20 minute read
OPEN HOUSE CHICAGO RETURNS WITHIN-PERSON EVENTS
Open House Chicago takes sites from around the city and, for one weekend, opens them up to the public, even sites that are rarely open for public viewing. One of the best parts is that it is completely free, therefore inclusive to anyone, regardless of income status. There are over 100 sites all around the city over the weekend of October 16 and 17, including mansions (The Wheeler, Lang House Chicago), office buildings (Wintrust Grand Banking Hall, Bank of America Tower), public buildings (Fine Arts Building, Harold Washington Library Center), churches (First Presbyterian Church of Chicago, First Church of Deliverance), breweries (Lake Effect Brewing Company, Eris Brewery & Cider House), art studios (Kenar Studio, Sulzen Fine Art Studio), apartments (The Penthouse Hyde Park, 5040-5060 North Marine Drive) and more.
In addition to the sites, the Chicago Architecture Center has also developed a list of "trails," which are self-guided tours for walking, biking or driving. The trails are available on the free Open House Chicago app, downloadable from the App Store and Google Play Store (search OHC2021). The trails will be available all month long, to allow Chicago architecture fans to experience them at their own pace. Some highlight trails are: The Great Chicago Fire; Obamas in Hyde Park (see page 13); Helmut Jahn (in conjunction with the CAC’s current exhibit “Helmut Jahn: Life + Architecture"); and many more.
With all of this to get through in two days, it can be a little overwhelming. We decided to help narrow down the list by highlighting some can’t-miss sites and trails of Open House Chicago 2021.
ALBANY PARK / AVONDALE / IRVING PARK
1. Eris Brewery & Cider House 4240 W. Irving Park Rd. Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
The 17-foot-tall windows on the east and west elevations and the soaring ceilings at 4240 W. Irving Park Road “were love at first sight” for Katy Pizza, managing partner of Eris Brewery and Cider House, the first establishment in Illinois to make cider, brew beer and run a full-service restaurant under one roof. The women-owned business won the 2019 Landmarks Illinois Richard H. Driehaus Foundation Award for adaptive reuse of the former MCMX Masonic Temple, built around 1910 and used in the ’80s as a Korean Presbyterian Church. In addition to tackling deferred maintenance, the restoration focused on sustainability and energy efficiency, right down to a geothermal heating and cooling system that captures and reuses waste energy from the brewing process for heat and hot water. There are also handriveted steel beams, brick walls and light fixtures. As a fraternal organization and then a church, the building was a bit of a mystery, Pizza said, but now it is open to the community – a destination for socializing and an economic driver for the neighborhood. Open House visitors will be provided a map for a 15-20 minute self-guided tour of architectural points of interest in- side and out.
-by Suzanne Hanney
2. Irish American Heritage Center 4626 N. Knox Ave. Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
The Irish American Heritage Center (IAHC), 4626 N. Knox Ave., near the junction of the Kennedy and Edens expressways, has been a labor of love since it was purchased in 1985 and transformed through the volunteer labor of its members in the trades. Visitors to Open House Chicago will see not only preserved architectural elements of the former Chicago Public School built in 1927, but decorative artwork on its walls inspired by the medieval Book of Kells, done over 35 years by former art teacher Ed Cox. A year-round hub for Irish music and culture, the building features a library, ballroom with crystal chandeliers, 658-seat theater, art gallery, museum and gift shop. Its Fifth Province pub was designed to look like a traditional Irish gathering space where the community discusses news and sports and listens to live music. Founding tradesmen of the center – stonemasons, carpenters, woodworkers, tile masters and pipe fitters -- reused wood from the school for the service bar and chalkboards for its countertop. Modern Ireland consists of four provinces, so the name refers to both the ancient province of Meath and the worldwide Irish diaspora. Open House Chicago guests will be able to tour the building on their own or sign up for docentescorted tours. The Fifth Province will be serving food and beverages with ongoing musical performances and live Irish dancing. The Mayfair Theatre in the IAHC will screen exclusive short films from the Irish Film Institute. Art in the IAHC gallery will be available for sale. Parking in its two lots will be free. After Open House Chicago Saturday, there will be a rock concert fundraiser for IAHC (www.mayfairtheatre.org).
