Switzerland Vistas. One destination, infinite possibilities
Ski Switzerland
with Skimax, the ski holiday specialists!
Contents Natural Highs
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The best of contemporary culture, action adventure and lush landscapes comes together in Switzerland.
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Visit a city where the finest of the past meets a modern sensibility.
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cover: swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
Even if you’ve never strapped on skis before you’ll fall for Switzerland’s famed slopes.
Basel: Art & Soul
Interlaken: Peak Conditions
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Take a two-day tour around this most picturesque of regions.
2014 Uncovered
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Make a date in your diary for the biggest Swiss events.
While You’re There...
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These 10 attractions and adventures will have you itching to get on the plane.
Did You Know...
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Switzerland Vistas produced for Switzerland Tourism by: Publisher Justin Jamieson Editor Carrie Hutchinson Creative Director Luke Fraser
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Getting there and getting around.
Fascinating facts about Switzerland.
Grin Creative Studio 4, 340 Gore Street Fitzroy VIC 3065 tel: (03) 9486 0550 www.grincreative.com.au
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Our top five adrenaline-boosting adventures.
The Practical Guide to Switzerland
Situated on the border of three nations, this is the capital of cool.
Lake Geneva Region: A Vine Romance
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The rich history and enticing pie make this the ideal family destination.
Zürich: Contemporary Classic St Moritz: A Lesson Learned
Lucerne: Lucerne Focus
Design and Production Alice Shaw, Karl Mautner, Ivan Valachovic
Contributors Elspeth Callender, Mal Chenu, Sophie Davies, Brian Johnston, Tatyana Leonov
Natural Highs Living traditions, contemporary culture and adrenaline-pumping action combine to make Switzerland one of Europe’s favourite destinations, writes Sophie Davies.
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swiss-image.ch/Markus Zimmermann
W
hen British mountaineer Lucy Walker became the first woman to climb the Matterhorn in 1871, she scaled the iconic Swiss peak in a cumbersome ankle-length dress. She also ascended the notorious Eiger, surviving on sponge cake, champagne and sparkling wine. Climbing, cakes and bubbly still sound like smart reasons to pop Switzerland on your bucket list, but there’s more to this compact European country than alpine highs. What springs to mind when you think of Switzerland? Superb skiing, magical mountains and Instagram-worthy lakes? Chic cities, postcard-pretty meadows and meandering cows? Or perhaps the elegant tennis of Roger Federer, luxury watches, army knives, cuckoo clocks and melt-in-the-mouth fondue? Like a supermodel, Switzerland seems beautiful and sophisticated, but what beckons behind that enigmatic smile? Did you know that despite its petite population of just eight million, Switzerland boasts four national languages – German, French, Italian and Romansh? And that’s without counting yodelling, the sing-song calling system once used for herding livestock or communicating between mountain hamlets, often accompanied by the booming alphorn. The country also balances centuries-old heritage, best discovered on rural escapes off the beaten track, and ultra-contemporary lifestyle, from fine dining to seductive shopping and cutting-edge arts.
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swiss-image.ch/Max Schmid
Like a supermodel, Switzerland seems beautiful and sophisticated, but what beckons behind that enigmatic smile? Switzerland offers some epic travel experiences, from skiing in St Moritz, Davos and Zermatt to family fun in historic Lucerne. Switzerland may be landlocked, but vast, vineyard-fringed Lake Geneva is a mesmerising must-see. It’s hard to beat cycling, strolling or just sipping coffee by Switzerland’s many lovely lakes, or go boating, windsurfing or kayaking. Prefer more highoctane adventures? Interlaken is renowned for its adrenaline-boosting activities, including canyoning, paragliding and skydiving. Don’t miss the mountain railway up to the Jungfraujoch, the highest point in Europe accessible by train, passing by the foot of the Eiger. If cultural capers and retail therapy are your bag, then spend time in Switzerland’s stylish cities. With its 140-metre fountain jetting up beside the lake, Geneva is home to an alluring Old Town, with independent boutiques in ancient Sardinian
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quarter Carouge and a twice-weekly fleamarket at Plainpalais. Place du Bourg-de-Four’s cafés are perfect for people-watching. Cool Basel’s bold art and architecture, and design-savvy Zürich’s rooftop bars, offer more urban thrills. Visit in winter for snow action and soaking in romantic spas, spring and autumn for hiking and biking trails, or summer for sun-kissed swimming (Lake Geneva’s Bain de Pâquis is an atmospheric spot for a dip). Whenever you’re here, you’re bound to find a quirky, old-school festival afoot, with the nation’s 26 cantons (once-sovereign federal member states) guaranteeing cultural diversity. Swiss wrestling, shepherds’ festivals, folkloric fairs, tempting food markets and lantern parades prove the country’s traditions are still alive and kicking. Throw in castles and chateaux, wine and chocolate, glaciers and Gruyère cheese, and you’ll be in Swiss heaven.
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Switzerland
Germany Basel Z端rich
Austria
Lucerne
France
Bern Titlis Engelberg Interlaken
Lausanne
St Moritz
Montreux
Geneva
France
Italy
Italy
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Switzerland: Z端rich
Contemporary Classic
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
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Blending the finest of the past with a modern edge, the largest city in Switzerland tempts Tatyana Leonov.
