Retro Is All The Rage
A Retrospective Era:
The Resurgence of Nostalgia
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Photograph: Own source (Stephen Kascher Gallery)
Advertisement from Vogue November 2016
This Chanel advertisement corresponds to the retro theme that is shown throughout the entire magazine, with the pastel colours, chequered floor, the timeless chanel suit, and the brand itself reminds of a decade where fashion got a whole new meaning.
CONTENTS 4 Introduction
5-8 Shop Report - Liberty
5-8
19-20
9-14 Anna Wintour Costume Center Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion 15-18 The penonemon of Film & Television
21-24
19-20 Prints
9-14
21-24 Fabrics & Textiles 25-28 Miles Aldridge: Please return polaroid
25-28
29-32 Youth group: IT-girls 33 Conclusion
15-18
34 References & Bibliography
29-32
A
RETROSPECTIVE ERA
The Resurgence of Nostalgia an issue by Hedvig Storm Wergeland
T
hese past few seasons the fashion industry has taken a different turn than what it
usually does. It is hard to judge the current era anymore, as the retro rage has taken over everyone’s wardrobes. Everything from the style and shape of a bathing suit to the warmest winter coat is influenced by the way it would be fashionable from merely 10, to an exceeding 100 years’ prior today. For the generation that never got to fully observe these trends, but are constantly reminded of how it all looked through some of the most memorable movies and photography’s, they certainly get to indulge it all now. The fashion industry is revisiting every decade from the previous century and beyond, and there are many signs that it is
gradually moving into the noughties (00s) period, considering there have been sufficient years in-between before it can finally be considered as somewhat retro, and become ”cool” again (Eror, 2015). This essay will take on the different elements that showcase the contemporary state in both the fashion industry, and people’s overall approach towards the nostalgic themes, and where it is all leading to. What exactly has inspired the fashion industry, as much as the rest of the world, to look backwards in this way, more than ever before? Brexit and the impending Trump presidency, mean that uncertain times are ahead. The world is standing still, and has equally been set back several decades, as conservatism appears to
have an upward surge. People are escaping todays troubles by looking back at more “innocent” times. Even though there have been other significant worries in the past, the generation that never lived it only see the surface that was covered in extraordinary clothes, music, and art that represented the different decades. Some of the major problems the world is facing today, and has for some time, are environmental challenges with the climate, overpopulation, and food production, to name a fair few. Stephen Hawking himself has said that we are currently in “the most dangerous time for our planet” (Hawking, 2016). Generation Y, more commonly referred to as “millennials”, must face these challenges alongside the generations to follow, and are unintentionally building a similar surface that will represent this decade. In this case the surface will be as much of a combination of the present, and the past. Is the world really looking back out of fear? This issue will undertake current fashion trends, as well as looking elsewhere and beyond to understand the surface that will define a decade that is soon coming to an end. §
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Shop Report Liberty
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iberty, the popular department store in London, has a retro driven vibe throughout its 5 floor plan, looking at the womenswear, accessories, home dÊcor, and even minor things such as candy with its vintage retention, dial phones, and vinyl players was incorporated into the nostalgic atmosphere. All the categories within each and every floor at Liberty is pointing towards this contemporary state, showing how influences from so many dierent decades are corresponding to the retro craze in the fashion industry. Decades such as 60s and 70s, especially proves itself a vast trend at the moment, where designers such as Paul Smith and Vivetta had their collections and visual merchandising representative to these exact periods. Both designer brands had incorporated A-line dresses, belted blazers, hip-hugging flare trousers, and long sleeved mid-dresses, with significant amounts of floral prints and other artworks throughout these themes, giving an authentic throwback from the decades that are known as the more influential ones to this date, with retro styled prints and dynamic colours. Vivetta display
Paul Smith display
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The womenswear department has a wide range of collections from different designers, with styles, textiles, prints, and embellishments inspired by the last couple of centuries, with designs including high neck gowns, kitten heels, full skirts, shearling coats, velvet suits, reclaimed Levi’s jeans, pleated skirts and dresses, and colourful 80s related sportswear that were incorporated into the womenswear section, giving a minor idea of what else was actually displayed throughout the entire department floor, proving the diverse trends and open-mindedness that has taken on in the fashion industry. §
Photographs: Own source
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”looking at the womenswear, accessories, home décor, and even minor things such as candy with its vintage retention, dial phones, and vinyl players was incorporated into the nostalgic atmosphere.”
