St Ives and trips in the vicinity
Julia Kaufhold with illustrations by Nicola Clark
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Food
And nevertheless, or maybe for this very reason, eating out in St Ives is a gourmet’s delight. But after culinary cornucopia even the most ardent of foodies like getting back to basics and enjoying some good old bread and cheese. Eating out in St Ives is expensive – there’s just no denying it. Skinflint thus recommends: Lower prices at or before certain times, so look out for earlybird menus and teatime or lunchtime specials (often advertised outside). Go out for lunch instead of an evening meal – the same dishes often much cheaper. BYO: In some restaurants in St Ives, even though they’re fully licensed, you can still bring your own bottle and pay the £1 to £2 corkage. Enquire at the restaurant beforehand! Cheap and cheerful: Most pubs offer very good bar meals, which above all come in generous portions.
RESTAURANTS What?
Why?
Interesting concept The Seafood Café Guests create their own menu here. Procedure: Select 1) Fish or meat, 2) Type of preparation, 3) Sauce (incl. strawberry & lime, peppers & mango, port & plum), 4) Type of potato (e.g. rocket & parmesan mash or early potatoes roasted in garlic and herbs). Because the concept is good and the fish couldn’t be fresher.
Food
Lunch (set dishes) 12–3pm, evening meal from 6pm. Do make a reservation! Evenings: Fish and meat £9 to £17 including potatoes and sauce (vegetables extra). 45 Fore Street, Tel. 01736-794004, www.seafood cafe.co.uk. A favourite haunt Porthgwidden Café More than a favourite restaurant or café – it is one of the most beautiful places in St Ives. That’s why many locals come here to read a book over a cup of coffee. Breakfast (e. g. scrambled eggs with smoked salmon for £5), wonderful snacks (highly recommended: cranberry & brie baguette with home-made chips and
27 When? How much? Where?
What?
92
Activities
What?
How much? When?
Where?
Tinners Arms Time seems to have stopped in Zennor’s only pub. It was built in 1271 of solid stone, and in the winter there are two open fires. There’s no loud music here, no TV sport and not even a mobile signal. Instead there’s tasty food and a terrace with a view of the Atlantic. Watch the sun set beyond the horizon! Main meals £6 to £15. In the summer Mon–Sat 11am–11pm, Sun 12– 10.30pm. In the winter closed between 3pm and 6.30pm. Lunch 12-2.30pm, evening meals 6.30– 9pm. Right in the middle of the village – you can’t miss it. Tel. 01736 796927, www.tinnersarms.com.
Activities
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Birds and dunes To Godrevy Point Distance: approx. 10 miles. NB: Walk there and return by taxi. Alternatively, to shorten the walk start in Hayle, i.e. drive (see below) or take the No. 14 bus to Hayle (15 min.) or the St Ives Bay Holiday Camp stop near the Towans (20 min.). Walk past Porthminster Beach on the coast path, which here is still asphalted, until after half an hour you reach the long, fine sandy beach of Carbis Bay. Trencrom Hill is ¾ mile south of Carbis Bay, and is one of the best vantage points in West Cornwall, offering views over St Ives Bay to the north and Mounts Bay to the south. Keep to the South West Coast Path, which now loops inland past Lelant to cross the River Hayle. On the road between Lelant und Hayle
128 pages 20 charming illustrations by St Ives-based artist 9 interviews and many insider tips from locals 6 street-maps and (walking) maps Many Internet and e-mail addresses Comprehensive index Strong binding
Getting there
Accommodation
Food
Culture
Beach
Activities
Shopping
Going out
Excursions
ISBN 978-3-940258-01-4 £ 5,99