Work Facilitates Integration

WORK FACILITATES INTEGRATION

A shortage of skilled workers has created a massive void in what remains of European textile production. The idea that domestic staff might return to the sewing and knitting machines, or even production lines in general, is so unrealistic that even the most brazen right-wingers shy away from propagating it. It is an undeniable fact that foreigners did not take these jobs away from locals. Domestic workers have no interest in taking them. And this was the case long before the so-called Gen Z appeared on the scene. Even the very first wave of migrant workers was based on demand. The fact that this generation of skilled workers is now fast approaching retirement age presents European textile companies with yet another major challenge. Given that the term “welcoming culture” has been twisted into an insult, businesses are struggling particularly hard to find and retain all-important specialists. Even though statistical data proves that employment is the best form of integration, political agendas do not seem to include the support of companies or the permanent integration of foreign skilled workers. Hats off to those businesses who make an effort anyway.

RITA IN PALMA “IT HAS TO WORK”

Ann-Kathrin Carstensen, with her jewellery label Rita in Palma and her foundation Von Meisterhand e.V., embodies a very special brand of integration endeavour. In deepest Neukölln, she and her team transform finest knotting techniques into couture. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Rita in Palma

Rita in Palma is not merely another label launched by a young designer. You even received a special award for integration efforts from the German chancellor as part of the Startsocial campaign. How did this come about?

After completing my fashion design studies in 2011, it didn’t take me long to figure out that I would like to use Rita in Palma to make craftsmanship, which is an integral part of Turkish culture, visible and valued. I was forced to convince many people of my idea and got deeply involved in Turkish culture before I was able to assemble my first team. I contributed too by taking a Turkish language course, for example. I learned a lot during that time. I had to integrate myself first.

Launching a fashion start-up and a charitable association sounds like a lot of work…

It was a lot of work, and it still is today. I was a one-woman show for many years before a private donor backed me by financing a part-time employee. I probably didn’t sell as many

necklaces as I could have, because I spent many long hours sitting in the immigration offices. It’s a constant balancing act and my to-do list is infinite. But it has to work, not least because of my women. Germany has never shown an interest in the women who came with the migrant workers. They have raised children who are usually excellently integrated and have great careers. But these mothers lose their right to stay when their children leave home. I am paraphrasing of course, but the legislator basically says that you must leave if you receive social benefits, are considered to be unemployable, and don’t speak German.

Working at Rita in Palma and Von Meisterhand e.V. is so much more than just a lifeline for these women.

Yes. They come here, exchange ideas, and learn German. It’s textbook empowerment. My Turkish crochet queens, as I call them affectionately, now train women from other countries of origin, currently from Syria, Lebanon, Pakistan, and Kosovo. Work gives them and their craft dignity and a sense of self-worth. This is particularly important to me, because female cultural techniques often don’t have any monetary value. Cobblers and bag makers, which are classic male professionals, receive monetary recognition, but we still have to convince people that artistic crochet lace, or our crocheted pearl accessories, are just as valuable. A hand-crafted collier that took 40 hours to make is allowed to be expensive!

Crocheting couture instead of trousseau: jewellery label Rita in Palma, as well as its affiliated association Von Meisterhand e.V., place the traditional craftsmanship of Turkish women in a fashionable context.

A fighter through and through: Ann-Kathrin Carstensen invests an unbelievable amount of energy in an integration project close to her heart.

In the meantime, the women who were part of the project right from the start are passing the craft on to others.

This is an immensely important milestone for our organisation. My declared goal is to create a couture workshop of world renown here in Neukölln. I want it to work for the major fashion houses. These women are gifted. They are a unique treasure. The organisation and the label currently employ 13 women. We attach great importance to ensuring that the work is compatible with the women’s life circumstances. If a woman still has six children to take care of, she can only manage five colliers a month. The most important aspect is that women are respected for their work - by us, by their families, by the state, and by our customers. www.ritainpalma.com

VAUDE GROWTH THROUGH INTEGRATION

Outdoor specialist Vaude sets ecological and social standards. The family business employs approx. 500 people at its headquarters in Tettnang in southern Germany. Antje von Dewitz, the Managing Director of Vaude, strongly believes that environmentally friendly products from fair production are just as important as the well-being of the staff. Since 2016, Vaude has awarded eleven permanent positions, one traineeship, and numerous internships to refugees. The company is politically committed to the right of displaced persons to remain in employment and training. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photo: Vaude

As a member of the German economic initiative “We Together” and the network “Businesses Integrate Refugees”, you have established connections with 120 other companies. In addition, you have launched the entrepreneur initiative “Right of Residence through Work” in cooperation with the Härle brewery. More than 150 companies from all over Germany have already joined. What are your demands for a new immigration law and for the implementation of the government’s position paper on the creation of a right of residence for integrated and employed refugees?

