented him from falling to his death. “It was a one inch by inch by half inch wedge-shaped piece of metal,” Almers says. “Essentially I was held on by an inch.” After the fall Almers lay dangling for about 10-15 minutes before he came to. Probably one of the longest time periods of climbing partner Beatson’s life. “He thought I was dead,” says Almers. Beatson couldn’t see Almers slip from where he was, but heard him yell and saw the end of the fall. “He was hanging upside-down and backwards with blood dripping from his head,” he says. “I thought he might have been fatally injured on the way down. It wasn’t a good experience for me.” Although nothing can compare to the terror Almers experienced, Beatson clearly remembers his own fear. “When he fell I was really scared because my first thought was that he would continue falling and fall all the way down and pull me off with him,” he says.
Pitch Because a climbing rope is only so long, longer climbs are broken up into several stages, or pitches. The climber ascends until the end of the rope, sets up an anchor, then belays his belayer up to the anchor. Once they both have reached the anchor, the climber continues to the second pitch. Runout This is when the protection is spaced widely apart. For a trad climb, it means that places to insert the clamping devices are few and far between. Trek
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People
People Almers
Almers
Months after that day, the full effects of the fall began to take their toll. The physical injuries were slowly healing, but the emotional and mental damage was worsening. “It’s funny; I didn’t actually cry about my injuries and accident until about three months after,” says Almers. For him, the physical pain was nothing compared to the post-traumatic stress he suffered. “Looking back on it, to this day I still have pain,” he says. “There’s always that constant reminder. I’m currently in therapy and taking medications to help cope with the post-traumatic stress disorder stuff. Probably the worst part for me to remember is that it wasn’t the actual accident, but the panic attacks and stuff that came on three months after the fall.” The aftermath was exacerbated by the fact that Almer’s wife, Melissa, was six months pregnant at the time of the fall, and they had the baby in February. The couple was also in the process of moving, so things really started to take their toll when Almers was unable to contribute. He started writing a blog, “Life After the Fall,” (jayalmers.com/blog) to chronicle his journey and help deal with what he’s going through. For Almers, the experience has been profound. “It’s definitely one that changes you in some way or form for the rest of your life,” he says.
ABOVE: Breathtaking beauty: Table Rock Mountain, Linville Gorge, N.C. PHOTO: JAY ALMERS RIGHT: Jay Almers at the bottom of ‘The Daddy’, a few hours before the fall. PHOTO: CHRIS BEATSON
The rescue
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It would be another two hours before a rescue team reached Almers who waited fading in and out of consciousness without any pain medication. The extraction process took another eight hours, and involved more than 100 personnel, according to the News Herald, Burke County, N.C. Joe Belanger, a Paramedic who works for Burke County Emergency Medical Services, scaled down the cliff to reach Almers. He was with him for about eight hours on a small rock ledge, giving him morphine and reassessing him every 15 minutes. “He was stable, but he was beat up pretty good,” he says. “I knew he had a head injury. I knew his shoulder was damaged….He was answering my questions correctly, so I knew his mental functioning was good.” It was a particularly advanced and demanding rescue operation. It was very dangerous just to get to the area where he fell, Belanger says. “I was scared the first 20 feet off that cliff and I had another 180 to go.” The negative angle of the rock face forced Almers to be pulled manually for about 200 feet up to a safe, workable area. “That area he fell in was very rugged,” Belanger says. “It was very hard getting him out of there.” As he
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and Almers ascended, the rope was running across sharp rocks and Belanger could see it was fraying a bit. “I was scared,” Belanger says. “I prayed a lot for myself and was very cautious. There were just too many things that could have gone wrong that night.” The operation was a success, though, and Almers was flown to Charlotte before being transferred to an ambulance as the hospital pad had no space for the helicopter to land. Almers fell around 3:30 p.m. and made it to the hospital around 5 a.m. the following day. He stayed there for five days, of which he remembers about five or six hours. “I don’t know if it was my head injury or all the medications I’d been on,” says Almers. “It was a very traumatic event, and obviously your body is designed in a way to prevent you from going through it too much.”
Rock Climbing The American Alpine Club, in its yearly compendium Accidents in North American Mountaineering, reported 15 climbing fatalities in the United States in 2007. The highest tally in the last 57 years, in 1956, was 53. The yearly average was 25.
Reflecting on the experience
The British government, comparing the risks of various activities Hang-gliding Scuba Diving Rock Climbing Canoeing 0
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Fatalities for Every 10,000 Outings
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“I’d like to say there were some positives,” he added. “It has made me appreciate my life more. It brought things more into perspective and in a time’s need to see how many people do care about you….” “Sometimes it takes something big like this to realize how fortunate you really are,” Almers says. As far as climbing goes, he has no intention of going back any time soon. “At this point, I can’t say what I’m going to do,” he says. “I’ve lost all desire to climb, and it saddens me because it was such a passion of mine. “I can’t even climb a ladder without....” he says before pausing. “I’m not afraid of heights; I’m just afraid of falling. With climbing you can’t afford to second guess yourself at all, and I would be. For me and my family and now my two daughters, I’m not willing to do that.”
“When he fell I was really scared because my first thought was that he would continue falling, and fall all the way down, and pull me off with him.” A lost love A long-time sports enthusiast and lover of the outdoors, Almers certainly feels the loss of rock climbing. For him it was an escape from the everyday and appealed to him on many levels. “I loved the challenge that was there,” he says. “There’s something primal about man versus nature.” “Part of it was the challenge. Another part was the feeling of accomplishment that you just scaled something that took thousands of years to form. “You feel closer to God when you’re there; that was probably one of biggest things for me, just the clarity you feel, the openness. It’s truly beautiful.” Almers says he will still continue to camp but is wary of returning to Linville Gorge. His climbing partner, Beatson, wants to revisit the area, but Almers isn’t sure if he’ll feel up to it. “It’s more than just a camping spot,” he says. “It’s part of my life. Maybe it’d be therapeutic. Maybe it’d scare the hell out of me.” Linville Gorge was a favorite place of Almers. He had climbed there many other times and considers the place to be a beautiful spot and full of great rock climbing opportunities. “Linville Gorge is by far the best in my opinion just because of the scenery and remoteness,” he says. The gorge is covered by a dense hardwood and pine forest and a wide variety of smaller trees and other plants. Recreation opportunities include hiking, backpacking, fishing and hunting. And of course rock climbing. “The great thing about Table Rock is there’s a huge selection of various different climbs ranging from ‘piece of cake’ to ‘no way’ climbs,” Almers says. “The Daddy,” rated at a five/five, is well below the five/nine that he would normally consider himself as outdoors. The first number designates the class of the climb, which is
always five for free climbs, while the second number defines the difficulty, which ranges from zero to 13. Ed Peters, author of Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, explains that the subdivision class five/five means two hand and two footholds are there, obvious to the experienced but not necessarily so to the beginner. “The route we were climbing was well below my typical climbing level, but at the same time it was five pitch climb and a little bit run out in the direction we climbed,” Almers said. “That made it a little more difficult than it should have been, I guess.”
The fear of falling Almers was certainly no amateur. He started climbing as a teenager when a good friend wanted to check out a new climbing gym, “Vertical Edge” in Durham. But 15 years of experience didn’t make him complacent, and he was always aware of the dangers. “To some degree I think I had fear,” Almers says. “I don’t know if I’d call it fear but just a healthy respect for it to keep you alert and aware. I think that fear is what keeps you
Linville Gorge
After the fall
The Linville Gorge Wilderness, in the western North Carolina Mountains, is part of the Pisgah National Forest. The terrain is extremely steep and rugged with numerous rock formations including Sitting Bear, Hawksbill, Table Rock, and the Chimneys. Elevations range from 1,300 feet on the Linville River to 4,120 feet on Gingercake Mountain. The gorge is covered by a dense hardwood and pine forest and a wide variety of smaller trees and other plants. Recreation opportunities include hiking, backpacking, rock climbing, fishing, and hunting.
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People Almers
JAY ALMERS A climbing kingdom: View from the top of a route called “Skip to my Lou” at Table Rock Mountain in Linville Gorge, taken the day before the fall. second-guessing, and having that respect for it ensures that when you reach for a move you have enough protection, that if something goes wrong you should be able OK.” Falling, says Almers, is relatively common during rock climbing. “I think all real rock climbers know what it’s like to fall,” Almers says. “The difference is how far you fall. In my case it was pretty extreme. I’ve heard of people with broken legs and even dying from falling 20 feet.”
The helmet issue
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He didn’t break his legs, but with a fractured skull and brain injuries, he knows it could have been much worse, if not fatal. He had never had a serious fall before, and never wore a helmet— a scarily common practice among rock climbers. Almers says that during his trips only about half of climbers wear them. “There’s a huge contingent that believes it gets in the way and hinders eyesight.” But what were his personal reasons for not using one? He isn’t sure what his excuse was. “I think it was a mix between thinking I was better than that, and it would get in the way.”
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Now though, he can’t emphasize its importance enough. He has made an effort to warn fellow climbers about the dangers, and sent out an email to the Carolina Climbers club at UNC-Chapel Hill to let them know about his fall and strongly encourage the use of helmets. Almers’ climbing partner Beatson never wore a helmet, either. “When I started climbing I didn’t, and a lot of people I climbed with didn’t wear one, either,” he says. “Usually when you climb and take a fall it’s not a long fall, and the rope will catch you quickly, and your head is not prone to hitting the rock. I certainly see the benefit now.”
Telling other climbers Almers isn’t broadcasting his story to the rock climbing world, and doesn’t feel it’s necessary. “I think we’re a very tight-knit sport,” he says. “I think any sport that has this kind of risk creates almost a brotherhood or sisterhood of like-minded people. Everyone feels for everyone whether you are actually involved or just read about it. In some way shape or form it hits home for them, there’s not a whole lot of
needing to tell the story, they can visualize it. There are thousands who aren’t as fortunate.” In any case, it wasn’t long ago that Almers was introducing new people to rock climbing. “I truly loved the sport and getting people hooked on the sport.” And although he’s unlikely to climb himself, part of that spirit still remains. “Go for it,” is his message to people interested in climbing. “What happened to me may or may not happen to them. It’s like anything. If you have the will and desire to do something, then do it, but be smart about it and make sure you know enough about area climbing and that you’re adequately prepared.” Beatson agrees, saying: “Certainly wear a helmet and climb within your abilities and make sure you have the right equipment.” He isn’t sure if he’ll climb again, and says he surely won’t be doing any multi-pitch lead climbing if he does decide to return to the sport. “I’m certainly not in any rush to get out on the rock again, maybe I’ll do some indoor climbing.” “The main thing for me to tell anyone is no matter what you think your experience level is and strength level is you should not get on the rock without a helmet,” says Almers.
Places
Places Great Smokies
Great Smokies
The Great Smokies One of the most popular national parks in the U.S. offers opportunities for hiking, camping and watching wild animals in their natural habitats. By Stuart West For the people of Western North Carolina and Eastern Tennessee, the Great Smokies National Park has always been a part of their lives. “I remember the first time we went to the Great Smokies,” Jake Gardner, a lifelong resident in the Asheville area, says. “My dad took me up to Cherokee to see a friend of his, and then we went into the park for a hike. Growing up around here, you get used to great views. But this, this was different. This was amazing. I had never seen anything like it.” Gardner, an avid outdoorsman, spends as much time in the park as he can, basking in the pristine wilderness.
