NOV 2013 NO 20 JAN 2014 NO 21
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LOST
s a er
vintage clothing, costumes, props and antiques
1511 W. Howard St. Chicago, il (773) 764-7400 2| STITCH
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Contents 10.
PLEASURES A few of STITCH’s favorite (dream) items
12. PROFILE “NU Takes Chicago” by Kelly Gonsalves, Carrie Shin, and Lizzey Johnson 16. PROFILE “A Day in the Life of Northwestern’s Most Famous” by Lizzey Johnson 22 . COVER SHOOT “Burlesque” by Alaura Hernandez 32. FEATURE “Selfie-Consciousness” by Erica White 34. COLUMN “London Calling” by Helen Zook 4| STITCH
36. FEATURE “Inked” by Mackenzie Maxson 40. SHOOT “Breaking All the Rules” by Christine Chang 46. COLUMN “Meanswear Glossary” by Luke Zhang and Steven Bennett 50. COLUMN “Style Literacy” by Jacob Roth 52. SHOOT “Fashion Through the Eras” by Lily Allen and Jalissa Gomez 58. PROFILE “Chic City Fashion” by Michelle Chang 60. STYLE COLUMN “Edgy Accessories for the New Year” by MacKenzie Broderick 62.
STYLE COLUMN “Internship Frenzy” by McKenzie Maxson
66.
SHOOT “Minimalism to the Max” by Jalissa Gomez
72.
PROFILE “Cozy with a Cause” by Junnie Kwon
76.
2DO Art Review by Steven Bennett
78.
LAST WORD “The Perils of Personal Style” by Abby Reisgner
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Alyssa Clough editor-in-chief Omaha, NE Journalism, International Studies
I recently read that you really start to create your own style when you have developed a sense of who you are, what you’re all about, and I whole-heartedly agree. The moment I stopped caring about being wrong and started to explore the person I wanted to become was when I truly started to appreciate the art of getting dressed. What I wore each day became a form of self-expression instead of a way to just look nice or fit in. I could be anyone! Do anything! Each day was another opportunity to transform into a new character, to try on a costume inspired by a facet of my unfolding personality. I could be a polite lady in pale pink and ballet flats, a bad ass in too-short cut-offs and Ray Bans, or just an ordinary girl from Nebraska in her coziest flannel and blue jeans.
We have the capability of limitlessly changing what image we project to the world, and that is an aspect of style that continues to excite me. Nobody can tell you you’re wrong because experimenting and making mistakes is what life + Cherry Chapstick and fashion are all about. In this issue you will find staff + “Do Cool Sh*t” by Miki interpretations of the ever-elusive term ‘style’ (pages 46 & Agrawal 78), profiles of NU’s most confident and fashionable students + Pigtails and alumni (pages 12 & 16), and how to navigate those tricky + OPI Mrs. O’Leary’s business casual interview dress codes (page 62). With that, I am BBQ proud to present to you the January Style Issue of STITCH, where real women are represented, frivolous and relevant issues alike are explored and style tips are given, not enforced. Now that you are already following us on Instagram, check us out on Pinterest! We can be found on both platforms @stitchfashion.
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STITCH Editor-In-Chief Alyssa Clough MANAGING EDITOR Alexandra Adeli Creative DirectorS Nick Arcos, Samantha Brody, Carly Shapiro Treasurer Sonali Dasgupta Design Editor Rosalind Mowitt DESIGN Amanda Rodriguez, Heiwon Shin, Jenn White, Kaylah Sosa Photography Editor Alaura Hernandez Co-Directors of PhotoShoots Samantha Brody & Carly Shapiro STAff photographers Christine Chang, Jalissa Gomez, Lily Allen, Marina Vernovsky, Alix Kramer, Jacky Yang, Katharine Carrault, Cindy Joo, Ina Yang, Nick Giancola, Victoria Zapater, Saskia Wieskbron STREET TEAM Sean Su STYLING Kate Camarata, Peggy Garard, Annalise Sundberg, Beatrice Hagney, Iman Gultson, Jillian Sellers, Lauren Myers, Sarah Spellings, Alix Kramer, Angelene Sun, Katharine Currault, Katelyn Camarata MULTIMEDIA EDITOR Rachel Jones MULTIMEDIA Angelene Sun, Gemma Folari, Olivia Peace, Sarah Burton ONLINE EDITOR Rachel Nussbaum PRINT EDITOR Cathaleen Qiao Chen STAFF WRITERS Abby Reisinger, Amy Xu, Arabella Watters, Arielle Miller, Carrie Shin, Elizabeth Johnson, Erica Witte, Jacob Roth, Jessica Arnold, Karen Valencia, Karina Sirota, Kelly Gonsalves, Kylie Gilbert, Lakin Davis, Luke Zhang, Mackenzie Broderick, Mackenzie Maxson, Michelle Chang, Steven Bennett, Steffanee Wang, Junnie Kwon Director of FUNDRAISING AND ADVERTISING Sydney Lindsey DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONS Diana Armacanqui EXTERNAL RELATIONS Ashley Peterson, Adele Kuforiji, Anna Schapiro, Ava Steir, Blair Darrell, Caroline Levy, Emma Feder, Grace Jaworski, Jackie Martinhouse, Jenny Reinsdorf, Jenny Sussna, Jessica Weil, Kaylah Sosa, Lily Orlan, Mallory Bell, Megan McDowell, Neha Kumar, Nicole Byron, Sarah Burton, Tori Latham STITCH Magazine is published with support from Generation Progress & the Center for American Progress, found online at genprog.org.
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C O N T R I B U T O R S
Carly Shapiro photoshoot director
Nick Arcos creative director
Rachel Jones multimedia editor
Riverside, CT ECONOMICS, POLI SCI, BIP
HOUSTON, TX JOURNALISM
WALnut creek, ca rtvf, african american studies
+ Scandal + Sweet Potato Fries + Winter Whites + Wide leg pants + The Art of Racing in the Rain by Garth Stein
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+ American Horror Story + Hunter Hayes + Instax cameras + Truffle Fries + Patterned Socks
+ Wes Anderson + Leather Sleeves + Matte Nail Polish + James Vincent McMorrow + Benefit Mascara
C O N T R I B U T O R S
Rosalind Mowitt design editor
Sonali Dasgupta treasurer
Sydney Lindsey advertising director
Minneapolis, mn History, IMC
Memphis, tn biology, psychology
powell, oh psychology, art history
+ Angel Haze + Velvet Leggings + How to Be a Woman by Caitlin Moran + Big-ass scarves + “Dirty Dishes� from besidesdying.com
+ American Apparel winter leggings + White Moto leather jacket (True Religion) + Sea Salt Caramel gelato + Lorde + Black ballet flats with gold heels
+ Chain Chain Chained jewelry on Etsy + Old Polaroid Cameras + Peter Pan Collars on everything + Magic Man & St. Lucia + Vintage Sewing Machines
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PLEASURES EOS ORGANIC LIP BALM SPHERES, $2.99, TARGET.COM
MADEWELL EVERYDAY CLUTCH, $138.00, MADEWELL.COM
GRUMPY CAT NAIL ART DECALS, $5.00, ETSY.COM
THE FASHION BOOK, $45.10, AMAZON
FLUME, ALSO KNOWN AS HARLEY EDWARD STRETEN, AUSTRALIAN ELECTRONIC MUSICIAN AND DJ
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JEFFREY CAMPBELL LITA BOOTIES, $160, SHOP.NORDSTROM.COM
BITE BEAUTY HIGH PIGMENT MATTE PENCIL N POMEGRANATE $24, SEPHORA
KAREN WALKER HARVEST SUNGLASSES, $250, SHOPLESNOUVELLES.COM
KHAI KHAI T-REX CHARM, $2800, KHAIKHAIJEWELRY.COM
THE WES ANDERSON COLLECTION, $40.00, ABRAMSBOOKS.COM
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NU Takes on Chicago Carrie Shin, Kelly Gonsalves and Lizzey Johnson
It's undeniable that Northwestern students take Chicago for granted. Of course, we're subject to arduous course loads and demanding student groups, but those are barely excuses. After STITCH talked to a few thriving young alums who currently live in Chicago, we are all the more convinced to take on the city. Here's their intel on the Windy City and its gems.
Alex Paul Young, CLASS OF ‘12
BY CARRIE SHIN The first thing I notice about Alex are his nails: they are painted canary yellow with little white dots that run down the middle like buttons. When we sit down, he takes off his knit wool hat to reveal a small tuft of curly hair that sits upon the top of his otherwise close-shaven dark hair. The small pouf is dyed the same shade of yellow as his nails, hoisted up by a rubber band it looks like a fluffy cloud bathed in sunshine. And that’s just how Alex is — sweet, radiant, and undeniably colorful.
