Downtown St. Paul Voice June 2020 by St. Paul Publishing Co.

Downtown St. Paul

Peppermint ice cream helps

A salute to the class of 2020 Page 4

Page 10

Volume 26 | Number 6

New islands at Pig’s Eye Lake

Tim Spitzack Editor

he U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, St. Paul District, is scheduled to begin a project this year that will build seven new islands in Pig’s Eye Lake, a backwater of the Mississippi River just east of downtown. The Corps will use material dredged from the river bottom to create low elevation islands with sand benches and native plantings. The goal is to reduce shoreline erosion, improve vegetation and create new habitat for waterfowl. The lake is home to the Pig’s Eye Island rookery, one of the largest in the state for birds that nest in colonies, including great egrets, black-crowned night herons, great blue herons, double-crested cormorants and American white pelicans. Water quality in the lake is poor due to sedimentation and run-off of pollutants. The lake is next to the former Pig’s Eye dump, which according to the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency, deposited more than 8 million cubic yards of residential and industrial waste into a 230-acre wetland between 1956 and 1972. From 1977-1985, the Metropolitan Council Wastewater Treatment Plant also dumped an estimated 236,000 cubic yards of wastewater treatment sludge ash there. Remediation efforts began in 1999 to remove drums of waste along Battle Creek and to cover the entire site with at least two feet of clean soil. Trees and other vegetation were planted to help prevent erosion Pig’s Eye Lake / Page 3

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ST. PAUL

Scavenger Hunt

Tim Spitzack Editor

June 2020

ith so many events cancelled or postponed during the pandemic, one must get creative to find ways to enjoy summer this year. Parks and outdoor pursuits are always good options but there are other ways to explore the city and learn more about its cultural heritage, while still following social distance protocol. This St. Paul Scavenger Hunt allows you to do just that. In creating it, we asked

Scavenger hunt / Page 5

A rose by any other name... Amy Johnson Staff Writer

s you tour the city using our St. Paul Scavenger Hunt—featured in this issue—you should also be on the lookout for clues that point to St. Paul’s earliest name: Pig’s Eye. Officially, the name of the city is credited to Father Lucien Galtier, a French missionary who arrived in 1841 and established a log cabin chapel on the bluff above the Mississippi River. His congregation flourished and eventually built the Cathedral of St. Paul. In those days, however, the settlement was known by the far less attractive moniker, Pig’s Eye. As the fledging town grew, Galtier led the charge to rename it after his favorite saint, the Apostle Paul. While some say the name Pig’s Eye stems from the popular 19th century expression, “In a pig’s eye,” which means to be incredulous, the most widely accepted theory is that it referred to Pierre Parrant, the area’s first European settler and a notorious bootlegger. He had only one functioning eye, and his blind eye reportedly had a white circle around the pupil, making it resemble a pig’s eye. Parrant was born in 1777 near Sault Sainte Marie, Mich., and for much of his life worked as a fur trapper. Little is known about his childhood but he developed quite a reputation for himself as an adult, becoming a scoundrel who had repeated run-ins with the law. In 1838, he was kicked out of the Fort Snelling area for selling

Pig’s Eye / Page 3

Spirited downtown centenarian still inspires others Tara Guy Contributor

Carol Robertson

hen her name blazed in lights at CHS Field, Carol Robertson probably suspected it was going to be a special day. The lifelong St. Paul resident turned 105 on April 25 and was showered with displays of love and affection throughout the day— properly socially-distanced, of course. Neighbor and

longtime friend Crystal Meriwether organized festivities at the Airye Condominiums, where Robertson lives on the 41st floor, and where the condo board proclaimed it “Carol Robertson Day.” There was a merry cacophony of banging pots and pans in the parking lot below, balloon bouquets, a birthday-song-serenade by her neighbors singing from the 26th through 45th floor-stairwells, a Zoom

party with her family, and more than 100 birthday cards. “Carol Robertson is the most remarkable woman I know,” said Meriwether. “Everyone should be as fortunate as those of us who have benefitted from her wisdom and learned from her experiences. She’s the consummate role model, with a wry sense of humor to make it all fun.” Robertson’s cityscape view

looks down on 6th Street, where her father August owned and operated Biebighauser Electric Company 100 years ago. Her bird’s eye view of the city is emblematic of her perspective on more than a century of American life. When she was born in 1915, Woodrow Wilson was president, World War I was just distant rolling thunder, and Babe Ruth was about to hit his first home run. “I was born in St. Paul but

raised out in the country on Keller Lake,” said Robertson in a recent interview. “I went to a two-room schoolhouse there called Edgerton School, where I was the only girl.” She describes her childhood as idyllic, with she and her brother raised by loving parents. After graduating from Johnson High School, Carol Robertson / Page 2

