Lonely Planet Florence & Tuscany Williams
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Florence & Tuscany
Contents
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Florence & Tuscany
Florence & Tuscany's Top 18
Need to Know
First Time Florence & Tuscany
What's New
If You Like…
Month by Month
Itineraries
Accommodation
Getting Around
Eat & Drink Like a Local
Activities
Travel with Children
Regions at a Glance
ON THE ROAD
FLORENCE
Neighbourhoods at a Glance
Galleria degli Uffizi
Duomo
Palazzo Vecchio
Basilica di Santa Maria Novella
Galleria dell'Accademia
Sights
Tours
Festivals & Events
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping
SIENA & CENTRAL TUSCANY
Siena & Central Tuscany Highlights
Siena
Opera della Metropolitana di Siena
Museo Civico
Chianti
Greve in Chianti
Badia a Passignano
San Casciano in Val de Pesa
Castellina in Chianti
Radda in Chianti
Gaiole in Chianti
San Gimignano
Monteriggioni
Volterra
Val d'Orcia
Montalcino
Pienza
Montepulciano
Montepulciano
Wine Tour of Chianti
Exploring the Val d'Orcia
SOUTHERN TUSCANY
Massa Marittima
Vetulonia
Pitigliano
Sovana
Sorano
Grosseto
Parco Regionale della Maremma
Orbetello
Monte Argentario
CENTRAL COAST & ELBA
Road Distances (km)
Central Coast & Elba Highlights
Livorno
The Etruscan Coast
Castiglioncello
Bolgheri
San Vincenzo
Suvereto
Golfo di Baratti
The Tuscan Archipelago
Elba
Capraia
NORTHWESTERN TUSCANY
Northwestern Tuscany Highlights
Pisa
Piazza dei Miracoli
The Apuane Alps & Garfagnana
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana
Barga
Bagni di Lucca
Carrara
The Versilian Coast
Pietrasanta
Viareggio
The Lunigiana
Pontremoli
The Via Francigena
EASTERN TUSCANY
Eastern Tuscany Highlights
Arezzo
Sansepolcro
Valle del Casentino
Poppi
Parco Nazionale delle Foreste Casentinesi, Monte Falterona e Campigna
Val di Chiana
Castiglion Fiorentino
Cortona
Go Slow in the Valle del Casentino
UNDERSTAND
Understand Florence & Tuscany
Florence & Tuscany Today
History
The Tuscan Way of Life
The Tuscan Table
Tuscany on Page & Screen
Art & Architecture
SURVIVE Directory A–Z
Climate
Customs Regulations
Discount Cards
Electricity
Embassies & Consulates
Food & Drink
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Health
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
Maps
Money
Opening Hours
Post
Public Holidays
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
Visas
Transport
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writers
SPECIAL FEATURES
Lazy Days
Medieval Masterpieces
Why Pisa Leans
Magnificent Monasteries
Tuscan Artists
Tuscan Architecture
Welcome to Florence & Tuscany
Withits lyricallandscapes, world-class artanda
superbcucina contadina(farmer's kitchen), the Tuscan experience isperfectly in symbiosis withthe land.
Perfect Landscapes
Tuscany has a timeless familiarity with its iconic Florentine cathedral dome, gently rolling hills dipped in soft morning mist and sculptural cypress alleys. But then, this regionein central Italy is postcard material. Golden wheat fields, silver olive groves and pea-green vineyards marching in sharp terraced rows on hillsides form a graceful prelude to soul-soaring medieval hilltop villages, mountain ranges and fecund forests in the north, and a garland of bijou islands beaded along the coastal south. Get out, explore, hike and ding your bicycle bell, as this rousing landscape demands.
Sensational Slow Food
No land is more caught up with the fruits of its fertile earth than Tuscany, a gourmet destination whose residents spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about, discussing and consuming food and wine. Local, seasonal and sustainable is the Holy Trinity and Tuscans share enormous pride in the quality of their produce. Tuscan travel is grassroots: to wineries to taste blockbuster wines like Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano; to a family-run pastificiotradizionalewhere artisan pasta is cut by hand; and road trips in quest of the best bisteccaallafiorentina(chargrilled T-bone steak). Buonappetito!
