S.S. Holmpark

second member of the crew. One of its most striking features is the large speed range. The maximum speed is 230 m.p.h., but while spotting for the artillery it can fly at as low a speed as 45 m.p.h. This is due to the fitting of both slots and flaps. The Fairey Battle is used mainly for photographic reconnaissances and for convoying lorries up to the front.

So far this war has produced no outstanding fighter pilots, such as Mannock and Bishop during the last war. However, there is one New Zealand pilot, nick-named Cobber, who has so far shot down two Dornier 17s and one Messerschmitt 109.

The largest dog-fight of the war took place on November 5th, when twenty-seven mixed German fighters were attacked by nine French machines. After a hard-fought battle, the French shot down nine enemy aircraft and came away unscathed. The two types of French aircraft engaged were the Morane 406 and the Curtiss Hawk 75A. The former has a top speed of 310 m.p.h., and its armament consists of two machine guns and one shell-firing cannon. It is a very strong and manoeuvrable machine, much liked by the French pilots. The Curtiss Hawk 75A, purchased from America, has a top speed of 310 m.p.h. and is armed with six machine guns. It is believed that the French version has four machine guns and one cannon.

Finally, one important point should be appended. The war has not started yet. When it does we can be sure that Germany will at least attempt large scale bombing attacks on this country, and our planes will strike back with even greater persistency. But one should not be discouraged, for our defence system is powerful enough to prevent a repetition of Poland.

Motrevlock, Forms V and VI.

The " Holmpark " left this country with a cargo of coal shortly before Christmas for a destination in the Indian Ocean. The voyage was, we gather, without adventure, and a mail arrived from the ship in February, having been posted in January at a bunkering port not far from her destination. We do not know her present whereabouts, but it is unlikely that she will be home for some time. Meanwhile, we send Capt. Richard and his officers and crew our very best wishes for a safe voyage.

In order to avoid all risk of giving useful information, Mr. Martin has sent accounts of places he visited on previous voyages, and a fascinating description of deep sea fishing in the far north. He has made several trips on these trawlers, and his first-hand account is particularly interesting.

THE RIVER AMAZON AND THE CITY OF PARA.

When approaching the coast of Brazil from anywhere between north and east, during daylight, you may see ahead a thin black line stretching at right angles to your course and disappearing over the horizon in both directions. Behind this line there is a distinct change from the deep blue near the ship to a dull greyish yellow. The black line is a fringe of tree trunks, palm leaves and other debris floating at the junction of salt and fresh water. This line is sometimes several hours' journey from the land and may be two hundred miles from it. The enormous volume of water necessary to " push back " the sea water to such an extent comes from the River Amazon. This ship is able to steam up the Amazon for several days—in fact, for 2,232 miles. The average width for the whole distance is three miles, but it is very irregular. I think the narrowest part is just over a mile, but it widens in places to twenty. The banks and surrounding country are covered with dense jungle, and there are no navigation lights. The pilots have to rely on their knowledge of the country—probably the most difficult pilotage in the world.

Above Para the river divides, one part going to the right past Para and the other entering the sea to the west. The island which divides the river at this point is responsible for the two " mouths." One is 100 miles wide and the other 45.

The city of Para is the only important city in that part of South America. Excellent quays are built along the river bank, and five minutes' walk takes one to the central part of the city. From the river an avenue runs inland for about half a mile and the chief hotels, cafes, etc., are found on this thoroughfare. An interesting point about the avenue that all the trees are male fruit trees. That is to say, they do not bear fruit, but are evergreen and provide welcome shade all the year round. As in all countries settled by Latin races, there are elaborate gardens full of fountains and beautifully designed footpaths consisting of small tiles in different colours arranged to form a pattern. On the 43

avenue, in the centre of a garden, there is an opera house worthy of any big European city.

Money is a bit of a trial in Brazil. A millreis is worth about threepence, and a tram-ride to the zoo costs 200 reis. If you change a couple of pounds -into reis you need an attendant to carry your small change. Among the shops are numbers of wood-workers who make all kinds of articles from native woods. These shops cater chiefly for foreign trade and tourists who call at the ports on their way from U.S.A. to Rio and the Argentine. Brazil produces over 2,000 different varieties of woods, some of them highly coloured, and some which have a natural " french polish " and do not need to be polished after sawing or planing. One article of this kind which sells in large numbers is a " dumb waiter." It is the figure of a page boy, standing with a small tray on the palms of his two hands. His hair is black, skin chocolate brown, jacket yellow with red buttons and collar, pants blue with yellow seams. It is a bit gaudy, but it shows to perfection the beautiful woods grown in the country, and these colours are natural, no polish or artificial colouring being used. Beaded articles and all kinds of brassware are made by the Indians.