-by Suzanne Hanney
3. Lake Effect Brewing Company 4727 W. Montrose Ave., Suite C Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
Lake Effect is a Northwest Side secret at 4727 W. Montrose Ave., Suite C, tucked into an alley around the back of Chicago Costume, between Metra/ Mayfair and the CTA Blue Line at Montrose. Lake Effect’s focus has always been on inventive small batches, delivered to local stores within a few-mile radius: from 45th Ward Pale Ale, made from locally grown hops; to Fifth Province Ale, a mild Irish red ale custom made for the nearby Irish American Heritage Center. Owner Clint Bautz, an architect, started Lake Effect in 2011, intending to keep the operation modest and debt-free. Visitors to Open House Chicago will get an inside look at the brewing process, including the bottling area and barrel room, with short guided tours every 30 minutes. Brewery staff will be on hand to answer questions. You can also pick up some of its prized brews in the bottle shop. Lake Effect is moving within the year to a larger space, a former firehouse with upstairs apartments near the CTA Blue Line station at Jefferson Park.
-by Suzanne Hanney
DOWNTOWN
4. 1 North Dearborn 1 N. Dearborn St. Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
Built in 1917 as a Boston Store, these offices have been beautifully remodeled. Even with all of the impressive amenities and added artwork, the highlight is the new rooftop deck, which features a bar, fireplace, lounge, and garden. It also features a mural in tribute to the long-defunct Boston Store department store.
5. 300 South Riverside Plaza 300 S. Riverside Pl. Sat & Sun 10 - 5 pm
This building is most well known for being above Ogilvie train station. It has a curved profile, which provides river views on any floor. The building is LEED Gold-certified and has rooftop beehives. The lobby and indoor and outdoor amenity spaces have just been renovated. Guided tours will be provided.
6. Bank of America Tower 110 N. Wacker Drive Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
Situated directly on the Chicago River, the Bank of America Tower is the tallest office building in Chicago completed in the last 30 years. The building is all glass, which reflects the sky, and has 5 setbacks, which accentuate its height. The site of the building used to belong to Morton Salt, and references to the old building can be found on the riverside. Visitors are invited to the 3rd floor conference center and to check out the jaw-dropping views from the 55th floor.
7. McCormick Bridgehouse & Chicago River Museum 376 N. Michigan Ave. (NW corner of Michigan & Wacker, Riverwalk level) Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
Ever wonder what it looks like in the tower on the south side of the Michigan Avenue bridge? Gaze through the small portals and learn all about the city’s fascinating history with the river, as well as the innovative technology that went into engineering Chicago’s bridges.
8. Prudential Plaza 180 N. Stetson Ave. Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
Take in the stunning views from the 11th-floor skydeck of one of Chicago’s mid-century skyscrapers. The deck even features an adorable Airstream drink & food stand.
9. Chicago Architecture Center 111 E. Wacker Drive Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
-by StreetWise Vendor A. Allen
10. Seventeenth Church of Christ, Scientist 55 E. Wacker Drive Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 12 - 5 pm
The Chicago Architecture Center (CAC) is a really amazing place to visit. Coming in the door, the receptionist was so kind and inviting. I felt welcome and secure when she told me to start my tour on the left, before the movie began in five minutes. When I went in, there was a layout of the whole of downtown in miniature on a platform. I found the StreetWise offices on South State Street. I appreciated that the movie started out with the founder of Chicago, Jean Baptiste Pointe du Sable, mentioned its early population of 300 and reaching 3 million. I was fascinated with the whole video. Then I went to the second floor, dedicated to the architect Helmut Jahn. Leaving the CAC at 111 E. Wacker Drive, I decided to revisit an old friend, the Seventeenth Church of Christ, Scientist at 55 E. Wacker, about two blocks away. I’ve always liked this church, because, first off, it looks like a flying saucer in the middle of Wacker Drive. But I also remember coming in and studying the Bible and reading or listening to their very informative literature in the reading room. I like the six-sided shape of this sevenstory building, built in 1968, as well as the peace and quiet inside. I recommend both buildings to out-of-towners and Chicago residents alike during Open House Chicago.