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“It amazes me that you can see elk there,” he says. “Bears, deer, all sorts of things. The last time I was there I saw a bear a few hundred feet away, just munching on some berries. Needless to say, I turned around and went the other way.” Straddling the state line between North Carolina and Tennessee, the Great Smokies National Park has become a destination for locals and tourists alike in the 75 years it has been open to the public. The park offers plenty of opportunities for visitors to enjoy nature in all her glory. You can do anything from a day hike to a horseback camping trip; you might see elk or bears wandering through the approximately 700 square miles of park.
Things to do in the park There are plenty of outdoor activities than can be enjoyed in the park. Below are just a few of them. Backpacking For the adventurous, it is hard to beat a multi-day camping trip through the heart of the Great Smokies. Brent Baldwin, a graphic designer in Asheville, tries to spend a week every year backpacking through the park. “I try to get out there every summer,” Baldwin says. “It certainly takes some doing. A week in the woods requires some planning. The trail might be in bad shape, and you’ve got to be ready for that.” Many of the trails can be eroded, waterlogged or blocked, especially if you go out during the winter months, since trail maintenance is deferred until the summer. You also need a permit to camp, but those permits are free. “A buddy of mine once drove all the way out there, which is about an hour and half from here, only to find out that he needed a permit,” Baldwin says. “He didn’t have one, so he had to come home.” You are also required to stay at designated campsites or shelters, which are built especially for campers. If you plan on staying in a shelter on a trail, as well as some popular campsites, you must have a reservation. Reservations can be made up to a month in advance by calling the park’s Backcountry Information Office at (865) 436-1297 between 9 a.m. and noon on weekdays. In addition to staying at designated shelters and campsites, the park has other rules you have to follow. When answering the call of nature, make sure that you are at least 100 yards from a campsite or stream, and bury any feces or toilet paper at least six inches deep. The National Forest Service also requires campers to make sure that their food is properly stored overnight. This means that food is sealed in airtight containers and suspended at least 10 feet in the air and four feet away from the trunk of the tree it is hanging in. Gardner tells the story of a skunk that let itself into his shelter one night, trying to get to some food he had forgotten to hang. “My buddy woke me up in the middle of the night,” Gardner says. “I took one look at him and knew something was wrong; he looked white as a ghost. He mouthed one word: ‘skunk,’ and we just lay there with this skunk going through my bag for five minutes, about
Scott Basford The Alum Cave Bluff trail is 5.6 miles round trip and is one of the most popular trails. The trail ascends Mount Le Conte on the Tennessee side of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. ten feet away. That’s about the most afraid I’ve been in the woods.” Planning for a successful trip requires following a few basic safety tips. Have an itinerary, and give a copy of that itinerary to someone you trust in case you don’t come back on time. Always hike with someone rather than alone. Carry a map and know how to read it. Bring enough water – typically 2 quarts per
person, per day – and carry a first aid kit.
Day Hikes Another option for a fun activity in the park is to go on a day hike. Some of the more than 800 miles of maintained trails in the park are perfectly suited for any level of hiker.
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Places
Places Great Smokies
Great Smokies Cherokee, N.C. The three others are all in Tennessee: Sugarlands and Smoky Mountain are both near Gatlinburg, while Cades Cove stables is near Townsend, Tenn. Information on all of the stables is available on the Great Smokies National Park Web site: www.nps. gov/grsm. If you or someone you know wants to ride private horses in the park there is no problem, as long as you stay on appropriate trials designated for horseback. You can even camp overnight with your horses if you are so inclined, but some campsites might require a permit.
Watch out for the Wildlife One of the most amazing things the Great Smokies National Park has to offer is the chance to see a wide variety of animals you won’t see anywhere else. The park is home to many indigenous species of birds, mammals, fish, and amphibians. Some species that were hunted to extinction in the park itself, and sometimes along the entire Eastern Seaboard, have been reintroduced into the park. Beavers and otters fall into this category, but perhaps the most intriguing of all is the elk. Elk used to be all over North Carolina, especially the Appalachian region in the Western part of the state. They were hunted to extinction; the last Elk in the state is thought to have been killed in the 18th century. In 2001 the National Park Service began a trial program, releasing 52 Elk: 27 in that year and 25 the following year. In the intervening years, the park’s herd has grown to 95 animals, each of which is tracked with a radio collar. Many park visitors come to the area specifically to see the herd, and many people do not Scott Basford Leconte Creek was once known as Mill Creek because of all the mills along its banks. You can reach it by taking a hike on Rainbow Falls Trail. The trail crosses the creek several times and offers great views. The creek is the main drainage for Mount Le Conte. If you are unsure what type of day hike to take, a good rule of thumb is to start by considering what you want to see. If you’re interested in waterfalls you will pick a much different trail than if you are interested in views from the top of a mountain. You should also pick a trail that doesn’t exceed the amount of effort you want to put in. In other words, if you are not interested in climbing a mountain, you should probably not pick a ridge trail that leads up to a bald. Be aware of distances and time as well. A general rule of thumb is that hikers generally covers a mile and a half in one hour, and a five mile round-trip hike is generally a good hike for someone who hasn’t done much hiking in
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awhile. Be sure to check the weather before you leave, and plan accordingly. The last thing in the world you want is to be stuck on the side of a mountain during a rainstorm.
Horseback Riding One of the most interesting outdoor adventures offered in the park is horseback riding. The park has 550 miles of trails open to horseback riding, and you can bring in your own horse or sign up for a guided trip through the park from one of four stables allowed to lead tours into the park. One, Smokemont, is near
realize that the animals can be very dangerous. Each animal weighs between 500 pounds and 700 pounds. Males have been known to charge when they interpret a human’s presence as a challenge to their territory, and females will charge if a person comes between them and their calves. To keep people safe as well as protect the animals themselves, federal law prohibits knowingly coming within 150 feet of an elk in any national park. It is also illegal to approach within 150 feet of any of the park’s 1,500 bears. Bears are the largest predators in the Great Smokies National Park, which is one of the few places left in the Southeast where bears can roam in their natural habitat. There are approximately 2 bears per square mile of parkland. The bears are omnivores that eat nuts, berries, leaves, and smaller animals. They have actually been known to prey on vulnerable members of the park’s elk herd. They have color vision, a keen sense of smell, and can run at 30 miles per hour for short stints. They can also climb trees. A good rule of thumb if you see a bear is to move away from it. If the bear is aware of your presence and changes its behavior, you are too close. If the bear follows you as you move away from it, try changing your direction of travel. If that doesn’t work, try shouting and acting aggressive. Try to make yourself seem bigger than you are, perhaps by standing on a rock above the bear. The idea is to make the bear think that you are more of a threat to it than it is to you.
Most bear attacks involve food. If you are attacked and you do have food, the best bet is to give the bear your food. If you do not have food and a bear attacks you, fight back vigorously. It might think that you are food. Attacks by bears in the park are rare, especially considering how many people come through the park each year, but they have happened. Some have been fatal, so it is always a good idea to treat each bear encounter seriously. Never deliberately feed a bear or leave your food where a bear can get it.
Getting There 75
The Great Smokies National Park, because it straddles the state line that separates North Carolina from Tennessee and is so large, has multiple entrances. In North Carolina, the entrance is in Cherokee. To get there, find US-441 and head towards Cherokee; the park entrance is off this highway, north of Cherokee. There are two entrances to the park in Tennessee. From Gatlinburg, get on to US-441 South and follow that through Pigeon Forge and into the park itself. The park entrance in Townsend, Tenn., is accessible from TN-73, which is itself accessible from US- 321.
Wrapping it up There are many things that an outdoor enthusiast can do in the Great Smokies National Park, and those activities can be safe and enjoyable. All it takes is a little planning and you can be off for the adventure of a lifetime. See bear and elk in their natural habitats. Stand under trees that were old when Columbus discovered America. Walk trails that Native Americans used 9,000 years ago. You can do all of this in the Great Smokies National Park.
Tennessee
Knoxville 40 441 321 Townsend
Gatlinburg 40 Asheville
Great Smoky Mountains National Park Cherokee
Waynesville 64
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North Carolina Trek
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People Bikes Without Borders
Bikes Without Borders
By Erin Wiltgen
Two UNC graduates embark on a cycling trip across the American continents
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The story began with a moment of illiteracy. On his way back to Canada from a mission trip, Adam Biel stood in the Belize City airport in January, 2008, staring tiredly at a picture of the rainforest plastered on a sign. In his stupor, Biel read the bright red lettering: Transamerican Trail. While his eyes seemed to be malfunctioning – the sign actually said Transportation Authority of Belize – Biel’s brain kicked instantly into gear. A few weeks later, he mentioned his budding idea of a hiking trip from North America to the southern tip of South America to a group of friends lounging in his dorm room at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Tim Blaisdell, Biel’s friend and fellow student, instantly wanted in. “I was the only one who thought he was serious, and of course I wanted to go with him,” says Blaisdell, a 21-year-old geography and psychology double major originally from Fulton, Md. “Later he said it was because of a sign he misread – badly. I’m not letting him navigate at all because of that one.” Though the idea sprang quickly to life, the execution of the trip itself required a lot more hammering out. Over the roughly 11
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months since Blaisdell jumped onboard, the two friends have worked diligently, balancing the busy schedules of their senior years with the meticulous planning involved in a crosscontinent venture. The route began as two points: Anchorage, Alaska, and Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. Tierra del Fuego was a given, Biel says, because of its seat at the southernmost tip of the continent. And while Anchorage indeed sits at the northernmost point of North America, Biel says his main inspiration came from the alliteration. “My mind doesn’t necessarily work like a lot of others,” says Biel, a 22-year-old business major from Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada. “I wanted to go to a place that sounded better. Anchorage to Argentina sounded better than British Columbia to Argentina.” Biel and Blaisdell spent a planning session leaning over a map, looking at the straight line drawn from Anchorage to Tierra del Fuego. Soon they were plugging tacks on other cities they wanted to visit; then it became just a matter of connecting the dots. “That was a fun day,” Blaisdell says. “It wasn’t a straight line after that.”
