STITCH november no !! 2011
contents:
5...letter from the editor 6...looks 8...pleasures 10... profile: ZoĂŤ Damacela 14... photo shoot: color me happy 22... feature: occupy mall street 24... photo shoot: circus freaks 32... 2 Do 35... last word: uni(re)formed
STITCH Editor-in-Chief Sophie Friedman
Managing Editor Nadina Gerlach Online Managing Editor Jaya Sah Assistant Editor Corinne White Online Assistant Editor Emily Ferber Director of Photo Shoots Gabrielle Hurwitz Director Public Relations Logan Daum Director of Fundraising Alexandra Shanahan Director of Advertising Alexis Gui
Print Design Rosalind Mowitt, Sophie Friedman, Rachel Nussbaum Photo Shoot Team Carly Shapiro Staff Photographers Justin Schuman, Luke Vogelzang, Nick Arcos, Hillary Thornton, Christina Jameson Staff Writers Kendra Vaculin, Matt Grosinger, Samantha Brody, Kirstin Nordhaus Street Team Maggie Gorman, Christina Welch, Kate Villa,Tracy Lin Multimedia Team Michelle Chang
Treasurer Catherine Ning
Online Design Alexandra Sifferlin, Taylor Thomas, Rebecca Lai, Vicki Wang
Online Design Editors Nicole Herman, Rosalind Mowitt
Copy Editors Emily Ferber, Gabrielle Hurwitz
Multimedia Editor Diane Tsai
Special Thanks Patrycja Antuszewska, Johnny Langan, Alyssa Clough, Rebecca Liron, Sonali Dasgupta, Katlin Bole, Alia Wilhelm, Rachel Nussbaum, Kalindi Shah, Arabella Waters
Editor-at-Large Kathryn Cannady
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR <<<
>>> On set at Color Me Happy (left) and Circus Freaks. For more behind the scenes coverage of these photoshoots, visit our website: www.stitchfashion.com
Sophie Friedman editor-in-chief +Miss Dior Cherie Parfum +Pesto grilled cheese sandwiches +Sprinkle Bakes +Mustard yellow +Northwestern rugby shirt
Make a mark. Lately, I have been struggling with what it means to leave my mark at Northwestern. Take a look in any of our history books, cozy up in the Northwestern University Archives (they have an awesome collection of past STITCH Mags that you won’t
see anywhere else!) and you’ll realize that each and every student that sets foot on this campus is passionate, ready to leave a legacy at NU and prove themselves to the world. We, as Northwestern students, are overprogrammed, high achieving, (very sleepy) perfectionists and we wouldn’t have it any other way. Not only do we push ourselves to do our best in class and in our extra-curricular activities, but we look good doing it. Take a look around at your peers: they are making statements, making history and expressing themselves through fashion every day. Just ask our cover girl, Zoë Damacela. Her clothes cause just as much of a stir as her accomplishments!
Worried about leaving a legacy here at NU? Start by embracing your own unique style and quirkiness. There is more to history making than just hard work. Put some personality into it, and chances are, Street Team will take your picture and add you to our list of most fashionable students in Northwestern history. Congratulations! Leaving your legacy is probably going to be easier than passing Plant-People Interactions. No go find some Ugg and North Face replacements that show us who you really are!
yours, Sophie STITCH | 5
LOOKS
VERSACE
M A RY K AT R A N T Z O U
This season Versace oozes sex appeal, showing that sexy doesn’t need to be subtle. Tiny bustiers are toned down by pencil skirts that break from the boring with leather and gold studded detailing. Donatella’s details don’t stop at the clothes however, as she brings back the Lucite wedges from seasons past and updates them with a fresh leather look. While not necessarily perfect for meeting the parents, Versace Spring/ Summer 2012 lets all women embrace their inner sex appeal.