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Carol Robertson from page 1

Robertson studied sociology at Hamline University for several years but quit before finishing her degree. Asked if she left college to marry, Robertson laughed and emphatically said no. “When the first fellow asked me to marry him I all but ran home and hid under the bed,” she said. “I was having far too much fun to tie myself down.” Robertson left college to work for St. Paul Fire and Marine, where she met her future husband Edward “Robbie” Robertson, an up-and-coming insurance agent. The couple was wed before Edward enlisted in the Army following the attack on Pearl Harbor. He served in a medical unit attached to the Chinese Army. “We didn’t know it when he left but I was pregnant,” said Robertson. “Our son was born while Robbie was overseas.” She views Pearl Harbor as the most significant historical event in her life, and the birth of her son as her most important personal event. When asked to name her favorite decade, she mused, “It might have been the ’30’s. Those were carefree, happygo-lucky days. We were in our 20s. We had come through the worst of the Depression. We were working and had plenty of money. The war was still years away and life was good.” She considers the computer and related technology to be the most revolutionary changes in her lifetime, particularly regarding personal communications. “I’m still astonished,” said

Robertson, who owns a new Apple computer. “When I was young, we had six families sharing a party-line telephone. Today, I press a button and talk face-to-face with my son in Indiana.” When asked if life was simpler back then, she laughed and asked, “Have you ever seen a wringerwasher, or a carpet-beater?” What’s the secret to her longevity? “Well, I always ate well, never took drugs and stayed active as long as I could, walking two to three miles as often as possible,” she said. Her niece, Lynn Rusch, added with a chuckle, “A glass or two of red wine in the evening doesn’t hurt either.” Robertson readily agreed. Her friends still come to share a glass of wine some evenings, although now they sit in the hallway while she remains in her living room. Photos shared by family and friends bear testament to Robertson’s rich and interesting life. One shows her in the Oval Office with President Obama. “My grandson worked for the White House for a time,” she said. “Everyone who worked for President Barack Obama was allowed a family picture with him. Now there was a president of grace and dignity.” Robertson has strong liberal views and is deeply concerned about recent political trends in America. Her advice to young people is, “Vote! Know who you are voting for, and what they stand for.” That that goes double for young women, whom she exhorts to stay

vigilant about their rights. Born five years before American women won the right to vote, Robertson is a lifelong feminist and liberal activist, advocating for peace, science and human rights, with an emphasis on women’s health. She hasn’t just talked the talk, though, she has literally walked the walk. A veteran protester, she’s rallied for the ERA, and walked in the Minnesota’s Women’s March and March for Science at the State Capitol. Her activism extended beyond Minnesota. In 2004 Robertson celebrated her 89th birthday by marching with her niece Lynn at the March for Women’s Lives in Washington, D.C. Robertson served as executive director of St. Paul’s Planned Parenthood Chapter from 1966-1968 and remained on its Board through the 1970s. “Among my many lovely birthday cards, there were several donations in my name to Planned Parenthood…some nice big ones,” said Robertson, who is still an active promoter and advocate for the group. “Carol’s generosity and dedication to improving women’s lives has changed our entire region,” said Sarah Stoesz, president and CEO of Planned Parenthood North Central States. “Carol is an incredible visionary and trailblazer who continues to inspire us to this day. Women’s health care in our region has come a long way because of her work, and countless women through many generations have benefited by her efforts. We’re all deeply grateful to her.” Robertson, a lifelong volunteer, was also recently honored by the City of St.

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The City of St. Paul planted a tree on 6th Street in her honor.

Asked if she left college to marry, Robertson laughed and emphatically said no. ‘When the first fellow asked me to marry him I all but ran home and hid under the bed,’ she said. ‘I was having far too much fun to tie myself down.’ Paul. A resolution offered by Ward 2 Councilperson Rebecca Noecker—and adopted unanimously by the City Council on May 6—read, in part: “Carol has been a dedicated volunteer, giving her time teaching English to Somali families, serving as a probation officer at the Bremer House for boys, serving on the board of the Children’s Service, and serving as a docent for

the M Museum at its many locations over the years in St. Paul.…The City of St. Paul honors Carol Robertson for her life of service and gratefully thanks her for the many ways she has made our city richer and more just.” A tree was planted on 6th Street in her honor. Robertson gratefully acknowledged how blessed she is to have a wide circle of devoted friends and fam-

ily, then in self-deprecating humor, said, “If you want to be well-liked, just live a long time….Apparently there’s something very intriguing about old age.” In the end, perhaps the most apt summation of Robertson’s life was offered by Stoesz of Planned Parenthood: “She sets a high bar for me and so many others, and I know she’s not done yet.”

The Downtown St. Paul Voice is published monthly and delivered to every apartment, condominium and skyway drop in St. Paul’s historic urban village, as well as other locations throughout downtown St. Paul. Publisher & Editor: Tim Spitzack Copy Editor: Leslie Martin Staff Writers: John E. Ahlstrom, Amy Johnson

Contributors: Roger Fuller, Tara Guy Ginny Contreras Sawyer Nigel Parry Delivery: Independent Delivery Service

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Pig’s Eye from page 1

moonshine to Native Americans, settlers and soldiers alike. In his 60s at the time, he moved his illegal liquor business to nearby Fountain Cave, which had an ample supply of running water that he used in his still. There he created a tavern called Pig’s Eye Pandemonium. It was