While at first the pair had fixated on backpacking their originally calculated 16,000-mile trip, the realization that they had miscalculated – drastically – changed their mind. “We decided that doing 25,000 miles, we have to cycle,” Biel says. “Either that, or commit seven years to this trip.” Which, apparently, neither of the adventurers is willing to do. As a biking trip, the journey clocked in at around two years. And as seniors, Biel and Blaisdell planned to start soon after graduation, heading up to Anchorage in the week of June 21, 2009, and leaving a few days later. But as random as the birth of the trip was, and as piecemeal as the route-setting seemed to be, the next 25,000 miles will carry a purpose as well as a name. The decision to join with Pathfinders for Autism, a non-profit organization meant to raise awareness and support for autistic children and their families, inspired the duo to dub the trip Adventure for Autism (AfA). Through the collaboration, Biel and Blaisdell hope to raise money for autism, an issue to which neither man has a personal connection. Dawn Koplos, executive director of Pathfinders, said the commitment that the
journeymen showed when approaching the organization surprised and impressed her. “It’s a very unique idea,” she says. “We were quite honored that they had selected Pathfinders.” Such a unique event – one couched in adventure – will promote awareness of a disease typically viewed in a more serious light, Koplos says. And for a smaller, state-level organization like Pathfinders, the attention could shoot their public image through the roof. “I think that it could open up an audience that may not have otherwise, for example, if National Geographic or the Discovery Channel were to get interest in this, it could be huge,” Koplos says. With a clear and inspirational purpose on the horizon, the adventurers felt motivation spike to a new level. But in terms of logistics, they still have a lot to cover. Biel and Blaisdell say they will deal with a lot of these practicalities on the fly. “Once this adventure has started, it’ll take on a life of its own,” Biel says. “I’m really excited for that, to meet the people who will make contact with us.” In fact, Biel says that one idea behind the trip is to not create an itinerary for every step. They still need to arrange who will take their mail for two years and how to cross international borders, but day-to-day issues like food and shelter they intend to take as they come. “Part of our trip is that we don’t want to explicitly plan everything out before because the things that locals do and the things that are tourist attractions tend to be two different contexts,” Biel says. “We want to experience what the locals experience.” Unlike most backpacking trips, which focus on the physical locations the hikers pass through, AfA emphasizes human interaction. “It’s not about us doing this trip,” Biel says. “It’s about the cause that we’re supporting. We want to know the people on our trip and the people around it. It’s about the people, not the place.” In that sense, the adventure becomes not about the destination and only partly about the journey, but more about the people the two will meet along the way. Biel says he hopes these people will impact his life and vice versa. He hopes that part of the impact he and Blaisdell instill involves encouraging others to take up similar feats. While he would definitely suggest a similar type of trip on any scale, Biel’s goal is that people who hear about AfA will seek to realize their own passions. Blaisdell says that in a sense motivation to go big for a cause embodies the message the two men hope to send. “I want to inspire people – autistic or otherwise – to show them that they matter and can make a difference,” Blaisdell says. “I think that’s a message anyone can get behind.” To reach people and instill that encourage-
ment, the journeymen decided to document their trip – through video, photography and journaling – which they will post online. Besides just a day-to-day diary, such documentation will include an audio track recorded from street artists the two meet along the way as well as videos of various challenges meant not only to raise awareness, and hopefully money, but also to spice up the long trek. “We’re going to try to take on challenges during the trip to challenge ourselves physically, mentally and emotionally,” Biel says. “To some extent they’ll be challenges that people with autism go through to make this trip hit closer to home for us.” Some of these challenges boil down to pure antics, such as running a 5K in a banana and gorilla costume, which the two hope to do when they pass through Chapel Hill as a fun run with friends and a fundraiser combined. Although none of the challenges have been officially set up, Biel and Blaisdell are still dreaming big…and creatively. “Anything from biking into a drive-in movie theater to rafting across rivers wrapped in bubble wrap,” Blaisdell says. “We’re going to have a lot of time on our hands to come up with crazy stuff and hope that other people will contribute their ideas.” Other challenge ideas offer a more educational slant. The men say they want to learn to forge, rope a cow, weave a hammock and build a dugout canoe. They also want to build up to doing 1,000 pushups — straight. “And then we’ll watch it on fast-forward,” Biel says, laughing. “That would be pretty nasty.” But before the trip even begins, the men will have to face challenges of a different sort: the logistics. Because of the vast degree of weather changes they will be traveling through, Biel says they can’t carry all of the clothes they’ll need with them. Thus the two will arrange dates and set locations for gear exchanges. For money, Biel says he plans to open an account with HSBC Bank, which operates in every country they’ll travel through – “Which means hello Visa card,” he says. The trip itself will mostly be funded through donations. The adventurers set the goal of raising $1 million for autism. Part of those fundraisers will help pay for the trip, which Biel says he estimates as costing $40,000. The two hope to reduce that cost through gear donations, such as bikes and outdoor apparel. Crossing borders has posed another interesting problem. An acquaintance of Biel’s accomplished a cross-country bike trip and passed over borders without trouble, Biel says. The two men plan to walk across or hitch a ride with friendly travelers. “Hopefully we’ll get through without any major hang-ups or run-ins with the law,” Blaisdell says jokingly. “We might raise some eyebrows, but probably not too many suspicions.
Tim Blaisdell (left) and Adam Biel pose together in their final months at UNC-Chapel Hill before their 2-year journey begins.
[ [ “It’s not about us doing this trip, it’s about the cause that we’re supporting. We want to know the people on our trip and the people around it.”
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People Bikes Without Borders
[ [ “No matter how we train, we’re not going to be physically prepared without doing what we’re actually going to do.”
Two guys biking the Western hemisphere trying to raise funds for a cause they believe in – I know I’d let them through.” Once they pass political borders, however, the two don’t anticipate much trouble with language barriers. Although “yo quiero tacos” defines the extent of Blaisdell’s Spanishspeaking abilities, Biel says his should be at least passable once he works out the rust. “It’s going to be exciting for the first couple of weeks in Mexico until I get my Spanish skills back up to where they should be,” he says. Physical training will take a bit more work than freshening up dormant language proficiencies. While they frequently woke up before classes to swim or run, as students Biel and Blaisdell say they lacked the time to dedicate the number of hours they needed to physical preparation. “Because we’re in school, we can’t do a lot of that because otherwise we won’t be awake in class,” Biel says. Luckily both adventurers participated in
school sports; Blaisdell fenced on the varsity team for UNC-Chapel Hill and Biel was one of two men who practiced with the women’s varsity volleyball team to give the players experience at a higher playing level. Already of the slim, built, athletic body type, the men also stayed active outside of team practices as well as after the seasons — and school — ended: rock climbing and ultimate Frisbee for Blaisdell, and long boarding and scuba diving for Biel. So they certainly aren’t out of shape, and they have a constant excuse to continue building muscle. “From what I’ve heard from other people who have done cross-continent trips on bicycles is that what it comes down to is sheer physical strength,” Biel says. Besides time, the men also didn’t have a 25,000-mile track to practice on. “No matter how we train, we’re not going to be physically prepared without doing what we’re actually going to do,” Biel says. “The first few weeks are probably going to be extremely
Route Tracker 1
The following is a list of cities that the duo will travel through over the course of their journey.
2
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
3 6
5 4 10
7
8 9
11 18 19 20
17
16
13
23
12 14 15
22 24 26 30 21 25 27 28 29 31 33 34 36
35
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21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38.
Oaxaca Chiapas Cancun Belize City Guatemala City San Salvador Teguclgalpa Managua San Jose Panama City Quito Cuzco La Paz Asunción Buenos Aires Santa Rosa Rio Grande Tierra del Fuego (not a city)
*Note: Dates of arrival for all stops have not yet been confirmed/decided
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Anchorage Vancouver Edmonton Toronto Montreal Halifax Boston New York City Baltimore Washington, D.C. Chapel Hill Charleston Savannah Miami Key West New Orleans Austin San Antonio Monterrey Mexico City
ABOVE: Adam Biel rocks out while testing a road bike to get some legitimate on-the-road training. Biel and Blaisdell are considering using road bikes on the two-year trek. RIGHT: Tim Blaisdell stretches across a gap on a bouldering problem in Boone, N.C. Blaisdell has been rock climbing for more than six years and hopes to find some interesting places to climb on the crosscountry trek.
rough.” Part of the challenge will come from the fact that neither man has attempted a trip even close to this scale before. Their bodies have no idea what to expect, and neither do they. In keeping with the adventurous spirit that initiated the trip, Blaisdell and Biel say they find the thought both thrilling and terrifying. Adventurous attitude notwithstanding, a trip into the depths of nature – long or otherwise – can change a person. Biel says he thinks that connecting to nature helps people connect better with themselves. “I think that nature is immensely important for learning about yourself,” he says, “because once you remove yourself from technology, you’re left with two things: yourself and God. Any time you spend time in nature, no matter what your religious beliefs are, you understand yourself better — your wants and your beliefs.” Biel says he’s accepted the fact that he’ll change even if others don’t notice. “I know that I will live more intensively in the moment than I already do,” he says. “I know that at the end of this trip I will have fewer boundaries as a person, mental boundaries, because I will have challenged those.” Blaisdell says that while he knows he will change, he can’t begin to fathom in what ways the trip would impact him. “I’ll change every day in ways I can’t imag-
ine,” he says. “Probably won’t grow any taller, though.” But the impacts the men envision the trip making on them – growing as a person, giving back to the world – declare a lot about their existing personalities. While Blaisdell and Biel say many friends have described such a person in one word, crazy, they say they think the explanation goes deeper. “I think the type of person who does a trip like this is someone who isn’t content with the way things are,” Biel says. “You don’t do a 25,000-mile cycling trip just because you’re bored. If you’re bored you take up a hobby.” Koplos of Pathfinders says she noticed that same spark in the two men, a quality that she said impressed upon her their dedication not only to the trek but to the purpose behind it. “If it was just an adventure they were looking for, they certainly wouldn’t have to take the extra work to turn it into a fundraiser for autism,” she says. “It would be hard enough just to try to get from Alaska to Argentina without having to make a fundraiser out of it.”
How to contribute to AfA Monetary donations – Credit card: go to the AfA website (http://www.adventureforautism. com/) under the donate section. Under “method 1: Donate with a Credit Card” will be a link to make your donation. Check: Send a check, payable to Pathfinders for Autism and designated to AfA, to Pathfinders for Autism 303 International Circle Suite 110 Cockeysville, MD 21030 Adventure donations – To submit challenge ideas, email Biel and Blaisdell at contactafa@adventureforautism.com
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Sports
Sports Disc golf
Disc Golf By Seth Leonard
A new game is creeping up across the Carolinas like the kudzu that is swallowing the south. It’s played by anyone adventurous enough to try it: from older people looking for an excuse to take a low-stress walk to vigorous and vital outdoorsmen needing an extra reason to explore the valleys and vistas near their homes. Disc golf is one game that manages to be totally inclusive to those with many disparate interests, and at the same time has found enough dedicated supporters to really take off in a relatively short time. The sport doesn’t require hefty initial investment or membership fees, and typically a round can be played in less than two hours. Propelled first by a willing college crowd, disc golf ’s convenience and affordability have pushed it nearly into the mainstream of Triangle area recreation. Sean Wade used to study at North Carolina State University in Raleigh. As the nationwide credit crunch set in he began to find it harder and harder to get student loans. When he realized he wouldn’t be able to cover tuition for 2009, Wade began working to fill his free hours and save money. Now Wade, a veteran ball golfer, enjoys the same competitive play he’s used to in the disc game. “My dad beat golf into me for years,” Wade says, grinning as he recollects days gone by. “I started to realize after I moved away that without his club pass, the only golf I could afford was disc golf. Now, you know, even if I had enough money for green fees I’d rather just get a beer or two to take while throwing.” Wade’s roommate, Andrew Reynolds, is another student who has run into hard times. While pursuing an engineering degree, Reynolds was asked by his parents to pay his own rent in order to help reduce family expenses. Between learning about soils and concrete and working at a Walgreens part-time to cover his room and board, Reynolds has found it difficult to keep up with the hobbies he had when he was younger. “I can’t believe I used to go fishing,” Reynolds says. “I’ve got, like, 10 discs in my car, though, so if the weather’s good I can get out and play a little on short notice.” The Carolinas are known as a bastion for traditional golf, what with the picturesque Appalachian Mountains and the western sand hills being prime building grounds for courses. What isn’t as well known is that North and South Carolina have also become a hotbed for disc, read Frisbee, golf. The Research Triangle area in particular has a throng
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Seth Leonard East Wake School: With a course this open and simple, it’s best to show up late to avoid hitting the only real obstruction: young students.