I’m focused on creating and making that happen as a job. My typical day usually consists of waiting tables in the morning then going to rehearsals. On the weekends I go to the performances. I work in the Queer scene so it’s a lot of clubs and bars. Current neighborhood of residence: Uptown How do you spend free time in the city? On Mondays at the Beauty Bar they have this thing called Salonathon, which is a carefully curated performance to
Current Occupation: I work with various Chicago theater companies like Witch Hazel and White Elephant. I write plays and work on design as well as doing performance art. I actually did a performance at the MCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) recently. Right now 12| STITCH
photo by Ray Whitehouse
Major: Theater with a minor in Creative Writing
showcase various genres — they’ll have an electronic poet, burlesque, a drag queen and Chances dances. Why Chicago? First, it has a great theater scene. In a lot of cities it’s very competitive but here it’s much more collaborative and ensemblebased—it’s about working with the people you love. It’s also relatively cheap to live here considering your access to everything. Also, it’s a pretty normal city but they do have these little pockets of weird that you run into. I got lost in this sketchy neighborhood looking for an after party I was supposed to go to and I walked into this warehouse where people were having a full on rave with the lights and everything. Those little pockets of weird make this city great. People here live as they choose. Favorite Restaurant:: Lula Café in Logan Square. They have a really good brunch menu. // Favorite Bars: Big Chicks, Berlin, Beauty Bar Favorite Place To Shop: Village Discount Outlet. They have stores in Andersonville and Logan Square. It looks like a Goodwill but the people who donate there must be crazy. I get my best pieces from there. I got this mesh pashmina with different color hearts sewn on it from there. Any advice to current students on how to enjoy Chicago? It really isn’t that far: the Metra takes 20 minutes. You should really explore —and not just downtown, all the different neighborhoods. Find an event that interests you and get there a little early or stay for drinks afterward to get to know the neighborhood. You’ll miss a lot by just staying on the Red line.
Jessica Barbakoff, ‘12
BY Kelly Gonsalves Jessica smiles and tells me she doesn’t know what’s in her future. During her years in education, passion came before practice: She immersed herself in the study of the arts without too much concern with where it would take her, and even after a year and a half out of university, moving from marketing firm to marketing firm, she shrugs without much fluster when asked about her career path. Even Chicago itself caught hold of her almost by chance. But as far as I can tell, the quaint, murmuring streets of Chicago seem to be the perfect background to Jessica’s soft smiles and effortless lifestyle.. Major: Art history with a business minor and the IMC certificate Current occupation: I just switched jobs. When I first graduated, for a year and a half I worked for an advertising agency, DraftFCB. I just made a career change about a month ago (and) switched over to a market research firm called GfK, and I’m an analyst for them. I’m doing qualitative research for brand positioning projects and also a lot of innovation work. Current neighborhood of residence: Lakeview – I love it there. A lot of people are my age. It’s a unique Chicago neighborhood because a lot of people my age can afford to have a really nice place,but it’s also a very personable neighborhood. How do you spend free time in the city? I think a lot of young alums actually end up hanging out with their friends in their apartments because it’s a way STITCH |13
it gives you the vibe of the speakeasy. It’s kind of all about Prohibition. They serve awesome cocktails, and it’s always packed on the weekends. Favorite place to shop: Michigan Ave has a lot of the typical stores that I would go to, but Lakeview and Lincoln Park has more boutique-y stores. So if the weather’s nice, I’ll go out and just walk around and go explore some of the boutiques.
to relax but still see people. When I go out, I usually like to spend my days on the weekends doing some kind of activity like going to the art museums, which I do a lot. The Art Institute – it’s the best. Why Chicago? My family’s from New York, so it was a tough decision for me. I’ve always sworn to myself that I’m going to live in Manhattan sooner or later (laughs), and I wanted it to be sooner. But I got a job here during winter quarter of my senior year, so it was kind of a one and done. I figured I’d explore it a little bit (and) try to save it up some money because Chicago’s a lot more affordable. Favorite Restaurant: I really like RPM. It’s a restaurant right around here in River North, and it’s the restaurant of Guiliana and Bill Rancic from the E! Channel. It’s a really amazing Italian restaurant. The food is fantastic; every single dish is really great. Also the ambiance is really swanky. It’s very elegant and always booked. Favorite Bar: Barrelhouse Flat, a speakeasy in Lakeview — a lot of really cool people. It’s very trendy. It has kind of an underground feel to it because 14| STITCH
Any advice to current students on how to enjoy Chicago? I would just tell them to explore. Even after living here for a year and a half in the city, I still haven’t seen all of the neighborhoods, and I haven’t gone to all of the beaches. I haven’t really just gone out and gotten off at a random El stop and explored the neighborhood. I think that could potentially be really fun. As a student, if you’re looking for a new experience, then Chicago is kind of an untapped resource.
Justin barbin, ‘11
BY Lizzey Johnson At the risk of sounding fanatic, I had heard the name “Justin Barbin” before I had even stepped onto campus. But upon arrival, I realized what I had believed to be a pundit’s discovery was actually just common knowledge; Justin Barbin is a household name. After moving to Chicago post-graduation, Barbin took a shot at opportunity and started his photography business. His skill has been noticed by impressive companies likeThe Huffington Post and Nike, but most special and commendable is his unwavering commitment to photographing hallmark Northwestern events even years after his matriculation.
spent surrounded by my closest friends.
photo by Sean Su
Why Chicago? The reason I went to Northwestern was because of Chicago, and I’m still in love with the city. There’s always some fault to find in every city, but with Chicago its faults really enhance its positives.Weatherwise, Chicago can be intolerable, but it just makes beautiful days more special. The majority of people here have that downto-earth quality for which Midwesterners are known and the amount of culture and events here is staggering. I enjoy visiting NYC and LA, but I love living in Chicago and being a Chicagoan. Major: Communication Studies with a BIP minor Current occupation: I run my own photography business and have photographed for The Huffington Post, Chicago Tribune, Nike, Illinois Governor Pat Quinn, as well as Northwestern. Current neighborhood of residence: Edgewater/Uptown. I’m right on the lakeshore and absolutely love it. I get to wake up to a view of the Chicago skyline and the beaches along Lake Michigan plus I get to see the sunset from my kitchen window. I’m surrounded by some amazing restaurants in an eclectic neighborhood. How do you spend free time in the city? If ever I have free time these days, it’s typically spent with friends either at a dinner date at some new place in the city or playing board games (currently obsessed with Settlers of Catan). I get hired to photograph a lot of parties and events all throughout Chicago, so when I have time to myself, I keep it pretty low key but meaningful with time
Favorite Restaurant: Cafe Ba-BaReeba, a Spanish tapas restaurant in Lincoln Park – get the bacon-wrapped dates or anything with goat cheese! Favorite Bar: Violet Hour in Wicker Park. I go to bars for the atmosphere and Violet Hour provides an elegant environment for an intimate drinking experience. People don’t come here to get drunk, they come here for the masterful cocktails crafted by mixologists. That sounds really pretentious and hipster of me, doesn’t it? Favorite place to shop: Topman is tailor fit for my size so that’s my go-to shop. Any advice to current students on how to enjoy Chicago? Spend time in Chicago when you’re not in school. Maybe spend a few days after finals to explore the city – get off at a random El stop! Summers in Chicago are the best – get a summer internship in the city and go to a street festival every weekend. There are so many different neighborhoods with every type of diversion you could ever want. STITCH |15
A Day in the Life of Northwestern’s Most Famous
Northwestern boasts a sizeable collection of campus celebrities. Thanks to the university’s milieu of meaningful extracurricular endeavors, students stretch wide wings across activities. A few of these just happen to fly in great style. Here we chronicle a Day in the Life of two of NU’s famous faces who are renowned for both their personal accomplishments and personal style. Though each is unique in his or her work and wardrobe, they each share a common and covetous trait: confidence. In the spirit of the New Year, STITCH wanted to start of by sharing these two stunners’ secrets to strutting so confidently down Sheridan Road. By Lizzey Johnson
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NANCY DaSILVA Senior // PWILD // NAR // Art History // Backpacks
Morning
9 AM: Senior Nancy DaSilva wakes up in her apartment she and her roommates have dubbed “The Naked Peacock Lady.” Displayed prominently is “a PWILD heirloom that’s a giant painted portrait of a naked woman done by a previous counselor,” she explains. “The ‘Peacock’ comes from our couch, which is a groovy black velvet couch with a gold-andblue peacock feather pattern.” She is typically off to her 11 AM Art History course, polishing the finishing touches of her major. What she’s wearing, however, is much less predictable. “Fashion is a costume. Every time we put on our clothes, we are channeling a different personality. My clothes represent my different personas.” She says, “I guess my wardrobe is a little PWILD, a little preppy and super groovy…
you’ll probably never see me in a plain black or white shirt.” She emphasizes her fondness for earrings, as well as for a pair of rust-colored pants that are routinely complemented by different blouses. But best of all is her role as the patron saint of backpacks. “The most important thing about my wardrobe is my backpack collection,” she says. I have 15 backpacks that I have been collecting since 9th grade. “Everyone in my high school had the same n av y JanSport backpack and I always wanted a bag that would
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make me stand out in the halls.” I collect them from everywhere I travel and I am always trolling the Internet for more cool backpacks. It’s like an addiction.” 1 PM: She goes from her Art History class to Al’s deli, her “place of work and the best deli in all of Evanston,” for lunch. You can typically find her eating and reading blogs, mostly Feministing, Jezebel, Bitch Magazine, and—“My all-time favorite”—LinkedIn.
