GO ESCAPE Winter 2020 by STUDIO Gannett

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WINTER 2020

ICY ITINERARY

JUSTA JESKOVA/TOURISM WHISTLER

Embrace winter at these frosty destinations

Ice cave near Whistler, British Columbia

WINTER 2020

FEATURES 30

SURPRISE PARTY

GIFTS GALORE

Diner En Blanc extends its worldwide reach

CityPlace near Miami

UP FRONT

REGIONS

8 10 12 14 16 18 20 24 28

n NORTHEAST 52 Gizelle Bryant’s

102 106 110

TOP U.S. AIRLINES CHECKPOINT CHANGE REAL ID DROWSY DRIVING SOCIAL MEDIA TRAVEL TINY HOME VACATIONS HIGH-TECH HOTELS CRUISE HACKS SAY CHEESE

54 58

Washington, D.C. Enjoy covert cocktails at Washington, D.C., speakeasies Vermont’s frozen Lake Champlain draws thrill-seekers

DESTINATIONS

70 74

86 90 92

Getty Images

4 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

Napa Valley, Calif. Neon Museum lights up Las Vegas Explore Kauai’s Napali Coast in Hawaii Eco-friendly Oregon

PHOTOGRAPHER

116 120

these coastal cruises Plan a family-friendly vacation in Miami Orlando offers more than theme parks Soar over North Carolina’s Outer Banks Visit legendary golf landmarks

n MIDWEST 80 Beth Maitland’s

Kalalau Trail in Kauai, Hawaii

n PACIFIC 114 Tamera Mowry-Housley’s

n SOUTHEAST 60 Karin Slaughter’s Atlanta 62 See the South on

ON THE COVER

Dip into New Mexico’s hot springs Do it all in Denver Top-rated ski resorts Celebrate the Grand Canyon’s centennial

Rapid City, S.D. Celebrate winter in Elkhart Lake, Wis. South Dakota’s state parks turn 100 Seek sips at Des Moines wineries Apollo 11 exhibit lands in Ohio

n WEST 94 Ice-T’s Chandler, Ariz. 96 Unusual Arizona hotels

124

n MEXICO 128 Guanajuato has European flare

n EUROPE 130 Discover Glasgow, Scotland

n CANADA 132 Awesome Thompson Okanagan

n CARIBBEAN 136 Petit St. Vincent offers scenic solitude

n CRUISES 140 All aboard for an Antarctic cruise

n ONE FOR THE ROAD 144 See beautiful waterfalls from coast to coast

All prices and availability are subject to change.

KIM SARGENT; GETTY IMAGES

Load your sleigh at these shopping spots

FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS

PREMIUM PUBLICATION EDITORIAL

DIRECTOR Jeanette Barrett-Stokes jbstokes@usatoday.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jerald Council jcouncil@usatoday.com MANAGING EDITOR Michelle Washington mjwashington@usatoday.com

There are more than 7,000 islands in the Caribbean, and Diane Bair, who wrote about Petit St. Vincent (page 136), is doing her best to visit them all. As a correspondent for The Boston Globe and AAA Journeys, she often travels solo to romantic locations — an occupational hazard. “Often, it’s me and the honeymooners,” she says. “Once they realize I’m working, they buy me a drink.”

Brian Barth is a freelance journalist based in Toronto who contributes to the New Yorker, Washington Post, National Geographic and other publications. After college, he spent six months living on Maui and has also visited Kauai, where he hiked the Kalalau Trail on the Napali Coast (page 120). “The most challenging — and spectacular — hike I’ve ever done,” he says.

ISSUE EDITOR Tracy Scott Forson ISSUE DESIGNER Lisa M. Zilka EDITORS Amy Sinatra Ayres Harry Lister Sara Schwartz Debbie Williams DESIGNERS Hayleigh Corkey Amira Martin Debra Moore Gina Toole Saunders INTERN Amber Tucker CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Matt Alderton, Rasha Ali, Diane Bair, Joel Banner Baird, Jennifer Barger, Brian Barth, Lisa A. Beach, Scott Berman, Larry Bleiberg, Brian Taylor Carlson, Ana Pelayo Connery, Scott Craven, Ashley Day, Lisa Davis, Erin Gifford, Dawn Gilbertson, Jefferson Graham, Trevor Hughes, Todd Kelly, Austin Lammers, Christine Loomis, Andrea Reeves, Shameika Rhymes, Kristen Seymour, Jennifer Streaks, Corinne Whiting, Pamela Wright, Stacey Zable

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PROVIDED BY THE CONTRIBUTORS

Travel writer Lisa Davis shares her love of ice caves, snowshoe hikes and frozen waterfalls throughout the U.S. and parts of Canada (page 36). She also revisits the Grand Canyon (page 110) some 10 years after first hiking to its bottom. It remains “one of the best destinations in the world for a brilliant star-filled night sky,”she says. Between trips, Davis lives in Chicago with her beloved dogs, Boo and Blanca.

Author and financial reporter Jennifer Streaks often offers insights on money, but for this issue, she sheds light on a travel trend: using social media to connect with strangers to visit far-off destinations (page 16). Her work has appeared on HuffPost.com, ABC, Fox Business and CNBC, where she serves as an on-air contributor. The Washington, D.C.-based freelance journalist published her first book, Thrive! ... Affordably, in 2016.

VP, ADVERTISING Patrick Burke | (703) 854-5914 pburke@usatoday.com ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Vanessa Salvo | (703) 854-6499 vsalvo@usatoday.com

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Tap into our CRAFTY CREATIONS From across the globe to down-home Southern fare, explore what makes Clarksville hip at heart and authentic from the start. Plan your trip today at visitclarksvilletn.com.

| GO ESCAPE

UP FRONT I N T H E N O W, I N T H E K N O W

TRAVEL 8

TRENDS 16

LODGING 18

CRUISES 24

FOOD 28

JUMP IN

GETTY IMAGES

Whether it’s an ocean, hot spring or lake, few things say “vacation” like time spent on the water. Inside, we offer several places to make a splash!

UP FRONT | TRAVEL

TOP U.S. AIRLINES 1 2 3 4 5

JetBlue Airways Southwest Airlines Alaska Airlines Delta Air Lines American Airlines

SOURCE: J.D. POWER

First-class Flights LOW COST WAS once the primary factor when ranking the nation’s top airlines, but more affordable carriers are facing stiffer competition from traditional airlines that have improved their service and operations. “New technology investments have dramatically improved the reservation and check-in process. Fleets are newer, and travelers generally feel that they are getting great value for their money,” says Michael Taylor, travel intelligence lead at J.D. Power. “These improvements have been most profound in the traditional carrier segment, where customer satisfaction has climbed considerably.” The company’s 2019 North America Airline Satisfaction Study found that overall customer satisfaction has increased. However, travelers did identify areas where they’d like to see changes. “The one area where both traditional and low-cost carriers can still improve ... is in in-flight services,” Taylor says. “It continues to be the lowest-ranked factor in the study, as many airlines still struggle with in-flight entertainment, connectivity, in-seat power and food service.”

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J.D. Power’s North Americ a Airline Satisfaction Study, now in its 15th year, measures: u Cost and fees u In-flight services u Aircraft u Boarding, deplaning, bag gage u Flight crew u Check-in u Reservations

GETTY IMAGES

Travelers choose amenities, service over low fares

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UP FRONT | TRAVEL

Checkpoint Change Travelers left TSA nearly $1 million in ‘tips’ last year BY TRACY SCOTT FORSON

10 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

security checkpoints at airports across the nation. In 2013, that number was $638,143. In 2018, that amount swelled to $960,105, according to TSA data. That’s thousands more than the cost of most single-engine private planes. However, the TSA doesn’t use that money to purchase jets. Instead, unclaimed money is documented and turned into the agency’s financial office, TSA says. The funds are used to assist TSA in maintaining safe and orderly airports in several ways, including creating foreign language signs, supporting TSA Precheck and checkpoint maintenance. So, the next time you leave money in the checkpoint bin — knowingly or not — rest assured that it’s likely being used to make your next airport experience better.

The largest sum of money was left at checkpoints in New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport. More than

$72,000

was collected in 2018.

GETTY IMAGES

YOU ARRIVE AT the airport late and after an impatient wait in line, you’re finally at the security checkpoint. You know the routine: Remove your shoes, take out your laptop, rip off your jacket. Throw it all in the bin. As you subject yourself to the full-body scanner, your items are enduring the same. Once through, you’re all ready for the mad dash to your gate. You hurriedly collect your belongings and then realize all your loose change has fallen into the bin. “Oh, well,” you say to yourself as you consider the money you might lose if you stop to collect the coins and miss your flight as a result. “They can have it.” Money wasted? Not exactly. That decision could benefit future travelers. Each year, the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) calculates the amount of money left at its

om for t s o f thi s fe s t i ve borde r t ow n . U n c ov e n j oy t h e c er a ... and p c al cu l ture , ni g h t li fe , s hop pi ng , a n i U r o t d f i n e g r a nd dle ce in hi s d S ad e x p e r i e n o t t e h m e only c a sino - h e ho h t n o e c n w a o t e l i n i n i n g. ne a nd c h

Re l a

Texa s

UP FRONT | TRAVEL

The Star

All Real IDs are designated with a star at the top.

Keeping it Real Make sure you’ve got the right ID to board a U.S. flight

IF YOU’RE PLANNING a trip that involves a domestic flight after Oct. 1, 2020, take a look at your driver’s license or state ID. Does it have a star in the upper portion? If so, you’re in compliance with federal minimum-security standards recently implemented by the Department of Homeland Security. If not, you’ve got some work to do. The star-stamped document, called a Real ID, allows passengers age 18 and older to pass through airport security under legislation passed by Congress in 2005. The Real ID Act sets national standards for the issuance of state identification cards that will be accepted at airports, other federally regulated facilities and nuclear power plants. Beginning Oct. 1, 2020, every traveler must present a Real IDcompliant driver’s license, or another acceptable form of identification, to fly within the United States. If you are not sure whether your license or ID is “real,” check with your local department of motor vehicles (DMV).

12 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

Obtaining a Real ID is not mandaholder’s biographic and biometric data. tory: a valid passport or military ID will If you choose to obtain a Real ID, the be accepted for domestic flights, just process is much like renewing your as it is for international trips. However, driver’s license, but with some changes. travelers should consider getting a First, check with your local DMV to see Real ID “sooner rather than later,” says what your state accepts for supporting Transportation Security Administration documents to identify yourself. Second, spokesperson Lisa Farbstein. you will have to go to Real IDs are currently your local DMV to have a available in 47 states and all new photo taken and you but one U.S. territory. Each of will need to bring those the not-yet-compliant states supporting documents. For more details — Oregon, Oklahoma and One of the most and a full list of New Jersey — and American important items on your acceptable forms Samoa was expected to meet travel to-do list is making of identification for the federal government’s Oct. sure your documents are domestic air travel, 10, 2019, deadline to make in order — long before you go to tsa.gov/travel/ the ID available for residents. arrive at the airport. security-screening/ Another acceptable form The last thing a traveler identification of ID for domestic flights wants, Farbstein says, is is an Enhanced Driver’s to be “standing with License (EDL), currently available in thousands of dollars in nonrefundable five states, Michigan, Minnesota, New airline tickets for your family with York, Vermont and Washington. The prepaid hotel reservations as the TSA EDL provides proof of identity and officer is telling you that your ID isn’t U.S. citizenship and includes a radiovalid. You’re officially between a rock frequency identification chip with the and a hard place.”

GETTY IMAGES; TRANSPORTATION SECURITY ADMINISTRATION

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UP FRONT | TRAVEL

Drowsy Driving These tips will help keep you alert on your next road trip BY AMBER TUCKER AND TRACY SCOTT FORSON

THERE ARE FEW better ways to admire the American landscape than a long drive along a picturesque highway. That eight-hour ride from Washington. D.C., to Charleston, S.C., or that seven-hour drive from Chicago to Nashville allows drivers to enjoy the scenery — amber waves of grain and all. However, if drivers don’t properly prepare, drowsiness can turn trips into tragedies. A 2014 AAA survey found that 21 percent of fatal crashes involved a drowsy driver. Many are aware of the risks involved with texting behind the wheel or driving under the influence of alcohol, but steering while sleepy can be just as dangerous, according to experts. “Missing a few hours of sleep each day can often seem harmless,” says Jake Nelson, director of traffic safety

Rest is Best

Turning up the radio, opening the window and turning up the air conditioner have not proved to be effective ways to stay awake while driving. SOURCE: CENTERS FOR DISEASE CONTROL AND PREVENTION

14 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

advocacy and research for AAA. “Missing just two or three hours of sleep can more than quadruple your risk for a crash, which is the equivalent of driving drunk.” About 35 percent of U.S. drivers sleep less than the recommended seven hours each night, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. “It’s such a cultural issue,” says Jennifer Pearce, a Virginia resident whose sister, Nicole Lee, was killed in a drowsy-driving crash in 2008. “It’s almost like it’s cooler, even as adults, to be able to do these monumental things on as little sleep” as possible. Proper sleep is the No. 1 weapon against drowsy driving, but Dr. Nathaniel Watson, director of Harborview Sleep Clinic at the University of Washington, and researchers at AAA offer other suggestions to help keep your eyes open and on the road:

Sleep well. Getting seven or more hours of sleep each night is the best way to prevent drowsy driving.

Break it up. Schedule breaks every two hours or 100 miles.

Day drive. Avoid driving at night. Travel at times of the day when you are normally awake.

— Nathan Bomey and Bart Jansen contributed to this article.

Eat light. Avoid heavy foods and medications that cause drowsiness.

GETTY IMAGES

Take a nap. Pull over at a rest stop for a quick nap — between 20 and 30 minutes can help keep you alert.

UP FRONT | TRENDS

Worldwide Web Social media sites connect strangers in need of travel companions

ROGER LEARY WANTED to travel, and he preferred to not do it alone. The 56-year-old DJ from Massachusetts was in search of fun, hassle-free travel experiences with like-minded individuals. After experiencing some pretty horrific dates, he decided to turn to social media and eventually used it to find companions of a different sort — those who were willing and available to join him on his excursions. Since joining Meetup.com in 2007, Leary founded South Shore Hike, Bike & Social Club, which has nearly 4,000 members (about 500 are active). He’s led four trips to places that include Belize and Costa Rica, and he’s currently planning one to Ireland. Leary’s experience is part of a

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trend of perfect strangers who consider connecting online the perfect way to find companions. Black & Latino Traveling Singles, which was founded in March and caters to those age 30 and older, currently has more than 750 members interested in meetups in New York City and group travel. “Want to take a trip or do something interesting in NYC or around the world ... but you don’t want to do it alone ... this is the place for you,” reads the group’s Facebook page. More than 1,500 users have joined the Travel Buddies Facebook group, launched from Oxford, England, in 2016. “We are a community set up to link fellow (travelers) who want some company on an upcoming holiday,”

I just wanted to find likeminded people who wanted to enjoy nature, be healthy, get outside and have some fun.” — ROGER LEARY

GETTY IMAGES; PROVIDED BY ROGER LEARY (2); PROVIDED BY THE COMPANIES

BY JENNIFER STREAKS

CONNECT Social media sites aren’t the only way strangers can connect for travel. TourRadar, which “provides (travelers) with everything they need to plan and book their next great escape in one place,” recently gave away a trip around the world. This allexpenses-paid trip of a lifetime came with only one catch: The winner would have to travel with a total stranger. There also are several apps that can help you find travel companions. Check out three:

y and Roger Lear ns io compan a in Costa Ric

the page reads. “The idea is that you will post your idea or information for your holiday and, hopefully, find a travel mate to share your adventure with.” Many of these “social travelers” prefer sojourning with strangers to avoid the potential pressure that can come with traveling with family, friends or romantic partners. “People would rather travel with strangers than people they know because, with someone new, they can take on any new fantasy identity they want,” says relationship expert and author Gilda

Carle. “Why interact with someone who already knows your warts — and may even criticize you for them? Instead, new people equal brand new behaviors and interactions, and we never know what these new connections can evolve into.” For many, connecting online with strangers to share a traveling experience is considerably easier. However, Leary advises caution when meeting strangers for trips. He screens potential travel mates before they go: “Those that drink too much or seem picky or like

they might be difficult, I don’t go out of my way to encourage.” Beforehand, decisions are made about how bills will be paid and which expenses will be shared. In some cases, money may be deposited into an account to pay for housing or transportation. For some, embarking on such adventures with total strangers might be a difficult decision, but for Leary, it made perfect sense. “I just wanted to find like-minded people who wanted to enjoy nature, be healthy, get outside and have some fun,” he says.

Leary with a group in Belize

TOURLINA This app allows female travelers to connect with other women in a secure setting and is great for international travel. utourlina.com

SOLOTRAVELLER Meet new people and save money on your trip expenses with this app, which lets you connect with fellow globe-trotters to snag ride-shares, split dinners and see the sights. usolotravellerapp.com

BACKPACKR You know where you want to go, and you know when. Enter that info into the Backpackr app, and you’ll be connected with others with the same idea. ubackpackr.org

UP FRONT | LODGING

A Little Luxury 10 great places to try tiny-house living on vacation BY LARRY BLEIBERG

BLUE MOON RISING | MCHENRY, MD.

With more than a dozen tiny homes, this western Maryland mountain resort offers a getaway near a deep-gorge lake. The homes include a small kitchen, but guests also have access to a clubhouse with a full-size cooking facility. “They’ve got bright-colored doors and interesting shapes. Every single one of them is unique,” Weisbarth says. “They’re fairy taleesque.” bluemoonrising.org

18 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

GETAWAY TINY HOMES | STANARDSVILLE, VA.

This company focuses on Northeast getaways, with secluded tiny homes within two hours of Washington, D.C., New York and Boston. The newest outpost, located on a wooded 80-acre property near Shenandoah National Park, includes several dozen homes, sleeping two to four people. Each comes with a mini kitchen, along with firepit, grilling grate and outdoor picnic table. getaway.house

AUSTIN’S ORIGINAL TINY HOME HOTEL | AUSTIN, TEXAS

Located in a tree-shaded RV park, there’s a hot tub, pool, firepit and party patio, but the six tiny houses are the real attractions. “Austin is a great town for tiny homes,” says Weisbarth. tinyhomeshoteltexas.com

FIRESIDE RESORT | JACKSON HOLE, WYO.

Guests can sleep in tiny luxury at this upscale retreat in the Rockies. Rental options include two dozen tiny homes, like the new miniscule Road Haus, which packs hotel amenities into 200 square feet, with plenty of windows to let in light. All rentals have Wi-Fi, a fireplace, kitchen, deck and an outdoor firepit. Plus, there’s a centrally located hot tub. firesidejacksonhole.com/wyomingcabin-rentals.htm

JOHN R. ROGERS PHOTOGRAPHY; FIRESIDE RESORT; NICOLE CHAN PHOTOGRAPHY; BLUE MOON RISING

THE LATEST WAY to live large on vacation is to think small. The tiny-house trend has spawned hotels that allow guests to experience what it’s like to live in fully contained homes that can measure less than 200 square feet. “People are just curious because they’ve heard so much about tiny houses,” says John Weisbarth of FYI and A&E networks’ Tiny House Nation. His co-host, contractor Zack Giffin, says guests are surprised by the amenities that can be packed into a small place. “They’re very luxurious. It’s almost like renting your own house or getaway, and it’s priced more like a hotel room.” The partners share some favorite rentals with USA TODAY:

JEFFREY FREEMAN; DJWC PHOTOGRAPHY; JEROME BRAGA; WEECASA TINY HOUSE RESORT; LIVE A LITTLE CHATT; UNITED TINY HOUSE RENTALS

CARAVAN TINY HOUSE HOTEL | PORTLAND, ORE.

TINY HOUSE SIESTA | SIESTA KEY, FLA.

TUXBURY POND | SOUTH HAMPTON, N.H.

The Northwest is big on little living spaces, and this lodging featuring homes on wheels claims to be the first tiny-house hotel. “I stayed there, and it was totally fantastic,” says Giffin. tinyhousehotel.com

This former RV park is evolving into a tiny-house bastion, with more than a dozen options for lightpacking sun lovers. Choices include homes inspired by a lifeguard stand and a tiny, teardrop-shaped trailer. “It’s a fantastic way to stay in a really cute environment,” Giffin says. tinyhousesiesta.com

About an hour north of Boston, this RV resort offers five tiny homes, including one that welcomes pets. “You can stay in these homes and then buy identical homes from the company,” Giffin says. tuxburytinyhouse.com

UNITED TINY HOUSE RENTALS | EATONTON, GA.

This tiny house company will deliver your lodging to a lakefront campsite in Georgia, or even farther afield. It can set up guests for luxury glamping or an off-thegrid experience. Current options include yurts and a tiny trailer home known as a gypsy wagon. “It’s almost like a wagon on wagon wheels,” Weisbarth says. unitedtinyhouserentals.com

LIVE A LITTLE CHATT | RISING FAWN, GA.

Near Chattanooga, Tenn., these three houses offer a scenic take on tiny-house living. They range in size from a relatively palatial 500 square feet to a cozy 126-square-foot home that includes a wine-barrel shower and sleeps four. “Chattanooga is an absolute hotbed in the tiny-house community. There are very progressive, dialed-in builders,” Giffin says. livealittlechatt.com

WEECASA | LYONS, COLO.

With nearly two dozen homes, this riverfront property is tiny-house heaven, says Giffin. Located near Boulder, it’s one of the oldest and biggest tiny-house hotels. “It’s just neat because it’s a variety of tiny homes from a number of different builders. You can test out a pretty good variety, and it’s in this really beautiful setting.” weecasa.com

UP FRONT | LODGING

Comfy and Connected Hotels boost tech offerings to attract travelers in the digital age BY KRISTEN SEYMOUR

Juliana Barwick

THE HOTEL AMENITIES we can’t live without tend to change as our tastes evolve and as industry trends dictate what we should expect from our next booking. And now more than ever, those trends have us coveting technology over toiletries. (Although, let’s not kid ourselves — a bathroom stocked with fancy shampoo will never go unappreciated.)

20 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

A USER-FRIENDLY EXPERIENCE There are some tech amenities we’ve come to consider the norm, like complimentary, reliable Wi-Fi or convenient USB ports. It’s understandable — if we have access to those things at home,

it’s a matter of comfort for them to be available when we travel. Hotels such as Sister City, a new property on the lower East Side of New York City created by the people behind the Ace Hotel chain, aim to not only meet, but exceed guests’ expectations. In >

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If it’s not enticing it’s not the

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UP FRONT | LODGING

Bonsal of Gainesville, Fla. “I’ve been so spoiled by smart TVs in hotel rooms that when I stayed at a new ‘boutique’ hotel last weekend, not having a smart TV was an actual bummer that detracted from the stay.”