Seth Leonard Buckhorn: The rules state that if a disc is completely submerged then an extra stroke is charged. Be ready to add some strokes when you take on the hazards at Buckhorn.
of throwers, a group bolstered by the university student crowd in the area. Considering the importance of students as a base crowd for disc golf, it isn’t a surprise that the prevailing notion is that the sport’s chief demographic is college-aged males. Contrarily, chancing a round at one of the region’s many courses will help you appreciate the variety of people who are finding a place in disc golf, and we’re not just talking about people of different ages here. Like ball golf, disc doesn’t have an ideal body type. The quality of a thrower’s game depends on his proficiency with his equipment. For example, Ken Climo
is the undisputed world champ, but you’d never guess the fact just by looking at him. If a tall and somewhat gangly, middle-aged man can dominate the game, just about anyone can believe they have a shot as well. With two championship caliber courses, Raleigh is rife with opportunities to toss. Beginners and those desiring a shorter game should get familiar with a short 9-hole course at East Wake Middle School. New players shouldn’t lose many discs in the well-cut soccer fields, but a few wooded holes are a moderate challenge. On the western end of Wake County, The Buckhorn at Harris Lake
County Park offers the longest and most difficult set of links. Four of the holes require you to throw over some serious water hazards to keep the disc in play. Raleigh’s eager community of golfers means that there are tournaments almost daily at public courses. And while there may seem to be a surplus of places to play around the capital city, there are a few largely unlisted private locations as well. The North Carolina Homegrown Tour is an effort led by some older players to connect private course owners in the area. Dozens of players from the Carolinas and beyond attend the event, which consists of two-day or two-round tournaments. Chuck Connelly, playing name “Chuckster”, heads the
whole thing, and makes sure to include lots of extra incentives. Round scores and stats are recorded in order to determine winners of cash and prizes. Check out the tour’s very useful website to catch up with the tour before the next season gets underway at http://www. raleighdiscgolf.com/homegrown/. Chapel Hill has only one course, but the one hosted on the university’s campus is a real treat. It’s designed around the remnants of an old country club, so long holes favoring strong-armed players are the norm. Alex Keil of the Carolina Disc Golf Club of UNC-Chapel Hill had the scoop on a new course being built in nearby Carrboro to handle the growing demand for facilities in Orange County.
Our Favorite Triangle Public Courses:
Disc golf
Buckhorn at Harris Lake County Park: Length: 5748 Tees: Natural: Narrow fairways and 4 chances to throw over water make this course a challenge even for competent professionals. Bring plenty of drivers and a trusty approach disc. Oh yeah, don’t forget to leave your fresh sneakers at home!
Carolina Adventures Outdoor Ed. Ctr. @ UNC: Length: 4562; Tees: Concrete: Keep out of the woods unless you’re looking for a case of poison ivy. Elevation changes, water hazards, woods holes and a few wide open fairways makes this course a real treat no matter how many times you’ve played it. Some tee positions changed monthly. Remember to park at hole 9 to avoid ticketing during school hours. Valley Springs ParkDurham: Length: 4345 Tees: Concrete: The longest course in Durham, Valley Springs offers a variety of long and obstructed holes. Most holes have 3 tee difficulties and 4 extra holes have recently been added to raise the total here to 22. See http://www.discgolfunited.com to find courses in your area, including descriptions, tips and directions.
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Sports
Sports Disc golf
Disc golf so you have some idea of what you’re getting before you buy it.” It’s important to mention here that disc golf can be played with any novelty flying disc, but the sport has evolved to demand purposebuilt equipment for competitive play. Disc golf discs are smaller in diameter and have a much more aggressive edge to cut through the air. They are also much heavier and don’t lend themselves well to pitch and catch like ultimate-style discs. Innova, arguably the number one brand in the game, has an involved but useful ratings system which characterizes every disc they make. Their website is the best resource to use before purchasing any new discs because they have profiles of every product they make. Innova is also relatively close to home with their factory in Rock Hill, South Carolina. And while we’re at it, don’t forget that Rock Hill is also home to the United States Disc Golf Championship each summer. One of the biggest tournaments in the country, the USDGC is hosted at Winthrop University’s Gold course, the most respected course on the east coast. Keil, who learned to play while living in California,
Middle Creek Photo: Carved out of woods like an old pioneer trial, the curse at Middle Creek is still a little rough around the edges. “Some of the Carolina Disc Golf Club members are helping out with workdays,” Keil said. “There will be a rotary club event out there this spring in a massive effort to get all the baskets in place in one day.” A local comedy club owner, Zach Ward, donated around $4,200 to the project. His efforts alone have accounted for about half of the course’s total price tag. Keil believes that plans for the new course will proceed on schedule, which pegs the opening date sometime just before the summer season. If you’re reading this, chances are the course is ready to be played. He also let drop the knowledge that yet another course has been completed under most people’s radar a bit farther down 15-501 near the highend Southern Village apartments. “There is hope to get concrete tee pads in the future, but it’s still a maze to navigate, though, since nothing is marked,” says Keil of the now playable course, just south of Stepford. Like many serious players, Keil is picky. The discs he chooses are like the tires on a racecar: no matter how good a player is, he can’t overcome having the wrong tools for the job. “I throw strictly Innova,” Keil insisted. “This is mostly because they do a better job advertising their flight characteristics, so you have
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How To Score
picked up the Innova habit from west coast throwers. Innova hails from the Golden State, and Keil made sure to bring his preferences along with him to the Triangle. While the Tar Heels and Blue Devils might not like each other very much, Chapel Hill and Durham throwers don’t have a big issue with crossing county lines to find new courses. Some work has been done on a course at the Leigh Farm Park course in Durham that should serve as a long-drive type challenge for those at the dark blue end of Tobacco Road. Yes, Durham seems due for a longer course, since its current ones both run less than 4,500 feet. Usually, people who are seeking long drives and power-oriented fairways need a course of at least 5,300 feet. Pro-preferred courses can be as long as 7,500 feet or more. With all these parks and more, the Research Triangle area boasts around 15 quality courses that are accessible to the public. Consider also that there are five to ten private courses in the area that are playable by those willing to politely contact the owners and you can see the game of disc golf blossoming across the
Disc golf baskets are placed on posts or hung from available areas.
region. Slowly but surely the game is hashing out real estate deals all over and baskets, like bright yellow roots, are taking hold in some popular and unexpected areas.
Seth Leonard
GLIDE
Glide describes the property of the disc being able to mantain loft during SPEED flight. More glide is best for new players and Speed is the ability for producing maximum distance, especially downwind. A disc rated 7 has the most glide. of the disc to cut through the air. Speed Beginners should chose discs with more glide. ratings are listed from 1 to 12. Discs with higher numbers are faster. Faster discs go farther into the Glide FADE wind with less effort. Slower discs take more Low Speed Fade power to throw far, but At the end of the have less chance to fly flight, all discs tail off past the target. (hook) to the left (for Speed Fade RHBH throwers) but some will hook harder than others. A discs rated Turn 0 will finish straightest TURN with very little fade, High Speed Turn - This is the (hook), while a disc tendency of a disc to turn over rated 5 will hook hard or bank to the right (for RHBH throwers) during at the end of the the initial part of the flight. A disc with a + 1 flight. rating is most resistant to turning over, while a - 5 rating will turn the most. Discs rated - 2 to - 5 make good Source: roller discs.
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9
2
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Innova Discs Seth Leonard
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Sports
Sports
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Kayaking
As a small child your heart beat rapidly as you climbed to the top of that bright yellow slide and peered over its daunting edge. After mustering up the courage and taking that final shove, you squealed as the wind brushed back your hair. For a split second you were free, soaring through the air. But now that you’re older, and bigger, you’ve long outgrown the playground and need some excitement that ups the antie. For big kid Nick Ianniello, 23, creekboating and playboating provide just the childlike thrill he craves. But the somersaults are a little trickier, the slides are a little bigger—by about 30 feet—and the playground is a lot more dangerous. “Running a rapid successfully is the biggest rush you’ll ever have in your entire life,” says Ianniello. “I ski, rock climb, mountain bike and drive too fast, and nothing compares to it. The feeling of sliding through a rapid in the right spot and putting your boat right where it wants to be is incredible. Your heart pumps; blood races through your veins and every muscle in your body does exactly what you’ve trained it to do. It’s adrenaline, but it’s more than that. The surge of the water beneath you and the feeling of crashing down a river are unparalleled.”
The Beginning of an Obsession
KAYAKING:
Extreme Sport, Extreme Obsession By Lenise Willis
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It was at the age of 15 that Ianniello found his obsession while riding an inflatable kayak called a “ducky.” He had taken a kayaking class in Boy Scouts, which is where he first learned to roll his kayak. At the end of the week the class paddled down the Nantahala River in Bryson City, N.C., which has runs for both beginner paddlers and the more experienced. Whitewater kayak instructor Larry Ausley from Wake Forest, N.C., calls the Nantahala “the mother of all rivers for whitewater paddlers. That’s where everyone gets their taste of whitewater.” After running the Nantahala, Ianniello was hooked, but he didn’t pursue the sport until his freshman year at Appalachian State in Boone, N.C., where he took a two-week class on whitewater paddling. Since then, Ianniello, who grew up in Asheville, N.C., has been creekboating, a type of whitewater kayaking, for four years. He’s surfed 30-foot waterfalls, fought with rapids and turned somersaults in rivers across the U.S. In fact, it is his love for the sport that has led him to take a journalism job in Missoula, Mont., where he could ride the rapids in his free time. But despite riding Montana’s big water, some of his favorite falls and rapids to ride are in the Carolinas. “The Green River Narrows in western
Kayaking
[
[
“Running a rapid successfully is the biggest rush you’ll ever have in your entire life, says kayaker Nick Ianniello.”
North Carolina is the most incredible place to kayak, but it’s no joke,” Ianniello says. “I love paddling there. Wilson’s Creek near Lenoir, N.C., is also one of the most beautiful places you can paddle a boat. If I could be plucked out of Montana and be on any river anywhere, it’d be Wilson’s Creek. Chill, class IV creeking, and plenty to keep you entertained.”
Learning to Respect the River It was on a rainy day in Boone when Ianniello and his friend Sean Royal dropped the school books and took off for Wilson’s Creek. “If you were one of my college professors you would notice that any day it was raining and gross—I was gone,” Ianniello says. “Wilson’s had gotten a lot of rain and the river was swollen….I used to have a rock that I would look at and if it was covered then it would be a hard day—but I couldn’t find the rock that day. This was class V hell. It was a terrible idea. “I was inexperienced at that level…we were in way over our heads, but we had been on such a high that week that we felt invincible.” They put their boats in five more miles up the river than where they normally did because the rapids were supposed to be easier there. It wasn’t long before both Royal’s and Ianniello’s boats got stuck in a “hole,” a spot of re-circulating water caused by water pouring over top of a submerged object. “I had never seen anything like it—to this day I have never been in anything like it,” Ianniello says. “I can’t even remember how cocky I was then because I was getting absolutely manhandled. I was in an eight-foot long boat that was doing flips I wasn’t even responsible for. “That was the thing about Wilson’s Creek—it had some fun, straightforward rides, but the minute you started to lose respect for it, it showed you who was boss.” Eventually, Ianniello had to swim out of his boat, ball up into the fetal position and let the water push him all the way down to the bottom and then push him back up to the surface where he could swim to the side of the river. He managed to hold on to his paddle, but his boat went sailing downstream. “After I made it to the side I looked around for Sean and he was at the side, too, puking,” Ianniello says. The two walked downstream and found both of their boats parked in the trees.