Afternoon
Following her afternoon classes, DaSilva returns to her apartment to satisfy some of her most demanding duties as President of NAR (Northwestern Art Review). “I spend a lot of time on my email in the afternoons, keeping everything up to date and following up with people. For the Northwestern Art Review, I often have to schedule meetings with professors in the Art History and Art Theory & Practice departments, collaborating with the Block Museum or dealing with SOFO, which is
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a l w a y s bound to take longer than you expect,” she says. “I also work very closely with the Exec board, who are some of my really good friends, to plan events, update our website or publish our journal. We’re also building an app, so I spend a lot of time looking for funding for that and talking to app developers.” Still, her many tasks come secondary to her familial ties. “Every afternoon I call my parents and my sisters. It takes about an hour and a half, but I like to stay in touch with my family.”
Evening
6 PM: She then gets started preparing the themed dinner she’s cooking for her closest companions. “#SoupSunday is a must,” she says, in addition to her latest staple. “I recently made an insanely large batch of chili and I’m trying to offload it onto my friends.” After warm chili on cool Wednesdays in winter, she attends PWILD
“PWILD is my favorite part of my social life.“
class, the highlight of her week.
“PWILD is my favorite part of my social life. I live with PWILD counselors and I always keep up with my campers.” Whereas to most PWILD events she errs on the side of casual cool, she plays formal hostess in black pants and a great blouse, with big earrings and red lipstick. Still, DaSilva extends her social engagements past her connections to the Pre-O program. “I like to throw parties at my apartment; I have friends from all over campus so I like to bring them together.” Post-Soirée, what is the dynamic DaSilva up to? Reading, unsurprisingly. Well, somewhat reading. 12 AM: “I always listen to books
on tape to help me calm my thoughts at the end of the night. I’m currently listening to The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe.” DaSilva’s day may be jam-packed and pressure-heavy, yet she ends each night feeling cheerful and confident. “I think I get my confidence from only doing things that make me happy,” she says. “The advice that I give to my campers and the advice I would give to anyone is only to do things that make you happy. Try everything and then choose what you like the most and run with it. Succeed in the things you love.” As for people, she adds, choose wisely. “Only hang out with people who make you comfortable. Don’t waste time doing things or hanging out with people who don’t let you be who you know you are.”
Marlee rich Senior // Dolphin Show // Extreme Measures // Theater // Top Knots
Morning
9:30 AM: Find Marlee Rich leaving her quaint apartment on Library Place en route to her Ten AM acting class, and her apparel may strike you: below multiple levels of layers, her “beloved” combat boots, and a trademark top knot, she’s hiding a leotard, pre-set like a prop for her ballet class later that day. You’ll find her with mug in hand— Rich is a compulsive tea drinker during performance season—but what you’ll never find in it is what her Midwestern STITCH |19
self calls Pop. After acting, the vegetarian returns to her mid-campus residence to make an egg-white omelet for lunch (“I recently discovered I can make great omelets,” she touts) or stops by her sorority house to make a quick salad. But if she manages to spare a few minutes in the midst of her busy day, she’ll take full advantage. “If I’m lucky and have time and don’t have anything big to memorize or work on,” she says,” I’ll take a little cat nap!”
Afternoon
3 PM: Rich’s afternoon schedule is usually marked with a mélange of activities pertaining to her dual responsibilities as both the Director of the Dolphin Show and the President of Extreme Measures.
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“Most likely, I’m at a meeting with a designer or someone else for The Dolphin Show,” she says, adding that she also spends “a ton of time emailing. I might be answering emails about gigs for Extreme Measures or coordinating meetings and rehearsal plans for The Dolphin Show. Addtionally, I might be meeting with my Choreographer, Kendall Beeman, to collaborate on an ensemble number in Shrek or taking some time to work on blocking and scene analysis before rehearsal.” And amidst the crazy, if she manages to squeeze a minute of free time, you can find her doing one of her favorite pastimes, hot yoga.
Evening
5:30 PM: At night, Rich transitions her daytime look by swapping her favorite combats for small-heeled boots and a nice top (presumably ditching the leotard as well), taking down her hair and polishing the look with eyeliner and earrings. She, her roommates, and
their closest guy friends then take to Tapas, their favorite restaurant in Evanston. “We love the Sangria!” She exclaims. She also loves to venture further to The Chicago Diner in Belmont or Blind Faith Café, both of which, she says, “are amazing vegetarian restaurants.” But don’t be fooled by her dinner excursions—on most weekday nights, Rich finds herself too busy for anything more than Trader Joe’s à la carte. On weekday nights, she buries herself in the theater, holding rehearsals for The Dolphin Show from 5:30-10 then Extreme Measures from 10-midnight. 12 AM: Then, she adds, “sometimes I’ll have a meeting at midnight with a designer or scene partner for acting class.” Yeah, there definitely isn’t too much on her plate! If it’s a weekend, Rich is off to support one of her many theater major friends in a play or a cappella concert, and then is off to a party. You’ll find her dressed in a high-waisted faux-leather skirt with tights and a crop top, or a dazzling member from her “collection of bizarre pants” that she loves to wear. 1 AM: But when she returns home, its off
with the tight skirt and on with the loose tee, out of work mode and into her bed, where, “my favorite thing to do if I have time is a little trashy-TV show-Netflixbingeing.” It takes insurmountable courage to be an active leader in the plethora of co-curriculars Rich sinks her teeth into. Where did she develop the confidence to do it all? “A lot of very special people who have given me a lot of support along the way,” she says. She conjectures that the symbiotic combination to great leadership is putting all of your cards on the table while knowing when to both back down and fess up. “Take control of what you know that you should, and speak up when you have something to say,” she says. “That being said, know when it is time to let others take the lead and always own up to your mistakes. This way, you will gain the respect from others, and once you have that, it is easy to be confident.” She claims that she’s garnered this wisdom through time and trial. “The biggest thing I have learned is listening and learning how to work with people. Once you have this, confidence seems to come naturally.”