Sketch courtesy of Minnesota Historical Society

Pierre “Pig’s Eye” Parrant popular with the local community, and a small village

grew around it. The place was colloquially known as Pig’s Eye Landing among steamboat pilots, who delivered mail there that was addressed simply to “Pig’s Eye.” The name stuck until the arrival of Father Galtier. As soon as he learned of Parrant’s nefarious reputation, Galtier purposely built a chapel on a nearby bluff and named it after the famed saint. Legend says Galtier recited these words during the chapel’s dedication: “Pig’s Eye, converted thou shalt

{ THE FULLER FILES } Positive poetry Public Art St. Paul is encouraging residents to use chalk to write poetry in any language on city sidewalks, then post the messages on Instagram @publicartstpaul. The project is inspired by the organization’s Sidewalk Poetry program, an ongoing project that stamps poems by St. Paul poets into city sidewalks. Since 2008 more than 1,000 poems have been placed throughout the city.

MN Book Award winners Friends of the St. Paul Public Library presented the winners of the 2020 Minnesota Book Awards on April 28 in a virtual awards ceremony. Winners are: Children’s Literature, “A Map Into the World” by Kao Kalia Yang, illustrated by Seo Kim; General Nonfiction, “The Heartbeat of Wounded Knee: Native America from 1890 to the Present” by David Treuer; Genre Fiction, “Black Leopard, Red Wolf ” by Marlon James; Memoir & Creative Nonfiction, “All the Wild Hungers,” by Karen Babine; Middle

by Roger Fuller

Grade Literature, “The Line Tender,” by Kate Allen; Minnesota Nonfiction, “Slavery’s Reach: Southern Slaveholders in the North Star State,” by Christopher P. Lehman; Novel & Short Story, “Evidence of V: A Novel in Fragments, Facts, and Fictions,” by Sheila O’Connor; Poetry, “Bodega,” by Su Hwang; Young Adult Literature, “Catfishing on CatNet,” by Naomi Kritzer. James Lenfestey received the Kay Sexton Award, which recognizes an individual or organization for longstanding dedication and outstanding work in fostering books, reading and literary activity in Minnesota.

events, St. Paul Civic Symphony concerts and more at www.landmarkcenter.org. St. Paul Downtown Alliance offers the chance to win gift certificates by playing small business bingo at www.stpauldowntownalliance.org, and has a listing of downtown restaurants that offer curbside pick-up and delivery.

Entertainment goes virtual

Skyway hours have been reduced from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. during the pandemic. Skyways normally close at midnight. A few skyway bridges were initially closed by building owners for safety reasons but the St. Paul City Council has said all bridges must remain open.

Several organizations are offering new entertainment options during the COVID-19 pandemic. Union Depot has a 10-page book featuring puzzles, word finds, coloring pages and facts about Union Depot. Download it at www.uniondepot.org/activitybook. Landmark Center offers presentations of past theater

Pothole report St. Paul Public Works is urging motorists to report particularly bad potholes in city streets so they can be repaired. To make a report, call 651-269-9700.

Skyway hours

CRC relocates CapitolRiver Council/ District 17 is moving to the seventh floor of the

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be, like Saul; Arise, and be, henceforth, Saint Paul!” Galtier’s words evidently had persuasive power because the townsfolk adopted the new name. Parrant eventually set up another tavern in what is now Lowertown but was evicted from that site as well. Three years later he lost his claim to land he tried to homestead and was forced to evacuate. Some accounts say he retreated to Michigan and died along the way. Others state he ventured to Winni-

peg, Manitoba, Canada and lived there as a squatter until his death. Parrant’s legacy lives on in the myriad bars and restaurants that pay tribute to him. For instance, the Spot Bar at 859 Randolph Ave. has a sign that displays his likeness. The former Pig’s Eye Brewing Company, established in 2002 and in business for about a decade, brewed three beers named after Parrant: Pig’s Eye Pilsner, Pig’s Eye Lean Light

and Pig’s Eye Ice. In addition, a city park is named in his honor. Pig’s Eye Regional Park at 81 Fish Hatchery Rd. is St. Paul’s largest park in terms of landmass. It offers hiking, fishing, bird watching and archery, as well as the 500-acre Pig’s Eye Lake. Fountain Cave is no longer accessible. Its entrance was buried in 1960 by the construction of Shepard Road. A historical marker can be found at 437 Shepard Rd.

370 Osborn Building, near Fifth and Wabasha. The organization will pay $627 a month for a 277-squarefoot office with access to meeting rooms. It left the 900-square-foot space at 181 E. Fifth St. after the landlord raised the rent $200, to $930 a month.

The American Association League does not plan to follow Major League Baseball’s tentative plan to play

to empty stadiums. MLB would televise games, which AAL typically does not.

Saints hope to play soon The St. Paul Saints are hoping to play their first game at CHS Field sometime in July but will likely play to much smaller crowds, perhaps 25 percent of stadium capacity because of social distancing.

Pig’s Eye Lake from page 1

and reduce contaminants from reaching the groundwater. The $12.6 million project is scheduled to begin this fall and be completed in 2022. The Corps will cover $8.4 million of the cost and Ramsey County will provide the remainder. Local conservation group Friends of the Mississippi River supports the effort.

