Volume 6, No. 44 ©SS 2014
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 17, 2014
SHOWERED WITH LOVE
100 expectant military moms treated to baby showers in Virginia, North Carolina
New and expectant mothers are treated to gifts, lunch and games at the “Star Spangled Babies” shower on Oct. 7 in Springfield, Va. C.J. LIN /Stars and Stripes
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Friday, October 17, 2014
MILITARY For more photos and a video from the baby shower, go to stripes.com
PHOTOS
BY
C.J. LIN /Stars and Stripes
Expectant mothers browse through baby items at the Star Spangled Babies shower on Oct. 7 in Springfield, Va. The event, hosted by nonprofit Operation Homefront, showered 100 military moms with gifts in Springfield and Fayetteville, N.C.
For military moms, baby shower is a gift BY C.J. LIN Stars and Stripes
SPRINGFIELD, Va. — Michelle Hicks is expecting, but she wasn’t expecting this. Hicks, who is seven months pregnant with a boy, was among 100 military moms treated to baby showers in Virginia and North Carolina on Oct. 7, getting free gifts, clothes, blankets, formula, supplements, carriers and other goodies for their little ones, plus some other freebies to pamper themselves. Fifty moms and mothers-to-be from nearby bases including Fort Myer, Fort Belvoir and Fort Meade were given a baby shower in Springfield, Va. Another 50 were treated in Fayetteville, N.C. “I did not expect this much,” said Hicks, who is married to a Coast Guardsman stationed at Fort Meade. “I’d probably cry (and say) ‘This is so sweet,’ but fortunately I’m in control of myself.” The showers, dubbed “Star Spangled
‘ Many military mothers do not have the
opportunity to be showered by their families. They don’t have the funds to travel home, they don’t have family here, local to them. So we started doing baby showers so the mothers could have the opportunity to be celebrated.
’
Roseanne Coleman director of programs for Operation Homefront Babies,” were hosted by Operation Homefront, a nonprofit aimed at providing financial assistance to military families, in partnership with consulting firm Booz Allen Hamilton. The events were a chance to give back to military families, whose earnings can be low and who endure hardships civilian families don’t have to face, according to Operation Homefront. “Many military mothers do not have the opportunity to be showered by
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their families,” said Roseanne Coleman, director of programs for Operation Homefront. “They don’t have the funds to travel home, they don’t have family here, local to them. So we started doing baby showers so the mothers could have the opportunity to be celebrated.” The women also get diaper bags, a bundle with essential baby items and a mother’s gift — a care package with lotions, candles and other beauty products. They then get to browse a baby
boutique and pick items such as blankets and onesies, some hand-made. “Many of these mothers have never had a shower and won’t have a baby shower,” Coleman said. “This will be the only baby shower that they have.” So far this year, the program has showered about 300 mothers who are married to active-duty servicemembers, wounded warriors or in the military themselves. It gives the expecting mothers a chance to find a support network and possibly even future play dates — all before the baby is born. “It’s nice to have other moms relate with their husbands working long hours and going away,” said Jamie Shanfield, who brought her four-weekold son Derek. The boy was named after her Marine husband’s brother, who was killed in Afghanistan. “It’s been very helpful just having people who are going through the same things,” Shanfield said. For more information, visit www. operationhomefront.net lin.cj@stripes.com Twitter: @cjlinSS
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October 17, 2014
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Assault prevention effort tailored to junior Marines ‘ Before this, they had sort of a
BY M ATTHEW M. BURKE Stars and Stripes
CAMP FOSTER, Okinawa — The lights dim and the training class settles in for a video that shows young men and women playing drinking games while music thumps in the background. A woman is pressured into doing a keg stand. A man acts violently toward her when she spurns his advances. Their friends do nothing. Later, the man corners the woman in an upstairs bedroom and rapes her. He adds to her shame by posting drunken photos on social media sites. The lights flick back on. The class sits silently. The chilling video would be well-suited to be shown on just about any college campus in America. Marine Corps officials are banking that it is equally suited for junior Marines to help curb sexual assaults in the ranks. “Step Up to Stop Sexual Assault” is a new Defense Department initiative being rolled out at Marine Corps installations around the world. The program is designed to give the Corps’ uniformed victim advocates the tools to get through to junior Marines about acceptable behavior and intervention techniques as bystanders. The program supplements the Sexual Assault Prevention and Response pre-deployment training and is now required
one-hour brief that was pretty much geared toward all members of the command, all ranks. So this one is specifically geared towards their ranks and their age group.