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Erica Witte
Selfie — When you type it in Word, there’s still a red squiggly line under the letters, but the word most often associated with a teenage girl pouting at her camera phone is now the Oxford English Dictionary’s 2013 word of the year. Although many pronounce the word selfie with a twinge of sarcasm, the action reveals a provocative connection between self-consciousness and social media. As Millennials in the information age, there exist two of us: one who lives in the real world and one who exists online. Whether this duplicate of us resides on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram — or all three and several more — is irrelevant. We may have the same name, looks and interests, but our social media twin smiling back at us from the selfie shot is nothing like us. We work aimlessly to widen the gap between the two of us, ensuring what we put on social media isn’t actually indicative of what we look like or act like in real life. It stems from a need to present our best selves. Because, if we can control how our best self looks and acts, why wouldn’t we? 32| STITCH
According to Dr. Renee Engeln, a psychology professor at Northwestern, it’s only natural that Gen Y girls would put heavy efforts into creating a more perfect, virtual self. “We all live in this world where women are taught that their appearance is of utmost importance, and the images we see in the media are photoshopped, and manipulated and made perfect,” Engeln said. “It’s not fair to expect women to live in this world and opt out of that game.” We’ve all engaged in this game of adjusting a photo’s brightness to conceal blemishes and adding filters to appear cooler. We feel as though we’ve won by securing control over which of our shots are released into cyberspace. That’s why we adore the selfie. We can trick our network into thinking we have permanently unblemished skin, glossy hair, runway-worthy outfits and Crest-commercial smiles. The real trouble comes in when someone else is taking our photo. At NU, the photographer behind the camera is usually Justin Barbin (check out his dish on Chicago
on pg 15), an alum. Although his photos capture infectious dance music, beautiful people and good times, his albums are known to throw sorority girls, his typical subjects, into a panic every time he uploads them to Facebook. “When the pictures come up, then people talk about [them], and they’re like, ‘oh, I look so bad in those Justin Barbin pictures,’” said Samantha Spoll, sophomore in the School of Communication and a member of Kappa Alpha Theta. The loss of control in deciding which effects and photoshop tricks would best suit our more perfect virtual image makes us nervous and sends us into an untag frenzy. Barbin, however, said he doesn’t understand why people react to his pictures that way. “My service is showing the best sides of people,” he said. “I love it when people see and appreciate their beauty.” When we trust a selfie more than a professional photographer to capture our beauty for social media, there’s a problem. “Facebook is our own worst enemy sometimes,” said Spoll, who often attends parties that Barbin photographs. “It’s too much time thinking about yourself.” For that reason, the theater major deleted her profile for a few months to take a break from the exhausting task of maintaining a perfect online presence. Vacationing from social media sounds like heaven, but we can all agree it would be akin to giving up chocolate, or something else of that delightful but dependent nature. Facebook, Twitter and Instagram are not entirely negative — but they do allow for what Professor Engeln calls social
comparison: the act of assessing your life by comparing yourself to others. The problem is, though, the people to whom we’re comparing ourselves don’t actually exist. We’re competing with a world of social media twins — everyone else’s best, more perfect selves. And when winning the competition of best online self becomes more important than being our best in real life, we begin to miss out. How many times have you gone to a party and opted out of photos, tweets and status updates? Somehow, the phrase “pics or it didn’t happen” has gained validity, and it has become almost necessary to capture our body-con dresses and glitter eyeshadow in selfies to share with our social media world. “You don’t need to take pictures to show people you’re having fun or to show people how good you look,” argued Spoll. Unfortunately, this view has become archaic. We spend too much time attempting to prove we looked fabulous while having a fabulous time. But, wouldn’t we have an even more fabulous time without the pressure of proving it? “I hope [people] can find a way back into being more present in the moment,” said Barbin. “Because it’s something they’re going to regret in the future.” When we’re constantly focusing our energy on capturing our ensemble in selfies, we’re sacrificing energy better suited for dancing and socializing. Selfconsciousness will always be a player, but social media as an opponent has diminished our ability to let loose, and well, live by the mantra of “yolo.” So, stop untagging and start living. STITCH |33
L O N D O N C ALL I N G how
one
department
The luxury department store is a magical place. Where else can you come across the work of so many worldrenowned designers – Karl, Marc, Alex and Isabel, to name a few – within only a few floors? The one place that might come close in housing such sartorial creations (although ephemerally) is the Lincoln Center come New York Fashion Week, but even then, only a select crowd gets a first-hand glimpse. When I’m in need of a high fashion fix but the blogs and magazines 34| STITCH
store
became
my
muse
just aren’t cutting it, I head straight to the nearest retail center — Saks, Barneys, Neiman or even Nordstrom. But after a while, my appreciation for the designs turns to frustration. For most mere mortals, high fashion is unaffordable, and sometimes our admiration for it feels more like an unrequited love (Wherefore art thou, sale rack?). Things changed when I went to Liberty. You may have heard the name before. The British department store based just off of London’s bustling photos courtesy of aspoonfulofstyle.co.uk
Oxford Street has been around since 1875. Although the esteemed institution is one of a kind, Liberty is perhaps most widely renowned for its designer collaborations which are featured in stores worldwide. Have you ever seen a pair of Nike’s or Barbour jacket with floral lining? Now you know who’s responsible for the garden party patterns. What makes Liberty different from Saks or Barneys or Bergdorf? It’s all in the details. The Tudor-style building has wood paneling, intricate stained glass windows, a creaky old staircase and even an occasional fireplace (unlit, of course; no one wants the denim department going up in flames). In fact, the store’s founder, Arthur Lasenby Liberty, kept things cozy on purpose, wanting his customers to feel as if they were exploring someone’s stately home. Those elements are a huge contrast to the marble floors, white walls and brushed metal hardware of more modern luxury retailers. The starkness of such establishments had always kept me from getting too close to the racks. Touching the garments, let alone trying them on, felt forbidden. It seemed unfair. Why was it that only those in the upper crust of society got to hang up couture in their closets? Upon entering Liberty’s famed foyer and encountering designer goods in such a seemingly familiar environment, I somehow stopped pining for the items and simply learned to appreciate them. My trips to Liberty became an almost weekly occurrence. Although I never spent a dime (or rather, pound) there, it became a source of inspiration for my later purchases. I fell in love with an Acne shearling jacket on the third floor and on my last day in London, came across a vintage aviator lambskin on Portobello
Road for a fraction of the price. Of course, if I happened to inherit a small fortune, I would snatch up that Acne coat in a second, but that’s not the point. If everyone wore designer clothing, it wouldn’t have the same appeal. Instead, I discovered a concept that intrigued me and eventually found a way to incorporate it into my own wardrobe. The perfectly executed designer piece, an art form in itself, served to ignite my own personal style. Here’s to hoping more department stores will follow in suit and replace their sterile furnishings with more welcoming fixtures. It may not encourage us to spend more money on a handbag, but it may help to cultivate our own sartorial tastes. When we find ourselves at ease, we can more easily toss trends aside and become comfortable with our own, individual fashion choices. Home is where the heart is, and Liberty certainly has a piece of mine. - Helen Zook STITCH |35
Inked By McKenzie Maxson
“Everything was beautiful and nothing hurt.” Well, except getting the tattoo. Weinberg sophomore Margaret Shavlik got her ink, this quote from Kurt Vonnegut’s famous “Slaughterhouse-Five,” at the start of college as a mark of change and new experiences. Like a new outfit or a drastic haircut, tattoos have become a common expression of personal style that can be seen — or hidden — all over campus and everywhere else you look — especially among women. An announcement from a friend that they’re planning on getting ink elicits not shock but a shrug from most of us, and these pieces of body art have lost the stigma of rebellion that once defined those who wore them. Well, almost. “I’d wanted a tattoo for a while,” Shavlik said. “But I had a few friends who were skeptical. They asked me if when I was 60 I was still going to like it, but what mat36| STITCH
ters more to me is that it’s a memory of a time in my life that was important to me. Even if I stop liking the tattoo I won’t stop liking the memory of doing something new and something important to me.” Shavlik’s outlook on tattoos epitomizes their new status in popular culture. Tattoos are in (very in) but not as a chic accessory to show off the current trends, but as a piece of art to show off your own personal style. Nowadays, a tattoo is all in its meaning and personal appeal, and how it’s viewed by the rest of society is beginning to change. The growing popularity of tattoos is reflected in the numbers. According to a Harris Poll taken in January 2012, 21 percent of U.S. adults now have at least one tattoo. Another study from 2006 by Anne E. Laumann, a current Northwestern professor, and Amy J. Derick, indicated that 24 percent of adults age 18 to 50, have tattoos. 40percent of “Millenials” have tattoos.
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A Pew study finds that almost 40 percent of “Millenials” have tattoos. Although there is no data to prove it, it’s easy to see that tattoos weren’t common in the 1960s by the lack of stars or style icons that rocked them for the world to see. Janis Joplin was one of the first notable American celebrities that showed off her ink to the world, as her tattoos were visible on her wrist and chest, but she was certainly one of the few. Today, however, it’s not only common but almost expected for rock stars to have tattoos. It’s no longer a symbol of deviance or rebellion, but rather of self-expression that these stars also embody in their music. Some particularly notable, and more surprising, tattooed stars include four of the five members of One Direction, Justin Bieber, Demi Lovato and the infamous Miley Cyrus — all stars whose music is popular among mainly preteens and teenagers. Subsequently, tattoos are portrayed to teens not as dangerous or rebellious but as mainstream and a normal way of expressing one’s style. It’s not just musicians who have taken the trend and run with it. Models, too, have begun to express their style off the runway through inked skin as well. While unblemished skin used to be the norm for modeling, and still is in some more mainstream markets, many edgy models, especially in high fashion, can now pull off tattoos and have no trouble getting booked. Cara Delevingne, Anja Konstantinova, Abbey Lee Kershaw and Ash Stymest are all well-known names in the modeling industry who seem to have no
trouble getting jobs even with their ink. While tattoos are ubiquitous in pop culture, there’s no convincing everyone. Despite the changing perception of tattoos, the debate over whether having one will hurt your chances of landing your dream job is still alive. Margot Mifflin, the author of “Bodies of Subversion: A Secret History of Women and Tattoo,” pointed out that although many professional women can get away with having tattoos at work, it’s still difficult for those working standard desk jobs. According to Rachel Hennessey’s “Tattoos No Longer A Kiss Of Death In The Workplace” from Forbes, however, while more relaxed tattoo policies are expected from employers of blue-collar and creative jobs, there has been “an increasingly tolerant outlook of frontrunners in corporate, educational and medical industries.” Especially with the emphasis on diversity and inclusion in many modern companies, tattoos have become much less of a stigma in the hiring process. Hennessey does concede, however, that having visible tattoos is still a turnoff for a potential employer. Noah Star, a Weinberg sophomore, has wanted a tattoo since the beginning of college and is now down to planning out the logistics of finally getting one. But the process behind the decision was, for Star, a long internal debate. “Having something that was extremely visible was definitely a concern for me,” Star said. “As someone who wants
“Even if I stop liking the tattoo I won’t stop liking the memory of doing something new and something important to me.”