Marriott’s innovation includes convenient apps and the new Splash of Briliance.

addition to self-service check-in kiosks, Sister City offers white noise machines, B&O Play portable Bluetooth speakers, TVs with easy casting capabilities and high-quality headphones. “People are drawn to hotels that offer amenities that intuitively fit into their lives, ones that they might already use at home or at work, or ones that they’re excited to experience for the first time,” says Ryan Bukstein, vice president of brand for Atelier Ace/Ace Hotel Group. Sister City even partnered with Headspace to offer guests use of the meditation app during their stay. The ability to digitally conduct transactions is also a major draw. In a 2015 study by Software Advice, 60 percent of more than 3,100 respondents were more likely to choose hotels with apps that allow you to check in remotely and access rooms with your cellphone than less tech-friendly properties. Marriott Hotels noted this trend early on. “Increasingly, the question is becoming what tech amenity we don’t offer,” says Julius Robinson, senior vice president and global brand leader for classic

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full-service brands at Marriott International. Smart TVs are becoming more common in hotels, offering streaming services and premium channels, and now they are used for more than just entertaining. “Through our partnership with TED, we are able to provide carefully curated content for guests to enjoy in-room on the TVs, and you can now check in, make a request, order food, open your door, watch Netflix, book a restaurant table and check out digitally,” Robinson says. This bodes well for travelers who have become accustomed to these offerings, like Aubrey

While offering guests a seamless experience is the main goal, many hotels recognize that tech amenities can help them stand out from the crowd. In the case of Sister City, that comes in the form of a musical composition that uses artificial intelligence (AI). The lobby soundtrack, a collaboration between musician Juliana Barwick and Microsoft, uses technology to make something innovative for guests that is interactive and engaging. “We were able to use AI in an unexpected way to influence the composition in the lobby by training the AI to look for certain things happening in the skyline (using a rooftop camera), like planes passing by or different kinds of clouds,” says Amy Sorokas, director of strategic partnerships and brand strategy at Microsoft. Using tech to bring a unique score to life provides Sister City with “an opportunity to collaborate on making something profoundly original, beautiful and a little magical, too,” says Bukstein. Marriott considers its hotels hubs for testing new technology, including some interesting projects utilizing Google Home and Alexa for Hospitality for voice-activated rooms, says Robinson. The brand’s Splash of Brilliance pilot at Marriott hotels in Irvine, Calif., transforms shower doors into digital devices on which guests can capture their deep steam-inspired ideas and send them directly to their email accounts, proving that no room is off-limits. l

PROVIDED BY MARRIOTT

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vibrant culture, rich heritage and breathtaking natural beauty are what makes our state

“Just Right”

Stop • Stay • Play

Gaffney Visitors Center & Art Gallery 210 W. Frederick Street Gaffney, SC 29341 (864)487-6244 • events@getintogaffney.com www.getintogaffney.com/mustknow

Come and Savor South Carolina. There’s Something for Everybody to Enjoy. ConwaySCChamber.com DiscoverSouthCarolina.com

Our National Parks The National Mall welcomes millions every year, but what they see is hardly welcoming.

It welcomes the world to our most significant monuments and memorials. But like many national parks, the National Mall in Washington, D.C., desperately needs our help, including $350 million in federal funding for maintenance, repairs, and preservation. You can help with a simple letter. Visit NPCA.org/mall. Or call 1-800-NAT PARK.

UP FRONT | CRUISES

All Aboard! Follow these tips to get the most out of your next cruise BY LISA A. BEACH

SIX YEARS AGO, John and Heather Widmer quit their corporate jobs and ditched nearly everything they owned to travel around the world. Since then, they’ve circled the globe twice, visited more than 80 countries and sailed on 16 cruises, regularly sharing their adventures on RoamingAroundtheWorld.com. Eleven years ago, Laura Glenn and her husband, David, launched the travel agency Island Dreams World Travel based in Winter Springs, Fla., where 80 percent of their business comes from cruises. Laura has been on nearly 50 of them. No surprise, these cruise experts have some insider tips and hacks to make the most of every voyage:

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HOW DO YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT CRUISE LINE?

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO GO ON A CRUISE?

Laura Glenn likes to match the “personality” of the cruise line to the travelers. What type of vacation are they looking for? Families would probably enjoy Carnival, Royal Caribbean or Norwegian with wave pools, rock climbing walls and rope courses. Older couples or more affluent travelers might prefer Holland America or Viking for a more relaxed, upscale experience.

It depends on what you’re looking for or need to accommodate, like traveling when the weather is warm or when the kids are on break from school. But summer often translates into higher prices and crowded ships. “Any time kids are in school, you’ll find it less crowded and often get better deals,” notes Glenn. Off-peak seasons vary depending on the destination.

GETTY IMAGES; PROVIDED BY THE WIDMERS

ia The Widmers in St. Luc

HUNGER HACKS

HOW CAN TRAVELERS MAKE CRUISES MORE AFFORDABLE?

IS TRAVELER’S INSURANCE WORTH IT?

Book early (one year in advance) because cruise lines offer generous early-bird pricing, but continue monitoring the fare. Many cruise fares can be canceled or refunded. “If the price drops lower, cancel (and) rebook at the lower fare,” advises John Widmer. “Cruise lines will never notify you, so be proactive and monitor fares.” Another advantage of booking early? “You can spread out payments,” Glenn explains.

Resoundingly yes, Glenn and Widmer agree. “Most people spend $2,000 to $10,000 on a vacation, so treat it like an investment and protect it,” Glenn says. Widmer regularly reads horror stories on Facebook cruise groups: “People talk about missing a flight to get to a cruise, bad weather, an accident, a medical emergency,” he says, noting that U.S. health insurance often won’t cover you in foreign countries.

5 HOW DO GUESTS MAKE THE MOST OF ONBOARD DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT?

Book extras (like drink packages, Wi-Fi and shows) ahead of time, advises Glenn. You’ll save money and avoid the risk of sold-out performances or port excursions. “A lot of activities are free,” she notes, “but some still require reservations.” She suggests downloading the ship’s mobile app to preplan cruise activities and to communicate onboard with your party to avoid mobile roaming charges.

John Widmer, of RoamingAround theWorld.com, offers these insider tips for onboard dining. As always, check with each cruise line for their policies.

uSkip the lunchtime hoard at the buffet on your first day at sea. Instead, head to the other complimentary, less-crowded dining options.

uWhile you’ll have to pay for your caffeine fix at the specialty coffee shops onboard, most of their desserts are free.

uOn some cruise lines, room service is complimentary.

uCertain cruise

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BUT ON THE FLIP SIDE ...

Don’t discount last-minute deals, often surfacing about 45 days before the ship sails. This might work if the cruise is during off-peak season (September through November in the Caribbean, for example) or you can travel without much notice. “Cruise lines want to fill those cabins, hoping people will spend (money) at casinos, bars and shore excursions,” Widmer explains. “If you’re not loyal to one line or destination, you might find amazing deals.”

lines allow travelers to bring their own soda. Some even allow alcohol, such as two bottles of wine per cabin.

uDon’t miss the ship’s Captain’s Toast or Captain’s Reception, where complimentary cocktails, champagne or wine are offered.

UP FRONT | FOOD

Cheese, Please Try goody, gooey greatness at these destinations BY ASHLEY DAY

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WHETHER YOU PREFER a soft brie, gooey mozzarella or authentic ParmigianoReggiano, you can find what you like at cheese eateries across the country. Shop for your own custom cheese plate at the best destinations â&#x20AC;&#x201D; from famous brands, like Murrayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, to markets with hundreds of selections, such as Eataly or Le District. Or leave it to the pros and order from decadent cases at fine-dining restaurants or cheese board menus at approachable cheese bars. Here are some of the best places for cheese in America:

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A New York City institution, Murray’s Cheese opened in Greenwich Village in 1940. Murray’s offers hundreds of specialty cheeses sourced from around the world. Register for classes, such as Wine & Cheese 101 or Mozzarella Making. Also, stop by the cheese bar and restaurant, opened in 2012, just three doors down from the shop. Customize a cheese board, pair with a beverage and dine on full meals inside. murrayscheese.com

VIRGINIA ROLLISON; MURRAY’S CHEESE; THE PATIO ON GOLDFINCH; TREVOR HUGHES; TERRI PETERSON SMITH; PASCAL PERICH; JEFF THIBODEAU; MORGAN GOLDBERG

Eataly now has more than 35 locations worldwide, and the Salumi & Formaggi counter is a cheese mecca. Choose from more than 300 cheeses from Italy and America. Not only can customers enjoy international flavors from across the Atlantic, Salumi & Formaggi is staffed with friendly and knowledgeable cheesemongers who share the stories of the animals that produced the food, the people who crafted it and the land that gave it life. eataly.com/us_en

Just about any fine-dining venue can offer a wine cellar, but where can you find a cheese cave? Head to San Diego, to explore the one at The Patio on Goldfinch. Choose three to five cheeses for a tasting or customize a meat and cheese board. thepatioongoldfinch.com

At Le District, a French marketplace established in 2015 in downtown New York City, visitors can dine in with a cheese plate in the market. Menu items include a trio of cheeses, fresh mozzarella and other cheesy delicacies. ledistrict.com

In Boulder, Colo., Cured offers dozens of cheeses in its shop that includes gourmet goods, charcuterie and wine. Order a customized cheese and charcuterie plate or enjoy sandwiches featuring brie, mozzarella and cheddar. curedboulder.com

In Austin, Texas, Antonelli’s Cheese Shop offers a wide selection of in-store cheese, classes at a cheese house across the street and a menu of cheese items in Fareground food hall. When you are in need of a party platter, order from the shop’s various options, including vegetarian and pasteurized cheese selections. antonellischeese.com A self-proclaimed studio and lab, French Cheese Board feels like a museum with diagrams and infographics on everything from how to cut cheese to dairy cows. Of course, in this New York City museum, you can touch the flavorful exhibits. A rotating selection of cheeses is available for purchase. Tastings, cooking lessons and more interactive activities are available. frenchcheeseboard.com

Wisconsin’s Cosmic Wheel Creamery specializes in raw milkaged cheeses from the grass-fed Jersey cows at Turnip Rock Farm, where it’s made. You can also purchase the cheese at Minneapolis’ Mill City Farmers Market. cosmicwheelcreamery.com

INVITATION ONLY

Diner En Blanc continues to serve up special dining experiences

he sun fades, and the moonlight illuminates thousands of people dressed in all white for a chic pop-up dinner, the details of which have become one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-kept secrets. Diner en Blanc, (Dinner in White) is an exclusive posh picnic, meant to bring

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the elegance and glamour of Paris to 70-plus cities worldwide. Having hosted more than 130,000 attendees since its inception more than 30 years ago, the events have been held on five continents and in more than 30 U.S. cities, including Atlanta, Chicago, Cincinnati, New Orleans and Charlotte, N.C. >

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BY SHAMEIKA RHYMES

TIMOTHY A. CLARY (2); JEFFRY MARKS PHOTOGRAPHY

NEW YORK CITY | 2017 Plaza at Lincoln Center

CINCINNATI | 2018 Sawyer Point Park

The concept was created in 1988 when retired French entrepreneur Francois Pasquier wanted to host a dinner party for friends but didn’t have enough space. He instructed each person to bring someone new, and with 200 people on the final guest list, he turned the meal into a picnic and held it in Paris’ famous Bois de Boulogne. White attire was specified so participants could recognize each other, and they were told to bring their own food, creating the foundation for what would later be known as Diner en Blanc. What started off as a simple dinner party among friends has blossomed into an exclusive, prestigious event of who’s who in all white. The event dates vary by city, and some are held after the offi-

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cial end of summer, when many still adhere to the “no white after Labor Day” rule. Guests vie for the chance to participate in the large-scale picnic, but everything is top secret until the last minute. Participants, who provide their own food, tables, decorations and dinnerware, are asked to meet at an assigned location and then escorted by volunteers to their dining venue. “We try to keep it as secret as possible, as long as possible. The guests don’t know where it was being held until they get to the location,” says Tara Robertson, Diner en Blanc Charlotte coorganizer. Once diners have set up their areas with tables, chairs and food, the ceremonial white napkin is waved, and dinner commences.

Once the ceremonial

PHYLLIS THOMPSON; TIMOTHY A. CLARY; GETTY IMAGES

PARIS | 2019 Louvre Pyramid

New York City, 2017

white napkin is waved, dinner commences.

Diner En Blanc New Orleans group leader Missy Allain has been attending and volunteering for about five years. She says it’s difficult to plan and keep the event a secret, but there are benefits. “It’s so worth the hard work. I get to meet new people and attend for free. I also get to enjoy the relationships I’ve formed with other volunteers.” Getting invited to the posh soiree is no easy feat. Organizers tap into their personal social networks first, sending invitations to friends, family members, classmates, colleagues and acquaintances. From there, it’s all about word of mouth before the remainder of tickets are made available to the public. “This is exclusive, and that’s what makes it a buzz,” >

Romare Bearden Park, Charlotte, N.C., 2018

For locations, dates, lodging options or to volunteer, visit

Charlotte, N.C., 2018

dinerenblanc. com.

Robertson says. Diner en Blanc Charlotte co-organizer Leo Bennett adds, “People want to be invited to something and to feel special and privileged to have the opportunity to attend.” Guests who have attended the event and plan to attend future ones find the elusiveness appealing. Phyllis Thompson, a cardiac sonographer, attended the Cincinnati dinner and says there’s something about grabbing your closest friends and being in the midst of an ethereal atmosphere. “The most alluring part is the beautiful scene,” she says. “There’s something special about when the sun goes down: Everyone is dancing, and you can see the sparklers and candlelight and the Diner en Blanc emblem

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displayed on surrounding buildings.” Certified professional coach Valencia Frazier lives in Chicago and says social media envy piqued her interest. She attended the Atlanta dinner in September, and dining in Paris is on her bucket list. “Seeing the pictures of the food, the fashions, I mean who doesn’t love wearing fascinator hats?” she says. “Also seeing the tables of the individuals who were entered in the bestdecorated table-setting contest made me really want to go.” She reflects that once you get to the dinner and see the centerpieces and ice sculptures, it just brings something extra. “It really just added a level of elegance to the event.”

But you don’t have to attend with a group; some participants go alone and make connections when they get there. Frazier says she has attended a Chicago dinner by herself and still enjoyed the event. “I had a great time making new friends,” she says. Patrick Graham, a doctor of philosophy and entrepreneur, attended the Charlotte dinner and says the event is reminiscent of a family reunion with the emphasis on fashion. “It was like an upscale reunion with music that combined the nostalgia of old school R&B with today’s party themes,” he says. “Everyone had a festive vibe that felt like a block party with clothes from the runway.” Most dress in their Sunday best with women donning lace, pearls, fascinators, gloves and

JEFFRY MARKS PHOTOGRAPHY (2); TIMONTY A. CLARY

Diner En Blanc events are held in more than 30 U.S. cities.

MEAL PREP rules of engagement

According to Diner en Blanc, the for the event include:

Buy the required white square folding table, white chairs, white plates and white tablecloth. New York City, 2017

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Each state has its own laws about alcohol consumption. Do your research and ask the host. even costume masks. The party is the payoff, but that comes after purchasing tickets, putting together the perfect white outfit, packing and bringing your own necessities, and setting up your area. Graham says men seem to feel more inconvenienced by the prep. “The women were so organized about getting things together,” he says. “I thought I just had to put on a white outfit and that was it. I didn’t sign up for this extra, but once everything was settled, it became fun.” As the sparklers signal the end of the feast, guests pack up and fade into the night as orderly as they arrived, leaving the site of the dinner as if nothing ever happened — a secret that remains until the next year. l

Wear an elegant all-white outfit; no ivory, off-white, beige or other colors allowed.

Bring your own gourmet meal or order ahead from Diner en Blanc for an additional fee.

Attendees must transport everything to and from the secret dinner location.

WINTRY WONDERS

Chill out with some frozen fun at these icy destinations BY LISA DAVIS

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hether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an ice sculpture competition in Colorado where artists are only allowed to use hand tools to create their frosty designs, ice caves in Wisconsin or a colorful kite festival on a frozen lake in Iowa, there are many ways to find adventure in the snow this winter.

GETTY IMAGES; NATIONAL PARK SERVICE; MARK HOFFMAN/MILWAUKE JOURNAL SENTINEL

Apostle Islands, Wis. Walk, snowshoe or ski across a completely frozen Lake Superior to the Apostle Sea Caves (nps. gov/apis/index.htm) in northern Bayfield County. To ensure waters are chilled enough for cave-seekers to trek the 1 mile over ice from Meyers Beach Road to the caves, the National Park Service monitors conditions. (Meyers Beach Road is 18 miles west of Bayfield and 4 miles east of Cornucopia along Highway 13.) Expect to see giant needlelike icicles hanging from cave ceilings and a transparent ice floor. Large ice crystals are also formed from waves splashing against the caves’ rocks and by seeping between sandstone rock layers. The icy formations vary from cave to cave and from day to day. There are no authorized tours, so explorations are self-guided. Check online for up-to-date reports on conditions. The annual Book Across the Bay event (batb.org) is a Bayfield County icy adventure, scheduled for Feb. 15, 2020. It includes a 10-kilometer cross-country ski course across the frozen waters of Lake Superior, starting in Ashland and ending in Washburn. Held at night, the course is lit by 1,000 candles placed inside handmade ice luminaries that line the route. Afterward, stay overnight in Ashland in one of the historic cabins at Inn at Timber Cove (innattimbercove.com), which delivers farm-to-bed breakfast right to your cabin door.

Door County, Wis. This summer destination about 150 miles north of Milwaukee is equally as popular in winter. Ride the Washington Island ferry (wisferry.com) as it cuts through giant sheets of ice on its 30-minute voyage to Washington Island. The ferry leaves from Northport Pier at the end of Highway 42. Once on the island, visit a historic wooden stave church with architecture inspired by one constructed in 1150 AD in Borgund, Norway. Then, hike along the snowcovered Schoolhouse Beach and have lunch and a shot of bitters at Nelsen’s Hall Bitters Pub & Restaurant on Main Road (facebook. com/nelsenshallandbittersclub). Winter ferry reservations are required. For the courageous, Jacksonport Polar Bear Club’s annual New Year’s Day swim (jacksonportpolarbearclub. com) in the icy waters of Lake Michigan takes place at Lakeside Park Beach and is one of the largest events of its kind in the country. Prefer to stay on dry land? Take a guided snowshoe hike through the winter forest at The Ridges Sanctuary (ridgessanctuary. org) located in Baileys Harbor on the Lake Michigan side of Door County, or visit Door County’s Sturgeon Bay (doorcounty.com/ discover/sturgeon-bay/), home to one of the largest shipyards on the Great Lakes. Each winter, as many as 15 lake freighters, some as long as 1,000 feet, take refuge from the icy waters and dock at Fincantieri Bay Shipbuilding.

On the third Saturday in February each year, the gray winter skies in the village of Clear Lake become brighter when colorful kites fly high above the horizon, a Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade of sorts in the clouds. Dubbed as serious kite fliers, participants in the Color the Wind Kite Festival (colorthewind.org) come from several states to fly their kaleidoscopes on strings, helping Clear Lake residents and visitors escape cabin fever.

SNOW ART Simon Beck (facebook.com/snowart8848) has been dubbed the world’s first snow artist, creating art on the unconventional canvases of icy terrains. After studying civil engineering at Oxford University, Beck became a cartographer with a passion for drawing and geometric shapes. To create his snowy works, Beck uses only snowshoes and a ski pole for measurement. His work has been on display at Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada, Powder Mountain in Utah and the annual Great Northern festival in Minnesota.

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Minnesota If there’s one place that celebrates winter, it’s Minnesota. This is especially true during The Great Northern Festival (thegreatnorthernfestival.com) in the Twin Cities, which showcases plenty of winter-related talent from ice carving to curling and pond ice hockey. Held Jan. 23 to Feb. 2, 2020, this annual winter mega-festival also rewards those who brave the cold with movies on screens made of ice, outdoor restaurants and a community sauna for warming up. Minnesota’s Art Shanty Project (art shantyprojects.org) is another reason to venture outside this winter. It includes a village of artist-designed shanties (icefishing cabin–inspired structures) on Lake Harriet that visitors can explore, as well as an after-dark party in a heated tent with bingo, raffles and s’mores.

GETTY IMAGES; COLOR THE WIND KITE FESTIVAL

Clear Lake, Iowa

GETTY IMAGES; LOOP ICE CARNIVAL

Ohio Frozen waterfalls are the big draw to scenic Hocking Hills, about an hour outside of Columbus. The annual Hocking Hills Winter Hike (hockinghills.com), which takes place Jan. 18, 2020, is one way to see these icy formations. The 6-mile journey from Old Man’s Cave to Ash Cave passes by snowcovered rock formations and gorges as well as waterfalls frozen into crystalized sculptures. Continue the fun at the annual Logan Frozen Festival, featuring ice carving and a giant ice photo frame and throne for selfies. Afterward, warm up with a spa treatment at the Inn at Cedar Falls (innatcedarfalls.com), and then stay overnight in one of the inn’s heated, dome-shaped yurts. Don’t miss the inn’s holiday cookie baking classes on Nov. 29 and Dec. 1, where an instructor shares recipes for treats like gingersnaps, pistachio cherry meltaways, eggnog cookies and more.

Thompsonville, Mich. Show off your sled-making skills during the annual spring carnival at Crystal Mountain Resort (crystalmountain. com) in Thompsonville on March 14, 2020, featuring the Cardboard Classic where participants race their creations downhill. The Slush Cup takes place in the afternoon when skiers and snowboarders try to cross a slushy pond resulting in comical wipeouts. Other winter activities at the mountain include an ice rink with a chiller so visitors can skate from November to March, snowshoeing through the resort’s outdoor sculpture park with more than 50 works of art along 2 miles of trails and a winter concert featuring the Benzie Central High School chamber choir in the amphitheater on Dec. 14.

Missouri St. Louis’ annual

Loop Ice Carnival (visittheloop.com/ the-loop-ice-carnival) takes place Jan. 17-19, 2020, and includes ice carvings, a winter prom with an Ice Queen and King and more.

Montage Deer Valley

Utah At Solitude Mountain, enjoy a four-course dinner in a Mongolian yurt — the reward after a moonlit half-mile snowshoe hike (solitudemountain.

apres-ski yurt, sip on Veuve Clicquot champagne, the resort’s label of choice (montagehotels. com/deervalley). Relax near a fireplace on cozy couches while tasting a menu of local cheeses and charcuterie, caviar and gourmet popcorn that pairs surprisingly well with the bubbly. Park City Mountain resort host its annual Snowfest (parkcitymountain.com) Dec. 22 through Jan. 6, 2020, featuring live music and activities like ice sculpting and s’mores roasting. If you’re a dog lover, there’s a meet and greet with avalanche dogs that help patrol nearby ski resorts.