We need an immigration law that not only takes skilled workers, as defined by Germany’s dual vocational training occupations or university degrees, into account, but also those occupational profiles that are actually required by the economy. The latter include, among others, factory workers, truck drivers, forklift drivers, cleaning staff, and caregivers. These jobs are, as a rule, semi-skilled and don’t have - or don’t need - qualified training.

Antje von Dewitz and Vaude received the LEA Mittelstandspreis 2017 for social responsibility from the Ministry of Economics Baden-Württemberg and were awarded the Demographics Excellence Award 2017 in the category “Foreign & Domestic” for their commitment to refugees.

We need a right of residence for semi-skilled refugees who have already been integrated into the labour market at great expense and who make a valuable contribution to German SMEs, making it possible for products and services to be manufactured and provided in Germany. The draft law on employment acquiescence is not sufficient. It covers people who have been acquiesced for 12 months. However, many refugees who entered Germany in 2015/16 are still in the process of obtaining acquiescence or only recently obtained it.

“Our refugee employees are an enrichment for the company,” says Antje von Dewitz.

What economic damage would the deportation of refugee workers cause and how great is the demand for labour?

If we were to lose our colleagues who work in the manufactory, we would suffer a loss of production and sales in the range of 250,000 Euros. And we are by no means an isolated case.

A number of companies throughout Germany have been thrown into crises, even existential in nature in some cases, due to a loss of employees.

We are also not an isolated case in terms of labour demand.

Businesses of all sizes from various industries, such as production, logistics, catering, and healthcare, can hardly meet operational requirements due to a lack of lorry drivers, forklift drivers, cleaning staff, factory workers, and caregivers.

Continuous growth requires more staff.

Let’s take the Lake Constance/Upper Swabia region, where we are headquartered, as an example. More than 60% of companies have trouble filling vacant positions, especially as an unemployment rate of 2.5% equals full employment. The

IHK Economy Report from autumn 2018 states: “One in three companies is hoping for skilled workers from abroad, while one in five is trying to recruit refugees. However, one in ten companies also states that, due to a shortage of skilled workers, it is planning to relocate activities abroad, or proposing that production and services are to be restricted or at least not expanded.”

How difficult is it for you to find the skilled workers you require?

Vorarlberg is a region with a rich textile heritage, but as one of the many companies that once existed here, we are among the last to remain. The “Made in Austria” aspect is as important to our customers as it is to us, so we intend to retain it. However, it is becoming increasingly complex to replace retired employees. The local textile college has discontinued the training of manufacturing professions. It now focuses solely on engineers, textile managers, and designers. There was no demand for the other professions. Young people obviously have no interest in such careers anymore.

Are foreign workers helping to fill this gap?

Yes. Vorarlberg benefitted from the first wave of migrant workers in the 1970s. These craft trades require extreme dexterity. Our seamstresses cannot be compared to conventional seamstresses. Sewing knitwear and jersey materials is much more complicated and requires finesse. Many women of Turkish origin, for example, were outstanding contributors to our success. It was ideal for them that we primarily offered part-time positions. But this generation is now reaching retirement age.

You now also employ refugees…

Yes. We have two Syrians and one Afghan employee in our company. This is a new experience for us, because this kind of work was mostly performed by women until now. We

You claim that the economy can benefit greatly in the long term as long as we work together to give displaced persons a perspective. How does the integration process at Vaude work in practice?

Integration into the labour market is not a walk in the park. It’s arduous, time-consuming, requires commitment, and often nerve-wracking. One needs to overcome a lack of German language skills, assist people in finding a place to live, and help them navigate the administrative jungle. Integration can only succeed if many people in the respective company commit to it and put in an effort. But it’s all worth it; it offers added value for all involved parties. We are immensely proud of how this has been proven repeatedly by our company. Our refugees have developed into fully-fledged, highly committed, and motivated employees. Most importantly, they are valued colleagues. They enrich our company and we can no longer imagine life without them.

“WE ARE AMONG THE LAST REMAINING”

Austrian knitwear label Phil Petter manufactures its products in Dornbirn. What customers perceive as a convincing selling point, is a constant challenge for Managing Director Anja Grabherr-Petter. As one of the last remaining textile companies, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find skilled workers. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Phil Petter

www.unternehmer-initiative.com, www.vaude.com

Anja Grabherr-Petter describes finding new talent as a great challenge.

cooperate closely with Caritas in this respect. Caritas placed these colleagues with us and advises us in terms of residence permits and refugee status. This is all very complex. Our personnel manager now needs to be well-versed in many different areas.

Do you have any hope that these workers will be allowed to stay with you permanently?

Our Afghan colleague will be forced to return home as soon as the region he comes from is declared safe. If that happens, I don’t see how it could be averted. www.philpetter.com

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DEVELOPING PEOPLE PEOPLE Does every employee have high potential? In order to perform optimally, every individual needs to be challenged, DEVELOPING encouraged, developed, and trained. Then the skill is to loosen the leash sufficiently to ensure a healthy balance between freedom and commitment.