Photographs: Own source
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T
he fashion exhibition at the Met museum “Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion�, justifies in every way how a piece of clothing can tell a story, and define a specific era or decade. With high fashion clothing from 18th century to the present shown throughout the entire display, the exhibition allows its visitors to travel through the last two centuries to uncover some of the most essential designs in history that would change the definition of fashion forever. The exhibition also demonstrates the development of womenswear over the last centuries, from Victorian gowns, the bias cut, the Chanel suit, the slim-fit trouser, the bustier, to more revealing and exposing designs from present-day (example: dress from Versace 2016). The
House of Lanvin Winter 1926-27
House of Lanvin Winter 1928
Anna Wintour Costume Center Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion designs showcased were from both unknown, and some of the most legendary fashion designers this world has ever faced, such as Chanel, Dior, John Galliano, Alexander Mcqueen, Azzedine Alaïa, and Yves Saint Laurent. Some of the designs can be explained as more conventional than what is usually seen on catwalks today, but designers still find inspiration from these very same decades showcased throughout the exhibition. Illustrated in John Galliano’s design for Maison Margiela S/S ’15, taking inspiration from a French red wool broadcloth from 1787-92. Some older designs were very modern for its time, such as the “evening dress” from House of Worth, ca. 1931, which could have easily fitted in High Fashion today. § Photographs: Own source
Versace 2016
Viktor & Rolf S/S’10
Unknown 1870-1879
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Alexander Mcqueen Left: S/S’95, Right: S/S’11
Maison Margiela S/S’15
Unknown, French 1787-92
Photographs: Own source
Iris Van Herpen A/W 2012-13
Jean Paul Gaultier A/W 2008-9
House of Worth ca. 1931
Lanvin-Castello 1956 STORM DECEMBER 2016 / 12
Yves Saint Laurent Left: S/S’14, Right: 1971
Hussein Chalayan 1999
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Chanel A/W 2012-13
Chanel 2015
Charles James 1949
Photographs: Own source
House of Dior Left: A/W 2014-15 Right: A/W 1947-48
Commes des Garcons S/S’15
Left: Azzedine Alaïa S/S’94 Right: Charles James 1951-52
Tom Ford Left: A/W 2014-15 Right: A/W 1967-68 STORM DECEMBER 2016 / 14
The phenomenon of Film & Television GEEK C’EST CHIC Above: Gwyneth Paltrow as Margot Tanenbaum (The Royal Tanenbaums, 2001) Right: Gucci Spring 2016
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Above: Stranger Things poster
F
Left and right: Stills from Stranger Things
ilm has for long been one of the biggest influences in fashion, always working closely together, and considering some of the key brands in the fashion industry were discovered through film, such as Givenchy (Breakfast at tiffany’s) and Burberry (Casablanca). Some of the biggest names in the industry today get their ideas from films. One of the most discussed collections is the very 70s retro, geek chic theme that Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, first interpreted for the brand in A/W ‘15, and has used as a reliant inspiration throughout all of his collections to this day. This theme was inspired by Gwyneth Paltrow’s character in Wes Andersons, The Royal Tanenbaum’s (2001), as Margot Tanenbaum. Even though the movie was released Photographs: IMdB, Getty Images, Vogue
a while ago, the idea was refreshing for both the fashion house and the entire industry (Yotka, 2016). Film and television being a universal and approachable source for people has always been a true inspiration when it comes to fashion and style, and it is often a starting point for upcoming trends if it does well. TV-series have become the “next big thing”, and various shows have become the hottest topic of conversation. Stranger things, a TV-series which was released this summer (Rotten Tomatoes, 2016), has been the biggest talk since early this summer, defining 2016 in so many ways. It was a nostalgic tribute to some of the classic movies from the 80’s, such as E.T., Stand by Me, and The STORM DECEMBER 2016 /