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GETTY IMAGES; MONTAGE DEER VALLEY

com/mountain-and-village/dining/ the-yurt). At Montage Deer Valley’s

Canada

Ice cave in Whistler, British Columbia

In Quebec, stay overnight at the only ice hotel in North America, the Hôtel de Glace (valcartier.com). Made entirely of snow and ice, this architectural marvel, open January through March 2020, includes themed guest suites, a chapel, an ice slide and an ice bar for cocktails served in frozen glasses. Though there are no ice hotels in Vancouver, the Rosewood Hotel Georgia (rosewoodhotels.com/en/hotel-georgia-vancouver) transforms its outdoor patio into a winter pop-up bar with festive lights and holiday décor and a menu of shareable plates like cheese fondue and desserts including walnut cake and a blood orange pot-de-crème. Outside of Vancouver, visitors to the Powell River region can hike in the snow along the higher elevations of British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast Trail (sunshinecoast-trail.com) including Tin Hat Mountain or the Knuckleheads recreation area. Both areas have winterized sleeping huts for hut-to-hut hikes. On the southern Sunshine Coast, snow aficionados can visit the Dakota Ridge winter recreation area (sunshinecoastcanada.com/things-todo/hidden-gems/dakota-ridge), which boasts miles of groomed cross-country ski and snowshoe trails. In Whistler, fly in a helicopter over Canada’s southernmost ice fields and then spend time exploring caves where natural ice formations flow. Dine in the caves’ aqua blue cathedral-like “grand halls” with Head-Line Mountain Holidays (headlinemountainholidays.com/heli-ice-cave/) or hike the trails through the old-growth forests at Cougar Mountain. Vallea Lumina (vallealumina.com) offers trails illuminated by emotive lights during winter nights, theatrical scenery and holograms.

GETTY IMAGES; MARC DIONNE; AUSTYN DINEEN

Breckenridge, Colo. What happens when you combine a 12-foot high, 20-ton block of snow, a small team of sculptors and a spatula? If you’re at Breckenridge’s International Snow Sculpture Championships (gobreck.com), you might see that hunk of snow transformed into a sculpture. The 2020 championships, which will take place Jan. 20-29, include 16 teams from around the world who descend on the mountain town to compete. The rules are clear: No power tools are permitted. The teams use ordinary kitchen tools, such as vegetable scrapers and egg beaters, plus ingenious methods like a makeshift saw made out of cutting wire. Snow sculpting has long been a part of Breckenridge’s history, mainly due to the hundreds of inches of snow that blanket the resort town’s ski mountains.

RENEE CASCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

ANGELES : : LOS Westfield Century City

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Holiday HAUL Load your sleigh with fantastic finds at these shopping destinations

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BY ANA PELAYO CONNERY

aking a list? Checking it twice? Before you go any further, take a look at our picks for the best places to go in search of the perfect gifts of the season. Shop till you drop in these great American cities. >

Holiday haul

CityPlace, Doral, Fla.

: MIAMI : Miami’s ample sunshine

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Brickell City Centre, Miami

Dolphin Mall, kids are handed wands at the start of each nightly “snowfall” so they can help conjure an evening blizzard. Leave the kiddos with a shopping buddy and sneak off to stock up on their favorite brands, like Hollister and Justice. Ugly sweater parties, Santa workshops and free gift wrapping — that’s what you’ll get when shopping at downtown’s Brickell City Centre, Miami’s newest outdoor shopping pavilion. Anchored by Saks Fifth Avenue, the four-story mall spans three city blocks. Drop: The Hotel Colonnade, Autograph Collection in Coral

GETTY IMAGES; NICK GARCIA; LIFESTYLE PRODUCTION GROUP

South Beach. “At one end of the Mile, they set up a Christmas makes outdoor shopping a park with a huge Christmas breeze. With so many alfresco tree, a Santa’s village with little shopping (and dining) houses, a mailbox for destinations and warm, letters to the North Pole, breezy weather, there’s and Santa himself!” TIP nothing like spending For books and special the holidays in the U.S. gifts, visit Books & mainland’s version of the Miami InternaBooks, a longtime local tional Airport tropics. bookshop and café with has some of the Shop: From bookstores live music and light bites best shopping of in a courtyard setting. to boutiques, home any airport in the décor shops and more, On the west side U.S. The shops the pedestrian-friendly of the city, a bevy of here reflect the promenade known as Latin flair Miami is boutiques make CityMiracle Mile in the heart famous for. From Place in Doral another of tony Coral Gables is apparel and sou- great spot for outdoor flanked on both sides by venirs by Brazilian holiday shopping. With a slew of shops. Modeled artist Romero unique shops like Agua Britto at Britto to Bendita for swimwear after Europe’s grand handmade cigars and Tarbay for one-of-aestates, the historical, at Cuban Crafters kind jewelry and leather Mediterranean-inspired MIA and Miamiarchitecture and goods lining pedestrian themed gifts at sidewalk cafés of this pathways, the destinaLittle Havana To upscale neighborhood tion is a nice alternative Go, there’s no dress up for the holidays, shortage of cool to chain store shopping. making this a favorite places to pick up During November and place for locals to shop last-minute gifts. December, enjoy a and stroll. faux snowfall on the “The palm trees lining the road center plaza, do some ice skating twinkle with lights, and bows and watch the fountain show adorn the storefronts,” says Alex synchronized to holiday music. Klumpp, co-founder of Beyond Nearby at the always-bustling

Gables is right on Miracle Mile, so you can step out the door and into a plethora of shops, galleries and restaurants in minutes. It’s also centrally located, making it easy to reach all the shopping neighborhoods and malls throughout the city.

YORK CITY : : NEW Holiday shopping in New

GETTY IMAGES: NEIL RASMUS/BFA.COM; WILL STEACY/NYC & COMPANY

York City deserves a spot on everyone’s bucket list. Millions around the world tune in each year to kick off the season with the famous Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade and the lighting of the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree. Why not make this the year you finally experience it all? Shop: More like art installations than simple window displays, the storefront scenes at Macy’s have been wowing visitors with spectacular productions since the 1870s. Today they’re joined by Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Barney’s, all of which have eye-catching displays that have people lining up for blocks for a glimpse. Beat the rush at the sixstory Nike NYC store, dubbed House of Innovation 000, with mobile checkout services and a convenient Speed Shop. The latter allows you to reserve shoes online then arrive through a dedicated entrance where you’ll

Columbus Circle market, New York

find a locker with your name on Winter Village,” says Victoria it that can be unlocked via your Sanchez-Lincoln, a New Yorksmartphone. based fashion and style editor. If artisanal shopping is more For indoor holiday shopping, the your thing, take the train or ferry Grand Central Holiday Fair at across the East River to Grand Central Station the Astoria Market in fills the iconic Vanderbilt TIP Queens. Held inside the Hall with toys, jewelry, Bohemian Hall & Beer and crafty goods for Garden, it takes place the Designer sample everyone on your list. If first three Sundays of you’ve got kids, landsales are one of December and features mark stores like FAO New York’s best handmade wares created shopping experi- Schwarz and Lego turn ences. Download it up for the holidays mostly by local artisans. the Shop Drop Brooklyn Flea, one of with amazing décor app for early the city’s most popular and experiential store access to the vintage flea markets, displays like the walk-on best sales and hosts Winter Flea + keyboard featured in the sneak peeks at Holiday Market every sample selections 1998 blockbuster film weekend from the end and prices before Big (FAO Schwarz) and a of November through range of hands-on buildanyone else. the New Year. More gifts ing workshops (Lego). can be found at similar holiday Drop: The historic Ace Hotel markets in Manhattan at Union is within walking distance of Square and Columbus Circle. several holiday markets as well “Home to New York City’s only as the main subway lines. Chic, free ice skating rink, the Holiday industrial décor make this one Shops and The Lodge — a of the NoMad District’s hippest rinkside pop-up bar and food hotels. It’s also home to the hall — Bryant Park creates a James Beard award-winning festival atmosphere in its annual Breslin restaurant. >

Saks Fifth Avenue, New York

charming cottages. Drop: Just minutes from the Grove, Rodeo Drive and other shopping areas, the InterContinental Los Angeles Century City offers complimentary Teslas to its guests to travel to Westfield Century City mall.

Holiday haul

: CHICAGO : With its winter wonderland

ANGELES : : LOS Like Miami, many of Los Angeles’ top shopping malls and villages are outdoors, but when it comes to holiday shopping, there’s no place like the City of Angels. This is home to Rodeo Drive and some of the world’s most stylish celebrities, after all. Shop: With a tree lighting ceremony that attracts star talent such as singers Daya and Jordin Sparks, a holiday trolley just for kids and one of the country’s largest Christmas trees, the Grove is Los Angeles’ premier outdoor shopping mall. Along with its nearby sister shopping destinations the Americana at Brand and Palisades Village, the Grove also features carolers and a twice-nightly “snowfall” throughout the season. All are home to large retail chains as well as smaller boutiques and specialty stores. Kid-friendly trolleys, roaming carolers and twinkling

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lights can be found on Rodeo Drive, one of the world’s most famous luxury shopping addresses. Check out the giant tree at the corner of Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard as you peruse the baubles at Cartier and the latest runway fashions at Prada. For a peek at a fully lit 110-foot tree that spans the width of a basketball court and the world’s biggest bow (36 feet), explore Citadel Outlets and discover bargains from 130 retailers, including Armani, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. Unlock additional savings during Moonlight Madness, the Citadel’s all-night shopping marathon that starts Thanksgiving night and runs the duration of Black Friday weekend. At Westfield Century City and Topanga & The Village shopping malls, take a spin on an ice rink and stroll through a special pop-up holiday market featuring retailers tucked into

Magnificent Mile, Chicago

GETTY IMAGES; RENEE CASCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; CHOOSE CHICAGO

Westfield Century City, Los Angeles

backdrop, the Windy City is the perfect place to do some serious holiday shopping. Whether you’re a label lover or a bargain hunter, Chicago has it all. Shop: One of the largest celebrations of its kind in the world, the Lights Festival along the Magnificent Mile — the eight-block stretch of Michigan Avenue that also serves as the city’s main thoroughfare — kicks off the weekend before Thanksgiving as an estimated 1 million twinkling lights on 200 trees brighten the famous street. Live performances by stars, including Cody Simpson, and a parade featuring Disney characters begins the festivities. The world’s top designers (Burberry, Apple and more) have a spot on the Mile, but don’t be fooled by the storefronts. Tucked inside many of the mammoth buildings are sprawling indoor shopping malls, including the 100-store Water Tower Place, home to the flagship American Girl Place, and the six-block Shops >

BEST AIRPORT

SHOPPING

Holiday haul

DUTY-FREE OFFERINGS MAKE THE PERFECT PRESENTS A little retail therapy can make hours spent waiting at an airport fly by. Airport Experience News nominated 15 airports with top-notch retail programs, offering travelers a wide range of shopping options — many duty-free — on either side of security. USA TODAY’s 10Best readers voted for their favorites. Here are three:

Christkindlmarket, Chicago

1: Water Tower Place, The Shops at North Bridge and 900 North Michigan Shops will deliver your shopping bags to your hotel the same day, freeing you to do more shopping.

at North Bridge, where you’ll find Nordstrom’s, Lucky and Hugo Boss. Bloomingdale’s anchors the seven-level 900 North Michigan Shops. On State Street in an area dubbed The Loop sits one of the largest department stores in the world (Macy’s) and the 25-acre Millennium Park with its stunning architecture, including the city’s famous Cloud Gate sculpture (also known as “the bean”), a giant ice rink and a oneof-a-kind Art Market. The latter features handmade jewelry, art and fashion by students at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago and other local schools. Visit on a Friday when local choral groups belt out holiday classics as part of “Caroling at Cloud Gate.” For trendy boutiques, upscale pet stores and home décor finds, visit Armitage Avenue in Lincoln Park. While there, check out the Holiday Market at the Lincoln Park Zoo. Set against the glow of 2.5 million lights,

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luminous displays and seasonal activities that make up ZooLights, this year’s Holiday Market takes place Dec. 3, and features a huge collection of local artisans and pop-up shops. Also worthy of a spot on your list of must-dos is Christkindlmarket. This annual outdoor market is more of a German Christmas village with 60-plus vendors selling everything from hand-blown glass ornaments to charming cuckoo clocks. A roaming Alpine brass band and a children’s lantern festival round out the monthlong celebration. For great deals, visit Chicago’s Premium Outlets and sign up to receive sales and other shopping alerts from the Simon Concierge Bot via Facebook Messenger. Drop: Right in the center of the Magnificent Mile, the Omni Chicago is a spacious, all-suite hotel within walking distance of several iconic shops and malls and just 1 mile from Millennium Park. l

MINNEAPOLIS-SAINT PAUL INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Passengers traveling through Minneapolis–Saint Paul International Airport have a variety of shops to choose from. National brands like Aveda, Johnston & Murphy, PGA and Swarovski are joined by local retailers Uptown Minnesota, North Loop Market and Adventure North. Find several duty-free drinks from Absolut vodka to Zacapa rum.

DETROIT METROPOLITAN WAYNE COUNTY AIRPORT The concessions program at DTW has recently taken a giant leap forward, delivering stores such as Porsche Design/Hugo Boss, Johnston & Murphy and the first-of-its-kind Beauty Boutique by Estee Lauder. DTW has replaced gift-news retailers with “travel stores,” creating the ultimate customer convenience by blending in coffee concepts such as DTW’s awardwinning Wall Street Journal/Starbuck’s. Duty-free gift packages, including three-bottle sets from Johnnie Walker’s Explorer’s Club Collection and a box of three L’Oreal lipstick colors, will help you get more for your money.

GETTY IMAGES; JIM PRISCHING

TIP

PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Phoenix’s status as a shopping mecca extends to its airport, with options like Bunky Boutique, Indigenous, Johnston & Murphy, Cactus Candy, TripAdvisor and Earth Spirit. A concessions update has brought an additional 16 new shops to Terminal 4, including Lucky Break, Sonora Southwest Living and Brookstone. Find duty-free Godiva chocolate and Versace Dylan Blue cologne.

Join in the plethora of excitement and adventure at St. Louis Union

Station, from the top of the now spinning 200-foot St. Louis Wheel to

the sweetest place at the station, St. Louis Soda Fountain. In December, the much anticipated St. Louis Aquarium opens where you can explore

global waters and the oceans darkest depths with thousands of aquatic animals. A fantastical journey like one never before!

St. Louis Aquarium Ropes Course Mini Golf | Carousel Mirror Maze

1820 Market Street

SEE

The St. Louis Wheel Fire & Light Show Grand Hall 3D Light Show

St. Louis, Missouri

STAY

St. Louis Union Station Hotel Curio - A Collection by HiltonTM

314.621.5262

EAT

Grand Hall | Landryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Train Shed | 1894 Cafe St. Louis Soda Fountain Station Grille

stlouisunionstation.com

| GO ESCAPE

EXPLORE AMERICA

58 124

82 80 86 90 52 116 102

114

106 74

110 96 94

120

NORTHEAST

SOUTHEAST

MIDWEST

WEST

PACIFIC

52 My Town: Washington, D.C.

60 My Town: Atlanta

80 My Town: Rapid City, S.D.

94 My Town: Chandler, Ariz.

114 My Town: Napa Valley, Calif.

54 Sip in secret at Washington, D.C. speakeasies

62 Cruise along the Mississippi

82 Visit Elkhart Lake, Wis.

96 Unusual Arizona hotels

66 Go beyond Miami’s nightlife

86 South Dakota parks celebrate

98 New Mexico hot springs

116 Las Vegas’ Neon Museum shines

70 Orlando isn’t just theme parks

90 Spend time with Des Moines’ wines

102 Rediscover Denver

58 Frozen Lake Champlain draws thrill-seekers MAP: STUDIO GANNETT

74 Soar over the Outer Banks 78 Great golf landmarks

92 Apollo 11 lands in Cincinnati

106 Explore top ski resorts

120 Say “aloha” to Kauai’s NaPali Coast 124 Eco-friendly Oregon

110 Grand Canyon’s 100th

NORTHEAST | M Y TOW N

GIZELLE BRYANT’S

Washington, D.C. Raised in northwest Washington, D.C.’s Shepherd Park, Gizelle Bryant of Bravo’s The Real Housewives of Potomac describes the city as a melting pot. Her love of diversity is evident in EveryHue Beauty, the cosmetics line she launched in 2017. “EveryHue was created for women of color specifically because I felt like we were overlooked,” she says. The busy mom of three also penned My Word, a novel loosely based on her former marriage to a pastor. The city has changed over the years, but Bryant feels the same affection for it as many of her fellow D.C. natives. “We own and love D.C.” — TRACY SCOTT FORSON

BEST PLACE TO

HANG OUT “I'm starting to love walking around the new Wharf D.C. waterfront. They have a big swing that my kids like to play on. It’s very pretty. If it’s nighttime, and I’m out with friends, I’ll go to Del Mar restaurant, and there’s La Vie, a lounge bar area. You take the elevator to get to La Vie. If you get the private rooms, you go higher, and the view is spectacular." wharfdc.com, delmardc.com, lavie-dc.com

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— GIZELLE BRYANT

nmaahc.si.edu

“I love the Kennedy Center. What I love about it is the plays that travel, like Hamilton and Wicked. I think even Lion King was there.“ Ladurée

kennedy-center.org

BEST

PARK

AFTERNOON TEA

“There’s one (playground) in Cabin John Regional Park in Montgomery County, Md., that I used to take my kids to all the time.“

“Ladurée in Georgetown has an afternoon tea on Saturdays and Sundays. We’ll do that and then go to the Watergate Hotel. It’s renovated. It’s beautiful. I also love it there. Their afternoon tea is great, too.“

montgomery parks.org

laduree.us, thewatergatehotel. com/dine-and-drink/ afternoon-tea

TOMMY GARCIA/BRAVO; DEREK EDWARD PFOHL; MATTHEW BORKOSKI

“

The National Museum of African American History and Culture. I have been there probably way too many times. Every time I go, it's like a proud feeling. ... That's my favorite museum."

CATCH A SHOW

Visit Hudson County, NJ to experience award-winning cuisine, diverse culture, and the exciting vibe of the fastest growing area in New Jersey! Enjoy dinner and cocktails at one of our many rooftop restaurants overlooking the NYC skyline, discover our art & studio tours, authentic cuisine, countless Fall & Winter events, and rich community history. Enjoy a colorful and authentic experience in Hudson County!

@visithudsonNJ Supported in part by a grant from the New Jersey Department of State, Division of Travel and Tourism

Visithudson.org

C E N T R A L N E W YO R K ’ S G E TAWAY R E G I O N

GET AWAY & EXPLORE

Your Adirondack Base Camp

“Snowmobile Capital of the East” Get Back to Real Winter Fun

F.X. MATT/SARANAC BREWER Y – UTICA

Only 4 hours from New York City, Utica is the ideal destination for a Central New York getaway. TheGetawayRegion.com | #ocnewyork ®NYSDED

McCauley Mtn. Ski Area

OldForgeNY.com

NORTHEAST | WA SHINGTON, D.C .

Goes Down Easy Washington, D.C.’s hidden bars are a hat tip to the Prohibition era BY RASHA ALI

f you’ve ever itched to do something slightly illegal, but lacked the courage to actually go through with it, modern-day speakeasies might give you the thrill you’re looking for — without running afoul of the law. These secret bars with inconspicuous entrances operated during the Prohibition era when there was a nationwide ban on the production and sale of liquor. During that dry season, people visited speakeasies to enjoy drinks in underground bars where law enforcement could not easily find them. Nearly 100 years later, speakeasies are still as popular as ever in Washington, D.C., a city that knows a little something about laws and those who oppose them. Be part of the resistance — sort of — by checking out these five hidden bars:

Guaranteed, you’ll walk past this bar at least twice before realizing you missed it. The Gibson is tucked away behind a random door that you’d never consider opening unless you knew exactly what you were going to find. Nestled right between the popular 14th Street staple, Marvin, and Bestway Liquors — right on the legendary U Street corridor — the door granting entry into The Gibson is only marked by numbers indicating its address: 2009. Once you’re in, the bar embodies the epitome of a speakeasy: It’s dimly lit and intimate. The menu is seasonal, and there’s always a variety of cocktails to choose from. uthegibsondc.squarespace.com

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XXXXXXXXXXXX PROVIDED BY THE ESTABLISHMENTS

THE GIBSON

XXXXXXXXXXXX

CHICKEN + WHISKEY You think you’re stepping into a casual chicken restaurant, but wait; there’s more! Walk past the soft drink machine to what looks like a stainless steel deep freezer door, and behind it is a whiskey bar styled similarly to the restaurant. The bar menu boasts 99 types of whiskey. We don’t recommend you try them all at once, but there are traditional whiskey-based cocktails like Sazerac and Penicillin that you can try with a different whiskey each time you go. Although it’s considered a whiskey bar, the venue, located on 14th Street Northwest not far from Logan Circle, also serves cocktails made with other liquors. uchickenandwhiskey.com

NORTHEAST | WA SHINGTON, D.C .

THE LIBRARY This U Street establishment gets an A+ for keeping its speakeasy under wraps as it draws all the attention to its upstairs dance floor and lounge area, which is a popular hangout on Friday and Saturday nights. The speakeasy, aptly called The Library, is hidden behind a bookcase on the first floor of Cloak & Dagger. It’s the first thing people entering will see, but most make a quick right to head to the second floor to dance. The bar is designed with a Victorian-era theme, and the drinks have cool names like Tequila Mockingbird and Truth Serum. ucloakdaggerdc.com

THE ALEX Located in Georgetown, this hideaway bar is a gem. It’s tucked away behind a gray door that looks like it’s protecting a secret vault or maybe just a supply closet. You’ll make your way down a few steps until you reach a quaint bar that’s reminiscent of something out of a classic mob movie. The bartenders are friendly, and the drinks are great. You can even get a gin and tonic served in a tiny bathtub — a nod to the troughs bootleggers once used to concoct their elixirs. If none of the cocktails on the menu tickles your fancy, the mixologists are more than happy to make a custom drink to your liking. Oh, and the menu is printed as a newspaper. Super creative. uthegrahamgeorgetown.com/dining-georgetown

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This hidden venue on D.C.’s busy K Street Northwest is as authentic as a speakeasy can be. Its previous incarnation, The Speak, was shut down twice because it was operating illegally. Now under new management, it’s called The Mirror. The entrance sits at the bottom of a flight of stairs. You’ll be met with a full-length mirror and a “For Rent” sign taped to the wall next to it. It looks like a vacant space, but the bar is hidden behind the mirror. The dimly lit area shields patrons from drinking in public view of law enforcement — should this be the 1920s. There’s even a wall that looks like it’s boarded up to give the illusion of a bar no longer in operation. The cocktail menu, printed on a piece of old cardboard, is simple, with classic favorites like an Old Fashioned or a Sidecar. uthemirrordc.com

PROVIDED BY THE ESTABLISHMENTS

THE MIRROR

A million lights. A million smiles.