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swiss-image.ch/Bruno Macor
There’s something about Zürich that has everyone talking. Old and new, traditional and contemporary, conventional and glamorous… These qualities are often at odds in life, but occasionally find harmony in special places. Zürich’s ability to capture that dynamic blend is a true secret of its success. Beautiful clocks (Europe’s fifth largest church clock face is found in Zürich’s St Peterskirche church), designer stores, ateliers and eclectic studios meld seamlessly in this vibrant metropolis.
Zürich is a beacon of good times in the evenings. Come dusk, riverside pools are transformed into fashionable waterfront bars – think sophisticated, suave and seductive...
The Old Town, boasting imposing architecture, grand museums and exceptional art galleries, looks as though it belongs in a fairytale. Take some time to walk around and savour the surrounding cityscape, starting at Bahnhofstrasse, one of Switzerland’s prime shopping streets, where you’ll find everything from designer goods to famous Swiss chocolate along the picturesque stretch. Stroll along the Limmatquai, which curves over to its namesake, the Limmat River, for more shopping as well stunning
churches, halls and bridges. These riverside sights are particularly beautiful at nightfall when the surrounding lights immerse the city in their serene glow. Zürich is a beacon of good times in the evenings. Come dusk, riverside pools are transformed into fashionable waterfront bars – think sophisticated, suave and seductive with musical wants, gastronomic pleasures and drink medleys all taken care of under one of the many roofs. Rimini Bar, on
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Discover
SWITZERLAND Cosmos Inclusions
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Schanzengraben, is one of the best – kick back on plush sofas and oriental cushions while enjoying dishes grilled on the spit and a cocktail or two. Whether you’re after fondue, classic Swiss food, Japanese or Italian, Zürich’s culinary scene caters to every taste and whim. Hiltl, the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant, is a must-do. Across two levels, it serves exemplary fare (à la carte and buffet-style) that will make the mouths water of even the most committed carnivores.
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
Beyond the Old Town is Zürich West. The once-industrial district has gone through an artistic renaissance and is now a pulsating expanse of gallery spaces, funky boutiques, studios, theatres, hotels, restaurants and bars. Stay at the edgy 25Hours Hotel, which features a playful interior created by local designer Alfredo Häberli and has rooms that explode with pops of colour and whimsical graphics dotted throughout. Start a shopping spree at the Freitag Flagship Store, housed in stacked freight containers, for cool bags made from recycled tarpaulin. Grab a snack – homemade pies, local organic produce – at Markthalle or, if a more serious meal is necessary, head to Les Halles for organic Mediterranean-inspired tapas and the finest mussels and fries.
All about: Zürich
The revival of Zürich West began with the opening of Schiffbau in 2002. The culture centre in transformed shipbuilding halls is home to a theatre (in conjunction with Schauspielhaus), restaurant, bar and even a jazz club. It’s the kind of place you could hang out for hours on end remaining entertained, but if you do feel the need for a boogie, head to one of Zürich West’s nightclubs and dance into the morning.
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Zürich is located in north-central Switzerland, and shares its name with a canton
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Population: 390,000
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It sits at the northern end of Lake Zürich, the Old Town straddling the Limmat River
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Many organisations, from consulting firm Mercer to Monocle Magazine, rate Zürich as having the highest quality of living in the world
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As well as being one of the biggest global financial centres, the city has a rich culture, with many museums and art galleries, as well as important orchestras and theatre companies
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In August, Zürich plays host to Street Parade, one of the largest techno and dance music festivals in the world
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Zürich has the only Opera House in Switzerland
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Switzerland: St Moritz
swiss-image.ch/Robert Boesch
02 A Lesson Learned
On Switzerland’s famed slopes, Elspeth Callender straps on skis for the first time then revels in the après action.
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swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
I’m as fresh to skiing as the virgin snow that fell last night on the cobbled streets of St Moritz and more heavily on the mountains above, but there’s no judgement here. The staff at Ski Service, who pose in the company’s glossy catalogue as well as fit boots and skis, are gracious and encouraging and make me an espresso to get me pumped. My instructor, Susi, who’s been skiing since she can remember because “that’s what Swiss people do”, tells me I’m picking it up quickly and that she can see I’m sporty by the way I fall.
The town of St Moritz is situated at 1822 metres in the Upper Engadine Valley of Switzerland’s most eastern canton, Graubünden. It’s a traditionally Romansch-speaking valley, although Swiss-German predominates these days. With the border so close there are also many Italian instructors inadvertently teaching the tiny ski-goggled obstacles around me to perfectly pronounce “pizza” and “spaghetti” as they learn to stop and go. At the Swiss Ski School we’re one funicular and a horse-drawn sleigh ride above St Moritz. It’s the country’s oldest ski school, and some even say winter sports were born in this region. Only 150 years ago the Swiss Alps were a summertimeonly tourism destination. Then Johannes Badrutt,
the original owner of what is now Kulm Hotel, convinced some English guests to visit in winter by offering them free unlimited accommodation. After several months they returned home – suntanned and high on endorphins – to rave about the revelation of “dry cold”. Although I’m learning to ski on a slope with cartoondecorated dividers, chocolate-bar–shaped poles and a rainbow archway over the magic carpet, Susi respects I’m an adult and doesn’t talk pizza and spaghetti to me. Her instruction isn’t technical but, rather, encourages intuitive skiing. We discard my ski poles, she holds my hand for a bit then, within half an hour, I’m independently weaving between the Toblerones.