’
Sunny Street “Step Up to Stop Sexual Assault” instructor for lance corporals and lowerranking enlisted Marines, according to a Marine Corps statement. It provides a multitude of activities and multimedia tools that focus on situations that a young Marine is likely to encounter — such as the gym locker room or alcohol-fueled parties. “Before this, they had sort of a one-hour brief that was pretty much geared toward all members of the command, all ranks,” said civilian instructor Sunny Street. “So this one is specifically geared towards their ranks and their age group.” Step Up was implemented July 28 with the aim of tackling the Corps’ most glaring statistic: Approximately 90 percent of the sexual assault victims in the Marine Corps are ranked corporal and below, according to the 2013 Marine Corps Sexual Assault and Prevention Response Campaign Plan. The training was rolled out recently to the Corps’ uniformed victim advocates
‘ ...
I think it was well-scripted, well-directed, and the presentation was awesome because the young Marines can relate to those videos and scenarios ...
’
Master Sgt. Jeffery Hightower Marine Corps uniformed victim advocate
on Camp Foster as the final part of their 40-hour training course, which also includes guest speakers and role-playing from actual assault cases, Street said. The advocates will then provide it to small groups of no more than 30 junior Marines. Most of the advocates are staff noncommissioned officers. “They’re that level of leadership that the junior Marines and [noncommissioned officers] look up to,” Street said. “We want them to model the appropriate attitude for this, because we have young people that come into the Marine Corps as well as other branches of service and they have been pretty much saturated with the entertainment industry the first 18 years before they came, and that entertainment industry objectifies women and infantilizes men. It portrays and projects consent in a way that is completely inconsistent with the law, and so they’re having to re-educate based on what the law says and project a value system that’s consistent with the law.” One scenario is set in a bowling alley where a male lance corporal starts to grope a female lance corporal while showing her proper form. “LCpl Hart keeps shrugging him off,” the training materials say. “At one point, Hart gets up abruptly and says she needs to go outside and get some air. Moments
M ATTHEW M. BURKE /Stars and Stripes
Marine uniformed victim advocates at Okinawa’s Camp Foster review their materials during a recent Step Up sexual assault training session. The training is designed to teach the advocates how to reach junior Marines, who are the most atrisk group in the Corps. later, Barnes follows ... What do you (as a bystander) do or say?” A gym locker room scenario focuses on a Marine putting his genitals on another Marine as a prank. “What do you say and do?” the class is asked, as if they were bystanders. “Could you have done something sooner?” While it is too early to assess the program’s effectiveness, advocates said they expect it to be a success. “It’s targeting the behavior of the junior Marines, so I think it was well-scripted, well-directed, and the presentation was awesome because the young Marines can relate to those videos and scenarios that were in there,” said advocate Master Sgt. Jeffery Hightower. Street said expectations
for Step Up are similar to those for the “Take a Stand” training for noncommissioned officers. Once that training was implemented, reporting of sexual assaults increased, which military officials say is an indication that people who might have kept quiet are now willing to come forward. In the civilian sector, there is a direct correlation between increased reporting and the lowering of assaults because offenders know they will be caught. “I think bystander intervention is a concept in and of itself that I wished all of us appreciated and took to heart — and not just with this topic but with everything,” Street said. “This is a community issue and it’s about members taking care of each other.” burke.matt@stripes.com
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October 17, 2014 Friday, October 17, 2014
AFGHANISTAN
Afghan C-27s turned into $32,000 of scrap US-funded transport planes scrapped for 6 cents per pound BY TRAVIS J. TRITTEN Stars and Stripes
WASHINGTON — Most of the C-27 transport aircraft given to the Afghanistan military as part of a failed $486 million Defense Department program were locally scrapped for just $32,000, federal auditors said Oct. 9. The U.S. Special Inspector General for Afghanistan Reconstruction, or SIGAR, sent letters to the Pentagon requesting all documents related to the scrapping, reasons why it did not pursue resale, and why it did not seek a refund from the manufacturer of the Italian-made C-27s, also known as G222s, which were grounded last year following chronic maintenance issues.