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Goonies. It successfully supplied nostalgia to those who did not even live during this decade. Magazine, Dazed & Confused, certainly grasped one of the shows’ main phenomenon’s; “If you didn’t immediately binge-watch the Duffer Brothers’ opus, you might have pinned its appeal on its 80s throwback aesthetic – the kind of flawlessly art-directed universe that fashion worships at the altar of” (Madsen, 2016). The show became an instant classic, and the overnight sensations starring the show became the hottest topic for one of the main events of the year; Halloween. The decade surrounding the show will most likely have its say on the catwalk for the up-coming seasons, as the actors portraying the main characters are already taking over a large range of fashion magazine covers including Dazed & Confused, So It Goes, and Interview. Designers that have payed homage to the Stranger Things decade already, are Marc Jacobs Resort 2017, with undeniable links to the pop fashion culture, and creative director Stuart Vevers of Coach Spring ‘17 with the majority of his range including American baseball varsity jackets and shearling coats, representing the fashion houses’ own native vintage theme. Honoured guests at the Coach fashion show we’re no other than the heroines, Millie Bobby Brown, and Winona Ryder from Stranger Things, sitting at the front row (Vogue). §
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Still from Stranger Things
“If you didn’t immediately binge-watch the Duffer Brothers’ opus, you might have pinned its appeal on its 80s throwback aesthetic – the kind of flawlessly art-directed universe that fashion worships at the altar of ” (Susanne Madsen, Dazed and Confused 6/12/16)
Photographs: WGSN, Pinterest, Vogue, Dazed digitals
Coach Spring’17
Marc Jacobs S/S’17
From left: Millie Bobby Brown and Winona Ryder sitting front row at Coach S/S’17
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PRINT REPORT
Dogtooth
Art print: The Mondrian dress 1965, by Yves Saint Laurent (Photo: Metmuseum)
“Various Various prints that defined some of the more memorable historical trends such as chequered, dogtooth, stripes, floral prints, and art prints have also officially reoccurred. ” Stylised retro florals at V&A: You say you want a revolution? Records and Rebels 1966-1970
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rints will be the hottest trend for the upcoming Spring/Summer season, with various artistic looking geometrical or abstract figures, florals, and stripes expressing the nostalgic theme that fashion designers are obsessed with. Various prints that defined some of the more memorable historical trends such as chequered, dogtooth, stripes, floral prints, and art prints have also officially reoccurred. (Hovhannisyan, 2016). From the London print design fair October 2016 there was presented forecasts for A/W’17/18 and S/S’18. The main trends for prints showcased were “textural shapes”,
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Photographs from catwalks: WGSN,
Textural Shapes and Artisitc Workings
Akris New York S/S’17
Retro Stylised Florals
Carven S/S’17
Balenciaga S/S’17 Marc Jacobs S/S’17
Maya Kantranzou S/S’17
Chequered and Stripes
“artistic workings”, and least surprisingly “stylised retro” (WGSN1, 2016). These print themes have already been seen on many catwalk shows for S/S’17, where designers have unique visions in recreating retro authenticity. Fashion houses such as Carven and Balenciaga both covered the stylised retro florals, Akris New York and Mary Kantrantzou illustrated geometrical figures in chunky, bold and vibrant patterns, and Marc Jacobs with combinations of florals, stripes, chequered, and colour blocking patterns. §
Pinterest Others: Own source
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FABRIC & TEXTILES
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umerous retro textiles have re-emerged this year, and are constantly appearing on the catwalk for the upcoming seasons. Defining textiles from the past include velvet, sheer, glossy leather, brocade, and lace that designers have incorporated into their S/S’17 themes, delivered in different styles and various colours, contributing to a modern-historical feel (WGSN2, 2016). These textiles emerged in different decades, and have found its way back onto the catwalk, where some of the biggest designers have already included them for the upcoming seasons, glossy leather by Barbara Bui and Saint Laurent, Sheer by Dior, Brocade by Burberry, Lace by Valentino and Alexander McQueen, and the never ending rage of velvet by Victoria Beckham. §
G
LOSSY LEATHER Saint Laurent S/S’17
Barbara Bui S/S’17
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Photographs from catwalks: Pinter
B
ROCADE
rest, Tumblr Others: Own source s
S
Burberry S/S’17
heer
Bella Hadid wearing Dior S/S’17
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ace
Burberry S/S’17
Valentino S/S’17
Alexander Mcqueen S/S’17