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“Let’s see if you can really ski,” Susi soon says, directing me to a more advanced beginner slope. At first I skid athletically into the soft edge because it’s too steep to manage a turn, but then make it the rest of the way down feeling in control. After a few more times around I call it quits while I’m still warm, dry and on a high. At the ski school café we rehydrate with Rivella, a traditional Swiss softdrink made with milk whey, and a bowl of Engadine-style barley soup. Back down in town we visit Hatecke and try slices of cured beef, goat and venison sourced from the local area and air-dried in the traditional Graubünden way. At Hauser each handmade chocolate I eat has passed through the hands of the pastry maker three times before reaching my lips. At Glattfelder we gaze upon golden caviar priced at thousands of dollars per kilo and realise that asking for a sample would make things awkward. As evening falls, celebrities I don’t recognise and fur-wrapped Russians on Orthodox Christmas holidays descend on Badrutt’s Palace, the capital of St Moritz glitz. Just up the road, Hauser is a more casual après ski hub where flaming towers of gas heating warm the outdoor bar and everyone assumes I’m a skier. And maybe now I am.
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swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
St Moritz hosted its first Winter Olympics in 1928, the ski school opened in 1929 and, in 1930, the town trademarked itself with a sun logo representing the 300-plus days of sunshine it sees each year. The resort town continues to be attractive to the rich and famous because of the area’s physical beauty and remoteness and a local population who are totally unmoved by celebrity.
St Moritz continues to be attractive to the rich and famous because of the area’s physical beauty and remoteness and a local population who are totally unmoved by celebrity.
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
All about: St Moritz •
St Moritz is located in Switzerland’s east on the southern side of the Alps
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Population: 5200 (although the number swells by thousands when seasonal workers arrive in winter)
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At 1822 metres, it is the highest town in Switzerland with a railway connection
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St Moritz enjoys more than 300 days of sunshine every year, explaining in part why it’s one of the country’s favourite destinations
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Well-regarded for its excellent downhill and cross-country skiing and snowboarding, St Moritz is also a popular destination for sailing during the summer months where a match race event is held on St Moritz Lake
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Horse lovers should mark two events on their calendars: the Cartier Polo World Cup on Snow (January) and the White Turf horse races (February) held on the frozen lake
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Switzerland: Basel
swiss-image.ch/Christof Schuerpf
03 Art & Soul
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Located on the border of Switzerland, France and Germany, this sophisticated city is a leader in the international arts and culture scene, writes Tatyana Leonov.
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
In Basel one wrong turn could lead to a remarkable historical discovery or perhaps even another country. The stunning metropolis is located at the frontier between France and Germany, tapping directly into the Rhine, and is one of the few places in the world where you can stand at the exact point where three countries meet. The unusual location gives the city an international ambience, one that entwines all three cultures to create an architectural and historical masterpiece.
You could spend hours, even days, wandering around the Old Town, where narrow laneways, regal squares and majestic medieval edifices transport you to another era. Münsterplatz is a good starting point for just about anything. The grand main square is a meeting place for locals and a thriving event location throughout the year. The famous red-walled Town Hall overlooks the square – so prestigious and prevailing in its central position – and it’s a striking building showcasing a mix of Gothic and Renaissance elements. The Basel Minster with its Romanesque features and stunning sandstone exterior is another architectural highlight, and particularly beautiful at dawn or dusk when the sun’s rays engulf its gothic towers. Culture aficionados will appreciate Basel’s museum offerings. With more than 40 in an area of just 37 square kilometres, there really is something for everyone. The Vitra Design Museum is housed in a rambunctiously modern building by Californian architect Frank Gehry and is ranked as one of the world’s most important design museums. Home to the largest and most significant public art collection in Switzerland, with work dating from the early 15th century to the present, is the Kunstmuseum Basel. The quirky-cool Museum Tinguely is dedicated to the life and work of sculptor and artist Jean Tinguely and features all kinds of eclectic displays, including kinetic art sculptures. Basel is also home the world’s largest collection of charming teddy bears and china dolls in all shapes, sizes and forms – there are more than 6000 exhibits in all – displayed across four levels at the unusually spectacular Speilzeug Welten Museum Basel.
Culture aficionados will appreciate Basel’s museum offerings. With more than 40 in an area of just 37 square kilometres, there really is something for everyone. 017
Basel for all seasons Basel at tHe Victoria 4 Days - 3 Nights
Traditional hotel with many modern comforts located next to the Basel rail station. 107 rooms are equipped with private facilities, phone, internet access.
Package includes: • 3 nights accommodation at the Hotel Victoria with private facilities and breakfast daily • Swiss Card with 2 first-class transfers (from/to Swiss border or airport) • Service charges, taxes and VAT
Hotel Victoria, Bedroom
Package Price From 765pp* *Per person in australian dollars. Based on standard room, twin share. Prices are subject to currency fluctuations.
Your Destination Specialist | w w w.swit zerlandholidays.com | 130 0 65 10 65 Holidays on Location | Level 5, 1 Princess Street, Kew Vic 3101 Australia | Tel: +61 3 9851 8747 | Fax: +61 3 9851 8720 | www.holidaysonlocation.com | T/A Licence 30186 | ABN 52 005 586 121
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
All about: Basel •
Basel is located in Switzerland’s north where it meets both the borders of France and Germany
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Population: 170,000
Basel is also a perpetually busy town when it comes to festivities, with a plethora of events showcasing everything the metropolis offers held throughout the year. From carnivals to football celebrations, jazz festivals to magical Christmas markets in the winter, Basel is a year-round destination. One of the most distinguished events, famous worldwide, is Art Basel. Held in June each year, this international art fair, with its modern and contemporary offerings, put the city on the global art map.