“At this point cockiness was gone and we were just glad to get out,” Ianniello says. However, there was one problem: they were on one side of the river and the car was on the other. They stuffed their boats into some bushes so they could come back for them the next day. They started hiking up the river to find a calm place to cross, when a rescuer yelled at them, “Stay where you are!” Across the river were about 30 bystanders and a rescue team. A nearby kayaker who saw that Ianniello and Royal were struggling had called in the emergency. What ensued next, Ianniello says, was “an embarrassing five-hour rescue from a guy in a raft. It was really humiliating. We actually had to wear life jackets over our own life jackets. “I remember getting our boats the next day, and Sean didn’t want to get back in the river because he was so freaked out. Sean at this point has sold his gear. For me it taught me that I really love this sport no matter how dangerous it is and how stupid you can look.”
Raging Rapids: The Obsession Ensues Today, Ianniello is facing his biggest fear—big water. “Montana has some high volume rivers, which is something I’ve struggled with,” Ianniello says. “Just the fear of all that wet stuff and getting worked in a big hydraulic is something I’ve dealt with since I started boating. But being here has gotten me to start playboating and paddling huge rivers with confidence. “I’m trying to organize trips to new rivers, maybe Mexico. I’m paddling pretty strong lately so I’m going to be pushing myself a lot. I guess like most kayakers, I want to paddle harder and better. While I lived in the southeast I wanted to kayak big waterfalls, but since moving to Montana I’ve really started working on my playboating. Maybe I’ll be throwing some Phoenix Monkeys this summer if I can get away with it.”
A self-taken photograph of kayaker Nick Ianniello FAR LEFT: Ianniello says this 42-foot “water slide” in western Montana was one of his scariest runs.
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Sports
Sports Kayaking
Kayaking
Paddlers Play Rough
A
By Lenise Willis
LEARN THE LINGO
NICK IANNIELLO Nick Ianniello performs a loop in his Jackson Super Star playboat, which he name Charlotte after the spider from Charlotte’s Web.
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Almost every sport has a freestyle alternative. Rollerskaters breakdance, BMX bikers turn flips and skateboarders pull Ollies. So, why shouldn’t kayaking have a little added flavor and fun? And if you thought landing a back flip on a skateboard or BMX bike was hard, try doing it strapped down—in a kayak—while battling the forces of a raging rapid. Class IV kayaker Nick Ianniello, 23, says that playboating is becoming on par with BMX biking or skateboarding. “Freestyle kayaking is just out of this world these days,” Ianniello says. “There are tricks like the Phoenix Monkey and the McNasty, both of which are well above anything I can do. I did my first loops last summer—a midair front flip in your boat—which for a freestyle novice like myself is pretty exciting. But my favorite trick is the ‘freewheel.’ It can be done off of just about any wave or waterfall or any kind of drop. It’s just a cartwheel and isn’t crazy difficult but it’s a totally fun trick.” Larry Ausley, a whitewater kayak instructor, says playboating is becoming a popular trend with young kayakers. “It’s definitely a young person sport because young paddlers are more fit,” Ausley says. “At the Ocoee River, the premier playriver, you can see dozens of playboaters waiting on the river to practice their moves.”
WHITEWATER KAYAKING: River kayaking that
is divided into three categories: River running, playboating and creekboating.
RIVER RUNNING: Typical, easy river kayaking where the paddler enjoys a leisurely run and the surrounding scenery. PLAYBOATING: Also known as Rodeo or Free-
style Kayaking. A form of kayaking or canoeing where the paddler performs various tricks, such as flips, in a hole. Playboats are shorter and lighter and typically have pointed bows and sterns for easier dipping.
CREEKBOATING: Kayaking on a river with a lot
of gradient and vertical drops with the objective of traveling the length of a section of the river. Creekboats are heavier and larger in order
Ausley says that over the last 10 years playboating has become the growth area in the sport of kayaking. “Playboating has created the quickest change in boats,” Ausley says. “Every year playboaters come up with new moves and then the following year there will be boats designed for that move.”
How to: “LOOP” 1. Position the front of the boat into the hole’s seam where the tip of the rapid touches the water ahead. 2. Throw your weight forward in order to plunge your bow deep into the water. This will pop the back of your boat upwards. 3. Lean back and reach up toward the sky to get as much lift as you can. 4. At the peak of your boat’s elevation, throw your hands forward and tuck your body. This will rotate your boat into a front flip. 5. Mid-flip, pull back with both hands and torso and push heels away from body. This will cause the boat to come back over your head and back into a front surf. 6. Once you have completed the loop you should land with your paddle to one side of the boat (diagonally across your chest with the active blade behind your shoulder).
to ride through rough waters and have more volume under the bow and stern. The bow and stern are usually rounded to help push through obstacles.
HOLE: Also called a playspot or hydraulic.
Refers to an area of re-circulating water in a rapid caused by water pouring over top of a submerged object. Playboaters use these spots to perform tricks.
GREEN WATER: River water that is not covered by the foam of a rapid. Paddlers usually have to sink their paddle deep beneath the foam to catch the green water underneath, or reach beyond the tip of a foamy rapid. SEAM: Line where a rapid’s foamy tip ends and
Waterfalls: Nature’s Slides
I
By Lenise Willis If being tossed by a rapid or flipping a kayak doesn’t satisfy your adrenaline crave, hopping off a 42-foot waterfall certainly will. Just be sure to ignore your inner gut screaming “No!” as you glide off the edge. “Paddling waterfalls is rewarding but it’s kind of scary and it takes a certain amount of stupidity to do it in the first place,” says kayaker Nick Ianniello. “The idea of pointing your boat over that edge and jumping over it goes against everything your mother ever taught you to do. It’s engrained in you from a child not to do this.” The biggest waterfall Ianniello has kayaked in North Carolina was a 30-foot drop off of Triple Falls in DuPont State Forest, N.C. “I guess it feels pretty much like you’d think it feels, like falling and then SPLASH,” Ianniello says. “A lot goes through your mind. A lot of water goes through your nose.” Ianniello says one of the scariest runs he’s had was down a 42-foot waterslide in western Montana. “I wouldn’t really call it a waterfall because it was too slanted,” Ianniello says. “I like to say it was more of a waterslide. The whole time going down all I could think was, ‘oh my God this is so awesome,’ but it scared the hell out of me.” Whitewater kayak instructor Larry Ausley says that it is important to know your experience level before attempting any of these serious runs. “You want to start out with maybe a six inch drop and work up from there,” Ausley says. It is also important to scout a waterfall before running it. “Make sure you have a clear path into the waterfall,” Ausley says. “When you’re in your kayak and you see that horizon approaching you need to know what’s below that drop or else you’re going into what we call a ‘blind drop.’” Knowing what’s below the drop can help you avoid obstacles and prevent your boat from crashing into a rock when landing. Depending on the height of the waterfall, the degree in which your boat enters the water is also an important consideration. Ianniello says, “The biggest problem you encounter when you’re running a waterfall is that you’re eventually going to hit the water. If you’re falling 20 to 30 feet then you can’t land flat or you’ll compress your spine.”
NICK IANNIELLO Nick Ianniello poses at the bottom of Triple Falls in Dupont, N.C. Some of Ianniello’s most dangerous rides have been in the Carolinas.
Ranking Your Run Class I: Entry level
Class IV: Advanced
Fast moving water with riffles and small waves. Few obstructions, all obvious and easily missed with little training. Risk to swimmers is slight; self-rescue is easy.
Straightforward rapids with wide, clear channels that are evident without scouting. Occasional maneuvering may be required, but rocks and medium-sized waves are easily missed by trained paddlers.
Intense, powerful but predictable rapids requiring precise boat handling in turbulent water. Depending on the character of the river, it may feature large, unavoidable waves and holes or constricted passages demanding fast maneuvers under pressure. Rapids may require "must" moves to avoid dangerous hazards. Risk of injury to swimmers is moderate to high, and water conditions may make self-rescue difficult. Group assistance for rescue is often essential.
Class III: Intermed.
Class V: Expert
Rapids with moderate, irregular waves which may be difficult to avoid and which can swamp an open canoe. Complex maneuvers in fast current and good boat control in tight passages or around ledges are often required. Strong eddies and powerful current effects can be found, particularly on large-volume rivers.
Extremely long, obstructed or very violent rapids which expose a paddler to added risk. Drops may contain large, unavoidable waves and holes or steep, congested chutes with demanding routes. What eddies exist may be small, turbulent, or difficult to reach. Swims are dangerous, and rescue is often difficult even for experts.
Class II: Novice
the green water begins.
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People Bikes Without Borders
BikeswithoutBorders
Track the route that Tim and Adam will take on their 2-year, 25,000-mile journey. They will start in Anchorage, Alaska, on June 21, 2009, and end in Tierra del Fuego, a province of Argentina. Check the next page for a breakdown of their journey by the numbers.
Two UNC graduates cycle across the American continents
I
Tim Blaisdell
21 Fulton, Md. Geography/Pschology Double
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By Erin Wiltgen
t began with a moment of illiteracy. On his way back to Canada from a mission trip, Adam Biel stood in the Belize City airport in January, 2008, staring tiredly at a picture of the rainforest plastered on a sign. In his stupor, Biel read the bright red lettering: Transamerican Trail. While his eyes seemed to be malfunctioning – the sign actually said Transportation Authority of Belize – Biel’s brain kicked instantly into gear. A few weeks later, he mentioned his budding idea of a hiking trip from North America to the southern tip of South America to a group of friends lounging in his dorm room at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. Tim Blaisdell, Biel’s friend and fellow student, instantly wanted in. “I was the only one who thought he was serious, and of course I wanted to go with him,” says Blaisdell, a 21-year-old geography and psychology double major originally from Fulton, Md. “Later he said it was because of a sign he misread – badly. I’m not letting him navigate at all because of that one.” Though the idea sprang quickly to life, the execution of the trip itself required a lot more hammering out. Over the roughly 11 months since Blaisdell jumped onboard, the two friends have worked diligently, balancing the busy schedules of their senior years with the meticulous planning involved in a cross-continent venture. The route began as two points: Anchorage, Alaska, and Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. Tierra del Fuego was a given, Biel says, because of its seat at the southernmost tip of the continent. And while Anchorage indeed sits at the northernmost point of North America, Biel says his main inspiration came from the alliteration. “My mind doesn’t necessarily work like a lot of others,” says Biel, a 22-year-old business major from Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada. “I wanted to go to a place that sounded better. Anchorage to Argentina sounded better than British Columbia to Argentina.” Biel and Blaisdell spent a planning session leaning over a map, looking at the straight line drawn from Anchorage to Tierra del Fuego. Soon they were plugging tacks on other cities they wanted to visit; then it became just a matter of connecting the dots. “That was a fun day,” Blaisdell says. “It wasn’t a straight line after that.” While at first the pair had fixated on backpacking and hitchhiking their originally calculated 16,000-mile trip, the realization that they had miscalculated – drastically – changed their mind. “We decided that doing 25,000 miles, we have to cycle,” Biel says. “Either that, or commit seven years to this trip.” Which, apparently, neither of the adventurers is willing to do. As a biking trip, the journey clocked in at right around two years. And as seniors, Biel and Blaisdell planned to start soon after graduation, heading up to Anchorage in the week of June 21, 2009, and leaving a few days later.
Boston, Mass.
Halifax, NS Anchorage, Alaska
New York City, Ny. Baltimore, Md. D.C., District of Columbia Edmonton, AB Vancouver, BC
Chapel Hill, N.C.