From the Amazon come an amazing assortment of highly-coloured fish, and these are sent chiefly to New York Aquarium. I bought a full-grown monkey in Para for eighteen pence. He was so small that he could sit on the edge of an empty tea-cup without knocking it over. If I pretended to be eating something he would spring on my shoulder and try with his tiny hands to force my mouth open. I grew so fond of him that I did not have the heart to take him from his native land, and so gave him to our agent's son, who promised to give him a good home.

There is a large but shallow dock at Para which is used by native sailing craft. A walk round this region is well repaid if only to study the many different types of native. Before moving on, I must mention that the electric tramways are owned by an English, company, and were in operation in Para before London had . its first tram.

Extract from a letter from F. Martin, Esq.,

W/O., S.S. Holmpark, January, 1940

DEEP-SEA FISHING.

The term " deep-sea " refers to trawlers which go to Iceland and the far north, and does not include trawlers or other fishing craft which remain near the coasts of Great 44

Britain and the northern islands. The modern deep-sea trawler is a large vessel, compared even with those built ten years ago, and as the owners of these vessels believe in using the best equipment, Great Britain can claim to have the best as well as the largest fishing fleet in the world.

Hull and Grimsby are the home ports for these big trawlers, and ten or twelve of them will leave each tide for one or other of the distant grounds. A similar number arrive, and within a short time the cargoes are sold and have started their train journey to various parts of the country. When leaving port the ships are heavily loaded with coal, and both fishrooms are filled with it, so that they are able to steam to distant grounds and return without having to call at foreign ports for supplies. Cape Kanin is about eighteen hundred miles' journey, and takes about 61 days' steaming, so you see that a trawler fishing on those grounds has to travel a distance of 3,600 miles just to get there and back. In addition to that must be added the distance travelled by the ship while actually fishing.

Trawlers may be seen in Hull every day, loading and unloading, but for the presQnt we are interested in those loading. Any necessary repairs have to be taken in hand, and will be completed at about the same time as the loading of coal, food and crushed ice—the latter being used to preserve the fish until they can be brought to market. At the owner's office nearby a number of men are gathered in the hope of getting a job, and from among this number the mate will select his crew. When signed on they will be told at what time to be on board. All these arrangements must be completed by the time the dock gates are opened, and the vessels leave within a few minutes of each other. Trawler skippers are very familiar with the channel and will proceed to sea in thick fog.

Assuming the skipper has instructions to fish for plaice at Cape Kanin or Cape Tereberski, he will run his ship across the North Sea and along the west coast of Norway till he reaches the West Fjord. Entering this wide, straight sound he runs to its eastern end, where, at the little village of Lodingen, he takes a pilot. From this point the pilot takes the vessel through the narrow passages between the mountains as far as Honingsvaag, at which point the ship is able to proceed the remaining few miles to the open sea without a pilot. This journey from Lodingen to Honingsvaag is full of interest either in summer or winter. In winter it is dark throughout the twenty-four hours, and in bad weather there is nothing to be seen. On a fine winter's night 45

it is very different. On both sides rise towering mountains, covered with snow to the water's edge. Overhead the clear sky is black, and covered with millions of glittering stars. The word " glittering " seems to be the only one to use in connection with the stars in the far north. Each one seems to claim attention, and each one contributes its share of light, until collectively there is sufficient to illuminate the snow-clad mountains, and enables travellers to find their way about without difficulty. When the sky is obscured by heavy storm clouds, the resulting blackness would put a war-time " black-out " to shame. Occasionally the vessel passes a small village tucked away in one of the tiny ledges at the foot of the mountains, and here the lights from the mountains add their share to the fairylike scene. The narrowest passage is at Tromso, the largest town in the north. Tromso is the commercial centre for a very large part of northern Norway, and is famous as the starting point for polar expeditions. Like all Norwegian towns in the north, Tromso is a lonely place during the long winter night, but in summer the whole region is transformed. The days begin to lengthen from about half an hour of light to the full twenty-four hours. Hundreds of holiday-makers flock there and the water is alive with motor-boats, private yachts and cruising liners. The latter go to North Cape especially to let their passengers see the sun shining at midnight. The landscape, too, is changed. Snow still lies deep and spotless on the summits, but the lower slopes are dark green, especially where the pine trees grow. Pine trees are a source of livelihood to the folk who live in the far north. Each year hundreds of young pines are shipped abroad to be used as Christmas trees, and it is fairly certain that a tree bought from one of London's stores came from this region. " Farming " as it is understood in the north is rather different from our idea of it. The farmer usually owns an acre or two of land, and two to six cows, according to the amount of coarse grass available for feeding. In winter these unfortunate creatures live under the owner's house, and eat fish. Fishing is, naturally, the chief industry, and a good deal of salted fish is exported. Laplanders bring furs to Tromso and they can be bought very cheaply. Purchasers of furs need to send them to be properly cured, however, if they are taking them to warmer climates. Whaling is still a profitable undertaking in season.

