fashion
18
Romancing
Suits the
Yves-Saint-Laurent
Paul Smith
The Paris F/W 2011 RTW Men’s Collections is all about suits, nobility, nuances of deconstruction, David Bowie and James Bond’s shaken but not stirred feminine side. Stephanie Rivers reports
Ann Demeulemeester Ra f Si m m o n s
Outerwear and shape were the driving factors for the Simmons F/W 2011 collection with haute couture elements added in. Raf focused on the coat and its offerings for the modern, minimalist man with maximalist yearnings. He gave some coat choices, rounded shoulders and fuller sleeves, some with hints of a cape back, while others had toggle-front closures, or strict tailoring details, boxier shapes, with most having sumptuous materials of mohair, cashmere and shearling. Simmons was in a college state of mind, showing a deft hand with collegiateinspired pullovers, cosy cable knits, plaid flannel sweatshirts, duffel coats and widelegged patent leather pants.
Dior Homme
hermes
At Dior Homme, chic refinement and the Amish community set the design tone for the show. Kris Van Assche’s collection for the house distilled the collection down to its essential elements of luxury, form and function. Volume played a big part with loose to the body suiting, large oversized sweaters, elongated bathrobe-inspired vests and ponchos, creating a sense of fluidity. The controlled tailoring, unbroken lines and lack of embellishment of the collection gave it a monastic austerity, as did the mostly monochromatic colour palette, that gave way to an occasional blast of rich hues.
Je a n Pau l Gau lt i e r
Lanvin
The ultra groomed hair, the classic tuxedo, the martini glass full and the rogue good looks spoke to all the things we love so much about James Bond: polished suiting, classic tailoring, strength and his ability to be a man for all seasons. However, in the hands of JPG, nothing is ever what it seems and this collection was no exception. Gaultier’s perverse sense of humour and fashion allowed James Bond to tap into his more feminine side, showcasing classics with a twist and jest. There were tuxedo jackets worn with short shorts exposing fishnet stockings and holsters, long locks with Veronica Lake side swept waves, wet suits rolled half way down topped with form-fitting blazers, as well as tuxedo jackets and vests with corset cut-outs and oversized parkas, perfect for a fast getaway.
YSL
At Yves Saint Laurent Men’s RTW F/W 2011, London’s Carnaby Street, Edwardian finishes and Savile Row were Stefano Pilati’s muses. Stovepipe trouser legs worn with long fitted coats and thick punk rock soles, gave the collection a 60s mod appeal. Savile tailoring could be seen in the structure and finishes: pocket shapes, lapel widths and lengths, and trim, as well as in the Edwardian style jacket closures. While every other designer played with volume, Pilati mostly stayed with the body-con silhouette, which emphasised the slender frames of youth.
L anvin
Lucas Ossendrijver’s collection for Lanvin was a mix of the old and new, creating an ‘opposites attract’ paradigm that worked beautifully. Lucas gave the Lanvin man the essence of Berlin from the 30s and Savile Row tailoring made for the sportier side of suiting. The collection referenced 70s David Bowie’s ‘thin white duke’ and The Man who Fell to Earth, with fedoras cocked to the side and fitted overcoats reworked to body-con perfection. The collection was full of contrasts, especially in suiting with form-fitting jackets paired with wide-legged trousers, or boxy jackets worn over leggings.
Pau l Smit h
At Paul Smith the look was a distinctive hybrid of post-hippie 60s and the dawning of 70s glam rock with a dash of outer space thrown in. Smith showed this to great effect by taking his man on a space-inspired odyssey with metallic parkas with fur trim and with motorcycle cum ski pants perfect for a voyage into outer space. His boho-inspired Nehru collars and tie-less suit brigade gave off a relaxed boho luxe elegance with a hint of 60s London mixed in. Smith’s haphazard layering, outwear with leather elongated lapels and glazed metallic collars were glam yet functional, while his funnel-collar coats with toggle closures and three-button blazers cropped like bomber jackets paired with glam-rock fitted pants spoke to classic mixed with a twist for today.
Lanvin
Ann Demeu lemeest er
It was a modern day Edward Scissorhands meets nobleman for the F/W 2011 DemeuleSoft tailoring, sombre hues and sumptuous meester show. Ann showed her gentleman fabrics talked the talk and walked the walk relaxed elegance with a twist, providing him at Hermes. The collection was one that was with slashed cut-away waistcoats, moto modern elegance, languid yet directional for boots, suede gloves and overcoats with the house. Designer Veronique Nichanian lapels. Demeulemeester kept the silhouette worked magic with modernised classics, like body-conscious with pants that were fitted, her waterproof trench, as well as with luxury notably so at the calves. She took a trip down fabrics, notably the cropped crocodile jacket vintage lane with suiting that had a 60s with exaggerated lapels, factoring in what the London feel, but kept the brooding minimalhouse is known for — hides. The cosy knits, ism going with a dark palette, pairings of 40s-inspired outwear, along with the elegant waistcoats with riding boots and britches, suiting were spot on. However, the jumplayering, bleach-induced patterns, pinstripes suits, albeit forward and edgy, seemed forced and Johnny Depp-worthy vests. and not quite Hermes fare. news@khaleejtimes.com
Hermes
Christian Dior
Yves-Saint-Laurent
Jean Paul Gaultier