Jean Paul Gaultier, From Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion
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Photographs from catwalks: Pinterest
VET VEL
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t, Tumblr, Vogue Runway Others: Own sources
Victoria Beckham S/S’17
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Miles Aldrige: Please return polaroid
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ritish fashion photographer, Miles Aldridge, opened up for an exhibition at Steven Kascher Gallery, New York, to share 20 years’ worth of work captured in polaroid’s, visuals representing once again his abilities not only as a great fashion photographer, but as an outstanding artist. His po-
laroid’s are set up in their own original, cinematographic way, as he had created vintage scenarios for all of them. With the help of models posing in corresponding retro outfits, accessories, perfectly textured, wavy hair, and bright, vibrant coloured make up, the aesthetic of a vintage throwback was captured multiple times. His polaroid’s look like stills from old films, as Aldridge puts his models into action in some way, also never having them make eye contact with the camera, successfully creating life to the photography. Contemporary photography’s such as these have had an equivalent part as with film and television in bringing back the retro theme with nostalgic features, officially making it “cool”. The seductive, stark, and cool quality of a polaroid photo has been discovered by the youngest generations, and the polaroid camera has become one of the hottest accessories at the moment. §
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Photographs own source from Steven Kascher Gallery, NY
“In photography there is a reality so subtle that it becomes more real than reality� - Alfred Stieglitz
Photograph: Steven Kascher Gallery website
Photographs own source from Steven Kascher Gallery, NY
“SEDUCTIVE”
“STARK”
“COOL” 27
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Photograph: Steven Kascher Gallery website
Bella Hadid holding on to her polaroid camera (Photograph: Instyle)
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Youth Group:
I
“IT”-GIRLS
T-girl has got a new meaning, not referring only to “it”, but “IT”, as in Instagram. The most defining youth group of the 21st century are these girls and young women with thousands or millions of followers on Instagram, known for a specific success outside of the app, often as models or actresses, but also some that have earned their fame through online mediums. IT-girls are often well-known for their sense of style, beauty, and other admirations that are visible throughout their collection of photos. This particular youth group is defining the decade where fashion evolves from their start off point, by deciding indirectly what trends might end up on the catwalks the following seasons. By capturing millions of followers on social media, they are the ones now that
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are taking over the front row during fashion week, where their presence is very often more important than the actual show itself. These IT-girls include celebrities such as Bella Hadid, Suki Waterhouse, Lily-Rose Depp, Zoe Kravitz. The generation Y, A-listers, are constantly bringing back trends from several decades, and are frequently seen now wearing distinctive styles from the time they grew up, 90s and 00s. This involves comebacks such as Adidas tracksuits, other retro sportswear and labels, crop tops, lace-up, camouflage, and even flashing brands. These are all trends that were not so long ago considered “bad taste”, forcing the fashion industry to consider the taste and style of this decade for the upcoming seasons, as the
Photographs of IT-Girls: Pinterest, Insty
noughties is making its way to millennials mind-sets. The 90s grunge has already reached its peak with chokers, leather, plaid, and ripped denim. (Ospina, 2013) High Snobiety describes how the trends of the 00s is already re-emerging: “Just as enough time passes for one generation to finally get over their collective embarrassment at the ill-advised clothes that defined their youth, the fashion cycle comes full circle and they’re suddenly cool again.” (Eror, 2016). §
Wear the decades: GET INSPIRED BY THE IT-GIRLS
The Shearling Coat (here from ASOS)
Breton/Bakerboy hat (here from Nelly)
SUKI WATERHOUSE - 70s
yle, Weheartit Others: Own sources
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BELLA HADID - 90s and 00s