Mary Katrantzou’s signature trompe l’oeil silks take a turn for the dramatic this season with electric brights, crazy patterned pants and aquatic scenes. An extreme asymmetrical tank, red shoes, and ridiculous makeup highlight the wild clashing patterns, showcasing a more daring design aesthetic. This bold yet flattering look gives a lot of room for fun in Spring 2012, breaking all the rules and propelling Katrantzou to the front of the British design pack.
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GUCCI
PRABAL GURUNG
Gucci stands out this season by rebelling against the color trends and presenting an almost monochromatic collection. Geometric prints and flattering cuts work together to create looks that were sexy and sophisticated. This geometric gold, white, and black dress manages to capture the hard aesthetic that is characteristic of Gucci while the swinging fringe adds a more laid-back approach to the houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s designs.
This season, Prabal Gurung gives new edge to a ladylike dress with bold blues, greens, and leather accents. The fluffy three-dimensional top and bottom are balanced by hard leather strappy accents, creating a look that combines the girlish and edgy influences that dominated the runway this season. Hints of transparency and abstract design were carried through the show and kept the classy sexy vibe that is characteristic of the house.
TEXT: KATHRYN CANNADY, ILLUSTRATIONS: RACHEL NUSSBAUM
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PROFILE
Photos and cover image by Nicholas Arcos
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ZOE NORTHWESTERN’S NEXT BIG THING
by Samantha Brody
>>> Successful entrepreneur, sought-after designer, real life success story, and well-
rounded college student. These titles and more can all aptly describe Zoe Damacela, winner of Seventeen Magazine’s “Pretty Amazing” contest and sophomore at Northwestern.
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s both the CEO and designer for her own apparel line, it’s not surprising she floored the folks at Seventeen. We were pretty floored too, especially when she told us about her mild Harry Potter obsession (with the tattoo to prove it!). Damacela is refreshingly down to earth, and practically glows with excitement when talking about her favorite show (The Marvelous Misadventures of Flapjack), study nook (surrounded by books in the library) and language of choice (Italian). However, when not indulging in her favorite activities, Damacela has a work ethic that would make any overachieving Wildcat envious. Often gone two to three times a week on an array of obligations including scheduled appearances with Seventeen Magazine or promotional events for the Startup America Initiative, she juggles her classes (with a double major in History and Italian), her sorority and her social life with the finesse and fearlessness of a trapeze artist. Not to mention the fact that her clothing line, composed primarily of custom-made designs, is constantly featured in fashion shows, including the upcoming Latino Fashion Week. During a break in her busy schedule, I visited Demacela in her stylishly girly single at Plex to learn how pretty amazing doesn’t begin to cover it.
When did you first develop an interest in fashion? I think I was always interested in fashion. I remember from really early I used to draw clothes a lot, but I didn’t really know fashion design was a career – I just liked to draw. The earliest I started to draw was about 2 or 3, but when I first wanted to be a designer like as a career, I was about 13 or 14.
From where did you first draw your inspirations? And now? I think when I first started, I was really influenced by art. I was always really involved with art or art classes – I did a lot of fine arts before doing fashion design. So I think most of my influence has come from different artists, even art techniques, stuff like that. In the beginning, my stuff was really weird [Laughs]. For artists, Egon Schiele is my favorite. Gustav Klimt is amazing too. Those are probably my two favorites. But I also can pull inspiration from anything – it can be a texture, or weird things like a sound will give me inspiration for clothes or a type of design. Or a smell, or just like one color? I can build a whole collection off of the shade of one color.
What’s an example of your inspiration? So for the collection that I have on my STITCH | 11
Zoe at home in her PLEX dorm room. wall, the inspiration for that was that color, that shade of purple. So I got that one shade, and built that collection around it. Not everything is the same shade of purple, but it’s the feeling I got from that shade – it reminded me of outer space and the galaxy, so I used a lot of tulle and organza, and everything is kind of tie-dyed and dip-dyed.