On arrival at Honingsvaag, particularly in winter, it is easy to imagine that you have discovered a real fairyland. High mountains almost close the small harbour, and when the water has recovered from the disturbance caused

46

by your arrival, the harbour looks like a sheet of ice— perhaps mirror would be a better word, as it is possible to see the reflection of the stars in its still surface. Thousands of lights from the shore add to its beauty, while it needs only the faint sound of accordions to complete the illusion. The townsfolk take no interest in your arrival, unless you are staying or going ashore, but boys always come on board. It is impossible to arrive at any time during the twenty-four hours without seeing some of them. They come in the hope that the skipper will give them a job while fishing, and they might even persuade him to take them for a trip to Hull. Like all Scandinavians, these lads sing, and they will sing song after song just for the pleasure of entertaining you. They all speak four or five languages and are quite at home on English, German, French or Dutch trawlers. Having learnt some of it at school, they quickly learn more from those they meet in ships, but as the bulk of it has been learned from sailors, their version is a bit salty.

Half an hour after leaving Honingsvaag brings the ship to the open sea, to the eastward of North Cape, which can be seen in the distance. There is still a long way to go, but even in this part of the world there is something to see. Trawlers of different nationalities and timber-laden tramps from the White Sea are passed fairly frequently, and there is always the coast-line plainly visible in the Arctic night. Life is not always so peaceful, and very severe blizzards are numerous. A black frost is almost as bad, and is much more severe than the white frosts we see at home. Calm weather is the fore-runner of black frosts, and without any warning a heavy fog seems to rise out of the water. This is no ordinary fog, either, but is like frozen air. Hot water thrown on deck will freeze before it can reach the scuppers. Ice forms everywhere, and in bad frosts it is necessary to stop the ship so that water will not be splashed on the sides, where it would freeze instantly. Even then if there is a slight breeze the wavelets soon cause a layer of ice to form, and in two or three hours it may be three feet thick and has to be chopped away. Fishing is not possible under these conditions, but black frosts seldom last more than a day. Heavy gales also add to the fisherman's burdens. Whether the conditions are good or bad, the ship eventually reaches its ground.

Plaice favour sandy ground, and sea beaches are good localities, but trawling has to be done in deeper water. About thirty-five fathoms is the usual depth, and on arrival 47

at the trawling ground, the trawl is " shot " and towed for about two hours. At the end of that time the skipper will haul and see what fish there are in the trawl. If it is a poor catch a move will be made to another part of the ground or to a new one, but if good the skipper will " shoot away " and tow the. trawl along the bottom for four or six hours before hauling again. Twenty baskets of good sized fish is excellent fishing, and many men are content with much less. In good weather plaice fishing is very pleasant and an easy-going business, as there is plenty of time to clean and stow away the catch and to rest before the next one comes on board. The fishing continues night and day (whether dark or not), and if good hauls are made the ship will remain there till time to leave for home. If not she will leave after about seven days' fishing, and shoot for " rough stuff," which is the fisherman's name for cod and other less valuable fish. Perhaps two days will be spent on this ground and the ship filled. On reaching the market it may be found that the ship will land five hundred kits of plaice and two thousand kits of " rough." Such a landing may bring as much as three thousand pounds and would be described as a good trip.

When cod are plentiful at Bear Island, 1,300 miles to the north, fishing is a much more strenous business. At the first haul the vessel may get six " bags " of cod for one hour's towing. The fishermen " shoot away " again and work frantically to clean and stow the catch. It is not possible to stow such a large quantity before hauling time, and the result is that another five or six " bags " are dumped on top of those still remaining from the last haul. This goes on till the decks are so full that they are " running over " and further fishing is impossible. As soon as there is room, however, over goes the trawl. With fish coming on board at that rate it is impossible for the men to rest, and they frequently work fifty or more hours without sleep or rest, and one hour will cover the time " wasted " in eating food—about ten minutes for a meal. Fish-rooms fill rapidly at this rate, and as soon as the skipper thinks there is enough on deck to complete filling he will set off for home, his decks waist deep in fish, and his men still slaving away to get them below. When the fish are cleared away, trawls are stowed and the ship washed down, and the men may rest—except those who have to go straight on watch for a six-hour stretch. As soon as everything is ship-shape, the skipper goes to bed, and that is the last anyone sees of him for forty-eight hours or more.