“It has come to my attention that the 16 G222s at Kabul were recently towed to the far side of the airport and scrapped by the Defense Logistics Agency,” SIGAR head John Sopko wrote in the Oct. 3 letters. “I was also informed that an Afghan construction company paid approximately 6 cents a pound for the scrapped planes, which came to a total of $32,000.” The DOD ended the C-27 program in March 2013 after the Afghans could not maintain the aircraft or find spare parts. SIGAR launched an investigation in December. Sopko said he had personally seen the 16 aircraft on the tarmac at Kabul International Airport and was told that the remaining four were taken to Ramstein Air Base in Germany during the investigation. Since then, the DOD appears to have destroyed the Kabul-based C-27s. The Pentagon should explain
why alternatives to scrapping the aircraft were not pursued, such as flying the planes out of Afghanistan and reselling them abroad, Sopko said. “What efforts were made to return the aircraft to the manufacturer or to obtain a refund?” he wrote. The watchdog also wants to know whether any of the parts remain intact and may be recoverable. “I am concerned that the officials responsible for planning and executing the scrapping of the planes may not have considered other possible alternatives in order to salvage taxpayer dollars,” he wrote. The DOD and Air Force have until today to respond to SIGAR, according to the letters. SIGAR was created to oversee about $104 billion the U.S. has funneled into rebuilding Afghanistan in the 13-year war with the Taliban and al-Qaida
Photos courtesy of SIGAR
Top: Shredded G222 scrap is shown in Kabul, Afghanistan, in August. Above: Special Inspector General John Sopko inspects the abandoned fleet at Kabul International Airport in 2013. and has pointed to hundreds of millions in other wasteful spending in the past. In July, the auditor questioned DOD plans to begin sending C-130s, a similar type of transport aircraft, to the Afghan Air Force,
saying there was little evidence the aircraft are needed and last year urged the department to stop supplying the Afghans Russian-made helicopters. tritten.travis@stripes.com Twitter: @Travis_Tritten
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October 17, 2014
5
ALASKA EDITION
I urge you to support
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Charlie Huggins Retired Colonel, U.S. Army
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crossword I’M SCARED! By Mary Jersey ACROSS 1 Big blowout 5 Far from finely ground 11 Poseidon’s call 14 Baby bird of prey 19 Colored part of the eye 20 High monks 21 Emulate a kangaroo 22 Egyptian capital 23 Ripped 24 The worst player wins it 26 Statistical predictor 27 Ones spewing silly talk 29 Without partiality, as a judge 31 One of the inn crowd 32 Angry Birds, for one 34 Franklin or potbelly 35 Glamour magazine kin 38 “SNL” offering 40 Friendly quality 44 Scandinavian war god 45 Part of a femme fatale’s outfit 50 “Eureka!” alternative 51 Places to gambol 52 Volcano’s shape 53 Moving company’s fleet 54 Greeting from Down Under 55 A lot of pounds
56 Barnes & Noble, and others 60 Ryan of “The Beverly Hillbillies” 61 Formicaries 63 Feature of some skirts 64 Enjoys a bubble bath 65 In the ‘40s, many were big 66 Cold comparison 67 Seat-of-the-pants performance 69 Judgment payout 71 Shrek’s love 72 Those who transfer property ownership 75 Part-time employees, for short 76 Returned to where it came from, in a way 78 Gasp of delight 79 Cons’ opposites 80 First king of Israel 81 Make booties 82 French clergyman 83 “Long ___ ...” 84 Credits 88 Supermarket offering 89 Of inferior workmanship 91 Emergency vehicle’s alert 92 Jogs, to a horse 93 Ran at a red light 96 Chromosome pt. 97 PC character set 100 Unit in measuring population density 104 Lack of interest 108 A moving crowd
109 Speakeasy supplier 112 Shaving gel additive 113 Altar locales 114 Tokyo before it was Tokyo 115 Garfield’s girlfriend in the comics 116 “Apollo 13” grp. 117 Some impact sounds 118 Artist’s agent, informally 119 Matched up 120 Click with the fingers DOWN 1 Hit with the forehead 2 State under oath 3 “Buona ___” (Italian greeting) 4 Saturday night specials, e.g. 5 Couch potato’s choice 6 Easy-to-carry instruments 7 Cancel, to 116-Across 8 Belonging to actor Lowe? 9 Pig’s place 10 Psychic’s power 11 Blade in prison 12 Seeps 13 All in 14 Like standard music notation 15 Hollywood Bros. 16 Told a falsehood 17 Long-winged shore bird 18 Murderous barber Sweeney
25 Do 33-Down again 28 Payable on demand 30 Julia, Gordie and Elias 32 Associate of Tarzan 33 Plant 35 Upper ___ (now Burkina Faso) 36 “___ a Grecian Urn” 37 Panda’s dream meal? 38 Child’s winter vehicle 39 Rodless areas of the retina 41 Committed an error 42 Show gratitude toward 43 Helen or Isaac 45 Chide a child 46 Hammers and screwdrivers 47 Contents of some cartridges 48 Red deer 49 “Star Trek” rank (Abbr.) 54 It’s sometimes pulled while running 56 Finishes a book? 57 Kind of salt 58 Dress with a flare 59 Bygone Renault auto 60 Placed on Capri 62 Heavenly instruments 66 Garlicky sauces 67 Gum used as thickener 68 Tries to slim down 69 Mythical strongman 70 Step on the scales 71 Lou Gehrig’s number 72 The “A” in A.D.