Where do you want you and your business to be five years down the line? Well, I’ll still be continuing to run by business, but I do want to continue on and go to business school and get my MBA. And hopefully I’ll have started something else, too. And as far as from Zoe Damacela Apparel, I’d really like to launch more into accessories, but as far as other businesses, I’m thinking about starting a children’s wear line.
What’s been the most amazing experience you’ve had as a result of your success? Oh my gosh…I don’t know because there’s been so many amazing things: meeting the President for the first time was awesome, meeting President Clinton and speaking at the White House have been great. And obviously being on the cover of Seventeen Magazine is awesome. But I think the most fulfilling thing for myself has just 12| STITCH
being able to be financially stable for once in my life. The reason I started this business and the reason I continue to run it is because I needed the money, and so the most fulfilling thing for me is being able to pay for everything that I need. How has running your own business affected your Northwestern life? Well, it’s just been crazy. There are a lot of different sides to my business. I’m in charge of all the designs, and I’m also President and CEO, which takes up a lot of time. And I’m also a spokesperson for a lot of different organizations. So there’s like three parts which are just part of my business. And in addition I’m being a fulltime student, and being in a sorority, and just being alive. I think it can be hard because I never feel like I have enough time to get everything done, but you have to know when to stop and be done for the day because there’s always something else I could be doing which drives me crazy. But that’s the reason why you go to college right? So you can have a career and be happy and live your dream, and that’s what I feel like I’m doing and that I’m on the right track.
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color me
happy
by Christina Jameson and Hillary Thornton
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model: rachel graf photography: christina jameson & hillary thornton styling: gabrielle hurwitz, carly shapiro, kathryn cannady photo shoot assistance: carly shapiro, sophie friedman, jaya sah clothing: colored pieces and jewelry courtesy of GAVIN Evanston (1939 CENTRAL STREET, EVANSTON, IL 60201 (847)-328-7407). GAP turtleneck, leggings and shoes, modelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own.
OCCUPY MALL STREET
by corinne white
>>> The punchiest of pundits still don’t know what it means for politics. But STITCH asks: What does Occupy Wall Street mean for fashion?
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t all started with a $39,000 alligator skin backpack. Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, their legitimacy as serious fashion designers now wellestablished with the continued commercial and critical success of their high-fashion line The Row, made a $39,000 (no—all those zeros are not typos) alligator skin backpack. Of course, it created a flurry of outrage— and then promptly sold off the shelves like the hotcakes Mary-Kate and Ashley weren’t eating. You could see MK and Ash re-pursing their already pursed lips at their critics. See? We pictured them saying. What’s wrong with a $39,000 backpack? “It was the first thing that sold off the shelf,” Ashley said. Okay, Ashley. Pornographic films and cigarettes sell right off the shelf as well. The controversy of the five-figure backpack broke out in late September, just a handful of days after the first Occupy Wall Street protest on September 17. “We are the 99%,” the protestors said. There is too much wealth concentrated and controlled at the top, and not enough for the rest of us. What would the Occupiers say about a $39,000 backpack— one that sold right off the shelves, no less? The fashion director of Barney’s, Amanda Brooks—who I’m not entirely sure hasn’t been to an Occupy protest, but have a sneaking suspicion she has not—had something to say about it: “If you were ever going to spend $39,000 on a bag,” she said, “that’s the bag you should buy.” 22| STITCH