Montreal, QC
Charleston, S.C. Savannah, Ga.
Toronto, ON
Adam Biel 22 Sherwood Park, Alberta, Canada Business Major
Austin, Texas
New Orleans, La.
San Antonio, Texas
Miami, Fla. Key West, Fla.
Monterrey, Mexico
0
400 mi
Mexico City, Mexico Oaxaca, Mexico
Cancun, Mexico Chiapas, Mexico Quito, Ecuador
Belize City, Belize
Guatemala City, Guatemala San Salvador, El Salvador
Tegucigalpa, Honduras
Cuzco, Peru La Paz, Bolivia
Managua, Nicaragua
Panama City, Panama
San Jose, Costa Rica
Asunción, Paraguay
Santa Rosa, Argentina Buenos Aires, Argentina
0
300 mi Rio Grande, Argentina
0
500 mi
Tierra del Fuego, Argentina (province)
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People
People Bikes Without Borders
But as random as the birth of the trip Unlike most backpacking trips, which was, and as piecemeal as the route-setting focus on the physical locations, AfA emseemed to be, the next 25,000 miles will phasizes human interaction. carry a purpose as well as a name. The “It’s not about us doing this trip,” Biel decision to join with Pathfinders for Ausays. “It’s about the cause that we’re suptism, a non-profit organization meant to porting. We want to know the people raise awareness and support for autistic on our trip and the people around it. It’s children and their families, inspired the about the people, not the place.” duo to dub the trip Adventure for Autism In that sense, the adventure becomes (AfA). Through the collaboration, Biel not about the destination and only partly and Blaisdell hope to raise money for auabout the journey, but more about the tism, an issue to which neither man has people the two will meet along the way. a personal connection. Dawn Koplos, Biel says he hopes these people will imexecutive director of Pathfinders, said pact his life and vice versa. He hopes that the commitment that the journeymen part of the impact he instills involves enshowed when approaching the organizacouraging others to take up similar feats. tion surprised and impressed her. While he would definitely suggest a simi“It’s a very unique idea,” she says. “We lar type of trip on any scale, Biel’s goal is were quite honored that they had selectthat people who hear about AfA will seek ed Pathfinders.” to realize their own passions. Such a unique event – one couched Blaisdell says that in a sense motivation in outdoorsy adventure – will promote to go big for a cause embodies the mesawareness of a disease typically viewed sage the two men hope to send. in a more serious light, Koplos says. And “I want to inspire people – autistic or for a smaller, state-level organization like otherwise – to show them that they matPathfinders, the attention could shoot ter and can make a difference,” Blaisdell their public image through the roof. Biel rocks out to imaginary music while testing out a says. “I think that’s a message anyone can “I think that it could open up an audi- road bike to do some legitimate, on-the-road training. get behind.” ence that may not have otherwise, for exTo reach people and instill that encourample, if National Geographic or the Disagement, the journeymen decided to In fact, Biel says that one idea behind the covery Channel were to get interest in this, it trip is to not create an itinerary for every step. document their trip – through video, photogcould be huge,” Koplos says. They still need to arrange who will take their raphy and journaling – which they will post With a clear and inspirational purpose, the mail for two years and how to cross interna- online. Besides just a day-to-day diary, such adventurers felt motivation spike to a new tional borders, but day-to-day issues like food documentation will include an audio track relevel. But as for logistics, they still have a lot and shelter they intend to take as they come. corded from street artists the two meet along to cover. Biel and Blaisdell say they will deal “Part of our trip is that we don’t want to ex- the way as well as videos of various challenges with a lot of these practicalities on the fly. plicitly plan everything out before because meant not only to raise awareness, and hope“Once this adventure has started, it’ll take on the things that locals do and the things that fully money, but also to spice up the long a life of its own,” Biel says. “I’m really excited are tourist attractions tend to be two different trek. for that, to meet the people who will make contexts,” Biel says. “We want to experience “We’re going to try to take on challenges contact with us.” during the trip to challenge ourselves physiwhat the locals experience.” cally, mentally and emotionally,” Biel says. “To some extent they’ll be challenges that people with autism go through to make this trip hit closer to home for us.” Some of these challenges boil down to pure antics, such as running a 5K in a banana and Adventure donation gorilla costume, which the two hope to do when they pass through Chapel Hill as a fun Credit Card: go to the AfA website under the donate section. Under run with friends and a fundraiser combined. “method 1: Donate with a Credit Card” will be a link to make your donation. Although none of the challenges have been Check: send a check, payable to Pathfinders for Autism and designated officially set up, Biel and Blaisdell are still to AfA, to dreaming big…and creatively. Pathfinders for Autism “Anything from biking into a drive-in movie To submit challenge ideas, e-mail Biel 303 International Circle theater to rafting across rivers wrapped in and Blaisdell at Suite 110 bubble wrap,” Blaisdell says. “We’re going to contactafa@adventureforautism.com Cockeysville, MD 21030 have a lot of time on our hands to come up with crazy stuff and hope that other people Adventure donation will contribute their ideas.” Other challenge ideas offer a more educahttp://www.adventureforautism.com tional slant. The men say they want to learn to forge, rope a cow, weave a hammock and build a dugout canoe. They also want to build
Contribute to AfA
[
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up to doing 1,000 pushups — straight. “And then we’ll watch it on fast-forward,” Biel says, laughing. “That would be pretty nasty.” But before the trip even begins, the men will have to face challenges of a different sort: the logistics. Because of the vast degree of weather changes they will be traveling through, Biel says they can’t carry all of the clothes they’ll need with them. Thus the two will arrange dates and set locations for gear exchanges. For money, Biel says he plans to open an account with HSBC Bank, which operates in every country they’ll travel through – “Which means hello Visa card,” he says. The trip itself will mostly be funded through donations. The adventurers set the goal of raising $1 million for autism. Part of those fundraisers will help pay for the trip, which Biel says he estimates as costing $40,000. The two hope to reduce that cost through gear donations, such as bikes and outdoor apparel. Crossing borders has posed another rather interesting problem. An acquaintance of Biel’s accomplished a cross-country bike trip and passed over borders without trouble, Biel says. The two men plan to walk across or hitch a ride with friendly travelers. “Hopefully we’ll get through without any major hang-ups or run-ins with the law,” Blaisdell says jokingly. “We might raise some eyebrows, but probably not too many suspicions. Two guys biking the Western hemisphere trying to raise funds for a cause they believe in – I know I’d let them through.” Once they pass political borders, however, the two don’t anticipate much trouble with language barriers. Although “yo quiero tacos” defines the extent of Blaisdell’s Spanishspeaking abilities, Biel says his should be at least passable once he works out the rust. “It’s going to be exciting for the first couple of weeks in Mexico until I get my Spanish skills back up to where they should be,” he says. Physical training will take a bit more work than freshening up dormant language proficiencies. While they frequently woke up before classes to swim or run, as students Biel and Blaisdell say they lacked the time to dedicate the number of hours they needed to physical preparation. “Because we’re in school, we can’t do a lot of that because otherwise we won’t be awake in
class,” Biel says. Luckily both adventurers participated in school sports; Blaisdell fenced on the varsity team for UNC-Chapel Hill and Biel was one of two men who practiced with the women’s varsity volleyball team to give the players experience at a higher playing level. Already of the slim, built, athletic body type, the men also stayed active outside of team practices as well as after the seasons — and school — ended: rock climbing and ultimate Frisbee for Blaisdell, and long boarding and scuba diving for Biel. So they aren’t out of shape, and they have a constant excuse to continue building muscle. “From what I’ve heard from other people who have done crosscontinent trips on bicycles is that what it comes down to is sheer physical strength,” Biel says. Besides time, the men also didn’t have a 25,000-mile track to practice on. “No matter how we train, we’re not going to be physically prepared without doing what we’re actually going to do,” Biel says. “The first few weeks are probably going to be extremely rough.” Part of the challenge will come from the fact that neither man has attempted a trip even close to this scale before. Their bodies have no idea what to expect, and neither do they. In keeping with the adventurous spirit that initiated the trip, Blaisdell and Biel say they find the thought both thrilling and terrifying. Adventurous attitude notwithstanding, a trip into the depths of nature – long or otherwise – can change a person. Biel says he thinks that connecting to nature helps people connect better with themselves. “I think that nature is immensely important for learning about yourself,” he says, “because once you remove yourself from technology, you’re left with two things: yourself and God. Any time you spend time in nature, no matter what your religious beliefs are, you understand yourself better — your wants and your beliefs.” Biel says he’s already accepted the fact that he’ll change as a person, even if others don’t notice the change. “I know that I will live more intensively in the moment than I already do,” he says. “I know that at the end of this trip I will have fewer boundaries as a person, mental boudar-
[ [ “Hopefully we’ll get through without any major hang-ups or run-ins with the law...Two guys biking the Western hemisphere trying to raise funds for a cause they believe in – I know I’d let them through.”
By the Numbers
Bikes Without Borders
A closer look at the magnitude of Adam and Tim’s journey
25,000 37
[miles]
From Anchorage, Alaska, to Tierra del Fuego
[cities]
From 100,000 people in Santa Rosa to 8.3 million in New York City
15 9 6
[nations]
From Canada to Costa Rica to Argentina
[states]
In U.S.: Stops from New York, Ny., to San Antonio, Texas
[provinces]
In Canada: British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia In South America: Tierra del Fuego
2
[years]
2
[continents]
It will be June 21, 2011, when they hope to reach their destination.
North and South America
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People Bikes Without Borders ies, because I will have challenged those.” Blaisdell says that while he knows he will change, he can’t begin to fathom in what ways the trip would impact him. “I’ll change every day in ways I can’t imag ine,” he says. “Probably won’t grow any taller, though.” But the impacts the men envision the trip having on them – growing as a person, giving back to the world – declare a lot about their existing personalities. While Blaisdell and Biel say many friends have described such a person in one word, crazy, they say they think the explanation goes deeper. “I think the type of person who does a trip like this is someone who isn’t content with the way things are,” Biel says. “You don’t do a 25,000-mile cycling trip just because you’re bored. If you’re bored you take up a hobby.” Koplos of Pathfinders says she noticed that same spark in the two men, a quality that she said impressed upon her their dedication not only to the trek but to the purpose behind it. “If it was just an adventure they were looking for, they certainly wouldn’t have to take the extra work to turn it into a fundraiser for autism,” she says. “It would be hard enough just to try to get from Alaska to Argentina without having to make a fundraiser out of it.”
ABOVE: Adam Biel (left) and Tim Blaisdell pose together in their final months at UNC-Chapel Hill before the journey begins. RIGHT: Tim Blaisdell stretches across a gap on a bouldering route in Boone, N.C. Blaisdell has been rock climbing for more than six years and hopes to find some interesting places to climb on the cross-country trek.
