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Escape to an island to call your own, if only for a weekend
By Erin Gifford
WE HAVE HIT THE water on kayaks, canoes and stand-up paddleboards — the perfect social distancing activity for the coronavirus pandemic. It’s been a cinch to stay a paddle’s length apart on local lakes and ponds.
Although many have received a vaccine, social distancing remains a wise protocol. Cautious adventurers are still heading outdoors and seeking refuge at remote campsites where they can keep at least an oar’s length from strangers.
These isolated isles make it easy. Whether you prefer tents and sleeping bags or climate-controlled cabins with bathrooms and electricity there’s a private island for you and your watercraft. SHARP’S ISLAND, VA.
When you want to be in the city, but you want your space too, there’s Sharp’s Island in Richmond, Va. This tiny 1-acre forested island with a sandy beach to boot sits squarely in the middle of the James River, wowing with winning views of the 108-year-old Mayo Bridge and the downtown skyline.
Overnight guests can set off in a motorboat from Ancarrow’s Landing or put a kayak or canoe into the river near the south end of the Mayo Bridge to reach Sharp’s Island. Bring your own tubes or buy a few from the island’s owners for a carefree float along the James River or to simply chill in one of dozens of refreshing swimming holes.
Watch the sun set, then toast marshmallows over a fire pit before retiring to your campsite under the stars. Andy Thompson , one of the island’s owners, noticed he had the perfect socially distanced escape last summer. “People realized they could get out and camp with their families and be
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totally separated from anyone else,” says Thompson. LAKE GEORGE ISLANDS, N.Y.
In New York’s Adirondacks region, Lake George is home to several clusters of state-owned islands that can be reserved for paddle-in day use activities or overnight camping. The Lake George Islands can be reached by canoe or kayak, or even motorized boats and sailboats.
The area was once a fashionable summer spot for families to escape from the city. Photographer Alfred Stieglitz and his wife, artist Georgia O’Keeffe, spent summers on the lake. Stieglitz, who often turned to the sky for inspiration, took photographs of the clouds in his series Equivalents, while O’Keeffe took inspiration from the natural world in her paintings.
To spark your own creative journey, book your campsite online at Reserve America.com or take a chance on one of the first-come, first-serve sites. These campsites can only be booked in-person at the ranger station. All islands have at least one toilet, a fire ring and a picnic table.
The Glen Island Group is a favorite with more than two dozen islands, including single-site islands, like Perch and Little Gourd. Hermit Island is a top pick given its proximity to Glen Island, which is home to a ranger station and a general store for live bait, firewood, groceries and other supplies, as well as ice cream scoops. LITTLE WHORTLEBURY ISLAND, N.H.
Lake George, N.Y.
ALDEN PELLETT
Little Whortlebury Island is one of only a handful of private islands for rent on Lake Winnipesaukee . There is no cabin or abode of any kind on the 4-acre island, so plan to bring your own tents and sleeping bags. This does not mean the island lacks amenities. In fact, the island is stocked with cooking utensils and tableware. There is also a large dining table, a stone barbecue pit, food prep tables, tent platforms and a composting toilet.
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Coney Island, W.Va.
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— Andy Thompson, Sharp’s Island, Va.
BEFORE YOU Paddle Away
Paddle-in getaways can be ideal for those who prefer not to rub elbows with crowds on sandy beaches or at popular theme parks. However, there is more to know before you push away from shore — as in, know your physical and mental limits.
■ Take note of the weather and share your float plan with family or friends on land.
■ Wear a personal flotation device and know how to safely get in and out of a watercraft.
■ Once you’ve had all the good times, practice leave-no-trace principles. Pack your trash and leave the island as clean and natural as it was when you arrived.
BYOB (boat, that is) or rent one from Melvin Village Marina for the short hop to Little Whortlebury Island . Spend your days fishing in the lake or tuning in to the haunting calls of the majestic loons. Make time to paddle or motor out to Liliuokalani’s Ice Cream Shop for a scoop or two.