Do you think Amanda Brooks has ever attended an Occupy Wall Street protest? Here’s the thing: STITCH is not a political magazine. But we are a fashion magazine for college students. And regardless of your political affiliations, or what you think of Occupy Wall Street, or the fact that you still love Mary Kate and Ashley because of you still watch Full House reruns on ABC Family, or the fact that you could actually afford a $39,000 backpack, or if you consider the twins to be genuinely talented designers (I think do)—regardless of all those things, we can safely say, with our shared identity as college students: a $39,000 backpack is not okay. “One remarkable facet of Occupy Wall Street,” says Josh Barro of National Review Online, “is how focused the protestors are on student loan debt…many college grads have good reason to be upset. Educational inflation has been running far ahead of general inflation, without improvements in quality.” Many an-Occupier are disheartened college grads who have not been able to find jobs post graduation. Occupy Wall Street is incredible in the mere fact that our generation of apathy is actually starting to care. “We wanted to do a bag for every occasion,” said Mary-Kate, without a hint of irony. Well I’d hope it’d work for every occasion! That alligator skin backpack better do my homework and clean my room! Or really, since it’s the price of a nice car, it’d better drive me places as well. Of course, angered grumbling over fashion’s sometimes exorbitant price tags are
nothing new. So why did this backpack hit such a nerve? Mary Kate and Ashley are 25 years old. They grew up with us. If you’re a girl, you wanted to be them, and if you’re a guy, you talked about how hot they’d gotten circa Holiday in the Sun (it’s those bikini scenes). They were themselves college students at New York University. And now, while the rest of us in our twenties struggle to find jobs despite our college degrees from top institutions, a fact known prior to the Occupy protest but now even more prominent because of them, the Olsens—a symbol of our 90’s childhood— release a backpack the cost of many American’s yearly income. Perhaps the attempt to tackle how pricing plays into fashion is similar to Occupy Wall Street in that trying to make one clear, coherent message out of the issue is impossible. We will always have wealth inequality, we’ll always have a wide range of incomes, just like the fashion industry has a wide price range to cater to all of those different incomes. The irony of this entire alligator bag debacle is that Mary-Kate and Ashley have made most of their fortune selling clothes and accessories at none other than the ultimate symbol of the American bargain: WalMart. But how much difference is too much?
Whatever Occupy Wall Street means, one thing can’t be argued with: something, whatever that something is, has snapped. And regardless of your political affiliation, we, as college students and future citizens of this world, need to pay attention to it. And we, as fashion-conscious college students, need to pay attention to things like $39,000 alligator skin backpacks from our former childhood heroes—why it matters to the rest of the industry and to the current state of our country.
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photos courtesy of net-a-porter.com
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Circus Freaks >>> Step right up to see Sigma Alpha Epsilon and Alpha Phi model their scariest looks for charity in STITCHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Project ScArE photo shoot Photos by Luke Vogelzang
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Models: Mary Kelly, Devin Midura, Rory O’Byrne, Sanjay Biswas, David Harris, Sam MacQuillan, Emily MacArthur, Christine Cho, Liz Paul Make Up: Patrycja Antuszewska Styling: Gabrielle Hurwitz Costumes: Models’ own
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IN THE KITCHEN with Kirstin Nordhaus
>>> This salad was inspired by a summer spent perusing different farmers markets each week. This lighter meal showcases Fall produce and my favorite vegetable, sweet potatoes. The sweet potatoes and salad dressing both have a warmer variation on the traditional honey mustard sauce, substituting maple syrup for the sweet flavor. For dessert, enjoy this recipe for caramel apples a la mode, a combination of the delicious Affy Tapples of our childhood Octobers and recent memories of summer ice cream cones. For a special treat, use cinnamon ice cream from Hartigan’s at 2909 Central Street, an Evanston staple for the past 31 years.