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A salute to the class of 2020 Tim Spitzack Editor

n years past, one might quickly identify the home of a high school senior by the vast amount of toilet paper fluttering in the trees following a moonless night in May. That’s not likely to happen this year because, of course, no one these days would dare waste that precious commodity. What is noticed across the city are yard signs emblazoned with school colors and the numbers of a year that neither the graduate—nor the rest of us—will ever forget: 2020. Twos and zeros are significant for today’s graduates, many of whom were born in 2002. Since their birth, our country has endured a staggering number of challenges: a stock market crash, the War on Terror, Hurricane Katrina and other natural disasters, the burst of the housing bubble, the

Great Recession, and now COVID-19. Ideally, age 18 is a time of optimism and new beginnings. A time when apron strings are cut and budding youth begin to sprout into adulthood. Many at that age are brash and bold and brimming with confidence. Others are timid and shy, uncertain of what their future holds. Nonetheless, each is busy making plans to enter college or the workforce. It will mean leaving home and letting go. It will mean learning how to live with others. Today’s seniors have regrettably lost out on many of the traditional festivities that graduates have long enjoyed. They didn’t get gussied up for prom or spend a small fortune on a nice meal and clothing they’ll never again wear. They didn’t wander the halls collecting scribbly signatures and sentiments—some meaningful, some meaningless—in their yearbook, or glamour shots

of their classmates. The band didn’t perform its last concert or the choir its last song. Athletes who dreamed of

shattering a school record or winning a state title did not get that chance. The golden days of being surrounded

by friends and peers were ripped from their unknowing clutch, giving them no closure to one of the most significant eras of their life. To top it off, they won’t take that slow walk across a stage and have their tassel turned in front of an auditorium packed with proud parents and siblings. Most graduations these days will be virtual, which may be apropos for these Gen Z grads who cut their teeth on Smartphones and found ways to socially connect while apart long before a novel virus mandated it. Their senior year ended with a muffled thud rather than a boisterous bang. Yet maybe they’re the lucky ones because they will more quickly understand that life is not fair. Never has been. Never will be. The faster one realizes that, the sooner one can get on with the business of living. Graduates, the door to your future is wide open,

even though it may be difficult to see too far down the fuzzy road that lies before you. However, your education is not yet complete. With each passing year you’ll continue to be tested and learn new lessons. You’ll find success and you’ll make mistakes. The wise will learn from both. Some of you will go on to do great things and develop creative ways to improve society. Some will provide the brawn that makes those innovations possible, which is as it should be. This world needs architects and artists; doctors and day laborers. It needs people to pitch in and use their skills accordingly. Each generation has its own challenges, and each must carry the torch. It’s now being passed to you. Take hold of it and run like the wind. Above all, enjoy the journey and live in the moment, which is something I suspect you’ve already learned to do quite well.

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A rts & Culture

Scavenger hunt from page 1

the executive directors of the 17 district councils in the city to name one landmark that defines their neighborhood, or one they consider to be a hidden gem. Our thanks to the directors for helping make this guide possible. The tour will take you through St. Paul’s most charming areas and introduce you to the city’s rich and colorful history. Along the way you’ll discover new restaurants, quaint retail shops and parkland that you surely will want to visit again. The hunt is on. Enjoy!

Your community news and information source but a few remain, including one that celebrates Latino heritage. Charlie “Carlitos” Brown is located near Boca Chica Taco House, 407 S. Wabasha St. About one-third of the West Side’s residents are of Latino descent, and the neighborhood is home to St. Paul’s annual Cinco de Mayo celebration. Schulz, who was born in Minneapolis and raised in St. Paul, is widely regarded as one of the most influential cartoonists of all time.

District 4

Swede Hollow Henge

The Swede Hollow neighborhood was once home to many Swedish immigrants, who began settling there in the 1860s and built shanty-style houses with no city sewer or water

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Edward Jones celebrates the Class of 2020 graduates. John K Murphy, AAMS®, CRPC®

665 Greenbrier St.

At the north end of Swede Hollow park is Swede Hollow Henge, a circular arrangement of stones that mildly resembles the famous Stonehenge prehistoric monument near Wiltshire, England. The display was created by artist Christine Baeumler in 1997 as part of a prairie restoration project. The stones are old granite curbstones from past St. Paul Public Works street projects and are arranged in a way that invites people to gather and share conversation.

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District 1

Burns Ave. Overlook 1450 Burns Ave.

Nature lovers and transportation enthusiasts alike will enjoy this blufftop perch near the intersection of Burns Avenue and Hwy 61 (look for the blue Scenic Overlook sign announcing the entrance). Built in 1950 and restored in 2009, the overlook offers spectacular views of the Mississippi River Valley and the barges, trains, automobiles and aircraft that move through it. Consider visiting at dawn or dusk, when the sun paints pictures in the sky and the city lights below sparkle like diamonds. The area includes green space suitable for an intimate picnic, and ample parking.