-by StreetWise Vendor A. Allen
Hyde Park
11. The Penthouse at Hyde Park 5107 S. Blackstone Ave. Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 10 am - 1 pm
This 14-story Art Deco building was home to the Piccadilly Theatre from 1927 - 1963. The building is set apart from other Chicago landmarks because it was designed to be part movie house and part residential - rare in Chicago at the time, mostly found in New York. The theater has been demolished, but the rest of the building has been lovingly remodeled into highend apartments. The crown jewel of the property is its rooftop ballroom (on the cover) and terrace with both skyline and lakefront views.
Obamas in Hyde Park Trail
Take this self-guided tour in Hyde Park to visit some of the iconic landmarks that represent the Obamas, including 57th Street Books, Valois Cafeteria, and the Obama home. A nonprofit that just wants to sell books, 57th Street Books, 1301 E. 57th St., is a hidden gem in Chicago in that it features children’s books, cookbooks, fiction, and more! Barack Obama appeared at book signings here during the start of his presidential campaign. After that, you can head over to Valois restaurant, 1518 E. 53rd St., for lunch, also Barack Obama’s favorite restaurant in Chicago. Steak and eggs was his favorite meal. Valois Cafeteria is one of the oldest cafeterias in the United States, open for 100 years. Anyone who has ever eaten at Valois highly recommends trying their omelets. And the best thing to do after eating some delicious food is walk on over to the Obama home, a historic landmark located at 5046 S. Greenwood Ave. in Hyde Park.
-by Paige Bialik
LINCOLN PARK / OLD TOWN
12. Birch Road Cellar 1113 W. Armitage Ave. (buzz "Birch Road Cellar" to enter) Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
The Birch Road Cellar is a new site to visit in 2021. It is a BYOB private club, whose members can gain access with a fingerprint scan. Sounds very Bond. With no servers or bar, it seems that the club is actually just a private space to host get-togethers. What makes it special? I guess a visit will tell. Guided tours will be given every 15 minutes.
LOGAN SQUARE
13. Lincoln Lodge 2040 N. Milwaukee Ave. Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
A 3-theater comedy and training complex recently renovated in a 100-yearold steel-frame building. Guided tours are available, with visitors encouraged to get on stage and tell a joke. Lincoln Lodge will also be podcasting during the event, and some lucky visitors may be asked about their experience. Does that sound stressful? Don’t worry, the bar will be open and some libations should help with the stage fright.
14. Sulzen Fine Art Studio 2720 W. St. Georges Ct. Sat & Sun 10 Am - 5 pm
Built in 1905 and home to the Wold Airbrush Factory for most of its existence, it is now home to an artist and photographer couple. Since 2002, it has served as a gallery space, art studio, event space, as well as the owners' residence.
Uptown Entertainment District Trail
-by Robin Simon, long-time docent with Chicago Architecture Center
Riviera Theater One of the first movie palaces
The Riviera opened in 1918 as a movie palace, nine-years before “talkies” became all the rage. This was the second theater in what would become the Balaban & Katz (B&K) theater empire, with over 100 theaters throughout the Midwest including the Chicago, Cadillac Palace and Nederlander (formerly Oriental) Theatres, which still stand in the downtown Loop Theater District. B&K did many things to elevate the film-going experience for the public, who was not used to sitting next to strangers in the dark. Their motto, “the show starts on the sidewalk,” was clearly carried out in the elaborate ornamentation on the building’s façade, as well as the brightly-lit signage that could be seen by passersby from blocks away. The stated service policy of treating every patron “like a king or queen” was a welcome break from the typical 6-day work week of the thousands of weekly attendees. Movies became so popular that the opening of the Uptown a block north in 1925 (also owned by B&K) had minimal impact on business at the Riviera. Today, the building is a popular concert venue owned by JAM productions, presenting over 40 events a year prior to 2020.