Check out some more about the guys at:
www.adventureforautism.com
Adam Biel tests out a road bike, the kind of bike he and Blaisdell are considering for the two-year journey
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Places Urban Hiking
Hiking Close to Home Umstead State Park By Stuart West It is a classic problem: You work in the city, but you play in the country. Getting anywhere, to do anything, requires a long drive and a weekend spent out of town. Things would be so much easier if you lived near that great national park in the mountains or that great river near the beach. But jobs are where people are, and the reason you love the na-
tional park or the river is that they aren’t overrun with crowds. If you want to earn enough money to eat and pay your rent, though, you’re stuck. Relax. Things aren’t all bad. One of the nice things about living in the Carolinas is how close nature usually is. Take the William B. Umstead State Park
near Raleigh, N.C., for instance. Sandwiched between Raleigh, Durham, Cary and the Raleigh-Durham International Airport, Umstead Park covers more than 5,500 acres of land and is divided into two sections: the Reedy Creek section and the Crabtree Creek section. Both sections have entrances that are easily accessible. (See the map for more details) The park has more than 30 miles of hiking trails ranging from easy to moderate difficulty. There are also trails dedicated to mountain biking, though biking on hiking trails is not allowed. All of this, within an hour’s drive of anywhere in the Raleigh-Durham area. If you live nearby, Umstead is a tremendous resource. While it doesn’t offer the sweeping vistas of a good hike on a ridge trail in the mountains or a river for kayaking, the park does have some trails that are worth checking out on a weekend afternoon. This is especially true if you’re craving some peaceful nature hikes, but you just can’t make it out of town. An afternoon at Umstead can take the edge off of that urge to head for the hills that you get every time the weather is nice.
The Best Hiking Trails: The Company Mill Trail in the Reedy Creek section of the park is perhaps the most wellknown of the trails. It is a 4.5-mile-long loop trail of moderate difficulty that passes by an old mill and dam, now reduced to rubble, which used to be a significant portion of the local economy in the 1800s. This trail does involve some elevation, so be prepared to climb. A hike on this trail in the winter months affords a wonderful view of the park; in the summer, unfortunately, you can’t see much. The Inspiration Trail, also in the Reedy Creek section of the park, is about a third of a mile and is flat and quite easy. It passes through a stand of mature hardwoods, however, which is rare. The trail joins with the Company Mill Trail and makes for a nice short diversionary hike that gives you the chance to see woods as they were before people arrived, an uncommon sight. The Sycamore Creek Trail is in the Crabtree Creek section of the park. It is a 6.5-mile loop trail that takes you from Big Lake, the largest of three lakes in the park, over a rise and down to Sycamore Creek. The trail follows the creek to Sycamore Lake and then loops back on
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Places Urban Hiking
itself. This hike is easy to moderately difficult because of the varying terrain, some of which can be rough. Climbing up the hills can be difficult for some people, but this trail is a great way to spend an afternoon.
Biking Trails: For those of you that want to move faster than your legs can take you, there are specially designated trails in Umstead set aside for bikers and horseback riders. These trails are mostly dirt and gravel roads that meander through the park, occasionally passing stone bridges that recall the era before cars (a sort of utopia for bikers and horseback riders). Like the hiking trails, the biking trails offer natural scenery. These trails aren’t likely to do more than pacify a hardcore mountain biker, but they’ll do when you don’t have more than an afternoon to ride. The William B. Umstead State Park is an excellent resource for those living in the RaleighDurham area. Conveniently located, the park is isolated enough that it is possible to spend an afternoon there, forgetting that you’re in the middle of one of the largest metropolitan areas in the state.
Entrance sign to the state park.
Gravel Roads Paved Roads Bike/Bridle Trails Greenway/Hiking Trails Park Boundary
Big Lake*
William B. Umstead State Park Map
Sycamore Lake*
Reedy Creek Lake*
*Swimming is not allowed in lakes
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People
Favorite Places Each month we feature a place you like to go in the Carolinas. This issue we hear why one reader keeps going back to Uwharrie National Forest. By Lyndal Wilson
The Adventurer Bruce Fowler, a 29-year-old electrical engineer from Charlotte, N.C.
Favorite Outdoor Adventure I have a few favorites, but hiking is probably what I do most. I’ve been doing it since I was a kid, and on a regular basis. Every month I go camping somewhere within two hours of Charlotte.
Favorite Place in the Carolinas, and Why One place would have to be Uwharrie. They have trails that run up and down the rivers, and also it has a lot of wildlife, including rattlesnakes. There are also edible plants there, and the Uwharrie River runs through it, so there is some great fishing. One of the things I like is that it is so quiet and isolated and they are very careful to put the hiking groups far apart, so you feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. There are a variety of different landscapes: You have areas that are farms, big open walkout cropping, natural cliffs, and the river is shallow enough that there are little islands. It’s fairly rural, but you do have some people who live in the area, so if you have an emergency you do have somewhere to go. Uwharrie is great, especially if you’re from Charlotte, because you don’t have to drive all the way to the mountains or all the way to the coast. There are also good for day trips.
Interesting Stories In Uwharrie you’re usually pretty safe, but I do remember a time in Boy Scouts when we were eating lunch and all of a sudden a rattlesnake crawled across the kids’ laps and scared them to death. There are a lot of snakes so you have to be careful and watch out for them.
You just handle them; pick them up, move them out of the way with a walking stick.
Challenge Factor It’s pretty moderate hiking, but there’s a good variety of trails. You can start at the north end, and it’s fairly steep and up-and-down hiking. Then, if you reach one of the peaks you can go along the ridge, and it’s fairly challenging, and the vegetation is so thick that you need to keep on the trail. At Uwharrie they are very good at maintaining the land. They harvest certain areas and all of a sudden you will find areas that have been forested and you need to find a route around where they have cut the trees down, and it’s very difficult.
When to Go April or May is probably the best time to go to Uwharrie. June is a good time to go, too. It’s fairly comfortable because a bit of wind comes off the river and lakes, so you get a pretty nice breeze. In July and August it gets stagnant and hot, but it’s so heavily wooded that you are protected from the sun. But, you do get afternoon thunderstorms that make it muggy. You don’t want to go from October to January because that’s deer hunting season, and you don’t want to be there then with the hunters. People swim in the summer, mainly in the lakes. The rivers have a lot of rapids and rocks, but I do know people who go swimming in there. But, that’s at your own risk. They have designated swimming areas in the lakes that go well and that are large enough and deep enough. If you’re there in February or March you can go swimming, too. Everyone jumps in the water. It’s pretty cold. A lot of people do it there; it’s a bit of a tradition. It’s like dunking in the snow bank. We want to hear about your favorite adventure spots. Write to us at editor@trekmagazine. com
Uwharrie National Forest
The Lost Sea
to Greensboro 85 47
64
High Rock Lake
Denton
Asheboro
49
Tuckertown Lake 52
73
Richfield
Badin Lake
Uwharrie National Forest
74
Albemarle 24 27
to Charlotte
52
Lake Tillery
• Uwharrie is a federallydesignated national forest region primarily in Montgomery County, but also extending into Randolph and Davidson counties in south-central North Carolina.
• It is within a two-hour drive from the largest population centers in the state, situated about halfway between Charlotte and Raleigh. • It was first purchased by the Federal government in 1931 during the Great Depression. The land was known as the Uwharrie Reservation. • Though small at 50,189 acres, Uwharrie provides a variety of natural resources including clean rivers and streams, diverse vegetation for scenery, wildlife habitat and wood products. • There is also a wide variety of recreational activities such as hiking, fishing, camping and hunting. • It is named after the Uwharrie Mountains, some of the oldest in North America. According to geologists, the Uwharries were created from an ancient chain of volcanoes. The 1,000-foot hills of today were once 20,000-foot peaks. • The Uwharrie is at the crossroads of both prehistoric and historic settlements. Their legacy is one of the greatest concentrations of archaeological sites in the southeast. For more information: Call the Uwharrie Ranger District on (910) 576-6391 or visit www.uwharries.com
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Places
Places River Camping on the Edisto
River Camping on the Edisto
Too Old for a Treehouse?
Think Again Bring childlike excitement back into camping—Robinson Crusoe style By Lenise Willis
Y
Paddle right up to the steps of this large treehouse that sleeps 4-8.
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houses. Marshall says he loved the peaceful scenery so much that he sold his house in Oak Island, N.C., and moved to live near the Edisto. “When I first heard about the treehouses, I was thinking about a backyard fort kind of thing,” Marshall says. “But I didn’t even see the treehouse until I paddled right up to it. It was absolutely gorgeous…small and cozy with a picnic deck 10 feet up. I spent a few hours sitting on the deck and looking out. I was amazed that I didn’t see anyone on the river. I didn’t even see anyone on the river while I was paddling.” Each treehouse is nestled in the woods on the edge of the river and is out of view of other campsites, ensuring a more isolated experience. “There’s no noise or light pollution,” Marshall says. “I didn’t hear any cars or see any lights out there, except for maybe a campfire from far off. It’s peaceful and really recharges your batteries.” However, Marshall says that doesn’t mean it’s completely quiet. The croaking of frogs and the “whooing” of owls will sing campers to sleep. Each house is also located on its own private creek. The houses are fully furnished with fu-
The 10-mile self-guided canoe and paddle trip from Cypress Tupelo Swamp on the Edisto River Refuge has become the most popular choice among tour-goers. An option to spend the night on the river is also available.
The trip includes a self-guided canoe and kayak tour down the Edistor River to get to the treehouses.
“I didn’t hear any cars or see any lights out there, except for maybe a campfire from far off. It’s peaceful and really recharges your batteries.”
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tons, a kitchen, an outdoor grill, a dining deck and a screened-in, well-vented sleeping area. Outside sit Tiki torches and a fire pit, as well as an outhouse to accommodate for the lack of running water and electricity. Treehouses also come fully supplied with pillows, toilet paper, paper towels, cookware, utensils, a gallon of fresh water, matches and dish soap. Campers only need to bring sleeping bags or blankets, pillow cases, food and beverages, spare clothes, a flashlight, and a sense of adventure. Simple gas lamps, cards, journals, dominoes and board games lay scattered throughout each treehouse, adding both a rustic flavor and childlike thrill to your trip. Treehouse rentals cost $125 per person and include the use of a canoe and a shuttle to the put-in. Reservations should be made in advance. Along with the diversity of sleeping accommodations, CHO can help you plan a variety of trips, including a self-guided canoe and kayak trip, a fully outfitted day trip and a guided canoe trip. The most popular day trip is a 10-mile paddle from Cypress Tupelo Swamp on the Edisto River Refuge to the Canadys Outpost at CHO. You can also spend the weekend on the Edisto by going on a 22-mile overnight trip. If you reserve one of the treehouses, then you can put your canoe in on day one, paddle the 12 miles to the steps of your home-away-from-
home, and then paddle out the next morning. Or, if you have a more rustic weekend in mind, you can park your canoe anywhere on the riverbank and camp in a clearing for the night. CHO can also help you plan a 10-day trip on the Edisto if you’re looking to really submerge yourself into this fantasy lifestyle. The Edisto River, which flows near Charleston and Columbia, S.C., and Savannah, Ga., is the longest undammed blackwater river in North America. Moving at a 2-4 mph pace, this run is an easy paddle. Although the river runs through some eerie swampland, there are also large oaks along the riverbank accompanied by such wildlife as great blue heron, egrets, wood storks, deer, raccoons, bobcats, river otters and alligators. “Don’t you worry, though,” Marshall says. “There’s nothing to get at you…the alligators are young and real shy. You may see a tail go into the water, but it’s most likely just going under to get away from you.” So whether you fear the back pain from strapping on that backpack or just want to see one of nature’s ecosystems from a different point of view, try a canoe camping trip over your traditional hike-in. You’re sure to be well entertained and impressed with the serenity of a river—especially if you opt to sleep in a tree.
This small treehouse sleeps 2-4 and is equipped with futons and a small kitchen.