You’re going to

LOVE

Kent

County

Holiday events 60 unique shops Restaurants Elegant country inn Indoor fun center

Visit Maryland’s Upper Eastern Shore on the Chesapeake Bay Kayak, Fish, Sail, Cruise, Relax... Enjoy the Chesapeake Bay, scenic rivers, historic towns, water trails, wineries, distillery, local seafood, performing arts theaters, Arts & Entertainment District, Eastern Neck NWR, award-winning farmers & artisans market, and more.

kentcounty.com PeddlersVillage.com • Bucks County, PA 75 miles from NYC • 45 miles from Philly

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Chestertown • Rock Hall • Galena • Betterton • Millington

NORTHEAST | V ER MON T

Iced Over Like surfers hunting the biggest wave, skaters flock to frozen Lake Champlain BY JOEL BANNER BAIRD

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SIMPLY UNPREDICTABLE

dusting of snow. The ice As Lake Champlain thrummed when Dill jabbed continues its freeze, skaters it with his skating pole. find that stretches of Another jab, and his pole previously easily broke clear, smooth through 3 ice have inches of ice. crumpled “We’re not into ridges going out DID YOU KNOW? and “rubble,” any further,” Every year since ice Dill says. Last he told his observations began winter, Dill companions. in the early 1800s, trekked around The ice, as a considerable crumpled usual, was amount of ice has unskateable unpredictable. formed within Lake terrain. A ridge Dill mainChamplain during had formed, tains a blog, the winter months. and some of titled Lake SOURCE: NATIONAL OCEANIC AND ATMOSPHERIC ADMINISTRATION the uplifted ice Ice, a highly slabs glowed organized blue. assemblage of He admired the structure, entries on wind, waves, curthen turned his attention to rents, crystalline structures, a long crack in the surface freeze-thaw cycles, the ice, barely visible under a body’s response to extreme

DIANA HANKS; JOEL BANNER BAIRD (2); GETTY IMAGES

ermont’s Lake Champlain freezes over an average of eight out of every 10 years, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, making its solid surface a rare occurrence. In 2019, the lake was frozen for months; before that, the most recent freeze was 2015. For some, the sporadic wintry scene is beautiful, but to be avoided for fear of crackling ice. However, for many Vermonters and New Yorkers, it’s an opportunity to tramp across the solid surface, to ogle the bleached landscape and to defy the odds of plunging in. “It’s kind of like low-altitude flying,” explains veteran skater and Burlington, Vt., resident Bob Dill. “You reach places you otherwise might never go.” Decades ago, Dill, a septuagenarian, raced ice boats across the lake at more than 60 mph. He skates now, he says, because it’s a better way to admire and learn about the ice. He also knows what it feels like to fall through ice into freezing water. Suitably equipped, he’s prepared to do it again. So are the other 20-or-so diehard “wild-ice” skaters in these parts. Anyone who ventures onto Lake Champlain — a few short steps away from shore or a 30-mile loop around the islands — is “reconciling beauty with risk,” Dill says.

cold and where to find when she’s not out rowgood gear. ing, she skates at a nearby Dan Spada, a lake arena. skater of about 13 years, Nordic skates slow her lives near Tupper Lake, down a little in the winter, N.Y., and logged about but they track better over 300 miles on the lake last rough ice, she says. winter. He refers to Dill Crumpled, late-season as the region’s ice guru ice is even more dangerand credits ous when him with there’s snow, helping according to introduce a Hanks. “You thoughtful can’t see the DID YOU KNOW? strain cracks — it’s Lake Champlain to local a great way typically takes ice-skating to tear up until mid- to late culture. a blade or January or February “This destroy an to freeze over, if it sport is ankle. You does at all. inherently just can’t SOURCE: NATIONAL OCEANIC AND dangerous,” blunder ATMOSPHERIC ADMINISTRATION says Spada. across these At the things.” same time, it’s “magical,” And she swears by he says, describing the her dry suit. sounds of ice sheets as “When you fall in, you they shift: booms, groans float like a cork,” Hanks — sounds he associates says. She’s been in several with sci-fi movie lasers. times, as have most of her Also magical, in co-skaters. “It’s a whole Spada’s eyes, is the way lot of fun if you’re smart experienced skaters move about it, and you go out across ice — moments with other people who are that he shares on his smart,” Hanks adds. YouTube channel, Wild Ice Dill agrees. Skater.

Blue ice lies But he’s troubled by what he sees as a along the widespread lack of curiosity about how ice Colchester behaves. shore on Lake “Hundreds of people came out on the Champlain in ice during the course of the afternoon,” Dill March. writes on the VtNordicskating Google group page. “Nobody I talked to had a clue about if the ice was reasonable or treacherous.” We have a lot to learn from the ice-savvy Nordic cultures, Dill says — both in how to respect ice, and how to get out there and delight in it. — Joel Banner Baird writes for the Burlington (Vt.) Free Press.

THERE ARE NO BOUNDARIES Diana Hanks grew up as a speed skater. “I still like to go as fast as I can,” admits the Burlington resident. In the summer,

Nordic skater Phyl Newbeck enountered this icedraped shoreline on Lake Champlain in January.

SOUTHEAST | M Y TOW N

KARIN SLAUGHTER’S

Atlanta

Although she’s lived in Atlanta for 30 years, Karin Slaughter still does research when writing novels set in the town she loves. What’s the name of that one-way street around the corner? “I have to drive it all out. That’s mostly where I get tripped up — thinking I know stuff I don’t actually know.” While the New York Times bestselling author, whose latest book, The Last Widow, arrived on shelves in August, might not know everything about every Atlanta street, she does know where to go in and around the city for great food, outdoor enjoyment and sweets. — TRACY SCOTT FORSON

BEST

BOOKSTORE

BEST

VINEYARD “(In) Georgia ... we have a burgeoning wine area. We use the muscadine grape. There’s a place called Wolf Mountain Vineyards & Winery in Dahlonega. It was one of the major gold-rush places before California. It’s cool. You can see the history of Dahlonega.“ wolfmountainvineyards.com

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— KARIN SLAUGHTER

revivaldecatur.com

agnesscott.edu/bookstores

BEST

BRUNCH

TOUR

“Duck’s Kitchen in Decatur has got the most amazing brunch ever. It’s on New Street. The menu changes constantly, but everything is always good. ... People stand outside for hours waiting to get in.“

“There’s a Segway tour that I do that I love. ATL-Cruzers offers a remarkable journey through the city. You get to see neighborhoods, including that bridge that’s in the opening shot for The Walking Dead. ... It's amazing, just the history of these places.“

duckskitchen.com

atlcruzers.com

ALISON ROSA; PROVIDED BY THE PUBLISHER; DUCK'S KITCHEN; WOLF MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS & WINERY

“

Revival in Decatur, Ga., has got the best pork chops. The menu seems healthy, but they put bacon and butter on everything. So, it’s your typical Southern restaurant.”

“Charis Books and More on the campus of Agnes Scott College (in Decatur). They have a lot of feminist stuff, and it’s in an old house. You feel like you’re in somebody’s house going through a great library.“

it’s time for a visit with yourselves.

Discover Your Next

Adventure Average Winter Temperature High/Low 63°/53°

GulfShores.com / 877-341-2400

There’s more HOLIDAY FUN in Ridgeland where you can enjoy over 150 restaurants and these boutique shopping districts: · Renaissance + The Township at Colony Park · Northpark Mall + County Line Shops · Old Canton + Lake Harbour · Highway 51 + Trace Station · Bill Waller Craft Center · Old Town District

Levy County Visitors Bureau www.visitnaturecoast.com 1-877-387-5673

SOUTHEAST

Passageways to the Past History and nature abound on Southeast river cruises

BY STACEY ZABLE

XXXXXX

62 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

AMERICAN QUEEN STEAMBOAT COMPANY

iscover the natural beauty and the fascinating history and culture of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s South on all-inclusive river cruise voyages. Travel along the Mississippi River and the Intracoastal Waterway on paddle-wheel or riverboat cruise ships that offer unparalleled views. Plus, experience fine dining, entertainment, museums and animal preservation areas on many of the included excursions.

_Dining room

LANDSCAPES AND LANDMARKS American Queen Steamboat Company’s nine-day Antebellum South voyages traverse the Lower Mississippi between New Orleans and Memphis with multiple stops in Mississippi and Louisiana. It’s one of the company’s favorite itineraries, according to John Waggoner, American Queen Steamboat Company’s chairman and CEO. There’s a feeling of stepping back in time as you board either the American Queen, which accommodates more than 400 guests, or the 166-guest American Duchess paddle-wheel riverboats and explore antebellum monuments and landmarks. “A riverboat’s view of the Mississippi River is filled with both nostalgia and discovery, transporting guests to a time of true Americana,” says Waggoner. “As guests float through living history, they will see sprawling Southern shorelines filled with majestic antebellum mansions, untouched bayous and woodlands and sprawling plantations.” Stops on the itinerary include the river towns of St. Francisville, La., home to more than 140 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places, and Natchez, Miss., which, founded in 1716, is the oldest city on the Mississippi. Explore the South’s largest remaining antebellum mansion on Louisiana’s Nottoway Plantation. uamericanqueensteamboatcompany. com

SOUTHEAST

BEACHES. BATTLEFIELDS. BIOLOGY. American Cruise Lines’ eight-day Historic South and Golden Isles Cruise sails through three states, starting in Charleston, S.C., and ending in Jacksonville, Fla., and is among the many Southern itineraries offered by the company. The 100-passenger Independence or American Star vessels travel along the southeast coastline’s Intracoastal Waterway, comprised of bays, rivers and canals. Historic highlights of the cruise include a visit to

Charleston’s Fort Sumter, where the Civil War began, stories of the antebellum South told by a guide in period dress and a horsedrawn carriage ride in Beaufort, S.C. Guests also explore a National Historic Landmark on Georgia’s Jekyll Island: the 240-acre Millionaire’s Village with magnificent homes and winter cottages. St. Simons Island, Ga., offers 18th-century battlefields, antebellum homes and the chance to pull in some treats onboard a shrimp boat. Stroll along Florida’s Amelia Island and

Independence

Fernandina Beach’s historic streets. Scheduled stops include encounters with dolphins, alligators, sea

turtles and an examination of plant life at various ports along the route. uamericancruiselines.com

SPECIALTY CRUISES

Grand Mariner

COASTAL CRUISE Explore five states during the 12-day Savannah to Baltimore itinerary onboard Blount Small Ship Adventures’ 84-passenger Grande Mariner. An onboard guide highlights the history of port stops throughout Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia and Maryland. “Our small ship cruises past some of the most environmentally rich and protected shorelines along the Intracoastal Waterway,” says Kayla Setters, Blount’s marketing manager. “Passengers enjoy endless panoramas, rare views of coastal living and the ecosystem of marshes, wetlands and bays of this amazing sheltered waterway.” The North Carolina Maritime Museum in Beaufort, N.C., is an included excursion, and there are myriad optional activities, such as historic tours of South Carolina’s Beaufort, Charleston and Georgetown; visits to the USS North Carolina and Bellamy Mansion Museum in Wilmington, N.C.; tours of the Naval Base in Norfolk, Va., and the United States Naval Academy in Annapolis, Md.; an American Revolution Tour in Yorktown, Va., and a tour of Baltimore. ublountsmallshipadventures.com

64 GO ESCAPE | WINTER 2020

uWhether you prefer a crab feast, a wine and food theme, or a music cruise, American Cruise Lines has an itinerary for you. An eight-day culinary voyage on the Lower Mississippi River Cruise from New Orleans to Memphis features port stops in Tennessee, Mississippi and Louisiana and adds cooking demonstrations and a behind-the-scenes tour of the Louisiana Culinary Institute in Baton Rouge to its regular itinerary. Taste such delicious regional dishes as chicken gumbo, barbecue shrimp, Louisiana jumbo lump crab cakes and bourbon pecan pie. uBoth American Cruise Lines and American Queen Steamboat Company offer holiday theme cruises in December. American Queen has a nine-day American Music Holiday trip from Memphis to Clarksville (Nashville). It features special musical performances by the ship’s ensemble and such Southern genres as New Orleans jazz, delta blues, Memphis rock and soul and Nashville’s country music, including a Grand Ole Opry show.

AMERICAN CRUISE LINES; BLOUNT SMALL SHIP ADVENTURES; GETTY IMAGES

Themed voyages cater to your interests

Richmond, founded in 1798, is full of history from the pioneer settlers, to the Civil War and beyond. With such a rich history, and thriving restaurant and retail scene, Richmond has long been a magnet for visitors.

Richmond Visitor Center 531 West Main Street Richmond, Kentucky 40475 FREE GUIDE 1-800-866-3705 www.visitrichmondky.com

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The Other Miami Family-friendly adventures abound in the Magic City BY AMY SINATRA AYRES

hen you think of Miami, toned bodies bathing in the sun’s rays and the glitzy South Beach nightlife are often the images that come to mind. But this tropical city offers plenty to do with kids in tow, too. Families will find educational, cultural and animal adventures to delight all ages. Downtown, you’ll find the Frost Science

new 250,000-square-foot campus in 2017. It includes a state-of-the-art planetarium that features thrilling and educational 3D movies; a three-level indoor-outdoor aquarium where you can learn about South Florida’s ecosystem and even touch a stingray; the MeLab, where kids can jump on an interactive dance floor to learn about the body-mind connection; and a rooftop

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Frost Science Museum

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Museum (frostscience. org), which moved into its

exhibit with interactive solar-powered activities that showcase the power of the sun in Florida. Located just outside downtown is the

Miami Seaquarium (miamiseaquarium.com),

Miami Seaquarium

where the 1960s TV show Flipper was filmed. Kids (and adults) can pose with a parrot on their arm as they arrive, then head inside to visit manatees, seals and more. Trainers perform with dolphins, and there’s the chance to interact with these creatures yourself for an additional fee. Nearby, on the Intracoastal Waterway, is

Jungle Island (jungleisland. com), a theme park with

GREATER MIAMI CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU (4); GETTY IMAGES GETTY IMAGES

Cape Florida Lighthouse

rare twin orangutans, sloths, lemurs and more than 300 colorful birds. About 25 miles southwest of Jungle Island, Zoo Miami (zoomiami.org) is the only subtropical zoo in the continental U.S., and offers kids the chance to hand-feed towering giraffes. Miami Seaquarium is located en route to Key Biscayne, where you can find outdoor family adventures at

Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park.

Venetian Pool in Coral Gables

Tour the historic 1825 Cape Florida Lighthouse and climb to the top (with kids who are at least 42 inches tall) for scenic views. Head to the beach for a swim or rent a quad bike for a family excursion

along the 1.5-mile paved trail or unpaved service roads for a flat and easy ride with views of Biscayne Bay. The Lighthouse Café in the park has Cuban fare and other options as well as scenic outdoor seating. Back in the city, older kids will love the Wynwood

Walls (thewynwoodwalls. com), located on 2nd Avenue between 25th and 26th Streets Northwest. This outdoor museum features graffiti and street art by artists from around the world. Explore Wynwood’s cool restaurants and shops, and finish your visit with Japanese-inspired ice cream at 1-800-Lucky. Every third Sunday of the month, the nearby Miami Design District offers a free family day series that includes lessons, food, face painting, balloon animals and more. Grab lunch or dinner at St. Roch Market Miami or

Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink and ice cream at Madlab Creamery, opened last year by local pastry chef Soraya Kilgore. If you’re ready to escape the heat, head to the Venetian Pool in Coral Gables. Created from a coral rock quarry in 1923, the 820,000-gallon pool is filled with water from an underground spring and aquifer that’s drained, filtered and refilled daily in the spring and summer. Swimmers age 3 and older can explore its caves and waterfalls with their parents. Just make sure to get there early before tickets sell out. While you’re in South >

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IF YOU GO The Miracle Mile in Coral Gables is a half-mile stretch of boutiques, galleries and spas with lots of places to dine and people-watch.

Florida, make a trip to

Everglades National Park,

Miami offers plenty to do with kids in tow. Families will find educational, cultural and animal adventures to delight all ages.

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a World Heritage site and the first national park established to protect an ecosystem. There are some short hikes nearby that highlight the wildlife and the diverse environment of the Everglades. You’re sure to spot alligators and crocodiles, turtles, herons and other birds on the Anhinga Trail, which is 4 miles from the main entrance. Seven miles from the main entrance, the Pineland Trail is less than half a mile roundtrip, looping through a forest that shows off the park’s pines, palmettos and wildflowers. Don’t miss the chance to get into the swampland and photograph some wildlife on a ride at Airboat Rides Miami. Tours depart every 20 to 30 minutes throughout the day. While you’re in the Homestead area, stop for a fresh strawberry milkshake at the Robert Is Here fruit stand or Knaus Berry Farm, which makes mouthwatering cinnamon

rolls that are well worth the wait. Don’t end your trip without visiting the neighborhood of Little Havana to try Cuban food. The landmark Versailles on Calle Ocho offers classic cuisine — but be prepared for a wait. Favorites include the vaca frita (shredded chicken with onions), imperial rice (cooked with saffron and deboned chicken) and yuca fries with cilantro mayonnaise, topped off with tres leches cake for dessert. Versailles’ less formal sister restaurant, La Carreta, offers homestyle Cuban food. Try the ropa veija (shredded beef cooked with onions and Cuban mojo) or boliche (Cubanstyle pot roast stuffed with chorizo). You can indulge in Cuban coffee inside or at the outdoor coffee window at either restaurant. There’s always more to do in Miami than you can squeeze into a few days, so be ready to return for another memory-making vacation of fun in the sun. l

The Mediterraneaninspired Hyatt Regency Coral Gables or Marriott’s Hotel Colonnade Coral Gables, located just off the Miracle Mile, are convenient places to stay.

Hillstone, on the corner of Ponce De Leon and Coral Way on the Miracle Mile, offers a wide variety of lunch and dinner fare, including sushi and burgers. If you like avocado toast and good coffee, you’ll love Threefold Café, owned by a couple who relocated from Australia.

Don’t miss Books & Books, an independent store with selections for everyone, including a robust section for kids and young adults. Stop by to pick up beach reading for the whole family.

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Airboat ride

Home to the Georgia National Fairgrounds, Perry is bustling year-round with rodeos, sports championships, agricultural shows and of course, the annual Georgia National Fair. Yet, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more to Perry than just roller coasters and cotton candy... Come take a ride on the local side and explore all the unique charms that Perry has to offer!

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The Other Orlando Theme parks aren’t all this city has to offer

hen you think of Orlando, Fla., elaborate theme parks, life-size cartoon characters and sprawling suburban areas are often the first images that come to mind. It’s a town where tourism caters to the young and young-at-heart who appreciate family-friendly entertainment and wholesome attractions, right? That’s what drew Marisa Flores Gladden, a Brook-

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lyn, N.Y.-based event planner and self-described “Disney nut” to Orlando, where she visits every year with her husband, Kenneth. When they began their tradition eight years ago, she was psyched. He was skeptical. “I was thinking of things to do for his birthday, so I suggested Disney. He was so against it. He thought it was too kiddie and had zero interest,” Gladden recalls. “I convinced him it would be fun, and now he loves it.”

GETTY IMAGES

BY MATT ALDERTON

PROVIDED BY VISIT ORLANDO

Lake Eola

Their annual trips to Orlando were enjoyed so much, in fact, that they got married there in 2018. However, during wedding planning, they realized that some wedding guests would shy away from theme parks, so they arranged for activities not only at Disney, but also in downtown Orlando. Their ceremony, for instance, took place at the Orlando Museum of Art. “Guests … weren’t expecting to see the other side of Orlando at all and were surprised and delighted

by the museum,” Gladden says. “They weren’t expecting it to be so modern and contemporary. They thought all Orlando had to offer was faux castles and princess-themed venues.” Although there’s nothing wrong with faux castles — even guests who were dubious about Disney ended up loving it, Gladden says — the “other side of Orlando” is a gift few visitors unwrap. Inside: the best good time you never expected to have. Orlando is considered very touristy and devoid of culture in the traditional sense, Gladden explains. “I’m not denying that it’s shaped by giant amusement corporations, but in its own way, it has its own culture.” To experience Orlando the city instead of Orlando the tourist attraction, base your stay downtown — specifically, at the arts-themed Grand Bohemian Hotel (grandbohemianhotel.com). It boasts a private collection of 150 works of art; a rare Imperial Grand Bösendorfer piano that shines during the famous Sunday jazz brunch at The Boheme (theboheme. com), the hotel’s restaurant; a relaxing spa; and a rooftop pool with panoramic city views. Per Gladden’s suggestion, art lovers should check out the nearby Orlando Museum of Art (omart.org), where a sizable collection features works by famed glass artist Dale Chihuly, post-impressionist >

Orlando Museum of Art has been a staple in the region since 1924.

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suggests Caroline Eubanks, author of This Is My South: The Essential Travel Guide to the Southern States. “Wekiva Island is a special place outside of town where you can rent a cabana for drinking and lawn games or rent a paddleboard to explore the river,” says Eubanks, who visits Orlando every year from Atlanta. The island, which charges an entry fee of just $1, also has a restaurant, a bar, canoeing, beach volleyball and a fire pit. “Want to just relax? Adirondack chairs are lined up right along the riverfront boardwalk,” says Guilherme Cunha, tourism director at Orlando North, Seminole County Tourism. “Pull up a seat and watch the world go by, and if it’s a warm day, take a dip in the refreshing river.” Don’t leave Seminole County without beer in your belly. The county seat, Sanford, has a historic downtown with four stops on the Central

Florida Ale Trail painter Louis Dewis, American artist Georgia O’Keeffe and others. Downtown also is home to an impressive potpourri of public art, which you can sample on foot in parking garages, parks and public buildings, including City Hall. The Mennello Museum of American Art (mennellomuseum. org) and the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art (morsemuseum.org) in nearby Winter Park can also scratch your art itch. Located in Orlando’s Lake Formosa neighborhood, the former is known for its outdoor sculpture garden, which features walking paths that merge with the 3-mile Orlando Urban Trail (orlando.gov/parkingtransportation/bike-trails-and-paths). The Morse museum features the world’s largest collection of Tiffany glass. Speaking of Winter Park, its quaint downtown — which feels more European than Floridian thanks to brick streets and charming storefronts — is an ideal destination for shopping, lunching and wine tasting. Check out The Partridge Tree Gift Shop (thepartridgetree.com) for special sundries and souvenirs, Prato (prato-wp.com) for an Italian lunch and The Wine Room (thewineroomonline. com) for a glass of your favorite vintage. Somewhere in between, make time for the Winter Park Scenic Boat Tour (scenicboattours.com), an hourlong guided cruise through the Winter Park Chain of Lakes, connected to one another by a system of Venetian-style canals. Even though it’s land-locked, water is kind of a big deal in Orlando. Downtown, Lake Eola Park (orlando.gov/parks-the-environment/directory/ lake-eola-park) features a popular farmers market, a walking path and pedal-powered swan boats. Or head to Wekiva Island (wekivaisland.com) on the Wekiva River in suburban Seminole County,

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(centralflorida aletrail.com). Cunha recommends

Wop’s Hops Brewing (wopshopsbrewing. com), Sanford’s first microbrewery, and Deviant Wolfe Brewing (deviantwolfe brewing.com), which is known for imaginative tastes like its Sourmanjaro, a sour ale with notes of coffee. Grand Bohemian Hotel Because you’ll need food to soak up the beer, head to Sand Lake Road — Orlando’s “Restaurant Row” — on the other side of town, in Orlando’s affluent Dr. Phillips suburb. Although chain offerings abound, homegrown spots include Slate (slateorlando. com) for wood-fired eats, Chatham’s Place (chathamsplace.com) for farm-to-table fare and Pharmacy (thepharmacyorlando.com) for seasonal cuisine and handcrafted cocktails in chic speakeasy surroundings. Or if it’s early enough (It closes at 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and 3 p.m. on Saturdays.), eat instead at Beefy King (beefyking. com), a local institution that’s been serving rad roast beef sandwiches in Orlando’s trendy Milk District since 1968 — three years before Walt Disney World opened. It’s a true taste of the “real” Orlando. … and it’s delicious. l

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Hanging High Glide over sand dunes in the birthplace of flight

ne by one, my three children soared above the windswept sand dunes, overcome with jubilation as they took to the sky on colorful 30-foot-wide hang gliders. As they experienced flight for themselves, the location’s significance was not lost on us. We were just 4 miles from where the Wright Brothers made their history-changing 12-second flight in December 1903. It’s fitting that visitors can heed the call of the sky in an area so steeped in aviation history — and what more scenic place to experience flight than North Carolina’s Outer Banks, a stretch of barrier islands that fills up each summer with beach-loving families who return to

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these alluring shores year after year. Gliding lessons take place at Jockey’s Ridge State Park in Nags Head, home to the tallest natural sand dunes on the East Coast, reaching 80- to 100-feet tall and offering spectacular views from the Roanoke Sound to the Atlantic Ocean. Consistent winds and soft, sandy hills in every direction make this 427-acre park an ideal place to learn to glide. “It’s the best-kept secret in aviation, to be able to fly these amazingly simple, but fun aircraft,” says Billy Vaughn, veteran gliding instructor and assistant manager for the Hang Gliding Training Center at Kitty Hawk Kites’ Jockey’s Ridge location. “When people come in off the dunes, the number of comments (or) smiles is incredible. It’s beyond rewarding to be able to offer this experi-

ence to visitors.” A three-hour gliding lesson begins with the basics — as in 45 minutes of classroom instruction to get you up in the sky, but also keep you safe when you drift back down to earth. From here, climb the towering dunes for five adrenaline-fueled solo flights on a nonmotorized hang glider that allows you to effortlessly soar from 30 to 100 yards or more. For those who feel uneasy in the moments before takeoff, the best advice — a mantra, they say at Kitty Hawk Kites — is “relax, look ahead.” These three words get a lot of first-timers through that first flight, adds Vaughn. After that rush, four more mesmerizing flights await, and it only gets better as the nerves melt away under the warm sun. Kids as young as 4 can learn to hang glide. Safely >

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BY ERIN GIFFORD

Liftoff

MAP: AMIRA MARTIN; OUTER BANKS VISITORS BUREAU XXXXXXXXXXXX

A solo hang glider takes flight with Kitty Hawk Kitesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Hang gliding school.