Creating a secure future has never been more important! District 2 Ames Lake

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As a wave of urban growth enveloped the nation after World War II, ambitious developers eyed open spaces and wetlands merely as plots suitable for housing and commercial developments, and the native landscape took a hit. Such was the case with Ames Lake, a former wetland that was filled in around 1950 to make way for the Phalen Shopping Center. That project, however, did not turn out well for the developer because of ongoing issues with groundwater. Less than 50 years later the shopping center was in bad shape and ripe for change. In 1999, the community stepped in and initiated a plan to demolish the shopping center and reclaim the wetland. Today, the site is a natural sanctuary amidst the urban landscape. One highlight is the wooden, curved walking pier jutting into the lake. Standing on the boardwalk one can see the diverse marshland habitat and hear the trill of songbirds. The lake is a short distance to the Bruce Vento Regional Trail and Phalen Regional Park.

District 3

“Carlitos” Brown 407 S. Wabasha St.

In the early 2000s, hundreds of artistic statues were made of Charles Schulz’s “Peanuts” comic strip characters and placed all around St. Paul. Most are gone now

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This document is available in alternative formats to individuals with disabilities by contacting the Director of Access & Disability Resources at 651.846.1547 or AccessResources@saintpaul.edu. Saint Paul College is an Equal Opportunity employer and educator and a member of Minnesota State.

Downtown St. Paul Voice - June 2020 - Page 5

A rts & Culture

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service. The last of these houses were razed by the City in 1956, and the area became parkland in 1973. This is the most difficult location on the tour to reach. It requires navigating more than 150 stairs from the parking lot on Greenbrier Street. Alternatively, it can be reached by walking approximately one-quarter mile southbound along the Bruce Vento Regional Trail from the trailhead at Eastside Heritage Park, 735 Phalen Blvd.

District 5

China Friendship Garden

catching scrappy bluegills and crappies. Take a Kid Fishing weekend in Minnesota is June 5-7. Residents age 16 and older may fish for free this weekend if accompanied by a youth age 15 or younger. Hmong Heritage Wall, and the colorful and ornate Xiang Jiang Pavilion. Plans call for an east entrance and donor wall, a stone garden, a Hmong cultural plaza, a lakeside pavilion with a waterside patio and veranda, and an arched bridge.

District 6

Phalen Regional Park 1600 Phalen Dr.

Marydale Park

The St. Paul-Changsha China Friendship Garden of Whispering Willows and Flowing Waters at Phalen Regional Park celebrates the sister-city relationship between St. Paul and Changsha, which began in 1988. St. Paul has the largest Hmong population in the United States, and many claim Changsha (capital of Hunan Province) as their ancestral home. The garden was created to promote an understanding of China and its cultural heritage, recognize contributions of Chinese Americans in the Twin Cities, and promote international trade and tourism between China and Minnesota. It’s in a tranquil setting near the shore of Lake Phalen and is still being developed. It features a west entrance archway,

542 Maryland Ave. W.

Marydale Park is a prime example of what can happen when the community works together for the common good. In 1974, North End residents banded together to transform a longtime chemical- and waste-disposal site into a city park. They worked with the City of St. Paul, which had bought the land in 1969. Today’s residents are now reaping the benefits. The greenspace alongside Loeb Lake offers many recreational amenities, including a fishing pier on the eastern shore. The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources has designated the lake as a children’s fishing pond. It is the perfect place to bait a hook with your kids or grandkids and try your luck at

District 7

Victoria Theater Arts Center 825 University Ave.

“The Show” will go on— eventually—at the Victoria Theater. The nonprofit Victoria Theatre Arts Center purchased the building in 2014 and is slowly transforming it into an arts and community center. While the building would win no beauty contests in its current state, it’s possible to envision a brighter future. The nonprofit plans to provide intergenerational opportunities for all ages and backgrounds, foster mentorships, and promote healing through restorative justice efforts.

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The theater opened in 1915, offering movies and live performances. Within 10 years it had become the Victoria Café nightclub, and later Casa Grande. During Prohibition, the nightclub was raided at least twice by federal agents. The 1927 recording “Moonshiners Dance: Part One” was recorded there by Frank Cloutier and the Victoria Café Orchestra. The song is featured in the 84-track “Anthology of American Folk Music” and is the only one not recorded in the American South or Chicago, according to Historic St. Paul. Check out the fascinating Pullman Porter exhibit next door for a glimpse at the contributions African Americans made to railroads and early Civil Rights efforts.

District 8

Rondo Plaza

820 Old Rondo Ave.

One of the most striking elements of the plaza is the collection of 18 large chimes that, when struck, are said to sing the songs of the famed Rondo neighborhood’s predominantly African American community. Rondo was destroyed in the 1950s and ’60s during construction of Interstate-94. Each chime commemorates one of the 18 north-south streets of Rondo, and each hammer features the inscription of a notable family or resident of the old neighborhood. The plaza, which opened in July 2018, features an exhibit wall with displays that celebrate the former Rondo community, as well as the multi-ethnic makeup of today’s nearby neighborhoods. The surrounding park has a lighted beacon that can be seen by drivers on I-94, giving testament that the spirit of the neighborhood lives on.