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to go into public service and be a politician, I don’t want anything that’s visible if I were to go into a workplace.” Eventually, he overcame his worries of professional repercussion. “I think that the idea that tattoos are unprofessional or mean something negative isn’t as prevalent now,” Star said. “Especially if it’s something you can hide. People find tattoos off-putting if they’re in your face and it conveys this image of rebellion and a lack of professionalism, but if you have the foresight to think that it’s something meaningful to you so you put it in a place where only you know where it is, that reflects the meaning behind the art and people are less likely to judge you.” While tattoos are undeniably acceptable in today’s general culture, they are particularly growing in one segment of the population: women. The Harris Poll results showed that 23 percent of women have ink, in comparison with only 19 percent of men. At Northwestern as well, there also seems to be a growing proportion of women with tattoos. In a STITCH survey on tattoos, 93 percent of the 128 respondents were women, although that may speak somewhat to our demographic of readers. In her book, Mifflin called tattoos “badges of self-determination at a time when controversies about abortion rights, date rape and sexual harassment” are common. Consequently, women are forced to “think hard about who controls their bodies.” Today’s modern woman is hypersensitive to how her body is perceived by others as well as by herself. In a world of eating disorders, distorted body images and infringed rights of her body, the average female perception of control can be easily slackened. While
many of these concerns can apply to men as well, women are especially affected because of the ongoing controversies such as abortion and victim blaming in rape culture. While tattoos are certainly not the only way to express control over one’s body, they’re one of them, and the growing number of women with tattoos shows it. Olivia Van Gundy, a Weinberg senior with two tattoos, said it was initially surprising to her that women have more tattoos than men. “The one thing I can think of is maybe people have different motivations for why they get them,” Van Gundy said. “You can have one that’s very sentimental and personal, and I think that applies to a lot of women.” As Dwight Garner pointed out in a review of Mifflin’s book for the New York Times, it’s not just female music artists that are bringing tattoos into the spotlight. Today, Garner noted, women like Kat Von D with her televised affinity for tattoos and the popular film and novel “The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo,” show that tattoos are no longer merely a sign of rebellion or an anomaly among women. Instead, they’re a distinguishing feature much like a haircut and a distinct style of fashion — they’re part of who women are and how they feel about themselves. Social norms today are no longer a product of the pinned down, cookie cutter ideas that may have defined them in the past. Whether it’s what we find acceptable in the celebrities we hate or imitate, what we deem professional at work or how we view ourselves, we can all agree that it’s less black and white and more of a guessing game. But what is certain is that the world is opening up for countless outlets of self-expression. STITCH |39
Photographed by: Christine Chang Models: Dominique French and Joy Liu Directed by: Carly Shapiro and Samantha Brody Hair/Make Up by: Lauren Myers, Beatrice Hagney, and Sarah Spellings Clothes from: Envy
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“Don’t wear skirts over pants”
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“Don’t wear all denim” 42| STITCH
“Don’t wear more than one pattern”
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“Don’t wears socks with sandals”
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“Don’t wear all one color” STITCH |45
mens•wear |ˈmenzˌwe(ə)r| glossary The larger your vocabulary, the easier it is to find that perfect phrase to describe what you’re looking for. Clothing is no different; whether shopping online or in store, knowing some menswear lingo can make a shopping excursion shorter and less painful. Here are some need-to-know terms that you might find useful while shopping this season:
Steven Bennett AND Luke Zhang
Acrylic is a synthetic fabric renowned for its durability and ease of cleaning, as well as its relative cheapness. Acrylic is far less costly than wool. It can be made to mimic other fabrics in look, but does not retain heat nor feel as soft as real wool. A blucher, also known as a derby, is a leather lace-up shoe whose eyelettab is sewn directly onto its body. This stitching is often plainly visible. Bluchers are seen as less formal versions of the oxford, and can be plain-toe, cap-toe or wingtip. A cardigan can easily be recognized as a long-sleeved, knit, button-down sweater with a low, v-shaped neckline. They range anywhere from a shawl neckline to a thin, stitched neckline.
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Those brown pants aren’t just khakis
they’re chinos. It looks like a khaki, but feels thicker because it’s made of twill. Think of it as a settlement between a pair of jeans and a pair of dress slacks. Don’t worry! They come in different colors as well, just like dyed denim.
washed denim tends to have fades set in; wearers cannot influence the look of the fabric as much. Because indigo dye runs, denim should be washed inside out; raw denim should be washed by machine as infrequently as possible.
Chukka boots, (pronounced “chuck-uh”) named for a period of play during polo, are casual anklehigh boots with two or three pairs of eyelets. A common chukka seen on most college campuses is the desert boot, which has a “crepe” soft-rubber sole. Chukkas are often made of soft leather or suede.
This one’s easy to remember if you’ve ever eaten a herring before: herringbone is a special pattern knit from twill fabric. The v-shaped stitching is meant to resemble the skeleton pattern of its namesake herring fish. You’ll find this most commonly on formal pants or blazers.
Denim is a thick cotton twill fabric with a unique weaving pattern. Jeans are just denim pants. Traditional indigo-dyed denim comes dark and unfaded; the wearer could create their own fades in this raw denim, personalizing the fabric. Sites like rawrdenim.com follow modern brands that still practice this. Pre-
Something that is knit doesn’t refer to the Christmas sweater your grandmother gave you. Knit items describe the way a shirt or sweater is made, different from woven items. The knit stitching describes a thicker, more obviously interlocking fabric and uses materials like yarn and wool to create an item, giving it a chunkier look. STITCH |47
Every future groom (or prom king) needs to know where the lapels are. It’s above where your boutonniere sits. Lapels are those two flaps on your suit jacket that frame your shirt, bowtie or tie. They come in different statements, but the most common is the standard notch. Lapels are also commonly “peak” or “shawl.”
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Loafers are among the best informalformal shoes for men. They have no laces, a broad heel and are made of leather or suede. Trust me, they’re the slip-on shoes to wear when your real tuxedo shoes are at the cobbler’s. An oxford is a leather lace-up shoe whose eyelet-tab is connected to the
photos courtesy of hm.com, asos.com, macys.com , jcrew.com
body of the shoe in a level manner, usually by sewing it underneath the body of the shoe. Oxfords are formal shoes, often worn in business-casual settings and can be, like bluchers, plain-toe, cap-toe or wingtip. Suede, surprisingly enough, is not a particular type of fabric, but a way a fabric is finished. Fabrics like wool, leather and other synthetics are used to create a napped finish, resulting in a smooth surface. When it comes to shoes, the most commonly used fabric used in suede is, unsurprisingly, leather! A suit consists of a set of clothing, at the least, trousers and a jacket, but often a waistcoat as well, made from the same material. Suits began as informal country attire in Britain, and were at one time made from scratch to the taste of the wearer (“bespoke”), like most garments. Suits are generally worn with neckties and collared shirts. A tuxedo is the suit’s grown-up dinner-party-going neighbor. A tuxedo has satin or grosgrain (ribbed) lapels on its jacket and matching fabric on the outseam of its trousers. They are typically worn with patent leather shoes, a white shirt (often ruffled), and a bow tie. They usually are all black, hence their namesake event in western dress-code, “black-tie events.” Wingtip describes a particular design on a shoe’s toe: the stitching on a wingtip is obvious, as it usually resembles, well, wings. The toecap has a backward extending point with a dip
in the middle as well as curved sides to create the image. Along with that design, the wingtip shoe often contains other accompanying designs, such as brogue (small holes). Wool is an insulating fabric spun from the hair of sheep, goats and other similar animals; it is great for winter, but scratchier than cotton. It has several cousins. Lambswool is wool collected from the very first shearing of a sheep; it is slightly more elastic than regular wool. Cashmere is wool made from shearing Kashmir goats: the word “cashmere” is actually an outdated spelling of the region. Merino is a soft wool from a merino sheep, prized for its softness and elasticity. Be sure to check out a more comprehensive and frequently updated version of this glossary on stitchfashion.com. Happy shopping! STITCH |49
Y C A R E T I L E L STY JACOB ROTH
MEN’S COLUMN
Your personal style is the visual expression of your tastes, attitude and personality. It’s more than your clothes — it’s how you carry yourself, your body language and how you speak. Style is a means of communication, and becoming literate in reading style – your own and that of others – will greatly benefit your ability to understand and function in social situations. To become literate in style, pay attention to how you change your image in different situations. We all wear different masks, so to speak, for the different social roles we must play. We dress, act and speak differently at a party than we do in class or at a formal event. Think about all the ways, large and small, that you change your style to adapt to the situation. Learning to identify the various components of your presentation allows you to then study how changing them affects your image. Mastering how to consciously
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control others’ perception of you empowers you socially and helps you to avoid missing social cues. Understanding how to masterfully pull off style also helps you to be more comfortable with who you are. Style is not about trying to fit a mold created by others — it’s about being true to your sense of self and letting others know that you are confident with who you are by sight alone. It is a powerful boost to your social confidence and confidence in yourself to be able to unify your external image with your internal person. Don’t underestimate the importance of this unity. An ill-fitting suit is more noticeable due to the discomfort of its wearer than it is by the clothes themselves; the same could be said with style. Learning how to compose your own style is a personal journey, but the basic building blocks are
universal. Clothing is the most readily apparent, though, surprisingly, not the most important factor. Don’t worry about the labels, designers or famous names. Instead, bring your attention to the bigger picture. Do you feel sophisticated and traditional? Blazers, slacks and ties might suit your style. Are you a man of action who enjoys the outdoors? Cargos, boots and flannels certainly send a message. Your style is whoever you like to think of yourself as being. Let your inside out and own it. Attitude and body language are both more important and trickier to control. While we are used to being aware of our attitude, most of us don’t consciously think about control. We comport ourselves to the situation without too much thought when we need to. We’re reverent in church, studious and quiet in class, and laid back with friends. These attitudes are socially programmed and seem natural for the situation. Body language follows attitude and we adjust to this to match the situation. Working with your attitude to help fully realize your style is a long process and involves learning to be introspective of your actions and desires. There is no set way to go about learning how to find an attitude and body language that feel honestly true to who you are rather than what is socially expected of you. Try paying more and more attention to the small ways in which you find yourself acting and speaking differently in radically different situations. Practice consciously adjusting your attitude and body language and experiment with which feel the most honest and comfortable for you.
