5 minute read
Where Y'at?
If you’re hungry, odds are you’re at Liz’s.
BY KEVIN GARRETT
REPORTED TO SERVE YUMMY BREAKFAST on The Northshore, Liz’s Where Y’at Diner delivers as promised. The owner, Liz Munson, greets me like a friend or a family member when I enter the place. A large mural of a peace sign and the word “love” is painted on the sunny yellow wall. Aqua and yellow chairs decorate the brightly lit room with its traditional black-and-white checkerboard floor.
Not wanting to wait with the gathering crowd seated on the benches outside, I take a stool at the corrugated metal-wrapped bar, which reminds me of my favorite beach shacks in the Caribbean. Observing the lively conversation between the bartender and the couple next to me, I ask, “How often do you eat here, and what’s good?”
“We’re from Illinois,” replies the man. “This is our first time here. We found it on Yelp.”
I’m not a Yelp kind of guy. I had exited the interstate because I wanted to see old Mandeville. On the main drag, the palm tree mural painted on the front of Liz’s Where Y’at Diner and the line of people waiting outside to get in, convinced me to stop.
At that moment, a waitress sporting the diner’s signature tie-dyed T-shirt presents the couple’s order of Barbecued Shrimp and Cheesy Grits and a Berry Crazy Waffle. The scent and look of the tall, fluffy biscuits—brown across the top and buttery in texture and served with the shrimp and grits— transports me to the memory of the biscuits my grandfather made every morning. The arrival of their food ends our conversation.
I typically make up my mind about what to order in a flash, but this unique menu is not your typical diner fare. It invites you to linger. Grits and Grillades (topped with slow-cooked round roast and brown debris gravy) and the Seafood Scrambler catch my eye. After deliberation, I order the fresh-squeezed blood orange juice and the Crabby—blackened tomatoes topped with two grilled crab cakes, two poached eggs and Cajun hollandaise sauce. For my side, the creamy homemade grits with cheddar cheese rounds out my meal. I use a dash of my favorite Tabasco sauce in my grits.
I’m rarely tempted by sweets, but curiosity gets the best of me. I succumb to trying the Bananas Foster French Toast for dessert.
Although Liz’s Where Y’at (a traditional greeting used by New Orleanians for “how you doin’?”) is hailed for its breakfasts, the lunch menu yields some surprises, too. Appetizers include Napoleon Fried Green Tomatoes crowned with a pepper-jack cheese and locally caught crawfish and shrimp cream sauce. Diners might opt for the Shrimp Remoulade Salad, which features fried green tomatoes on a bed of spring greens, or the Crabmeat Grilled Cheese—a sandwich of fresh crab meat sauteed with asparagus, roasted red peppers and green onions with pepper jelly cream cheese, which is spread on a brioche bun and then grilled. Only later do I discover that this humble little place was voted by Travel & Leisure readers as one of the “Top 10 Diners in the United States” in 2018 and an unforgettable brunch spot in Southern Living in 2023. I also learn that it’s won a host of other awards, but the owner lets her food do the talking.
Only later do I discover that this humble little place was voted by Travel & Leisure readers as one of the “Top 10 Diners in the United States” in 2018.
On this mid-morning, the buzz in the room matches the vibrant colors on the wall and despite the pace the staff keeps, the atmosphere remains peaceful and convivial. The heartbeat of this Mandeville treasure is Liz, a native of New Orleans who spent 15 years in the industry before opening her own restaurant in 2009. Several of her menu’s star dishes are inspired by New Orleans’ favorites and execute a fun twist on them.
In constant motion, the petite proprietor greets guests with a warm hug or a peck on the cheek. Then she swings by tables, dropping off eye-popping, generously portioned plates, or she’s bussing as needed. Her joyous spirit is reflected in her staff, who follow her lead.
You don’t often find a diner that’s Instagram-worthy, but during my visit, I watch as people take photos of the food and selfies with Liz, who graciously poses whenever asked. Her establishment radiates a fun beach vibe-meets-Cajun cool, a blend of the restaurateur's favorite things. Most days and weekends, you’ll find Liz at her namesake diner. She has created a party atmosphere where locals and visitors from near and far gather. The bar is busy with colorful daiquiris whirring in the blender and local Abita beers are especially popular.
“I love everything about what I do,” says Liz. And it shows.
RAISE A FORK: Liz’s Where Y’at Diner is located at 2500 Florida St., Mandeville, LA, 70448 lizswhereyatdiner.com.