Explore the southwest corner of Virginia

The Other Virginia

Natural wonders stun in this less-visited section of the state

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN GIFFORD

Sand Cave, Cumberland Gap National Historical Park

For many, Virginia conjures up images of the majestic Blue Ridge Mountains or the renowned Shenandoah Valley. Maybe thoughts of the wide 3-mile stretch of boardwalk at Virginia Beach or the stately presidential homesteads of Monticello or Mount Vernon enter your mind when the Old Dominion is mentioned.

Few envisage sandstone slot canyons, an ice-cold aquamarine swimming hole or free-roaming ponies stationed alongside the iconic Appalachian Trail. Yet, this is also Virginia — southwest Virginia — the less-trafficked section of the state that’s unlike what most experience motoring along its heavily traveled highways, Interstate 95 and I-81.

“Southwest Virginia is a mecca of outdoor recreation in a setting that is not overcrowded or overused,” says David Woodard, executive director for the Heart of Appalachia Tourism Authority in St. Paul, Va. Here are five must-see places to experience on your next visit:

STOP #1: SAND CAVE

Located on the far east side of Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, a remote trailhead in Ewing draws in curious hikers for a nearly 4-mile ascent along dirt trails to reach the Sand Cave. It’s a remarkable geological formation deep within a verdant forest.

The 250-foot-wide half-domed Sand Cave was once a massive sandstone rock, which the wind painstakingly eroded over millions of years. A stunning acre of beachlike sand inside a wondrous rock cave resulted.

From this same trail, scramble to the top of White Rocks, wide sandstone cliffs used as a guidepost for settlers heading West in the late 1700s. From here, it’s about a 15-mile drive to Wilderness Road State Park to greet (from a distance) a small herd of mighty buffalo, much like those that once carved a migratory trace through the Cumberland Gap.

STOP #2: DEVIL’S BATHTUB

The curiously named Devil’s Bathtub is your next stop. About 50 miles from Sand Cave, Devil’s Bathtub has been attracting visitors for years, if only to dip their toes in the crystal-clear basin. Be warned, it's really cold — no warmer than 65 degrees, even in the unwavering heat of summer.

It’s difficult not to be curious about the name. According to Pam Cox, director of tourism for Explore Scott County, it’s purportedly called Devil’s Bathtub because it’s the “only water cold enough to squelch the fires of hell.” At the very least, it makes a good story and draws visitors into the county.

Of course, it’s shaped like a large bathtub, too. That’s cool on its own. The basin fills with waters from the Devil’s Fork of Big Stony Creek in Jefferson National Forest. Just ahead of the bathtub itself is an overflowing waterfall and a swimming hole. Even better, there are two rope swings. In summer, it’s a true oasis.

STOP #3: BREAKS INTERSTATE PARK

Once you’ve dried off and warmed up, make the 70-mile drive to Breaks Interstate Park, a breathtaking natural wonder that straddles Virginia and Kentucky.

The mountainous 4,500-acre state park is home to Breaks Canyon, the “Grand Canyon of the South.” This 5-mile-long gorge was formed by the once-tumultuous Russell Fork River, causing a break in Pine Mountain. At 1,650 feet, it claims to be the deepest gorge on the East Coast.

Spend the night at the park’s 77-room mountain lodge. From here, it’s a short walk to Towers Overlook for postcard-perfect views of the Hershey’s Kiss-shaped rock formation within the Russell Fork River. In the morning, more than a dozen hiking trails await, yielding unrivaled access to the park’s geological wonderland.

Rock scrambles, small caves, hidden springs and cliff overhangs mesmerize outdoor adventurers. Hike into the gorge along the Camp Branch Trail to be awed from below by the park’s crown jewel, The Towers.

STOP #4: THE GREAT CHANNELS

Slot canyons are legendary in the American West. In Channels State Forest, a winding 3-mile ascent along the rugged Brumley Mountain Trail guides inquisitive visitors to the Great Channels, a captivating labyrinth of slot canyons set atop craggy Clinch Mountain.

The secluded nature preserve, about 45 miles from Breaks Interstate Park, is best known for its peculiar slot canyons. The 20-acre sandstone maze was likely created some 10,000 years ago by permafrost and ice wedging, which formed large crevices that began as negligible cracks in the soft sandstone.

The other-worldly slot canyons deserve more than a cursory exploration. Come prepared to climb gigantic sandstone formations, squeeze through narrow passages and duck under exposed overhangs. Onerous obstacles and irksome dead ends confound even the most directionally confident explorers.

STOP #5: GRAYSON HIGHLANDS STATE PARK

From the Great Channels, it’s a 77-mile drive to ogle wild ponies at Grayson Highlands State Park. Yes, free-roaming brown and white ponies clip-clop across this pristine park. They are most often seen at Wilburn Ridge and live year-round at elevations of 4,000 feet and higher.

It’s a short hike to Wilburn Ridge — ground zero for pony-spotting — by way of the Appalachian Trail. Consider an overnight stay. Grayson Highlands is a backpackers’ paradise. It’s hike-in tent camping only. No super-size RVs or travel trailers permitted.

There are also four primitive yurts. As in, no electricity, water, heat or air conditioning. There’s also an Airbnb that’s minutes from the park for an amenityrich cabin rental.

While ponies reign supreme at Grayson Highlands, the state park is also home to two of Virginia’s tallest peaks, Big Pinnacle and Little Pinnacle, accessed by way of the Twin Pinnacles Trail. Since Grayson Highlands is already at a relatively high elevation, the overall gain on this hike is less than 250 feet for seriously spectacular views.

From here, it’s a 175-mile drive to Knoxville, Tenn., or about 350 miles up I-81 to Washington, D.C. Savor the sweet memories of Southwest Virginia, but don’t tell too many people about this wonderland. It’s worth keeping as a secret.