Byline Bank Aragon Ballroom – shall we dance?
A neighborhood and North Side favorite since it opened in 1926, the Aragon Ballroom was owned by the Karzas brothers. Similar to what Balaban & Katz did for movie-going at venues like the Riviera and Uptown, they had great success cleaning up the image of public dancing from its prior associations with alcohol, gambling and prostitution. A dress code, strict no-alcohol policy and chaperones who prevented couples from dancing too close, combined with the 90-cent admission fee on Saturday night (compared to the Uptown’s 75 cents) ensured a certain level of clientele and activities inside. Big band favorites like Benny Goodman, Glenn Miller, Tommy Dorsey, Duke Ellington and others played live to crowds of up to 8,000 dancers. High attendance continued through the 1940s, but ballroom dancing ended at the Aragon in 1964. After serving as a roller rink, hosting wrestling and boxing matches and being a very popular disco in the 1970s, the Aragon has been owned by concert promoter Live Nation. Large photos in the ground-floor windows are of more recent musicians who have played at the Aragon.
Essanay Studios – A Storied Past
Before there was Hollywood, there was Essanay Studios. The company started in 1907 (located near what today is 1360 N. Wells) and this building opened in 1908, a handful of years before movie producers realized that California has much better year-round weather and lighting for filming than Chicago does. The remaining terra cotta ornamentation around the entrance features the company name, which is a mash-up of the first letters of the founders’ last names, S and A, for George Spoor and Gilbert “Bronco Billy” Anderson. Essanay Studios occupied the building for about 10 years and is often acknowledged as the most important structure connected to the Chicago’s role in the history of motion pictures. Early film pioneers, including Charlie Chaplin and Mary Pickford, appeared in movies filmed at Essanay Studios and on the surrounding streets of Uptown. The building is now owned by St. Augustine College and has been a Chicago City Landmark since 1996. Its Charlie Chaplin Auditorium hosts a variety of events for the college, including some for the public, where you can see a fun mural of Chaplin in his iconic Little Tramp role.
NEAR NORTH SIDE
15. Fourth Presbyterian Church 126 E. Chestnut St. Sat 10 am - 1 pm, Sun 1 - 4 pm
We walk past this beautiful and historic Gothic Revival church designed by architect Ralph Adams Cram (a Chicago landmark since its construction in 1914 and a national landmark since 1975) among the towering skyscrapers in the middle of Michigan Avenue all the time. Now walk inside and enjoy this striking building (affectionately known as Fourth Church to its more than 5,700 members) of Bedford limestone and rich ornamentation. Enjoy the exquisite sanctuary with its 1971 Aeolian-Skinner organ with 6,603 pipes and the 14 lifesized statues of musicians gracing the interior, setting the stage for its series of jazz, classical and chamber music. Relax in the peaceful courtyard and return in the evening to see the church’s beautiful glow at night, which adds immeasurable beauty to Michigan Avenue.
-By Judi Strauss-Lipkin
16. The Glunz Tavern & The House of Glunz Wine & Spirits Shop 1202-1206 N. Wells St. Sat 10 am - 5 pm, Sun 12 - 5 pm
Celebrate Oktoberfest by visiting The House of Glunz, Chicago’s oldest wine merchant – still family-owned and operated – a legacy celebrating 120 years. In 1888, great-grandfather Louis Glunz arrived from Westphalia, Germany, and opened this fine shop. Gaze at the original, now-historic shop - exquisite stained-glass panels and artistic pieces abound. Artifacts relating to the company’s history are on display, recalling the days when fortified wines came from Spain and Portugal in casks to be aged and bottled in its cellar. The Museum Room exhibits an extensive collection of fine wine goblets by artisans of many countries.