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Fall Harvest Salad Romaine lettuce 1 small Granny Smith apple 1/3 cup goat cheese crumbles ½ cup dried cranberries 1/3 cup pecans
Caramel Apples a la Mode:
Roasted Sweet Potatoes 1 large sweet potato ¼ cup maple syrup 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Salt and pepper
Apple Topping 2 large Granny Smith apples 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons brown sugar ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch ground cloves
Sweet Mustard Vinaigrette 2 teaspoons minced garlic 3 T apple cider vinegar ¼ cup maple syrup 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 pint ice cream (cinnamon or vanilla work well) Whipped cream (optional)
First, prepare the roasted sweet potatoes and toast the pecans. Preheat oven to 400°. Cover a cooking sheet with aluminum foil and coat with cooking spray. Bring a pot of water to a boil and add cleaned sweet potatoes. Cook for 12 minutes until the potatoes are slightly soft. Remove from water and let cool. Cut into 1-inch cubes. Using a fork, mix oil, maple syrup, and mustard in a large bowl. Add sweet potato cubes and stir until combined completely. Place sweet potatoes on the baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake for 10 minutes, stir and bake for an additional 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 350° and toast the pecans in a pie pan for about 8 minutes, stirring every 2 minutes - be careful not to let the pecans burn. Remove from the oven and let the pecans cool. Next, prepare the sweet mustard dressing. Peel and mince one clove of garlic. Whisk together garlic, vinegar, maple syrup, mustard, salt, pepper and oil. Finally, prepare and assemble the rest of the salad. Toss salad with the dressing and serve!
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Caramel Sauce 1 cup sugar ¼ cup water ¾ cup heavy cream 3 ½ tablespoons butter
First, prepare the caramel sauce. Combine sugar and water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. After sugar has dissolved completely, increase the heat to high and bring to a boil without stirring. Remove from heat after the mixture has been boiling for about 5-6 minutes and the sauce has become a dark amber color. Carefully whisk in the heavy cream. Next add the butter to the sauce, stir until combined, and transfer to a separate container to cool. Next, prepare the apple topping. Wash and core each apple and slice into 10 pieces. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the apple slices and cook for about 6 minutes. Add the brown sugar, cinnamon, and cloves. Stir until the apples are fully coated and cook for 2 more minutes. If you have extra heavy cream, you can make fresh whipped cream to top the sundaes. Place a mixing bowl and the beaters of an electric mixer in the freezer for at least 30 minutes. Add heavy cream to the chilled bowl and beat on medium speed until the cream forms stiff peaks. Stir in a few tablespoons of sugar to taste. Spoon the apple mixture onto ice cream and cover with a few spoonfuls of caramel sauce. Add a large dollop of whipped cream and garnish with a sprinkle of ground cinnamon. - Kirstin Nordhaus photo courtesy of onceuponacuttingboard.com
STITCH Music Review by Matt Grosinger
2 DO The Year of Hibernation by Youth Lagoon
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f obsessive compartmentalization is therapy for agoraphobia, then Trevor Powers might want to consult a professional. On his debut LP, The Year of Hibernation, Powers –aka Youth Lagoon–finds much refuge stowed away at home, crafting tautly produced headphone music. As the title implies, Powers didn’t leave home much during the genesis of this album –the farthest he trekked was to a friend’s in-laws’ garage to get the reverb on his vocals. A lean, eight track opus, Hibernation coalesces more soundly as a dreamscape in eight movements than eight conventional tracks. Ostensibly, this is result of the tension between routine and repetition that would arise were you to spend a year waking up in the same isolated space: at some point the line between quotidian and redundant would start to blur, and you might only recall certain aberrations. In much the same way, each
track on Hibernation is the logical extension of the last. So perhaps the most literal sense of the term, Youth Lagoon’s Hibernation is bedroom-pop –gauzey, dreamy, thoughtful. Every track serves to expand the solemnity and profundity of the album. Songs like “Posters,” “17,” and “July” mull and brood until expertly timed crescendos avert utter despondency. And to the aforementioned affect, the album’s most memorable deviation is “Afternoon,” a mirthfully hummable paean that was two years too late for the Where The Wild Things Are soundtrack. It is quite telling that the album’s outlier is also its best track. Somehow, from an easel of reclusion and chronic anxiety, Power imbues Hibernation with a spiritual reclamation that is not immediately plausible, but ultimately essential and therapeutic. photo courtesy of Fat Possum Records