Style is the realization of your internal self in an external medium. Remember that your style is for no one other than yourself. Master the elements of style and you will be able to both read and navigate social situations in a way that most others fail to ever realize. In finding your style, you will achieve knowledge in yourself and master a transcendent level of confidence. STITCH |51
{
FASHION THROUGH THE ERAS
}
As we all know, fashion trends repeat themselves. Some are just so great that they need to be re-used by a new generation of fashionistas, like midi skirts, while others should never have been trends in the first place (I’m looking at you knit ponchos). Here models Junius Randolph, Paige Rotondo, Sean Gundersen, and Priya Kumar show how quintessential fashion trends from the 1950’s, 60’s, 70’s, 80’s and 90’s can be reworked to look modern and cool. Try some of them out! You’ll look like your parents 30 years ago with fashion sense.
Clothes from: Crossroads Trading Company Photographer: Lily Allen and Jalissa Gomez Directed by: Carly Shapiro and Samantha Brody 52| STITCH Hair/Make Up by: Peggy Gerard, Beatrice Hagney, Sarah Spellings, Kate Camarata, Alix Kramer, and Lauren Myers
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Michelle Chang
Dressed effortlessly in an all-black ensemble complete with mismatched nail varnish and a killer Proenza Schouler graffiti print PS1, Jena Gambaccini, 25, surely looks the part of a fashion blogger that would list Christopher Kane, Acne and Alexander Wang as some of her favorite designers. What is missing, however, is any sort of fashion-snobbery that stigmatizes the fashion world. Although she has traveled the world to attend fashion weeks and been photographed for her street style, Gambaccini’s extreme likeability and Midwestern kindness make her someone you want to be friends with (and share closets with). The undercover amateur fashion blogger turned internationally recognized fashion maven never thought blogging would be her primary job. What started on Twitter and then onto WordPress, ChiCityFashion has been Gambacini’s brainchild of four years. “I pretty much wing it,” said Gambaccini, when asked about long-
58| STITCH Photos by Dan Kelleghan, courtesy of Jena Gambaccini
term goals for her blog. She didn’t even tell anyone when she first began writing while at Miami University in Ohio, from which she has a degree in Marketing. It took her three months to tell anyone. “I didn’t feel that comfortable until I really graduated,” said Gambaccini, who hadn’t even told her boyfriend about her blog until she was invited to Fashion Week. “I had to tell people at that point.” What is impressive about ChiCityFashion is that it is much more than a stylish person uploading photos of herself for others to fawn over. Gambaccini has done extensive research and wants her blog to be credible. “Everyone has access to fashion [online],” said Gambaccini. “But where’s the line on authority? I research. I want to know what I’m talking about.” Citing Style.com and Women’s Wear Daily as sources, Gambaccini lives and breathes fashion news. Her blog is informed, which is refreshing in a world of infinite fashion
bloggers that drone on and on about themselves and their clothes. Although her posts highlighting her amazing wardrobe are fun to read, it is the posts about the items I didn’t know about that I can now buy, the Chicago stores I didn’t know about (thank you, Jena, for Ikram) and realizations that I had while reading her blog (you are so right, Jena, e-commerce and magazines should be connected so
I can buy online what I see in print). ChiCityFashion brings quirk, fearless fashion and fun to the table. It even provides career opportunities for Chicago residents and really wants people to view fashion as more than just shopping or labels. Gambaccini wants people to see fashion in a way that isn’t so materialistic, and with that goal in mind, ChiCityFashion enters its fourth year with many more to come.
Q&A Favorite place to shop in Chicago:
Sofia Live Lovely (100 E. Walton #106) Tangerine (1719 N. Damen) Ikram (15 E. Huron) RSVP Gallery (1753 N. Damen)
Describe Chicago style:
Practical. But sometimes will people take that too literally. I feel like you can dress practically and be stylish.
Favorite international style:
It’s a tie between London and Paris.The combo of the two is my style, I think. London is funky and grungy. In Paris they wear t-shirts, jeans
and Nikes and they look flawless!
What is it about a label like Proenza that you love so much?
Proenza is funky and effortless. They always surprise me every season and their whole vibe, even from ads to the way the shows are produced, I love. They have things that are my style.
Is there an “it” item you want right now?
I’ve really wanted the Givenchy knee-high [sheath] wedge boots. They have them in heels now. STITCH |59
La Regale Lucite Evening Clutch, $55, macys.com Available in a variety of fun colors such as fuchsia, orange and emerald, this minaudière bares all. A mod addition to any outfit. New Year’s resolutions — also known as promises you cannot keep. Still, self-improvement can start with improving your wardrobe. But you don’t need to drop bundles of cash or be a slave to the latest trends to update your look. Instead, think about reinventing your wardrobe to better reflect who you are as an individual. Killer accessories can transform and personalize any ensemble. And these accessories are meant to inspire you to take more funky, crazy and unique fashion risks in the new year. Too Faced Chocolate Bar Eye Palette, Sephora.com, $49 With all the hype over the Naked3 Palette, it is easy to overlook the others Sephora offers. The Chocolate Bar, by Too Faced, is a delicious alternative. Made with cocoa, the palette offers a mix of dark neutrals, nudes and a few whimsical colors with names like Black Forrest Truffle and Strawberry Bon Bon. Look to the future with a fresh set of eyes!
BCBGMAXAZRIA Pave Stud Ear buds, bcbg.com, $38 Splurge on these edgy yet delicate ear buds to add some glam to your technology.
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Perfect Foil Lipstick, $10, Portlandblacklipstickco.com This Portland-based company started with a simple black lipstick but now offers a variety of fun, edgy shades such as silver, green and lavender. Unusual lipstick colors have popped up on the lips of stars such as Rihanna and Nick Minaj, so get ahead of this neo-goth trend for 2014.
Alchemy Ear Cuff, $17 pixiemarket.com, This ear cuff brings a sophisticated edge to any look, as well as a bit of sparkle. No extra piercings necessary — just some fashion moxie.
ASOS Wide Belt, $20, asos.com
This belt shows that you mean business. Although a statement piece on its own, this belt could also be paired with a dress or tunic shirt to add some dominatrix oomph to an outfit.
Lolita 60s Round Sun Glasses, topshop.com, $32. Shield your eyes from the blinding snow with these chic shades. The retro frames are effortlessly cool, and you will be, too.
Berlin Ruckasack Bag, obeyclothing.com, $84 Camo has had a revival, and rather than herald the new year with a set of army fatigues, opt for this bag instead. The fringe, gold clasp and leather blocking are all nice details to this throwback piece.
Skinny Stretch Metal Belt, topshop.com, $32 Whether paired with a little black dress or an oversized shirt, this belt adds a glamourous element to any outfit. Book Jewelry by JezebelCharms, $30, etsy.com Another etsy user, JezebelCharms, uses the site to sell her various literary-inspired jewelry. Be it earrings with a Pride and Prejudice quote, or a cuff bracelet embossed with a page from Alice in Wonderland, the bibliophile will find much to love here. Besties iPhone 5/5s Case, urbanoutfitters.com, $28 The text pretty much sums it up. Get it for your BFF to welcome the best year ever together. LOVE Necklace, pixiemarket.com, $12 Spread the love with this piece. While a backwards necklace may seem to defeat the point, this would look funky with an updo or a haircut.