73 74 76 77 80 82
Common sci-fi figure Garage relatives Vampire in flight From the same tree The current fashion Somalia’s citizenry, e.g. 84 Noted Gettysburg event 85 Bathroom fixture, for some 86 Vase with a base 87 It gets hot in a bag 90 Royal headwear 92 Kind of badge, cup or horn 94 Glowing coal 95 The “D” in LED 97 Hot temper 98 Public display of 97-Down 99 Hollowed, as apples 100 Playwright George Bernard 101 19th letter of the Hebrew alphabet 102 Bear in the air 103 Aerobatic maneuver 104 Bad-looking fruit? 105 Spirited selfassurance 106 Santa ___, California 107 Kind of tide 110 PC site, perhaps 111 Stat for a pitcher
Last week’s answers
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Hawaii base battling beetle infestation BY WYATT OLSON Stars and Stripes
FORT SHAFTER, Hawaii — There’s a war raging at Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam, and the Navy is bringing in real firepower. The enemy is an invasive insect from Southeast Asia called the coconut rhinoceros beetle, whose destructive munching on palm trees has the potential to disrupt coconut and date farming in Hawaii — and in California, if the exotic pest is inadvertently carried to the mainland. State agencies and the military have spent about $5 million this year to detect and eradicate the beetle, which can grow to 3 inches long and about half that width. The first beetle was discovered in December in a green space on the base that borders Honolulu International Airport. The Navy’s share of the eradication expenses is about $2 million, according to Tom Clements, a Navy Region Hawaii spokesman. Of primary importance is finding and destroying the beetles’ breeding areas — ideally dead and decaying plant and tree matter. On Oct. 8, workmen at the base were busy loading logs from roughly 120 palm trees, cut from around the base, into a huge incinerator called an air curtain burner. The truck-sized implement uses a diesel-run blower that continuously forces the fire’s smoke back through the incinerator. That reduces emissions and elevates the fire’s heat up to 1,700 degrees Fahrenheit, said Rob Curtiss, a pest-control expert with the Hawaii Department of Agriculture. Curtiss said about 180 of the thousands of palm trees on the base had been identified as damaged by beetles. Most of those have been cut and burned, but roughly 50 have been left standing. “We want to keep some for pesticide testing,” Curtiss said. “What we’ve noticed is that once a tree gets damaged,
it tends to get repeated damage, so it becomes more attractive to the beetles. We can use those as test sites for trying to find some of these pesticides that might be effective.” The incinerator now in use was purchased by the Hawaii agriculture department. The Navy is buying two to three for long-term use. “Ideally, we don’t want any more plant material to leave the base,” Curtiss said. That means all grass State clippings, leaves, agencies branches and and the U.S. tree remains will be either burned military have or composted spent about in an enclosed method that rais$5 million es the mulch’s this year to temperature to at least 170 degrees detect and Fahrenheit eradicate — which is hot the coconut enough to kill the beetles, Curtiss rhinoceros said. beetle. It’s not known how the beetles arrived in Hawaii, although given the proximity to the airport, it is assumed they most likely hitched a ride aboard the running gear of a plane. Flights routinely arrive here from places where the beetles are commonly found, such as Thailand, Japan and Guam, Curtiss said. More than 2,000 monitor traps have been installed on or below palm trees throughout Honolulu. They are baited with a pheromone, a solar-powered UV light and a hunk of smelly, rotting palm wood. About 2,000 immature and adult beetles have been discov-
W YATT O LSON /Stars and Stripes
An air curtain burner is being used to burn palm trees from around Joint Base Pearl Harbor-Hickam in an effort to thwart the invasive coconut rhinoceros beetle. ered so far, he said. That number jumped significantly earlier this month when inspectors discovered a breeding ground on Puuloa
Range Training Facility, a Marine Corps rifle range across the bay from the airport. Curtiss said they found about 500 larvae-stage beetles in a truckload-size pile of mulch. “We were talking to one of the patrol guys there, and he said there’s some mulch piles back in the woods on the range that you can take a look at,” Curtiss said. “We’d been catching beetles in that area and identified that there had to be someplace around there we hadn’t found yet.”
HOUSE DISTRICT 11 – ON NOVEMBER 4: CHOOSE HUGHES! 38 year Alaskan Married 36 years 4 children and 5 grandchildren Family tradition of military service Active in the Mat-Su community she loves
Your effective voice in Juneau, working on the issues that matter to you. Shelley sponsored 1 and co-sponsored 3 bills supporting Military and Veterans that passed the legislature.
Enhancing Education Promoting Public Safety Growing Alaska’s Economy Ensuring Job Opportunities Building Local Infrastructure Protecting Personal Privacy and Freedoms Advancing Responsible Resource Development
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Representative Hughes (R - Greater Palmer) Member, House Military & Veterans Affairs
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October 17, 2014
ALASKA EDITION
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F V A L D E Z I R E A A E Y I X U K S M
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E O M W A A T A J G S O R L X N D O S I
L B M O J N D S E H D R R O K I A I K F
Untitled I N G F R A H L Q U D E H Y Q L Q A P O A D A P U H E Z L L I M H S U R L J G X T D T F C O N S I E W E S A Z N S E Y C L T A I S H T B E W Q D A G W A C V G B
sudoku
N R Z L E O H W D A A T P L I S I N Y C
D A X H A I F A L F R R C O G S E C A U
D E L O K B F S O A C U C B E U P S V T
Y P D G S C N D G C R C P B T R V A Z E
V E M A A A W U D B I T H K A B G J V P
E R L O L J E T Q A A I F V R I S O J K
X D C G A T T U J O L O T B T A T V L M
Yukon GoldRush LendLeaseAct PearlHarbor irStrips Canada Alaska LaddField Alaska-Canada Highway (Alcan) Aircraft Russia DawsonCreek Fairbanks Kisha Attu Skagway Whitehorse Yukon Canada Dawson Creek Whitehorse rmafrost Sawmills Gold Rush Alaska Fairbanks Valdez Lend Lease Act Ladd Field Strategic Permafrost Pearl Harbor Refueling Kisha Sawmills Construction Aircraft Attu Air Strips Russia Skagway
C I A A X V H P L P C N F V S W O B J L Construction Refueling Strategic Valdez
Previous week’s answers
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October 17, 2014
ALASKA EDITION
>> EXPLORE ALASKA
The Alaska Highway and its History The Series-Part 1 By Major Mike Dryden USAR Ret.