How to Prepare
You’ve always wanted to go on a “real” camping trip. You know the one: the rugged outdoor adventure that’s miles away from honking horns and doesn’t involve driving onto a campsite and unpacking the cooler. The one portrayed by our childhood heroes of Huck Finn, Robinson Crusoe and the Swiss Family Robinson. Well now you have the chance to live that childhood fantasy – with a touch of rustic flavor, of course. If camping in serene seclusion is ideal but you’re not willing to feel the burn in those hiker’s thighs to get there, try a canoe camping trip instead and take a leisurely paddle down the Edisto River. Still picturing yourself with the Swiss Family Robinson boys? Plan your trip with Carolina Heritage Outfitters (CHO), located on a 150-acre private wildlife reserve in Canadys, S.C., and you’ll have the chance to sleep 16 feet up in the trees! CHO has several camping accommodations set up along the Edisto riverbank, including simple campsite clearings, cabins that can hold up to four, and three treehouses that, depending on their size, can each house either up to four or eight campers. Mickey Marshall, manager of CHO, first visited the Edisto as a paddler and camper in one of CHO’s tree-
1. Seal extra clothes and blankets in plastic bags to keep them dry. 2. Wear non-cotton clothes. Cotton clothes will pull heat away from your body and take longer to dry. 3. Don’t wear flip-flops. Opt for water-resistant sandals with non-slip grips that won’t come off while wading in the water.
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Sports
Sports Bouldering
Bouldering
No Ropes Attached By Erin Wiltgen
Bouldering frees climbers from the obligation of buying gear or lugging it along
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There’s a certain primal adrenaline found in climbing rocks, isn’t there? A kind of natural rush of pure energy. But as exhilarating as completing a route at the indoor gym can be, nothing gets the heart pumping like gripping real rock. What, no rope? No caribiners or webbing to set an anchor? No draws? Well, you may not be able to top-rope or lead climb, but bouldering remains a definite option. Bouldering, or climbing without ropes only high enough so that your feet don’t go higher than shoulder height, typically involves complex, condensed moves because the climber has the ability to scope out the sequence before getting on the wall. Difficulty can range from a piece of cake for beginners to breakyour-fingers challenging for the best climbers in the area. “Bouldering allows you to practice very difficult moves on real rock without the time, effort and gear required for getting on ropes,” says Matt Maloney, 20, a junior at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and avid climber. “It gives you the ability to focus very closely on technique and strength through repetition, without the extra added of roped climbing.” Thus bouldering provides for all skill levels and, best of all, no gear required. You can just
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“Boulderers are kind of like snow borders – free spirits, pushing the envelope and not conforming to traditional practices.”
pick up and go. Because the lack of rope frees you to climb without a belayer, bouldering increases the amount of interaction between climbers. In fact, many rock climbers prefer bouldering over top-roping because it caters more to casual conversation than that of the relationship between climber and belayer. “Bouldering has a very social aspect to it,” Maloney says. “Everyone sits around a boulder, whether they know each other or not, and feels a common bond as they discuss the subtleties of a move or share some previous adventure they have had.” Boulderers tend to settle into a more casual mood, pointing out moves and challenging each other to routes. Because the climber is closer to the ground than when top-roping,
KEVIN ZEICHMANN Tim Blaisdell, 21, a senior geography and psychology major at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, completes the Bookshelf traverse in Boone at Grandmother Boulders. A traverse is a bouldering route that goes from side to side instead of primarily up and down. Note: This is a picture art consisting of multiple pictures fused together to create one image. boulderers don’t alienate themselves entirely from the rest of the group but rather can join in the banter from the wall. It’s a camaraderie that, coupled with the easy accessibility, makes bouldering a popular pastime among climbers of all skill levels. Fitting in with this laid-back atmosphere, embarking on a bouldering trip doesn’t require a fully planned excursion but instead actually caters to the more spontaneous outing. When you come across a rock face – whether intentionally or not – you can start bouldering as soon as your hands touch the wall. “Bouldering’s good because it lets you practice or learn technique without being at a really intense landscape,” says Travis Roscher, 24, a second-year graduate student at UNCChapel Hill and wall monitor at the campus indoor climbing gym. “You don’t need a 70 foot cliff to do it; you need a big rock with a couple of cool features.” However, if you do have time to plan it out, there are a few items that could be helpful. Proper climbing shoes will make jamming your toes into small cracks a lot easier, and more stable footholds mean more secure climbing – important when you aren’t held up by a rope. Although the common idiom “shoulder
height is boulder height” reminds boulderers to stay a safe distance from the ground, Mike Lyons, builder and coordinator of the climbing walls at UNC-Chapel Hill and a climber himself for several years, says preparing for falls is still important. Lyons suggests scoping out the landing zone as well as using a bouldering crash pad to lay below the climber. REI and other outdoor sporting stores sell bouldering crash pads for anywhere between $140 and $290. Generally, thicker, softer mats work best to cushion the impact, although even a simple gymnastics matt will help break a fall. Helmets, which you can also find at outdoor sporting stores, make for an even safer climb, especially in places with sharp, jagged rock and boulders that hang over rock-strewn ground. However, Lyons says that most climbers don’t use helmets. “I think they’re too cool for helmets,” he says. “It takes away from the freedom of bouldering. Boulderers are kind of like snow borders – free
spirits, pushing the envelope and not conforming to traditional practices.” Still, Lyons says that helmets increase safety, especially for new climbers and climbers attempting routes outside their skill level. With or without mats and helmets, you should always spot your partner by standing beneath him or her, arms extended to catch a fall. Such spotting techniques not only ensure the safety of the climber but emphasize the interaction among climbers. “It’s great for building community,” Lyons said. “Bouldering is just another aspect of climbing. It’s fun and always an adventure.”
KEVIN ZEICHMANN Kevin Zeichmann, a sophomore at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, climbs a bouldering route at Moore’s Wall, still focusing even as he completes the last move. Zeichmann’s friend watches in the background, arms outstretched in a spot to catch a fall.
Bouldering Locations in North Carolina In an already rich climbing country, North Carolina offers abundant bouldering sites – mostly located in the western side of the state. Although you can boulder at pretty much any locale you can get your hands and feet onto, some outdoor rock faces cater better to bouldering routes. Moore’s Wall, part of Hanging Rock State Park — which is a little more than 30 miles west of Winston-Salem – reputedly hosts some of the best bouldering in North Carolina. The features offer a variety of climbs, with good, hard rock that makes bouldering a little easier on beginners Pilot Mountain, again around 30 minutes outside of WinstonSalem, boasts mostly top-rope routes but does offer a few bouldering problems. Pilot’s main draw is its easy accessibility, both in terms of getting to the park and getting to the rock face.
Grandmother Rock, located in Boone, N.C., near Grandfather Mountain, hosts hundreds of boulders that offer a vast variety both in type and level of climbs. However, Grandmother’s location in the Boone high country makes for a relatively short climbing season; sweltering summers with smothering humidity and the blanket of ice and snow in the winter allow for just a small window of climbing time. Rumbling Bald, about one hour east of Brevard, N.C., recently jumped on the boulderer’s map with its 71 new bouldering problems. Rumbling Bald sports both beginning and advanced climbs with enough variety to satisfy a full range of skill levels. Its diversity and proximity to other sites, such as Chimney Rock, makes this a go-to spot for many eager climbers. Looking Glass Rock, which also sits near Brevard, lies a bit
farther north than Rumbling Bald. Because of its location near North Carolina’s borders, Looking Glass is accessible for people driving up from South Carolina. This site doesn’t feature any specific bouldering routes and is typically popular for its multi-pitch climbs, but the premier North Carolina granite makes bouldering a fun and easy possibility. Crowder’s Mountain, in a little mix-up from the primarily western sites, rests only 30 minutes away from Charlotte and is also within an hour and a half from Greenville, S.C. Again, the rock faces here are typically frequented by climbers looking to top-rope, but accessible rock faces make bouldering just as easy. The rock at Crowder’s is heavily featured and sometimes fragile and crumbly. Its rough nature can tear up the hands a bit, but it also makes for good, solid hand holds.
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Places Urban Hiking
William B Umstead State Park
Crabtree Creek Entrance
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Trails
Hiking CLOSE to Home It is a classic problem: You work in the city, but you play in the country. Getting anywhere, to do anything, requires a long drive and a weekend spent out of town. Things would be so much easier if you lived near that great national park in the mountains or that great river near the beach. But jobs are where people are, and the reason you love the national park or the river is that they aren’t overrun with crowds. If you want to earn enough money to eat and pay your rent, though, you’re stuck. Relax. Things aren’t all bad. One of the nice things about living in the Carolinas is how close nature usually is. Take the William B. Umstead State Park near Raleigh, N.C., for instance. Sandwiched between Raleigh, Durham, Cary and the Raleigh-Durham International Airport, Umstead Park covers more than 5,500 acres of land and is divided into two sections: the Reedy Creek section and the Crabtree Creek section. Both sections have entrances that are easily acces-
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sible. (See the map for more details) The park has more than 30 miles of hiking trails ranging from easy to moderate difficulty. There are also trails dedicated to mountain biking, though biking on hiking trails is not allowed. All of this, within an hour’s drive of anywhere in the Raleigh-Durham area. If you live nearby, Umstead is a tremendous resource. While it doesn’t offer the sweeping vistas of a good hike on a ridge trail in the mountains or a river for kayaking, the park does have some trails that are worth checking out on a weekend afternoon. This is especially true if you’re craving some peaceful nature hikes, but you just can’t make it out of town. An afternoon at Umstead can take the edge off of that urge to head for the hills that you get every time the weather is nice. The Best Hiking Trails: The Company Mill Trail in the Reedy Creek section of the park is perhaps the most wellknown of the trails. It is a 4.5-mile-long loop
trail of moderate difficulty that passes by an old mill and dam, now reduced to rubble, which used to be a significant portion of the local economy in the 1800s. This trail does involve some elevation, so be prepared to climb. A hike on this trail in the winter months affords a wonderful view of the park; in the summer, unfortunately, you can’t see much. The Inspiration Trail, also in the Reedy Creek section of the park, is about a third of a mile and is flat and quite easy. It passes through a stand of mature hardwoods, however, which is rare. The trail joins with the Company Mill Trail and makes for a nice short diversionary hike that gives you the chance to see woods as they were before people arrived, an uncommon sight. The Sycamore Creek Trail is in the Crabtree Creek section of the park. It is a 6.5-mile loop trail that takes you from Big Lake, the largest of three lakes in the park, over a rise and down to Sycamore Creek. The trail follows the creek to Sycamore Lake and then loops
Bike/Bridle Hiking Trail Road
Lake Crabtree
Reedy Creek Lake
Reedy Creek Entrance back on itself. This hike is easy to moderately difficult because of the varying terrain, some of which can be rough. Climbing up the hills can be difficult for some people, but this trail is a great way to spend an afternoon. Biking Trails: For those of you that want to move faster than your legs can take you, there are specially designated trails in Umstead set aside for bikers and horseback riders. These trails are mostly dirt and gravel roads that meander through the park, occasionally passing stone bridges that recall the era before cars (a sort of utopia for bikers and horseback riders). Like the hiking trails, the biking trails offer natural scenery. These trails aren’t likely to do more than
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pacify a hardcore mountain biker, but they’ll do when you don’t have more than an afternoon to ride. The William B. Umstead State Park is an excellent resource for those living in the RaleighDurham area. Conveniently located, the park is isolated enough that it is possible to spend an afternoon there, forgetting that you’re in the middle of one of the largest metropolitan areas in the state.
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