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p i h s n r e Int Frenzy
OUR GUIDE H T Y M E H T TO S OF “BUSINES C ASUAL”
on ie Maxs
enz by McK
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It’s internship season and no one’s going to let you forget it, not even your closet. It’s time to go business casual. But what even is ‘business casual?’ Fret not, because STITCH is here to help. The trick to dressing for your internship interviews is recognizing the potential of clothes you already own and, if necessary, buying the few key items to round out your work wardrobe. Here’s a breakdown of how to find that fine line between work-appropriate and night-out-on-the-town.
of us might not own. Once you have a “real” job or internship, investing in a good blazer is a must, as it will WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE: instantly make ay outfit more businessWhile some of the trendy tops in your appropriate. closet are probably a little too In all shapes, scandalous for the office, it’s sizes and colors, easy to find a more modest blazers are full top that’s just as stylish. The of variety and classic button-down is one of you can take my favorites — it’s versatile your pick from and chic, and comes in a plain and simple variety of different fabrics. to bold and It’s also easy to dress up, by embellished. adding your own personal Check out touch through jewelry to this preppier stores simple silhouette. Try a simple like J. Crew for a chiffon blouse from a store like Tinley Road Silk simple look or to American Apparel and be sure Popover, $80 complement an to wear a tank top underneath already adorned outfit. Or to add to a to combat the see-through fabric. Pair simpler look, try one like this jeweled it with your favorite pencil skirt (not to blazer from Michael Kors to add an be mistaken for that bodycon mini) or accent. Just make sure you’re not too dress pants. flashy! As far as other top options go, anything without a low neckline Bottoms or a cropped cut is most likely an appropriate choice. And as much as we WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE: all love an open back, the office isn’t the Want to use your everyday favorite best place for it. But if you can’t stand pieces for work too? No problem! We leaving your favorite open-backed top all have our favorite pair of skinny on its hanger, cover it up with a cute pants (no jeans, please!) that can be jacket or blazer so you can still show dressed up with a work top and heels off the front. (pumps, not wedges). Skinny dress WHAT TO BUY: Speaking of pants, like a cute, printed pair from jackets and blazers, that’s the number Banana Republic are perfect. A circle one business casual go-to that many skirt is also a good choice. It’s cute and
Tops
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flirty and can also be dressed up any dressy outfit to look more professional. WHAT TO BUY: While we all have nice pants and various skirts lying around, a quality pencil skirt might be lacking from your wardrobe (I reiterate, this is not your bodycon mini). Go for a pencil skirt in a solid color or a more fun jacquard print, like this one from Topshop. Be wary of Banana Republic Camden-Fit length: the hem should hit Emerald Medallian Print Ankle right above your knee. Pant, $89.50
on the more casual side. Boots of all varieties, tall and short, heeled and flat, work, but if you have a great basic pair — say, a pair of kneehigh Fryes in black — you can pair them with a knit dress (modest neckline and length, of course) and a bananarepublic.com blazer. WHAT TO BUY: While comfort is definitely a preference, there’s still a place for heels in your work look. But be careful to err on the side of classy and business-like, ano keep your heels shorter and less scandalous than you would for a night out with friends. Generally, this means a heel height of three inches or
Top Shop Foil Print Tube Skirt, $30
Shoes
WHAT YOU ALREADY HAVE: Good news, it’s more than okay to be comfortable and fashionable. Try a simple yet stylish pair like Dolce Vita flats. This means your favorite pair of flats are perfect for a day at the office. . Another wardrobe staple that can translate to the office are boots, especially in the winter, as they’ll keep you warm and keep 64| STITCH
Vince Camuto “Naureen” Pump, $88.95
less, and definitely no platforms. If you’re unsure about your heels, opt for something short but stylish like these Vince Camuto kitten heels.
General dos and don’ts Do let your personal style shine. Just because you’re in the office doesn’t mean you have to forget your unique taste and sense of fashion. It’s easy to apply your style to a business casual outfit. Play up your style with bright colors and prints on blazers and skirts. Try a jacket in a popping hue. If you’re one for edgy looks, use small statements like jewelry or details on shoes. But be sure to keep a simple silhouette. Don’t overdo it. Simple is chic and classy, and there’s no shame in sticking to the basics at first until you figure out what style works for you and for your workplace. One accent item is usually enough to make a memorable impression on your potential employer. Any more might give you negative attention. Do make comfort a priority. Aching feet or an uncomfortable outfit can ruin your focus. Don’t underdress. When in doubt, always overdress - this applies to every occasion in life. While simple and comfortable are always great, make sure that your business casual isn’t just casual. Do pay attention to the fit. Anything too tight or too baggy will come off as unprofessional. Remember, pants that are too long can always be hemmed. Don’t forget about dresses! They can be a trickier outfit to put together. You don’t want anything too tight, short, or revealing! So be sure to steer clear of anything you’d wear out and if you can’t decide, err on the conservative side.
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MINIMA Clothes from: Gigi Bottega | Location: Dittmar Gallery | Photographed Hair/Makeup by: Sarah Spellings, Beatrice Hagney, and Kate
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ALISM
TO THE MAX
by: Jalissa Gomez | Models: Jacinda Ratcliffe and Dominique Jackson Camarata | Directed by: Carly Shapiro and Samantha Brody
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color has traditionally been dramatic ehind the delicate jewel tones such as emeralds and rubies, facade of knitting, which is normally but the colors are continuously evolving. The company’s slogan, “Live associated with silver-haired your fairytale,” reflects the company’s women and rocking chairs, lies a aesthetic as well as its mission. passionate entrepreneur set out to “It’s hard to remember that we all change the world of mental health. came to Northwestern with dreams for Through her knit fashion what this could lead to, and it should company AK Kerani, Medill senior just be stepping stone on the way, not Danielle Kerani produces her very own just surviving,” Kerani said. line of hand-knit accessories “And if a scarf can that happen to promote The company’s remind you to live conversation about your fairytale, slogan, “Live your mental health. In great.” fact, her entire fairytale,” reflects the that’s K n i tting labor force consists company’s aesthetic since she was 12 of people who years old, Kerani as well as its have struggled decided to put her with mental health mission. hobby to use by selling issues — models and knitwear online for practical business collaborators alike. reasons her freshman year, in 2011. AK Kerani’s accessory line “I was also stressed about money at the includes wool scarves, hats, gloves and time,” she said. “It was a purely business newly added wool and leather wallets. Like luxury fashion brands, all products model where I was just trying to sell stuff.” After her uncle died right are made with high-quality, thick and before her sophomore year, Kerani durable materials that can withstand had a complete change of heart machine washes. The brand’s choice of about her business. She renamed the 72| STITCH
with a cause Junnie Kwon
business after his initials, “AK.” Death has a way of reshuffling priorities and creating new beginnings, and Kerani knew she wanted to create social change. Inspired by her uncle’s struggle with schizophrenia and her own mental health issues, Kerani decided to incorporate mental health into her business. Her eating disorder, which she thought she beat during high school, resurfaced when she came to Northwestern before she started AK Kerani. “I can see now that it was more situational,” she said. “I didn’t realize that my community in high school and growing up in New York City was what I really needed. I couldn’t get out of bed and was pretty anxious.” Kerani and some team members attended the Global Engagement Summit, a five-day summit where delegates from universities all across the U.S. come with socially conscious business ideas and attend workshops to help develop their organizations. The summit
assigns each group a mentor, and Kerani was set up with Allan Jones, the founder of Triple Thread, to develop a for-profit business model with a socially conscious mission to promote dialogue about mental health. Lena Gryaznova, Weinberg junior and a model for AK Kerani, said Kerani encouraged her to be vocal about her battle with anxiety, and the company’s belief in knitting as an outlet for mental health issues revitalized her interest in crocheting. “I feel on edge a lot of times, so I think crocheting just really helped to channel my energy into something that’s very mundane,” Gryaznova said. “Because you have to sit and
“I feel on edge a lot of times, so I think crocheting just really helped to channel my energy into something that’s very mundane,” STITCH |73
The repetitive motions in do something very minimalistic.” Indeed, knitting has knitting are key to creating this sense of been scientifically proven to be calm, because it allows knitters to detach from their thoughts, Kerani said. calming and therapeutic for Because she has a constant mental health patients. need to be productive, A research article knitting allows her to in The British Journal “If you’re wearing make progress in an of Occupational Therapy concluded something by us, it’s activity without the stresses that “knitting a statement,” Frasier traditional of a project. has significant said. “You’re saying, “It’s mindless psychological in a way,” she and social ‘I understand these said. “After I benefits, which issues, or I want to went through can contribute this depression, to wellbeing understand these I realized I’m and quality of issues, and I’m open never going to be life.” Another to dialogue.’” productive in my life if I study performed by don’t take time to rest.” the Department of Fashion is the perfect medium Psychiatry at the University of British Columbia also found that knitting to promote AK Kerani’s mission because can reduce “anxious preoccupation.” it’s universally relevant and relatable,