For a great many military members based in Alaska, the trip up the Alcan Highway was just a tease for what the great state of Alaska had in store for them during their tour of duty.
Since the Yukon Gold Rush days, a road from the lower 48 states (outside) to Alaska had been discussed but it took WWll to jump start the project. The Lend Lease Act of 1941 which authorized the transfer of military equipment to our allies before the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor necessitated the construction of a land link between air strips in western Canada and Alaska. These airfields were refueling and maintenance points for aircraft being flown to Ladd Field (now Fort Wainwright) from the contiguous 48 states. Once in Fairbanks, Russian pilots would continue the journey to the Soviet Union, our ally at the time. Several routes were considered but the Dawson
Above: “Alaska Highway 1” by Luigi Zanasi Following page, lower left: A caterpillar tractor with grader widens the roadway of the Alaska Highway, 1942
Creek, BC to Fairbanks was chosen for strategic reasons. The coastal routes were considered to be too vulnerable from a seaborne attack as the Japanese invasion of Kisha and Attu later demonstrated. The 1500 mile project had to be built over and around the permafrost, the Canadian Rockies, muskeg, lakes and rivers that lay in its path. The War Department decided on a three prone construction approach with crews beginning at each end plus a Skagway to Whitehorse road and pipeline. Army engineer regiments were disembarked at Valdez, Skagway and Dawson Creek in early spring of 1942 to begin the most ambitious United States project since the Panama Canal.
Standing Up for Alaska’s Veterans Dan Sullivan’s “Promises Delivered Project” is a 5-Part Plan to Stand Up for our Veterans: 1.
Reducing and eliminating the huge backlog of VA benefits and ensuring the timely delivery of benefits that veterans have earned
2.
Securing health care benefits for veterans that are fair, sensible, and a relief from Obamacare’s mandates
3.
Ensuring adequate remote delivery of services for veterans throughout Alaska
4.
Ensuring that members of the military who are targeted, killed, and/or wounded because of their status as U.S. military members are given the same benefits as if the attack had occurred in a “combat zone”
5.
Creating economic opportunity to help our veterans get good jobs at good wages
“America’s veterans have earned their benefits, through hard work, dedication, and sometimes the ultimate sacrifice. In an era where trust in our national government has plummeted, there is no more important issue than keeping faith with our veterans. It is critical that we safeguard and respect veterans in a special manner; as Alaska’s next United States Senator, I will do so.” —Dan Sullivan
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October 17, 2014
9
ALASKA EDITION
>> EXPLORE ALASKA a l c a n p t . 1 Over 12,000 Army troops were assigned to the project with a goal of completing the highway within a year. Included in this deployment were four Colored Engineer Regiments of mostly conscripted black southern troopers who would challenge the validity of the Army’s policy of not assigning southern colored soldiers to cold weather climates and who would pave the way for the integration of our armed forces by President Truman in 1948. The goal of punching a pioneer road to Alaska would challenge every person and piece of equipment deployed for this vital project. New methods of dealing with permafrost laden ground and bodies of water that vacillated in depth had to be invented on the spot. Methods for temporarily stabilizing the quagmire of wet soil found in areas of permafrost were
tamed by laying small trees that had been felled across the mud resulting in a method called corduroying. Temporary sawmills were set up to saw and mill the timbers needed to span the many rivers and streams. What seemed like good roadbed would turn out to be muskeg. When the spring sun thawed the ice, the resulting bodies of water had to be circumnavigated. And for goodness sake, let’s not forget the mosquitoes and bugs that were so ubiquitous. Logistical support for personnel and repair parts for the equipment was disrupted almost every day. Cannibalization of unserviceable graders, dump trucks and bull dozers for repair parts was the norm and essential if the project was to be completed on time. For years to come, the rusting carcasses of stripped equipment would stand as a tribute to the sacrifices made during construction.