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WHILE YOU’RE THERE

Book a spot on a charter with OBX Crabbing. Go out with a real-life crabber. Reel in the crab pots and shake them out of the trap to bring the right-size crabs back to shore. uobxcrabbing.com

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Instructors are as easygoing as they come. They know that most people are gliding for the first time and are a bundle of nerves. They work quickly to gain your trust, boost your confidence and ensure that the experience leaves you with a broad smile. “Part of the trick was learning to trust your instructor and let go,” notes Kristy MacKaben of Cumming, Ga. She took her two school-age children to learn to hang glide on a summer visit to the Outer Banks. Despite being nervous for her kids — who were “off-the-wall ecstatic,” she notes — they loved being airborne and couldn’t wait to fly again. While summer is the most popular time to learn to hang glide in the Outer Banks, lessons are offered year-round. For those eager to take it to the next level, Kitty Hawk Kites can also train you to become a hang gliding pilot. l

The new Wright Brothers National Memorial Visitor Center has handson exhibits and artifacts. Among them, a piece of cloth from the 1903 Wright Flyer. unps.gov/wrbr

Wild horses have roamed the beaches of Corolla for centuries. Today, only 100 remain. Wild Horse Adventure Tours transports guests in off-road vehicles in search of these animals. uwildhorsetour.com

ERIN GIFFORD; OUTER BANKS VISITORS BUREAU (2)

harnessed in, instructors run the manned glider down the dune and let go, allowing little ones to soar on their own. Older children take classes with adults. It’s less hands-on: Instructors still guide you into flight, but you’ve got more latitude to fly — or crash — on your own. “You can really light somebody’s fire here,” adds Wolf Gaidis, a longtime instructor and manager at the Hang Gliding Training Center, noting how special it is to give visitors their first experiences on a hang glider. “You throw them up there and watch them light up. They want nothing more than to remain aloft.” For each dune flight, instructors carry and return the glider to the starting position. Given each one weighs 50 to 75 pounds, it’s a real workout on its own, but “to be able to give first-time gliders a taste of this, it’s indescribable,” adds Vaughn.

Hit the beach after dark with Ghost Crab Quest. Kids scurry across the beach trying to scoop up zig-zagging crustaceans. Collect a few dozen, then set them free. ugcquest.com

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Legendary Links Swing by these popular golfing landmarks BY TODD KELLY

PUTTER BOY Displayed prominently outside the clubhouse at Pinehurst Resort in Pinehurst, N.C., the Putter Boy statue has had many names, including “The Golf Boy” and “The Sundial Boy.” Fashioned by sculptor Lucy Richards in 1912, “The ‘Lad’ represents every visitor who comes to Pinehurst,” says former Pinehurst director of retail operations Stephen Cryan.

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ISLAND GREEN Avoiding water traps is difficult enough when a pond stands between you and the desired hole. That challenge is amped up at the Island Green at TCP Sawgrass in Ponte Vedra Beach, Fla. The trees and bunker that surround the scenic hole that sits on a peninsula require skill and precision to avoid. According to legend, the design for the now-infamous area came about by accident when creators discovered a nearby crater that altered the original landscape plans.

PAYNE STEWART STATUE A statue of golf champion Payne Stewart stands near the 18th hole on course No. 2 at Pinehurst Resort & Country Club in North Carolina. The celebratory pose — with one leg raised and a fist in the air — is the one he struck when he won the U.S. Open in 1999. Tragically, Stewart died that same year in a plane crash. He was 42.

HARBOUR TOWN LIGHTHOUSE Harbour Town Golf Links at the Sea Pines Resort in Hilton Head, S.C., abuts the waters of Hilton Head Harbor, offering scenic views of marinas, boats, sunsets and the 90-foot, red-and-white striped Harbour Town Lighthouse. The tower opened to the public in 1970.

PETER CASEY/USA TODAY SPORTS; JASON GETZ/USA TODAY SPORTS (2); JARED C. TILTON

ne of the great things about the game of golf is the chance to experience firsthand famous courses you have only seen on TV. For many fans, these far-off or exclusive locales may be inaccessible. (We’re looking at you, Scotland!) But for those in the southeast region, several golf landmarks are nearby. Here are 10:

JASON GETZ/USA TODAY SPORTS; REINHOLD MATAY/USA TODAY SPORTS; ROB SCHUMACHER/USA TODAY SPORTS (2); SCOTT HALLERAN; MICHAEL MADRID/USA TODAY SPORTS

THE BEAR TRAP Comprised of holes 15, 16 and 17 at the PGA National (The Champion Course) in Palm Beach Gardens, Fla., this area is named in honor of golfer and course designer Jack “The Golden Bear” Nicklaus, and its moniker acknowledges the challenges it presents, including water hazards and sharp edges. “It’s not about length,” Nicklaus says, advising how to face the legendary holes. “It’s about precision. It’s about guts.”

ARNOLD PALMER STATUE It’s by design that this life-size statue, unveiled at Bay Hill Club and Lodge in Orlando, Fla., in 2017, isn’t behind ropes or fencing. “We had some discussions about where (it should) go,” says Charlie Mechem, a friend of Arnold Palmer, the legendary winner of 62 U.S. PGA Tour championships. “I wanted to have everyone see it whether they were here to play golf or not.”

THE SNAKE PIT For those who dare to take on the notorious final three holes at the Copperhead Course at Innisbrook Resort in Palm Harbor, Fla., a copper-colored statue greets them. It’s a warning about hole No. 16, known as the Moccasin. That’s followed by the Rattler and the 18th hole, the Copperhead. In 2018, the Snake Pit ranked as the third-toughest finishing three holes on the PGA Tour.

MAGNOLIA LANE For decades, Magnolia Lane has served as the gateway to the Augusta National Golf Club in Georgia. More than 50 of the trees line the 330-yard road that leads to the course’s clubhouse. The area was once a plant nursery, and many of the holes are named after trees or shrubs.

AUGUSTA OAK TREE The giant oak tree near the clubhouse at Augusta National Golf Club in Georgia, is a popular gathering spot for golfers and nongolfers alike. The estimated lifespan for this species is 200 to 300 years, although some live much longer. Augusta National is using support cables and lightning protection to help this natural landmark survive.

HOGAN BRIDGE Golfers at Georgia’s Augusta National Golf Club have a literal bridge to cross when they reach the infamous 12th hole. The Hogan Bridge, dedicated to champion golfer Ben Hogan on April 2, 1958, stretches over Rae’s Creek, where submerged golf balls serve as a testament to the difficulty of the course.

MIDWEST | M Y TOW N

BETH MAITLAND’S

Rapid City, S.D. Few people can say that their summer job turned into a decades-long role, but that’s the case for The Young and the Restless recurring actress Beth Maitland, who’s portrayed Traci Abbott on the CBS daytime soap for nearly 40 years. “Every trip to (fictional) Genoa City is like going home for Christmas,” says the Emmy Awardwinner whose real home is Rapid City, S.D. “For a quiet little state with not so many people, South Dakota offers some world-class experiences, history and vistas,” she says. — TRACY SCOTT FORSON

BEST

HOTEL “The historic Hotel Alex Johnson is a gorgeous representation of our local history and has hosted presidents, movie stars and royalty! Charm is everywhere in the details, and a breathtaking lobby begins the experience. The rooftop restaurant has excellent food and a lovely view … and there’s a noisy Irish pub downstairs that’s usually hopping.” alexjohnson.com

“

All summer long, for all kinds of outdoor fun — camping, hiking, outdoor play, wildlife viewing and tourist activities — there is always a trip to Custer State Park.” — BETH MAITLAND

gfp.sd.gov/parks/detail/ custer-state-park

“Rapid City is known as the ‘Gateway to the Black Hills,’ and every trip there must include Mount Rushmore. ... There is nothing like standing on the viewing platform and gazing at those faces. They represent echoes of the past and hope for the future.”

“Spearfish Canyon is a must-see daytrip in the Northern Black Hills, through a deep gorge carved out by Spearfish Creek. Its magnificent cliffs and pines attract nature lovers from all over the world. While in Spearfish, it’s fun to stop at the High Plains Western Heritage Center for an overview of how the area was settled.”

nps.gov/moru

visitspearfish.com

BEST

PARK

BEST PLACE TO

SHOP “For a souvenir, a stop at Landstrom’s Jewelers is always on my list. You can watch artists at work making the signature Black Hills gold jewelry.” trjconcepts.com/categories/585735/landstrom’s

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MIDWEST | W ISCONSIN

WISCONSIN ELKHART LAKE MILWAUKEE

Winter in Wisconsin Charming Elkhart Lake delivers plenty of holiday cheer BY LISA DAVIS

DASHING THROUGH THE SNOW Elkhart Lake’s location in the Kettle Moraine State Forest gives quick and easy access to hundreds of hiking and cross-country ski trails. The Greenbush Recreation Area, also inside the Kettle Moraine State Forest (dnr. wi.gov/topic/parks/name/kmn/trails.html), offers several loops of groomed cross-country ski trails that cut through a hardwood forest and up and down hills of the glacial moraine, including a mile-long lighted trail

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for evening skiing. There are also trails for fat-tire bikers and snowshoers. “For a rugged, beautiful winter hike, I would suggest a segment of the Ice Age National Scenic Trail,” (iceagetrail.org) says Jackie Scharfenberg, a park ranger with the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources. “This trail follows the extent of the glaciers from the last Ice Age throughout Wisconsin.” Visitors can access the initial 30 miles of the 1,000-mile trail just south of Elkhart Lake near Glenbeulah. Both of these destinations are located off the 115mile Kettle Moraine Scenic Drive (dnr.wi.gov/topic/ parks/kmscenicdrive.html) that starts near Elkhart Lake and winds its way through the forest and

MAP: AMIRA MARTIN; ALVIDA GROOM PHOTOGRAPHY

s winter arrives in Wisconsin, so do the possibilities for holiday fun and outdoor adventures. Few places embrace winter better than the tiny town of Elkhart Lake (population around 1,000) located about 60 miles north of Milwaukee and roughly 150 miles from Chicago. From an authentic Scandinavian shop that sells holiday wares to an annual Christkindlemarket and a January festival called Schnee Days (schnee means “snow” in German), things to do in this lakeside town rival those of bigger cities. Here’s a curated guide to making the most of Elkhart Lake’s winter merriment:

Nordic Accents

NORDIC ACCENTS; VINTAGE WINE SHOP

Schnee Days

continues south until it reaches Whitewater Lake. The town’s annual Schnee Days (schneedays. com) celebration is scheduled for Jan. 24-26, 2020. The Schnee Lauf 2-mile run/walk, wine tasting and pub crawl draw visitors and locals out to celebrate snow together. Other favorite activities include a talent show, outdoor kids’ games, kite flying, snowman building, dog-sledding, live music and a chili cook-off.

STOCKING STUFFERS + MORE A stop at Nordic Accents (elkhartlake.com/ businesses/nordic-accents) on Lake Street is a must. Owned by Swedish native Pirkko Jarvensivu since 1989, this charming store specializes in

Vintage Elkhart Lake wine shop

Scandinavian gifts, including clogs, wool socks, jewelry, cookbooks, candles, dinnerware, children’s books, cookies and more. Vintage Elkhart Lake (vintageelkhartlake.com), a premier Midwest wine shop, is owned by awardwinning sommelier Jaclyn Stuart and housed in a 19th-century building. The wine shop includes a tasting bar and stocks more than 300 wines from around the world, plus olive oils, cheeses, craft beers, spirits and gifts. “I always look for great wines at a great value that represent the best of their region, grape or style,” says Stuart. Winter wines for sale include a Boglione Christmas Red, Waldertau Glühwein, Silk & Spice Red Blend from Portugal and a Frisk Prickly Riesling. The shop also hosts winter events, including a holiday >

MIDWEST | W ISCONSIN

Osthoff Resort

wine tasting in late November featuring 50 vino varieties and food from area restaurants. Now in its 22nd year, the Old World Christmas Market (christmasmarketatosthoff.com) at the Osthoff Resort is modeled after a traditional Christkindlesmarkt in Nuremberg, Germany, and features about 200 vendors from around the world selling handcrafted gifts, including German nutcrackers, Czech blown-glass ornaments and Polish pottery. Vendor booths are lined with fresh greenery and little white lights, reminiscent of German villages during the holidays. The German influence also can be found in the market’s food court, which sells apple strudels, warm glühwein (mulled wine), gingerbread cookies, spiced nuts and more. The market is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Dec. 6–15.

Paddock Club pasta

For a small town, Elkhart Lake is not short on good food. For wood-fired pizzas, try the Lake Street Café (lakestreetcafe.com), which is also known for its selection of local beers and a wine list that consistently wins Wine Spectator awards. The Paddock Club (paddockclubelkhartlake.com), located next door to the café and named after a Prohibition-era speakeasy, also has an impressive wine and cocktail list and serves homemade pasta dishes that rotate every three weeks or so. Lola’s on the Lake (lolasonthelake.com) at The Osthoff Resort grows produce on-site for its seasonal dishes and serves a popular Wisconsin cheese sampler. Stay at the Osthoff Resort (osthoff.com), a 240-room property on the shores of Elkhart Lake

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that was originally created in 1886 by Otto and Paulina Osthoff. Indulge at the 20,000-square-foot Aspira Spa that includes a meditation sanctuary, yoga studio, café and pedicure room warmed with a fireplace. The resort’s gardens supply in-season goodies like edible flowers, asparagus and spearmint, as well as elderberry, lavender and chamomile used in its spa treatments. Take a class at the French-inspired L’ecole de la Maison cooking school. During the holidays, the resort offers cookie and ornament-making classes and special events like Breakfast with Santa, ice skating on its outdoor pond, carriage rides with caroling and more. l

OSTHOFF RESORT; THE PADDOCK CLUB

SUPPER & SLUMBER

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MIDWEST | SOU T H DA KOTA

Centennial Lands Visit South Dakotaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s state parks to celebrate 100th anniversary BY AUSTIN LAMMER

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PIERRE

SOUTH DAKOTA

his year marks the 100th anniversary of state parks in South Dakota, home to 13 scattered along the eastern and western borders. These parks attracted more than 2.6 million visitors in 2018, according to the South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks Department. Take your pick, or visit them all. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your guide:

CUSTER

GETTY IMAGES (2); MAP: AMIRA MARTIN

Located in the Southern Black Hills, Custer is South Dakotaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first state park and one of the largest in the U.S. The 71,000-acre sea of ponderosa pines is home to four lakes, nine campgrounds and Black Elk Peak, the highest peak east of the Rocky Mountains at 7,242 feet. In 1914, the park purchased 36 bison from a herd near Pierre. Today, around 1,300 roam the area along with a number of species including pronghorn and burros. Needles Highway and the Wildlife Loop offer views of it all.

Custer State Park

MIDWEST | SOU T H DA KOTA

In addition to its state parks, South Dakota has 43 recreation areas, including Lake Angostura, Bridal Veil Falls, and Lewis and Clark Lake.

Good Earth

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Newton Hills

Oakwood Lakes

BEAR BUTTE Referred to as Mato Paha (Bear Mountain) by the Lakota, this 1,200-foot mountain north of Sturgis is a spiritual ground for Native American tribes throughout the Great Plains. On the 2-mile Summit Trail, hikers may see bundles of colored cloth tied to tree branches — these are tobacco prayer ties, thought to represent prayers in physical form. To the west of Bear Butte lies Bear Butte Lake, a fishing ground with 15 campsites.

FISHER GROVE Named after Frank I. Fisher, Spink County’s first European settler, this park is nestled in a bend along the James River. Camping, fishing, swimming and boating are the main attractions for those who visit.

FORT SISSETON Named after the Sisseton Indian Tribe, this site of an 1864 fort is now a picturesque park that offers interpretive displays of the area’s history as well as plenty of outdoor activities, including birdwatching, fishing and boating.

GOOD EARTH

Bear Butte

GETTY IMAGES; SOUTH DAKOTA GAME, FISH AND PARKS DEPARTMENT (4)

Custer State Park

A hub for tribal trade and seasonal ceremonies between the 14th and 18th centuries, Good Earth State Park today hosts five hiking trails that weave about the banks of the Big Sioux River: dense trees on one side, views of the prairie on the other. The visitor center, constructed two years ago, features exhibits that tell the story of the old trading grounds, dubbed “a little Chicago” by Doug Hofer, former state director of

parks and recreation.

ice-fishing and cross-country skiing.

HARTFORD BEACH Northeastern South Dakota isn’t known for its beach resorts, but those visiting Hartford Beach State Park have a place to stay after swimming, fishing, hiking, boating, disc golfing or sandcastle-building along Big Stone Lake. The discreet beach can be found 15 miles north of Milbank on the Minnesota border.

LAKE HERMAN Directly west of Madison sits Lake Herman State Park, with a 1,350-acre lake used for boating and fishing. The park hosts 70 campsites dispersed around the circumference of the lake. Herman Luce, the park’s namesake, settled there in 1871. He built a cabin from oak logs that sits on the park’s peninsula today.

PALISADES For a short stretch south of Garrettson, Split Rock Creek runs red. Walls of Sioux quartzite — peach-tinted metamorphic rock — sprout from the edges of the river at Palisades National Park. Though it is South Dakota’s second-smallest state park, Palisades has been operating at 99 percent capacity and will claim 257 acres of land downstream to meet the demand for camping, beginning in 2020.

ROY LAKE Encompassing one of the glacial lakes in the northeastern corner of the state is Roy Lake State Park, known best for its fishing. If you’re not a fan of pike and walleye, the park also sports two campgrounds, beaches and places to unpack a picnic.

NEWTON HILLS A 5-mile trail winds through the woodlands of the Newton Hills State Park, which hugs the Big Sioux River 6 miles south of Canton. The park is home to forest animals such as white-tail deer, marmots, wild turkey, and red and gray fox. Cabins are available to visitors year-round. From Oct. 30 to April 1, deer and turkey can be hunted with a bow.

OAKWOOD LAKES Eight lakes surround the campground at Oakwood Lakes State Park. During the warmer months, 136 campsites and six cabins house swimmers, fishers and boaters, as well as paddlers who come for the canoe tour in July. Through the winter, the lakes are a haven for

SICA HOLLOW This stretch of woodlands, neighboring Roy Lake State Park to the east, contains 8 miles of trails to trek either by foot or horseback. Sioux Indians saw the park’s “reddish bogs” as blood and named the area “Sica,” or evil.