“Just as enough time passes for one generation to finally get over their collective embarrassment at the ill-advised clothes that defined their youth, the fashion cycle comes full circle and they’re sud-denly cool again.” (Aleks Erorr for High Snobiety, 2015) The tracksuit
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Camouflage
The denim ensemble
Saint Laurent
Vintage Adidas tracksuit jacket and bottoms
Balmain, Denim lace up dress
Photographs of IT-Girls: Getty images, Pint
LILY-ROSE DEPP
terest, Instagram Others: Own sources
ZOE KRAVITZ
Mix & Match like:
Conclusion
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ooking at the different aspects that have been reached by, or reached out to the retro rage, such as fashion designers, celebrities, photography’s, film and TVseries, there is no doubt that the resurgence of nostalgia has emerged due to people’s overall attachment to the last couple of centuries, seeing how it is all so well-received. One reason for this contemporary state is obvious, as retro objects and visuals have a somewhat distant, but authentic look in contrast to what is usually seen in modern times, people find all things old-fashioned and vintage original, interesting and edgy. The subconscious reason for how the retro rage has taken over however, is curious, whether it is influenced by some of the frightening circumstances the world is facing today, or if people are just simply looking back at the past with a smile, with optimism to the distant future, however or whatever it might turn into. §
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Photograph: Pinterest
References Hovhannisyan, A. (2016) Fall/ Winter 2016-2017 Print Trends [online], Fashionisers, Available from: http://www. fashionisers.com/trends/fall-winter-2016-2017-print-trends/ Ospina, M., S. (2013) The Vintage Fashion Comeback [online], Bustle, Available from: https://www.bustle.com/articles/10405-the-vintage-fashion-comeback-why-weve-returned-to-20th-century-classics Eror, A. (2015). Are we ready for a 2000s fashion revival? [online], High Snobiety. Available from: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/08/24/2000s-fashion-revival/ (accessed on 4/12/16) Hawking, S. (2016). This is the most dangerous time for our planet [online], The Guardian. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/dec/01/stephen-hawking-dangerous-time-planet-inequality (accessed on 4/12/16) Hub Pages, (2016). What exactly is a macro trend [online], Available from: http://hubpages.com/style/What-exactly-IS-a-macro-trend (accessed on 29/11/16) Madsen, S. (2016). Stranger Things Happened [online], Dazed Digital. Available from: http://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/33839/1/stranger-things-essay-duffer-brothers (accessed on 5/12/16) Met Museum, (2000-2016). Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History [online], Available from: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/C.I.69.23/ (accessed 6/12/16) Niven, L. (2016). When Vogue met Millie Bobby Brown [online], Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/article/when-vogue-met-millie-bobby-brown (accessed on) Rotten Tomatoes (2016). Stranger Things: Season 1 [online], Available from: https://www.rottentomatoes.com/tv/stranger_things/s01/ (accessed on 5/12/16) WGSN1, (2016). The London Print Design Fair – October 2016 [online], Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.westminster.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/68990/page/13 (accessed on 6/12/16) WGSN2, (2016). Key Textiles S/S 17 [online], Available from: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.westminster.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/68513/page/5 (accessed on 5/12/16) Yotka, S. (2016). Gucci Riffs on Margot Tenenbaum Yet Again [online], Vogue. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/13449216/gucci-spring-2017-mens-margot-tenenbaum-zebra-print/ (accessed on 30/11/16)
Bibliography Anna Wintour Costume Center, MET museum Masterworks: Unpacking Fashion (visited 02.12.16) http://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2016/masterworks Gibson, P.C. (2006), The Fashion Handbook: Analysing Fashion pp.20-28 Jackson, T. (2006), The Fashion Handbook: Fashion Design pp. 29-56 Jeatt, M. (2006), The Fashion Handbook: The future for fashion pp. 206-209 Miles Aldridge: Please return polaroid (visited 02.12.16) http://www.stevenkasher.com/exhibitions/miles-aldridge-please-return-polaroid Oliva, S. (2016). 2016 Summer Fashion Trends: the New Vintage [online], Vogue. Available from: http://www.vogue.it/en/trends/trend-of-the-day/2016/01/fashion-trend-summer-2016-neo-vintage#ad-image (accessed 1/12/16) STORM DECEMBER 2016 /
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