CARS TRUCKS CARS VANS TRUCKS
In future segments, I will cover all the unique problems and the solutions the troops used to get the job done. Lives and limbs were lost during the construction of the Alaska-Canada Highway. However as any of us who has traveled the length of the ALCAN from Dawson Creek, BC to Fairbanks can attest the Alcan Highway stands as a monument to the American spirit and the “Can Do” attitude of the US Army.
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ALASKA EDITION
October 17, 2014
October 17, 2014
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Friday, October 17, 2014
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VIETNAM AT 50
Hoan Kiem Lake, in the center of Hanoi, draws tourists and residents alike, serving as the Vietnamese capital’s version of New York’s Central Park.
Three-wheel pedicabs known as cyclos give tourists a zippy and effortless way to take in Hanoi’s attractions.
BY PAUL A LEXANDER Stars and Stripes
H
anoi, Vietnam, is a study in contrasts, a bustling but laidback city that has worked hard to become a tourist attraction based on French colonial influences that fuse with Southeast Asian tastes and traditions. Women sell fresh baguettes from baskets balanced on their heads as they walk past shops offering steaming bowls of Vietnam’s ubiquitous pho. Lovely tree-lined streets, a thriving Old Quarter packed with shops and a legendary lake that serves as the capital’s heart provide plenty of attractions. Hanoi also is a steppingstone to the towering limestone islands of Ha Long Bay — listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO — to the east and the colorful Hmong people in the cooler highlands to the north. This is a city made for walking, shopping and soaking up the sights by day and hitting an array of fine restaurants at night, capped by strong coffee and dessert at sidewalk cafes or cheap draft beer on plastic stools at the crowded and boisterous bia hoi outdoor bars. Not long ago, Hanoi’s traffic consisted mostly of bicycles. With incomes steadily rising, it’s become a chaotic beehive of constantly swerving motorbikes mixed with new, small cars and smoke-belching trucks. With few traffic lights, it can be intimidating for pedestrians just to cross the street. The rule for neophytes is to take a deep breath, walk at a steady pace, and traffic
Read more about the Vietnam War and the cultural changes that surrounded it at stripes.com/vietnam50
PHOTOS
will work its way around you. Don’t hesitate as the motorbikes whiz by inches away. Hoan Kiem Lake is the starting point for visitors and residents alike. Legend has it that a Vietnamese emperor was given a magical sword there by a huge turtle. The sword was used to defeat an enemy horde, and the emperor then returned the sword to the turtle. Sightings of that turtle’s offspring became so rare that people thought the species had possibly died out until one was spotted recently. It’s still un-
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PAUL A LEXANDER /Stars and Stripes
Hanoi’s streets bustle with life. Cafes and restaurants spill over into the sidewalks, leaving pedestrians with a maze to negotiate while avoiding the crazy traffic. clear how many are in the lake. Located in the middle of the city, the lake area wakes up early as residents head there for tai chi and other exercises amid the relative tranquility. They’re soon joined by commuters on two wheels and tourists on foot, in three-wheel bicycle taxis called cyclos or aboard a fleet of new opensided electric minibuses. Coffee shops and cafes surround the lake; there’s even a KFC at one end, though it serves rice instead of fries. There are almost as many
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art galleries with a variety of styles and price ranges, starting with simple but colorful watercolors and sketches that are cranked out in an hour or so and working their way up to lacquered paintings that take weeks or even months to produce. There’s even a segment of artists who can crank out an oil copy of a family portrait or a masterpiece like the Mona Lisa in a day or two. Other shopping choices, particularly handcrafts, compete to empty the tourist’s
wallet. Silk clothing and ties make excellent gifts, and though prices have risen in recent years, there are still bargains to be found. For a truly distinctive memento, consider a custommade ao dai, the flowing silk tunic worn over loose pants for women. It’s so form-fitting — the motto is that it covers everything but hides nothing — that it requires up to 24 measurements. The process of levying property taxes based on frontage has created a picturesque landscape of tall, narrow houses and hotels. There has been something of a building boom in tourist accommodations, ranging from dorm room beds starting at $6 a night up to luxury hotel chains. In between are a batch of boutique hotels with rooms going for $40-$60. SEE PAGE 12
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VIETNAM AT 50 FROM PAGE 11
Parts of Hanoi were reduced to rubble by aerial bombardments from U.S. aircraft during what’s known here as the “American War” that followed a war of independence that ended French colonialism. But the remnants are few. There is a war museum, and the infamous Hanoi Hilton prison that once held U.S. prisoners of war has been cleaned up and turned into a museum, too. The body of communist revolutionary leader Ho Chi Minh — reportedly embalmed by the same Russian experts who preserved Russia’s Stalin and North Korea’s Kim Il Sung — lies on display elsewhere in the city. Lines are frequent for Vietnamese waiting to see it. Signs of the ruling Communist Party’s control are subtle on the surface given the capital’s obvious capitalist leanings. One is St. Joseph’s Cathedral, on a side street near
the lake. The ornate Catholic church symbolizes the government’s ambivalent attitude toward religion, which it sees — along with the country’s fanaticism for soccer — as positive unifying factors. But it is uncomfortable about people putting God before patriotism. Leaving Hanoi gives way to patches of lush green rice paddies that are largely cultivated
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the same way they have been for centuries with an irrigation system run on back-breaking muscle power by farmers in conical hats. For day trips, the city is surrounded by a ring of villages specializing in one product. There’s a pottery village and a silk village; the latter is particularly popular because of the bargains that can be found there in all manner of silk textiles and displays of the production process, starting with silkworms. For longer excursions, Ha Long Bay is good for at least an overnight trip, but consider the northern highlands. The Hmong culture is distinctively different, and there’s a good travel package that includes a Friday overnight on a special train with couchettes for sleeping, Saturday at a resort hotel and Sunday night by train back to Hanoi, where the smell of those baguettes overwhelm the train station at dawn. alexander.paul@stripes.com
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October 17, 2014
13
ALASKA EDITION
code breaker In these Code Quotes from America’s history, each letter given is a code consisting of another letter. To solve this Code Quote, you must decode the puzzle by replacing each letter with the correct one. An example is shown. A ‘clue’ is available if you need extra help. Example: G E O R G E W A S H I N G T O N Is coded as: W J A M W J G I T C X Z W F A Z E U
X A A U K B
A U Z C K U
B O U
C G X S P U G X Y S U B O U
H S T
K P W O B A .