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The city is situated on the Rhine, and has Switzerland’s only cargo port
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When flying into Basel, you actually land in France
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Basel Minster, a church made of red sandstone, is one of the best examples of late Romanesque/early Gothic architecture in the region. It was built between 1019 and 1500
The beauty of Basel is that it can be whatever you wish. If all you want to do after a long day exploring is unwind with a coffee-teamed basler läckerli, a traditional hard spiced biscuit, or a good wine and a view, Basel astounds here too. The Rhine riverfront is a picturesque spot to kick back in one of the many waterfront cafes and restaurants and simply take it all in.
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In 1996, the city was awarded the Wakker Prize, which recognises a municipality’s development and preservation of its architectural heritage. You can see buildings by Renzo Piano, Zaha Hadid, Frank Gehry and Alvaro Siza Vieira around the city
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Switzerland: Lake Geneva Region
swiss-image.ch/Marcus Gyger
04 A Vine Romance
Perfect vistas, the chance to walk and cycle from village to village and vineyards producing rare wines‌ Brian Johnston spends 48 hours near the shores of Lake Geneva.
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swiss-image.ch/Christof Schuerpf swiss-image.ch/Lucia Degonda
Day One: Morning
The roads along the Swiss shores of Lake Geneva only cover about 100 kilometres, but take your time. They meander high above the yacht-studded lake, the French Alps a snowy panorama beyond. Castles brood, cycling and walking are excellent, and museums intrigue. Better yet, cellar doors provide an excuse for a drop of wine along the way.
As you leave Geneva, you’re in what is known simply as La Côte (the shore). Stop at Nyon to admire Mont Blanc, western Europe’s highest peak, from the castle promenades. Roman columns and a statue of Julius Caesar take pride of place on the ramparts. It was the Romans who introduced vineyards here, and many Swiss wines still have Latin names. La Côte is dense with vineyards that produce seductively fruity Chasselas blanc and some fine reds. Pinot noir and Gamay are the most common varieties, while the rare Plant Robert is grown around the village of Cully. Stretch the legs following the yellow walking signs through the countryside beyond Nyon. At Luins you can hike through vine terraces to a tiny church
dating from 1393. The path then passes through oak and chestnut forests and opens onto meadows high above the lake. Another walking trail links the villages of Lully, Begnins and Féchy through more scenic vineyards, snow peaks showing off on the horizon.
Day One: Afternoon
Drop down to the lakefront at Morges, dominated by a medieval castle, where a lively weekend market provides treats for a lunchtime picnic on flower-filled promenades. Head to hilly Lausanne for an overnight. Its upper town is cluttered with university buildings, student cafés and bookshops, and dominated by a Gothic cathedral. Down on the lakefront you’ll find the IOC’s headquarters and its excellent Olympic Museum, with statue-studded gardens.
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Montreux for all seasons Lake Geneva Dreams 4 Days - 3 nights
ChoCoLate train montreux
montreux to Broc
Package includes: • Swiss Card with 2 first-class rail transfers (from/to Swiss border or airport rail station) • 3 Nights at the Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic in Montreux in a standard double/twin room with private facilities and breakfast daily • Excursion on the Chocolate Train^ with seat reservations • Service charges and taxes
Package Price From a$1301pp* *Per person in australian dollars. Based on 4-star hotel in a standard room, twin share, mid season (1 may - 3 Jul 2014). high season rates on application. Prices are subject to currency fluctuations.
Ride in first-class comfort in a “Belle Epoque” Pullman car, vintage 1915 or the modern panorama car affording stunning views of the vineyards surrounding Montreux and medieval Gruyères. Depart Montreux on the Swiss Riviera, ascend to Gruyères, home of Gruyère cheese, and continue to Broc, where the chocolate factory is located.
^Tour must start Mon, Wed or Thu from May - June & Sep - Oct. Daily during Jul and Aug 2014.
Your Destination Specialist | w w w.swit zerlandholidays.com | 130 0 65 10 65 Holidays on Location | Level 5, 1 Princess Street, Kew Vic 3101 Australia | Tel: +61 3 9851 8747 | Fax: +61 3 9851 8720 | www.holidaysonlocation.com | T/A Licence 30186 | ABN 52 005 586 121
Day Two: Morning
Day Two: Afternoon
For an active alternative, hire a bike and make use of the plentiful, marked and challengingly hilly cycle trails. A paragliding flight from the mountains behind provides one of Europe’s most heart-stopping views.
Neighbouring Montreux is equally genteel, with glorious promenades that run for kilometres, and cafés where you can indulge in improbable ice-cream concoctions. Walk or cycle along the lakeshore to Switzerland’s most visited building, the magnificently battlemented Château de Chillon, then catch the lake steamer back. Beautiful.
Follow the Route des Vignerons (winemakers road) through villages teetering on the increasingly steep and spectacular lakeshore, where dizzying Lavaux vine terraces tumble. The Lavaux Vinorama introduces you to this now World Heritage–listed wine region, and you can taste wines at a dozen cellar doors such as Bacchus Vinobar or Caveau Corto. Because virtually all Swiss wine is consumed domestically, cellar doors are an unassuming, agreeably un-commercial experience.