Staying on Little Whortlebury truly allows you to get back to basics, like blueberries. “One of the great things about the island is that there are tons of wild blueberries to feast on, especially in August,” says Sabra Gandhi Sellers , daughter-in-law of the island’s owner, noted American architect David Sellers.
CONEY ISLAND, W.VA.
Coney Island may be part of the name, but this retreat is not close to Brooklyn. It’s actually within the New River Gorge National Park, recently designated as a preserve in the National Park System.
Here, you’ll find The Cabin on Coney Island , a climate-controlled cabin that can sleep up to 10 people between two bedrooms and a loft with three twin-size trundle beds.
Coney Island is located at the confluence of the New and Greenbrier rivers in Hinton. The cabin has amenities such as flush toilets, a full kitchen, electricity and air conditioning. Outside, you’ll find a fire pit as well as comfortable chairs to read in on the porch. The island is just a quick paddle from shore, just the length of a football field from the boat launch to the island. But an in-town outfitter can also taxi you over.
Beyond a well-appointed cabin, you’ll find 7 acres of hiking trails and a small sandy beach. Bring your own food for lunch and dinner. Breakfast basics are provided — fresh fruit, cereal, oatmeal, coffee and tea. The cabin is also stocked with cleaning supplies, paper products and firewood.
“Guests who come to the island for a vacation want to stay on the island,” says Holli Lathroum, marketing manager of MountainPlex Properties , which operates the cabin. “They want to kayak around the island, go fishing, listen to the river and not do a lot of anything, just relax.”
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few years after I moved to New York, I cycled from Brooklyn
Ato Montreal. Pushing off from my front door, I pedaled across the Brooklyn Bridge and up the Hudson River, climbed through the Adirondacks and rolled along Lake Champlain.
It was a way to get to know my adopted state and its Stewart’s Shops, faded mill towns and roadside apple trees. I felt its topography in my legs and breathed its spruce-scented air. Going 10 miles an hour, I got a different view than I would whizzing by on the interstate. I felt connected to the place.
Lately, we’ve all been forced to rediscover areas close to home. As pandemic restrictions limit travel, a bike trip offers a healthy and affordable local escape. Some routes like the the Empire State Trail, at 750 miles the longest statewide trail in the country, are recently completed and have new signage and maps. But all either follow spectacular back roads or are on trails closed to vehicles. As on-road routes and off-road trails multiply nationwide, trails such as this are part of a growing movement to encourage bicycle travel. Here are four to explore:
Adams Basin, N.Y.
KEITH BOAS PHOTOGRAPHY
U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE 201 AND TORREY C. BROWN RAIL TRAIL
Maryland
The U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS) is a growing network of bikefriendly routes in 31 states and Washington, D.C. In January, it added U.S. Bicycle Route 201 in Maryland, a 62-mile stretch from the Delaware border to Monkton in Baltimore County. Though some roads may be busy, they have wide shoulders and are safe to ride on. You’ll cross the Susquehanna River (only open to cyclists on weekends) and pass farms and a beautiful wooded area around the Big Gunpowder Falls.
For those just dipping a toe into riding, try the flat, off-road Torrey C. Brown Rail Trail which runs 20 miles along the old Northern Central Railway line from Cockeysville to New Freedom, Pa., at the state border. If you’re keen to keep pedaling, continue along the 27-mile Heritage Rail Trail to York.