UNION GROVE Union Grove State Park is a shaded thicket of trees along Brule Creek, perfect for hiking, riding (by horseback or bicycle), picnicking and birdwatching. Five and a half miles of hiking and biking trails wind about the leafy patch of forest. — Austin Lammers writes for the Sioux Falls (S.D.) Argus Leader

MIDWEST | IOWA

Drink Up in Des Moines Enjoy a vast variety of vino at central Iowa wineries

intner culture in the central part of Iowa has hit its stride in recent decades, with wineries popping up all over the area. Today, there are more than 100 in Iowa, many of them just a short drive from Des Moines. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re great places to relax or hold special events to enjoy delicious, award-winning wines. Program the GPS, select a designated driver and head to these vineyards and wineries:

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SUMMERSET WINERY In operation since 1997, Summerset Winery is the childhood dream of owner Ron Mark. He and his wife have grown the winery and vineyard considerably â&#x20AC;&#x201D; producing about 150,000 bottles per year. Tour the grounds and enjoy a bottle of Frontenac paired with assorted Iowa cheeses. u summersetwine.com

PROVIDED BY THE WINERIES

BY BRIAN TAYLOR CARLSON

MADISON COUNTY WINERY Since 2000, Madison County Winery has offered beer and wine in a relaxed setting. Owners Doug and Cheryl Bakker invite visitors to listen to live music under the pergola or on the patio with a bottle of Gold Chardonnay or Midnight Rain, a soft, semi-dry red blend. Twisted Vine Brewery brews beer on-site as well. u madisoncountywinery. com

TWO SAINTS WINERY & VINEYARD Located south of West Des Moines, this St. Charles winery is a hidden gem that features handmade boutique wines made from Iowa grapes. Stroll through 10 acres of vineyards and the nearby woodlands with a bottle of Trinity, or sit back and enjoy a wine flight. Port-style wines are also made here. u twosaintswinery.com

JASPER WINERY Jasper Winery is located just minutes from downtown Des Moines. Owners Jean and Paul Groben began planting vines in 2000. Since then, their winery has grown to a collection of about 13 different varieties that tasters can pair with cheeses and chocolates. u jasperwinery.com

ANNELISE WINERY Annelise Winery has been in operation since 1997. Owners Heidi and David Klodd have grapevines producing fruit on 11 acres — at the vineyard and at their home nearby. Events can be held at the recently renovated barn on the property. u annelisewinery.com

COVERED BRIDGES WINERY Named for the historical bridges in Madison County, Covered Bridges Winery is owned by two couples, Kevin and Jean Fifo, and Kevin and Rose Boyle. Since the first planting in 2004, Covered Bridges wine has been 100 percent Iowa-made. Kick back on the grounds or in the tasting room and enjoy some of its award-winning wines — the best is “whichever one you like to drink,” according to the owners. u coveredbridgeswinery.com

MIDWEST | OHIO

Apollo 11 command module Columbia

Extraterrestrial Exhibit Apollo 11 moon landing artifacts are on display in Cincinnati BY ANDREA REEVES

t took some maneuvering, but the Apollo 11 command module Columbia (yes, the one that journeyed to the moon) and other historic artifacts have landed at the Cincinnati Museum Center. “This is an incredible opportunity for our region to see this iconic piece of history as we celebrate the 50th anniversary of such a historic moment,” says Elizabeth Pierce, the museum’s

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president and CEO. “We are honored to bring this national treasure to Cincinnati as inspiration to our region for the next giant leap.” Cincinnati is the final location for the Smithsonian’s traveling exhibition Destination Moon: The Apollo 11 Mission, which opened Sept. 28. Previous stops included Houston, St. Louis, Pittsburgh and Seattle. “I think it reminds everyone that this was not an easy thing,” said Mark Armstrong, son of astronaut

Neil Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins

PROVIDED BY THE NATIONAL AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM

Armstrong‘s helmet

and the first man to walk on the moon, Neil Armstrong, at the museum announcement. For tickets and “This was something that was more on the not a foregone conclusion exhibit, visit by any extent. It was hard. It cincymuseum. took drive and persistence org/destination and will, and sacrifice. A lot of moon sacrifice.” Neil Armstrong was an Ohio native who lived much of his post-NASA life in and around Cincinnati. Around 2005, Armstrong donated a moon rock to the museum, Mark Armstrong recalls. “I can’t think of a more appropriate place than the Cincinnati Museum Center for Destination Moon to come,” he says. The exhibition celebrates the 50th anniversary of the historic mission and explores the birth and development of the American space program and space race. On July 24, 1969, Apollo 11 met President John F. Kennedy’s 1961 challenge of “landing a man on the moon and returning him safely to the Earth.” In addition to the Apollo 11 command module Columbia — the only portion of the historic spacecraft to return to Earth after the mission — the exhibit includes more than 20 original Apollo 11-flown objects, models and videos about the legendary journey of Armstrong, Buzz Aldrin and Michael Collins. Destination Moon explores what led the United States to accept this challenge and how the resulting 953,054-mile voyage to the moon and back was accomplished eight years after the program was authorized. It also sheds light on some of the more than 400,000 people employed in NASA programs who worked through 20 missions from 1961 to 1969 culminating with Apollo 11. The exhibition, which marks the first time Columbia has left the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum in Washington, D.C., will eventually become part of a renovated Air and Space Museum. The updated site is scheduled to open in 2022. Although Destination Moon is only at the Cincinnati Museum Center until February, there’s still plenty of Apollo 11 to explore. A permanent exhibit, housed in the museum’s recently opened Neil Armstrong Space Exploration Gallery, displays the astronaut’s inflight jacket worn under his spacesuit and the communications cap worn under his helmet (on loan from the Air and Space Museum). Along with a moon rock, there’s also an exact replica of Armstrong’s spacesuit.

Armstrong‘s gloves — Andrea Reeves writes for the Cincinnati Enquirer.

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ICE-T’S

Chandler, Ariz. When Grammy-winning rap artist Ice-T isn’t needed on the set of NBC’s longrunning drama Law & Order: Special Victims Unit, portraying veteran detective Fin Tutuola, he crosses the country to relax in his Chandler, Ariz., home with wife Coco. “I just go in my room, and I play my Xbox. I take advantage of not moving,” says Ice-T, who appreciates Chandler as a break from the fast-paced and high-priced lifestyle of New York City. He welcomes his in-laws, who live nearby, to the desert home during the months he and his wife are in town. Ice-T, whose birth name is Tracy Marrow, selected the property for the pool where relatives now gather and enjoy the area’s serenity. When he does leave the comfort of his home, he prefers the simple small-town atmosphere over the glitz of Hollywood.

RESTAURANT “We go to Olive Garden a lot. It’s a good Italian restaurant. Chandler doesn’t have five-star establishments. You have to drive all the way into Scottsdale to do all that, and sometimes I just want to eat.” olivegarden.com

“

If you’re in Vegas, you’re in a tourist spot. When you’re in Chandler, that’s where people live. They’re not so excited to see a celebrity. It’s never the extra attention. That’s cool. It’s relaxing.” — ICE-T

visitchandler.com

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BEST PLACE FOR

TARGET PRACTICE

BEST

DATE NIGHT DESTINATION “We’re movie people. There’s the Alamo Drafthouse Cinema on Arizona Road in Chandler. It’s a theater where they serve dinner.” drafthouse.com

“I go to Scottsdale Gun Club with Coco’s dad. We go out there and shoot the guns. I was in the Army, so I’m proficient with a firearm. In Arizona, it’s gun culture. Everybody’s carrying, and it’s a good way to bond with your wife’s father.” scottsdalegunclub. com

GETTY IMAGES; ALAMO DRAFTHOUSE CINEMA; OLIVE GARDEN

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WEST | A R IZONA

Cave? Cone? Caboose? Cop a stay in one of Arizona’s most unusual hotel rooms

hen hitting the road, travelers often lean toward clean, largely generic accommodations offering peace, quiet and Wi-Fi. But for those seeking something out of the ordinary — perhaps a place once familiar to inmates or a suite carved over eons by nature — Arizona has the odd lodging that fits the bill. Here are some of Arizona’s quirkiest hotel rooms:

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THE CABOOSE AND CANYON MOTEL & RV PARK Imagine being on a train that’s been delayed and you don’t care because there’s plenty to do right outside. That’s what it’s like staying at this property in Williams that offers several rail cars long retired from active service. The roomy Pullman cars from the 1950s are divided into three suites; the two cabooses are suites unto themselves. (Note to millennials: Cabooses once rode at the end of freight trains, providing quarters for the crew and excitement for kids who waved as they passed. The bar for entertainment was much lower back then.) Coolest feature: You’re on a train! These cars once traversed a growing America, logging thousands of miles every year. They were equipped with all the latest tech of the day, including wireless radios. Now they have a wireless network. Also, rumors persist that Caboose No. 2 is haunted by the ghost of a conductor. Nearby activities: Downtown Williams is less than 2 miles away. The shops and restaurants reflect the town’s split personality. Some businesses are themed for the railroads that built Williams, while others celebrate its spot along historic Route 66. The smart ones embrace both.

CANYON MOTEL; GRAND CANYON CAVERNS; MARK HENLE/THE (ARIZONA) REPUBLIC

BY SCOTT CRAVEN

HOTEL MONTE VISTA

GRAND CANYON CAVERNS

From the ghost stories about the Phantom Bellboy or the Baby in the Basement, staying at this Flagstaff hotel can be a spiritual experience. However, the afterlife of the party is in Room 305, where a female apparition has been sporadically spotted in a rocking chair for years. Some guests have reported that the chair rocks despite being unoccupied. Others have reported hearing someone knocking from inside the (seemingly) empty closet. Coolest feature: Knowing that while in Room 305, you’re never alone — or so it would seem. Not a believer? Well, there’s cable TV, then. Nearby activities: While downtown Flagstaff teems with activity, head south of the railroad tracks for a restaurantand-retail path less traveled. Start the day with delectable made-from-scratch pastries at Tourist Home Café. After several hours of wandering, drop in for a local brew at Historic Brewing Barrel + Bottle House.

When a young woodcutter stumbled into a hole in 1927, he quickly discovered it was much more than a pit. After determining that the cave had no gold, he found another way to mine it — through tourism. That spirit thrives at Grand Canyon Caverns in Peach Springs, home to Arizona’s deepest, darkest hotel room. Those who take the elevator 220 feet below the surface discover a hotel room mounted on a wooden platform, complete with bed, bathroom and TV (no broadcast or cable but plenty of DVD movies). Coolest feature: The chamber is 200 feet by 400 feet with a 70-foot high ceiling. And in a cave, no one can hear you scream (with delight), unless a tour group happens by. Nearby activities: If you’re lucky enough to have hiking permits to see the Havasupai waterfalls, you’re about 59 miles away from the trailhead. But if you thought the Grand Canyon Caverns were close to Grand Canyon National Park, here’s some bad news: The South Rim is about 127 miles away.

OK STREET JAIL INN

WIGWAM MOTEL

This former iron-bar hotel in Bisbee has been converted into an actual inn. Conveniently located near the foot of Brewery Gulch (and possibly explaining the popularity of its drunk tank back in the day), this narrow, two-story stone structure is perfect for those looking to lock down a little romance. Coolest feature: Some of the original jail bars remain in place, including the heavy iron door at the top of the stairs. They reflect earlier times when there was no wellappointed kitchen, comfy bed or cable TV. Then again, it was a lot less expensive to spend the night at the turn of the 20th century when it was a hoosegow. Nearby activities: The OK Street Jail is in the heart of Bisbee and within walking distance of numerous restaurants, bars and boutiques.

More than a half-century ago, Americans on the move often stopped at this iconic motel along Route 66 in Holbrook. Today, people stop by for one of two reasons: nostalgia, or the insistence of their children who want to stay at that motel from Pixar’s Oscar-nominated film Cars. Yes, the Cozy Cone Motel in the animated movie looks remarkably like the Wigwam, which features 15 concrete tepees arranged in a U-shape. Coolest feature: You’re sleeping in a cone. Its circular floor plan and slanting walls are a bit disconcerting at first, but then rather comforting. Want to annoy your misbehaving kids? Tell them to go stand in the corner. Nearby activities: The southern entrance of Petrified Forest National Park is 19 miles away. Trails thread among tree trunks millions of years old, turned to stone.

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa

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RYAN HEFFERNAN

WEST | N EW ME X ICO

Take the Plunge New Mexico’s natural mineral spas and pools offer relaxation BY JENNIFER BARGER

f you think arsenic and pinyon trees,” says Blake is only something Gordon, a Santa Fe therapist that Agatha Christie and frequent resort guest. villains used to poison their victims in dusty SEE FOR YOURSELF libraries, you haven’t Hot springs have burst out soaked in the balmy pools at of the ground for thousands New Mexico’s Caliente Mineral of years in what’s now Springs Resort and Spa (open New Mexico, powered by daily for soaks; $25 to $45 per geothermal energy. Native person), where arsenic, lithium Americans believed they and other minerals infuse were a gift from the gods, the water, reputedly relieving and warring tribes even laid ailments from arthritis to down their weapons to gather depression. (And no, you in the pools. When Spanish shouldn’t gulp conquistadors that H20, but came to these high bathing in it is deserts in the 1500s, perfectly safe.) one raved that “the On a recent greatest treasure that road trip across I found these strange the Land of people to possess are Enchantment, hot springs which my husband, burst out at the foot Callan, and I of a mountain.” And, were looking presumably after to soothe our discarding their — BLAKE GORDON hiking-sore heavy armor, they quads and cityplonked in, too. stressed minds. We checked Today, modern travelers can into the resort in Ojo Caliente, test the 100-plus degree waters about 50 miles north of Santa at plush resorts like Caliente, Fe, and headed toward an simple mountain spas, historic adobe cottage, plopping in 19th-century bathhouses or and out of its multiple on-site all-natural springs. The last pools during our weekend stay. one combines two things to One day, we slipped into love about New Mexico: hiking the gooey, dirty-but-fun Mud and soaking, because you Pool, coating our bods with generally have to trek a bit into clay before baking ourselves the wilderness (from a few in the sun (and then rinsing). hundred yards to a few miles) “It’s just so physically relaxing to reach the naturally formed sitting in a tub with views of pools. But the name also hints all these orangey-red hills at the fact that, in many cases,

There’s just something magical about the waters.”

people go au naturel in the rock-framed soaking holes.

GOING NATURAL On the way to our next plunge town, tiny Jemez Springs, Callan and I try the natural route at Spence Hot Springs, on the outskirts of the city. We knew enough to wear bathing suits under our hiking clothes for the brisk mile-long climb amid scrubby pines to a trio of boulder-ringed pools. Neck deep on a chilly day, it felt like tepid bathwater, not a steamy sauna. “There isn’t a lot of water in New Mexico. It’s a dry place, so soaks feel especially luxurious in the wild,” says Adam Tabet, an Albuquerque resident and frequenter of wild spas. “The farther you get from the road, the more peaceful they are. You can even cross-country ski to a few in the winter.”

GO BACK IN TIME Dip in a bit more comfort in nearby Jemez (HAH-mez) Springs. In the shadow of rust-colored mountains, it emerged as a spa town in the 19th-century when, legend says, a geyser erupted, alerting locals to the hot springs beneath the red earth. Today, tin-roofed houses and a simple adobe church from the early 20th century keep company with two commercial hot springs spas. The hippie-cool outdoor >

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Blackstone Hotsprings

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TV game show. But its vintage motor court inns, bathhouses and cottages date as far back as the 1920s when vacationers came to do a 21-day soak reputed to cure all ills. That scene still bubbles here with several commercial hot springs in a range of settings; most offer drop-in rates by the half-hour or hour, and many have lodgings, too. Under a kitschy vintage sign that reads “Water Hole #1,” the circa-1927 Indian Springs (baths from $5 a person) holds gravelbottom indoor baths, and Riverbend Hot Springs (soaks $12 to $30) stars outdoor riverside basins. Fancier choices include Blackstone Hotsprings (retro TV-themed guest rooms with private soaking tubs) and Sierra Grande (private soaks with spa treatments complimentary for hotel guests) — owned by Ted Turner — which features in-room hot springs for some guests at the Southwest-chic locale. Nearby hiking trails and boat rentals at Elephant Butte State Park can turn a visit into a wellness weekend.

Jemez Hot Springs

All in all, the state’s hot springs culture proves a wet, and somewhat wild, chance to unwind. “There’s just something magical about the waters,” says Gordon. l

ERIC SWANSON; JAMES MCCUE

Jemez Hot Springs (soaks from $25 to $75) offers a quartet of 100- to 104-degree pools, including the jumbo Reflecting Pool with views of the mesa; and the steamy Meditation Pool, where you can hear the Jemez River burble by. And the oldest structure in town, the 1870s Jemez Springs Bath House (soaks $15 to $20) provides massages and private rooms with squared-off, antique cement bathtubs. “Those tubs have been there forever, and I like to think about how many people have soaked in them before me,” says Jemez Springs Mayor Roger Sweet. “All these people coming in with an intention to relax, heal themselves or just get warm.” In the southern part of the state, Truth or Consequences is another throwback spa town rich in hot springs, in this case, fed by the Rio Grande River. Backdropped by the Black Range Mountains and adjacent to the rugged Gila Wilderness, T-or-C (as the locals call it) got its name from a 1950’s publicity stunt surrounding a

FIND YOURSELF IN A CITY THAT NEVER LOST ITS WAY. In Santa Fe, history isn’t just part of the past. It’s still alive, well, and surrounding your every step. It’s just one of the things that makes The City Different, but there’s still so much more waiting to be uncovered. Uncover your different at SantaFe.org

WEST | DEN V ER

Doing the Most in Denver Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plenty to see, do and learn in the Mile High City BY CHRISTINE LOOMIS

Red Rocks Park and Amphitheatre

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enver is not short on ways to entertain, indulge and intrigue you. There are multiple art, history and science museums or centers with programs for all ages. There’s a zoo, a theme park and miles of bike paths, too. Whether you’re a fan of baseball, football, basketball, hockey, soccer, rugby or lacrosse, there’s a team to root for and a game to watch almost any time of year. Denver also has opportunities for the consummate or casual shopper, not to mention dining options galore and some of the best craft breweries in the nation. These destinations make the Mile High City very hot — and very cool:

RED ROCKS PARK AND AMPHITHEATRE

GETTY IMAGES: STEVE CRECELIUS/DENVER METRO CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU

Denver Union Station

If you haven’t visited Red Rocks, you haven’t experienced the best of Denver. It’s called the most acoustically perfect natural amphitheater on the planet, but it’s not just the exceptional music played here that makes Red Rocks so special. Dinosaurs once roamed this geologically compelling landscape. Sitting among the towering sandstone formations as the sky deepens to inky purple, watching the sun dip below the horizon as stars crowd

the sky above, with the bright lights of Denver twinkling on below, is an experience found nowhere else on Earth. And Red Rocks offers more than just music: Stop by for a film series, yoga, hiking trails and more.

DENVER UNION STATION Why should a train station be on Denver’s top attractions list? Simply put, it’s more than a station. Yes, travelers can catch Amtrak trains or public transportation at Union Station, but

this centerpiece of the city’s Lower Downtown, or LoDo, neighborhood is also the rebirth of Denver history. The gorgeous Beaux Arts building has been meticulously renovated and reopened with retail shops, restaurants from top local chefs, two bars and a fabulous boutique hotel. It also showcases Colorado artists. It’s a place to gather before or after a baseball game — perhaps at Terminal Bar, located where passengers once bought train tickets. The pub now serves more than 30 Colorado craft beers. The Crawford Hotel offers tours of Union Station on Fridays (advance reservations required), and the station is a setting for holiday and seasonal events, including author readings at the outpost of Denver's beloved Tattered Cover bookstore.

DENVER ART MUSEUM

Denver Art Museum

Denver Art Museum is highly regarded for its collection of Native American art, which includes more than 16,000 pieces from more than 100 tribes across the country. The >

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COORS FIELD If you’ve got baseball in your blood, make a pilgrimage to Coors Field, a 76-acre ballpark open since 1995 in the city’s LoDo neighborhood, at the corner of Blake and 20th streets. It’s one more place to find local craft brews and food and a fine way to enjoy Denver’s warm days and cool evenings. By the way, if you’re in row 20 of the upper deck, you’ll find yourself in a purple seat, indicating that you’re exactly a mile above sea level. Modestly priced tours are offered year-round; call ahead to confirm.

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Coors Field

HISTORY COLORADO CENTER Replacing the Colorado History Museum, Denver in 2012 welcomed the Smithsonian-affiliated History Colorado Center into a LEED-certified building in the Golden Triangle Museum District. The new space gave the state’s historical society the opportunity to start from scratch, creating new ways to interpret Colorado history. The exhibits highlight the courage, persistence, triumphs, tragedies and character of those who first called Colorado home, including Native Americans. Exhibits offer interactive and digital experiences, such as a virtual look at sailing off Steamboat’s 1915 ski jump, life in a Japanese relocation center during World War II and explorations of life for Colorado’s early residents, including pioneers and miners.

DENVER ZOO Denver Zoo’s conservation efforts, some 600 projects here and in the wild, are impressive. Supporting the zoo helps fund its vision and mission to “appreciate, respect and conserve animals and their habitats globally,” and you can do it while enjoying a day with friends, family and an assortment of cool creatures. In addition to strolling past bears, birds, big cats, hyenas, monkeys and more, you can get up close with zoo residents via behind-the-scenes tours and experiences. Depending on the season, there are meet-and-greets with rhinos, hippos and Komodo dragons; encounters with penguins, elephants and great apes; and a backstage experience offering access to zookeepers and animals.

Denver Zoo

ELITCH GARDENS THEME & WATER PARK With rides named Mind Eraser and Brain Drain, it’s clear that Elitch Gardens is a thrillseeker’s paradise, and there’s a little something for everyone. Twister II, the popular 10-story wooden coaster, perfectly evokes the park’s old-school/new-thrill vibe. A portion of the grounds is also devoted to a summer water park, which features about a dozen attractions including high-speed slides and drops, lagoons and wave pools. l

JUSTIN EDMONDS; GETTY IMAGES

seven-story contemporary building also houses impressive displays of pre-Columbian and Central American art and textiles, a fascinating Asian collection, and a fine assortment of modern American and European paintings. The Architecture, Design and Graphics galleries are notable as well, as is the Western Art collection. In 2006, the Frederic C. Hamilton Building, a wondrous structure of steel and glass designed by renowned architect Daniel Libeskind, opened its doors across the street from the original building. Libeskind’s deeply angled edifice dramatically increased the museum’s gallery and education space while redefining the Denver skyline and the way in which art can be exhibited.

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Resorts of the Rockies These ski locales are deemed the best in the West

CARL FREY/WINTER PARK RESORT

hen temperatures begin to cool, ski areas in the West open up for their winter season. USA TODAY’s 10Best asked its readers to rank the Rocky Mountain ski resorts that are the crème de la crème. From 20 nominees, here are the top six:

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ALTA SKI AREA Utah With a 2,020-foot vertical drop, Alta is famous for its powder-covered expert slopes, but there’s plenty of terrain for beginners and intermediates as well — 2,200 skiable acres and more than 116 named runs. Snowboarding isn’t allowed here, so if you’re going to enjoy all Alta has to offer, you’ll have to do so on skis.

ualta.com

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WINTER PARK RESORT

COPPER MOUNTAIN

Colorado

The 3,081 acres of terrain at Winter Park are divided into seven distinct territories — glade skiing in Eagle Wind, bowls in Parsenn Bowl, jumps and jibs in Terrain Park, steeps and deeps in Cirque, the bumps of Mary Jane, black diamonds of Winter Park and the powder stashes of Vasquez Ridge. Skiers and riders have 166 named trails to choose from, accessed by 25 lifts.

Copper Mountain offers 140 trails serviced by 24 lifts covering 2,490 acres of skiable terrain. The parks and pipes at Copper Mountain put their focus on progression, allowing newbie freestylers to move from easy features to larger, more difficult ones. March is typically the snowiest month — perfect for some spring skiing.

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DEER VALLEY Utah Deer Valley Resort in Park City features 2,026 ski-only acres spread across six different areas. With 100 named runs serviced by 21 lifts, Deer Valley appeals to laid-back skiers who like a hassle-free experience with plenty of wellgroomed slopes to choose from. More than two-thirds of Deer Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s terrain is rated for beginner or intermediate skiers, making it a great choice for families and newbies.

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TAOS SKI VALLEY New Mexico Ski-only until 2008, Taos Ski Valley in northern New Mexico now attracts both skiers and riders to its 1,294 acres of challenging terrain. The resort receives more than 300 inches of dry snowfall annually, paired with 300-plus days of Southwest sunshine, making Taos a paradise of powder. The ski school ranks among the best in the nation.

uskitaos.com

TELLURIDE SKI RESORT Once Coloradoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hidden gem, the secret is out about Telluride Ski Resort, where 18 lifts service more than 2,000 acres of terrain and 148 trails with a good variety of difficulty levels. A 3,790foot lift-serviced vertical drop means there are plenty of steeps, yet beginners and intermediates have lots of long groomers to enjoy.

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GETTY IMAGES

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The Grand Canyon Turns 100 Natural Wonder of the World is truly a national treasure BY LISA DAVIS

since 1979 for being “the most spectacular gorge in the world.” It’s such accolades and the canyon’s visually powerful landscapes, including templelike buttes and multihued topography, that attract approximately 6 million domestic and international visitors each year, many with cameras in hand ready to photograph the national park’s scenic

treasures, including plateaus, forests, caves, wildlife and one of America’s great whitewater rivers, the Colorado River, which flows along the canyon’s floor. To see just a glimpse of what the canyon has to offer, take the Bright Angel Trail on the South Rim, which drops into the canyon right from Grand Canyon Village and includes a stop at the >

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nly one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World resides in North America, the Grand Canyon (nps.gov/grca), which in 2019 toasts 10 decades as a bucket-list travel destination. The canyon has also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site

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Celebrate! Special programs and events mark the Grand Canyonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s centennial.