The eastern end of Lake Geneva is nicknamed the Swiss Riviera for its balmy microclimate. Elegant Vevey was once home to Charlie Chaplin, who retreated here with his family for his final 20 years and is now buried in the cemetery. His villa is being converted to a $60-million museum, set to open next year, celebrating his life and cinema career.
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The Lake Geneva region is located in the south-west corner of Switzerland near the French border
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There are two cities on the shores of the lake: Lausanne (population 130,000) and Montreux (25,500)
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The region has two main wine-growing areas called La Côte (between Geneva and Lausanne) and the UNESCO World Heritage–listed Lavaux (between Lausanne and Montreux)
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Visitors can take a 12-minute journey on the wine train from Vevey into the vineyard village of Chexbres
swiss-image.ch/Andy Mettler
All about: Lake Geneva Region
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05 Lucerne Focus
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With his family in tow, Mal Chenu discovers the heights of Mount Pilatus, the region’s rich history and some fortifying pie. swiss-image.ch/Luzern Tourismus AG
Switzerland: Lucerne
swiss-image.ch/Christian Perret
“This has to be the coolest train in the world,” exclaims Daniel. “And the scariest!” Our nine-year-old is mightily impressed by the 125-year-old Cog Railway as it pulls its way up 2132 metres to the summit of Mount Pilatus, near Lucerne. The incline – up to 48 per cent in places – is the steepest in the world and is “scary” because we have ascended into clouds and can feel the damp. The ethereal clang of cow bells and mooing comes out of the mist. Daniel’s wide-eyed excitement is contagious and we are all laughing and having a lovely time.
Pilatus is the highlight of the so-called Golden Round Trip that showcases the natural beauty and technological flair of this exquisite region. It begins with a cruise on Lake Lucerne, with its postcard mountainous backdrop and pretty lakeside villages, before we arrive at Alpnachstad and begin our ascent. At the summit the view is everything you imagine, with 73 snow-capped peaks, including the Eiger and Jungfrau, visible on a clear day. Felicity, now 18 and possibly on one of her last family holidays with the rest of us, takes stylish selfies against the amazing backdrop while Daniel helpfully scoops up snowballs and hurls them at her. After a hearty lunch of Swiss cheese raclette, Pilatus rosti and a most agreeable Swiss Pinot, as well as the obligatory trip to the gift shop for, yes, a snow globe, we take the aerial cableway and panorama gondola down the other side of the mountain. This is way scarier than the railway, but this time it is Mum who is freaking out, much to Daniel’s amusement. The cableway offers more spectacular vistas down to the halfway point at Fräkmüntegg, where we find more kid-friendly fun in the form of a rope park, flying fox and a 1350-metre steel channel toboggan run. The final leg down finishes at Kriens, an easy 15-minute bus ride from central Lucerne. (Another superb mountain experience just an hour from Lucerne is the Engelberg Valley and Titlis glacier, accessible by revolving cableway. In winter it’s all about skiing, including a 12-kilometre descent, and in summer you can enjoy themed walking trails, mountain biking, rafting, canyoning, golf and even paragliding.)
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Experience Switzerland like never before
COUNTRY ROADS OF SWITZERLAND Spend two glorious nights in the 14th century city of Lucerne, where you will visit Chapel Bridge and the sorrowful Lion Monument, amongst other sights. Embark on a thrilling excursion by cable car and cog-wheel railway to the summit of Mount Pilatus, and enjoy stunning views over the lakes, countryside and surrounding hills. These are just a few highlights of this intimate 14-day journey of discovery. In your free time, why not enjoy a trip to Mount Titlis in Engelberg.
Insightvacations.com Copyright by Switzerland Tourism By-line: swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
For more information, contact the Switzerland Experts at Insight Vacations on 1300 237 886
IV978AS
swiss-image.ch/Christian Perret
Back in Lucerne, and after a revitalising pie at Heini tea room/bakery in Bahnhofplatz, we explore the Old City on the right bank of the River Reuss. We wander through Weinmarket, Kornmarkt and Hirschenplatz, three pretty cobblestone squares in the town centre. Many of the heritage buildings – restaurants, shops, hotels and residences – feature colourful fresco façades. Felicity is delighted with the shops and markets; Daniel just wants more pie. We see the stately old Hofkirche and St Peters churches, both rich in history and architecture, before crossing the Chapel Bridge, a stunning wooden span built in the 14th century with ancient triangular paintings in the gables. There are two more main heritage bridges in Lucerne, each boasting pictorial panoplies of history, civic pride and religion, including the evocative Danse Macabre (Dance of Death) series dating from around 1616 on the Spreuer Bridge. Lucerne is also the starting point for the Wilhelm Tell Express, a picturesque Lake Lucerne/Gotthard Railway sojourn that includes a three-hour paddle-steamer cruise and lunch followed by a two-hour train trip crossing the Swiss Alps from north to south. The train circles to gain elevation, runs through the 15-kilometre Gotthard tunnel and terminates in the sunny, Italian-speaking town of Locarno in Ticino, another must-see region in this surpassingly gorgeous part of the world.
