8 minute read
The Boutique’s Finest Moment
The connection between customer and retailer in individual stores has never been closer. These stores are, after all, an excellent compass in the “anything goes” fashion universe. Instead of following a specific trend, women prefer to wear what reflects their personality. And the retailers? Their orders are more accurate than ever. Retailers have learned their lessons from many weeks of closures and “Click & Meet”.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. llustration: jamesbin/stockadobe
It is Tina Doblinger’s first day off in ten weeks. She and her team have been working flat out for the last few months – be it on site in her two stores By Tinas and Optimismo, or on Instagram and WhatsApp. “A much more intensive customer relationship has developed, even online,” says the retail expert from Gröbenzell. “I have learned so much, for example that photos are not enough. I need to include a message in the videos to ensure that the people out there can get to know me better. The great feedback from all over the world has shown that I can reach them everywhere with a personal approach, even in Dubai!”
THE POWER OF PERSONALITY
This is the hour of the owner-managed boutique, which can now impress with proximity and intimacy. Many retailers have literally stepped into the spotlight to address their customers even more proactively – with success. “We sense a new appreciation,” says Karin Wirth, who runs Carina Fashion in the South Tyrolean town of Kaltern with Brigitte and Marialuise Andergassen. “We offer our customers comfort fashion – not too elegant, not too sporty. They feel accepted by us, no matter whether they are size 34 or 48. People who buy from us don’t usually buy online.” Angela Krull displays enormous flexibility for her store Krull & Co Fashion. “We have gone out of our way in every way possible to provide customers with the service they desire.” This has sharpened her sense for her customers’ fashion tastes even more: casual-cool pieces by American Vintage, Lala Berlin, and Nili Lotan. All items
need to be comfortable, not least because no woman is willing to forego the recently acquired benefits of wearing comfort. The much-cited fashion dictate seems to be well and truly passé. Personality and individuality are in high demand. This is presumably the reason why there is no more room for that one must-have piece, just as there is no singular trend that everyone feels obliged to follow. Instead, we are witnessing a variety of trends that are far removed from arbitrariness. This makes it somewhat easier to create individual looks. Do women now have a better idea of what suits them? “They are certainly better informed,” answers Angela Krull. “However, they still visit us because they value our advice too.” “The customer only buys if the fashion suits her and emphasises her personality,” says Alexandra Schütz of Top Chic. “She has no real interest in the blazer hype, but rather buys cosy jumpers and fun blouses, for example by Closed, Otto d’Ame, and 360 Cashmere.” What does she, as a retailer, need from her brands? Flexibility and, above all, teamwork. “How we interact with each other is more decisive than ever. I no longer accept limits anymore either. They are, quite simply put, anachronistic.”
WOW MOMENT
Bea Schneiter of Evoilá in Berikon sold Marc Cain for 20 years. “My customer no longer buys a brand, she buys Evoilá,” the Swiss fashion entrepreneur explains. “She sees the same wherever she goes, especially in larger stores. My chance lies in taking a risk. If I can surprise her with highlights she falls in love with, she will buy them.” Evoilá combines a Schumacher blouse with Antonelli trousers and showcases a traditionally inspired piece by niche label Von und Zu from Allgäu. “Sustainability is also becoming more important to customers,” Bea Schneiter argues convincingly. “Everything that tells a story and evokes emotion is a winner.” During the crisis, Maria Glaser has further honed the unique signature of her business I love Maria‘s. Her daily feel-good posts have attracted new fans beyond Austria‘s borders.
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7 1 Angela Krull, Krull & Co Fashion 2 From left: Karin Wirth, Brigitte
Andergassen, Marialuise Andergassen,
Carina Fashion 3 Fränzi and Nina Wohlert, Lilou 4 Alexandra Schütz, Top Chic 5 Bea Schneiter, Evoilá 6 Maria Glaser, I love Maria’s 7 Tina Doblinger, By Tinas
“I now only order what convinces me 100 percent. This is my new motto in life,” the Salzburg native says. “That ensures that my customers cannot resist the fashion on display either.” She stocks dresses by Shirtaporter or Maliparmi, unusually cut pieces by Eva Mann, and casual styles by Alessia Santi. The latter is an Italian label that is rarely found anywhere else. The feminine, often colourful looks are both a commitment and an appeal. “I want to encourage my female customers to embrace the fact that they are being looked at,” explains Maria Glaser. “Many are willing to tread this path with me. My investment is now starting to pay dividends.” The customers of Lilou in Schaffenhausen can always expect an explosion of colour and a holiday atmosphere featuring fun fashion by brands such as Moschino, Katja Serafini, and Flowers, as well as kimonos by Ivi. “Our orders are currently incredibly on point, mainly because we have got to know our customers so well,” says Fränzi Wohlert, who manages the boutique with her daughter Nina Wohlert. “When an agent tells me that others have ordered something in large volumes, it encourages me even more to be unique in my own selection.”