District 9

Schmidt Brewery 882 W. Seventh St., between Jefferson and Toronto

This historic site dates to 1855 when Christopher Stahlmann opened Cave Brewery. Jacob Schmidt bought the property in 1900 and went on to become the largest brewer in Minnesota and the seventh largest in the country. Minnesota Brewing Co. was the last of six producers to occupy the brewery before closing in 2002. In 2012, local developer Dominium purchased it and transformed it into the Schmidt Artist Lofts, and the Rathskeller building and Keg and Case Market, which both feature several independent businesses. “The Drink” aquifer well is also there. It draws from the largest and deepest aquifer in Minnesota, the same one used for generations by the brewing companies. It’s as deep as 1,500 feet and is said to have some of the purest naturally filtered water in the Midwest. Bring your 1- to 5-gallon container to take home some of this natural refreshment for a nominal fee.

largest donor, Gerard L. Cafesjian, an executive with West Publishing Company, reportedly said: “I believe something special happens on a merry-go-round. The music, the magic and the movement combine to create a one-of-a-kind experience. When we preserve the carousel, we also preserve that joy and hope—that happiness—for the entire community, for years to come.” The carousel, which is temporarily closed, is typically open six days a week May through Labor Day, and weekends through October. Cost is $3 for ages 1-89, with free days offered once a month May through September. For more information, visit www.ourfaircarousel.org.

District 10

District 11

Cafesjian’s Carousel

Como Park Zoo and Conservatory 1225 Estabrook Dr.

For more than 75 years these painted ponies loped a circular track at the Minnesota State Fairgrounds. In 1988 it appeared they were headed for pasture. After unsuccessfully finding a buyer, the carousel’s owner loaded 20 of the horses and a chariot aboard a truck bound for auction in New York. After hearing the news, a St. Paul couple stepped in to save the day. Peter Boehm and Nancy Peterson quickly organized a nonprofit and raised funds to save the St. Paul treasure. The

Hamline Park

1564 Lafond Ave.

The park’s historic 2-story limestone playground shelter dates to 1938. It was designed by Clarence Wiginton, the country’s first African American municipal architect, who also designed several other notable structures in St. Paul, including the Harriet Island Pavilion (which now bears his name), the Highland Park Water Tower, Como Park Elementary School and the administration building at St. continued on page 8

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A rts & Culture

Your community news and information source avenues. Milton Square is owned by Mary Ann Milton, one of the first female realtors in the city. Attracted to its Old World European charm, she purchased the complex in 1957. Today, the century-old building includes nine residential flats and nearly a dozen tenants, including boutiques, cafes and Winding Trail Books, an independent bookstore that opened in July 2019. Nearby is the equally historic and charming St. Anthony Park Branch Library, 2245 Como Ave. This repository of knowledge is a branch of the St. Paul Public Library and is on the National Register of Historic Places. It was built in 1917 with money donated by philanthropist Andrew Carnegie.

Paul’s downtown airport, Holman Field. The park also has a court for futsal—a variant of soccer played on a hard surface with a smaller, harder, low-bounce ball—and may be a training ground for budding soccer players dreaming of playing professionally at nearby Allianz Field.

District 13

Allianz Stadium 400 Snelling Ave. N.

District 12

Milton Square 2262 Como Ave.

One of St. Paul’s most charming commercial districts is nestled among the towering trees near Como and Carter

Sure, this one is hard to miss if you ever travel I-94 but now is the time to take a closer look at the home of Minnesota United FC of Major League Soccer. The 19,400-seat stadium opened in April 2019. Take a photo in front of the UNITED sculpture then enjoy a quiet stroll around the complex without having to dodge enthusiastic fans eager to get inside. Catch a glimpse of the field by peeking in the glass doors at the northeast entrance near the ticket booth. Commercial redevelopment is underway nearby, and more is to come. The St. Paul Port Authority is applying for grants to clean the soil on land near the stadium to make way for

a mixed-use development with housing, retail and office space, and a parking garage. The project is scheduled to begin in October.

District 14

Stonebridge Oval 2250 W. Stanford Ct.

The unassuming 15-foot traffic median filled with grass and pine trees at the intersection of Stanford Court and Woodlawn Avenue belies its former glory. The site was once part of Stonebridge, the decadent estate of Oliver Crosby, co-founder of American Hoist and Derrick. He bought nearly 40 acres in 1907 and spent years building a 20,000-square-foot, 24-room mansion. He spared no expense on the grounds itself, which included two artificial lakes, waterfalls and a large sunken garden. Crosby and his wife Elizabeth took occupancy in 1916 but his time there was short; he died six years later. By 1944, the family could no longer afford the upkeep or taxes and forfeited the property to the State of Minnesota. The State considered using it for the governor’s residence but decided against it, and the mansion was demolished in 1953. The stone bridge after which the estate was named can still be seen on private property of 280 Mississippi River Blvd., visible from the public trail.