All about: Lucerne •
Lucerne is located in north-central Switzerland and is the capital of the Canton of Lucerne
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Population: 80,000
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It is located on Lake Lucerne, on either side of the Reuss River, with views of the Swiss Alps including Mount Pilatus and Rigi
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The city grew up around Sankt Leodegar Abbey, founded in 840AD, which burnt to the ground in 1633 and was replaced by the Church of St Leodegar, still the city’s most important church to this day
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Music looms large in Lucerne, which hosts a number of festivals, including the Lucerne Festival for classical music, B-Sides with acts from indie and experimental rock and other avant-garde genres, Lucerne Blues Festival, and the Blue Balls Festival, which brings together jazz, blues and punk
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The city is well-known for its historic bridges, the most famous being Chapel Bridge, dating back to 1333 – its features include a tower that predates the bridge and was, long ago, used as a prison and torture chamber
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Switzerland: Interlaken
swiss-image.ch/Markus Aebischer
06 Peak Conditions
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Take a deep breath and jump right in. There’s plenty of adventure on offer near Interlaken.
swiss-image.ch/Stefan Hunziker
1. Great highs
Imagine travelling at speeds of more than 80 kilometres an hour strapped into a harness. First Flyer is an 800-metre-long steel cable on Jungfrau linking First to Schreckfeld and, at 50 metres off the ground, this rapid descent is sure to bring on a huge rush of adrenaline. First Flyer runs in both winter (December to March) and summer (May to October) offering very different panoramas as you zip to the end.
2. No wings required
What are mountains for if not jumping off? Paragliding near Interlaken is one of life’s bucket-list activities. From the launch zone high in the Alps, you take a short run down a grassy strip and lift off into the air. For the next 10 to 20 minutes, you’ll be flying high, enthralled by views of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, as well as the beautiful city and surrounding lakes, before touching down gently in Interlaken. No experience is necessary, since you’ll be strapped to a trained pilot. If flying isn’t for you, take a seat on the Terrace at the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel, and instead watch the gliders descend with a glass of Val d’Eve Blanc de Blanc in your hand. The lakeside city of Interlaken is not only impossibly beautiful, surrounded as it is by majestic snow-capped peaks (including the third highest in the Swiss Alps, Jungfrau), it’s also the perfect destination for adventurers. Whether you take a softlysoftly approach to thrills and spills or are a full-on adrenaline junkie, the city and its surrounds offer unbeatable experiences you’ll never forget. Here are five you’ll definitely want to try.
3. Castle in the air
Located in the Bernese Alps, Harder Kulm is Interlaken’s home mountain. A funicular zips to the 1322-metre summit in just eight minutes, depositing travellers near the restaurant built to look like a small castle. During summer, it’s worth rising early and heading to the peak on Sunday mornings, where
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breakfast is served on the sun terrace with gorgeous, uninterrupted views of the city below. Vertiginous vistas of the region are revealed through the glass surface of the Two Lakes Bridge, near the restaurant. The top of Harder Kulm is also the start of a number of hiking trails, ranging from the easy Harder Kulm Trail (50 minutes) to the trek to Augstmatthorn, which takes a solid five-and-a-half hours.
4. The little engine that can
5. Hitting the wall
Normally you’d have to be a mountaineer to experience the thrill of climbing Eiger’s famed north face. The 2000-metre wall rises above Grindelwald and was first climbed in 1938 by an expedition team made up of Austrians and Germans who originally started the ascent as two separate groups. Although it’s been climbed many times since, it still offers many challenges. You won’t have to worry about rock falls when you join Eiger Vision’s tour that heads up the mountain by train before sending guests, tethered to professional guides, out on to rocky ledges far above the valley floor. You’ll feel as though you’re on top of the world.
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swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
Half an hour from Interlaken is Brienz, a picturesque village on the shore of its namesake lake. From here you can climb aboard the steam train, with its open-sided carriages, to make the ascent to Brienzer Rothorn at 2350 metres. From this magical peak you can hike down to Planalp or take a cable car to Sörenberg.
All about: Interlaken-Jungfrau •
Interlaken is located in the canton of Bern in central Switzerland
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Population: 5500
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The city sits between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz and on the Aar River linking the two lakes
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It was a popular destination for tourists as far back as 1800, thanks mainly to the paintings of Swiss landscape artists such as Franz Niklaus König
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For those with a head for heights take the Jungfrau Railways from Interlaken to the top of Europe seeing three peaks, Mönch, Eiger and Jungfrau
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Each year in September, about 3500 runners converge on the city to take part in the Jungfrau Marathon, which climbs 1800 metres during its 42 kilometre length to finish in Kleine Scheidegg
4–19 July - Montreux Jazz Festival
Music’s greatest talents converge on the shores of Lake Geneva for this renowned festival. The program is released on 3 April.
18–26 July - Blue Balls Festival Lucerne
swiss-image.ch/Remy Steinegger
2014 Uncovered
More than 120 events make up this annual rock music festival that also features a healthy dose of art and film.
Montreux
6–16 August - Festival del Film Locarno Thousands of film fans, industry heavyweights and Hollywood superstars meet to share their passion for cinema.
Rock and roll hits the heights with Deep Purple headlining.
5–13 April - Lucerne Festival
Get your fix of classical music, including a concert celebrating the 85th birthday of Bernard Haitink, one of the greatest conductors of our time.
19–22 June - Art Basel
During the past 40 years, this has become one of the world’s most important art fairs, featuring modern and contemporary work from more than 300 galleries.