THE END OF CHANCE
Does the success of an owner-managed boutique rely less and less on chance? In the past, a consumer who visited a store would buy when she happened to find the right item in a wide range of products by chance. Today, however, much less is left to chance. Retailers are increasingly inviting their customers into the showroom virtually. Their orders are no longer spread out to cater for a broad product range that covers every angle. Instead, they focus on special highlights, especially as customers are getting used to committing to individual shopping appointments. Something else has become apparent quite incidentally: customer traffic is not a key success factor in the premium retail segment. More customers in the store do not guarantee higher sales. Private shopping appointments are now firmly established at Krull & Co Fashion. “It pays off to have time to attend to everyone individually,” says Angela Krull. Tina Doblinger also appreciates the fact that she can prepare more thoroughly for arranged appointments. “I am thinking about reserving one day a week exclusively for private shopping. I consider the idea enormously exciting! However, the average customer is still reluctant to commit to a fixed appointment.” Chance remains an important factor, argues Alexandra Schütz. “If there are other people in the store, they can start conversations with each other. This, in turn, lightens the mood.” Ultimately, fashion shopping thrives on spontaneity, moments of happiness, and surprises. And all that cannot be planned in advance…
OOHH! FINE FASHION, CHUR “I AM MY STORE’S USP”
What makes you unique as a retailer?
Sereina Vischer, owner of Oohh! Fine Fashion: I like people and am interested in their stories. My customers can sense that. They enjoy visiting me, mainly because they feel appreciated. I am always in the store, always there for them. The personal touch has become enormously important.
Many trends coexist now. Apparently, women are no longer willing to bow to a fashion dictate. Are they more aware of what optimises their look?
No, many are insecure and feel a little stuck. They thus place all the more trust in my ability to surprise them with something new they would never have considered. Instead of following every trend, they crave something individual that underlines their personality. It seems rigid ideas have no place in an era of diversity and body positivity.
Has the classic boutique regained relevance?
Absolutely. Customers no longer accept the arbitrary. They also pay more attention to where and how something is produced. If an item really excites them, the price plays a subordinate role.
How important are brands?
Customers do not ask for them. They trust that I have something for them that is not widely available: knitwear by Henry Christ of Hamburg, colourful silk dresses by Dea Kudibal, or luxurious loungewear by Ina Kess. Whatever blows my own mind, I can sell. I have to acknowledge that I am my store’s USP. I am the one who makes a difference.
Sereina Vischer loves surprising her customers.
Constance Settelmayer keeps her customers in mind when ordering. Photo:
Is it fair to say that your customers have a new trust in you as a retailer?
Constance Settelmayer, owner of Jule Avantgarde: Yes, the appreciation has definitely increased. My customers feel perfectly at ease with me. They want to be advised and looked after. The city is becoming steadily less interesting, whereas the outskirts, featuring a well-rounded retail environment, are experiencing a renaissance. This is one of the reasons why I opened another store for lounge and nightwear right next door. The feedback is great, really validating.
Where does this new appreciation come from?
My customers appreciate that I know exactly what they need. When I order, I have them in mind and buy something special for them that is not too outrageous. No piece costs more than 500 Euros, yet quality remains important. I make sure to convey the intrinsic value of fashion by wrapping every piece I sell in tissue paper. I also start clearance sales, which never last more than a fortnight, later.
Are you more accurate than before?
Yes. I can tell by the fact that I have very little stock left at the end of the season. I know what sells well, not least because I know my customers so well. The effort is intense, but it pays off.