District 15

Highland Water Tower

Intersection of Snelling Avenue and Ford Parkway

While this 127-foot tower

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A rts & Culture

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no longer holds water, it does hold a lot of history. Dating to 1928, it was designed by architect Clarence Wigington, who designed more than 90 other structures—including five St. Paul Winter Carnival ice palaces—while working for the City of St. Paul. The stately tower features Kasota and Bedford stone and once held up to 200,000 gallons. The observation deck, which offers panoramic views of the Mississippi River Valley, is open to the public one weekend in July and one in October. Visit www.stpaul.gov (search Highland Tower) for more details. Nearby are two modern water towers that pale in comparison aesthetically.

Beaux Arts style. Construction was completed in 1912 on the 14,706-square-foot stone and brick mansion, which featured 20 rooms, nine fireplaces, nine bedrooms, 10 bathrooms and two porches. In 1965, Irvine’s two youngest daughters, Clotilde and Olivia, donated the home to the State of Minnesota, and the State Legislature quickly designated it as the State Ceremonial Building and governor’s residence. The house was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 1974. Numerous political dignitaries have visited the home over the years, as have many famous actors, including Jack Nicholson, Sean Penn and those “Grumpy Old Men,” Jack Lemmon and Walter Matthau.

building opened in 1890 and was designed by renowned architects Cass Gilbert and James Knox Taylor. The buildings were connected in the 1940s and are now on the National Register of Historic Places. Today, the upper levels feature apartments, and the skyway level has retail establishments. The ground level has the Minnesota Museum of American Art, which bounced around St. Paul for more than 90 years before finally finding its permanent home here. The M features an extensive collection of more than 5,000 pieces that define the American experience from the 19th century to the present. You can take a virtual tour at https://mmaa. org. Admission is free, although the museum is temporarily closed because of the pandemic.

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District 16

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350 Robert St. N.

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C ommunity

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Postscript

Peppermint ice cream helps “I love seeing all the people in the park,” my sister told me on the phone the other night. “I can tell who is together because they are walking in little clumps!” I love that idea: little satellites orbiting the park—usually with a dog—keeping a safe distance from the other orbiting clumps nearby. My sister is in a clump consisting of herself, her husband, their two children, a dog and a cat. (I’m not sure if the cat considers himself part of the clump or not. Possibly not.) The kids are doing their homework in record time, sports are discontinued but music lessons continue. They are playing a lot of ping-pong and canasta. My cousin, Dane, is in a clump of one so I was kind

Carrie Classon CarrieClasson.com

of worried about him and called him up. He seemed to be doing okay, all things considered. He’s laid off but getting a lot of house projects done. I caught him when he was out walking. “I’m on my annual walk,” he told me. “Annual?” “No, I meant daily. I’ve been walking every day.” I was prepared to believe it

was annual as I don’t generally think of Dane as being big on exercise. But I’m glad to hear he’s taking care of himself. I think that’s what we all need to do, as best as we can. I’m in a clump of three these days—it’s just me, my husband Peter, and my anxiety. It wouldn’t be crowded with just Peter and me but it’s true what they say: three’s a crowd. I get free-floating anxiety, and these times seem to promote it. Peter is amazingly patient with me, although he gets anxious when I get anxious, and the atmosphere becomes a little electric in the house. That’s usually when I go for a walk. A walk helps but peppermint ice cream is what really works wonders. My consumption of peppermint ice cream has shot through the roof. In the past, Peter has accused me of being an ice cream snob. I scrutinize the ingredient list. I try to buy ice cream with fewer thickeners and additives, and

more natural ingredients. But none of this matters if it’s peppermint ice cream. There are no rules for peppermint ice cream. Everyone knows that. I don’t even read the ingredient list because, what do I care? It’s peppermint ice cream! It’s bright pink and has little pieces of peppermint candy right in it. No matter how bad the news of the day might be, a little peppermint ice cream is certain to make things better. No matter how anxious I might get, I can always eat peppermint ice cream. Two days ago, we went to the grocery store. We are trying to limit our trips and hoped to buy enough for three weeks. We donned our masks, packed the hand sanitizer, and headed out. I bought all the produce, Peter bought dairy and dry goods, and we reconvened in the parking lot, feeling like we had just completed a major expedition. Back at home, I was rinsing off the huge supply of

fruit and vegetables while Peter unloaded his bags. That’s when I noticed it. “You only bought one carton of peppermint ice cream?” “Well, yeah, but we have one in the freezer.” “That one is almost gone.” “Oh. How much pepper-

mint ice cream do you think you’ll need?” This was a difficult question to answer. How much peppermint ice cream will I need? I’m hoping not too much more. Till next time.

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fied eight must ress

A rts Displaced artists finally feel secure in their new digs

Your community news and information source

Nigel Parry Contributor

ncertainty, displacement and questions of affordability have dogged the Lowertown artist community for most of the last decade, primarily the result of an explosion of new residential development. Artists Barbara Evan, Tom McGregor and CeCeile Hartleib each were negatively affected yet have found a new home to continue to practice their craft. Two of the three formerly had studios in the JAX Building in Lowertown, which offered affordable studio space for nearly 40 years before the building was purchased in February 2016 and converted into market-rate apartments, part of the mid-2010s “gold rush” in the historic artists’ neighborhood. Anxiety among the JAX tenants was high as they approached the move-out deadline that spring. Roughly 80 individual artists and members of smaller artist collectives who also used the building were forced to scramble to find affordable studio space in a downtown area where rents had skyrocketed. Ten members of the JAX found a home in the basement of the nearby Northern Warehouse and dubbed themselves “Lowertown Underground Artists.” Others hopped the river and moved to the ACVR Warehouse, located at 106 Water St. W., on the edge of Harriet Island Regional Park. It was affordable, close to downtown and already had a few resident artists there who had relocated from the JAX years before the sale. Plein air, portrait and still life painter CeCeile Hartleib, along with