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28 August - Weltklasse Zürich
Outside of the Olympics, this is one of the most important athletics meetings in the world, and it all takes place on one day.
4–7 September - Omega European Masters Crans-Montana
Hosted on the spectacular Crans-sur-Sierre course, this is one of the most prestigious golf competitions played in Europe.
27 September–March 2015 Alvar Aalto Exhibition Basel
The Vitra Design Museum plays host to a display of the work of one of the leading lights of modernism.
swiss-image.ch/Renato Bagattini
5 April - SnowpenAir Jungfrau
Lucerne Festival
swiss-image.ch/Elge Kenneweg
swiss-image.ch/Martin Graf
Blue Balls Festival
Art Basel Montreux Jazz Festival
Vitra Design Museum
swiss-image.ch/Feliz Navidad
swiss-image.ch/Denis Emery
European Masters
swiss-image.ch/Stephan Engler
swiss-image.ch/Elge Kenneweg
Festival del Film Locarno
Art Basel
The Practical Guide to Switzerland Excited about discovering everything Switzerland has to offer? Here are a few tips for getting the most from your visit.
Getting There
A number of airlines offer daily connections from Australia to Switzerland and Europe via the Middle East or Asia. The national carrier, SWISS (www.swiss.com), flies direct to Zürich from Hong Kong, Bangkok, Singapore, Shanghai or Tokyo. Alternatively, if you’re touring Europe the flight from London takes just one hour and 40 minutes to get to Zürich, or you can catch the Eurostar to Geneva.
Getting Around
swiss-image.ch/Christof Schuerpf
The public transport system connecting Switzerland’s cities and towns is one of the most efficient and safe in the world. Travel in comfort and arrive relaxed – the system allows travellers to book tickets then sit back and enjoy views of the surrounding countryside on their way from A to B.
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The Swiss Travel System has a network of 26,000 kilometres of public transport, utilising trains, buses and ships. The timetables offer regular and reliable services with coordinated connections linking some 150 services. Most enticing for the traveller though are some of Switzerland’s world-famous panorama routes, such as the Glacier Express and Bernina Express.
Discover Scenic Switzerland
The Panorama Routes are the gems in Switzerland’s transport crown. Travelling from sparkling lakes to snow-capped summits they allow visitors to discover scenic Switzerland over the course of a few hours or a couple of days. Step aboard, relax and see how high-tech transport can combine with heavenly landscapes. These are just some of the routes you can explore. GoldenPass Line From Montreux to Lucerne, passing through Gstaad and Interlaken, this route takes in the lakes and Swiss Riviera. Since it takes an entire day, tickets also include overnight stays in Montreux and Lucerne. Wilhelm Tell Express Start onboard a historic paddlewheel streamer in Lucerne, enjoy lunch on the lake then transfer to the panorama coach – complete with huge windows – of the Gotthard Railway for the onward journey to Locarno. Bernina Express Passing through 55 tunnels and crossing 196 bridges, this journey from Chur or Davos, through St Moritz to Tirano in Italy scales massive heights. It climbs the 2253-metre Bernina Pass, where you’ll see spectacular glaciers and marvel at the mountainous beauty.
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
Voralpen-Express This route takes in the beauty of the Alps foothills, starting in Lucerne and travelling to St Gallen. Glacier Express Linking two of the country’s major resorts, Zermatt and St Moritz, this train has comfortable coaches with panorama windows. You need them to take in the spectacular alpine landscape, from the Rhine gorge up to the Oberalp Pass.
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swiss-image.ch/Andrea Badrutt
Heavenly Highlights
Travelling in Switzerland offers so much diversity. You can cruise on Lake Hallwil or Lake Ägeri, or take a steam train from Lake Brienz to Brienzer Rothorn before transferring to a cable car to Rothorn. Take the Jungfrau Railway, departing Interlaken, to Europe’s highest station, Jungfraujoch at 3454 metres, and be at the peak of the continent. Up here, there’s also the chance to take the cogwheel railway to Schynige Platte.
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All The Details
For visitors from overseas, there is a range of different tickets available for purchase that include unlimited journeys, transfers from the airport, free admission to museums, a reduced price on mountain railways, many other offers and bonuses, and free travel for children younger than 16 if accompanied by at least one parent.
Swiss Card If you plan to base yourself in one city but want the flexibility to explore other regions, this could be the ticket for you. It allows a return journey from either a border railway station or airport, then a 50 per cent discount on train, bus, boat and mountain railways throughout your stay.
Swiss Transfer Pass Just spending time in one spot? The Transfer Pass includes the journey to and from either a border railway station or one of Switzerland’s airports to your destination via the most direct route. This ticket must be purchased at least five days before your arrival.
Swiss Half Fare Card Staying in Switzerland a little longer and plan to mix up lingering and going on excursions? Purchase the Half Fare Card before you arrive. You’ll then be eligible for a 50 per cent discount on journeys throughout the country’s transport system. Swiss Family Card If you’re visiting with the whole family, ask for a Family Card either at a railway station or when you purchase a ticket online. It allows children under the age of 16 to travel for free when accompanied by at least one parent. For more details or to order any of these tickets, visit www.MySwitzerland.com/rail.