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said Jenna Frasier, a Medill senior and social media chair for AK Kerani. “If you’re wearing something by us, it’s a statement,” Frasier said. “You’re saying, ‘I understand these issues, or I want to understand these issues, and I’m open to dialogue.’” Because much of the stigma around mental health affects how people present themselves in public, Kerani said the fashion or entertainment world that encompasses AK Kerani plays a crucial role in tackling such issues. “Fashion is what you wear, it’s how you express yourself, and even if I have a problem or somebody else has a problem, they’re still expected to go to class, dress well to express themselves.” she said. “It hits people on an everyday level.” At an academically focused environment where students are measured by their productivity such as Northwestern, mental health awareness is paramount to the entire community, including those who don’t suffer from such issues. Parker Johnson, Weinberg senior and another model for AK
Kerani, doesn’t suffer from deep mental health or anxiety issues. However, he supports AK Kerani because of his general zeal for studentrun organizations and because the company not only provides a fashion item but also emotional and mental support for other students in ways that administrative services can’t. “I have a friend that has been supported by AK Kerani, and that means a lot to me.” Johnson said. “It means a lot to me that the people I care about are being cared for through AK Kerani’s advocacy. And I know it would be somewhere I could go if I needed.” While speaking at various panels and attending conferences, Kerani and her team are currently working on the upcoming winter collection, which will focus on channeling an elegant look with the classic colors of black and white. models: Chase Eck, Sam Reznik, Parker Johnson, Claire Foreman, Lena Gryaznova. Photos courtesy of AK Kerani. STITCH |75
TO SEE
STEICHEN | WARHOL:
PICTURING FAME BY: STEVEN BENNETT
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Popularity shapes the way we perceive the world around us, from celebrity culture — which names are “in” — to consumer culture — which brand of jeans are “cool.” From Jan. 17 through April 6, Northwestern’s own Mary and Leigh Block Museum of Art will exhibit the works of two photographers who doubtlessly understood the power of fame. The featured artists are none other than Edward Steichen and Andy Warhol, both of who shaped the way the American public perceives modern culture. This new exhibition, titled Steichen | Warhol: Picturing Fame and curated by Elliot Reichert, will feature 140 photographs, 49 of which are original Steichen works mainly from his Condé Nast period. “Steichen’s photographs captured the
public’s imagination in the United States,” Reichert said. “And [his work] shaped the visual language of celebrity-worship that Warhol would simultaneously glorify and undermine many years later.” Although Warhol’s name might be more familiar than Steichen’s, the two operated in similar regards within their respective times; both sought to capture fame and grandeur through their work. One might argue that Edward Steichen was the original glamour photographer, turning his lens to high society during the first half of the 20th century. He became the chief photographer for Vanity Fair and Vogue, as well as working on commission for Hollywood studios, famously capturing Clara Bow, Greta Garbo, John Barrymore and many other Golden Age icons. The Steichen works on
Edward Steichen, Actress Clara Bow for Vanity Fair, 1928
Andy Warhol, Carly Simon, 1980
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Andy Warhol, Unidentified Models
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display showcase his bold style: a nondescript backdrop and a focused, carefully-framed foreground, designed to highlight the nature of his subject. His image of John Barrymore in midsoliloquy makes it clear, even today, that this man was an actor. Even his photographs of inanimate objects, such as the Brooklyn Bridge, follow this artistic credo and the bridge becomes a magnificent subject. Through its proximity to the artist’s lens, the impersonal comes alive. Steichen’s work defined fame in the 20s and 30s, and Andy Warhol, whose artistic career was defined by his obsession with the notion of celebrity, paid heed to it. Early in his career as an ad man, Warhol borrowed from Steichen. The exhibit shows his use of the ink-blotting technique to copy Steichen’s famous image of actress Greta Garbo. The 1928 photograph graced the cover of a 1955 LIFE magazine, which featured a cover story on “Garbomania.” Warhol sought to understand the fame of that image, which in 1955 defined the public’s perception of the actress more than Garbo herself. Warhol, like Steichen, understood that being an artist and a businessman were not mutually exclusive, but in his typical style, he inflated the ethos of the past to fit his grandiose self-image — “working is art and making money is art and good business is the best art,” he once said. Warhol captured fame in his camera, taking photographs of high society on commission with a 70s fixedfocus Polaroid Big Shot Camera to be silkscreened. On the one hand, Steichen| Warhol contrasts these over-made-up women, of whom dozens of shots were taken and developed immediately with Steichen’s careful character studies.
Simultaneously however, the exhibit juxtaposes the different approach taken by each artist. Whereas Steichen’s works were definitively art with pop culture on the side, Warhol’s work put the two on more equal footing. Warhol’s way of picturing fame diverged from Steichen’s in the 70s and 80s. Armed with a simple point-andshoot camera, Warhol documented much of his life in impromptu snapshots of the world around him. Many remain unprinted, and most of these photographs could hardly be considered “art” when stacked against Steichen’s detailed, more meticulous works. Warhol’s photos show a distinct change in celebrity culture: Those who once would have been revered and placed on a pedestal, were now merely objects of gossip whose every action permeated public consciousness. In fact, he eventually sold some of these snapshots to Vogue, coming full circle. We can see Warhol’s influence on how society pictures fame just as clearly as we can see Steichen’s influence on Warhol. The Block’s Steichen | Warhol exhibit brings together the two iconic artists whose work was both shaped by, and actively defined the celebrity culture of their respective decades; be sure to visit this exhibition before it closes on April 6 and see for yourself.
all pictures courtesy of the Mary and Leigh Block Museum of Art
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•Abby Reisinger•
The Perils of Personal Style “You look...fine. It’s just not my thing!” My mother has said this to me seven million times (approximately).
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crushed. When my girlfriends tell me I need to be a bit more provocative when we go out, I e have different deflate slightly. How do you find taste and by the time I turned a balance between wearing what twelve, she stopped trying to tell you love and feeling comfortable me that I “just didn’t match” or — even confident as hell — as that my ensemble wasn’t “right you walk down the street? In the for where we were going.” It’s life of those who constantly push easy to brush the fashion off your envelope, this mother “misline is a treachunderstanderous one to ing your fashwalk. Is perion genius” sonal style only (this is what for the bold? I told myself My fawhen I wore vorite clothing my faux-leopitems include ard print (but are not jacket evlimited to): my eryday from vintage Austhe ages of 9 tralian rugby to 12, to her tournament dismay), but tee that I found what about in a thrift your closstore in Sanest friends? At age 5, I was rocking statement footwear ta Monica, my long before Carrie Bradshaw’s buckled What about stonewashed, cobalt Manolos. your boyone-size-too-big friend? What about...Vogue? straight leg jeans from J. Crew, When I read that dis- suede ankle boots from a Paritressed jeans were officially out, I sian boutique, a maroon maxi was devastated. When my senior skirt that makes my backside prom date told me my high-low, look fab, a black shift dress with classic red gown was “fine,” I was a high neck and a low back, my
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Sox cap and my Chucks. My Chucks are filthy (“just replace them!” my aunt begs me), my rugby tee garners stares from even the most polite, my maxi skirt is rocked even in the winter (“I don’t get it,” my sister has said to me) and my shift dress is underwhelming for many (the sales clerk told me I could “do better”). But I love them unconditionally. I love them for what they convey to others (hippie-chic, a love for times gone by, class where it counts and game to dance barefoot now and always). But even more so, I love them for what they convey to me. I adhere to things that make me feel most like myself (boots, Sox cap, Chucks), things that make me feel like the most beautiful girl in the room (shift dress, maxi skirt) and things that dare me to be adventurous (rugby tee, stonewashed jeans). I love
them not because Anna Wintour told me to, not because my boyfriend likes to see me in them, or even because my girlfriends moon over my taste. I love them because I view them as an extension of myself and there’s nothing better to love than yourself. So, is personal style dangerous? Should you break trends in the name of wearing whatever you damn well please? My answer: Yes. Fashion is fun, trends even more so, but style is a different game. Style is you and you deserve to be seen. So, read Vogue — swallow it whole, even. Then, wear that ratty tee, those stilettos, that bomber jacket, that sequined skirt, that buttoned-up-all-the-way oxford and walk down the street like The Sartorialist is following you. Be a little dangerous and wear who you are. It’s a new year after all.
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