-by Judi Strauss-Lipkin
17. Sable Hotel 900 E. Grand Ave.
(For drivers, the hotel is most easily accessible from Navy Pier's East Garage via door 12. Parking fees will apply. For those on foot, the main entrance of the hotel is located along the north side of the Pier off of Grand Ave.) Sat & Sun 10 am - 2 pm This new 223-guest room hotel on Navy Pier takes full advantage of its surroundings and pulls its design inspiration from the Pier’s rich history. The hotel is named after a naval training ship, and the brass and millwork on the interior suggest a ship’s cabin. The blues and greens reflect the colors of the lake. Every guest room has views of the lake.
NEAR WEST SIDE
18. 540 W. Madison 540 W. Madison St. Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
Check out the 1.15 million-square-foot building that has become a landmark in the West Loop. It is a LEED Platinum Class A building with a roof garden that uses a rainwater irrigation system. Inside, the lobby features a 190-foot-long glass sculpture featuring over 3,000 handblown pieces. The second floor features a gym, conference center, media room, and dining area. This is new in 2021 and longer lines are expected.
19. Herman Miller Fulton Market 1100 W. Fulton Market Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
This building once was home to a poultry wholesale business, and is now home to Herman Miller, Inc., one of the most respected names in furniture design. The rooftop Eames Pavillion, a glass enclosed space, features the “Herman Miller: A Way of Living” exhibit of rare pieces and a few that have never been on display outside of the company headquarters before.
20. Notre Shop 118 N. Peoria St. Sat 11 am - 5 pm, Sun 12 - 5 pm
This Fulton Market space used to manufacture tin pans for bakeries; now it houses one of Chicago’s trendiest streetwear boutiques. One of the features that makes this space stand out is the undulating ramp/stairway in the vestibule, designed to connect the level of the building's floor with street level. The result creates a large area that can be used as a social area, great for parties, talks or workshops. The store sells some of the most covetable clothing and shoes in Chicago, so why not make sure you have the perfect shoes for the rest of your Open House visits!
PULLMAN
21. Pullman National Monument Visitor Information Center 11001 S. Cottage Grove Ave. (Parking lot is located at 610 E. 111th St.) Sat & Sun 10 am - 4 pm
The clock tower in Pullman was the focal point of the manufacturing community. In 1998, arson ravaged the tower, creating the need for reconstruction. In 2015, President Barack Obama declared Pullman a national monument. The National Park Service has completed the restorations of the clock tower, and it now serves as a visitor center for the historic community. Tours of the visitor center and exhibits are self-guided, but capacity will be limited due to COVID restrictions.
SOUTH LOOP
22. McCormick Place Rooftop Farm 2301 S. Indiana Ave. (enter via gate 40, at 23rd & Indiana) Sat 10 am - 3 pm, closed Sun
McCormick Place architects knew the building would have an environmental impact, so to help mitigate, they included a green roof in their designs, then went beyond and created a terrace and event space as well. The Chicago Botanic Garden’s Windy City Harvest program transformed the roof into the largest farmto-fork garden in the Midwest in 2013, yielding more than 8,000 pounds of produce annually.
23. The Wheeler Mansion 2020 S. Calumet Ave. Sat & Sun 10 am - 5 pm
Built by architect Otis T. Wheelock in 1870, this is the only surviving mansion on Calumet Avenue. It was built as a residence for banker Calvin T. Wheeler, and through the years, it has been a publishing company, an eggs and butter warehouse, and more. In 1999, it was lovingly restored into a guest house with 11 rooms and suites, and is now designated as a Chicago Landmark. Guided tours are available, and expect longer lines.
-Written by Dave Hamilton, except where noted