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Grand Canyon Railway

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While 100 years may take their toll on most, the Grand Canyon only seems to get better, offering more activities to attract visitors. Many of the 100th anniversary events have passed, but it’s not too late to join the celebration. Here’s what’s coming up: Native American Heritage Month is marked each November. The Native American

Heritage Celebration (nps.gov/ grca) is Nov. 9 and 10 at the park’s South Rim. Stop by the visitor center in the morning and meet with Native American silversmiths, weavers, carvers and potters. There’s also a special evening program with Navajo music and lectures about the Hopi and Apache cultures. Register for the Grand Canyon Half Marathon in Kaibab National Forest on Nov. 2. The path does not enter the canyon, but participants with National Park Service passes can easily access the park from the race route. The 2019 Grand Canyon Celebration of Art at the park’s Kolb Studio (on the South Rim) is on display through Jan. 21, 2020, and features more than 25 artists from around the country who paint the Grand Canyon’s shifting light and shadows, land forms and vast landscapes. l

Native American tent

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Indian Gardens, a lush ecosystem with cottonwood trees, grasses and a variety of wildlife. Or take the shuttle bus from the village to another hiker favorite, the 7-mile South Kaibab Trailhead, which leads down to the Colorado River. Hiking, camping, canoeing, biking and other outdoor activities have made the Grand Canyon a popular travel destination for a century, but there are newer offerings, too. In 2019, the park was designated as an International Dark Sky Park. For stargazing this winter or spring, stop by the El Tovar Hotel, Yavapai Point or any overlook on Desert View Drive to enjoy the sunset and watch millions of stars shine. Catch sparkling-clear views of the Milky Way at Mather Point and Yavapai Point. The Grand Canyon holds its annual Star Party events in June, but visiting in the winter and spring promises smaller crowds, shorter lines and easier parking. The low-hanging sun in the colder months projects stunning shadows inside the canyon, and winter usually brings a dusting of white snow that is a sharp contrast to the layers of red-hued rocks.

BY THE NUMBERS Not all parks are created equal, and the Grand Canyon stands out for many reasons. It is among the most recognizable landmarks on the planet, and it’s large enough to hold countless facts, figures and historical details you probably never knew. As the National Park Service celebrates the tourist attraction’s centennial during 2019, here are 10 things you should know about Arizona’s natural wonder: uIn 1926, seven years after the Grand Canyon became a national park, it had 37,745 visitors. In 2017, the latest year for which stats are available, the park had 6.2 million visitors. uThe Grand Canyon is 277 miles long and 18 miles wide at its widest point. At 1.2 million acres (1,902 square miles), it is the 11th-largest national park in the United States. uThe park is larger than Rhode island (1,034 square miles). uBecause of its remote location, the Grand Canyon’s North Rim sees just 500,000 visitors a year. uThe oldest rocks are 1.8 billion years old, predating dinosaurs. The canyon itself is roughly 6 million years old. Mule pack train

uThere are eight layers of exposed rock at the Grand Canyon. uThe canyon boasts about 91 species of mammals, 447 species of birds, 58 species of reptiles and 18 species of fish (five of them native). uBotanists have counted 1,750 plant species growing in the park. uThe temperature of the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon averages a chilly 50 degrees. uEleven indigenous tribes are traditionally associated with the Grand Canyon, including the Hualapai, Havasupai, Hopi and Navajo.

Havasu Falls

— Scott Craven and Melissa Yeager

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TAMERA MOWRY-HOUSLEY’S

Napa Valley, Calif. Fans of Sister, Sister star and The Real co-host Tamera Mowry-Housley can sneak a peek at her personal life in her new YouTube series The Housley Life. There’s no telling where the mother of two, who’s lived in Napa for eight years, will take viewers, but they’re likely to get a taste of Napa. “I absolutely love where we live. When you want to go to the water, the beach, Lake Tahoe for snow ... everything is close.” With her family’s Housley winery (housleynapavalley. com) to give her a real sense of the land, Mowry-Housley has insider knowledge of the best spots in Napa. — TRACY SCOTT FORSON

FESTIVAL “Bottlerock is awesome. ... The music surrounded by amazing food and wine is a good time.“ bottlerocknapavalley.com

BEST

COFFEE SHOP “Molinari Caffè has become more like home. This is a place you go every single morning. I love it because they have these deviled eggs — the owner’s mom’s recipe.“ molinaricaffe.com

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“

The Meritage (spa) is very private. It’s in a cave. You can get anything — steam room, facials, manipedi. I went there whenever I needed to get away after I had my daughter, Ariah. It was a beautiful retreat." — TAMERA MOWRY-HOUSLEY

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WINERY “If you want a gorgeous view, try Silverado Winery on the Silverado Trail. I had my wedding rehearsal dinner there. It’s just beautiful, overlooking Napa. It doesn’t matter what time of year — it is stunning.“ silverado vineyards.com

BEST

DATE NIGHT “I love Meadowood (hotel) in St. Helena. It is amazing. ... You have this gorgeous view of the landscaping, the vineyards, the trees. You feel like you’re out of the country, but you’re not.“ meadowood.com

BEST PLACE TO

TAKE OUT-OF-TOWNERS “When I have a guest or friend come in, I take them to Black Stallion Winery. They have amazing cottages that you can stay in, and their wines are solid. It’s beautiful grounds.“ blackstallionwinery.com

ASHLEY BURNS PHOTOGRAPHY; PROVIDED BY MEADOWOOD NAPA VALLEY; NICOLE MARINO/BIGSHOT

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For tour information and advanced tickets, visit neonmuseum. org.

Liberace sign

City Lights A Las Vegas history lesson and picture-perfect photos all in one spot BY DAWN GILBERTSON AND JEFFERSON GRAHAM

THE NEON MUSEUM

The East Isle of the Neon Museum

ou could breeze through the outdoor Neon Museum in under 30 minutes, snapping a few photos of vintage Vegas signs to post on Instagram before returning to the action on nearby Fremont Street or the Las Vegas Strip. But then you wouldn’t learn about Liberace’s dry cleaner (Steiner Cleaners), the city’s first racially integrated hotel casino (the short-lived Moulin Rouge) or why the Golden Nugget casino featured the year 1905 on its glittery facade instead of 1946, the year it opened. The Las Vegas history lesson comes only with a guided tour of the downtown museum, a boneyard filled with 250 neon

signs from Vegas’ past, 17 of them restored and still glowing. Along with the can’t-miss bright-blue happy-shirt sign from Steiner, the hot-pink Liberace sign from the defunct Liberace Museum and giant nugget from the Golden Nugget casino, visitors will find signs from closed or renovated casinos and hotels. The giant skull from Treasure Island’s family-friendly pirate show days is there, and so is the genie’s lamp from Aladdin Hotel and Casino. There are signs from roadside motels and a mini-mart that beckoned hungover travelers headed back to California with free aspirin and “tender sympathy.” The vintage signs are scattered on both sides of a circular dirt path, stacked against each other like items at a yard sale. Visit >

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VIVA LAS VEGAS Moonshine and zip lines are among new things to see and do

more than once to see signs you may have missed on your first trip, especially if you dip into the museum’s nooks and crannies. In addition to Las Vegas trivia, the guide on our one-hour night tour taught us the chemistry of neon and about the notorious gambler, casino owner and criminal Benny Binion of Binion’s Horseshoe, who Vegas visitors have to thank for replacing sawdust with carpeting on casino floors. Our guide gave us a tip for dating signs: Those built before 1970 have spikes or ladders, which workers used to climb eight to 10 stories to change the bulbs. Dawn Merritt, vice president and chief marketing officer for the Neon Museum, says many resorts on the Strip have moved to LED lighting “because it’s more economical,” but she insists neon in Vegas “is never going away. The neon glow really speaks to people.” l

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COVERT COCKTAILS Enter the green unmarked side door outside at The Mob Museum, and you’ll find a combination speakeasy, distillery and Prohibition exhibit called The Underground. The attraction, in the basement of the museum, is a great stop on its own or after a tour of the exhibits. Tickets to the museum include admission to The Underground, or enter free through the side entrance during the day with the weekly password posted on Instagram (@mobmuseum_underground). uthemobmuseum.org/basement

VEGAS VITTLES Block 16 is the latest addition to the chic Cosmopolitan hotel, known for its signature crystal chandelier. The collection of food counters features niche restaurants beloved around the country. Block 16 is tiny and easily overlooked with the arrival of Eataly, the grand new Italian food hall that opened in December at Park MGM hotel, but it is a great addition to the Las Vegas food scene and Cosmopolitan’s already stellar restaurant lineup. ucosmopolitanlasvegas.com/block16

THE NEON MUSEUM; GETTY IMAGES; FLY LINQ ZIPLINE; CHRIS WESSLING/THE MOB MUSEUM; DISTRICT: DONUTS. SLIDERS. BREW.

Spire from the Stardust Resort and Casino

HIGH RIDER The first decision you have to make at Las Vegas’ newest zip line is a big one: How to fly. The FLY LINQ Zipline offers guests the option to fly backward, forward, seated or superhero style. The 35-second ride travels 12 stories above the bustling LINQ Promenade, past Brooklyn Bowl and Gordon Ramsay Fish & Chips toward the towering High Roller Observation Wheel. It’s a short, fairly leisurely ride, but you can leave saying you rode the first zip line on the Strip. ucaesars.com/linq/fly-linq

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GETTY IMAGES

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Journey to the Napali Coast At the end of the road in Kauai lies a hidden slice of paradise BY BRIAN BARTH

ollywood loves Kauai’s Napali Coast. The scenery is instantly recognizable to moviegoers as an iconic, often-filmed paradise: hanging valleys plunging into cerulean Pacific waters, pristine beaches framed by waterfalls, jungle vegetation so resplendent that the eyes bulge. Remember that awe-inspiring sequence in Jurassic Park when the helicopter first soars over the fictional Isla Nublar? That’s the Napali Coast. In Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides, Jack Sparrow’s quest for the fountain of youth takes him through a massive stone arch >

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beneath a stunning waterfall. Continuing to the trail’s end is an overnight wilderness experience suitable only for those prepared to be self-sufficient with a tent, food, water purifier and the clothing required for a strenuous hike in steamy tropical conditions (not to mention the required endurance). To keep the crowds under control and preserve the serene ambiance, the state requires advance registration for visitors. “This is an extremely challenging and potentially dangerous hike,” says Felsen, warning about slippery slopes along the edges of thousand-foot cliffs. But the rewards for those who make the journey all the way to Kalalau Valley are incomparable. Pods of dolphins, whales and myriad other sea life mosey past the mile-long white sand beach daily. Shower off the salt and sand at the waterfall gracing one end of the beach and head into the valley above, where in addition to epic swimming holes and more waterfalls, you’ll see stone terraces where native Hawaiians once grew taro, a staple root crop, with an elaborate gravity-fed irrigation system. The taro is long gone, but wild mango, guava and other tropical fruit trees abound. Back at your beachside campsite, be prepared to take in a world-famous sunset. “Watching the sun go into the ocean is amazing, but then you turn around and the pali are just glowing in the reflection,” says Felsen. “Somehow there’s almost always a rainbow over the valley as the sun goes down.” l

Hiking the Kalalau Trail

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Blue Dolphin Charters scuba tours

EXPLORE NAPALI The Kalalau Trail is as famous for its beauty as it is for its rugged difficulty (read: mud and blisters). If roughing it is not your thing, perhaps taking in a Napali Coast sunset from a kayak (napalikayak. com) — or while sipping a Mai Tai on the deck of a luxury catamaran (bluedolphinkauai.com) — is more your taste. You can even charter a helicopter for a tour of Napali Coast film sites, including a touch-down at the remote 400-foot waterfall where Laura Dern and crew landed in Jurassic Park (islandhelicopters.com). Several outfitters offer scuba diving and snorkeling adventures, as well as “sea raft” excursions — small inflatable boats that allow you to travel close along the rocky shore and explore the numerous sea caves accessible only by water (napaliriders.com). To learn more about the human history of the Napali coast, take a tour to Nu‘alolo Kai, the site of an ancient fishing village that archaeologists are actively working to restore (napali.com). “The views are just … you’re never going to see anything like it,” says Christina Kuechenmeister of Blue Dolphin Charters. “It’s kind of like the Grand Canyon of Hawaii.” Blue Dolphin offers a variety of tours on its 65-foot power-sailing catamarans, including a dinner cruise with a sparkling wine toast at sunset and morning snorkeling excursions. “Dolphins guaranteed!” says Kuechenmeister. — Brian Barth

GETTY IMAGES; BLUE DOLPHIN CHARTERS

at Honopu Beach, the Napali Coast setting that also served as Skull Island in the ’70s remake of King Kong. Part of the Napali Coast’s mystique is its inaccessibility. After arriving at the tiny airport in Lihue, you’ll travel about an hour to the end of the road on the volcanic island’s north shore, where pali (cliffs, in Hawaiian) rise thousands of feet from the sea, and you’ll see for yourself why extending the island’s network of highways and resorts past this point is a laughable thought. It’s “a place as beautiful as it is remote,” says the narrator’s voice in the trailer for the 2009 thriller A Perfect Getaway, in which hikers traverse this epic coastline. Tour operators are available to take you by kayak, catamaran, sea raft, helicopter or Cessna to see the island. Or you can explore the jungle, waterfalls and beaches as native Hawaiians once did — via the Kalalau Trail, a narrow footpath that traces the cliffsides from the road’s end to the massive white sand beach at Kalalau Valley, the site of an ancient Polynesian settlement that National Geographic has hailed as a “Garden of Eden.” The 11-mile trek (each way) is considered one of the most stunning hikes in the world. “Hiking the Kalalau Trail will change your life,” says Jeremiah Felsen, who runs Kauai Hiking Tours. “People come back with an ecstatic glow.” Day hikers typically traverse just the first 2 miles to Hanakapi’ai Beach, where you can clamber up a side trail to bathe

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PACIFIC | OR EG ON

New Year’s Eve bonfire with Wanderlust Tours

Oregon for Earth Lovers Travel in the Beaver State is environmentally friendly fun

eavers might not be the first things that come to mind when one thinks of Oregon. But maybe they should be. The state animal since 1969, they put Oregon on the map more than 200 years ago when hunters and trappers arrived to cash in on the lucrative fur trade. It's been “The Beaver State” ever since. It’s not just their historical importance that makes beavers beloved in Oregon, however. It’s also their environmental

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aptitude: When they build dams, beavers spawn vital wetlands that support wildlife and vegetation, replenish the water table, reduce erosion and eliminate pollution — all of which can mitigate the effects of climate change. That makes the American beaver an ideal mascot for Oregonians, whose appetite for environmentalism is as synonymous with Oregon as skiing is with Colorado and oranges with Florida. “When people experience Oregon and see the grandeur of our scenic settings ... they understand why we care so much

WANDERLUST TOURS

BY MATT ALDERTON

Burgerville

Cooper Mountain Vineyards

Pedal bike tour

125 bike-share stations No trip to Portland is across the city. complete without a burger Green hotels and restaufrom Burgerville (burger ville.com) — a regional rants are the rule, not the exception. A favorite is The fast-food chain that serves Nines Hotel (thenines.com), fresh, local ingredients, which recycles 80 percent recycles its cooking oil of its waste, is lit entirely into biodiesel and offsets with energy-efficient LEDs its electricity use with and has energy-saving renewable energy credits — smart thermostats and and a beer from Hopworks Urban Brewery dual-flush toilets in all of (hopworksbeer. com), a its guest rooms. It also has a water- and rooftop garden energy-efficient with beehives, brewery. an on-site If you prefer mushroom wine to beer, garden and a retreat farther subterranean into the Wilfood lab where lamette Valley, aquaponic, home to scads aeroponic and of sustainable hydroponic wineries that farms supply practice organic homegrown and biodynamic ingredients farming. In for the hotel’s Beaverton, SOURCE: BOOKING.COM signature Cooper Mountain Vineyards restaurant, Urban Farmer (urban (coopermountainwine.com), farmerportland.com). This for example, hosts a weekly farm-to-table steakhouse’s Biodynamic Tasting & Tour commitment to sustainthat showcases sustainable ability is so thorough viticulture. Soter Vineyards that even the candles are (sotervineyards.com) in eco-friendly, rendered from Carlton likewise offers a beef fat. culinary Provisions >

CHERYL JUETTEN; BURGERVILLE; GETTY IMAGES; TRAVEL PORTLAND

72%

about the environment,” says Linea Gagliano, director of communications for Travel Oregon, the state’s tourism agency. “Part of the Oregonian ethos is our love for the outdoors. We like to be outside, and we want to make sure the outdoors is something people can continue experiencing in Oregon for generations.” Oregonians aren’t alone. A 2019 survey by travel website Booking.com found that 72 percent of global travelers think people need to make sustainable travel choices to help preserve the planet. If you’re among them, Oregon is where it’s at.

Start your trip with a car-free stay in Portland. Upon arriving at Portland International Airport, reach downtown via the MAX light rail, a low-emissions trip that takes 38 minutes and costs just $2.50. Once there, public transit is easy and plentiful aboard not only the light rail, but also buses — the city is currently testing five all-electric buses powered by 100 percent wind energy — and the Portland Streetcar. Or, traverse the city on two wheels: Portland has more than 300 miles of bike-friendly lanes, paths and trails, not to mention 1,000 bikes that can be rented from

of global travelers think people need to make sustainable travel choices.

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Tasting that pairs biodynamic wines with meat and produce that are cultivated on-site. Although you’ll need a car to navigate the Willamette Valley, you can minimize your carbon footprint in an electric vehicle. In fact, if you travel the

Oregon Wine Country Electric Vehicle Byway (plugandpinot.com) — a network

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Willow-Witt Ranch

Part of the Oregonian ethos is our love for the outdoors. We like to be outside, and we want to make sure the outdoors is something people can continue experiencing in Oregon for generations.” — LINEA GAGLIANO, DIRECTOR OF COMMUNICATIONS FOR TRAVEL OREGON

Left Coast Estate

while engaging in activities like hiking, kayaking, caving and snowshoeing. Instead of adventure, Medford is known for agriculture. Sample its bounty in nearby Ashland, home of Standing Stone Brewing Company (standingstonebrewing.com) and Willow-Witt Ranch (willowwittranch. com). Standing Stone is a sustainable brewery and restaurant that’s serviced by its own farm with free-range cattle,

sheep and chickens, beehives and an extensive composting operation through which it processes kitchen and brewing waste. Comprising 445 acres, Willow-Witt is a farm and ranch dedicated to land conservation and restoration; powered by solar and micro-hydro energy, it offers hiking, guided tours and overnight farm stays that are simple, serene and sustainable — just like Oregon. l

DAVE BALDWIN; EMILY CRILLEY

of wineries that offer charging stations — wine and wattage are always nearby. The byway stretches from Gaston in the north to Elkton in the south. In the middle is Salem, the state capital. Nearby, in Rickreall, is Left Coast Estate (leftcoastwine.com), a solar-powered winery that’s known for wood-fired pizza and old-growth white oak forests that are carefully conserved. While you’re in Salem, stay at The Grand Hotel (grandhotelsalem.com) and eat at Rafns’ Restaurant (rafns. com). The former utilizes green cleaning products, LED lighting and composting. The latter is known for its dedication to local, organic ingredients. From Salem, head south to Lane County for a pedaling good time. Stay at the Graduate Eugene (graduatehotels. com/eugene), which offers complimentary bike rentals. Then, check out one of the area’s scenic bikeways. The Covered Bridges Scenic Bikeway in Cottage Grove, for instance, traverses six covered bridges over the course of 36 miles. In McKenzie Bridge, the McKenzie Pass Scenic Bikeway’s 36.1-mile route crosses meadows, forests and 2,000-year-old lava flows. If that is too challenging, catch the Lane Transit District No. 91 bus in downtown Eugene, which is an eco-friendly way to travel the byway, a scenic route connecting riverside towns along 34 miles of Highway 26 into the Cascades. Conclude your trip in Bend or Medford, east and south of Lane County, respectively. Bend is known for its adventuresome outdoors. Stay at the Oxford Hotel (oxfordhotelbend. com), which is powered by 100 percent renewable energy and furnished with all-natural mattresses. Then take a tour with Wanderlust Tours (wanderlusttours. com), where naturalist guides educate tour-goers about the environment

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Where is Grant County, Ky.?

Where your Kentucky adventure begins! Home to the Ark Encounter, a life-size replica of Noah’s Ark, as well as lakes, trails, gentle rolling hills, specialty shops, a winery, dinner theatre, festivals and friendly folks. Grant County is the perfect place to start your Kentucky adventure because we are close to attractions such as the Newport Aquarium, Cincinnati Zoo, the Ky. Horse Park, Churchill Downs and several stops on the Bourbon Trail.

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MEXICO

Jaunt Through Guanajuato Mexican city offers European charm with Spanish flare

magine a romantic Italian hill town bursting with music, old-world charm and international culture only a few hours by plane from Los Angeles, Houston or Miami. Guanajuato, Mexico, is a 470-year-old colonial gem founded by the Spanish. Sitting 6,600 feet up in the mountains of Central America, inside a narrow river valley near some of the world’s richest gold and silver mines, it is a pedestrian’s paradise — a contemporary urban planner’s dream. The city may not have traffic lights — or many vehicles, for that matter — but it boasts picturesque plazas and public squares that feature Italianate fountains, outdoor dining and strolling

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MEXICO GUANAJUATO MEXICO CITY

mariachi groups. And there’s a Swiss-style funicular up to a towering monument to El Pípila, a hero of Mexico’s struggle for independence. From there, visitors enjoy panoramic vistas of brightly colored blue, orange, lavender and turquoise houses cascading down the hillsides.