Living History
Ever since the Etruscans dropped by to party and stayed, Tuscany has seduced. The Romans stocked their grain silos here, Christians walked stages of a medieval pilgrimage route, and Napoleon plundered art (and suffered terribly in exile in a beautiful neoclassical villa with fig trees and sea view on the paradisiacal island of Elba). Florence's historic churches and monuments were a key stop for British aristocrats on the Grand Tour in the 19th century – and remain so. And at sundown when the River Arno turns pink, whether you like things old-fashioned and simple or boutique chic, know that this handsome city will oblige.
Florence | Brian Kinney/Shutterstock ©
An Artistic Powerhouse
Then there's the art. And, oh, what art! The Etruscans indulged their fondness for a classy send-off with exquisite funerary objects, and
the Romans, always partial to puffing up their own importance, left their usual legacy of monumental sculptures. But it was during the medieval and Renaissance periods that Tuscany really struck gold, with painters, sculptors and architects creating world-class masterpieces. Squirrelled away and safeguarded today in churches, museums and galleries all over the region, art in Tuscany is truly unmatched. Edgy street art in Florence and countryside sculpture parks bring the art scene right up to the 21st century.
Why I Love Florence & Tuscany
By Nicola Williams, Writer
Tuscany won me over at a farm in the Garfagnana. We were tucking into dinner when the farmer's wife rushed in mid-secondiand urged us to join her in the stable to watch a calf being born. Later, when she joyfully declared 'We'll call her Kaya after your daughter!' I was speechless. So my seven-yearold now has a cow in Tuscany and I the honour of being privy to yet another intimacy of this wildly diverse, soulful, earth-driven region. This (and its truffles, Florence, aperitivitradition, Renaissance art and Chianti wine) is why I love Tuscany.
Florence & Tuscany's Top 18
The Duomo, Florence
The duomo isn't just the most spectacular structure in Florence – it's up there with Rome's Colosseum and Pisa's Leaning Tower as one of Italy's most recognisable icons. Its polychrome marble facade is vast, striking and magnificent. But what makes the building so extraordinary is Filippo Brunelleschi's distinctive red-brick dome, one of the greatest architectural achievements of all time. Scale the steep, narrow staircase up to the base of the dome and peer down on the toy-like cathedral interior far below – then climb some more for a stunning city panorama.
AB_ICP / Alamy ©
Top Experiences
Piazza del Campo, Siena
Horses race around it twice a year, local teens hang out on it, tourists inevitably gasp on seeing it for the first time – Siena's strangely sloping, perfectly paved central piazza is the city's geographical and historical heart, staked out since the 12th century. Presided over by the graceful Palazzo Comunale and fringed with bustling cafe terraces, Piazza del Campo is the finest spot in Siena to promenade, take photographs and lap up the soul-soaring magic of this unique, gloriously Gothic and architecturally harmonious city.
Cezary Wojtkowski / Shutterstock ©
Top Experiences
Chianti
This ancient wine region is the Tuscany of postcards, where cypress alleys give way to pea-green vineyards and silver olive groves, honeycoloured stone farmhouses and secluded Renaissance villas built for Florentine and Sienese nobility. Luxurious accommodation and the very best of modern Tuscan cuisine provide the ingredients for an idyllic short escape – peppered with romantic walks and road trips along narrow green lanes to wine cellars for tastings of Italy's bestknown wine, the ruby-red, violet-scented Chianti Classico.
Prangnarin Wongpunya / Shutterstock ©
Top Experiences
Uffizi Gallery, Florence
Few art galleries evoke such an overwhelming sense of awe and wonderment as the world-class Uffizi, at home in a 16th-century Medici palazzoin Florence. Vast, labyrinthine, architecturally magnificent and rich in history, the building alone stuns. Add to this an art collection chock-full of Renaissance masterpieces, with works by Giotto, Botticelli, Michelangelo, da Vinci, Raphael, Titian and Caravaggio all jostling for the limelight, and you'll know you've arrived in art-lover heaven. Allow ample time to savour slowly, in several bite-sized visits if need be.
Vereshchagin Dmitry / Shutterstock ©
Top Experiences
Flavours of Tuscany
'To cook like your mother is good, but to cook like your grandmother is better' says the Tuscan proverb. And indeed, in foodie Tuscany age-old recipes are passed between generations and form the backbone of the local cuisine – a highlight of any Tuscan trip. Devour feisty T-bone steak in a family-run trattoria such as Mario by Florence's central food market, savour modern Tuscan fare amid a sea of ancient Antinori vines at Rinuccio 1180, shop at local markets bursting with seasonal produce and wish fellow diners 'Buon appetito!'
KiltedArab / Shutterstock ©