her husband Terry Kayser, a pastel artist, were some of the early JAX pioneers, moving into the ACVR Warehouse in 2007 and organizing the Art Crawl at the building. The ACVR (American Crane-Victor Reim) Warehouse is the historic Farwell, Ozmun, Kirk & Co. Warehouse No. 2, the sister to the look-alike Farwell, Ozmun, Kirk & Co. classic Renaissance-style building that today is the Tilsner Artists Cooperative at 300 Broadway St. The ACVR Warehouse acquired its new name after being purchased in 1979 by one-time American Crane company owner Bert Sandberg and his neighbor Victor. Sandberg and family were fixtures in the Twin Cities and long-time supporters of the arts community, offering affordable workspaces to artists and craftsmen in the gigantic Water Street warehouse. After Bert passed away in 2003, his daughter Leslie and son Nels took over management of the building. As the siblings approached retirement age, they announced to their tenants in fall of 2018—just two short years after the JAX sale—that they were entertaining offers from two new ownership groups that were looking to buy the building and use it primarily for storage. They told tenants that the new investors expressed a desire to keep artists in the building, but the details were vague. As New Year’s Day 2019 approached, it remained unclear how the parallel histories of two 40year artists’ refuges across the river from each other would turn out. “Buhl Investors tried to reassure us—but with no specifics, we didn’t believe— we’d be allowed to stay,” said

abstract painter Barbara Evan, who was then still skittish from her experience at the JAX, and two previous gentrification experiences. The new owners told ACVR artists they would be given a 90-day notice if there was a change to the status quo. Fearful that timeframe was insufficient to successfully relocate, many began looking for new studios and holding moving sales. Ultimately, 11 moved out. Barbara Evan and 11 others had long scheduled a moving sale for Feb. 21 but had good reason for second thoughts around the time of the event. In an email in late February from the management company, things finally began to solidify at ACVR and Buhl delivered the good news to the artists, along with a 3-year lease that included rent increases, ranging from about one-third for more recent tenants to double for some long term tenants who had previously enjoyed rent stability. Nonetheless, the studios remained affordable compared to the market-rate alternatives. “Most of us decided to stay when we found that even though the rents would be higher, it wouldn’t be prohibitive or as high as some of the places we had looked at—some without any windows, which is not good for artists who need natural light to work,” said Hartleib. Evan added, “We hadn’t known who we would be dealing with but when the contract came there was someone’s name buried in it so I looked him up, contacted him and found that he was very pleasant to deal with, letting us know that he would work something out and get back to us. His manager was also supportive

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of artists so there may have been some sympathy on both of their parts. I don’t know. There may have been other factors but we had been terrified of having to leave up to that point. We had been assuming that we would be kicked out.” Hartleib, now able to chuckle at the memory of it, said, “It seemed from what I heard that they thought the artists were kind of cool. The whole idea of having the St. Paul Art Crawl there was kind of cool and they wanted to keep that.” An article in the St. Paul Pioneer Press that February highlighting the plight of the artists may have helped their cause, although Evan now concludes it was likely much ado about nothing. “It was kind of embarrassing in a way,” said Evan. “I told Fred (the reporter) that I had built this thing up as

a drastic thing and then his story kind of went a bit flat (because the artists weren’t displaced).” Plein air painter and West Side resident Tom McGregor moved to the ACVR warehouse from the Northwestern building in Lowertown following news of an expected rent increase. Just before moving, he sent an email newsletter to his subscribers to inform them that this would be his last Art Crawl. “I had ten times as many sales as I usually had at the Art Crawl,” McGregor said, laughing, “I felt guilty when I landed on my feet in ACVR.” McGregor occupies a section of ACVR called “Old Town Artists,” inhabited by 15 artists. Each has a 225-square-foot bay to create, and they also share a larger community area that can accommodate 10-

15 painters for different events, such as live modeling and drawing classes. Despite the optimism today, it wasn’t all one big happy ending at ACVR. In its heyday, 50 artists and craftspeople occupied space in the Warehouse. Today, just 30 remain. “We are grateful to have decent studio space that isn’t as expensive as a lot of them,” said Evan, “Unfortunately it is practically off the grid in the minds of the general public. The last two Art Crawls both saw under 250 people.” Hartleib agreed. “Yeah, it was pretty darn low.” To explore their art, find Barbara Evan at BarbaraEvanArt.square.site, CeCeile Hartleib at www.CeceileHartleib.com, and Tom McGregor at www.McGregorArt.com.

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Downtown St. Paul Voice - June 2020 - Page 11

Destination: Downtown & Lowertown A Guide to Shopping, Services and Entertainment

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