You could spend days exploring the old city. Besides the main streets, there are miles of callejones, winding and pedestrian-only alleyways that lead up Guanajuato’s steep hillsides. While most of Guanajuato’s houses cling to the hills, much of its vehicular traffic is funneled under the old city in a network of tunnels. Emerging for the first time from one of these tunnels into the old city — via taxi from nearby León-Guanajuato airport or from the bus station — is like going back in time. Among the hundreds of prominent historic buildings are the Mexican Baroque-style Guanajuato Basilica, which dates from 1671, and the imposing neoclassical Alhóndiga de

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BY MARC BEAUCHAMP

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Granaditas, built circa 1800. Over the years the fortresslike Alhóndiga has functioned as a granary, a prison and, since the late 1950s, a museum. Today it houses a notable collection of pre-Columbian artifacts, murals and exhibits honoring heroes of Mexico’s independence. While in Guanajuato, try to take in a performance at the Teatro Juárez, the cultural heart of the city. The theater features a mix of architectural styles — from its neoclassical facade topped by bronze statues of eight of the Greek muses to its Moorish-inspired main hall. It attracts top Mexican performing artists such as Grammy Award-winning pop singer Natalia Lafourcade. There’s also a statue of native son Jorge Negrete, the beloved Mexican singer and movie star. The Teatro Juárez is also where the city hosts its international arts festival every October to honor the legacy of Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote and regarded as the Spanishspeaking world’s William Shakespeare. Music is everywhere in Guanajuato, home to a symphony orchestra that is affiliated with the University of Guanajuato. There are weekly concerts at the outdoor pavilion. Dueling mariachi groups frequent the restaurants that line the triangular square. Buskers work the main streets and sometimes drop in at restaurants and cafés. Near the Teatro Juárez, singers and musicians dressed in 15th-century costumes play period instruments, dance, and tell jokes and stories before taking groups of visitors on nightly singing tours of the city’s callejones. (Note to light sleepers: Pack earplugs. In addition to the ever-present music and festivities on the streets, there are barking dogs, crowing roosters, clanging church bells and fireworks.) Guanajuato is also the birthplace of muralist Diego Rivera, husband of artist Frida Kahlo. Rivera’s family home has been preserved as a museum and there’s a life-size statue of him on a sidewalk nearby. The city’s central market, the Mercado Hidalgo, built in 1910, is worth a visit. Browse its produce and meat

Underground tunnels

sections, haggle over souvenirs and order a bargain-price meal at one of its many food stalls. Just to the north of the old city you can don a hard hat and descend into the Valenciana mine. The steep, uneven stairs and humid, claustrophobic tunnels will make you empathize with the miners who extracted mineral riches (for a time in the 18th century, Guanajuato was the world’s leading producer of silver). At the nearby Valenciana Church, the enormous Baroque altar is gilded with gold. To get a glimpse of how the “1 percent” lived when Spain controlled Guanajuato and the rest of Mexico, visit the Ex-Hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera museum with its grand adobe house and themed gardens. It’s a short taxi ride from the old city. Guanajuato has restaurants ranging from humble houses to fancy

Signs direct traffic through subterranean roadways created from ancient silver mines that run beneath downtown Guanajuato, Mexico. three-star establishments with attentive service. You can find everything from street tacos to nouvelle Mexican cuisine — not to mention pizza, sushi and hamburgers. Like Mexico City, Guanajuato supports a vibrant street food scene. Hit the cobblestones to sample tamales, gorditas, ice cream, horchata and grilled ears of corn slathered in mayonnaise and dusted with chili powder. Unlike a trip to Cabo or Cancun, you probably won’t come home with a suntan after a stay in Guanajuato, but you will return with pictures and memories of a place that evokes romantic southern Europe. Plus, you can get there and back without the jet lag and for a lot less than you’d likely spend on a trip to Spain or Italy. — Marc Beauchamp writes for the Redding (Calif.) Record Searchlight.

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EUROPE | SCOT L A N D

Buchanan Street

Glasgow Wows Experience this Scottish city’s surprisingly edgy, artsy vibe

lasgow, astride the River Clyde, is a surprising city — and one of Scotland’s most underrated destinations. About 50 miles from Edinburgh (making it an easy day trip), Glasgow offers an energetic dining and nightlife scene; fanciful architecture, such as the Clyde Arc Bridge, and top-notch museums — most of which are free. Today, this once run-down city feels revitalized, and Glaswegians (sounds like “Norwegians”) are eager to give visitors a warm welcome. The locals are some of the chattiest people in Scotland — with entertaining (and impenetrable) accents. One once told me he was “British by passport and Scottish by the grace of God.” Their

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unpretentious friendliness makes connecting with people here a cinch. There’s no upper-crust history, and no one puts on airs. In Edinburgh, people identify with the quality of the school they attended; in Glasgow, it’s their soccer team allegiance. In its 19th-century heyday, Glasgow was one of Europe’s biggest cities and the second-largest in Britain, right behind London. It was at the forefront of the Industrial Revolution and is said to have produced a quarter of the world’s oceangoing ships. After World War II, the city was hit with tough times, giving it a gritty image. But modern Glasgow is rejuvenating itself with a thriving cultural scene and a knack for design and artsy edge. Glasgow tells its story throughout its vibrant streets and squares. At the

heart of the city is George Square, decorated with a who’s who of statues depicting great Scots, from top literary figures Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns to James Watt, who perfected the steam engine that helped power Europe into the Industrial Age. On the same square, in front of the City Chambers, stands a monument to Glaswegians killed in the world wars. Architecture buffs flock here to appreciate the distinct Glaswegian flair evident across the city’s Victorian facades, early 20th-century touches and bold and glassy new construction. Most beloved are the works by Glasgow-born architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. During the late 1800s and early 1900s, Mackintosh brought an exuberant art nouveau influence to this otherwise practical, working-class city

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BY RICK STEVES

Clyde Arc Bridge

GETTY IMAGES (3); PROVIDED BY THE MACKINTOSH AT THE WILLOW

George Square

with his stimulating blend of organic building, the Kelvingrove is Glasgow’s shapes and Japanese-inspired design. best museum — like a Scottish You’ll have several opportunities to Smithsonian, with everything from experience Mackintosh’s work in natural history exhibits to fine artwork Glasgow. The Mackintosh at the Willow by the great masters. tearooms, dating back to 1903, are an Glasgow’s artsy vibe extends beyond art nouveau masterpiece where you its museums, permeating city streets can have a meal or with eclectic mural tea, or pay to browse art. City officials have exhibits about the cleverly co-opted street history of Glasgow artists by sanctioning and tearooms. During huge, colorful murals the industrial boom of around town to prevent the late 19th century, tagging. This creative Victorian morals problem-solving is prevailed, and the typical of Glaswegians Scottish temperance — taking counterculture movement was in full The Mackintosh energy and focusing at the Willow force. Tearooms were on its most positive designed to be an aspects. There’s even a appealing alternative city map available that to pubs — where women could traces the city’s best mural art. visit unescorted, without risking an To feel the pulse of the city, head undesirable reputation. to busy Buchanan Street, nicknamed Across town, the Mackintosh exhibit the “Golden Z” for the way it zigzags at the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and through town. And as home to the top Museum hosts a collection of the shops, it’s also dubbed the “Style Mile.” architect’s works. Housed in a grand, This is the place to people-watch, gaze 100-year-old Spanish Baroque-style up at the elegant architecture above

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum

the storefronts and enjoy the talented buskers that bring the boulevard to life. Live music is a major part of Glasgow’s personality, and one of the best places to experience this is in the city’s West End. I recently bellied up to the bar at the Ben Nevis Pub, where I expected to hear traditional Scottish music. But as the session started, I was surprised to learn that the entire U.K. was represented in the band, with musicians from Northern Ireland, Wales, England and Scotland. My Glaswegian friend pointed out that this is the fun reality of Glasgow, where tribes come together to make music. And that (as a microcosm of our world in general) is a beautiful thing. The more time you spend in Glasgow, the more you’ll appreciate its edgy, artsy vibe and quirky, laid-back personality. The city’s earthy charm and the Glaswegians’ love of life make it one of my favorite stops in Britain. — Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks, hosts travel shows on public television and public radio, and blogs at facebook.com/ricksteves.

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CANADA | T HOMPSON OK A NAGA N

Awesome Okanagan Soak up views and culture in this frosty, but fun, Canada region BY CORINNE WHITING

ot far beyond the Canadian border, a beautiful destination offers a warm welcome and tucked-away surprises. Not only is British Columbia’s Thompson Okanagan home to the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, Canada’s only desert and dozens of twinkling lakes, but the region also features world-class wineries, inventive, fresh fare and rich indigenous culture that leaves an indelible mark.

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If connecting through Vancouver, consider staying overnight at the Fairmont Vancouver Airport, perhaps the nicest luxury hotel you’ll ever experience that also features runway views. Thanks to triple-pane, soundproof, floor-to-ceiling windows, noise is no problem here, yet you may lose some winks due to captivating views of nearby peaks and airplane activity. The chic venue also features an indoor pool, health club, spa, nightly music in the lounge and exquisite dining choices, like an extensive breakfast buffet (think fresh fruit, local salmon and grilled avocado creations). Hop on a quick flight or pull out the GPS to head east toward Kamloops for a picturesque road trip. From Vancouver, the drive to

Kamloops is about 220 miles via Highway 5. Known as a year-round adventure playground, Kamloops boasts a friendly, small-town vibe typical of places removed from the bustle. The name comes from the Secwépemc (Shuswap) word Tk’emlúps, meaning “where the rivers meet” (referring to the convergence of the North and South Thompson rivers). This stunning region is home to the Tk’emlúps Indian Band, members of the Interior-Salish Secwépemc-speaking peoples of British Columbia. Delve into local culture at the Secwèpemc Museum and Heritage Park, and on Moccasin Trails’ magictinged canoe tours, where flute and drum music, singing and storytelling complement the >

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Vineyard overlooking Okanagan Lake, Kelowna

For your guide to the experience of a lifetime:

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CANADA | T HOMPSON OK A NAGA N

Quaaout Lodge

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BRITISH COLUMBIA

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Grand Okanagan Resort

Fairmont Vancouver Airport

BENJAMIN LUK PHOTOGRAPHY; BLAKE JORGENSON PHOTOGRAPHY LTD; DELTA HOTELS; FAIRMONT VANCOUVER AIRPORT; MAP: AMIRA MARTIN

otherworldly sight of eagles swooping across the shores. In this sacred land, you’ll find 100-plus freshwater lakes, as well as fantastic hoodoo formations. Every fourth year, a dominant sockeye run — one of the largest in the world — fills the Adams River with millions of salmon that have returned home to spawn and complete their life cycle. From mid-December to March, locals and visitors fill their days downhill skiing as well as exploring winter trails via snowshoes, cross-country skis or bikes. Sample the flavors of the region along the Kamloops Wine Trail at a handful of bustling breweries and at cozy eateries like Red Beard Cafe. The tranquil Quaaout Lodge at Talking Rock Golf Resort proves the perfect base, set on the edge of Little Shuswap Lake and offering 1,800 feet of sandy beach. Enjoy amenities like an indoor pool, authentic native gourmet meals at Jack and menu, which have made this dining Sam’s Restaurant (Try the irresistible room a prime gathering space since 1926. bannock bread.) and tours of native Be sure not to miss Indigenous World Winery, the first winery in the world that interpretive areas like a traditional sweat lodge and a kekuli — or winter home is 100 percent owned and operated by — built in a pit in the ground and once indigenous people. intended to lodge an entire family. You should also stop by Mission Hill Family Estate, a spectacular, sprawling, The trip from Kamloops to Kelowna, the gateway to British Columbia’s largest European-inspired property with a wine-producing region, is about Greco-Roman amphitheater (for 100 miles. Home to the Kettle summer concerts), 12-story Valley Rail Trail and other bell tower and cavernous outdoor draws, Kelowna cellar that impresses boasts some 30 beaches nearly as much as the and a population that impeccable wines. doubles in summer Enhance your time months. It’s a bustling by booking a lakefront OKANAGAN town with plenty stay at the luxurious of character that’s Delta Hotels’ Grand VICTORIA Okanagan Resort, a Marsmack-dab in the middle of Okanagan Valley. riott property in downtown Enjoy skiing and other Kelowna in a dramatic snow-centric activities at Big setting. In addition to the on-site White Ski Resort. Then, cozy up inside spa, guests can enjoy meals at OAK+CRU Social Kitchen & Wine Bar, a regionally inviting destinations that pour local vintages and serve food grown at inspired restaurant with a buzzing scene nearby farms. Savor hearty breakfasts in and sensational wine list. downtown Kelowna’s Waterfront Café, or After spending nearly a week among drive out to Summerhill Winery’s organic the warm, kind people of the Thompson bistro for sweeping lake views and vegan Okanagan, the region’s tagline rings true: lunch dishes from soup to calamari. “A landscape as diverse as the adventures In the evening, fall under the spell within it.” When British Columbia of Hotel Eldorado’s dreamy ambiance beckons, gladly comply. l

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CARIBBEAN | PET I T ST. V INCEN T

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Soak Up the Solitude Enjoy the perfectly private Petit St. Vincent BY DIANE BAIR AND PAMELA WRIGHT

rom afar, you may not be impressed. Petit St. Vincent (PSV) looks like a green hump of land as you approach it by ferry from Union Island, about 6 miles from the destination. Then, a series of cottages emerges, built into the hillside and bluffs and along the beach. That’s when things begin to look promising. And, once you’re whisked by golf cart to your stone-and-hardwood abode through a whorl of sweetscented tropical blooms, you realize you’re in for something special. Welcome to your own nearly private island. There’s no town on this 115-acre volcanic isle, just a single resort with a practical name that reiterates its location: Petit St. Vincent. It’s been called “one of the world’s most en-

chanting hideaways.” Part of the island country of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, lying between St. Lucia (to the north) and Grenada (to the south), Petit St. Vincent is not easy to get to. For many U.S. guests, it involves a day of travel — a flight to Barbados, a shorter flight to Union Island and then a ferry ride to PSV. Any travel-induced crabbiness vanishes once you see this place up close: a collection of 22 rustic one- and two-bedroom cottages and villas, ringed by 2 miles of white sand and lapped by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other. Do the math: “Every guest has a couple of acres each,” says Matt Semark, general manager of the resort, which owns the island. This is peaceful luxury: vibrant artwork, teak furnishings, a wood-paddled ceiling fan and — of course — a hammock tied

between two palm trees. (There’s also air conditioning, but you probably won’t need it thanks to those ocean breezes.) Cottages and villas have king-size beds, Italian linens, Bulgari toiletries, Nespresso coffee machines and Bose MP3 docks. What you won’t find in your room: Wi-Fi, TV or locks on the doors. Guests are often taken aback when they learn that the only connected spot is at the resort’s main pavilion. (Rooms do have intercoms in case of emergency.) “At first, some guests panic,” Semark admits. “But the following day, they appreciate it. You can see the weight shift off people’s shoulders when they are unplugged from their devices.” It can also be disconcerting that the doors don’t lock — but in such an open-air space, it probably doesn’t matter >

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IF YOU GO

anyway. The resort has never had an issue with security, Semark says. “It’s been like this (no locks) since the resort opened in 1968. On this island, it’s just us. There’s no crime. Everyone’s ‘auntie’ or ‘uncle.’” Untethered from the 24/7 news cycle, it’s easy to fall into the carefree rhythm of island life. PSV uses a flag system to alert butlers if you need anything, and you place your breakfast order in a bamboo tube the previous night. Like magic, your meal appears in the morning. It’s easy to go into major chill mode and spend the day sitting under a palapa watching the sailboats glide by. But most guests can’t resist the array of sporty activities available at the resort: kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, Sunfish sailboating, sailboarding and snorkeling — all included in the room rate. Some of the finest snorkeling in the West Indies is found in the Grenadines, and you can snorkel right off the beach. Once you’ve found the perfect spot for sunbathing, don’t bother getting up. On some beaches, guests can order food using the flag system. Rather sail or scuba dive? Sessions and courses provided by Professional

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Association of Diving Instructors guides have to decide what to order at PSV’s are available. Or spend a day aboard restaurants. There’s no wrong answer Beauty, a classic 49-foot sloop (extra — the food is delicious, and it couldn’t charges apply for both of these). Capbe fresher. The resort’s gardens are lush tain Jeff Stevens and crew sail Beauty with kale, different types of lettuces to the famed Tobago Cays (named one and herbs, and the kitchen relies on the of the most beautiful places on Earth bounty of farmers and fishermen from in the book 1,000 Places to See Before You the islands. Sustainable practices are Die) for a snorkel tour, an a priority. (Refill stations island hike and barbecue for water bottles are lunch of local fish and one example.) You can Caribbean lobster. literally dine with your If hiking is more your toes in the sand at the speed, lace up those casual Beach Restaurant, sneakers and trek to where the menu leans the top of Marni Hill (an toward Caribbean tapas elevation of 275 feet), for and pizza from a clay sweeping views of the oven. The Main Pavilion northern Grenadines. Restaurant and Bar offers Or get plenty of exercise a more formal threeriding your bike around — MATT SEMARK course dining experience, the island; every cottage atop a hill overlooking the is supplied with bikes harbor amid flowering for guests’ use. Other things not to frangipani and hibiscus. be missed: a Balinese massage at the With rates starting at around $1,260 resort’s treetop spa with an ocean view per night in low season, Petit St. and morning yoga at the Conch Bay Vincent is a splurge, but it’s the rare Yoga Pavilion. resort that makes unwinding so effortAs if choosing which sport to try and less. And while you’re here, watching which hammock has the best views the world go by from your hammock, it weren’t difficult enough, you’ll also sure feels like it all belongs to you. l

On this island, it’s just us. There’s no crime. Everyone’s ‘auntie’ or ‘uncle.’”

GETTY IMAGES; MIKE TOY PHOTOGRAPHY (3); JEAN-MICHEL COUSTEAU DIVING

The resort is closed for refurbishment each year from August through October. Rates range from $1,260 per night in low season to $1,980 per night in peak season for a one-bedroom cottage. Two-bedroom villas start at $1,785. Packages are available. Rates include three meals daily, all nonalcoholic beverages and use of nonmotorized watersports equipment. u petitstvincent.com

DIVE INTO WINTER IN

SAINT LUCIA www.stlucia.org

CRUISES

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ARGENTINA DRAKE PASSAGE

ANTARCTICA

Chills and Thrills Spot penguins, whales, seals and icebergs on an Antarctic cruise STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TREVOR HUGHES

cy water is soaking my backside. My hands are freezing, and the waves are breaking over our kayak’s bow, and I’m starting to consider the wisdom of what we’re doing. But there’s a penguin squawking as it swims past the kayak and then an iceberg — an iceberg! — floats past, and there’s a huge grin on my dad’s face. And then it hits me: This is why we’re in Antarctica.

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GETTING THERE Dad and I had kicked around the idea of an Antarctic trip for years, but the timing was never quite right. Also, both of us were wary of spending so much time aboard a cruise ship to get there. But commercial cruise ships are generally the only transportation option, unless you can finagle an invite to one of the government-run research bases or have a friend with a boat big enough to brave the Drake Passage. After some research, we settled on a trip >

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run by Oceanwide Expeditions, which offered smallboat trips from Ushuaia, Argentina, to Antarctica. Our ship, the Ortelius, was an ice-strengthened vessel with about 120 passengers and another 40 or so crew members, from the captain and his officers to the deckhands who raised and lowered the Zodiac speedboats and the highly-educated expedition staff, festooned with medical degrees and Ph.D.s and a vast amount of practical experience guiding trips around the world. In addition to taking us ashore or on Zodiac trips, the expedition guides offered well-attended naturalist talks and photo classes. These aren’t cheap excursions, mind you: Prices for the itinerary we chose start at about $8,000, but discounts are usually available. And that’s just for the on-water portion of the trip. You’ll also need to

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get yourself to the southern tip of South America’s Tierra del Fuego and spend at least one night in a hotel there before embarking.

SIGHTS TO SEA Icebergs. Penguins. Seals. Whales. Snowshoeing. Some of our shipmates even got to camp on land overnight! (One said she thought the best part was getting back aboard the warm Ortelius.) During our trip, which left Ushuaia shortly after Thanksgiving, there was some wintry, windy weather, which is normal for Antarctic trips in the springtime. Trips later in the warm season tend to have better weather and more whales, but fewer icebergs and pack ice, and you miss out on the drama of the snowcapped peaks. For us, the chance to see the glaciers topped with fresh winter snow

and to watch icebergs calving into the frigid waters was a major draw. We witnessed several avalanches, occasional whiteout conditions and the eerie sight of a carpet of ice rising and falling atop the rolling ocean. Shore visits were tightly controlled as part of Oceanwide’s commitment as a member of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators. We all vacuumed our clothes before stepping ashore, and our boots were soaked with disinfectant to avoid cross-contamination from the outside world. But precautions pale when compared with the sheer fact that we got to walk around on an entire continent where the official human population is zero. The jaw-dropping scenery continued to scroll past pretty much the entire trip: adorable penguins squawking and swimming or clumsily building nests with small rocks. Whales surfaced regularly, their warm breath converted to easily seen blasts of condensation above the icy waters, their dark backs and tails sliding beneath. Crabeater seals lounged on ice floes, lazily lifting their heads as our ship motored through the shockingly narrow Lemaire Channel.

BREAKING THE ICE Toward the end of our nine-day trip, the wind was driving loose ice, known as “brash ice” into the bays and harbors we had planned to land

in, preventing us from going ashore as often as planned. But as our guides reminded us, being blocked from landing on Antarctica because of the abundance of icebergs in the way, is in itself a pretty awesome thing to say out loud, never mind to experience. Standing on the ship’s bow or on the warm bridge quickly became a favorite way to pass the hours as the Ortelius forged a path through early-spring ice and delivered us from one stunning cove to another. Trips like this leave plenty of time to chat with fellow passengers, who are inevitably well-traveled. My dad, who is 78, was one of dozens of people aboard finishing up their seventh continent, and everyone had trip suggestions or tips for restaurants in Bangkok or seeing the Northern Lights in Norway. Sailing back to Ushuaia was far rougher than the trip over, with massive waves pitching our 300-foot-long ship so sharply that the captain barred us from going outside. But the frequent and excellent food service never stopped despite the waves, and the air subtly warmed with each mile. Even though we spent less than a week in Antarctica, I feel a strong sense of longing for the continent and its soaring peaks, blue-hued icebergs and abundant wildlife. Setting foot back on warm, dry land, I found myself thinking: When can we go back? l

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ONE FOR THE ROAD

Chasing Waterfalls Visit these national parks for breathtaking aquatic views BY AMBER TUCKER

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Lower Yellowstone Falls

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he National Park Service recorded more than 300 million visits to its lands in 2018, and its majestic and mesmerizing waterfalls may be part of the reason. Wyoming’s Yellowstone National Park is home to many waterfalls, and the Lower Falls is one of the most popular. Standing 308 feet tall, it is the perfect place for memorable photo ops. The Lower Falls Trail is a brisk hike of 0.7 miles round trip and offers picturesque views of the waterfall. The Florence Falls Trail hike in Montana’s Glacier National Park is moderately easy at 9.8 miles. On your journey, you’ll pass the smaller Deadwood Falls. When you reach the 210-foot Florence Falls, where waters have etched their own staircase, you’ll be in awe. Cattail Falls at Big Bend National Park in Texas is a 1.5-mile journey the entire family can enjoy. Tucked away in the park, some might miss the small sign in the parking lot that alerts visitors to the 80-foot waterfall’s location. The trail is surrounded by lush vegetation, which is part of the park’s delicate ecosystem. In Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park, Overall Run Falls ranks as the tallest in the park, at 93 feet. It’s a 6.4-mile hike to the falls, so take advantage of the nearby rock ledges that allow you to rest and enjoy the view. Visiting during the fall months promises canopies of beautiful fall colors. Visit Yosemite Falls in spring as it thaws, and you may see blocks of ice falling from the 2,425-foot cliff at California’s Yosemite National Park. As one of the tallest waterfalls in the world, it’s easily visible from several vantage points in the park, offering innumerous photo ops. Follow the 1-mile paved loop to the lower falls for a close-up view.

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