B O U
I K H D P G Z U
I U H I S U K P W O B A .
T H W F X
A C A G
P G E U
B I X B
Y .
H V
B O U
W H D U K G F U G B
U G Q H M F U G B
B O K H W
B H
W H D U K G U G B A
H V
B O U
Z X G
B H
B O U P K
E P G T A
W P D U
X G B O H G M
Hint: This American civil rights leader learned to read and write at the age of three, but her education was interrupted when her family was financially ruined in the Panic of 1837. Last week’s answer: “The great advantage of our system of government over all others, is that we have a written constitution, defining its limits, and prescribing its authorities.” Henry Clay
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Alaska’s Energy/America’s Values paid for and is responsible for the content of this advertising. Not authorized by any candidate or candidate’s committee. www.energyandvalues.com
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Military wives’ thrifty way before it was nifty
MILITARY
Bridge joining Bahrain base T and port hailed as time-saver BY H ENDRICK SIMOES Stars and Stripes
MANAMA, Bahrain — A much-anticipated bridge connecting the main base of the Naval Support Activity here to its port facility across a major roadway opened earlier this month. There was little fanfare for the opening of the $8 million, 400-foot-long tied-arch suspension bridge; however, it’s being hailed as a vital piece of infrastructure for the base. Sailors said they had been counting the days until the bridge opened. “It makes for easy access to base facilities for daily use,” said Chief Petty Officer Shawn Flynn, who works on the port side of the base known as NSA-2. He and another sailor used the bridge at lunch time Oct. 9 to take care of errands on the main base, which has many of the support facilities such as medical, administration and the Navy Exchange. “It is absolutely a qualityof-life improvement that the sailors have been wanting,” said Capt. David Meron, base commander. He said it also improves safety and security by taking buses, vehicles and bicycles off Bahrain’s busy roads. The opening of the bridge was expected last month but was delayed without explanation. U.S. officials never
STEVEN SMITH /Courtesy of the U.S. Navy
The new bridge connecting the main base of the Naval Support Activity in Bahrain to its port facility is now open.
Max D. Lederer Jr., Publisher Terry Leonard, Editor Robert H. Reid, Senior Managing Editor Tina Croley, Managing Editor for Content Amanda L. Trypanis, U.S. Edition Editor Michael Davidson, Revenue Director CONTACT US 529 14th Street NW, Suite 350, Washington, D.C. 20045-1301 Email: stripesweekly@stripes.com Editorial: (202) 761-0908 Advertising: (202) 761-0910 Daniel Krause, Weekly Partnership Director: krause.dan@stripes.com Additional contact information: stripes.com
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contract between both facilities will result in an additional $130,000 in savings per year. Meron called the bridge “a huge step forward.” It connects the main base not only to U.S. 5th Fleet’s minesweepers and coastal patrol ships along the waterfront, but also to 77 acres of leased land, where the Navy has several projects under construction. These include barracks to house more than 500 sailors that is slated to open next year. NSA Bahrain, home to the U.S. 5th Fleet, has about 8,200 U.S. personnel and is growing.
publicly explained the delay but indicated it was over a customs issue that was later resolved. The bridge reduces the travel time between both facilities from about 30 minutes to five minutes. Before the bridge opened, personnel had to go off base and travel through the city to reach the other facility. Personnel are allowed to walk, bike and use golf carts and authorized government vehicles to cross the bridge. Officials said the bridge will allow the base to reduce its vehicle fleet by 10 percent, which will save more than $500,000 annually. And the cancellation of the shuttle bus
simoes.hendrick@stripes.com Twitter: @hendricksimoes
This publication is a compilation of stories from Stars and Stripes, the editorially independent newspaper authorized by the Department of Defense for members of the military community. The contents of Stars and Stripes are unofficial, and are not to be considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. government, including the Defense Department or the military services. The U.S. Edition of Stars and Stripes is published jointly by Stars and Stripes and this newspaper. The appearance of advertising in this publication, including inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement by the DOD or Stars and Stripes of the products or services advertised. Products or services advertised in this publication shall be made available for purchase, use, or patronage without regard to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron.