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
Swiss Flexi Pass Combine all the benefits of the Swiss Pass with the flexibility to slow down and soak up the Swiss atmosphere. Want to spend four or five days in one city? It doesn’t matter. The Flexi Pass is available for travel over three to six days in a month, with savings available for groups and families.
swiss-image.ch/Beat Mueller
Swiss Pass This all-in-one pass allows you travel on trains, buses and ships across Switzerland – take in the panorama routes, 75 cities and towns and check out your choice of 470 museums and attractions for one price. Swiss Passes are available for a range of time periods – from four days to a month – in first or second class, with savings for groups, those younger than 26 and families.
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Slow Route Through Switzerland
If you prefer to use a few muscles while travelling, Switzerland is the perfect destination. Get active and plan your journey. You can explore 9000 kilometres of walking trails, jump on a mountain bike, canoe on idyllic lakes and along rivers or, for something different, lace up your inline skates and take to the 1100 kilometres of skating trails. You can plan all your alternative journeys using the free SwitzerlandMobility App or by checking out the SwitzerlandMobility section of the My Switzerland website (www.myswitzerland.com).
Documentation
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swiss-image.ch/Christian Perret
swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
Australian and New Zealand citizens do not require a visa for visits to Switzerland (or any of the 26 member states of the Schengen area) of up to 90 days.
While You’re Here... ❑
Visit Switzerland’s four-legged heroes who save the lives of those lost in the snow at Great Saint Bernhard in Martigny.
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For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have been visiting the stunning Benedictine Monastery in Einsiedeln with its famous Black Madonna that dates back to the 15th century.
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Bern’s Old Town, founded in 1191 and featuring six kilometres of limestone buildings and medieval arcades, is framed by the Aare River and offers spectacular views of the Alps.
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The Trient Ravine, 200 metres deep and with a 114-metre-high waterfall, was carved into Mont Blanc rock by a wild mountain stream. A bridge spanning the gorge allows you get up close to appreciate this natural wonder.
swiss-image.ch/Thomas Ulrich
Another 10 attractions you’ll want to check off your Swiss must-do list.
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Augusta Raurica, near Basel, is an extremely well preserved Roman town. You can visit its museums as well as the Roman domestic animal park, displaying animal species like woolly grazing pigs they farmed 2000 years ago. Between June and September the Alpine Flower Garden near Davos comes alive with the blooms of about 3500 plant species from around the world.
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Go on a walking safari and spot ibexes, chamois, marmots and other animals in the Swiss National Park in the Engadine.
Get another view of a glacier when you head down the 70-metre tunnel into the heart of the Fairy Glacier in Saas Fee. The ice surrounding you is thousands of years old. Plunge into the natural spring waters, heated to about 32 degrees Celcius and rich in minerals, at the Gruyère Baths in Charmay.
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Take a guided tour of the Palais des Nations, the European headquarters of the UN in Geneva, where more than 8000 meetings of nations happen each year.
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swiss-image.ch/Christof Sonderegger
Did you know...
Just 20 minutes from Zürich is Europe’s largest cultural centre for photography? At Winterthur you’ll find the Fotomuseum Winterthur and the Swiss Foundation for Photography. Swimming pools become the centre of the social scene during Zürich’s summer? Called badi-bars, these lounges on the water’s edge are the place to chill, enjoy a drink and listen to music.
swiss-image.ch/Beat Mueller
You can walk across Europe’s highest suspension bridge? The Titlis Cliff Walk spans 98 metres, is not even a metre wide and is 460 metres above a glacier, visible on clear days.
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Titlis is home to the world’s only revolving gondola? The Rotair, launched last November, spins around high above the glacier giving those within a stunning 360-degree panorama.
You can strap on snowshoes to explore the Swiss countryside? Nature Escapade conducts hikes around snowy Lake Geneva and the Montreux Riviera – sometimes even after the sun goes down.
Close to a million people take to the streets of Zürich each August? Not to protest but to celebrate freedom, love and tolerance during Street Parade, Europe’s biggest celebration of electronic music.
Chocolate isn’t just for eating? At the Swiss Museum of Transport in Lucerne it has the leading role in the Swiss Chocolate Adventure, a multimedia exhibition exploring the origin, production and transport of our favourite sweet treat. Opening in June.
Sherlock Holmes was killed off in Switzerland? Sir Arthur Conan Doyle so loved Reichenbach Falls in the Bernese Alps he chose that spot to dispatch his famous detective in the story “The Final Problem”. Roger Federer always tries to be at his home tournament? If you want to see him in action, book a ticket to the Swiss Indoors Basel in October, one of the most significant sporting events in Switzerland.
There’ll be hard rock on the slopes? SnowpenAir takes place against the backdrop of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau each April. This year, Deep Purple is headlining, but you might want to start planning for 2015.
The only video recording of Marvin Gaye in concert was made at the Montreux Jazz Festival? The footage is part of the 5000 hours of Montreux archives, included on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register and now being digitised. The tapes are broadcast at the Montreux Jazz Cafes in Geneva, Zürich and London.
swiss-image.ch/M. Bauer
You can test your mettle against some of the world’s best athletes? Head to Lausanne’s completely refurbished Olympic Museum to explore the history of the event and get involved in all the interactive displays.
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Stanserhorn, Lucerne and Lake Lucerne Region
Head of the heights – with the Swiss Peak Pass.
Spectacular views, stunning rides, simple access – all this and more awaits you when exploring the scenic splendors of the Swiss Alps with the new Swiss Peak Pass in 2014. MySwitzerland.com/rail