Cockeysville, Monkton, Elkton and others
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Planning your trip
Taking an independent bike tour can be daunting, so just think of it as a road trip that requires some extra planning and fitness. For overnight trips, book campsites, Airbnbs or inns about 40 or 50 miles apart; assuming you average 8 or 10 miles an hour, that gives you time to make stops along the way. These organizations and apps are great resources to help you plan your journey: The Adventure Cycling Association coordinates the U.S. Bicycle Route System (USBRS), publishes maps for routes nationwide and offers bike touring advice on its blog. ▶ adventurecycling.org Rails-to-Trails Conservancy, a leading advocate for trail development nationwide, publishes maps, information and route reviews on its website and trail-finder app TrailLink. ▶ traillink.com
The Ride with GPS app and website helps you find the best cycling routes around the world, with detailed maps, photos and descriptions of rides. ▶ ridewithgps.com The Western New England Greenway is an on-road bike route through Connecticut, Massachusetts and Vermont with downloadable maps. ▶ wnegreenway.org The East Coast Greenway is a 3,000-mile network of on-road routes and trails from Florida to Maine. ▶ greenway.org The Bicycle Coalition of Maine has mapped out recommended routes across the state that you can download to your phone. ▶ bikemaine.org/where-to-ride Warmshowers is a community of bicycle tourists that helps members find places to stay on the road and free places to pitch tents. ▶ warmshowers.org
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Amsterdam Gateway Bridge, New York
NEW YORK STATE OFFICE OF PARKS
EMPIRE STATE TRAIL
New York
The two-pronged Empire State Trail (EST) stretches from Manhattan to Canada and Albany to Buffalo. The four-year project created more than 180 miles of new trails and improved highway and railroad crossings; 75 percent of the trail is off road and other segments share low-traffic roads with cars.
The route starts at the Battery in lower Manhattan and parallels the Hudson out of the city. In Putnam County, it picks up the scenic 23-mile Maybrook Trailway, which passes waterfalls, lakes and brooks and crosses the Appalachian Trail. Other new highlights include the 36-mile Albany-Hudson Electric Trail, which visits Nassau Lake and historic villages in Columbia County; a bridge near Syracuse with views of Onondaga Lake; and a trail along the Mohawk River. The easiest section for less-experienced riders is the 360-mile trail from Buffalo to Albany, which is almost entirely off road.
The ambitious statewide route is the result of decades of advocacy by groups like Parks & Trails New York and the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy . “Once these trails are built, the community can’t imagine life without them,” says Dylan Carey, project director at Parks & Trails New York. “The more it happens, the more people see how much value trails bring to communities, in terms of public health and economic development.” Carey expects the EST to become a model for other regional networks.
Multiple places along the route, including New York City, Albany and Buffalo
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U.S. BICYCLE ROUTE 501
Maine
The 327-mile U.S. Bicycle Route 501 in inland Maine follows low-traffic rural roads from Bangor to Allagash. Hugging the Penobscot River, it takes in views of Mount Katahdin and passes potato farms and Amish communities in Aroostook County. Near the Canadian border, the route overlaps with the St. John Valley Cultural Byway, where French-English signs reveal the area’s Acadian heritage. Wildlife is abundant: Look for moose in waterways at dawn and dusk, and bald eagles along the Penobscot.
Erik da Silva, safety education manager at the Bicycle Coalition of Maine, says you’ll also find Mainers to be friendly to cyclists on these lonely roads. “You see people on their porch, and you wave to each other,” he says. “I’ve asked for water or to pick an apple in their yard.”
Multiple places along the route, including Bangor, Lincoln and Presque Isle
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JEFF LATIMER
GRANITE STATE RAIL TRAIL
New Hampshire
New Hampshire has its own statewide bike trail vision: the Granite State Rail Trail (GSRT) running from Salem to Lebanon. It’s a work in progress, with a stretch through wetlands in Londonderry recently opening. For now, Jeff Latimer, bike shop owner and chair of the GSRT organization, recommends a two-day tour from Manchester to Lebanon. The first 40-mile section does follow roads, so families or new cyclists may prefer to start in Boscawen and ride the off-road Northern Rail Trail to Lebanon, about 60 miles. The route passes horse farms, white-steepled churches, pick-your-own apple orchards, quirky general stores and Mascoma Lake, staying close to water much of the time.
Serious cyclists can extend their trip by following the on-road Connecticut River Scenic Byway to St. Johnsbury, Vt. It’s all part of another long-term vision: to connect New England’s states through a 1,100-mile trail network.
Lebanon, Boscawen, Concord or Manchester
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