© Stars and Stripes, 2014
hrift shops are now ter, designer blouse with tags vogue. Racks of used still attached, a replacement clothes are “vintage.” carafe for your coffee maker Furniture with a few — and advice on where to get scrapes and tatty décor items your hair cut. well past their prime are “reBaskets (with or without purposed.” handles), bags (cloth, paper It’s all the rage to recycle and plastic), boxes (fabric, and reuse. It’s hip to hang out metal or wood), balls (basket-, in thrift shops. But we were foot-, soccer or yarn) — and ahead of our time, we military news about the neighborhood spouses. We were buying and crafters and quilters groups. selling one another’s “shabby Sunglasses, large and round chic” misfit curtains when our or small and squinty; floppy civilian counterparts were hat for sitting at the beach; having their drapes custom souvenir snow globe from made at Sears. somewhere you’ve never been We were browsing through — and maybe a conversation the cast-off toys and books with a friend you haven’t seen from our friends and neighbors in a while. when everyone off base was Paperback books of every at Kaybee Toys and Waldendescription, bird cages, a hambooks. When everyone else ster cage with exercise wheel, was saving a few cents at Blue kitty litter boxes, dog kennels, Light Specials, military spouse leashes, collars — and the adclub thrift shops were raising dress of a good groomer. money in our communities Like the items on the shelves, and giving it away to libraries, the thrift store craze is nothing scout troops and college-bound new. It has students. Blame it on hard SPOUSE CALLS come and economic times. The rest of gone before. America has realized what In a few we’ve known for years: Thrift years boushops are treasure troves of tique thrift the cheap and useful, bazaars stores may of the bizarre and Bohemian fade again, — make that “Boho.” but like Thrift shops on military Goodwill installations are also centers and the Salfor community news, and vation Army, sometimes an offshoot of the it’s a safe bet Terri Barnes local grapethat military vine. You can spouses and Join the conversation with Terri at find items and our retail stripes.com/go/spousecalls information outlets to you need, “re-purpose, and some you recycle and didn’t know you needed. Take re-use” will soldier on. a stroll through your nearest We need a place to find spouse’s club emporium and the necessities of setting up you may find … Disney movies housekeeping at each new for a dime, a glass pitcher just assignment. We need a place like your grandmother used to to jettison our junk before an have, video games, an oversize overseas move. We could make wooden spoon and fork suitable a collective killing on eBay. Infor hanging — and a flyer for a stead we will continue donate base-wide barbecue. or consign the clothes our kids Chunky bracelets from the have outgrown and the rugs ’80s, clip-on earrings that are custom made for the homes even older, a mounted deer’s we’ve left behind. head, a shelf for the garage, One spouse’s household miniature secretary desk purge produces another’s — and a little local gossip. priceless find. In our case it A Superman costume for also turns out scholarships, new Halloween and a plastic pumpbooks, school supplies and a kin to go with it, a petticoat, a great place to run into friends sari, a dirndl, an obi, a Lazy new and old — oh, make that Susan from the Philippines, “vintage.” wine tasting glasses from Excerpt from “Spouse Calls: Provence, beer mugs from Messages from a Military Life” Munich and — and an invitaby Terri Barnes. Reprinted tion to Bunco. with permission from Elva Silverware caddy for a quarResa Publishing.
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BILL WALKER FOR GOVERNOR
Alaska’s Veterans deserve our respect and our support. The promises made to them need to be fulfilled. I will work to see that obligation honored. My dad was a Veteran of WWII having served in the Alaskan Scouts with Castner’s Cutthoats in the Aleutians. Donna’s dad was a Korean War Veteran. My brother, Bob, is a Veteran. We know very well, the sacrifices made by those who serve and the families who support them. ·
Veterans’ and their families deserve just as much recognition and help today as they did when they were active duty.
·
The effects of military deployment on family health, and for returning and redeployed soldiers are now well-established.
·
Families experience stress before, during and after deployment.
·
Spouses left at home face financial challenges, loneliness and additional parenting responsibilities.
·
Children experience anxiety and stress often lasting well beyond the initial deployment.
Our administration will be a friend to and a strong advocate for our Veterans and their families. We will strive for better access to and improvement of the services provided to these heroes and heroines. PAID FOR BY WALKER MALLOTT FOR ALASKA 731 N ST., ANCHORAGE, AK 99501
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