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UNI(RE)FORMED by Kendra Vaculin
Isunshine. would in no way describe myself as a ray of Positivity, while definitely among my
strong suits, is not my only suit, and I perhaps don’t get it dry-cleaned as often as I should. But in the face of thirteen years of Catholic school uniforms, which were loathed by my classmates and regulated fiercely by disciplinary deans, I was annoyingly enthusiastic.I loved my uniform. I loved it. And though mine was often a lone voice of praise amidst a sea of outfit-regulation-related grumbling, I adored every minute of wearing the exact same shirt as 800 other people, and for reasons I am only now beginning to fully understand. When uniforms were a daily reality for me, I appreciated their ease, comfort, and even structured sort of flair. In retrospect, I know that spending over a decade with uniform culture greatly influenced my personal style, and in an almost backwards way, informed my view of creativity and fashion. I guess it didn’t hurt that my high school uniform was actually sort of cute. It was in no way Britney Spears’ outfit circa the “Hit Me Baby One More Time” video, except…I mean, it sort of was. We did not tie our shirts up to reveal numerous inches of bare stomach but our skirts were definitely just as negligible in length, and we flounced down our hallways with a similarly preppy air. My closet in high school resembled that of a cartoon character: rows of the same shirt and skirt in different colors, ready to be mixed, matched and put on at a moments notice. Without a single coherent thought, I could roll out of bed, throw on the first two pieces I saw, and look good. The fact that classic styles are valid fashion choices in every day life, and that uniform-inspired pieces permeate designer collections every season, is a testament to their universal appeal. Blazers, loafers, collared shirts, knee socks, and pleated skirts --- people often have their own Catholic school outfits in their closets without even trying. The most interesting, of course, was the idea that uniforms leveled the social playing field, especially among girls. If we all wore the same sweater, no one would be able to tell who had money and who didn’t, or who was able (or even inclined) to don the latest trends, and who wasn’t. A universal navy sweater would eliminate bullying based on appearance, the administration told themselves, so they gave us all the same V-neck knit and let
us loose. People complained that it stifled their self-expression. “But I AM what I WEAR!” they cried, fifteen years old and starring in the telenovela of their own lives. “If you force me into that polo shirt I will SHRIVEL UP and DIE!” But teenage girls will be teenage girls, and we found a way around it. Our uniforms were just the base of each student’s outfit, and every person, the girls especially, built upon that base in whatever way they could. This meant that two identically uniformed people might sit next to each other in third period Algebra II, one in Tory Burch flats carrying a Marc by Marc Jacobs tote and the other wearing beat up Chuck Taylors and a bright yellow Jansport backpack. Instead of being grounds for teasing, however, the ways in which students’ uniforms differed were cause for celebration. It was obvious when someone’s headband cost twice as much as the next person’s, but what mattered so much more than that was the ability to express one’s personal style. Standardized dressing challenged the creativity of the student body; if we wanted to say something to the world through what we wore, we did so in the arenas still available to us: our wrists and our hair and our feet, our ears and our fingernails, what we carried our books in. College was a culture shock for me mostly because it meant that I could pick out my own outfit every single day. The concept of wearing leggings and a giant sweatshirt to class was thrilling, as I had previously only ever learned while looking really put together, and I still take advantage of that opportunity at least once a week. But I realized that wearing a uniform in my past has made fashion experimentation almost second nature to me in the present. I like to think that I approach personal style in a creative way because I was forced to do so for so many years; because all of my classmates wore the same clothes, we worked harder to find other things that made us unique, and enjoyed pushing the limits. Now that I can work with more than just accessories, I am in love with trying new things style-wise, and occasionally failing pretty hard at it. Sometimes I even pull my old uniform out of my closet and wear it to class, perhaps embarrassingly without irony. Every time I play with fashion, take a style risk or even go full-tilt trendy, it is a love letter to my uniform days, which taught me how to be myself in a sea of the same blue sweater, and for that I am eternally grateful.
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LAST WORD
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